Going-To-The-Sun Chalets

Voice of the Glacier Park Foundation � Summer 2006 � Volume XX, No. 2

In this issue: • Sun Camp Going-to-the-Sun Chalets • The Ptarmigan A former employee remembers the 1930s Dining Room and 1940s at the legendary chalet • “Rock!” compound on Sun Point Climbing in Glacier • Gearjamming in the ‘50s • From Glacier to Gotham in 1911 • The GPT Company at Many Glacier Hotel in the early ‘50s • Hiking the North Circle • A Siyeh Retrospective

The launch “St. Mary” at Going-to-the-Sun Chalets, with Little Chief Mountain in the background (Hileman photo, courtesy of the Swiftcurrent Falls (collection of Dick Schwab.) Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 1 Inside News of the Summer of 2006: Fire Blackens St. Mary Valley The town of St. Mary on the eastern On July 31, the fire spread north- fire. Chewing Blackbones Camp- border of Glacier National Park was ward, crowning from tree to tree, and ground, the fire crew’s headquarters, nearly destroyed by a forest fire this came within a mile of the St. Mary was filled with hundreds of tents. The summer. The fire roared out of the townsite. The town was evacuated, helicopters buzzed back and forth Red Eagle Valley on the south side of along with several campgrounds and from dawn to dusk, trailing red 400- St. Mary Lake. It forced evacuation the St. Mary Park Service compound. gallon buckets which they dipped in of the townsite, then turned eastward Going-to-the-Sun Road was closed St. Mary Lake and then hauled off to and blackened thousands of acres between St. Mary and Rising Sun, dump on the fire. along St. Mary Ridge, along both and the Blackfeet Highway was closed As the winds abated, the fire sank sides of the Blackfeet Highway. for roughly twenty miles, from Cut back into the underbrush and smol- Bank Campground to Babb. The fire was discovered on July 28. dered over tens of thousands of acres. It started in or near the Red Eagle Suppression efforts and a shift in the Pillars of smoke arose from dozens Campground, about eight miles wind saved St. Mary from destruc- of “hot spots’ scattered over the area. from St. Mary. No lightning had tion. The town was reopened on Occasionally single trees or groups of been observed in the area, and it August 3. The fire moved eastward, trees would kindle and flare up into seems probable that the fire was burning large areas along St. Mary dramatic torches of flame. started by careless campers. Ridge, destroying the guardrails By late August, the fire was largely and burning the yellow lines off the Initial suppression efforts wee controlled, thanks in part to several surface of the Blackfeet Highway. It hampered by a shortage of equip- drenching rains. It was mapped at continued to burn for miles through ment. Bomber aircraft adapted for nearly 35,000 acres, about half of the foothills and high plains of the dropping fire suppression chemicals which were inside and half outside Blackfeet Indian Reservation. had been committed to large fires in of the park. The effects of the fire other states. While fire crews and Meanwhile, about 600 firefighters, will be starkly evident for many years gear were being assembled, high supported by helicopters and fire along the Blackfeet Highway for sev- winds rapidly blew the Red Eagle engines, were assembled to fight the eral miles south of St. Mary. Fire out of control. Glacier Park Foundation Officers: P.O. Box 15641 John Hagen, President Minneapolis, MN 55415 Einar Hanson, First Vice President The Inside Trail takes its name www.glacierparkfoundation.org Carol Dahle, Vice President - Membership Mac Willemssen, Secretary from the famous old trail Board of Directors: Tessie Bundick, Historian which connected Glacier Tessie Bundick Jim Lees, Treasurer Park Lodge with the vanished Laura Chihara Rolf Larson, Inside Trail Editor Janet Eisner Cornish chalets at Two Medicine, Carol Repulski Dahle The Glacier Park Foundation was Cut Bank, and St. Mary. The Joyce Daugaard formed by Glacier Park employees name thus emphasizes the Glen Elvig and visitors who have a deep love for publication’s focus on the Lee Flath this special place. The Foundation is commited both to the importance lore and history of Glacier David Gilbertson of wilderness preservation and to National Park. We invite John Hagen the importance of places like Glacier Einar Hanson as classrooms where people can submission of historical, Paul Hoff experience wilderness in intense scientific, or anecdotal ar- Mark Hufstetler meaningful ways, learning not only a love for the land, but also a respect ticles, commentary, poetry, Jeff Kuhn that nurtures the skills necessary to or artwork for publication in Linda Young Kuhn preserve that land. The Foundation future issues. Rolf Larson has a special interest in Glacier Park’s Leroy Lott history, traditions and visitor facilities. Greg Notess Mac Willemssen

2 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Going-to-the-Sun Chalets The motor launch St. Mary approaching Sun Point, circa Adventures in the ‘30s and ‘40s 1925 (Hileman photo, courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

by Don Loeffler was from the bow of the launch St. winds which blew down from Gun- Mary in 1932. By that time, the sight Mountain most of the time. (Glacier Park Lodge, Sun Camp, road from St. Mary Chalets to Go- Most of the chalet buildings could Many Glacier, 1940-42, 46-48) ing-to-the-Sun Chalets was finished, not be seen from the landing. When The Great Northern Railway, under but the approach was much more the passengers walked up the path the direction of James J.Hill, built spectacular by water. My dad felt to the registration desk they were the Going-to-the-Sun Chalets in that our family would enjoy this pleasantly surprised. 1913. The builders used local logs approach while he gave us a de- The road over Logan Pass was not and stone. Early visitors would tailed dissertation on his wanderings finished at the time of my first visit. board a vessel at the St. Mary Cha- through those rocks and rills. He However, work was progressing well. lets for a one-hour ride up the lake was entitled to do so since he really The noise from dynamite detona- to the chalets, docking on the lee knew the territory. tions echoed up and down the lake side of a prominent outcropping. The dock for Sun Camp was located and probably set off avalanches on My first glimpse of Sun Camp (as just north of a 100-foot cliff to the slopes. the chalet compound was called) protect the boat from the prevailing I remember how much fun my brother and I had throwing small My dad . . . gave us a detailed dissertation on rocks down into the water in front of the dining room until we got caught his wanderings through those rocks and rills. by our parents. An immediate halt He was entitled to do so since he really knew was declared. We proceeded to see the territory. how close we could walk to the edge

