The Washburn Yellowstone Expedition

Parts I and 2

from

THE OVERLAND MONTHLY

DEVOTED TO

THE DEVELOPMEHT OF THE COVNTRT

Vo!. 6 - May, Juno, 1871 - Nos. 5, 6.

Facsimile Reproauotion I9b4

THE SHOREY BOOK STORE 815 THIRD AVENUE SEATTLE. WASHINGTON 98104 The Washburn Yellowstone Expedition

Parts I and 2

from

THE OVERLAND MONTHLY

DEVOTED TO

THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE COUNTED

Vol. 6 - May, June, 187 1 - Nos. 5, 6.

Facsimile Reproauction 19ry+

THE SHOREY BOOK STORE 815 THIRD AVENUE SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 98104 THE OVERLAND MONTHLY

DEVOTED TO

TBS DEVELOPMENT OF THE COUNTRY

THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION.

NO. I. INCE the first settlement of Mon­ squad of soldiers, well mounted, and S tana, vague stories have been float­ armed with needle carbines and revolv­ ing about, in regard to the wonders of ers. We citizens carried an assorted the country surrounding Lake Yellow­ armory, consisting of Henry, Ballard, stone. Trappers and half-breeds have and Spencer rifles, revolvers, and bowie- dilated, in glowing terms, of impassable knives. We intended to hunt for all ca/louj, water-falls thousands of feet in sorts of large game, Indians only ex­ height, and "steamboat springs" of re­ cepted. No one desired to find any of markable magnitude. Heretofore, these them. reports have been generally believed to On Monday morning, August zzd, our be gross exaggerations. They, howev­ party bade adieu, for a time, to civiliza­ er, led to the formation of a party last tion ; and leaving Fort Ellis, turned our Summer, resolved upon as thorough an faces toward the almost unexplored wil­ examination of that section of country derness. The weather was fine; the air as their leisure time would admit. invigorating; all were cheerful, and each The expedition left Helena, Montana, face betrayed that curiosity and expec­ August 17th, 1R70. General Washburn, tation, which almost every one feels Surveyor-General of Montana, was elect­ when entering upon a new field of ad­ ed Captain. The remaining members venture. Our course lay to the east, of the expedition were: S. T. Hauser, over Bozeman Pass; which will neces­ President of the First National Bank sarily be the route of the Northern Pa­ of'Helena; N. P. Langford, late U. S. cific Railroad, if it goes anywhere in Collector of Internal Revenue; T. C. that vicinity. Everts, late U. S. Assessor; Messrs. Having passed over the divide, the Hedges, Gillette, Smith, Stickney, and party camped on Trail Creek, a small Trumbull, all of Helena ; two .packers, stream flowing into the Yellowstone. and two unbleached American citizens At this place a night-watch was estab­ of African descent. Each member of lished ; which was maintained through­ the party was mounted on horseback, out the entire trip, in order to keep the and there were twelve pack animals. Indians from breaking the Eighth Com­ By order of General Hancock, we mandment. were provided with an escort; and at The following day we reached the Fort Ellis we were joined by Lieutenant Yellowstone, and camped at Botteller's, Doane, of the Second Cavalry, with a which is the frontier ra/u/iq, as you as- 432 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. [MAY,

