TheVolume 46,Arête Winter 2017

Ski Guiding in The North A World without InfoEx Page 26

Land of Fire & Ice Ski Touring in Russia Page 28 A Hiking Traverse The Dolomites of Italy Page 32

Near Miss in the Simpson Control Paths Page 42 Contents Editorial Features President’s Perspective 4 Ski Guiding in The North 26 Tucker Talk 4 The Land of Fire and Ice - Ski Touring in Russia 28 A Hiking Traverse through the Dolomites of Italy 32 News Ottalie's Adventure 36 Rescue at Cherry Bowl 40 Canadian & Ski Program Update 6 Technical Director’s Report 10 Near Miss Reviewing Conduct Review 12 - Simpson Control Paths, Kootenay Park 42 Professional Practices Committee Report 14 - Mount Aberdeen, Banff Park 45 Bylaw Changes 14 Not Receiving ACMG Emails? 15 Technical ACMG Partnership Program Update 16 Arc'teryx Procline & G3 Findr 102 Reviews 46 Continuing Professional Development Report 14 CLIMB. Osprey Talon 33 Pack Review 48 ACMG Scholarship News 18 SKI. Julbo Aero Sunglass Review 50 Spotlight on ACMG Members Member Updates For ski alpinists, a boot that climbs as ACMG Member Profile - Madeleine Martin-Preney 20 well as it skis. Precise climbing agility Diapers and Vows 52 and elite ski performance in the same boot. New Mountain , Honourary Members and Changes in ACMG Membership 53 The new Procline Carbon Lite boot. Distinguished Service Awards 22 ACMG Officers, Directors, Advisors, Staff and Committees 54

The Arête “ are the cathedrals where I practice my religion” MOUNTAIN - Anatoli Boukreev

PERFORMANCE Editor-in-Chief: Shaun King EYEWEAR Editorial Consultants: Mary Clayton, Peter Tucker, Marc Piché Editorial Policy The Arêteattempts to print every submission believed to be of interest to the ACMG membership including items that challenge the Association to examine its actions or direction. Ar- ticles containing insulting or defamatory sections will be edited or not published at all. Technical articles are subject to review by the Technical Committee. Article submissions and advertising information Proud Partner Submission guidelines outlined on the ACMG members website. Submit articles and ads to [email protected]

Cover photo: Nearing the summit of Icefall Peak in the . Photo: Larry Dolecki

The Arête 2 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 3 The Arête Editorial Talk of culture also arose in the member/board roundtable transparency and public accountability. Not that long ago, we President’s Perspective that followed the AGM in Canmore. Issues of gender equal- were a pretty CTW (circle-the-wagons) organization which likely By Marc Ledwidge ity, bullying, impact of shift stacking and substance abuse were would not have stood up to government or public scrutiny in the raised as something the guiding industry needs to shine a light face of a big wreck. We have certainly come a long way, and from The ACMG has a board of directors and if of this is to prioritize our goals as we simply cannot achieve ev- on. The ski guiding season is short and quality guides are in what I hear, we still have some matters to tackle. you go to the website, you can find out who erything we would like to in a short time frame. This plan is demand by employers, so it makes some economic sense for So how do we continue to move forward? The most powerful they are. So, who cares? Really, after three not complete at the time of writing but we expect to finalize members to try to pack in as many shifts as possible. But what is way is to teach ourselves to be open to seeing ourselves the way years on the board, I am still trying to figure it by year’s end or early 2017. Near the top of the list on the the impact of fatigue on critical decision-making? Under Heli- others see us. First, you need to believe that transparency is, on out what my role is at times. I therefore do strategic plan will be sorting out how to document incidents in Cat ’s leadership, the industry is beginning to ask hard balance, a good thing. The aviation and health care industries not expect most of the membership to be clear a non-punitive way so as to provide learning opportunities and questions about its cultural role in these matters. Language and have demonstrated this, but don’t take my word for it, check it on it and will forgive them if they don’t even transparency with what we do as guides. This strategy must re- practices. out yourself. Next we need to learn the skills to give and take know who the director is that represents their spect employer’s rights and the constraints that they have. Also, Cultural norms develop over time for reasons both good and feedback gracefully, and understand how to enter difficult con- membership category. If you have issues or high on the list is engaging with Thompson Rivers University to sinister. Baseball players who hit .400 over a season are consid- versations without thinking that you somehow have to emerge concerns though, anything at all, I would urge you to contact any deal with the ever increasing pressures for guide training courses. ered to be legendary, but they have failed to get on base six times the winner. The ACMG is working hard to provide these and of us. I know I have brought this up before but often, we only Some of the challenges include, expansion across the country to out of ten. The guiding culture, however, pretty much stipulates other communication training in CPDs. We are also looking at hear about issues through the grapevine. It would be better to the east, instructor training, and the issues associated with main- that we have to bat 1000. We tend not to speak openly about developing a core course that teaches these foundation skills early hear directly from you as this will give us a better chance to deal taining a competent instructor pool. our mistakes because we are deemed to be the experts and don’t in one’s guiding or instructing career. We are also introducing with it. Lastly, I would like to thank the outgoing directors for all the want the public to lose confidence in us. Although it’s faulty new and innovative ways of helping one another learn – things The famous American Express Trademark says; “Membership volunteer time they have dedicated to working for you. Thumbs reasoning, it’s understandable. Less understandable is why gen- such as the member/board roundtable and the Wisdom Council. has its privileges”. As ACMG members, we also have privileges. up to Sylvia Forest, Nathan Dahl and Rich Haywood. Please wel- der inequality still exists. Clearly it’s not about a talent differen- Finally, we need to constantly hold the mirror up to ourselves and As professionals, it is much more than just access to discounts come the new members of your board of directors: Chris Kaipio tial – take a look around at the amazingly capable women at all inquire whether our cultural norms are healthy or if they’re start- with pro-deals and/or group insurance rates. Membership in the (Director-Hiking Guides), James Madden (Director-Mountain levels in our association. The inequality exists because that’s the ing to resemble that bucket of fulminating yoghurt. ACMG also carries obligations such as adherence to a code of Guide at Large), and Madeleine Martin-Preney (Director-Ap- way the culture of a traditionally male-dominated industry has Up for the journey? I hope you’ll walk with me as there’s lots conduct, a scope of practice and professional demeanour that is prentice Guides). Please also welcome your new Vice-President developed. Language and practices. more to come! The problem with cultural norms is that they rarely adapt sometimes difficult to define. When your board meets in person and West Coast Director, Ross Berg. Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg to changing landscapes on their own. About a dozen years ago, or by email, we often wrestle with how best to define and manage Have a great safe winter. Creek, AB. these obligations. the ACMG embarked on a process of creating structures and At our recent board meetings this fall, we spent a full day to tightening/clarifying/codifying policies in order to increase devise our strategic plan for the next 3 years. A key component Marc Ledwidge is the ACMG President and lives in Banff, AB. Tucker Talk By Peter Tucker

When I managed Mountain Equipment Co- In recent weeks, at our AGM, at various CPDs and in di- op, one of the questions I used to ask in in- verse conversations, I and others have spoken about culture in a terviews for team leader positions was, “How number of contexts. The Incident Review Committee did some would you describe the corporate culture of hard research and discussion around the ACMG’s role in serious the last organization you worked for?” Over incidents. In terms of reporting, there was talk about how the the years, the range of responses was, as you guiding culture has yet to fully embrace the notion that sharing might imagine, quite varied, but the one that the lessons learned from an incident only helps to improve pro- stands out the most for me was, “Kind of fessional practices. In addition to looking at some infrastructure like a tub of yoghurt left out in the sun for a that would make reporting easy, the board is examining the op- week”. After the candidate explained a little more, I could under- tion of mandating conduct reviews whenever there is a fatality or stand why she had decided to leave. life-threatening injury in order to both learn from the incident Culture is defined in a wide variety of ways, everything from and determine whether the member involved needs to be held the collective manifestation of human intellectual achievement accountable. While these types of self-examination are standard to the cultivation of bacteria in a nutrient-rich medium (like yo- practice in many self-regulating professions, it may not be such ghurt). Tracy Rekart, the amazing lady who has been providing an easy sell to all members of the ACMG. We definitely lead the CPDs to help ACMG members better understand and approach way in the guiding world when it comes to information sharing difficult conversations, suggests that there are three interlocking and we have taken some ground in learning from one another’s principles: purpose, language and practices, with the latter two mishaps (CPD case studies, voluntary reporting on the Infor- being the ones that are most visible to the outer world. What we malex, etc.) but I believe the path to full transparency still has say and how we behave are indicative of the nature of the culture some internal landmines. we have developed.

The Arête 4 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 5 The Arête News Incident Reporting on CMSG Courses Despite these challenges, it is appropriate for the CMSG to seek Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide ways to enhance how it communicates incidents and “operational The Adventure Studies Department at Thompson Rivers University lessons” to the guiding community and the ACMG membership. Program Update is responsible for the delivery and conduct of courses and exams at Especially as most CMSG courses take place in relevant terrain and standards set by the ACMG. In this context the CMSG Program situations and because the ACMG membership has a vested inter- By Dwayne Congdon strives to follow an “operational approach” during the conduct of est in how guide training is conducted. Potential improvements Thanks courses; this includes how incidents (or near misses) are reported. In include: the CMSG the goal of incident reporting is to model best practice for The listed individuals and businesses provided operational support for the Ski Guide certificate and the listed climbing similar types of guiding operations. Key aspects of incident reporting • Creating clear guidelines for when and how incidents from CSMG facilities generously provided their venue for at least one Climbing Gym Instructor course over the past year. This sup- in the CMSG Program are listed here: courses are shared: port is critical to the successful conduct of Guide Training courses, Ski Guide exams, and the Climbing Gym • On the Informalex Instructor Program. • Once the incident has been dealt with the instructor shares relevant • As case histories to the ACMG membership information with other CMSG groups (and guides) operating in the region. • In publications, such as The Arête. Ski Guide Stream Climbing Gym Instructor Program • The instructor or course leader reports the incident to the CMSG Co- • Making incident reporting a higher priority topic when reporting to Bruce Miller (Lake O´Hara Lodge) Mount Royal University Climbing Gym – Calgary, AB ordinator or TRU supervisors as soon as practical. the ACMG Charlie Locke ( Ski Resort) Boulderz Climbing Centre – Toronto, ON • All course participants are briefed on the incident. • Providing more information about “operational lessons” or changes to CMSG course content or procedures that result from incidents Revelstoke Mountain Resort The Rock Oasis – Toronto, ON • Relevant information is forwarded to instructors and students on other • Inviting ACMG members to comment on how the CMSG responds Sutton Place Hotel Elevation Place – Canmore, BC CMSG courses operating in other regions (usually this is done by the CMSG coordinator). to incidents Whistler Heli-skiing The Boulders Climbing Gym – Victoria, BC • Recommendations and (when necessary) changes to operating proce- Enhancing how the CSMG reports incidents will support a pro- Whistler Blackcomb Wilson Climbing Centre, University of – Edmonton, BC dures are implemented as soon as practical. fessional and open attitude towards incident reporting and sharing Selkirk Tangiers Heli-skiing Climb Base5 Climbing Gym – Coquitlam, BC • Incidents in the Ski certificates are reported to industry platforms such the critical lessons that have been learned and it will benefit the Great Canadian Heli-skiing The Calgary Climbing Centre - Calgary, AB as the Infoex. CMSG Program by exposing the Program to more solutions from the guiding community. CMH Revelstoke, Adamants, Bugaboos Junction Climbing Centre – London, ON • If there is an injury or significant potential for injury the instructor and Alpine Helicopters Ground Up Climbing Centre – Squamish, ON / or student submit a detailed report to the CMSG Coordinator. Silver King Helicopters Northern Rockies Recreation Centre - Fort Nelson, BC • Notable incidents are recorded on guides meeting forms and course Eastern Hiking Guide Courses Arrow Helicopters reports. A hiking guide course was held in Lake Placid, New York, from May RWDI Engineers (Environmental Services) • After each course students are also invited to anonymously report incidents. 24-June 1, 2016. The instructors found the Adirondack Mountains 2016 Guide Exam and Climbing Instructor Pass Rates • The CMSG program maintains a data base of notable course incidents. provided excellent terrain for meeting the course objectives. An Assistant Hiking Guide course has been scheduled for Lake Placid • Bi-annual summary of notable incidents and changes to operating pro- Pass rates are posted below to allow ACMG members to monitor how effectively the CMSG Program is preparing students to meet cedures submitted to the TRU Adventure Department faculty. from May 23-31, 2017; dates for an eastern Hiking Guide exam are ACMG standards. still pending. • A summary of notable incidents is included with the annual CMSG report to the ACMG. 2016 2015 2014 CMSG Instructors Qualification Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Candidates Pass Rate Challenges and Opportunities The Canadian Mountain and Ski Guide Program would like to Apprentice Ski Guide 27 82% 24 87% 27 85% Historically incidents on CMSG courses have not often been reported thank and acknowledge the following individuals for their roles in the following programs: Ski Guide 33 82% 21 76% 36 67% on “external” platforms (such as the Informalex). Nor have “lessons” and changes to course procedures necessarily been well communi- Rock, Ski, and Alpine Certificates Apprentice Hiking Guide 32 97 % 31 93 % 16 100 % cated to the guiding community. Several factors contribute to this: Chris Miller Matt Peter Kirsten Knechtel Hiking Guide 14 93 % 9 89 % 15 100 % Greg Golovach Marc Piché Dan Madell Apprentice Rock Guide 22 82 % 15 67 % 9 100 % • Instructors are expected to maintain the integrity of the assessment Keith Reid Helen Sovdat Marc Ledwidge process. Jasmin Caton Scott Flavell Conny Amelunxen Rock Guide 4 25 % 6 100 % 1 100 % Larry Dolecki Jeff Relph Mark Bender • Instructors are required to ensure student privacy in terms of the stu- Todd Craig Rich Marshall Sylvian Hebert Apprentice Alpine Guide 6 83 % 6 50 % 12 83 % dent’s exam performance and evaluation. Hias Ahrens Andre Ike Sarah Heuniken Alpine Guide 9 67 % 8 75 % 5 40 % • Like many other guiding companies or institutions, the CMSG has an Grant Meekins Craig McGee Jesse de Montigny internal incident reporting process; reporting on external platforms like Evan Stevens Mike Adolph Steve Holeczi Top Rope Climbing Instructor 32 100% 31 100% 16 100% the Informalex is not a “standard” procedure. Todd Guyn Derek Wilding Colin Moorhead Ross Berg Climbing Gym Instructor 1 85 (ytd) 85% 117 96% 80 90% • The CMSG’s first responsible is to the wellbeing of students and in- Climbing Gym Instructor 2 11 91% 75% 11 100% structors; given limited time and resources the needs of others agencies or groups are not necessarily a priority. Hiking Guide Certificate Total 275 (ytd) 275 235 • After each guiding assignment (and especially after an incident) instruc- Peter Amann Matt Reynolds Helen Sovdat tors have limited time to complete multiple duties and tasks. Hence Sylvia Forest Steve Ludwig Peter Oxtoby Bjarne Baek Félix Camiré The above totals are for exams only and does not represent participation on training courses. reporting or posting to other platforms can become a lower priority.