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 3 Falls (named after a titled English- man who explored the area) was a “must see” on every visitor’s agenda. Many years later, in 1941, I was hired to work at Going-to-the-Sun Chalets. One of my tasks was the removal by hand of rocks and gravel from the rail-mounted cradle which held the good ship St. Mary. Every winter, the vessel was hauled from the water for storage until the next season. The barnlike storage building was located about 100 yards The Loeffler family hiking along St. Mary Lake, 1932 (Don southwest of the St. Mary Chalet Loeffler photo) complex. By springtime, the force of the wind and ice would have buried the rails in rocky debris. The rocks of the cliffs without falling off until About 80 percent of the dudes stay- then had to be cleared in order to we were again apprehended and sent ing at Sun Camp took a little stroll run the launch back into the water. to our rooms. .8 mile to the west to a lovely little I guess Mother Nature was getting waterfall flowing from the eastern back at me for all the rocks that I I don’t remember all the arrange- slopes of Going-to-the-Sun Moun- had thrown into the lake as a kid! ments on that first visit, but we must tain. This stream cut through the have used lanterns for a light source. There was an interesting character red Grinnell argillite in a picturesque There was no electricity available. I in residence at Sun Camp by the cleft known as Sunrift Gorge. It do remember the attractive-looking name of Gus. As a youth, he had continued downhill spilling over a waitresses in their Swiss costumes. put in a stint as a “gandy dancer” on ledge of rock on its way down to the the Great Northern, and then had lake. This waterfall, called Baring

Chalet conﬁguration and boat dock at Sun Point (drawing courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

4 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Going-to-the- Sun Chalets from the north (photo courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

ended up employed by its subsidiary, overlooking the boat dock, and not our conversation, I happened to the Glacier Park Hotel Co. He was wanting to be outdone, I once did a mention to him that I knew of a a likeable chap, full of stories out cannonball off the dock. That was nifty little pond to swim in near Sun of his past. He would “hold court” the last time I ever even put my big Camp. Cy said that he was aware nightly down at the beer parlor. I toe in that icy lake. of it, and that it was the source of would sit at his feet and listen to his drinking water for the Going-to-the- I eagerly investigated Gus’s swim- wonderful and exciting tales of the Sun Chalets. He strongly suggested ming hole. Sure enough, there it past as if he were some mystical guru that I take my friends elsewhere for a was – small, cozy, hidden, and most from a Nepalese mountaintop. We refreshing dip. Gus’s secret tarn now important, not ice cold. I led a con- employees held him in high esteem. shows up on the topographical maps tingent of employees (mostly female) He was not a mountain climber, but as Lost Lake. he could fix almost anything. His stories of the construction of the Go- ing-to-the-Sun Highway were leg- [Gus] was a likeable chap, full of stories out of endary. I should have taken notes. his past. He would “hold court” nightly down at We never could figure out how he the beer parlor. I would sit at his feet and listen could open a bottle of beer with his thumb! to his wonderful and exciting tales of the past. Gus told me about a small mountain tarn less than a hundred yards off the to the secluded spot after swearing My room at the chalets was on the road just about where the turnoff is them all to secrecy. lower floor of the main building. It to Sun Camp. I was very interested faced southwest and had a sweeping One day, Cy Stevenson, the Gla- in this information, since people view of the upper portion of the lake cier Park Hotel Company’s Chief rarely swam in the frigid waters of and its attending peaks. The chalets Engineer, stopped by. He asked if St. Mary Lake. After seeing one were positioned so as to give the I would like to take a run over to of the more robust bellmen take a guests great views in every direction. Lake McDonald. In the course of swan dive off that hundred-foot cliff

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 5 One day I hiked around the upper Going-to-the-Sun Mountain on the couple of dishwashers at Going-to- end of the lake to Louis Hill’s cabin south. (I have no idea who Pres- the-Sun Chalets convinced of tis ex- site on the south shore. What I ton was, but he sure knew natural istence until they asked me, “Where found was not one cabin, but two. beauty when he saw it.) This Shan- do all the visitors park their cars?” The prime structure was tucked gri-La setting persistently was used They had me cold. I later learned neatly onto a small isthmus of land to perpetrate a hoax. Cy Stevenson that this duo had sold the idea to a almost directly across from Sun (who probably started the whole couple of waitresses who they took Camp. I surmised that the smaller business) first told me this mischie- on a hike up to Preston Park. They cabin was most likely a guesthouse, vous tale: “Preston Park has been set returned dog-tired but without any which had almost rotted away. The aside as an amusement area complete stuffed animals. high winds blowing down the lake with Ferris wheel, merry-go-round, It was a sad day when the chalets had reduced the remains to ghostly shooting gallery, candy floss, etc., were demolished after World War traces. The privileged few who were etc. It is a great place to visit when Two. I understand that they were fortunate enough to stay there had you get tired of looking at the glories bulldozed off the cliff onto the ice what I considered the best views in of Mother Nature.” Cy almost had below and set afire. That certainly Glacier Park. It was accessible only me convinced of the existence of was an ignoble way to go, but the by foot or on horseback. this amusement park, but inspection Glacier Park Hotel Company had no established that the tale was not true. There is a delightful little hanging choice. Over the years, I have found valley called Preston Park cradled From that time forward I did my bits of crockery and small pieces of between Mt. Siyeh on the north and best to sell the concept to first-timers metal at the site – mementos of a throughout the park. I almost had a glorious past.