ccnd that river. During the day the background the lofty, snow-capped peaks party traveled in detachments. Three glistened midway between the earth and hunters kept several miles ahead; next, the cloudless firmament above. We were two skirmishers in front of the camped at the mouth of the canon, main body; and a half-mile farther back, where the Yellowstone issues from the came the main body itself, together with mountains. Above that point there is the pack-train. As the skirmishers no open country, until you reach the Beared the river they discovered three basin of the great lake. Crows; not sitting on a tree, but riding During the day plenty of small game in their direction. With keen military was killed, and the fishing was found to sagacity, they appreciated the position, be excellent. Trout and white-fish were and rallied on the main body with aston­ abundant — and such trout! They can ishing rapidity. This movement was only be found in the neighborhood of much commended by parties who had the Rocky Mountains, and on the Pa­ had experience in our "late unpleasant­ cific Slop/o. Few of them weighed less ness." than two pounds, and many of them Tor many miles, both up and down over three. They had not been edu­ the river, on the side opposite Oottel- cated up to the fly; but when their at­ ler's, the mountains rise somewhat ab­ tention was respectfully solicited to a ruptly, bold and rugged, to a height of transfixed grasshopper, they seldom fail­ three or four thousand feet above the ed to respond. river. Clumps of pines and cedars are During the pleasant evening, and the scattered over them. They remind one long summer twilight peculiar to a north­ very much of the grandeur and massive- ern latitude, some made rough sketches ness of the Sierra Nevada Range. A of the magnificent scenes by which we recent snow-storm had thrown a robe were surrounded; others wrote up their of purity over the scene, which rendered notes of the trip, while the rest serenely it more than ordinarily beautiful. smoked their pipes, and listened to rem­ From tlris point we followed tire old iniscences from each other of by-gone Indian trail, leading up the left bank of times, or other scenes somewhat similar the Yellowstone. It was generally from to those we then enjoyed. a fourth to a half- mile distant from the The clay following wre continued our river-bank, and near the first line of way through the canon, up the river, bluffs, which bound the valley or river which there wound around to the east. bottom. During the day we crossed The trail kept near the river, was very three small streams, designated as Two- rough, and went over several high, rocky mile Creek and Eight-mile Crock—Nos. points. Distant views were shut out by One and Two — being about those dis­ the mountains, which constantly sur­ tances from Bottetlers. At one place rounded us. The only features of unu­ the trail crossed a rocky point, more sual interest seen during the day were a than three hundred feet above the riv­ beautiful, snow-capped mountain, at least er, which there ran beside a precipice. ten thousand feet above the sea, and the The view was exceedingly fine. The Devil's Slide, similar to a feature so valley was in sight from the mouth of named in Flcho Canon, on the Union the canon, eight miles above, to a point Pacific Railroad, but vastly exceeding at least forty miles below. The course that one in sire. Two perpendicular of the river could be plainly discerned walls of mud and rock run directly down by an unbroken line of willows, stretch­ a mountain. They are about half a mile ing away to the north-east, while in the long, and the larger one a hundred feet 1871.] THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. 438 high, and thirty feet across the top. ains. After going sixteen miles, up hill Similar formations extend along the side and down, through gulches and woods, of the mountain for some distance, but we camped on Warm Spring Creek, the rest are much smaller than the two about a half-mile from its mouthy and at mentioned. From a distance, the mount­ an elevation of 7,200 feet. Here we ain appears to be traversed by a number found our two lost friends, who had pre­ of stone-walls running parallel to each ceded us. The Yellowstone was sev­ other, from the summit to the base of eral hundred feet beneath us ; and but a the mountain, which is shaped iike a short distance below our camp, one of long hay-stack. The walls arc as regu­ the gentlemen had discovered some very lar as if they were a work of art. picturesque falls, on Warm Spring Creek. In the evening we camped on the At the foot of this creek we found a few Yellowstone, at the mouth of Gardiner's warm springs, which probably caused River. The beach was of sand, with early prospectors to so name the stream. large rocks lying right at the water's The springs were small, and principally edge. It was wide enough for us to alum and sulphur, but they were inter­ spread our blankets upon it, and was esting to us, as they were a new feature lined upon the inside by a row of cedar- of the trip. trees, beyond which the bluff, covered On the Yellowstone, opposite the mouth with sage-brush, rose a hundred feet. of the creek, huge, basaltic cliffs and col­ The next day we forded Gardiner's umns rose to a height of six hundred River at its mouth, followed up the Yel­ feet, looking like castles and massive lowstone about two miles, and then, fortifications. A short distance below finding the caflon impassable, took a our camp there was a fall in the creek trail leading up the gulch to the right. of TIC feet. For a k\\ hundred yards In crossing (ho mountains, we attained above the fall the stream had worn its the highest elevation we had, yet reach­ way through a sandstone bluff, cutting ed. During the day an antelope was quite a deep canon. Immediately about killed by one of the party. In the. even­ the head of the falls the rocks were worn ing we camped on a clear mountain into curious and fantastic shapes, look­ stream, not more than ten miles from ing, in daylight, like spires or steeples, our previous camp. The grass was rising from thirty to sixty feet above the abundant, and the location excellent. falls; but, in the moonlight, reminding Two of the party, who went ahead, one r.f the portal of an old castle, or a missed the camp, and were out over­ number of the fabled genii standing night, although every endeavor was made ready to hurl adventurous mortals into to find them. They, however, got along the gorge below, which was enveloped well, by building a shelter of pine boughs, Joy the shadows of the night in impene­ in (roni of which they made a large fire. trable darkness. By the brook-side we found a number It was proposed to name these falls in of prospect-holes, and some blared trees, honor of the discoverer, but it was de­ showing that enterprising miners had cided to be in bad taste to name prom­ preceded us. A gentleman got a pan inent objects after members of the ex­ of dirt from one of the holes, and suc­ pedition ; besides, one of the party took ceeded in panning out two nuggets, evi­ an unaccountable interest in bestowing dently from different gulches, their com­ upon them the name of Tower Falls, bined value being about S8. which was finally adopted. 11 is pecul­ The next day we traveled about six iar interest was afterward satisfactorily hours, nearly due east, over the mount­ explained, as we learned he had a sweet- 434 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION [MAY, heart by that name, somewhere.in the intensely hot. As near as I now recol­ States. Another of the oarty was in fa­ lect, the basin of this spring was about vor of the name of Minaret (Minnie thirty feet in diameter. There was very Rhett); but that was too apparent, and little water flowing away from it, and he was outvoted. very little deposit from its overflowings The following day the party struck was visible- It. had no such mound as across the country to the south, cutting many that we saw subsequently, nor was off a large bend in the river, and then its margin of such solid material. The passed to the right of a high mountain, easternmost and uppermost spring was which some of the party ascended. It not as large in its crater as its near was found to be the highest peak in that neighbors, but was more infernal to look section, a barometrical observation show­ at, and suggested the name that we at­ ing it to be 10,700 feet high. In honor tached to the springs The sub­ of General Washburn, whom wc had stance was not as thick as mud, but elected Captain of the expedition, we rather beyond the consistency of soup^ named it "Mount Washburn." and was in constant, noisy ebullition, About four o'clock we camped by a emitting fumes of villainous smell. The small, clear, cold brook, flowing through margin was not safe for close approach^ a grassy upland opening, and, just below but I ventured near enough to thrust a us, entering a thick, gloomy forest, which pine sapling into the substance of this continued to the Yellowstone, about three infernal kettle, and on pulling it out miles distant. In exploring the creek found it covered about one-fourth of an toward the river, when about a mile from inch thick with a lead-colored, sulphury camp, we came suddenly to a small open­ slime. Nothing flows away in liquid ing on a steep hill-side, where we found form from this spring. It seems to be a number of hot springs. There were boiling down, and will doubtless become four quite prominent, besides a number thick as pudding, like so many that we of smaller ones. I can not describe afterward saw. ... So secluded is this them better than by quoting from a de­ cluster of springs, that it would be im­ scription given by Mr. Hedges to a local possible to suppose it to have ever been paper. He spent some time in giving seen before by any White Man; and it them a thorough examination: appeared to us the merest chance that " The westernmost spring had an oval- directed our steps hither. How many shaped basin, twenty by forty feet in similar basins arc hidden away among diameter. I ts greenish-yellow water was the vast forests that cover this region hot, and bubbles of steam or gas were we can best conceive, who have seen constantly rising from various parts of scores of them without turning much its .surface. This spring, with two oth­ from our direct course." ers, was situated in about an east and "We reached the falls of the Yellow­ west line, and at the upper side of the stone on the morning of August 30th, basin, which, opened south, toward the These falls, two in number, are less creek. The central one of these three than half a mile apart. From the lake was the largest of all, and was in con­ to the upper falls, a distance of about stant, violent agitation, like a seething twenty miles, the river flows, with the caldron over a fiery furnace. The water exception of a short series of rapids was often thrown higher than our heads, having a moderate current, through an and fearful volumes of stifling, sulphu­ open, undulating, country, gently sloping reous vapors were constantly escaping. toward the stream. Here and there are The water was of a dark-lead color, and small groves, and the timber is quite i87i.] THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. 435 thick a mile away from the river. A infinitely grander. Having passed over quarter of a mile above the upper falls the precipice, the clear, unbroken, green­ the river breaks into rapids, and foams ish mass is in an instant transformed by in eddies about huge, granite bowlders, the jagged edges of the precipice into some of which have trees and shrubs many streams, apparently separated, yet growing upon them. Above the rapids still united, and having the appearance the river is about 150 yards wide, but, of molten silver. These streams, or jets, as it approaches the falls, high, rocky arc shaped like a comet, with nucleus bluffs crowd in on both sides, forcing and trailing coma, following in quick the water into a narrow gorge, which, at succession; or they look like foaming, the brink of the falls, is about thirty crested tongues, constantly overlapping yards wide. The most convenient and each other. The outer jets decrease in desirable place from which to view the size as they descend, curl outward, and falls is from a ledge, easily reached, break into mist. In the sunlight, a rain­ which juts into the river a considerable bow constantly spans the chasm. The distance, just below the falls, and a few foot of the falls is enveloped in mist, feet lower than their brink. It is so which conceals the river for more than close that occasional drops dampen one's A hundred yards below. face. The height of the upper falls is These falls are exactly the same in 115 feet. The ledge is irregular, the height as the Vernal Falls in the Yo- water being much deeper on the west semite Valley, but the volume of water side than on the east. Great rocks pro­ is at least five times as great. I think ject in the face of the fall, tearing and I never saw a water-tall more beautiful churning the waters into foam, with here than the Vernal, and its surroundings and there a little strip of green, which are sublime. Its Indian name is said to contrasts beautifully with the surround­ mean " Crown of Diamonds ;" and it cer­ ing silvery whiteness of the water. tainly deserves the name. I remember Between the two falls the river flows sitting on the rocky ledge just at the quietly, in a wide channel, between steep, edge of the falls, and with an opera- timbered bluffs, four hundred feet high. glass watching the waters as they plun­ Just above the lower falls the blulfs again ged downward, breaking into myriads of converge ; the one from the west stretch­ drops; each drop, like a lens, gathering ing out as if to dam up the river, which prismatic tints from the shining sun, and has, however, forced its way through a flashing like diamonds of the purest brill­ break, forty yards wide. The rocky iancy. The lower fall of the Yellow­ cliffs rise perpendicularly from the brink stone reminds me of the Vernal Fall, on of the falls, to a height of several hun­ the Merced. Though nothing, perhaps, dred feet. The rocky formation is of a can equal the sublime scenery of the shelly character, and slightly colored Yoscmite, yet that only excels the lower with flowers of sulphur. The plunge of falls of the Yellowstone, and the grand the water is in the direct course of the canon which extends for many miles be­ stream, and at the brink of the falls it low them. appears to be of uniform depth. It Below the falls the hills gradually in­ clears its bed at a bound, and takes a crease in height, while the river descends fearful leap of 350 feet. The volume of in a succession of rapids through the water is about half as great as that canon. At the falls the canon is not which passes over the American Fall, more than twelve hundred feet deep, but at Niagara, and it falls more than twice a few miles lower down it is nearly eight­ the distance. The adjacent scenery is een hundred feet deep. Its average 43<5 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. [MAY,