The Arête 6 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 7 The Arête Climbing Instructors (TRCI, CGI) niques and client care on all types of terrain. Students who fail the Scott McKay Andre Ike Sarah Hueniken movement screening are not allowed to attend an apprentice exam Kinley Aitken Chris Adshade Andrew Karlowsky until the standard has been demonstrated and in some cases may Justin Dwyer Cort McElroy Andrew McBurney have to repeat part of their training*. This can be a frustrating situ- Lloyd King Chris Miller Sebastian Powell ation - it delays the student’s development as an Apprentice Guide Derek Wilding Colin Moorhead and result in higher training costs. Unfortunately, it is not practical for the CMSG Program to New CMSG Instructors confirm applicant movement standards prior to being accepted into Guide Training (Rock, Ski, Alpine). Hence applicants who are The following ACMG members are being developed as CMSG in- unsure they meet the movement standard are strongly encouraged structors. The development process includes observing on courses to screen their movement skills prior to applying. and demonstrating instructional and coaching skills with supervi- sion from an experienced instructor. Movement screening only takes place during scheduled Guide Training courses; hence early movement screening for rock and al- Darek Glowacki (Ski Guide Certificate) pine is done a year before starting Guide Training. John Furneaux (Rock, Alpine and Ski Guide Certificates) Guide Training Skiing applicants can typically screen 5-6 Mike Trehearne (Alpine and Rock Guide Certificates) months before applying. Interested GTS applicants can screen their Evan Stevens (Rock, Alpine and Ski Guide Certificates) movement skills on Jan. 20, 2017 at Whistler or Kicking Horse Fred Amyot (Hiking Guide Certificate) Resorts. Sylvia Forest (Hiking Guide Certificate) Of note to GTS applicants; once accepted, applicants who Jane Whitney (Hiking Guide Certificate) have successfully “pre-screened” in the same year are not required Jeremy McDougall (Climbing Gym Instructor program) to screen again during GTS-Mechanized. Contact the CMSG pro- gram office for further details. Kinley Aitken (Top Rope Climbing Instructor program) *CGI and TRCI students who failed the movement assessment still complete the exam but are required to have their movement Movement Skills Screening skills re-assessed at a later time. Students are required to demonstrate minimum movement stan- dards during Guide Training (Rock, Alpine, Ski). These standards Dwayne Congdon is an ACMG Mountain Guide and coordinator provide an important measure of safety during courses and exams of the CMSG Program at Thompson Rivers University in Kamloops, and ensures the student is ready to learn and apply guiding tech- BC.

ASK QUESTIONS TRY SOMETHING NEW STEP EXCEED EXPECTATIONS OUTSIDE

The Arête 8 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 9 Indulge in fabled Kootenay cold smoke through theThe eyes Arête of Jasmin Caton (ACMG) and Evan Stevens (AMGA), earning every turn with the new, patented SCALA climbing skins. GENUINEGUIDEGEAR.COM/LESSONS News International Science Workshop Technical Director’s Report (ISSW) By Marc Piché The ISSW was held in Breckenridge, Colorado at the beginning of October. The conference was a great success with over 1100 Via Ferrata Training and Certi- Thompson Rivers University / Canadian practitioners and researchers in attendance. fication Program Mountain & Ski Guide Program In recent years, the ISSW organizing committee has worked hard to align the event more closely with its mission of Merging We sent our draft proposal to all established The ACMG is continuing to look at ways to support the CMSG Theory and Practice. Several ACMG Members either presented via ferrata operators last spring. Due to the program towards continuing improvements in instructor hiring, or were involved in panel discussions this year from the practi- busy operating season, feedback was slow to training, management and retention. We are looking at a vari- tioner’s perspective. come with the last operator having replied at ety of options and hope to roll out some new programs in the the end of October. We will review all of the next year. All papers and proceedings from previous ISSWs can be feedback and revise our proposal as necessary. Once this is done found at www.issw.net/index.php. I assume the proceedings it will be reviewed by the rest of the technical committee before from the 2016 ISSW will be posted soon. we send it to the board for final approval. Once this is approved, Arc’teryx Mountain Conditions Report App The next ISSW will be held in Innsbruck, Austria in the fall we will work with Thompson Rivers University to establish the The MCR app has been in use since last February and has been of 2018, followed by Fernie, BC in 2020. curriculum and desired learning outcomes. This should put us quite successful. I am waiting on an updated set of analytics for in a strong position to be able to run a beta course next spring. the summer from Arc’teryx. It has recently been launched in the Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Direc- US by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) tor lives in Canmore, AB. and Arc’teryx is currently negotiating a launch with the British Technical Manuals Mountain Guides. After much discussion about the delivery format, the Climbing Avalanche Canada, Arc’teryx and the ACMG have been Gym Instructor manual is now complete. Having weighed many working together in an effort to make posting simultaneously different formatting options it was decided that the manual to both the Mountain Information Network (MIN) and MCR should be made available in two different ways. CMSG students easier for our members. There should be a mechanism in place will receive a branded thumb drive with all of the various manual to automatically share relevant MCR posts to the MIN before files included. There will also be download options of various the new year. sizes, some of which will have the videos embedded and oth- ACMG Partner, Avatech (soon to be Mountain Hub) has ers will have links to the videos online in order to keep the file developed a similar, albeit much more feature filled and com- size smaller. This allows for the greatest variety of options with plex, year-round product that was set to launch on Novem- regards to type of device being used and storage capacity. Deci- ber 1st. Arc’teryx, Mountain Hub, Avalanche Canada and the sions remain to be made regarding ease of access and payment ACMG will be meeting during the AGM weekend in an effort structures for members and public. to determine if collaboration will be possible in the future. We are currently working towards completing the Top Rope Climbing Instructor manual this winter. Efforts towards the completion of the Mountain Guide manual are ongoing. Russian Mountain Guides Association This project continues to grow despite funding challenges due to Apprentice Guide Timelines the failing economy in Russia. Keith Reid recently ran a restruc- tured climbing training course in the Mount Elbrus area and we This policy continues to keep us busy with numerous requests are hoping to run another avalanche training course this winter. for extensions and the management of a handful of cases where members did not meet the timelines. Executive Director Peter Tucker and I revisited all of our ini- HeliCat Canada (HCC) tiatives to remind, alert and warn members of their upcoming The HCC AGM was held in Nelson, BC this September. Some deadlines and I believe the ACMG is being fair and diligent on of the main topics included worker safety, fatigue and substance this matter. At this time we have only one member who did not abuse in the guiding world. These are issues that we have been meet the timelines for the Alpine Guide exam and we are cur- talking about for quite some time in our industry and it was rently working with three members to extend their Ski Guide made clear at this meeting that employers are looking to the exam deadlines to spring of 2017. guiding organizations (ACMG and CSGA) to include these topics in their training programs. Variances Peter Tucker and I continue to work closely with HCC on a variety of projects. They represent the largest employers of our There have been no new variance requests for this coming win- members and it has been exciting to see this relationship grow. ter. For details on existing variances please see the previous re- L – R: ACMG guides Alex Geary, MB Board, Marc Piché and Daren Vonk on the summit of Bugaboo Spire on August 29th - The 100th port and check the variance page on the ACMG website. anniversary of the first ascent by Conrad Kain! Self Portrait

The Arête 10 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 11 The Arête News

rationale, and the matter is considered closed. If, Reviewing Conduct Review on the other hand, it is determined that a potential By Rod Gibbons breach DOES exist, the member being complained of is notified through what is called an “Invitation Recently I have heard some complaints about members to decide, what is or is not within the scope of the code to Respond”. Along with a complete copy of the the ACMG conduct review process. Given and its preamble. That is where our training becomes vital. complaint, this document lets the member know that our membership has grown by leaps The code applies to members ONLY when they are acting in a complaint has been received, who filed it, who and bounds in recent years, I have come to their professional capacities. While we may disagree with what is on the PRC, which point(s) of the code are in the conclusion that it is long overdue to try they’ve said or done on their private time, it isn’t within the scope potential breach and a timeline by which they must to spread the word about what the “conduct of a professional association to sanction people for their behav- respond with their side of the story. review process” is all about. I am setting a goal iours when they are not acting, promoting or representing them- Once the response is in the hands of the PRC for myself to share something with all of you selves as members. they begin their investigation, looking at both sides twice a year in The Arête. This is at least a starting point to help us of the story, witness accounts if any, ACMG poli- all understand the process and its goals. How Do I File a Complaint? cies and procedures, the code, etc. When the PRC has reached a consensus, one of three things can Process Goals First, I would recommend reading the code of conduct and com- happen. paring it to the behaviour you will be alleging in your complaint. 1. They may dismiss the complaint if all the Conduct review is one of the cornerstones of being a professional If you still feel your complaint is valid then I would recommend evidence clearly indicates there could not have been organization. The public and our clients expect it and we as mem- running it by someone like Executive Director Peter Tucker or a breach of the code. bers of the ACMG should demand it. As professional members, another trusted confidante. Peter is not only the process advisor we should hold ourselves to a set of high standards and expect our for the committee, as a non-member he doesn’t “have a dog in the 2. They may determine that a potential breach fellow members to do the same. fight” and is one of the most level headed men I know. He has of the code has taken place and propose a remedy to the member being complained of. Historically The fact is we are all human and because of that, mistakes can helped me too many times to count. If, after that, you still want these remedies can cover many things including, and do happen occasionally. At other times we just “didn’t know to move your complaint forward, send it in writing to the chair but not limited to, letters of apology, stopping the we’re not allowed to do this or that“. Because of this we need a of the conduct review committee at: [email protected]. The com- behavior that got them there and sensitivity train- transparent but confidential process for assessment and learning. plaint should include: who you are; who the complaint is against; ing. If the member agrees to the proposed remedy, That is the most fundamental concept of the conduct review pro- details of the allegations; which point of the code you feel has been the matter is considered closed once all the con- cess: to educate. Although the end result may be punitive, educa- breached; and contact info for any witnesses. ditions of the remedy have been met. However, if tion is the primary goal. Through this process, we become better Here are a couple of points to note. Once you file the com- the member does not agree to the remedy or has professionals. plaint you will be notified of the receipt of the complaint. That not complied with it within the required timeline, may or may not be the last time you are contacted until the review all parties are notified that a full hearing will be is completed. However, it is critical to know that you, the com- Who is the Conduct Review Committee? convened. plainant, are the only one who can stop the process once it has The committee is made up of people just like you and me. Some started. This is done by notifying the chair that you want to with- 3. They may determine that the serious nature of are seasoned ACMG members, some are less experienced mem- draw the complaint. Once the notification is received, the review the complaint warrants a full hearing immediately. bers and some are members of the public. Just as with our board stops, the necessary parties are notified and the matter is closed. Although I have just hit the main points, clearly of directors, public oversight is critical to ensuring our decisions this is a complex process that follows the principles are non-biased and well-reasoned. Our committee is a bit different What Happens After a Complaint is Received? of natural justice. In the next edition, I will talk in that we don’t meet every few months to talk shop. Rather we about formal hearings. The members of the com- are a pool of volunteers who make ourselves available as needed Once a complaint is received by the chair, a preliminary review mittee take this task very seriously and do it on when a complaint is received. As a requirement, we have all under- committee (PRC) is struck. The pool is notified (without any de- behalf of all members and the public. I would ask gone legal training and retrain every two years. We are all bound tails) to determine who may be available. Remember everyone is that when you or someone else complains about by confidentiality regarding information learned in any conduct a volunteer and with jobs, families, etc. and although there are this process, please consider a few things. The fact review. You can see a list of committee members on the ACMG many in the pool only certain people are available at any given that the outcome of a review was not what you or website or at the end of each edition of The Arête. time. The PRC is usually made up of three people: two ACMG they hoped for doesn’t make the whole thing bo- members and one member of the public. On occasion, for simple gus. Please consider that there are three other level issues, it may consist of only one. headed people trying to look objectively at all sides of the issue, • During those 11 years, the committee has received and reviewed 33 The “Code” complaints. All of them have been resolved at the preliminary level. Once the chair has narrowed the pool, that group receives not just yours. Also, remember that the process and the code are • You can find more information on this process on the ACMG public The ACMG code of conduct is the key to this process. It outlines more information about the complaint to determine if there is any constantly evolving and, as such, please feel free to send recom- website under Public Accountability. the breadth of accepted professional behaviour. Without the code, conflict of interest or bias. Once that is determined, the final three mendations for changes if you believe something is wrong or miss- there would be nothing to use as a yardstick against which to mea- are notified, a chair is designated and the PRC gets underway. ing. If you have a question, concern or complaint about the code Because of the work of the Incident Investigation Committee, sure an alleged breach. the Board is currently examining the possibility of holding manda- The PRC first reviews the allegations and must determine or process please email the chair or Peter so we can continue to tory conduct reviews whenever a member has led a group where The code is a living document and from time to time it does whether there has been, in their opinion, a potential breach of make this process better. there has been a fatality or life-threatening injury. Stay tuned for change. There are some proposed changes to the code before the the code. The word “potential” is critical as they are not actually more on this. board currently. In a nutshell, the committee can only compare deciding whether a breach has taken place. If, in their consensus A Few Facts: alleged behaviour against our code and its preamble PERIOD! opinion, there is NO possibility of a breach then the complaint • The CMGA has had this more modern conduct review process in Rod Gibbons, an ACMG Mountain Guide and the Conduct Review While this is a simple statement it is not always easy for committee is dismissed. The complainant is notified of this decision and the place for 11 years. Committee Chair, lives in Invermere, BC. The Arête 12 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 13 The Arête Special Resolution 2 – This gives confidence to the public that we are exercising some Professional Practices Committee Report Good Character Attestation care regarding who may be a member of our association. We By Nathan Dahl will establish guidelines around which criminal activities would Resolved that Bylaw 28 be repealed and replaced by: preclude membership. This spring, the Professional Practices Com- Avalanche Canada courses, Interpretive Guides Association Conditions of Membership Operationally, existing members would just need to check a box at dues time that says that they haven’t been convicted of mittee delivered its third audit to another courses), there is no single method for maintaining or enhanc- 28. All members are deemed to have agreed to abide by and a felony or sanctioned by a professional association that deals 20 randomly selected members and is cur- ing the currency of one’s knowledge in a specific area of prac- be bound by the provisions of the bylaws, and the regulations, with activities similar to ours since the last time they paid dues. rently conducting its fourth audit. As previ- tice. The required technical skills are unique to one’s practice, rules and policies of the Association, and ously, the selected members were asked to and can only be adequately determined by the individual. If New and reinstating members will need to send an affidavit stat- a. a new applicant for membership or an applicant for reinstate- ing that they have never been convicted of a felony nor been submit records of their professional practice you are uncertain whether a course meets the ACMG CPD ment in the Association must provide evidence of having good sanctioned by a professional association that deals with activities and continuing professional development requirements for your membership stream consult the Con- character and reputation by submitting: for the past two years as well as a copy of tinuing Professional Development document on the ACMG similar to ours. So we are not looking into the past of existing i. a statement by the applicant as to whether the applicant has members, but we are asking for historical affidavits for new or their current First Aid certificate. Each file was then reviewed website www.acmg.ca/02member/governance/cpd.asp or send previously been disciplined by a regulatory body responsible reinstating ones. by two members of the Professional Practices Committee. If all me an e-mail and we can discuss if it seems appropriate. for the certification of mountain guides or climbing instruc- conditions of membership were met, the member received an tors, and I would encourage all members to familiarize them- Resolution passed "Unconditional Pass". If one or more of the conditions of mem- selves with the Professional Practice document, which can be ii. a statement by the applicant as to whether the applicant has In favour: 62 bership were not met, the member received a "Provisional Pass". found online at the ACMG member site. With the help of ever pleaded guilty or been found guilty of a criminal offence If a provisional pass was issued, the committee worked with the the Executive and Technical Directors, we recently revised the in Canada or an offence of a similar nature in a jurisdiction Opposed: 4 member to bring their CPD, Professional Practice, or first aid document to clarify some ambiguities and make the style con- outside Canada for which the applicant has not been par- Abstain: 1 training up to standard. gruent with other ACMG documents. Furthermore, under the doned, and To date, 59 members of the association from all streams ‘Downloads’ tab on the ACMG member site, you will find the iii. any other relevant evidence required by the Association. Peter Tucker is the ACMG Executive Director living in Bragg have been audited. At the completion of the fourth audit this Professional Practice recording form that is sent to members b. an applicant at the time of membership renewal must disclose to Creek, AB. winter, that number will reach 79 members. Of the 20 members when they are selected for an audit. It is good practice to down- the Association whether since the previous membership renewal who were selected for the audit in the spring, 17 passed without load a copy of this Excel spreadsheet and update it as you at- i. the applicant has been disciplined by a regulatory body re- conditions, two chose to become inactive members, and one re- tend CPD sessions and take work. This practice will keep your sponsible for the certification of mountain guides or climbing ceived a provisional pass. records accurate and eliminate potential hassle should you be instructors, or There are several reasons that one might not pass an selected for an audit in the future. ii. the applicant has pleaded guilty or been found guilty of a Not Receiving ACMG audit. Failure to provide a valid First Aid Certificate, insufficient If you have any questions or comments about the audit criminal offence in Canada or an offence of a similar nature professional development, insufficient professional practice, or process, don't hesitate to get in touch with me at pro-practic- in a jurisdiction outside Canada for which the applicant has Emails? sufficient but inappropriate professional practice are all valid [email protected]. not been pardoned, and grounds for not passing. There is also some confusion as to what iii. any other relevant evidence required by the Association. Members: Are you feeling left out? Excluded? You’ve learned af- Nathan Dahl, Chair of the Professional Practices Committee, can count towards CPD hours. While some training is relatively terward about an ACMG event that you missed, or your fellow is an ACMG Hiking Guide living in Canmore, AB guides received pro deal info or an invitation that you did not? straightforward (ACMG refreshers, CMSG training programs, Rationale: All self-regulating professions do some due dili- There must be something wrong with the ACMG email system! gence around ensuring their members are of good character. Well, here’s the thing: the ACMG gets emails bounced back Bylaw Changes fairly often due to outdated member email ad- By Peter Tucker dresses. The only way your email address gets updated is if YOU DO IT. So please, take a In the months preceding the Annual General Meeting, the tion may apply for and be granted admission to the Association minute, sign in to the member website at Board of Directors ratified two special resolutions. This kind of as an Associate Member. http://acmg.ca/02member/memberlogin.asp and make sure your primary email address and resolution is proposed when it involves a change to association Rationale: The previous bylaw opened Associate Member- other contact info is accurate. bylaws and, according to our existing bylaws, may be voted on ship to all organizations or individuals, which created some un- only by Mountain Guides. clarity between Associate members and potential partners. The This is also important if you want to One month prior to the AGM, the resolutions were sent to new bylaw ensures there is no overlap between this membership post to the MCR – both email addresses all ACMG Mountain Guides for an electronic vote. Below are category and our partnership program. It is our intention to must match exactly. Finally, please check your the two resolutions, their rationale and the voting results. Note offer non-profit organizations such as the CAA, ACC, AvCan, “Junk” email box. If you find ACMG emails that electronic voting allowed for more than twice as many Wilderness Tourism Association, Backcountry Lodges of BC, there, tell your email program to add “@acmg. Mountain Guides to vote than if we had just voted at the AGM. Heli-Cat Canada etc free Associate membership. ca” to your “safe” list.