Dining Room at Going-to-the- Sun Chalets (photo courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

Don Loefﬂer setting out for Glacier with his mother and brother, 1932 (Don Loefﬂer photo)

6 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail THE PTARMIGAN ROOM

by Ian B. Tippet (GPI 1955-2006) joining him in Tucson, Arizona, on at 10:00 am sharp, we had a confer- his very small permanent staff as his ence telephone call together. She I first met the honorable mayor of “right hand.” Eventually I became met the trains personally, did all the Tucson, Arizona, Don Hummel, on vice president. He told me that I processing of employees as they ar- a quiet late afternoon on a Sunday would be summer-based at Many rived, put them to bed for the night, in the latter part of the 1960 sum- Glacier Hotel as G.M., whilst also and dispatched employee buses next mer season at Lake McDonald overseeing the whole hiring process morning. Lodge. Glacier Park had embraced an unusually busy season with all its normal business, as well as hosting All wait staff had to have a great singing voice the national Governors’ Conference (most were voice majors), and we needed at Many Glacier Hotel. Many of the several brilliant pianists as accompanists. wives’ functions were at Lake Mc- Donald. for all properties (including the The location G.M.s didall the At that time, I was the location gen- Prince of Wales Hotel and transpor- training at their unit. 95% of our eral manager (G.M.) at McDonald, tation) and running the personnel employees in those days were college and Mr. Hummel already seemed to function. or university students. Supervisors know a lot about me. We sat down who often came back for years as in my office, which in those days was I had one assistant for many years, executive chefs and the like, were in the corner of the first floor bal- Marjorie Lillibridge, who “held fort” in a “profit share” program that Mr. cony. He told me he was going to be in the personnel office at Glacier Hummel put in place. Stability was purchasing the Glacier Park Compa- Park Lodge while I was up at Many rigid. Disciplines were rigid. ny’s properties, and that I would be Glacier Hotel. For countless seasons

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 7 (Continued from previous page) We printed each winter 25,000 ap- assigned, verbally, the stations. She came on duty for the din- plications, as Mr. Hummel wanted ner shift dressed like a queen with I assigned myself to the Ptarmigan student employees from every state enough creations for a different attire Room entrance desk for dinner in the union on the payrolls. Mar- each evening. service for 24 seasons to take the jorie and I contacted every college waiting list and help with seating. In those glorious days, we had some and university in the USA, using My assistant manager, Professor 32 Ptarmigan wait staff, all of course Lovejoy’s College Guide, and kept Roger L. Stephens, also assisted the with fabulous singing voices. At tabulation by state of how we were bussers in getting the tables turned 7:00 p.m., near the ending of the doing. We put normal emphasis over and around ASAP. We were first guest sitting, a pianist would go on all majors, but extra emphasis always dealing with over 500 diners to the piano and “set the mood” by on accounting, culinary arts, ho- every evening. Guests had a cock- playing some Joplin. Gradually all tel/restaurant, history/geology (for tail in the Interlachen Lounge or the wait staff would meander down drivers), and music/drama majors. Swiss Lounge whilst waiting for their to the fireplace section and choir The mail came back in to us by our name to be called. area in a half-moon setting. We had postman in Tucson in long grey trays masses of four-part harmony works every morning by the hundreds of One of my model dining room ca- ready to belt out at any time! We envelopes, and took hours to process shiers in the Ptarmigan Room, from might have opened with a rousing daily. Wisconsin, Carol Repulski Dahle, number from Oliver ...”Consider was with me for many seasons. She When I first took the reins at Many Yourself at Home”… followed by a trained all the cashiers in her mar- Glacier in 1961, the 240-seat din- tenor coming out of the choir ranks velous and exacting standards with ing room was just called “the dining to sing a solo such as “Danny Boy.” huge professionalism. Her traffic room.” I had an extremely talented The Ptarmigan Room choir repeated sheets, order check numbers, #3 employee majoring in art do an oil the whole affair at the end of second pencils, and account balances were painting of a ptarmigan in its sum- seating around 9:00 pm. correct to the last penny—amazing! mer coat of livery. I had it framed, and it hung over the entrance door of the dining room, now called “The Ptarmigan Room,” for over 25 years. I started right away to give the room some extra character, with cushions made for seats, new draperies, and colorful mugs, steins and plates around the upper wall shelving. All wait staff had to have a great singing voice (most were voice majors), and we needed several brilliant pianists as accompanists. Swiss-style uniforms were purchased for female wait staff. Hair had to be netted, and hospital-type white shoes were worn with their hospital-type white knee-high stockings. Before each meal, the dining room manager lined-up his whole team, inspected Chef Don Jacobs and his wife Bertha at a Ptarmigan Room buffet their dress attire, checked for clean table, summer of 1978. (Rolf Larson photo) nails, shoe cleanliness, etc, then discussed the menu selections, and 8 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail When guests had ordered birthday cakes (we made them on site by Having worked as G.M. at Many Glacier hand), the “Happy Birthday” song Hotel for so many years and hosted the was performed in four-part harmony at the guest table. We brought the Ptarmigan Room at dinner for all those cake in held high from the kitchen, seasons, I have huge memories of many and each waitperson had two spar- memorable guests. klers lit in each hand. It was man- datory that before dinner, wait staff brush their teeth, as at the cake the earlier Don Hummel years, Sun- Having worked as G.M. at Many service the guys kissed all the women day evenings were devoted to a buffet Glacier Hotel for so many years at the guest table, and the gals kissed at all of our properties. We at Many and hosted the Ptarmigan Room at all the men. Glacier flew in a huge fresh salmon dinner for all those seasons, I have The spirit of the employees and the from Seattle, Washington, as the huge memories of many memorable quality of the musical numbers were table highlight. We followed dinner guests. One woman stands out in superb, and “got guests ready” for with an evening concert in the lobby my mind, especially … the remark- the ranger/naturalist talk and then (“Sunday Night is Concert Night”) able film star, Greer Garson. She the evening lobby performance or which continued for 25 years. made her debut opposite Robert Donat in MGM’s “Goodbye Mr. the St. Moritz Room musical pro- A distinctive feature of the Ptarmi- Chips” in l939, followed that op- duction. I was amazed through all gan Room for many years was the posite Walter Pidgeon in l942 in those years at the time and effort the ‘blue willow”pattern china. During “Mrs. Miniver,” and had many other employees gave of themselves to such the Great Northern ownership days, successes. She had retired from stage fabulous events of their own accord. it was shipped directly from the pot- and screen when she and her hus- teries in Staffordshire, England, in Over the years, the Ptarmigan Room band stayed with us, and I enjoyed barrels on the steamship companies. has hosted hundreds of special having tea with her one afternoon. We used their beautiful china in events. Amongst them was the an- When she came into the Ptarmigan the Glacier dining rooms for many nual Culinary Olympics on a Sun- Room for dinner, every other guest years, and we still had a large inven- day every August. Under Glacier stood up and applauded vigorously. tory of it through the later Hummel Park, Incorporated’s ownership by It was a very moving experience ownership. There were many large the Greyhound Dial Corporation, indeed. She was, without question, platters at Many Glacier which we Chief Executive Mr. John Teets told one of the most gracious women I used for serving the fresh fish which me that he wanted all our young have ever met my life. Two other many guests caught themselves at cooks in all Glacier kitchens to actu- radio and television personalities I Glacier. At that time, fishing was ally be majoring in culinary arts, and enjoyed having with us were Edward an important guest occupation. We that went on for many seasons. The R. Murrow and Roger Mudd. Culinary Olympics gave the op- cooked their fish provided they were portunity for each of those talented scaled and cleaned. Handling the dinner meal with my staff was the real way for me to get young men and women to plan and As the years went by, the blue willow to meet all of our guests and find out work on their presentation piece, ware collection diminished. The how we were doing! Visiting with which on the big day was part of a remaining inventory was sold in the the guests was another way of “facing massive buffet. The company judged gift shops. It was disappointing to the music” first hand. Also I miss the entries, donated many prizes, lose it, as dining room table arrange- the iced relish boats we presented and gave recognition and encourage- ments previously were very distinc- before taking menu orders, and a few ment to these young budding chefs tive with it, along with the heavy years later, the hot meat mini-balls for all their hard work. starched tablecloths, fresh flowers, platter for guests to munch on while and silver cutlery. To find our culinary people, we put deciding. I miss those wonderful special bulletins out to every culinary days. school in the USA and Canada. In