Width at ihe top is aboni ft ilurd of ft aiso pulled like a steamboat, tnrowing mile. The east wall is nearly vertical off vast quantities of steam, and much for its entire height, and presents an al­ resembled the Steamboat Geyser, in So­ most unbroken face. The west wall is noma County-, California. Its rim was much cut by re-entering angles, or steep, incmsted with sulphur, some specimens lateral ravines, leaving between them being quite pure. rocky, projecting points, or cliffs, from - Within ft space of half a mile square, which can be obtained a magnificent at least seventy-five different springs view of the falls and canon. These cliffs and steam-jets occur. The mounds, or have peqrendicular faces, varying from hills, at the bases of which are these four to eight hundred feet in height, be­ springs, are nearly three hundred feet low which the canon, composed mostly high. They are covered with small holes of the debris which have fallen from and fissures, from which issue hot air above, slopes steeply to the water's edge. and steam. No vegetation of conse­ The immense depth of this gorge al­ quence grows on them, but a few clumps most overcomes the roar cf the falls, and of trees are scattered between the springs a short distance from the edge of the at their base. Many of the craters con­ canon the sound of the waters is un­ tain a grayish, pasty-looking substance, heard. The general color of the canon about the consistency- of mush nearly is yellow, owing to the sulphureous fumes cooked. Other springs have waters of which rise from many steam-jets near blue, pink, yellow, and brown tinges. the bottom; but in places the rock is of One small, bubbling spring, of clear wa­ ft reddish hue, while in others it is daz- ter, has an intensely sour, acrid taste. zlingly white. Days would be required It is said that Indians do not go above to examine thoroughly and fully appre­ the grand canon on the Yellowstone. ciate the vicinity of the falls, which, in Whether this is true I know not, but I many respects, are the most remarkable imagine that the unscientific savage finds in America. little to interest him in such places. I Leaving the falls the first morning in should rather suppose he would give autumn, we took the trail through the them a wide berth, believing them sa­ timber, in a south-west direction. Wc cred to Satan. If a person should be soon found ourselves in ftn open, rolling cast into one of these springs, he would country, gradually sloping down to the be literally immersed in a lake of burn­ river. About six miles from the falls, ing brimstone. and a half-mile back from the river, we There being no good grass near Cra­ came to tbrec white hills, of a volcanic ter Hills, after stopping a few hours to nature, thrown up entirely by deposits examine them we moved to a point on from hot and boiling mineral springs, the Yellowstone, about tbrec miles above. which were between and around them. Near this camp were several mineral The largest was forty feet by sixty. It springs, all hot, and many of them boil­ was perfectly quiet, and looked like any ing. Most of them were ordinary, bub­ other deep, muddy pond; its peculiarity bling, spluttering mud-springs, but three being that, although it was easy for any­ of them were quite remarkable. Of these one to handle it, he who attempted any the first, or lowest down the river, is a such familiarity was sure to get scalded. cave-spring, with an opening of ten feet The spring which attracted most atten­ in width by six in height, in solid rock, tion was about seven feet by ten, and with an almost perfect, oval arch. The threw whitish, hot water from eight to water is clear as crystal, of boiling heat, ten feet above the rim of its basin. It and a vitriolic taste. As you look into l87i.] 437