Special Resolution 1 – Thanks, and happy communicating! Electronic vote sent to all Mountain Guides on September 15 Associate Membership Resolution passed Resolved that Bylaw 26 be repealed and replaced by: -Elaine Powers In favour: 66 ACMG Administrative Assistant Associate Membership Opposed: 0 26. A non-profit or not-for-profit organization that, in the Abstain: 1 opinion of the Board, shares the goals and values of the Associa-

The Arête 14 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 15 The Arête News

Retail price on this hat would be $61, but thanks to our Lo- area of the Eric Harvie ACMG Partnership Program Update gan ACMG partnership with Arc’teryx, we’re able to offer this for (main) theatre saw lots only $30 including tax to ACMG members! of folks. Thanks to the By Ken Bélanger Available in nautic grey in two sizes: S-M (55-57cm) & L-XL ACMG members who (58-60cm). Arc’teryx hat sizing chart staffed our booth and got In 2016, the ACMG partnership program PARTNERSHIP NEWS to see some films in re- should bring in six-figure revenue to our Limited quantities, and only available for purchase at 2016 was the fourth year of the G3 Early Bird ACMG Giveback turn! Our logo and sup- association for the first time. These funds ACMG events. Program. $7011 raised from the special advance pro purchase port will be displayed at allow us to offer increased services and ben- pricing were donated to the ACMG for development of the the festival tour over the efits while controlling dues. CMSG instructor development program and other initiatives. next year in thousands of The ACMG and its members are power- locations around North ful centres of influence in the international America. outdoor recreation world, particularly in the Arc’teryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro Jacket winter arena. The ACMG partnership program seeks to lever- We still have some Arc’teryx ACMG Gore-Tex 3L jackets for A huge thank you goes out to our Logan Partner MEC for rec- age this influence by creating partnerships with leading brands. sale in every size except medium in both men’s and women’s. ognising the ACMG as one of their three “Alpine Allies” at the These partnerships involve cash, products, co-branding and Purchase in person only at ACMG events for only $150 + tax!! MEC Mountain Mixer! cross-marketing to help the ACMG reach its mandate of Pro- tecting the Public Interest in Mountain Travel. By the time you read this, the ACMG will have attended the MEC Snowfests in Edmonton, Calgary and Vancouver. We have An incredible benefit of these partnerships and relationships a space reserved at both the Banff and Lake Louise Staying Alive is the expanding the pro purchase (PP) program. Lately there avalanche nights and Kananaskis Country’s Avalanche Awareness have been a few incidents of misuse. We will take a hardline Day in January. on this behaviour and may suspend PP privileges for blatant or repeat offenders. Or maybe I’ll just publish their names for all Increasing the public’s awareness of the ACMG is one of our the members to see… Like driving your car, PP is a privilege and key strategic goals. This serves to educate the public on what can be revoked. we do, and the high standards at which we operate. Ultimately this translates into more recognition and opportunity for ACMG Arc’teryx ACMG technical cap members. NEW PARTNERSHIPS EVENTS Please welcome the newest ACMG partners! 2016 Annual General Meeting and Events DMM Climbing has proudly manufactured safety hardware in North Wales since 1981. During that time they’ve We debuted a new concept this year: running a used mountain established a reputation for innovation and the production of gear sale on the day before the AGM. 18 ACMG partners dis- premium quality equipment. Their high standards of quality played products to a couple hundred people and ACMG mem- control are reflected in the fact that every day, thousands of bers. In the afternoon, our partners ran clinics highlighting new people around the globe rely on DMM products to safeguard products and advancements that help ACMG members better do their lives. dmmclimbing.com their job. It was a lot of work for the administration team, but we’re pleased with its success and plan on expanding the event for GuideBase is a robust and beautifully-designed booking 2017. platform made uniquely for outdoor guiding and instruction. Our president recognised six new ACMG Mountain Guides It’s free for ACMG members to list their services and trips, you with their IFMGA pins. We awarded a plethora of scholarships pay only when a customer books. This will be a great way to and grants from our partners and funds. expand the reach of your company internationally. guidebase. Once again, we ran our silent auction during the evening so- com cial. All products were donated by our partners. We raised $1545 ACMG exhibitor booth. Photo - Ken Bélanger for the association and members scored some unbelievable deals The Norsemanis an independent specialty store supplying too. XC ski, hiking and climbing gear. When you’re in Calgary, We couldn’t do these events without help from you – the Although we had many members at the AGM events, we drop by and say hello. They’re happy to help ACMG members members. If you have an idea for an event that you’d like to should have even more. This is a fun event to see colleagues and and your guests source gear and with expert fitting and advice. attend to represent the ACMG, then drop me a line at partner- friends, attend CPD sessions, network, get great deals on gear, norsemanoutdoorspecialist.com [email protected]. Arc’teryx ACMG Gore-Tex Pro jacket free food and drinks and most importantly – better understand Lifestyle Financial has been an insurance provider for The ACMG Technical Cap! YOUR association and have a voice in its direction. The ACMG’s list of partners can be found on the back cover of this issue of The Arête. ACMG members for several years. They provide accident & The Escapa hat from Arc’teryx is a technical trucker hat con- sickness insurance services for high risk activities and individu- structed of breathable nylon fabric with a stretch mesh back. 2016 Banff Mountain Film & Book Festival Please support our Partners, as they support the ACMG! als – that’s you ACMG member! We’re working with them to The laminated brim is pliable so it can be rolled or folded easily. For the second year, the ACMG was the sponsor of the Best expand their insurance options at rates that would be unattain- The reflective Arc’teryx logo is offset by the stylish silk screened Ken Bélanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG able elsewhere. lifestylefinancial.ca Guidebook award. The exposure we received from our participa- ACMG logo on the opposite side. tion is fantastic. Our high-profile booth location in the lobby Partnership Coordinator living in Canmore, AB The Arête 16 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 17 The Arête News ACMG Scholarship News By Derek Wilding

Congratulations to the following individuals for being awarded these scholarships in 2016:

Centennial Scholarship ($1000 TRU course subsidy) Darren Farley (Apprentice Ski Guide)

Niccy Code Memorial Scholarship ($1000 cheque) Madeleine Martin-Preney (Apprentice Ski Guide, Assistant Hiking Guide)

Arc’teryx Scholarship ($1500, $1000 and $500 TRU course subsidies) respectively to: Carla Demyen (Ski Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide) Connor Hurley (Apprentice Ski Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide) Rupert Davies (Apprentice Rock Guide)

Arc'teryx Mentorship Fund ($1500 in funded training per recipient) Alison Cardinal (Apprentice Ski Guide, Hiking Guide) Samuel McKoy Apprentice Ski Guide) Mark Herbison (Apprentice Ski Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide)

Arc'teryx Equipment Award ($2000 Arc'teryx equipment credit per recipient) Alison Cardinal (Apprentice Ski Guide, Hiking Guide) Patrick Lindsay (Apprentice Alpine Guide)

Brian Ebert Memorial Fund (Two private exam training days per recipient) Rupert Davies (Apprentice Rock Guide) Monte Johnston (Apprentice Ski Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, Assistant Hiking Guide)

Gougeon Training Fund ($500 TRU course subsidy per recipient) Jonas Hoke (Ski Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide) Maarten Van Haeren (Apprentice Rock Guide, Top Rope Climbing Instructor)

Julbo Scholarship ($500 TRU course subsidy per recipient) Eirik Sharp (Apprentice Ski Guide) Mark Criddle (Apprentice Rock Guide, Climbing Gym Instructor 2)

A big thanks to all our Scholarship providers and committee members. For more info on scholarships and to apply, visit www.acmg.ca/02member/members/scholarships.asp

Derek Wilding, an ACMG Rock Guide and Climbing Gym Instructor 3, lives in Calgary, AB

CS14112016_TNF_ARETE_SUMMIT_SERIES_COLOR.indd 1 2016-11-14 2:22 PM The Arête 18 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 CS14112016_TNF_ARETE_SUMMIT19 SERIES / SIZE: 7.5 X 9.55 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members ACMG Member Profile - Madeleine Martin-Preney By Lenka Stafl with numerous organizations including, Outward Bound Can- ada, Great Canadian Heli-skiing, and Selkirk Mountain Experi- ence to name just a few. Madeleine is a unique soul. She speaks from the heart and encourages real dialogue about what it means to live through and have courage to speak about backcountry accidents. In the shoulder season she has been known to teach avalanche aware- ness courses in grade schools and bravely shares her own close call in an avalanche to promote awareness and learning. I will never forget her first alpine climb… I phoned on a whim and invited her to climb Serpentine Arête in the , car to car in a day. “Sure” she says, “no problem!” At pitch 16, I yell down as an afterthought; “Hey, have you ever chimnneyed?” I hear a high pitched far-away reply: “Nope, but I’ll figure it out“. I can hear her smiling. Her Can-Do, positive attitude has literally carried this lady to new heights in her career in the outdoors. If you ever need a bit more meaning, and spark in your life I would encourage you to share a cup of tea in the mountains with Madeleine! I am delighted to celebrate Madeleine’s glow- ing presence in our community, and feel honored to be able to call her a friend. I look forward to watching Madeleine’s career unfold. Previous page - Madeleine all smiles, and crushing it on Serpentine Arête, Dragontail Peak, . Photos: Lenka Stafl Above - Madeleine overlooks the large terrain surrounding Grand Mountain on the 36 day Selkirk Traverse. Photo: Sam Mckoy Lenka Stafl is an Apprentice Rock Guide living in Canmore, AB

Editor’s Note: Madeleine Martin-Preney is currently an ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide and Assistant Hiking Guide and the new Director-Apprentice Guides from Revelstoke, BC. She is the newest recipient of the Niccy Code Award and has inspired the following words from a fellow guide.

