DECANTEREXPERT’S CHOICE Friuli-Venezia Giulia’s native whites The region’s lesser-known white varieties Friulano, Istriana, Ribolla Gialla and Vitovska are gaining recognition. Michael Garner profiles each one, and picks 18 of his top-scoring

ack in the 1970s, Friuli-Venezia Giulia on texture, aroma and flavour, Ribolla Gialla is was hailed as ‘the promised land’ for much lighter-bodied, with higher than average BItaly’s burgeoning fine white acidity. Best drunk young, a typical version scene. Winemakers such as Silvio Jermann and shows notes of white pepper, turmeric root and Mario Schiopetto, having embraced modern spring flowers with hints of Asian pear and philosophy and new technology, fragrant lemon. Such delicacy requires careful became legends. Such privileged status continues wood treatment, if any. today, at least at national level; for now, the area’s Lean, lithe and full of vigour, Vitovska is wines remain less well known further afield. made in tiny quantities only in the Carso area About 75% of production here is white, but is nonetheless worth seeking out. A classic Michael Garner is a and while Friuli might be best known for its Vitovska has remarkable freshness, with smoky co-owner of specialist Tria Wines, and excellent and distinctive , Pinot and limey mineral notes, lively acidity, and a DWWA Regional Chair for Bianco, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon, the saline finish. It’s worth noting that blends such northern Italy. His second region’s talented winemakers are now gaining as Collio Bianco and Colli Orientali Bianco (both book, Amarone and the Fine Wines of Verona, a reputation for varieties regarded as native. DOC), containing a combination of Friulano, was published in 2017 Four in particular stand out: Friulano, Malvasia Ribolla and Malvasia, can also be stunning. (£30, Infinite Ideas) Istriana, Ribolla Gialla and Vitovska. Across the region’s four DOCG and 12 DOC areas, these account for about 14% of plantings. Friulano (Sauvignonasse in Chile, Sauvignon Vert in Bordeaux) is clearly the ‘favourite child’, with almost 9.5% of plantings. A versatile , Friulano works well as a fresh, young varietal; the red apple and yellow peach fruit characters have mineral and saline notes, supported by a juicy freshness and silky palate. Extra time on the lees and/or judicious ageing in wood (preferably the traditional or chestnut botti) develops extra intensity, bringing candied and preserved fruit tones as well as rich, savoury leesy qualities. Friulano is capable of ageing well – up to 10 years in some cases. Malvasia Istriana, with about 1.5% of vineyard plantings, remains an enigma. The most distinctive of the various Malvasia varieties, it is characterised by pronounced mineral aromas and flavours. Good Malvasia Istriana will be firm-bodied, with a floral- toned, white peach character and a sharp, Seville -like acidity. Developing well in bottle over three or four years, it can take on almost -like notes. MARCO MILANIMARCO Ribolla Gialla (about 3% of plantings in Collio and Colli Orientali, where it has DOC status) swims against the tide. Whereas most of

the region’s white wines are rich and ripe, strong PHOTOGRAPH

122 | | July 2021 Lis Neris, La Vila Friulano, Picéch, Jelka, Collio 2015 Toros, Friulano, Collio 2019 Friuli Isonzo 2010 POA (2016) Bat and Bottle £27 Tannico £29.40-£34.80 (2017) Hedonism, Tannico Following fermentation and lees ageing The Collio denomination is renowned Working with low yields, ageing in in large barrels, this blend of Friulano, for its opulent and powerful wines that tonneaux and using frequent batonnage Malvasia and Ribolla is matured for a originate from the characteristic marl prior to bottling, Alvaro Pecorari makes further three years in cement. About and sandstone soils known locally as a Friulano capable of sustaining many 3,500 bottles of gloriously perfumed ponca. Fermentation and ageing in years’ ageing. The 2010 is full, ripe, and rich wine are produced, displaying stainless steel allows the pristine fruit richly perfumed and textured, and flashes of camomile, orange blossom, characters of this bottling to shine shows immaculate poise and length. marzipan and walnut, with a long finish through in their untrammelled glory, A benchmark example from a good of seasoned oak and mineral notes. before a long, clean, salty and creamy . Drink 2021-2025 Alcohol 13.5% Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% finish.Drink 2023-2027 Alc 14.5%

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Doi Mats, Friulano, Friuli Murva, Melaris Malvasia, Parovel, Barde Pôje, Carso 2016 Colli Orientali 2019 Friuli Isonzo 2017 N/A UK www.parovel.com N/A UK www.doimats.com £20.50 Tannico The Carso denomination produces Friuli’s A little more than 1,000 bottles were From less than 1ha of vines at Moraro most mineral-toned wines thanks to the produced of this singular Friulano from in the Isonzo denomination, this small, area’s unique sandstone and marl terrain. a tiny garage in Colli Orientali. family-run winery produces about 4,000 This wine spends about six months on It’s aged partly in used barriques and bottles annually of intense and aromatic the lees followed by extra ageing in the partly in clay anfora. Sourced from Malvasia. Redolent of marzipan and bottle. Scented lime and white peach low-yielding old vines, the wine displays orange blossom, the palate is rich aromas marry with great sapidity, leading uncommon life and energy: round and in mineral, bitter orange and candied to a long, juicy, dry and smoky finish. ripe with minty, limey, juicy fruit flavours fruit flavours, with superb balancing Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13% that carry notes of woodsmoke and sea acidity. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% salt. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 13.5%