4144. v..n,.., i4 1I44.4 41I4. ntrpcniniiCC ,'i 4411 C.^J j ..-.-.J- :„ jr-,..-4,_ —- ..i-.,—11 iiuuuieu nful HI luauieid| »i.w moviicii opening to a subterranean lake. A small, bespattered. hot stream flows from it. The water is BctweeiTf the last-mentioned spring continually washing its ten or twelve and the river is a boiling spring, a placid feet of shore, like an agitated lake. The pond, a deep, dry funnel, or an active bright pebbles in the bottom, the clean geyser, according to the time of one's sand, and the smooth, white, flat stones visit. In the course of a day we saw it left in regular ripples on its margin, to­ in all its protean shapes. When in its gether with the green, mossy sides of the funnel form, one would not dream that, cave, and the musical monotones of the from the small opening in the bottom, rippling waters, almost lead one to think twenty or thirty feet, below, would come it the entrance to an enchanted land. a power capable of filling with water the A hundred yards above this spring, funnel, which at the top is thirty feet by upon the side of a hill, was another, en­ forty, and then so agitating it that the tirely different in character. It was real­ water would be splashed to a height of ly a small volcano, throwing mud instead from thirty to fifty feet If one saw it of lava. Intermittent thumps, like the when the waters were troubled, he would discharge of artillery, could he heard, at be scarcely less astonished to hear it intervals of from fifteen to thirty sec­ give one convulsive throb, and then see onds, for the distance of a mile. At it quietly settle down in a single instant every pulsation, thick, white clouds of to the smooth surface of a placid pool. steam came rolling out, and mud was When the waters retired we went into thrown from the crater, gradually en­ the funnel, and found it rough, efflores­ larging the mound which surrounded it. cent, and composed of rock and hard­ While we were watching this spring the ened sulphur. mud was on!)' thrown over the rim of Though very different ir. character the crater, but from the clay clinging to from the geysers afterward seen on the the branches of surrounding trees, espe­ head-waters of the Madison River, and . cially on the upper side of the spring, far less grand, this one was very pecul­ it was evidently thrown, at times, to a iar, and we saw nothing resembling it height of two hundred feet. A circle, a during the rest of the trip. THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION.