Madeleine is an inspiration. Her beautiful blend of mountain bad-assery, and boundless energy paired with her ability to con- nect in a real way with those around her make her a rare tal- ent. She represents everything that is good about our ACMG NEW community and is a brilliant role model for the young and old alike. Last spring, Madeleine realized her dream of completing AETHER AG the first ever Selkirk Ski Traverse, but for her I know that’s just Tried-and-true, elevated the start of a long list of accomplishments. For backpacking, thru-hikes and alpine expeditions, Madeleine’s formidable mountain skill and appetite for shar- the Aether/Ariel AG™ Series has a pedigree like no ing her love of adventure with others is legendary. Her guests, other pack. This season, we’ve put the bar out of colleagues and students can attest that undertaking outdoor reach by combining Anti-Gravity™ technology with pursuits with this lady is sure to be unforgettable. Whether she’s customizable fit and innovative features to create a carving down a ski slope, or cracking a joke to lighten the mood more capable and comfortable pack for long-haul load on a rainy backpack trip, Madeleine instills a sense of joie-de- carrying on any multi-day excursion. ospreypacks.com vivre that is un-paralleled. Over the years Madeleine has worked

The Arête 20 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 21 7-1/4 x 4-3/8 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members Jon Bezzoli (a.k.a. Colani) – Honourary Member New Mountain Guides, Honourary Member, Nominated by Jeff Boyd and voted unanimously in favour by your Board of Directors! Colani came to Canada in 1974/1975 in search of the white gold with CMH. Not long after that, and Distinguished Service Awards in 1978, he was tasked by Hans Gmoser to run the New Bobbie Burns operation and in 1980 when the new Bobbie Burns Lodge started construction, he became a permanent fixture in the Columbia Valley. He and his wife Margrit, settled on the McMurdo bench south of Golden and raised a family. Colani has been more than just a leader in the heli ski industry. After he left the manager position in the Bobbie Burns, he became the mountain safety manager for CMH. The work he did during that tenure shaped the future of not only CMH but the whole helicopter skiing industry in Canada. In a nutshell, he can be credited with the processes and systems that are in place today that have made the industry much safer. He really is a leader. - ACMG President Marc Ledwidge James Blench – Platinum Distinguished Service Award James was awarded the Platinum Distinguished Service award (highest level) for his more than 26 years of work on the ACMG Technical Committee. His many contributions to the Canadian guid- ing community have come in many forms - educator, mentor, consultant, curriculum developer and many more. Most ACMG and CAA members have benefited directly from James’ hard work. James continues to serve the membership by sharing his wisdom as an active and engaged member of the Technical Committee. - ACMG Techincal Director Marc Piché

Sylvia Forest – Silver Distinguished Service Award Sylvia was the fifth Canadian woman to become a Mountain Guide and has faithfully served on your Board of Directors since 2012. For personal reasons, she is now stepping down from the board, but during her tenure as the Interior Director, she has been engaged as a board member and has also served as the Vice-President for the past two years. She will be dearly missed on the board! - ACMG President Marc Ledwidge

Nathan Dahl – President’s Award L to R: Chic Scott (ACMG Honourary Member & this year’s Patron), Marc Ledwidge (ACMG President), and new MGs Jeff Mitchell, Nathan has been on the Board of Directors as the Hiking Guide Director and is also stepping down Alex Geary, Todd Anthony-Malone, Mike Caswell, and Merrie-Beth Board. Not pictured: Brent Phillips. Photo: Jordy Shepherd for personal reasons. As I mentioned last year at our AGM, Nathan has also taken on the chair of the Professional Practice Committee and plans to continue. He leads a committee that developed The ACC-ACMG Mountain Guides Ball returned to the Châ- to certification can at times feel a little isolated. It can feel like the process by which we perform professional audits on our members. This is a difficult and thorny teau Lake Louise (one of the birthplaces of Canadian moun- you’re out there on your own, trying to go for this big precipice job as no one cherishes receiving the email announcing that they are being audited. I know, because taineering and guiding) for 2016. ACMG Honourary Member and reach this end goal. Then you realize when you finally get I just got one of those! This is a very important component of a self governing association and we Chic Scott was the Patron of the Ball. there that it was never a sole journey and it’s not an individual thank Nathan for getting us there! journey anymore because we are part of an association. Of course the highlight of the Ball is the recognition of the - ACMG President Marc Ledwidge newest ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guides. This year we had Our journey is now about the people we share the moun- six members reach the highest standard of guiding in the world! tains with, the people we educate, the people we mentor who Canada’s 10th woman to achieve Mountain Guide status - are on a similar path, and about bringing our experience and our Linda Heywood - Special Recognition Award Merrie-Beth Board, stepped up to the podium to deliver this knowledge to the table with as much grace as we can. Many people have contributed to the growth and development of the ACMG, mostly volunteers heart warming speech: So whether you are a newly certified Mountain Guide working on our Board of Directors or on committees. However, for nearly 20 years, Linda Heywood “Thank you very much. It’s a great honour to speak on be- [applause], whether you are a seasoned, wise elder, whether it is your first time seeing the mountains, or whether you have has been toiling away behind the scenes creating and evolving the administrative structure, without half of the graduating class of 2016 and to share the stage with which the ACMG would not have become anywhere near as successful as it has. Chic Scott. This is a stand up crew of individuals and I’m very shared in the commitment and passion for many years (as I On the eve of her retirement from the ACMG, we thought it fitting to recognize the value of proud to be a part of them. know many of you have), thank you for helping us celebrate this momentous time.” her many accomplishments with a Special Recognition Award. As the bookkeeper/accountant, she The road to certification is one where we all, on our journey, MB was greeted with warm applause in a standing ovation helped ensure our financial strength. As the member services manager, her uncanny attention to share a lot. As you all know we share sun, we share rain, we detail ensured timely service response and near perfect records. But perhaps most importantly, as the share fresh snow (the highlight) and we share the joy of each while she hugged each of her fellow new Mountain Guides on the stage. long-time first person responder to members and non-members alike, Linda has been a key face and other’s success, and the challenge of each other’s stress. The road voice of the ACMG. This award is so well deserved. - ACMG Executive Director Peter Tucker The Arête 22 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 23 The Arête Spotlight on ACMG Members

Sunrise on the Bugaboo Glacier as the moon sets behind the Pigeon Feathers. Photo: Lyle Grisedale ACMG Mountain Guide Rich Prohaska leading the group in the midst of the King’s trench between Queen and King Peak. Photo: Sam Mckoy

ACMG Apprentice Ski Guide, Stephen Senecal, lowers Douglas Noblet on the last of the Deville rappels during Guest Jean Francois Bisaillon enjoying some prime powder at Hilda Ridge in the Canadian Rockies. Photo: David Lussier the 36 day Selkirks ski traverse. Photo: Sam Mckoy The Arête 24 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 25 The Arête Features

double life, so to speak, between cal helicopter pilots. The nearest cel- Ski Guiding in the North southern and northern Canada lular or WIFI signals are hours away A World Without InfoEx, Guides’ Meetings, or Nearest Neighbours has opened my eyes to the value of so satellite communication devices tools like the InfoEx, am and pm are backed up in triplicate. Just pro- By James Minifie guides meetings, and coffee shop gramming my SPOT, InReach, and or downtown pub information Satellite phone to make the appro- exchanges. Sources of information priate connections is a full-time job that are so integral to our success as sometimes. guides but things many of us take A rapidly growing interest and for granted. I know I did. demand for up Ok, I know what many of you here makes guiding in the North a who haven’t worked in remote great and welcome challenge. Now environments are thinking. “So, don’t get me wrong, there are sourc- if you have no InfoEx to check, es of support up here. The Yukon no colleagues to meet with in the Avalanche Association is filled with morning, no neighbours to call experienced individuals who work on the radio, no reliable weather tirelessly on the public safety front. forecast to read, then what the hell There are a handful of avalanche are you doing all morning?” Well, professionals, Hector and Colin good question. For a while, I often MacKenzie, Mike Smith, Kirstie asked myself the same thing. I was Simpson, and Eirik Sharp to name so reliant on InfoEx workflows and a few, who are active in the commu- am guides meetings that I really nity. And the recreationists up here had to make an effort to determine are a self reliant lot like I’ve seen how my mornings would go. What nowhere else. They understand the does the only Ski Guide north of consequences of getting it wrong in Terrace do in the morning to pre- a remote place and are constantly pare to keep his clients safe for the looking out for one another. A ve- day? I felt naked at first. I even felt hicle that’s been parked on the side irresponsible at times questioning The author investigates the entrance to another remote of the highway a little too long does line. Maybe it's been skied, maybe (probably) not. Poten- One of the the most striking things about the North is the sheer scope of the terrain. Everything (valleys, glaciers, whether I should even be operat- not go unnoticed in The North. tial first descents and uncharted territory are some of the crevasses) seems bigger and in most cases, probably is. Photo: James Minifie ing under such circumstances. Was In reference to the North and virtues of skiing in the North. Photo: Chris Milner I meeting the standard of safety set the Yukon specifically, I think Rob- In the far northwest corner of British Columbia, at the BC/ we’d do three years in the North, make a dent in the student by my colleagues and the ACMG? ert Service said it best. His words Alaska/Yukon borders there exist two mountain roads that find loans and settle back below my beloved Fernie Mountain in the Was I meeting the expectations of my clients by working alone still ring true with many who roam the wilderness up here. I their way through the northern Coast Mountains to the Pacific Elk Valley. Eight years and four kids later, we’re not going any- without support and an obvious shortfall of information as know they do with me… Ocean below. Before a person leaves Canada and drops down to where. The North has us in its grip. compared to my southern counterparts? I still struggle with this Haines or Skagway, Alaska, one will find some of the best snow- When we moved up, I wasn’t a Ski Guide yet but I was challenge, but I also relish it. No! There’s the land. (Have you seen it?) mobile access ski touring in the world. Rolling terrain crosses working on it. Multiple trips down south to take courses, pursue I solve this dilemma in a touchy-feely sort of way. I explore It’s the cussedest land that I know, alpine lakes and soon gives way to big, northern, tiger country. practicums, and fulfil my apprentice supervision requirements my feelings, literally. The key, I find, when one is working alone From the big, dizzy mountains that screen it Giant faces, rolling glaciers, steep couloirs, it’s all there… made for some interesting times. All the while, I continued to and without support is to fully acknowledge the situation and To the deep, deathlike valleys below. Sounds like the Selkirks, or southern Coast Mountains, or ski White Pass and Haines Summit and the urge to guide there their vulnerability. I still wake up early and do a full hazard Some say God was tired when He made it; Cariboos, or Rockies right? Well, kind of. Except for one small and show people the place burned in me. It wasn’t until I landed analysis but one thing I try to always focus on are the obvious Some say it’s a fine land to shun; detail, it’s remote. No nearest neighbours, no relevant neigh- a job with Avalanche Canada (then the Canadian Avalanche but unknown weaknesses in that analysis. The holes that would Maybe; but there’s some as would trade it bouring operations at all actually, save some intermittent heli- Centre) as a field technician for the Yukon forecasting region, otherwise be filled by experienced colleagues feeding informa- For no land on earth—and I’m one. skiing. There is no mountain search and rescue response and no that I really started to realize the potential of the place. Our field tion to me via the InfoEx or delivering it to me during an am Parks Canada Public Safety Specialists. In fact, if I were to call team covered a lot of ground. 120km days on the sleds weren’t meeting! So, when I go out and guide for the day I don’t focus There’s a land where the mountains are nameless, a helicopter in for a rescue the nearest machine is 150km away uncommon. While gathering information for the Public Ava- so much on the things I know. I focus rather on my awareness And the rivers all run God knows where; in Whitehorse. A handful of highly capable northern recreation- lanche Bulletin, we explored every inch of that place. Although of my elevated level of uncertainty because of the situation I’m There are lives that are erring and aimless, ists occupy this landscape but they never see each other. The I was an Apprentice Ski Guide by then, I couldn’t guide there in. I admit, this often leads to more conservative decision mak- And deaths that just hang by a hair; only evidence of their activities is a lonely looking pickup truck yet because the nearest supervising guide was thousands of kilo- ing but I think that is prudent when you work alone. My safety There are hardships that nobody reckons; stashed on the edge of the highway. It’s a big, beautiful, lonely meters away and probably knew little about that small corner of briefings are more detailed because I have to know for sure that There are valleys unpeopled and still; place. No searching for a parking spot, no up-track to follow. British Columbia. my clients can execute an effective companion rescue in my There’s a land—oh, it beckons and beckons, My family and I moved to Whitehorse in 2008. My wife Sa- A guide based north of the 60th parallel still has to come absence. Not just call for help, because there is no one to call. And I want to go back—and I will. mantha and I had been back and forth between the Yukon and south for a good portion of their winter. From December through My emergency response plan differs greatly from one you might our home in Fernie, BC for a few years. When she was offered mid-February, the days are short and it gets dark fast. The magic see in the SAR and helicopter-rich south, it involves trusted and James Minifie is an ACMG Ski Guide living (obviously) in a job in Whitehorse we made the move. In my head, I thought doesn’t really start to happen up here until March. Working this accomplished recreationists and personal relationships with lo- Whitehorse, YT