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 9 So Many People

. . . So Many Memories

10 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail “ROCK!!” Climbing in Glacier Amid the Perils of Falling Rock by Richard Schwab (Many Glacier I have always thought of the Glacier many close calls with loose rock but 1947-52) mountains as somehow being alive fortunately no calamities. or haunted by the forces of life. Since the mountains of Glacier Park My climbing in Glacier as an em- Although in the forties and fifties I were carved out of an overthrust ployee never included what would hardly knew anything about that, I of thousands of layers of sedimen- be called technical climbing, only certainly enjoyed the beauties and tary rock, with one notable igneous lots of scrambling. We just liked to fascination of the huge blocks of intrusion (the diorite band), it is a get to the tops of the mountains, but layered rock exposed in the mas- geologists’ paradise. What I later usually not the dangerous ones. Oc- sive shoulders of the mountains, learned about the geological history casionally by accident, not by inten- and I was struck by the wonderful of the Park has added much to my tion, we got into dangerous stretches colors – reds, greens, yellows, grays, appreciation and understanding of on parts of the way up or down a and tans – that spread out from the the great scenes laid out before our peak or cliff. many sedimentary bands. They are eyes in Glacier. The awesome fact especially notable if you look east- In 1947, I did manage to get in- that stays in my mind as I look at ward from any peak or pass. volved in some rope work. In that them now is that a vast amount of year there was only one employee, the bulk of the mountains was once The sedimentary, and therefore Don Loeffler, who knew anything alive! The Siyeh Formation and crumbly, character of the rocks about technical climbing, and he other layers are made of limestone requires special climbing skills, had a rope. At least once I found derived from the calcium produced although we did not as employees myself part of his climbing group, which included Steve Farbotnik, Joe Occasionally by accident, not by intention, we Obenski, and Al Jurciokonis. They got into dangerous stretches on parts of the way were experimenting with belaying and rappelling on the sheer eastern up or down a peak or cliff. cliffs of Mt. Altyn. The details of the actual operation and deposited on the bottom of a think comparatively about climbing are hazy in my memory, but I do great sea by uncounted trillions of conditions in Glacier as opposed to recall a couple of us were standing at ocean creatures. That knowledge more solid rock formations else- the base of a cliff waiting for some- makes the peaks seem to shimmer and where. In sedimentary slopes and one to descend when suddenly we vibrate with life in my imagination. cliffs close attention has to be paid heard a shout, “Rock! Rock!” The always to the danger of loose or fellow with me dove for cover toward Perhaps the living origins of major falling rocks on any climb. We had a sort of chimney indentation in the parts of their sediments explains why cliff. This, it turned out, was close to

Index of photos for “The Ptarmigan Room:” page 7— Interior Secretary James Watt leans on Dining Room Manager Milt Crotts while singing “This Land is My Land” in 1982 (Milt Crotts photo); page 10, clockwise from upper left – Phil Reed atop a pyramid of waiters in 1975 (Leanna Miles Preston photo); Joyce Daugaard, 1972 (Dave Pierson photo); Carol Repulski Dahle, 1973 (John Cotham photo); Bill Rollie, 1972 (Dave Pierson photo); Tessie Bundick and Steven Schultz, 2006 (Steven Schultz photo); Doug Peterson, Steve White, Greg Landis, 1972 (Dave Pierson photo); Margie Goergen, 1972 (Dave Pierson photo); Milt Crotts, 1981 (Milt Crotts photo); Ann Littleﬁeld and Cliff Reykdal, 1973 (John Cotham photo); Mary Brumby Stephens and Kathy Stapleton Renno, 1972 (Dave Pierson photo); the 1973 staff under Many Glacier’s emblematic Swiss ﬂag (John Cotham photo)

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 11 being fatal for him, because a huge rock crashed down only inches from his head where he was lying against the cliff. That shook us up a bit. The really memorable event that day, though, resulted from the fall of a large white boulder which had been loosened by the rope or by a climber’s foot. By that time there were three or four of us sitting with our backs to the base of the cliff, and we watched the boulder breaking up a bit as it bounded a considerable distance down the scree below us and disappeared into some brush not Dick Schwab rests on a ledge along the Ptarmigan Wall with Carolyn far from the Babb road, which runs and Worth Moffit . (Rolf Larson photo) fairly close to the south and east face of Altyn. We thought the boulder had stopped of the mountain in the direction of dormitory or Swiftcurrent camp- in the brush, but it had not. By a the hotel. ground as unobtrusively as possible. sort of diabolical accident of tim- Now Farbotnik, Obenski, and No rangers tracked us down, and I ing a large limousine was moving Jurciokonis, one or more of them, never heard another thing about the ponderously along the road toward apparently had already had a run-in limousine. I have often wondered Many. Just at the wrong moment with the rangers, and they mut- whether it was patched up at the the rock, still with a good deal of tered, “Let’s get out of here.” We all gearjammers’ compound or whether momentum, popped out onto the scattered down the scree and talus it had to be hauled out by wrecker to tar directly in front of it. It was and made our ways back to the Cardston, Browning, or Great Falls. too late to stop the car, and before our disbelieving eyes the white rock disappeared underneath it. Everyone was wincing and groaning, and suddenly someone exclaimed, “Where’s the rock?” By that time there were three or four of us The limousine had continued on sitting with our backs to the base of the its stately way for quite a distance cliff, and we watched the boulder breaking with the rock apparently stuck in its undercarriage. And then we all let up a bit as it bounded a considerable out a yell of astonishment as we saw distance down the scree below us. . . . it bounce out from under the other side of the car. It was now completely black! “Oil!” someone gasped. “It must have ruptured the oil pan!” Still the limousine cruised forward and disappeared around the shoulder