NO. II.

FTER remaining one day in the river we were continually meeting with A vicinity of the first geyser, we mud-springs, some of them of consider­ forded the Yellowstone just above our able magnitude. At one -point in the camp, and shaped our course for the river we discovered a short scries of lake. At the ford the river was quite rapids, between high, rocky banks; the wide, and a narrow bench of rock rose one on the east side rising to the propor­ up from the bottom, stretching from tion of a bluff. After fording a stream, bank to bank. On this bench the water about one-third the size of the Yellow­ was about three feet deep, but on either stone, emptying into the lake, we camp­ side of it was a foot or two deeper. In ed on the edge of the timber, about a fording the stream, each man led a pack hundred yards from the lake-shore. animal. Al! did very well while they Lake Yellowstone is a lonely, but kept upon the bench. Occasionally lovely inland sea, everywhere surround­ some one would get into deeper water, ed by "forests primeval," and nestled and become drenched, but he had the in the bosom of the Rocky Mountains. benefit of encouraging cheers from those Some trappers have insisted that its wa­ who had crossed in safety, and who stood ters ran both to the Atlantic and the ready to welcome him upon the antici­ Pacific, but such is not the case. The pated shore. summit of the main chain, however, ap­ From the ford to the lake—a distance proaches within half a mile of its south of about ten miles—our course was gen­ shore, and in places the divide is very erally through timber, much of which little above the lake. Its shape resem­ had.been blown down by strong winds, bles the broad hand of an honest Ger­ rendering traveling exceedingly tedious man, who has had his forefinger and the and difficult In open places near the two adjoining shot off at the second

Entered according to Act of Congrats, in the year ,370, by JOHN H. CAMMAMY, ir the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. VOL. VI —33. 490 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. [JUNE, joint, while fighting for glory and Em­ and continue the ascent on foot. The peror .William. The palm of the hand altitude of the mountain, as obtained by represents the main body, or north part,- observations with the barometer and of the lake. The fingers and thumb, thermometer, was 11,163 wet. Much spread to their utmost extent — the snow was found before reaching the thumb and little finger being much the summit. A fine view of the surround­ longest — represent inlets indenting the. ing country, and a good idea of the shape south shore, and stretching inland, as of the lake, were obtained, immense if to wash away the Rocky Mountains. steam -jets were seen to the south; but Between these inlets project high, rocky as our time was becoming somewhat promontories, covered with dense lim­ limited, we did not-remain to visit them. ber. The largest stream flows into the Several barometrical calculations were lake at its upper end, or the extreme made; and we determined die height south-east corner. This stream is real­ of tlic lake to be 8,300 feet. ly the Yellowstone River, which, for a On the south side of the lake we found distance of thirty miles, lias an average dense timber, much of which was fallen. width of over fifteen miles. This en­ Through it were no trails, and traveling largement constitutes the lake, which, was exceedingly difficult. Many large after being augmented by several small­ trees had fallen, with their branches clear er streams, narrows down to the width out into the lake, rendering it very hard of an eighth of a mile, and flows north­ to foliow the lake-shore. We, however, ward toward the great falls. kept the shore as much as possible, ex­ The mood of the lake is ever chan­ cept when we cut across the bases of tlic ging; the character of its shore is ever promontories; though on one occasion varying. At one moment, it is placid we crossed a low divide in the main and glassy as a calm summer's sea; at chain, and camped on the head - waters the nex-t, "it breaks into dimples, and of Snake River, without finding it out laughs if) the sun." Half an hour later, for a day or two afterward. We thought beneath a stormy sky, its waters maybe the brook on which we were camped broken and lashed into an angry and circled around, and ran into the lake. dangerous sea. like the short, choppy While straggling irregularly through waves which rise in storms on Lake the dense timber which covers the main Eric and Lake Michigan. Where we chain, one of the parly, Mr. Everts, be­ first saw it, it had a glittering beach of came separated from the rest of us; but gray and rock-crystal sand, but as we his disappearance was unnoticed until continued around it, we found rocky and we reached a small strip of open coun­ muddy shores, gravel benches -on which try on the head-waters of Snake River. several varieties of chalcedony were pro­ Leaving the party for a short time, cither fusely scattered — and hot springs in in pursuit of game or for the purpose of abundance. Near the south-east end viewing the country, was not an unusual of the lake is the highest peak'in the occurrence with members of the expedi­ vicinity. It is steep and barren, and tion ; and consequently little was thought from the lake-shore appears to taper to of Mr. Everts' absence. We, however, a point. On the south side is a preci­ at once camped, and waited for him to pice, nearly a .thousand feet high. Two catch up, of the party ascended it. It took them • One of the pack animals was missing; all of one day to make the trip and re­ and the two packers, together with one turn. About two-thirds of the way up of the parly, went back on the trail to • they were obliged to leave their horses, find him, hoping also to meet Mr. Ev- I8?I.] THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. 49'