The Arête 26 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 27 The Arête Features Ski touring is even less popular, as not Koryaksky 3456m The Land of Fire and Ice many locals get up into the good terrain, and only about 100 foreign guests visit the penin- This giant and beautiful volcano greets you at the airport of Petropavlovsk. You will Ski Touring in Kamchatka, Russia sula each season. This means that you usually see its amazing triangular cone as soon as you step off the plane. This stratovolcano is a Story and Photos (where not specified) by Grigory Mintsev don’t run into other skiers in the “popular” ski fantastic place for ski : dozens of couloirs and lines leading from the top touring places, let alone the “unpopular” ones. down almost every aspect, with vertical drops of up to 2700m. If you simply draw a line west from BC across the Bering Sea, been named “one of the most outstanding volcanic regions in Besides, the backcountry skiing infrastructure you are sure to notice a massive peninsula, resembling a fish, and the world”. The Kluchevskaya Sopka volcano, with an altitude is very rudimentary. There are very few moun- as it happens, Kamchatka is one of the world's largest wild Pa- of 4835 m, is the highest active volcano in Eurasia and probably tain huts with snowmobile or snowcat access cific salmon spawning grounds. The waters around the peninsula in the Northern Hemisphere. and in many areas, you must stay in tents. are also rich in halibut, Kamchatka is also Ski touring season lasts from the end of flounder, giant grenadier the most extensively March until the end of June. Before March it and dozens of species of glaciated region of is too cold and windy on the volcanoes, but marketable fish, as well as north-eastern Asia, with skiing is good on the lower mountains, cov- Kamchatka king crab and glaciers covering more ered by beautiful Erman's birch trees. There squid. Fishing is clearly than 900 km2. That's are very narrow bands for Below Treeline, and the main industry here. why Kamchatka Penin- Treeline elevations, as the Alpine zone starts But let us move away sula is also known as the about 700-800 m above sea level. Most of the from the fish and have a "Land of Fire and Ice". skiing (especially in April-June) is in the Al- closer look at this place. Mountains and vol- pine. Fortunately, the weather in the second We will see that two- canoes are not the only half of spring and the beginning of summer thirds of the peninsula attractions of Kamchat- is generally stable, and there are not many are covered with moun- ka. Here rich flora and whiteout days. Sure, bad weather happens, tain ranges and dozens fauna can be found, as but usually systems last 2-3 days and then go of volcanic cones are well as the Valley of Gey- away. scattered around. From sers, hot mineral springs, The snow conditions here are variable. Couloirs of Koryaksky in mid-May November to July these the stunning Pacific Powder skiing on volcanoes lasts until the end mountains and volcanoes Coast, Aboriginal cul- of April, but sometimes you can make good are covered with several The Kamchatka Penninsula from space. ture, history and devel- powder turns in May or even early June (right Mutnovsky lcano 2322 m metres of snow. Photo: International Space Station opment of Kamchatka after snowfalls). From mid-April you can This voluminous volcano consists of several cones joined together as one massif. Thou- The peninsula mea- and Russian America. generally expect corn skiing, and May-June sands of years ago the main cone collapsed inside the volcano and formed a huge crater sures about 472,000 km2, is perfect for this. There is usually only one with glaciers, fumaroles and boiling mud volcanoes inside. You can get into the crater which is bigger than many Skiing in thing that can change your ski plans – wind. through a huge crack in the side wall or ski down from the top edge of the crater. Near European countries, like Kamchatka As with other volcanic areas, Kamchatka is a this volcano are some of the world's largest hydrothermal deposits providing energy to Italy or Germany. Let’s Ski touring and ski windy place, especially because of its proxim- the Mutnovskaya geothermal power station. take into consideration mountaineering started ity to the Pacific Ocean and Okhotskoe Sea. the fact that only 300,000 here in the 90’s, with Strong winds during the winter months offer residents live in Kamchat- very few enthusiastic very little chance of good skiing, but closer to ka, 75% of whom live in alpinists and skiers. spring and summer, it gets less windy. Even if three cities - Petropavlov- The “grandfather” of some places are wind affected, you can always sk-Kamchatsky, Yelizovo Kamchatka ski moun- change aspects to get better snow conditions. and Vilyuchinsk. The rest taineering is local I can only remember a few days in past 3-4 of the territory is a sparse- Mountain Guide Fedor seasons, when we had hard snow and uncom- ly populated land with Farberov (currently the fortable skiing. The terrain always gives you absolutely wild moun- technical director of choices. tains. Along the central the Russian Mountain However, there is a benefit to the wind. part of the peninsula the Guide Association). He As with many coastal regions, Kamchatka gets Sredinny Range stretches made almost all the first huge amounts of snow during the winter and 1200km with a width of descents of the most in- spring months (especially the southern part up to 120km. In the east- Airplane view on Viluchinsky volcano (2173m), mid-June. teresting volcanoes and of the peninsula). Thanks to the wind, the ern part of the peninsula mountain ranges, many snowpack on the volcanoes gets quite com- lies the Eastern ridge, 800km long and up to 100km wide. of which are still not repeated. pressed so that by the end of May there is 3-5 All these mountains are of volcanic origin, created hundreds started there in the mid 90’s, using big Russian m of very dense snow in places. Aided by mild of thousands of years ago, but volcanism is still happening in machines MI-8 and MI-8MTV. Compared to Canada, the summers, the snow melts very slowly (even at the peninsula. There are about three hundred volcanoes in Ka- heliski industry is still pretty small, about 400-450 guests per low altitudes) and stays there until August, mchatka, 30 of which are active. Volcanoes of Kamchatka are season in all operating companies (and it was much less just a giving us perfect corn skiing until July. Crack in the side wall and fumaroles of Mutnovsky volcano included in the UNESCO World Heritage List and the place has few years ago). The Arête 28 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 29 The Arête Features Ganalsky Range done in 1992, and the second time only in 2016. Situated 100km from Petropavlovsk (relatively close to the road) this is one There are many more interesting places to of the most scenic non-volcanic areas of be and to ski here, it’s just impossible to Kamchatka. The average height is 1500 - put all of them into one article. One week 1750m with some peaks reaching 2000m. in Kamchatka is better than a thousand This range provides interesting and chal- words. If you wish to visit the Kamchatka lenging terrain for ski touring and ski Peninsula one day, feel free to contact me. mountaineering. I’ll be glad to share the local knowledge and help to organize your trip. g.mintsev@ Kluchevskaya group of volcanoes climbtoski.com These are the most active and biggest Detailed descriptions of the areas, some volcanoes of Kamchatka. The volume of ideas about trips and itinerary, travel tips volcanic rock at this site exceeds that of and other useful information can be found all the Japanese islands combined. There at skiinginkamchatka.com are nine big volcanoes, and four of them exceed 4000 m. Grigory Mintsev is an ACMG Ski Guide, Kluchevskaya Sopka is a huge volcano dividing his life between Kamchatka and Airplane view on the middle part of Sredinny Range. Kluchevskaya group with a current altitude of 4835m (which Ganalsky Vostryaky massif. . of volcanoes far away. Photo: I.Kozlov changes due to frequent eruptions). In 1786 the world celebrated the beginning of the Alpinism era, with the first ascent of the Mont Blanc. However, few people know that just two years later, explorer and guide Daniel Gauss and two partners took the first step on the summit of this volcano in Kamchatka. No one climbed this amazing mountain over the next 143 years until 1931. It is still an absolutely View on the Kluchevskya group from the Ostry Tolbachik vlc. L-R: Ushkovsky and wild place and while climbing you can feel Krestovsky (one massif), Kluchevskaya Sopka (erupting) and Kamen (they look like one the spirit of the 18th century. volcano, but just in a line), Bezymyanny (little erupting volcano to the right from Kamen), and Zimina. Just to understand the scale, the “little” Bezymyanny volcano is 2882 m. Kamen' volcano. 4585m Photo: S.Romanenkov At 4585m, this is the second highest vol- cano in Kamchatka. One side of the vol- cano consists of a sheer wall of 2 km, and on the other side there is a huge glacier from the top to the very bottom. Research has shown the top of Kamen’ volcano has one of the lowest average temperatures in Russia. Sredinny Range inReach This is one of the least explored areas of  2-way text messaging Kamchatka. This giant range is just slightly  2-way SOS smaller than the Alps, but unlike the Alps, CONNECTED  Navigation and tracking only a few villages can be found in these  mountains. The southern part welcomes 100% global coverage occasional heliskiing groups, but on the remaining territory very few ski expedi- Reach anyone. Anywhere. Anytime tions take place. The highest point is Ich- inskaya Sopka volcano at 3621m, which is inReach SE and inReach Explorer. Rugged design combined with two-way messaging, SOS, located on the western part of the range. and GPS – inReach works where cell phones don’t. Send and receive messages, trigger an SOS, and share your journey. Stay safe and connected in the backcountry with inReach. It is the only active volcano in the range and is now showing weak fumarole activ- For a time-limited offer visit: www.inreachcanada.com/ACMG ity. The first descent from this volcano was North face of Kamen volcano. Plosky & Ostry Tolbachik massif on the backside The Arête 30 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 31 The Arête Features I visited the guide’s office in A Hiking Traverse through the Dolomites of Italy Corvara, where I found out about some hidden gems Story and Photos by Andrea Petzold that are not written in any guidebook. My original idea was to hike from hut to hut in Switzerland. Mountain Guide Jorg Wilz and I had a beer in Golden at a CPD social and he suggested that I head to the Dolomites instead. The terrain is not as steep, the huts are not as crowded and it is less expen- sive. Jorg also connected me to a local hiking guide who in turn introduced me to the taxi service and plenty of lo- cal beta. Many good ideas begin with a glass of beer. So thank you to Jorg for suggesting the Dolo- mites and “Grazie tante, Dolomiti!!” Andrea Petzold is an ACMG Image: www.altabadia.org Hiking Guide living in Can- more, AB Hiking through the rocks near Corvara, South Tyrol

For any guide who has been to Europe on a ski traverse, you will transportation and accommodation and gain local knowledge. Our know what I mean when I say there is a certain cultural feel at their trip began and ended with a half day hike. The first day was a lift backcountry lodges. Not only are there probably three languages assisted hike to Rifugio Pralongia and a comfortable descent into spoken at the dinner table along with a variety of beers or wine, but the valley above Corvara. Needless to say, the trails in Italy are well chances are you had a lift into the alpine by a gondola and before maintained and well marked. I hired a taxi service to take us to the long you will meet someone who knows someone you know. And trailhead every day and then pick us up in a different valley. so it was with us in the Dolomites. Our second day was again lift assisted as we marched to our I have been inspired to take in these international trips for first overnight at Rifugio Puez. Althought it is one of the more all these reasons. There is simply nothing quite like it in Canada. basic rifugios, the group enjoyed the well attended happy hour and Beyond the hiking, the nature and personality of these lodges are fantastic family style meal. The bunk bed set up was not ideal for exactly what sold this September trip to my summer hikers. these folks but it was just one night and we made up for it at the Our hiking trip started in the town of San Cassiano in Val next place. Badia and finished up in Cortina. Cortina is best known as the site Our daily hiking distances were about 9-12 km with elevation of the 1956 Winter Olympics. It has a population of 6000 people gains of 900-1100 m. We spent about 5-6 hours a day hiking over that swells to 50,000 in mid August. It’s for this reason, that I chose the 7 day trip. September. The highlight of the week was our trip from San Cassiano to We were blessed with clear skies and 20°C. My guests are most- Cortina by way of an overnight stay at the Rifugio di Fanes. Built ly women in their mid 60’s and although they are physically and in 1928, it has a long history of welcoming alpinists and ski tour- mentally strong, we all have our limits as to what is an enjoyable ers and is widely considered to be one of the nicest rifugios in the hiking day. I promoted my trip with the idea that many hikes will Dolomites. When we arrived, it was hard to believe, that on the start with a chair lift into the alpine and finish with a cold glass of sunny deck with Tyrolean music, we were miles from nowhere. I beer. I’m convinced that this novelty is as attractive as the hiking chose my hikes from researching the Cicerone guide “Walking in trail. the Dolomites” by Gillian Price. I arrived in San Cassiano 4 days before the guests and then Due to the size of my group (we were 14) I decided to hire a met my group at the airport in Venice. I visited this hiking area second guide from The Dolomites. I thought this would add some a year earlier to do a reconnaisance. My plan was to research the local flavour and give folks a variety of hiking options. In addition,

The Arête 32 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 33 The Arête

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

1. Mountain Guide, Alpine Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is currently accepting applications for the summer of 2017 for the Rocky Mountain Cadet Camp Glacier Program. Guides will be responsible for instructing and guiding Cadets on glacier mountaineering courses in the Wapta and Little Yoho areas. The contract runs from early July through mid-August. Work opportunities exist on either side of these contract dates. Applicants must be in members in good standing of the ACMG and provide a clean RCMP Vulnerable Sector Check. Fluent French and basic French writing skills are an asset but not required.

2. Apprentice Rock Guide, Rock Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is currently accepting applications for the summer of 2017 for the Rocky Mountain Cadet Camp Rock Climbing Program. Guides will be responsible for instructing and guiding Cadets on single and multi-pitch climbs in the Bow Valley area. The contract runs from early July through mid-August. Work opportunities exist on either side of these contract dates. Applicants must be in members in good standing of the ACMG, provide a clean RCMP Vulnerable Sector Check, have a Class Four Driver’s License and a clean driving record. Fluent French and basic French writing skills are an asset but not required.

3. Mountain Guide, Alpine Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, Rock Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide Part time and full time positions for the summer 2017 season are available for guides certified in the alpine It Runs and rock streams. Work involves both instruction and guiding on public and private programs. Guides will be responsible for guiding within their Scope of Practice. Applicants must be in members in good standing of the ACMG. A Class Four Driver’s License is an asset. It Rides 4. IFMGA Mountain Guide Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is currently accepting applications for a full time, permanent position for an IFMGA Mountain Guide. Work involves both instruction and guiding on public, private and military programs. The successful candidate will also be responsible for supervising Apprentice guides and contributing to the It Climbs continued improvement of Yamnuska’s programs and risk management system. Applicants must be members in good standing of the ACMG or their member countries association. A Class Four Driver’s License is an asset. (It Disappears) Wage range is between $300-320 with 2 weeks of paid vacation. Access to a group health and dental plan is Patagonia’s Houdini ® Jacket also available. patagonia.com/opportunist

Apply with resume by emailing [email protected]

© 2016 Patagonia, Inc.

PAT_S16_dini_ACMA_P.indd 1 5/27/16 4:4 PM The Arête 34 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 35 The Arête Features