12 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail FROM GLACIER TO GOTHAM in1911

Blackfeet travelers in New York City (photo, courtesy of the Minnesota Historical Society, Great Northern Railway collection)

Louis Hill and the Blackfeet at the New York Land Show

By Tessie Bundick (Many Glacier splendors of Glacier National Park, in making a living from this land. 1972-80) along with some fascinating artifacts Louis Hill was quoted in the Illus- from the Blackfeet Indian nation. trated Buffalo Express concerning In 1911, a much anticipated, well this subject. Genuinely sympathetic publicized, very grand agricultural Louis Hill, a prodigious and talented to the cause of the Blackfeet, who show was held at Madison Square promoter, instigated the idea of bring- had been famous for their age-old Garden in New York City from ing a group of senior members of the hunter lifestyle, he said, “If this is to November 3-12. This extravaganza, Blackfeet tribe to New York, mainly be, a helping hand is what they most which was called the American as a publicity strategy. The Montana need now, and proper guidance will Land and Irrigation Exposition, was reservation of these people shared a be a great factor in adjusting them organized to display the majestic and border with Glacier National Park, a to such a complete change in their lavish bounty of the earth for all to beautiful Rocky Mountain place on mode of living.” admire. the Great Northern line, that Hill hoped to develop for tourism. Hill also seemed truly interested The Great Northern Railway, with in preserving the traditional cul- Louis W. Hill as president, was front The “official” reason for the trip ture of these people. He made a and center as an enthusiastic partici- would be to enlighten the Native point of collecting artifacts and pant, eager to show off the agricul- Americans as to the glories of farm- was inducted into the tribe, as the tural wonders of the Midwest and ing so that they might return to their Blackfeet returned his respect. Hill the fields along the route of its vast Montana home and instill the agri- had encouraged the tribe to hold a rail system to the west. In addition, cultural work ethic in their people. “final” grass dance that year, as the the Great Northern also displayed a The Blackfeet had been “given” farms reservation was to be thrown open gallery of paintings, interspersed with on their 500,000 acre reservation to white settlement in the spring of the corn and rye, trumpeting the and it was felt that they needed aid

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 13 1912. The ceremony, traditionally Gaynor. This official, by way of Arthur E. Stilwell. The guests of this performed to ask for abundant grass awkward introduction, promptly glittering affair were an assembly of for the buffalo, was even recorded on asked the Montana delegation, “You governors, senators, railroad men Hill’s orders, using 5000 feet of film. like big city. Have good time. See and bankers, who were in New York nice places?” One of the addressees, to attend the show. The experiment of taking this native a highly educated Carlisle graduate, group to New York was sanctioned The beautifully dressed Montana looked directly at the mayor (who by the U.S. government and was to fivesome made their way to the pres- was embroiled in a much publicized be watched with interest by Presi- ident’s table. They brought grapes scandal) and said, “Is it true, may I dent Taft and Secretary of the Inte- and pumpkins as gifts, supposedly ask, that certain politicians connect- rior Fiske. The official word was that grown on their own farms. ed with your government here have a trip to the Land Show would help been accused of obtaining money in The Blackfeet were a stunning main the Blackfeet to “see for themselves ways not compatible with their oath attraction and the actual Land what agriculture really means.” And so, with much ado, several tribal elders were introduced to a stunned [T]heir appearance in New York City was a New York City in grand style. Five promotional stunt for the Great Northern, and Blackfeet, Horse Ghost, Killed Twice, more, specifically for Glacier National Park. And, Iron Whip, Spotted Eagle and Crows Twice, in full ceremonial dress, more than likely, it was highly effective. complete with war bonnets, were marched into City Hall on Novem- of office?” The Mayor quickly closed Show. If they did, indeed, “learn” ber 2, 1911, to meet with the Mayor. the interview with a few good wishes anything from their exposure to As they made their way through the and brief words of encouragement. this vast cornucopia of agricultural building, they caused gasps of amaze- wealth and might, then perhaps it The services of the Blackfeet were ment from the bystanders. Little was worth all the trouble. The point also employed at the Waldorf-Astoria boys ran alongside of them and one is – they already knew how to farm Hotel in the evening of that day. On brave child actually plucked at the on their reservation, so really, their the same program was the Mormon fringe of one of the leather shirts, appearance in New York City was Tabernacle Choir (the young ladies only to receive an icy stare. a promotional stunt for the Great section). The tribal members were Northern, and more, specifically for Finally, this colorful party made its introduced into the ballroom, where Glacier National Park. And, more way to the appointed destination a dinner was being held by the Land than likely, it was highly effective. and their rendezvous with Mayor and Irrigation Exposition president, GLACIER BULLETIN BOARD The Inside Trailwelcomes not only articles, but also brief letters and anecdotes. Here are a few which were sent to us recently.