erts, and to save him all trouble by guid­ quite near-sighted. Every endeavor was ing htna into camp. The lost pack-horse made to attract bis attention, by firing was an extraordinary animal — a beauti­ guns and building fires on prominent ful, golden stallion of vast proportions, points near the camp. Failing to find some thought as much as thirteen bands him, we changed our camp to the lake- high. Some people would have called shore, and remained for more than a him of buckskin color, but he was of week in the immediate vicinity, search­ that intensely brilliant hue wiiich buck­ ing vigilantly for him. We expected to skin assumes when wet and in the shade. find him somewhere on the south-west He was one of the animals which, in shore of the lake, as at the time he was fording the Yellowstone, managed to lost it was generally understood \vc flounder into deep water and saturate would that evening camp on the south­ his pack; and whenever we waded western arm of the lake. through a slough, he was sure to be the On the afternoon of September 13th, horse that got stalled. In such cases when Mr. Everts had been missing four lie invariably waited until the packers, days, there were slight indications of with their patience severely tried, went snow, which indications continued for back and lifted him out by main force. two days, by which time it was two feet On this particular occasion, he had prov­ deep. The weather was not very cold, en himself the acrobat of the pack-train and by means of the tent we got along by turning a number of somersaults quite comfortably; but we feared that backward,, down die hill, pack and ail; the storm would prove fatal to our poor, and when found, was astride a log length­ lost friend. Conjectures as to his prob­ wise, his feet just touching on either side, able file were numberless, but futile. but either unable to extricate himself, or Our chief hope lay in the fact of his be­ too proud and patient to make an effort ing well mounted, and the hope that, to do so. He consequently very resign­ failing to find us on the second day, he edly contemplated bis position and sur­ had started for the settlements ; in which roundings. He was too proud and spir­ case he might possibly be beyond the ited to betray any emotion, though bis region of the snow-storm. When lost situation was undoubtedly distasteful to he was without provisions, but bad with bis feelings. In war, lie might have been him a needle-gun. We continued our a lion ; in peace, lie was certainly a lamb. efforts until nearly out of 'provisions; He was just the kind of a horse that, in and then, leaving three persons to still a rare, would have driven every thing look for him, the rest of us turned to­ else before him. The pedigree of the ward the settlements. beast has not been authentically preserv- Immediately on our arrival, two old *cd, but there is good reason to believe mountaineers were furnished with six that his dam was Rosinantc, while be weeks' provisions, and offered a large was sired by Baalbec, the horse Mark reward if they succeeded in finding him, Twain rode through the Holy Land. or should bring back his body. They He was dubbed the "Yellowstone Won­ found bint, quite exhausted, and nearly der." famished, about sixty miles from Boze- Toward evening Mr. Everts' disap­ man. He was trying to follow back on pearance excited grave apprehensions. the route by which we ascended the Yel­ It would have been extremely difficult lowstone. It seems that bis horse got for any one to have followed our trail away from him the day after be left us. through the dense forests and over the His gun was made fast to the saddle, fallen timber. Besides, Mr. Everts was and Ids revolver was in his eanlinas; so 492 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. [JUNE, that be bad no means of providing him­ man vision appeared bottomless. A gen­ self with food. During the snow-storm tleman was fishing from one of the nar­ he got along by building a shelter of pine row isthmuses, or shelves of rock, which boughs over a warm spring. For forty divided one of these hot springs from the clays he !ive3 on roots, and-two min­ lake, when, in swinging a trout ashore, nows, which he caught in his hat. He it accidentally got off the hook and fell tried to eat grasshoppers, but be found into the spring. For a moment it dart­ their jumping propensities were not con­ ed about with wonderful rapidity, as if fined to a living state; for he bad no seeking an outlet. Then it came to the sooner swallowed one than it cleared his top, dead, and literally boiled. It died throat with a bound. It was weeks after within a minute of the time it fell into his rescue before he fully recovered his (he spring. strength. His escape from a terrible On the 17th of September, the party death was almost marvelous. left Lake Yellowstone for home, by way Our last camp on the lake was near of the Madison River. Our immediate the extremity of the I••• til - west arm. objective point was a small lake, in which Close by us was a collection of warm .the Fire Hole River, the main branch springs — the largest, most numerous, of the Madison, has its source. This varied, and peculiar which we had then was supposed to be about twelve miles discovered. Several were from fifty to west of us. In crossing the divide we eighty feet in length, by from twenty to found that the snow-storm had been gen­ fifty in width. Tlie water was generally era! ; about two feet of snow still re­ clear, and of great depth. All were hot, maining. We failed to find the lake, but but of different temperatures. Around finally camped in the snow, on a small the larger ones the ground was marshy, stream running to the south, probably and largely composed of a reddish earth, into the lake. The mountains were ev­ which looked like wet brick-dust. A erywhere thickly timbered. Nearly all number of hot streams flowed from these the trees had great lumps, like hornets'- springs into the lake. The lake-shore nests, upon tlicir trunks. They were was covered with a subsilica, broken generally large, but scraggy and irregu­ into small pieces, and washed smooth lar, and wholly unlike the tall, straight by the action of the waves. Many of pines of the Sierras. It is said that these pieces were pure and white as ala­ nothing was created in vain ; but it was baster. Many'of the smaller springs a long time before I could conceive the were mud-springs, boiling and splutter­ utility of a forest so vast in a locality so ing incessantly. These were generally remote and inaccessible. It was sug­ a few feet below the surface, and encased gested to me by a comrade that the trees in clay banks. They emitted a strong, protected the snow, preventing it from all sulphurous smell, which rendered a close melting at once during the first warm examination rather disagreeable. Sev­ days of spring, and thereby producing a eral springs were in the solid rock, with­ freshet destructive of every thing in its in a few feet of the lake-shore. Some wake. I can think of no other reason of them extended far out underneath the for their creation. lake; with which, however, they had no The following day we traveled north­ connection. Tlie lake water was quite west, and soon reached the Fire Hole cold, and that of these springs exceed­ River. After passing by a fine cascade ingly hot. They were remarkably clear, — which we stopped but a short time to and the eye could penetrate a hundred examine—weTorded tlie river, and camp­ feet into their depths, which to the hu­ ed about noon in the midst of tlie most \r\1 iS7i.] THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. TV