effective that the teacher and students keeping the sled steady This time Ottalie would stay in the sled. Getting her up there Ottalie’s Adventure and level, had a hard time keeping up! Ottalie loved the ride and would take time and a lot of work. I sent the rest of the group By Paul Ledet (and Iain Stewart-Patterson) we gained confidence and experience in our ability to move her ahead to ferry their packs up while I told Ottalie how I foresaw up the steeper slopes. us climbing this hill, and then I joined the others. Near the top, we came to a point that had given Iain pause the previous week. “It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the jour- snow would likely be significantly different from what I was Throughout the day, I had been evaluating the condition of There was a big hole in the snow, on a short steep face, that had ney that matters in the end.” - Ursula K. LeGuin used to. I contacted Mountain Guide Iain Stewart-Patterson for the group and making plans for where we would stay the night. grown even larger over the last 10 days. his expertise in assessing snow conditions and rope hauling sys- Upon reaching the Forbidden Plateau Ranger cabin, we decided Stelly’s Secondary School on Vancouver Island has a history of to push on to Kwai Lake. It took a little route finding and was offering rich and diverse educational experiences to its students. tems for the sled on the steep slopes. While Iain could not join Ottalie’s trip due to prior commitments, the MEC / ACMG longer than anticipated but we made it and set up camp with a Our Outdoor Pursuits 11 program focusses on an introduction stellar view of Mt Albert Edward. After a much needed rest in to self-supported, backcountry hiking and snow camping in Adventure Access Grant enabled him to join us on the same trip with another group, 10 days earlier where he could assess the the tent, Ottalie joined the rest of the students for dinner and the Forbidden Plateau area of Strathcona Park, while our OP much laughter ensued. 12 programs offer three unique trips; to the West Coast Trail, conditions and terrain. the Nitinat Triangle After seven and the Sayward months of prepa- Lakes canoe chain. ration including In 2000, Ryan fundraising over Heuman, a grade $5000, collecting 11 student with gear donations, so- cerebral palsy, saw liciting a medical a great dream come team, and consult- to fruition when a ing the ACMG team of 10 adults we finally found and 20 students ourselves with a helped him climb very happy, excited to the summit of and nervous girl, Mt Albert Edward in the mountains, The large snow hole at our turn around point. surrounded by 20 in Strathcona Park. Photo: Paul Ledet of her peers and a It took a great deal Early morning light on Mt Albert Edward. hand-picked crew At this point we had to assess the potential risk and the of planning, strat- Photo: Daniella Ledet egizing, and hard of caring adults. consequences if something went wrong. Though I had taken work to get the Even though we hundreds of students through this area over the last 20 plus team there and it had chosen stu- years, doing so with a fragile student strapped into a sled was was tremendously dents who had a different story. I was most appreciative of Iain’s help in our rewarding. The sto- done the Mt Albert preparations for the trip where the thought process we had ry of his inclusion Ottalie Garvin and friends at Raven Lodge. Mt Albert Edward in the background. Edward trip before, talked about previously guided the current conversation. We it was still a chal- discussed whether we should try to get around this obstacle and in our Outdoor Photo: Jackie Cunningham Pursuits program lenge, and it took keep going, how we might do it, what would happen if things has been shared countless times both locally and around the a few hours for them to get their “snow legs”, especially with a went wrong, and how Ottalie would be impacted. Ultimately world. heavy load on their backs. We travelled relatively quickly from the decision was made to turn around and focus more on the the beautiful Raven Lodge (the base of cross country ski opera- journey than the destination. When I spoke with Ottalie, she When another of our students with cerebral palsy, Ottalie tions at Mt Washington) along some of their snowcat trails to said she was quite happy to not be going up the steep slope and Garvin, asked if it would be possible to do the same trip I had Lake Helen MacKenzie. Once we reached the shores of the lake, that the trip wasn’t about the summit anyway! One of our stu- my reservations. Unlike Ryan, she has no mobility in her legs I went ahead with probe in hand, checking the condition of dents suggested a different way back to Circlet lake that would and no control of her arms which would make an already chal- the snowpack that covered the lake. We wanted to avoid going allow Ottalie to have a beautiful view of Cruikshank Canyon. It lenging endeavour, even more so. After considerable discussion, around if at all possible for expediency and because we antici- was a great idea and even after 63 trips to area, I had a chance we decided to give it a shot, but made it clear that a successful pated the forested slopes around the lake would be punishing to travel in a new direction and share this unique view with the trip would be defined not by the goal of summiting but by the Start of the climb to Albert Edward. for Ottalie. Thankfully, the snow and ice on top of the lake was group for the first time. quality of the experience we could provide Ottalie and her sup- Photo: Jackie Cunningham consistently good all the way across. port team. On our third day, after a great camp at Circlet Lake, we We headed up towards the saddle connecting Mounts On day two of our four day trip, we made short work of made our way towards Croteau Lake for our last camp. Trav- To give her the experience of travelling with a group of peers, Brooks and Elma. This was where we first had to break out the the approach to Albert Edward. We ate lunch at Circlet Lake eling with Ottalie in a sled, created a new experience for me. we put the call out to our grade 12 students from previous OP ropes, slings, and pulleys, and use the skills that we had prac- and climbed up to the plateau leading to the long ridge. After Whereas I usually have the students take charge of navigation programs, and asked them to submit letters detailing their desire ticed with Iain. The ability to move Ottalie uphill was gener- a number of smaller climbs, and one longer one requiring the while I help them with route finding, this time I was usually off to participate and how they could make this a better experience ated in two ways. A team of six people pulled and pushed to pulley system again, we reached the base of one of our more ahead of the group, on my own or with a few other students, for Ottalie. We received 20 quality submissions and decided to provide the majority of the force needed. On the steeper slopes, daunting climbs. At this point on the year 2000 trip, we cut scouting routes that would have the gentlest slopes, the flattest take them all. they were assisted by a counterbalance team of 4-5 teens pulling steps across the slope at a fairly shallow angle and one of our contours, and the minimum number of obstacles. At this point, While I had been to the area over 60 times in the past 22 downhill on a 50m rope tied to the sled and redirected through teachers carried Ryan all the way up. We then used similar pul- the physiotherapist and Ottalie’s caregiver let us know that she years, this time we were going a month early, in May, so the pulley / clutch tree anchors. The counterbalance team was so ley and clutch systems to haul the empty sled up behind them. was in more pain and suffering from the constant jostling in The Arête 36 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 37 The Arête Features

the sled. As we travelled towards Croteau Lake, I instructed the team to keep her as smooth and level as possible while we scout- ed further and further ahead, looking for the best combination of smooth snow, gradual slopes, and shade from the sun.

What a view! Mounts Frink, Albert Edward, Regan, and Jutland. Photo: Andrew Irwin On the last day, we made it out and back to Raven Lodge in record time, following snowcat trails most of the way. Not Making our way down from Mariwood Lake, towards needing to make too many route-finding decisions gave me lots Mount Elma. Photo: Andrew Irwin of time to think of the many contributions that made the trip At some points things would get steep or bumpy, and so successful. There was no doubt in my mind that the trip was though we knew Ottalie was suffering, she kept up the banter an unqualified success. No, we did not reach the summit like we and joked the whole way. When we got to the base of the trail did with Ryan in 2000, but once the decision had been made to that would take us up to the south end of Croteau Lake, we turn around, all our attention had turned to providing Ottalie stopped for lunch, took Ottalie out of the sled to stretch her out, with wonderful experiences and memories. Our success was evi- and scouted the best way up to the lake. Snow conditions and dent in the laughter and smiles of Ottalie and this special group deadfall across the summer trail made it non-negotiable with the in a special place. sled. Eventually we made our way to the lake and looked for the Paul Ledet is a teacher from Stelly’s Secondary School on Vancouver best way beyond which was clearly straight up the side of a steep Island hill. As Ottalie enjoyed her rest, most of the teachers headed up to pick the best lines and anchor points while a number of The Guiding Perspective students armed with avalanche shovels, did their best to carve By Iain Stewart-Patterson out a smooth(ish) path for the sled. It took about an hour to get everything set up but it was time well spent as the climb with When Paul asked me to provide some technical direction for went off without a hitch. The students who weren’t helping with this trip I was glad to help. As I learned the details, both the the sled, did a number of trips up and down the hill ferrying concept and the challenge of the task intrigued me. It was not a packs and equipment. standard or “normal” guiding challenge. I approached this with When you get to the top of that climb, you can head North many questions in my mind, as I was unfamiliar with the terrain, but we turned South and climbed a little bit more to enjoy one the needs of the “guest” and the abilities of the support group. of the best views of the trip. The advanced scouting mission allowed us to assess the ter- One of my favourite moments on the trip occurred at Cro- rain and the hazards. It became apparent that there were two teau Lake. Once we had set up camp and changed into warmer aspects of safe travel in this terrain: the group members’ technical clothing, one of the students quietly came over and asked if we and movement skills and the management of Ottalie and her thought it would be possible for all of the students to take Ott- sled, while providing an enjoyable experience. alie away to the afternoon’s lookout point to watch the sun set Travelling with this group of energetic teenagers took me over the mountains. We talked over the plan; where they would back to the ten years I spent as an Outward Bound instructor. go, what they would do to keep her warm and safe, and after There was much laughter, smiles, boundless energy and some dinner they all took off, back across the lake. inevitable tears and fears. This group accentuated the guiding Watching them head off, tears running down my face, I real- concept of providing an exceptional experience by creating a ized that this was what the journey had been all about; how cool journey for someone who would not normally have access to the it was that Ottalie was able to have this special opportunity to mountains. It also reinforced the concept of service. There was experience the backcountry in a way that might not have been nothing normal about this guiding challenge. possible otherwise, with a group of her peers that that had cho- sen to come and experience the journey with her. That was what Iain Stewart-Patterson is a Mountain Guide living in Kamloops, mattered in the end. BC The Arête 38 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 39 The Arête Features Rescue at Cherry Bowl By Mary Clayton

RESCUE AT CHERRY BOWL Athlete: Cody Barnhill

This Is A Story Fisher Creative Photo: Mark Fisher, That Needs To Be Told

START YOUR JOURNEY

The interactive website walks the viewer through the journey of the story and lessons to be learned. Images: avalanche.ca

Story-telling is one of our oldest forms of communication, and one of our highest forms of education. So when we at Avalanche Canada heard the story of an amazing backcountry rescue we knew we wanted to tell it to a wider audience. We also knew we wanted to try telling it a new way—using a digital approach that would allow the viewer to read, watch and interact with the lessons being taught. Rescue at Cherry Bowl is an online, interactive website that tells the story of how a group of four backcountry skiers were saved after they were hit by a size 3.5 avalanche in an area known as Cherry Bowl, near Shames Mt, just outside of Terrace, BC. One of the group had miraculously managed to stay on the surface by grabbing a tree but when the dust settled, his three friends and all his rescue gear had been swept away, leaving him alone with just his transceiver. Screenshot of rescuers from Chapter 1 - Burried Alive But another group of four skiers had witnessed the avalanche from the ridge. With many years of backcountry experience be- With the help of MEC as a title sponsor, we were able to tween them, they had only weeks previously taken a Companion start work on this project in the spring of 2015. But develop- Rescue Skills course, to hone their accident response as a group. ing a multi-media site was a bigger task than we had envisioned, They leaped into action and within 20 minutes, all three vic- especially for a small organization with an IT team of one. Our tims had been dug out of their deep burials, alive and virtually original plans for launching in the fall of 2015 fell by the wayside. unharmed. Work continued through the winter and we were very pleased to 2 In addition to this amazing story, we also had the good fortune be make the site live in early November of this year. RADICAL of a production crew in the area shortly after the accident. This You can find Rescue at Cherry Bowl here: film crew—Tin House Creative from Crested Butte, CO—knew TÜV CERTIFIED – EXPERIENCE A NEW LEVEL OF SAFETY AND LIGHTNESS www.avalanche.ca/cherry-bowl. of our interest in doing something with this story. They shot long WE GUARANTEE THE PERFECT BOOT BINDING COMPATIBILITY WITH DYNAFIT CERTIFIED INSERTS®. interviews with everyone involved and each individual told their INCORPORATED BY SCARPA, FISCHER, SCOTT, ROXA, HAGAN, MOVEMENT AND DYNAFIT. story with honesty and emotion. This compelling footage gave us Mary Clayton is the Communications Director for Avalanche a great start to building this site. Canada and lives in Revelstoke, BC 20150910_dyn_az_radical2_us_final.indd 1 14.09.15 08:31 The Arête 40 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 41 The Arête Near Miss ing to as we were busy getting out the door and on the road. Avalanche - Simpson Control Paths, Kootenay Park • The field day was rushed as we had to move quickly to make it back for a forecaster meeting that was planned for the end of the By Ian Jackson day. 2. Snowpack Observation Gaps • Both forecasters felt out of touch with the snowpack as they hadn’t been in the field much recently, especially in the Simpson area. • No surface instabilities were noticed with ski testing while up tracking and variable but not alarming results in the snow profile gave us confidence and confirmed our incorrect hazard assessment. • The ebruaryF sun crust layer was not being tracked well, and its presence was not known in the Simpson Paths. This layer did not show up in the study plot profile, and we had not seen many failing on buried sun crusts: it caught us by surprise. Although in hindsight, it seems obvious that a sun crust would have formed during the warm weather of the preceding weeks; we had been intentionally staying off solar aspects due to ski quality, so didn’t have direct observations of this crust. • Cornice growth since previous visits was talked about multiple times, but the uptrack wasn’t adjusted enough to give the cornices an extra margin and the connection to the wind loading of new snow into the start zone wasn’t made. 3. Biases • We hadn’t solidified our trip plans in the morning, but had the trip in the back of our minds as a possibility if conditions looked favorable at the study plot and on the tour up. The ski quality was excellent, the tour made for a good loop with fall-line skiing in terrain that we didn’t visit often and we had pre-placed a bike shuttle on the highway. These factors created a motivational bias to complete the more aggressive loop. • I had done the same trip three times earlier that year and was familiar with the terrain. I felt that the deep persistent problem was not present as it had been cleaned out by avalanche control earlier in the year, and the wind slab would be no bigger than size Simpson 3 avalanche and intended ski route. Photo: Grant Statham 2 and manageable with cornice testing from the ridgeline. This tycane pro outdoor BUILT familiarity with the terrain from earlier in the year became a bias On March 14th, 2016 my colleague, Grant Statham, and I were tracking. The fracture line was ~200 – 300 m wide and ran for pushing me into more aggressive terrain than I otherwise would on a forecasting field trip to the Simpson Study plot near Vermil- ~1200 m, taking out much of our intended ski route. Nobody have been comfortable with. TO FACE lion Crossing in Kootenay National Park. This area is adjacent was involved in the avalanche. We were obviously surprised by Despite all of this, we made a critical snowpack observation to the Simpson control paths which are regularly monitored as this and momentarily concerned about the open highway below. that influenced the decision to do avalanche control in the fol- ANYTHING part of the Banff, Yoho & Kootenay (BYK) avalanche control Upon further investigation, the avalanche had stopped ~400m lowing days. Forecasters added a layer to the avalanche hazard program. from the road. assessment and triggered many large avalanches during control We followed the regular uptrack through the trees, to the es- over the next three days. tablished study plot at ~ 2050 m where we did a full profile and Analysis saw no alarming test results. We decided to skin to the ridgeline This event was significant as it was a near miss with a large Summary and investigate a loop skiing down Simpson 3 (one of the high- avalanche that was not forecast by our hazard assessment and Near miss incidents are often the result of many small errors that way control paths) and onto the ridge between Simpson 3 and 4. occurred in terrain that we were planning on skiing that day. alone would be inconsequential, but when added together create We did some ski testing with small cornices on the way Additionally, this avalanche occurred in a path above an open an accident or a near miss. In the case of Simpson 3, the biggest up Simpson 1 and got no results, and then skied a short steep highway. of these errors was that the forecasting team that day never had a north facing run into the hanging valley above Simpson 3. We It identified an avalanche problem that was not being tracked good discussion about the terrain they were planning on travel- uptracked onto the ridge and were skiing along the corniced and showed that our forecasting team was more out of touch ling into before they were there. ridgeline towards the entrance to our proposed run to do some with the conditions than we thought. The following factors con- The group terrain discussion which occurs in the form of a more testing with cornices when I triggered a truck sized cornice tributed to our near miss: ‘run list’ discussion at most ski guiding operations was not pres- adidas.com/eyewear at my ski tips. 1. Operational Pressures ent and may have prevented this near miss. Given the geography The cornice landed on the slope below and triggered a size • The morning forecasters meeting was rushed to get out the door and operational constraints of the BYK Visitor Safety program, 3 avalanche in the Simpson 3 slide path. This failed on a sun for a bigger field day. We didn’t spend much time discussing cur- it is improbable to use a run list for all the possible terrain that crust layer down 50 – 100 cm that had not been a layer we were rent conditions or looking at the terrain we were planning on go- we may access as in a typical guiding operation. The Arête 42 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 43 The Arête Near Miss Near Miss