The Land and Irrigation MoreExposition Football at Madison Square Gardens, 1911 (photo, courtesy of the Minnesota MemoriesHistorical Society, Great Northern Railway collection) Too bad those Glacier Park Lodge v. Many Glacier football games (Spring 2006 issue) didn’t start a couple of years

14 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail The GPT Company at Many Glacier in the Early ‘50s

The author in 2004 with a classic Glacier Park limousine (Jack Chamberlain photo)

by Jack G. Chamberlain (Glacier Park the summer. Their sumptuous food, Although he taught accounting, Transport, 1952, ’54) friendliness and knowledge of the Sid was legally blind (20/200). He flowers and natural history of the always wore thick “coke bottle” For decades in the mid-20th century, Park was a real blessing. The dorm glasses but never missed a thing. He the Glacier Park Transport Company was a two-story, totally wooden claimed that he could memorize eye (GPT Co.) was managed efficiently structure. Each of the upstairs charts at the Department of Motor by Howard Hays and Fred Noble. sleeping rooms had a “fire escape” Vehicles. He would get a student The company operated the 1936 -- a knotted, two-inch-thick rope, to go with him on the day of his red buses and classic limousines that 20 feet long, tied to a wall stud and driving test to tell him the letters carried tourists from hotel to hotel. coiled under the single window! on the eye chart, which Sid then Many Glacier Hotel was the Valhalla The front room or lounge area was memorized. He always had three of the Park due to its outstanding stocked with books and games (used things at Many Glacier – a valid accommodations, camping, hik- especially on stormy days). driver’s license, a chauffeur, and a ing, employees, pristine beauty and three-breasted, brown suit. He was isolation – 12 miles from the nearest For years, the Transport Agent at a wonderful, proud, humorous man “highway” at Babb. Many was the one and only, indomi- who is missed. table legend, Mr. Sid Couch. He GPT Co. had a large garage, gas got the buses off on time at the hotel In the early ‘50s, I was a biology pump, employees’ dormitory, and and also was the official “dorm boss.” student at Occidental College in Los parking lot at Many Glacier. The He saw to it that tables were set and Angeles. I was always looking for a wonderful Mr. and Mrs. Porter basic cleaning was done at 6 AM mountainous retreat from the heat, staffed the dormitory (the present each morning before anyone had the newly growing crowds and the Upper Dorm at Many), which had breakfast. If you were a slugabed or smog. A friend introduced me to its own kitchen and cafeteria. They a laggard, Sid would admonish you Sid Couch, and I was hired for the taught school for nine months each in colorful language (especially if summers of ’52 and ’54. In both year in Idaho and cooked at the others were within earshot). summers, I reported to East Glacier, Many Glacier Transport Dorm in where I was assigned a red and black

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 15 limousine – a 1931 LaSalle in ’52 bears both on the trail and at the mer, and his face would get red for and a 1930 Lincoln in ’54. These open dump. At the dump the bears hours. When he and I teamed up as vehicle assignments were made by a were well fed and busy augmenting doubles – forget it. huge Blackfeet Indian, the longtime their usual diet with steak. They had At night, we often ended up down- chief mechanic for GPT Co. – the little concern for a guy standing near stairs at the hotel lounge where we’d one and only, fearsome Gene Kra- a classic car 20-30 feet away with a dance until closing. Then we’d caleea! He simply gave me a map camera – or so I thought. go off on foot to the Swiftcurrent and told me to go to Many Glacier During the summers, I also had time campground with leftover food from to be under Sid’s tutelage there. off to explore the mountains and the kitchen. We would build a big My title was “assistant mechanic.” the wildlife. In the early spring, I bonfire and sing and party for hours. My job was to make sure the buses used to watch the herds of mountain Each morning, as Sid made abusive were gassed and lined up in the sheep romping in the snow above remarks about our haggard appear- morning in the parking lot for the the hotel. The males always lined up ance, we swore that “tonight we gearjammers. I also was to chauffeur their horns to me if I got too close! will go to bed early.” Of course, we Sid and others to and from the hotel never did. It took me most of each summer to some 500 yards away and to drive adjust to “swimming” in the Swift- All in all, it was the best of times. It VIPs to Babb or to the Swiftcurrent current glacial tarn. The water was was rather like a momentary sidestep cabins. I occasionally had the job bitterly cold all summer. I would from the more pressing plans of edu- of rushing clients who had overslept immerse first a foot, then a leg, and cation, careers, etc. – and yet it was a to board a bus which was already en so on each week. I don’t recall ever great social learning experience. We route. seeing anyone outright swimming in were up high in the mountains with I remember well once tending to a that lake. glorious air and fabulous scenery, bus that was low on oil and chang- with natural endorphins flowing all I also played hours and hours of ing the fluid but not the filter. The the time. Lasting friendships were cribbage with the drivers and with very next afternoon, Gene Kracaleea made, great loves sometimes devel- Sid. Sid played only bridge in LA drove the 50-odd miles from East oped, and some ended in subsequent and only cribbage at Many. Few Glacier to Many to have words with marriages. A fabulous time. A people could beat him. I did, maybe me: “Oil and filters are ALWAYS fabulous place. once or twice during the entire sum- CHANGED TOGETHER!” The drivers feared the guy, but after three months or so I found him under- standable and even likeable. My visits to the Blackfeet Indian Reserva- tion town of Browning enlightened me about his life in Montana. In addition to my other jobs, I volunteered to take the weekly trash from the dorm to the open pit dump – at that time just a mile down the road toward Babb. As a young bi- ologist, I wanted to observe the bears that came to feast on the garbage. I would go alone in the early morning or at dusk so as to study their appearance and movements as closely as possible. I was lucky, I guess, as I had only benign meetings with