J wonderful geysers yet discovered in any around, the ground, flooded with subsil­ country. The basin in which they were ica, of glittering whiteness, sloped grad­ situated was over two miles long, and ually up to the cone, which itself rose about a mile wide. It was nearly desti­ thirty feet, nearly perpendicular. It was tute of vegetation, but there were a few quite rugged and efflorescent, and on its clumps of trees scattered through it, and outer sides had a number of benches, suf­ in one place we found grass enough for ficiently wide for a man to stand upon. our horses. The basin was chiefly on These enabled us to climb up and look the west side of the river, but there was into its crater, which was irregular in a narrow strip, with an average width of shape, and about seven feet, the longest three hundred yards, on the cast side, way, by five feet, the shortest. The out­ which was literally alive with geysers side of the mound was nearly round, and and steam-jets. We remained two days not less than thirty feet through at its in (his wonderful basin. The most prom­ base. We called it "The Castle," on inent geysers which we saw in operation account of its size and commanding ap­ we named as follows: "Old Faithful," pearance. It was in action a short time which was farthest up the river on the on the morning after our arrival, but only western bank; " The Castle," which was threw water about thirty feet high. The a third of a mile below "Old Faithful;" water did not retain the shape of a column, "The Giant," which was a half-mile like that thrown out by "Old Faithful," below "The Castle;" "The Grotto," but rather splashed up and slopped over. a short distance below "The Giant;" This geyser did not appear to be doing then crossing the river, lowest down was its best, but only spouted a little in a the " Fantail," and much higher up, near­ patronizing way, thinking to surprise us ly opposite "Old Faithful," were "The novices -sufficiently without any undue Giantess" and "Beehive." exertion on its part All around the geysers the ground was The mound around "The Giant" was covered with incrustations and subsilica; about twelve feet high, and had a piece and immediately about the vent of most knocked out of one side of it, so that we of fbem the incrustations rose several could look into the crater, which was feet above the surrounding level, assum­ shaped like a hollow cylinder, and six ing grotesque and fanciful shapes. feet in diameter. "The Giant" dis­ "Old Faithful" was the first geyser charged a column of water, of the same TO saw throwing up a column of water. size as its crater, to a height of a hun­ It was named on account of its almost dred feet. It played as if through an constant action. It did not intermit for immense hose. We thought it deserved more than an hour at any time during to be called "The' Giant," as it threw our stay. It had a vent five feet by out more water than any other geyser three, and projected a solid column of which we saw in operation. Its cone was water to a height of eighty or ninety feet. also large, and the water was very hot; All around it were found pebbles and as, in fact, was the case with the water of small stones, which, when broken open, all the geysers. The day of our arrival, proved to be simply pieces of wood, it was in nearly constant action for about thoroughly incrusted, and perfectly hard three hours, after which we did not see it and smooth on the outside, having the again discharge. appearance of an ordinary stone. "The Grotto" has two craters, con­ About the crater of "The Castle" was nected on the surface by the incrusta­ the largest cone, or mass of incrusta­ tions which surround them. We did tions, in the basin. For a hundred yards not ascertain whether there was any 494 THE WASHBURN YELLOWSTONE EXPEDITION. [JUNE, subterranean connection between them. bottomless stem, through which the We did not observe both craters dis­ steam came bubbling, just like the effer­ charge at the same time, but one began vescence of champagne from the bottom when the other ceased. Neither was in of a long, hollow-necked glass. The action for more than an hour. A solid mouth of the vase, represented by the stream was thrown up more than sixty surface, was twenty feet by thirty; and feet; that from the larger crater being the neck, fifty feet below, was fifteen about five feet in diameter, and that feet by ten. The water, at times, re­ from the smaller one not more than tired to the level of the neck, or vent, three feet The larger mound of incrus­ and at other times rose nearly to the tations was about ten feet high, and surface. When in action, "The Giant­ twenty feet through at the base. There ess" became a fountain with five jets, were several holes in it large enough for shooting the spray to a height of two a man to crawl through, which some of hundred feet. At the surface the largest the party did, when the geyser was not jet was about two feet in diameter, and in action. The smaller mound was not it kept in solid column for more than a more than five feet high, and shaped hundred and fifty feet before breaking like a hay-cock, with a portion of the intff drops and spray. It burst forth top knocked off. The two mounds were just before sunset, and the last rays of about twenty feet apart, and connected light gave prismatic tints to the glisten­ by a ridge, or neck of incrustations, two ing drops, when, having reached their feet high. "The Grotto" was about a utmost altitude, they trembled at their hundred yards from the river. A quar­ coming fall. The clouds of steam, which ter of a mile farther back, and just at the in this, as in all other instances, accom­ edge of the timber, we* found a mound panied the lxnling water, became a gold­ in the true shape of a cone. At the ver­ en fleece lit up by wreaths of rainbows. tex was a small opening, not more than Though inferior to "The Giant" in im­ a foot in diameter. This geyser did not mensity of volume, and perhaps in grand­ appear to have discharged for some time. eur, " The Giantess " was by far the most The ground was quite dry all around, beautiful sight we saw in the geyser ba­ and a number of incrusted pine twigs, sin. leaves, and cones were found, which re­ "The Beehive" — named from the tained their shape perfectly, but were shape of its mound—was quite small, hard, smooth, and white as alabaster. but threw its water higher than any other At that point, much ballast was obtained geyser which we saw. The stream was for the pack animals. less than two feet in diameter, and as­ Crossing the river, we named the cended two hundred and twenty feet, "Fantail" geyser from the fact that it from accurate measurement by triangu- discharged two streams from its vent lation. It remained in action only a few which spread out very much like a fan. moments. One of the most remarkable geysers We saw many other geysers in action, was " The Giantess." For yards around but those I have particularly described the ground rose gradually to its crater, were the most notable. They were all but immediately about it was no forma­ intermittent, few of them continuing in tion rising above the surface, as was the action more than half an hour at a time. case with all the other geysers which There were also many mounds from we saw in active operation. When quiet, which the water was evidently discharged it was a clear, beautiful pool, caught in at times, but they were quiet during our a subsilica urn, or vase, with a hollow, stay. We were probably very fortunate 1871.] THE WASHBURN YELLOV/STONE EXPEDITION. 495