However, we have identified this lack of group terrain dis- ture to share these events? Or am I simply biased by my recent cussion as a gap in our risk assessment and are working on ways near miss? Climbing - Mount Aberdeen, Banff Park to improve this, such as: adopting the strategic mindset as a tool Many of these near misses were shared openly amongst the By Brent Peters to guide a general terrain discussion, creating a modified ‘run professional community. Whether through the InfoEx, Infor- list’ of popular areas, and working on ways to streamline the rest malex or a company’s internal email system, it was great to see of our morning meeting tasks to enable us to spend more time that professionals were open to sharing and learning from each on the important terrain discussions. other’s mistakes. Often there is not a big difference in actions Additionally, we have decided to adopt a new study plot and decisions between a near miss and an accident, so sharing location near the Simpson control paths that will better repre- and learning from these near misses is critical. sent sun crust problems and help fill the gap in our snowpack Based on the near misses of winter 2015/2016, we decided observations there. to make some changes to the way we keep track of and share near Given that we accidentally triggered a large avalanche in a miss incidents in BYK Visitor Safety. We gathered ~10 years of path above an open road, our team had a discussion on whether historical near miss data to create a baseline database of incidents we should implement a protocol to guide when and how we ac- in our program and improved our near miss recording protocols cess terrain above open roads. After some discussion, and given going forward to ensure all future near misses are recorded and that many of our paths have a long runout before they affect the shared amongst the entire Mountain Parks Visitor Safety Pro- road, we decided the benefits of gaining information from field gram. These changes will allow us to share notable events and trips to the start zones outweighed the potential risks of trigger- track trends more easily. ing an avalanche onto the open road and didn’t create any new I think near miss tracking and recording is a critical step to policies. Instead, we are using this incident as a reminder to our increasing the safety of the guiding and avalanche profession. team of the high consequences of terrain above the highway. I hope that my sharing of this incident inspires other ACMG Reflecting on this near miss, and reading near miss reports guides to share their near misses going forward and I am interest- from other operations, it seemed that there were a higher than ed to see what new developments will come from the ACMG’s usual number of professional near misses and incidents in new committee responsible for near miss reporting. Have a safe 2015/2016. This raises some important questions: Are profes- winter! sionals having more near misses now than in the past? Is there a trend? Are this season’s high number of professional near misses Ian Jackson is an ACMG Mountain Guide and Visitor Safety Tech- due to unique snowpack conditions? Is there just a better cul- nician for Banff, Yoho & Kootenay National Parks Mt. Aberdeen’s Northeast Glacier. Photo: Kendra Stritch

Location – Northeast Glacier East Slope, Mount Aberdeen. the guide without incident. When asked why the client did not rappel, the client explains that he couldn’t get the rope to move Time of Year – October through the belay device so he unclipped his harness from the Situation – A new client is interested in doing an alpine style rappel. The guide builds an anchor for the client, ascends the ascent in the Canadian Rockies. The client claims to have done rope to retrieve the belay device and free the rope, rappels back numerous guided alpine ascents in Europe and claims to be pro- to the client, and lowers the client to the toe of the glacier before ficient with moderate alpine terrain. He is looking for an ascent down climbing. that involves glacier and snow travel. Site Review – After discussing the incident with the client, it Description - The weather is mediocre with some new snow becomes apparent that the client has done very little technical forecast for the climbing day. Temperatures are cold minimizing climbing where the client has been responsible for any of the rock fall hazard. Aberdeen offers the opportunity to climb until rope systems. Even though the guide demonstrated to the cli- a turnaround time is reached or conditions prove too adverse ent how to rappel with the belay device, the client did not fully with the ability to reverse the route. understand. There was both a lack of systems knowledge and On the approach, there is up to 10cm of new snow that is miscommunication due to a language barrier. blown in to lee aspects of the approach trail making trail break- Self Analysis – Because the guide and client chose to retreat after ing tedious and slow. It is already mid-morning when the toe of one pitch, the guide could have lowered the client back down the glacier is reached. The glacier has a layer of new moist snow the entire pitch. This would have ensured the safe descent of the pasted to the ice. The guide leads the first pitch and belays the client to the toe of the glacier. The guide could then have either client up to an ice anchor. The client decides that he is happy down climbed or rappelled. In situations where communication dmmclimbing.com with the day and ready to retreat. The guide builds a v-thread is unsure, skills are unproven, and the ground is only one pitch anchor and threads the rope for a half rope rappel. The guide’s away, lowering is the safest and quickest solution. Attempting to intention is to conduct two rappels to return to the toe of the provide the client with an experience provided an opportunity glacier. He puts the client on a stacked rappel prior to leaving for error. If adequate training or screening of training has not the anchor. Because of the bulge in the ice, it is impossible for been completed, defer to the safest solution.. [email protected] the guide to see the client until the client is at the midpoint of the rappel. When the client becomes visible, the guide sees the Brent Peters is an ACMG Alpine Guide and Apprentice Ski Guide client descending the rope hand over hand. The client reaches living in Canmore, AB The Arête 44 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 45 The Arête Technical

for most of the touring work I do, these boots Arc’teryx Procline Ski Touring Boot & make a lot of sense. The designers focused on creating a boot that G3 FINDr 102 Ski - Gear Reviews could be used for both skiing and climbing. Pic- ture doing the approach to Nemesis, climbing it By Marc Piché and skiing down. All while wearing one pair of boots that performed well at every stage. This might seem like more of an advantage in a place like Chamonix, but I found the weight and dex- terity to be very appealing for more traditional touring and as well. In typical Arc’teryx style, these boot are like nothing else on the market; the upper boot is comprised of a few pieces of plastic and carbon fiber wrapped around the liner that only has a thin gaiter over it. I haven’t explained it very well but what this creates is a very light boot with un- believable ankle mobility. Walking in this boot, whether you have skis on or not is a dream. At one point I went back to my other, reasonably flexible boots for a day and I felt as though I was walking with cinder blocks attached to my feet! I used these boots for a lot of skiing and clas- sic mountaineering, a couple of nights of winter camping but due to the mild temps this winter, I never had them below -15 C. The liners were a bit on the thin side and I was concerned about Procline Carbon boot & Findr 102 skis. Images: www.arcteryx.com and www.genuineguidegear.com cold feet but I think the freedom of movement they allowed my feet helped keep them warmer than expected. I will start by clearly stating that I am an ambassador for both I felt this ski excelled was in variable conditions where all types G3 and Arc’teryx. While there is no expectation by them that I of snow could be encountered. It was narrow enough at the waist In an age where touring boots are becoming sugarcoat any reviews, I’m keenly aware that this assumption can to break trail on hard snow, stiff enough to deal with crud, light stiffer and stiffer, the downhill performance of be made. enough to walk all day for weeks in a row but not so light that these boots is probably closer to the (relatively) old Scarpa Spirit 4. The flex does take a little While working on the coast in mid February I received a pair they chattered on hard snow. getting used to because all of the stiffness comes of G3’s “new for next year” all around touring ski, the finder 102 I'll admit to being a bit of a gear junkie and I surprised myself from the back of the boot rather than the tongue. as well as the new Arc’teryx Procline ski touring boot. My job was a couple of times this winter when I caught myself thinking that to put them to the test prior to them becoming commercially I'd be happy if this was my only ski for touring. Yes, it can be nice The buckle system uses cables and pulleys so available for the 2016/17 winter season. I managed to put about to have a slightly narrower ski for late spring conditions and a that only a few quick adjustments are necessary Natural PerformaNce 55 days of ski touring on this set-up in all types of conditions slightly wider ski for midwinter, but if you can only have one-this to switch from walk to ski mode and back. ranging from knee-deep powder to knee-deep slush with a bit of would be a good one. Most testers found that the durability of the great corn snow skiing in between. I am 6’3" and about 185 pounds. I found these skis to be stiff built-in gaiter and the gaiter zipper were a sig- It is also important to note that both the skis and boots were enough to perform well even while carrying a heavy overnight nificant issue after only a few weeks of use. My pre-production models and that although performance should pack. They turned easily in all conditions and the tips were only zippers failed after about three weeks of use ren- be similar, numerous improvements have been made to both due grabby in thin breakable crust. dering the gaiter more or less useless. I managed to continue using them for several more weeks with a few modi- to feedback from testers. The only downside I experienced with the skis was the fragile changes they will be making before writing this. They definitely fications to help keep the gaiter closed. Although I expected to In recent years I have offered my services as a gear guinea top sheet. It chipped easily along its edges and the skis quickly had some issues to resolve and hopefully they’ll get them sorted see some wear and tear on the buckle cables, they remained intact pig quite frequently but never have I been compelled to write looked well used. I have spoken to the engineers at G3 and they before this coming season. throughout. Finally, about 200 m from the end of my last run of a review. I believe that both of these products represent signifi- told me that they have taken several steps to address this issue in the season, the metal hinge pin holding the cuff onto one of the These boots will not be for everyone. Some people will defi- cant steps forward in performance and functionality that will be the production model. boots either broke or fell out…Arc’teryx said this was the only nitely find them to be not stiff enough and the effectiveness of greatly appreciated by people who spend a lot of time ski touring. Skis are such a personal taste and I am always reluctant to case of this happening they had heard of and it would have been their durability upgrades has yet to be tested, but, I have a feeling recommend. All I can say is that I thoroughly enjoyed these every a relatively easy field fix with a bit of wire. these boots will become popular within the guiding community G3 FINDr 102 Ski day I had them on my feet. once the kinks have been ironed out. The design team has been working hard to address the issues This is a fairly traditionally shaped ski with a little bit of early rise Arc’teryx Procline Ski Boot found by testers this winter. As far as I know, the zippers have tip. The 102 mm waste is not very ‘fat’ by any modern standard been upgraded and some changes have been made to the buckle Marc Piché, a Mountain Guide and the ACMG Technical Director but is certainly sufficient in most deep snow conditions. Where While I don’t expect to see many guides using these for heli-ski- system. Unfortunately I was not able to get a detailed list of the lives in Canmore, AB. ing, nor will competitive freeride skiers be lining up to buy them, The Arête 46 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 47 The Arête Technical Osprey Talon 33 Hiking Pack Review Features I wasn’t sure how much I’d use the hiking pole By Ken Bélanger attachment system, but I found it really useful on alpine approaches when encountering 3rd and 4th class terrain. Normally I’d slide my pole(s) horizontally between my back and the back panel, but they stick out the sides mak- ing chimneys annoying and the poles easily shift. Instead I found stowing them quick, easy and secure using the vertical Stow-On- The-Go system. Once I’d returned to lower class terrain, it was quick and easy to pull out the pole again to continue. Just like the the Kamber 42 I used last spring (reviewed in the Summer 2016 issue of The Arête), the bottom ice axe loops (2) are just simple webbing. They’re quite long and tools flop around a lot on these, so I twist them before clipping in the shaft. When not in use, you can tuck them away out of sight to create a clean profile. A nitpicky point, but I’d prefer to see the over the top compression strap (under the lid) sewn to the opposite (back side) of the pack. I rarely use this strap on a hiking pack, so it constantly falls and hangs onto the outside of the pack unless buckled. I never encountered heavy rain, but in Image; www.ospreypacks.com light showers the fabric was water resistant Pocketing enough. But with all of the seams, I would Overview want a rain cover for real precip. Unfortu- The minimalist moniker doesn’t apply to this full-featured pack, Osprey Packs is an ACMG Partner and make some of the best nately, there isn’t a built-in rain cover, but but rather to its relatively small size if you used it for an over- backpacks in the world. I had been looking for a better pack for Osprey makes one to fit. night. There are a lot of pockets here, and I found pretty much hiking guiding, so picked up an Osprey to try it out. Of course this pack isn’t made for climb- all of them useful. ing, so loading it up with a rope and a rack isn’t Model tested The lid’s cavernous exterior pocket is great for often needed, really a fair test. However it did allow me to bulky but light items, and there’s a mesh pocket on the inside The Talon 33 is marketed as a minimalist overnight backpack- realise that heavy loads are not its forté. There with a key clip. The lid is removable. It was ingenious to use ing or day hiking pack. There is a wide range of volumes in isn’t enough suspension to effectively transfer continuous cord instead of webbing for the lid buckle attach- the Talon series from a 6 L fanny pack to the largest size at 44 the load to your hips. Also the hip belt is ments. When the lid is buckled down, the cord cinches and L. The equivalent women’s model, the Tempest, has the same bulky and wide so it needs to be folded back- makes a tight seal over the side of the pack body. Outdoor Research is a proud supporter of the ACMG. features and similar volumes. I wore the Talon 33 for a number wards for wearing with a harness. The light- of guided day hikes, a couple days of cragging, a few alpine rock The two side pockets have been perfectly sized for one litre weight material wouldn’t withstand tonnes of SARAH HUENIKEN AT HOME ON ICE AT JOHNSTON CANYON, | PHOTO BY JOHN PRICE climbs and an Italian via ferrata. Nalgene bottles, but if you need to stow something smaller in abrasive abuse. But this isn’t a climbing pack, them, there are compression straps. so probably not best to use it for that. Fit The mesh front panel pocket is slick: you can access an extra layer quickly or store wet raingear without worrying about wet- Conclusion This pack is made to be light, which is apparent as soon as you Ken Bélanger is an ACMG Ski and Hiking Guide and the ACMG ting the inner contents. There are even a couple of drain holes As usual, Osprey has thought through everyOR_ACMG detail Ad_Full_052616.indd on the Talon 1 5/31/16 11:54 AM pick it up. The back panel, shoulder straps and hip belt are Partnership Coordinator with a base in Canmore and outdoor of- that could double as a lash attachment or blinker light. 33 pack. It’s easily one of the best hiking packs I’ve worn and lightweight die-cut foam with oodles of ventilation. When you fices all over the world. put this pack on, you can feel it contouring to your body which An external hydration sleeve allows access to a water bladder I’m looking forward to many more days in the mountains with creates a very comfortable fit. I’m not very tall at 175cm, how- without opening the pack – very convenient. You can route it. ever I do have a long torso so I extended the Velcro adjustable your hose through bungees on either shoulder strap, the left one Osprey is available on Pro Purchase to all active ACMG mem- back panel to its longest positon on my M/L pack and it was has a pocket for stashing the bite valve and tube. I use this bers. We work with the Canadian distributor, so all pricing is in long enough (but only just). external sleeve to store my foldable splint too. CAD and shipped from their Canadian warehouse. As always, I like the ErgoPull hip belt closure system: you pull forward The comfortable moulded hip belt has a zippered pocket ordering and pricing details are found on the Pro Purchase page to tighten the hip belt, which makes snugging the waist belt on each side for sunscreen, lip balm, a few snacks, compass and of the ACMG member site. secure and easy when moving through technical terrain. your inReach device. The Arête 48 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 49 The Arête Technical Julbo Aero (Zebra Light Photochromic) Review By Jeff MacPherson

The Sharp End Shell : Constructed with lightweight and durable GORE-TEX® Pro for waterproof breathable protection.