16 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail Hiking the North Circle By Anthony Hoff (St. Mary Lodge 2004) of two sow grizzlies and their respective We reached Stoney Indian tired and offspring, so we chose to enter the loop slightly behind schedule. Heat and hills In the summer of 2004 it was my through Poia Lake over Redgap Pass had slowed our ascent and we hurried privilege to work as a cook in the and to eliminate the side trip to Goat down the steep switchbacks on the production kitchen of Roscoe Black’s Haunt. We took off into the darkness other side to try to catch up. When Resort at Glacier in St. Mary, Montana. at the trailhead, making plenty of noise we paused by a creek, Charlie revealed Any complaints about management but avoiding using our flashlights so another problem that had been slow- and wages aside, the job gave me and that our eyes would adjust. A full moon ing him down. The heavy boots that about 200 others a great opportunity provided just enough light for us to had served him so well on shorter hikes to explore the Park without having to stumble along. were chafing under the strain of the last fulfill the extended season requirements 35 miles and had caused some bloody of Glacier, Inc. The best thing you could say about blisters. At this point continuing was those first few hours was that we didn’t Towards the beginning of August, the really our only option, so we slapped get lost. But we were rewarded at novelty of the fifteen-mile jaunt through some duct tape on the wounds and kept Redgap pass by an amazing sunrise the mountains had begun to wear out going, a little slower. which illuminated the rock from which for many of the staff. Some responded by taking up more easily gratifying activities such as fly fishing or heavy A few of us, however, chose to venture deeper drinking. A few of us, however, chose to venture deeper and higher into the and higher into the park, pushing the limits of park, pushing the limits of our time off our time off to tread as many trails and scale as to tread as many trails and scale as many peaks as our joints would tolerate. many peaks as our joints would tolerate. It was after hearing stories of earlier generations of hotel employees conquer- it gets its name. We paused to eat a On our way up to Fifty Mountain we ing the old “North Circle” in a single light breakfast and discovered that our met some Swiftcurrent employees on day that I recognized the challenge that fellow kitchen employees had written an overnight trip and stopped to talk. we would take on. The route runs from encouraging messages like “You’re going They asked where we were going, and Swiftcurrent through the Ptarmigan to die!” on our sack lunches. Charlie I told them Fifty Mountain. Before Tunnel, into the Belly River valley, over led us down the pass towards Lake I could explain that this was part of a the Stoney Indian Pass, through the Elizabeth, running whenever we could. larger route, one of them commented Kootenai area to Goat Haunt, then back So far we were making good time. “That’s good, we just met a couple of idiots trying to hike 40 miles in one south to crawl up to Fifty Mountain We breezed by Lake Elizabeth and day. We were worried you might be and ultimately back over the Swiftcur- blazed our way up towards the Mo- trying something stupid like that.” I rent Pass to return to the beginning. It kowanis River. It was here that we had mumbled something incoherent and totals over 60 miles. Unfortunately, (surprisingly) our only bear encounter we kept climbing. With this optimistic when I tried pitching this route to my of the day. After nearly ten hours on exchange in mind we ascended to the more adventurous friends, the response the trail, the numbness of extended high meadows of Fifty Mountain just was usually something like “16 miles? hiking through dense foliage had set in time to encounter a thunderstorm. That sounds like a lot,” or “How many in, and we grew careless about making Although it was short and we were not days?” or, bluntly, “You are an idiot.” noise, our eyes wandering towards our struck by lightning, we began the High- So it was a small group that eventually boots. We suddenly heard a rustling line leg wet, tired, and demoralized. climbed into a borrowed truck at 2 am up the trail ahead of us and looked up on our way to Swiftcurrent. Specifically, to discover that the source had been a We hit the wall along the Highline. it was me and Karol “Charlie” Wolek, a massive black furry shape hightailing it Out of food and reduced to eating Polish kitchen worker with a reputation away from us. Although it shocked us, straight Powerade powder, we lagged for setting a blistering pace when lead- the bear avoided us and we continued and made far less progress than earlier. ing hikes. unslowed, fingering the triggers of our I nervously watched the sun sinking Our original route through Ptarmigan bear spray somewhat nervously. towards the far horizon, remembering had been confounded by the presence that our last leg would be on the east The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 17 side of the mountains. The situation was looking grim as we passed above the Granite Park Chalet and plunged into the deepening darkness on the other side of Swiftcurrent Pass. Once again forgoing flashlights, we sped ahead to get past the steeper descent before the light failed us entirely. Charlie had hiked this stretch before during the day, so he led us confidently through the dark. We stumbled along, somehow not losing the trail, and after what seemed like an eternity the faint lights of the Swiftcurrent Motor Lodge ap- peared in the distance. Late-night desk Anthony Hoff and Karol Wolek at daybreak on Redgap Pass, with Mount workers gave us odd looks as we stag- Merritt and Old Sun Glacier in the background (Anthony Hoff photo) gered to the building. After 58 miles of a thick fog. It was an incredibly surreal the long drive back to St. Mary. When trail, 2 miles of road separated us from experience. A few cars passed, but aside we awoke late the next day, our co- our truck, and the prospects for hitch- from that I saw nothing but the ten feet workers expressed amazement that we hiking looked grim as it was now after of road ahead of me, hazily lit by the were still alive, with the exception of midnight. Charlie’s feet were bleeding glow of the invisible moon. I finally slid one. Mitko, a Bulgarian in the kitchen again, so he elected to wait there with into the driver’s seat of the truck with who had refused to believe such a hike our packs while I ran down the road. just enough energy left to operate the was possible, greeted us with an unim- Carrying nothing but the keys, a can clutch on the way back. Charlie was pressed “60 miles? I thought you were of bear spray, and an intermittently asleep on a bench outside the lodge and going to do 65!” functional headlamp, I cruised through it was all we could do to stay awake on A Siyeh Retrospective By Mark Hufstetler (Lake McDonald remember the little, black-and-white from Glacier Park, Incorporated in my Lodge 1978-83) Glacier brochure that the Park Service mailbox, containing a slightly-quirky issued back then. The booklet included employment letter typed on an all-caps Back when I was a kid, my Dad would a photo of a horseback party working typewriter and bearing Ian B. Tippet’s take a week off work each summer and up the spectacular trail along the cliffs distinctive signature. For hundreds of the family would head out on vacation. just north of Ptarmigan Tunnel, and young men and women each year, get- In 1966, when I was 8 years old, we the image transfixed me. I wanted to ting a letter like that marked the begin- were living in central Idaho and Glacier go there so very badly, but there was no ning of a Montana summer adventure was the chosen summer destination. I way an eight-year-old kid with two out- that frequently progressed into a lifelong was always excited about those annual of-shape parents would ever make it. I fondness for Glacier; it was the same for vacations, but something happened took the brochure home, though, and me, too, but was also a rekindling of a almost the instant we arrived in Glacier: kept it in my desk, and looked at that dormant infatuation that had been with I fell in love with the place. photograph often. me since I was a kid. I only remember a few specifics about With that sort of memory it was really The summer at Lake McDonald Lodge that trip, but I know that we camped no surprise that when it came time to was great, of course: I had countless in my grandparents’ housetrailer, and look for a summer job twelve years later, adventures, made some amazing new that I convinced my Dad to take me my first thought was Glacier. It was a friends, and I even thought I fell in on a ranger-led hike to Avalanche Lake, real thrill back in the spring of 1978 love. I was pretty distraught when it all and that I bought a red felt pennant when I returned to my college dorm ended, but I left with a trove of wonder- at Two Medicine, with a drawing of one afternoon to find a fat envelope ful memories and the certainty that I Mt. Sinopah on it. And I very much