in the time of our visit, for those we hundred to a thousand feet high. It is left behind to search for Mr. Everts cut on both sides by small, lateral ra­ came by these geysers severaf days lat­ vines, which arc filled with evergreens; er, and saw but two in operation: "The and on both sides of the river is a nar­ Fantail," and a smaller one near it. row bottom, also covered with trees and They were, however, short of provisions, verdure. The canon on the Yellow­ and remained in the vicinity of the gey­ stone is grand and gloomy. This one sers but a few hours. is beautiful and cheerful. The first was Steam-jets and clear, deep pools oc­ seen from above, the last from below. curred in great numbers, all over the The former inspires one with awe, the geyser basin. The latter were very latter with delight. beautiful. Four or five miles below the The Madison Cafion may be less geyser basin, on the west side of the grand, but scarcely less beautiful. Its Fire Hole, were four hot lakes. They walls are not so high, and generally not were similar to the clear, pale-violet quite so precipitous. It is filled with pools which we saw above, and at the line timber, affords splendid and pictur­ point where we left the lake, but were esque camping-places, and is watered very much larger. Three of the party not only by the Madison River, but by paced around the largest one, making pleasant, clear, rippling brooks, which the circumference four hundred and fifty flow through ravines entering the sides paces. It looked very deep. The sides, of the canon. of the whitest subsilica, converged at an On the 22d of September, just one angle of about forty-five degrees. It month after leaving Fort Ellis, the party was full to the brim, and a track, about reached Farley's, the frontier rancho twenty feet wide all around it, was cov­ on the Madison River. It was a little ered with two inches of water, which strange to feel that we were again with­ was so hot that it almost scalded our in the pale of civilization. During our feet, through heavy boots. Before our month's absence, we had seen so much pacers got all the way round, they step­ that was new and strange that it seemed ped not only very high, but in quite a more like a yeari Every one felt funny; lively, animated style. Beyond the track and we looked at each other and laugh­ of water which circled the lake, the ed in a silly way, as one small boy does, ground, covered with subsilica, sloped when, on entering church or any other away gradually on all sides. Immense place where he ought to keep quiet, he volumes of steam rose from all these catches the eye of another small-boy ac­ lakes, and first attracted our attention to quaintance. There was a pleasure in them. So much hot water flowed from getting home; and all felt curious to them that the Fire Hole was tempered hear the news. Papers, old and new, for several miles below. We found no were alike seized, and devoured with fish anywhere in the Fire Hole, though wonderful avidity. One gentleman even after its junction with the Madison they got hold of a Norwegian paper, but it •were quite plentiful. was too much for his brain. Leaving the hot lakes, we continued As an agricultural country, I was not homeward. On the way we passed favorably impressed with the great Yel­ through two beautiful cations; one on lowstone basin, but its brimstone re­ the Fire Hole, and one on the Madison. sources are ample for all the match­ The canon on the Fire Hole is grand makers of the world. A snow-storm in and beautiful. Its sides are granite, September, two feet deep, is hardly con­ nearly perpendicular, and from eight ducive to any kind of agricultural enter- 496 [JUNE, prise or stock-raising; still, I think arc rend-.ed easy of access, probably sheep would do well in that country, if no portion of America will be more pop­ some shelter were erected for them in ular as a watering-piacc or summer re­ winter. When, however, by means of sort than that which we had the pleas­ the Northern Pacific Railroad, the falls ure of viewing, in all the glory and of the Yellowstone and the geyser basin grandeur of its primeval solitude.