BlackDiamondEquipment.com Photo: Jeff MacPherson

Overview eyes. I did get some fogging on a damp cold day when I slowed down to recover after hammering up a hill, but other than that Designed for fans of intense effort, such as vertical kilometer they have been good and never fogged during activity. racing, Aero is uncompromising when it comes to performance and comfort. The photochromic lens guarantees a wide, obsta- Lens cle-free field of vision, regardless of light levels. The suspended The Zebra Light Photochromic was the lens in the sunglasses construction adds outstanding ventilation by encouraging air to that I tested. I was amazed by how well they worked in a variety pass between the lens and the frame. Last but not least, the Air of conditions. I fell in love with the lens during my first moun- Link concept and its shock absorber insert at the end of the tain bike ride in the trees, I never had to take my glasses off. temples offers even better grip and lightness. This was the first time ever, that I was able to wear sunglasses Yamnuska Mountain Adventures is a premier provider of mountaineering, , rock climbing, throughout an entire ride. Comments backcountry skiing, avalanche training and trekking experiences in the Canadian Rockies. For nearly 40 I personally found the lens adequate in most light, even brighter First, I would like to thank Julbo for their support of the ACMG days, but I think people with sensitive eyes would not find them years, we have hosted clients from Canada and all over the world. As one of Canada’s best mountain and its members. I have had the opportunity to wear a few pairs dark enough. I never had a chance to test these lenses out on the of Julbo glasses over the years and I have been happy with every schools and mountain guide companies, we run trips, programs and courses from beginner to expert snow but I am sure they would only work in flat light. pair. After testing the Aero sunglasses with Zebra light pho- level. tochromic lenses, I feel that the overall performance its quite One con would be the durability of the lens, I do have some good. The one thing to note is that this lens is not suited to all scratches already after about two months. I think the fact that Current positions are available for Cross Country Ski Instructors to deliver 5 day training courses. conditions, you will need to have a few options depending on they are such a light lens with a reflective coating means the the lighting. scratches show up easily. However, these scratches did not affect Courses run starting Mid-January through early April and will be based from Canmore. Interested candidates require a minimum of CANSI level 2, CAA Operations level 1 and an 80 hour first aid course. Function Performance my vision. Overall The fit seems to be pretty generic in that it should fit most faces. Wage will depend on certification and experience. The Aero glasses are super lightweight and have a nice soft nose I would recommend these glasses for any activity. piece along with soft grippy arms so they do not move at all dur- For more information or to apply please contact [email protected] ing any activity. I would call this a performance fit. I found with Jeff MacPherson is an ACMG Ski Guide, Apprentice Rock Guide this great fit, there was enough space to let the air flow through, and Day Hiking Guide living in Canmore, AB. limiting fogging but still providing maximum protection for the

The Arête 50 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 51 The Arête Member Updates Diapers and Vows Changes in ACMG Membership By Lilla Molnar 1 June to 30 November 2016. Compiled by Member Services The following list of changes in the ACMG membership includes new members and their certification level as well as qualifications achieved by ACMG members dur- ing this specific time period. Due to Thompson Rivers University privacy concerns it is not a list of all candidates who have been successful on CMSG-TRU training programs nor is it necessarily a complete list of ACMG member qualifications. Always check www.acmg.ca for up-to-date current status. Please do not hesitate to contact [email protected] if you have any queries or if there are any errors, omissions or you have been missed. Italicized names indicate new ACMG members.

Mountain Guide Drotar, Nathalie Joined ACMG for the first time Dumas, Laurie Anthon-Malone, Todd (not through course during above period) Goulet-Boucher , Amelie Board, Merrie-Beth Gray, James Mintsev, Grigory SG Caswell, Michael Groeneveld, Eric Banwell, Damian ASG Geary, Alex Hicks, Kendra Cunningham, Dylan ASG Mitchell, Jeff Kroesen , Laura Inman, Greg ASG Phillips, Brent Kurihara, Junko Robbins, Hayden ASG Kusnierz, Peter Sigurjonsson, Gardar ASG Apprentice Alpine Guide Lemphers, Ryan Tracz, David ASG Boschman, Cory SG, ARG McLellan, Cameron SG Bertram, Katie CGI 1 Bouliane, Jesse ARG Nadeau , Jocelyn Bransfield, Tyler CGI 1 Flick, Dean RG Nearingburg, Ben Chan, Lucas CGI 1 Herbison, Mark ASG, ARG Nowatschin, Christine (Tina) Dufresne, Daniel CGI 1 Johnston, Monte ASG, ARG Olfert, Courtney Gabayet, Jorge CGI 1 Patterson, Matt Grinde, Aidan CGI 1 Apprentice Rock Guide Paule, Michaela Harden, Gaye CGI 1 Hemsworth, Chloe CGI 1 Top: Kitt & SethWescott with Kitt's son Thoren. De Panicis, Drew Phipps, Mark Reimer, Rachel Herman , Jan CGI 1 Right: Micah Loewenstein. Demyen, Carla SG Semborski, Robert (Bob) Hroza, Libor CGI 1 Graham, Lorne ASG Jensen, Kye CGI 1 Bottom Right: Maverick Thumlert. Hoke, Jonas SG Vanderkam, Mark Williams, Valerie Kim, Bong Hyun CGI 1 Latimer, Forest ASG Kudelka, John CGI 1 Macfarlane, Ruari Congratulations to everyone…here are the most recent Diapers Climbing Gym Instructor 1 MacPherson, Scott CGI 1 Maguire, Daire HG McKay, Kristine CGI 1 and Vows submissions; Nixon, Brent Ho, Raymond Pidgeon, Thomasina CGI 1 Apologies for a late submission for Larry Dolecki (Mountain Roderick, Tucker Rigsby, Willow CGI 1 Guide) and his wife Mette, who had their third little one in the Sanchez, Roberto Climbing Gym Instructor 2 Robinson, Jenna CGI 1 spring. Annika Hoegh Dolecki was born on April 26th. Schalles, Brad ASG Shannon, Melissa CGI 1 Taborszky, Sebastian Cuthbert, Kori Will Woods (Hiking Guide) and his wife Allison had their Sigurdson, Solvin CGI 1 Ferri, Rebecca first child, Henry Woods, in April. Swart, Jessica CGI 1 Lilley, Sara Hiking Guide Systad, Christopher CGI 1 Dani Loewenstein (Mountain Guide) and his wife Kristen Wohlers, Brendan Van Weelden, Carmen CGI 1 had their little guy Micah on May 17th. They just wrapped up Bastien, Renee-Claude Abbott, McGregor (Mac) Vanderpyl, Daniel CGI 1 their first trip abroad surfing in Nicaragua. Bergeron, Nicholas Furlotte, Eric Bernas, Igor SG Vielfaure, Sofie CGI 1 Eric Ostopkevich (Mountain Guide) and his partner Nancy Blake, Mike White, Ryan CGI 1 had their baby girl; Ivy, in June. Bleau, Francois-Xavier Top Rope Climbing Instructor Willison, Rick CGI 1 Scott Thumlert (Ski Guide) and his wife Violet, had a second Eaton-Loken, Derek Pitura, Freya little family addition. Maverick was born on September 13th. Kerr, Valerie Holland, Avila Reinstated to the ACMG Kitt Wescott (Ski Guide, previously Kitt Redhead) was mar- Kirouac, Eric Poirier, Leah Kemkes, Ben ASG ried to Seth Wescott on October 2nd in the US state of Maine. Lebitka, Peter Rieberger, Ryan Tuffin, Josh CGI 1 Kitt’s son Thoren was the ring bearer on their magical day. They LeBlanc, Jean-Philippe Venn, Kevin Steinbrenner, Cole TRCI Levesque, Claire are all now living in Whistler, BC. Wallis, Lindsey Liang, Kai Raurell, Alejandro Lee Johnston (Ski Guide) and his wife Monika added a little Nodding, Jenna Brophy, Mark CGI 1 Resigned from the ACMG baby girl to their family; Nevé Oriah Johnston was born at their Weiss, Nathan Foulger, Geoffrey Greico, Joel CGI 1 home in Nelson, BC on Oct 9th. Both Monika and Nevé are Friesen, Jake Frid, Teige CGI 1 perfectly healthy and happy, and ready for some adventures! Assistant Hiking Guide Lew, Pei Yin Caputa, Peter AHG Roddy McGowan (Mountain Guide) did not fill his diaper Baker, Lynnea Maly, Jiri Diapers and Vows is a regular column brought Orr, Doug at the ACMG general meeting, but on October 16th he celebrat- to you by Canmore, AB Mountain Guide Lilla Bennett , Kyle ed his 17th year wedding anniversary with Saint Keiko Suzuki. It Brazier, Michelle Provost , Trevor Molnar. Yun, Heesu is a CMH intro to Heliskiing Romance and a modern miracle. Chrystie , Heather Cossette, Marc

The Arête 52 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 53 The Arête ACMG Contact Information Subject to change: for current information, see www.acmg.ca > Contacts Board of Directors - Officers of the Board President Vice-President Secretary-Treasurer Marc Ledwidge Ross Berg Director, West Coast Kevin Dumba Director at Large, Public Harvie Heights, AB Squamish, BC Calgary, AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Board of Directors - Elected Directors Director, Specialty Guides Director, Apprentice Guides Director, Climbing Instructors Director, Hiking Guides Director at Large, Member MG Derek Wilding Madeleine Martin-Preney Scott McKay Chris Kaipio Cecelia Mortenson Calgary, AB Revelstoke BC Canmore, AB Whistler BC Revelstoke, BC [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Director, Rockies Director, Interior Director, Eastern Canada Director at Large, Public Director at Large, Member MG Jordy Shepherd Kirsten Knechtel Philippe Gautier Rick Cowburn James Madden Canmore, AB Golden BC Montreal, QC Calgary, AB Canmore AB [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

Board Advisors The Arête Newsletter Organizational Contractors Communications Finance The Arête is a semi-annual publication focusing The ACMG has a variety of Technical Director on the relevant technical and political issues and independent contractors who Marc Piché GET Kimanda Jarzebiak John Gillett Ascent Public Affairs Canmore, AB member news for the professions of mountain fulfill the required administra- Canmore, AB Victoria, BC guiding, hiking guiding, and climbing instruction. tive functions of the association. [email protected]

Legal Editor-in-Chief Continuing Professional The TD chairs the G W Kent Scarborough Shaun King Development Technical Committee, Scarborough Herman Bluekens Canmore, AB CPD Coordinator oversees all matters New Westminster, BC [email protected] Alison Dakin relating to technical FUNDED Golden, BC standards and reports to [email protected] ACMG Administrative Support the President. The Administrative Support Group, led by the Executive Director, is responsible for matters relating to membership, member services, accounting, IT, sponsorship and promotions. The ED reports to the President. Executive Director Permit Manager, Administrative Assistant Member Services Web, Graphics and IT Partnership Coordinator Peter Tucker Assistant to ED Elaine Powers Manager Coordinator Ken Bélanger Bragg Creek, AB Janet Miller Rossland, BC Laura Young Chris Miller Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore, AB [email protected] Canmore, AB Canmore, AB [email protected] In April 2016, Madeleine Martin-Preney,

[email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Noblet Douglas Stephen Senecal, Douglas Noblet, Sam ACMG Committees McKoy and Mark Grist became the first Committees are groups of volunteers who assist the Board of Directors and Executive Director with some operational work and decicion making for the Association. As a member-driven organization with limited resources, the ACMG looks to its committees for insight and energy. Board members typically, but not necessarily, chair team to ski traverse the entire Canadian each committee and the President and Executive Director are ex officio members of all committees. If you would like to join one of the committees, please contact the Selkirk Range. 16 months of prep, 8 food President [email protected]. caches, 520km, and more than 30 Awards Conduct Review Pierre Hungr Professional Practices Kirk Mauthner self-propelled days resulted in a new Chair: Chris Miller - Chair: Rod Gibbons - Kent Scarborough (legal advisor) Chair: Nathan Dahl - Craig McGee [email protected] [email protected] Paul Vidalin [email protected] Helen Sovdat Canadian expedition benchmark. Brad White Committee members added James Blench as necessary. Pool includes: MCR/Informalex Alison Cardinal Incident Investigation By supporting innovative outdoor exploits Climbing Instructor Caroline Marion (public) Chair: Larry Stanier - Brent Goodman Chair: Mark Klassen - Chair: Scott McKay - Paul Berntsen [email protected] Steve Holeczi [email protected] across Canada and around the world, Barry Blanchard Matt Peter [email protected] Steve Holeczi Troy Kirwan MEC Expedition Support helps Canadians Chris Adshade Gillian Calder (public) Sarah Hueniken Veronika Vackova Ben Firth Justin Dwyer Nathan Dahl Conrad Janzen Kent Scarborough turn ambitious goals into inspiring realities. George Field Kimanda Jarzebiak Tom Wolfe Scholarship (Legal Advisor) Lloyd King Neil Haggard (public) Chair: Derek Wilding - Larry Stanier Sebastian Powell Jeremy Mackenzie Membership Services [email protected] Ian Tomm Derek Wilding Dave Stark Chair: Ben Firth - Jason Billing Brad White Larry Stanier [email protected] Jordy Shepherd Want to know more? Leslie Taylor (public) Communications Christoph Dietzfelbinger Sharon Wood mec.ca/expeditions Chair: Lisa Porter - Marni Virtue (public) Jorg Wilz [email protected] Rupert Wedgwood Derek Holtved Technical Emily Grady Janet Miller Technical Director: Paddy Jerome Governance Mike Welch Marc Piché - [email protected] Jeremy Mackenzie Chair: Rick Cowburn - James Blench Olivia Sofer [email protected] Dwayne Congdon Ian Tomm Steve Blagbrough Todd Guyn The Arête 54 Winter 2017 Winter 2017 55 The Arête ACMG Print PDF included into email version of publication

PROOF DOCKET # 16_SPCI_0018 ITEM PRINT AD: ACMG Print PDF (back cover) PUBLICATION ACMG Print PDF PROJECT ACMG ad IMAGE _MG_7710.jpg, _MG_7159.JPG SIZE 7.5”w x 9.5”h

CLIENT C&M Jaime Jacquard-Sowa DESIGNER Fiona, fi [email protected] BLEED NA

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MOUNTAIN EQUIPMENT COOP  GREAT NORTHERN WAY, VANCOUVER, BC V T E    COLOURS CMYK Partners The following companies contribute financial support to the ACMG and its membership at the highest level. We would like to thank these outstanding companies for their excellent support, and their commitment to professional guiding in Canada. Logan

Robson

Columbia

Assiniboine

Athabasca

The Arête is printed on 100% recycled, FSC paper paper using vegetable based inks and Digital, Print On Demand technologies that minimize chemical use and overall waste. Please be responsible and recycle after reading.

The Arête 56 Winter 2017