18 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail would return ... and the knowledge that I was thinking about all this last July, as nally-dull connector trail from Preston now Glacier would remain a part of my my friend Joel and I were starting a trip to Jackson Glacier overlook, just so I life forever. Those memories drew me over Siyeh Pass, among my favorite of could ink it in on my trail map; and back to Lake McDonald summer jobs Glacier’s shorter trails. I first did Siyeh a failed attempt to climb Mt. Siyeh, the next year, and the next -- a total back in August 1978, with a couple of abandoned at a pitifully-low elevation of six seasons in all. After my last GPI friends named Danny and Bill. Befit- probably in favor of a million-calorie summer I moved to Montana full-time, ting the 20-year-old physique I had lunch at Johnson’s Cafe. and later got to spend two long seasons back then, our day included sidetrips The experiences of recent years have as a Park Service employee in Glacier. to Sexton Glacier as well as the top of added still more depth to my memories Eight memorable summers in the park, Piegan Pass, probably accomplished of Siyeh. I hiked the trail early in the some better than others, but each one with an effortlessness that would appall summer of 2002 with another friend treasured. me today. I had that cheap red daypack named Dan; we were among the first that I’d bought at the lodge’s campstore, At the end of each of those years I won- over the pass that year, and nearly the and an employee sack lunch that was dered if my physical connection to the entire descent from Siyeh to Baring probably smashed flat by the time it park would somehow end, but it never Basin was covered in a steep and pristine was ready to be eaten. And I’m sure we did. Even after I finally stopped work- snowfield. We skied down the thing had to hitchhike all the way back to the ing at Glacier I kept returning as a visi- on our hiking boots, with a feeling of hotel after it was all done. tor, often two or three times a summer. euphoria that would be hard to match At first the visits were pure nostalgia, anywhere. And this summer with Joel

For hundreds of young men and women each year, getting a letter like that marked the beginning of a Montana summer adventure that frequently progressed into a lifelong fondness for Glacier; akin to looking at empty photographs, I revisited the western end of that trail we met some really cute fellow hikers, and they just left me with a sadness the following year, as part of a traverse amazingly got a cell phone call on the for times past. Eventually, though, of Piegan Pass with Alan, my long- very top of the pass ... and we saw some my continued trips to Glacier started time hiking buddy. We did Piegan of the very first smoke from the Red generating fond memories of their own, backwards, going up the more grueling Eagle forest fire churning into the bright and I began valuing my continued rela- north side of the pass after spending a cloudless skies to the south. tionship with the park almost as much restless and nervous night surreptitious- No matter who I’m with, the next as those early encounters of my youth. ly camped in a red bus sitting in the time I do Siyeh all of these memories Each trip -- with old friends, new ones, Many Glacier parking lot. To this day, -- and more -- will come back to me, or alone -- added another layer of expe- Alan still takes glee in reminding me of and similar recollections will surface rience and intimacy to my long-stand- the terrifying moment on the pass when as I revisit other hikes and drives and ing relationship with the park. I lost my footing on a steep snowfield favorite places. It’s reason enough for and nearly slid into oblivion. Today, it seems that almost every spot me to keep returning to Glacier again in Glacier is associated with a memory Oh, and there was the Siyeh trip in and again, and it’s a continual reminder for me ... and often a succession of 1981 with Joe, my intrepid fellow of how special the place is, and how it’s memories, built up over the years. It’s a bellman. He took a photo of me atop become such a part of my life. remarkably cool thing, and something the pass that is still one of my favorites that makes me more eager than ever to today. I remember some shorter trips, keep returning to Glacier and keep be- too -- visits to Preston Park to see the ing involved in the park. wildflowers; a trudge along the termi-

The Inside Trail � Winter 2005 � 19 GLACIER BULLETIN BOARD The Inside Trailwelcomes not only games were always behind the lodge touchdown. As long as you heaved articles, but also brief letters and anec- – slightly away from the pool. a pass anywhere near Dave, he had dotes. Here are a few which were sent it and was gone. John Dobbertin, Jr. Somehow in ’62 and ’63 I ended up to us recently. (Glacier Park Lodge 1962-63) as a quarterback although I was not More Football Memories all that accurate a passer. It didn’t Missing Person Inquiry matter, however, because we had an Too bad those Glacier Park Lodge v. Does anyone have information outstanding end from Washington Many Glacier football games (Spring concerning Jane Gelston Buck? She State. In my dotage his last name is 2006 issue) didn’t start a couple worked at Glacier Park Lodge in gone, but his ﬁrst name was Dave. of years earlier. Because we had the early 1960s. Her brother Ken He gained fame in college ball by the grass at GPL there were always drowned in one of the waterfalls in catching a pass behind his back, with pick-up games. The more serious the 1950s. Any information would one hand, and running it in for a be greatly appreciated! Joan Price Garcia (Glacier Park Lodge 1962-65, 76-77) GPF Fundraiser Billie Lott, the wife of former gearjammer and GPF director Leroy Lott, is generously donating prints of her watercolor painting of St. Mary Lake to raise funds for the Glacier Park Foundation. The prints are available for a donation of $100 (tax deductible to the extent permitted by law). They can be ordered by mail from GPF (Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415).

JOIN THE GLACIER PARK FOUNDATION All friends of Glacier Park are invited to join the Glacier Park Foundation. Membership includes a subscription to The Inside Trail and the right to vote for directors. Please download a membership form from our Web Site (www. glacierparkfoundation.org) or send your name, address, phone number, and park experience to Glacier Park Foundation, Box 15641, Minneapolis, MN 55415.

An annual membership in the Foundation costs $10. A “Friend of the Park” membership costs $25 annually, cumulating to a Lifetime membership in ﬁve installments. A Lifetime membership paid in one installment costs $100.

The Glacier Park Foundation is a § 501(c)(3) nonproﬁt corporation. Contributions are tax deductible to the extent permitted by law.

(Panorama by Christine Baker)

20 � Winter 2005 � The Inside Trail