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Ronco del Gelso, Toc Bas, Specogna, Friulano Riserva, Castello di Buttrio, Ribolla Gialla, Friuli Isonzo 2019 Friuli Colli Orientali 2016 Friuli Colli Orientali 2019 £20.30 (2018) Tannico POA Liberty Wines £21 Tannico Made in a traditional style with 12 The third generation of the Specogna From surrounding the 17th months’ ageing on the fine lees in large family farms about 20ha of land at century castle, Alessandra Felluga 25hl casks, this is classic old-school Rocca Bernada in the Colli Orientali. produces a Ribolla Gialla fermented and Friulano: full, round and rich with good Following 24 hours’ skin , and matured on the lees in stainless steel. texture and length. Flavours of hazelnut fermentation and ageing in barrel, this It’s fresh, ripe and delicate, with newly and fennel with cool, juicy, green fruit intense, single-vineyard Riserva is loaded mown hay, camomile and yellow flower notes lead to a long, smoky and salty with lime marmalade and candied fruit aromas. Juicy, floral and herbal-toned finish.Drink 2023-2030 Alc 13.5% notes over rich, salty and nutty flavours. flavours of Asian pear are balanced by Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14.5% brisk acidity. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13.5% ▶

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Decanter | July 2021 | 123 DECANTEREXPERT’S CHOICE

Drius, Malvasia, Friuli Isonzo 2019 Ferlat, Friulano, Friuli Isonzo 2019 Le Vigne di Zamò, Ribolla Gialla, N/A UK www.driusmauro.it N/A UK www.ferlatvini.it Friuli Colli Orientali 2019 Following fermentation in stainless steel, An extreme example of Friulano from this £17.50 Vinissimus 25% of the wine is matured in botte for tiny cellar at Cormons in the Isonzo DOC. Partly fermented in stainless steel at about eight months on its lees. The nose Fermented in cement with lengthy lees low temperatures, the remaining 20% is broad, ripe and full with floral and ageing and the malolactic completed, the ferments in 25hl oak barrels and the mineral notes, while the palate is ripe wine just about negotiates the tightrope wine stays on the fine lees for eight and fleshy with the classic long, tapering across the pitfall of oxidation to an months before bottling. Fragrant jasmine and stony dry finish so typical of the abundance of full, leesy, salty and nutty and pear aromas usher in a light, fresh variety. Drink 2021-2027 Alc 13.5% mineral flavours. Highly individual! and delicate palate of great poise and Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13% lovely acidity. Subtle and understated. Drink 2021-2023 Alc 13%

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Rodaro, Friulano, Cantina Produttori Cormòns, Castelvecchio, Vitovska, Friuli Colli Orientali 2019 Uve Autoctone, Collio 2018 Carso 2019 N/A UK www.rodaropaolo.it N/A UK www.cormons.com N/A UK www.castelvecchio.com The fresh and youthful style of Friulano 120 families farming 350ha of vines This is fermented with can be deceptively simple. Here, the make up the cooperative at Cormòns. indigenous yeasts and stored on the ripe, lively, scented nose of red apple The Collio Bianco is a blend of Friulano, fine lees in stainless steel. It shows and yellow peach has hints of angelica Malvasia Istriana and Ribolla Gialla focused aromas of green fruit, nettles and lemon zest, while the palate is full matured for about 16 months in large and herbs. The palate teems with zingy and juicy with citrussy acidity and a oval-shaped botti. With lemon candy and crunchy gooseberry and lime satisfying, lightly salty finish: hedonism in and jasmine aromas, the wine is rich and flavours, balanced by lively acidity and a a glass. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% juicy with balanced oak and pretty floral tapering, sapid and mineral-toned finish. notes. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% Drink 2021-2023 Alc 12.5%

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Le Due Torri, Friulano Superiore, Pizzulin, Friulano, Friuli Russiz Superiore, Friulano, Friuli Grave 2018 Colli Orientali 2019 Collio 2019 N/A UK www.le2torri.com N/A UK www.pizzulin.com POA Available via UK agent Dalla Terra Le Due Torri produces handcrafted wines Denis Pizzulin farms 11ha of vines at Partly fermented in barrel and partly from 8ha in the Grave DOC. This example Prepotto in the Colli Orientali. While the in stainless steel with additional lees of the little-used Superiore category area is best known as the home of the contact and bottle ageing, this modern- (which involves additional ageing before red grape Schioppettino, it can produce style Friulano offers a broad range of release) follows the basic tenets of excellent whites too, as this delicious aroma and flavour. The ripe, peachy fruit modern winemaking for a full-throttle Friulano ably demonstrates. Salty, lightly is supported by good acidity, while the style with promising development of roasted cashew nut flavours are lifted by oak confers a lightly buttery texture, aroma and flavour, yet which retains hints of camomile and evening primrose. resulting in impressive roundness and good freshness. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 13% Drink 2021-2025 Alc 14% depth. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 13.5% D

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124 | Decanter | July 2021