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Mediterranean Coast & ﺷﺎﻃﻰء ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮ ﺍﻟﻤﺘﻮﺳﻂ the ﻭﺍﻟﺮﻳﻒ ﺍﻟﺒﺤﺮﻱ

Why Go? West Mediterranean Northern offers a beautiful coastline, a moun- Coast ...... 236 tainous hinterland rarely explored by visitors and just one ...... 236 major city. The beguiling gateway to Africa, Tangier has Ceuta (Sebta) ...... 253 emerged from its shady past to become a tantalising experi- The Rif Mountains ...... 260 ence. Eastward lies one of the last stretches of undeveloped Mediterranean coast with high cliffs and sandy coves. Tetouan ...... 260 Tetouan and Al-Hoceima reflect former Spanish pro- ...... 267 tectorate days in architecture and food. More still can be Ouezzane ...... 275 found in the Spanish enclaves of Ceuta and Melilla with Al-Hoceima ...... 278 their medieval fortifications and spectacular architectural Trekking in the Rif treasures. Ranging over the mountains inland are magnif- Mountains: Talassem- icent national parks, from the coastal Al-Hoceima to the tane National Park ...... 283 remote Beni-Snassen, that beg to be discovered. East Mediterranean Go soon: a highway along the coast nears completion, Coast ...... 287 and resorts are blooming in , M’Diq and Saïdia. Melilla ...... 287 Progress has been slowed by the recession, but these de- Nador ...... 293 velopments will change the coastline irrevocably. Saídia ...... 295 Berkane ...... 295 Beni-Snassen When to Go? Mountains ...... 296 Tangier °C/°F Te m p Rainfall inches/mm 40/104 8/200

Best Places to Eat 30/86 6/150

» Populaire Saveur de Pois- 20/68 4/100 son (p 246 ) 10/50 2/50 » Blanco Riad (p262 ) » Auberge Dardara (p272 ) 0/32 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM

Best Places to April July September Stay Spring is perfect Head to Chef- Mediterranean for trekking in the chaouen for beaches await, » Dar Nour (p 243 ) Rif or exploring the annual arts without the » Dar Ech-Chaouen (p 271 ) national parks. festival. crowds. » Gîte Tagma (p297 ) 235 Club ALGERIA Oujda Saïdia Ahfir Zegzel Gorge Moulouya Estuary at sh platter fi (p 281 ) in Al-Hoceima Mountains Beni-Snassen Islas (Spain) Chafarinas Enjoy a Enjoy Take in remarkable views as views in remarkable Take Berkane Nautique 7 8 you trek to Berber villages in the Berber villages to trek you National Park Talassemtane ) in the Rif Mountains 283 (p 00 50 km 30 miles Taforalt

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Ackoubaa i Ouezzane R Souk el-Arba- Tangier’s medina Tangier’s Strait of Gibraltar Tangier Browse the treasure- Browse Dream the day away at away the day Dream Nature Reserve Cap Jebel Bouhachem shops of of shops a pavement cafe beneath beneath cafe a pavement in Chefchaouen’s the kasbah Uta el-Hammam Plaza Mediterranean Coast & the Rif Highlights Mediterranean 1 2 S P A I N Spartel Grottes d'Hercule