A Quarterly Publication of the American Model Association, Spring 2007, Issue Number 147 US$7.00

Featuring Santa Barbara and 36/600 On the Cover Contents of Issue 147

Photo by Dennis Deprois. This picture was taken at the The Masthead...... 4 Mission Bay Model Pond in San Diego, California, President’s Letter...... 5 during Race Week 2006, sponsored by the San Diego Argo- Model Yachting News...... 6 nauts. It was the first day of the National Championship Re- AMYA Business Calendar...... 6 gattas for the Santa Barbara and 36/600 Classes. The picture The Santa Barbara Class...... 7 was taken just before the first race. The 36/600, sail #214, is Assembling a Santa Barbara, Part 1...... 9 being sailed by Craig Macky of Bellevue, Washington. Craig Epoxy Construction Pointers...... 20 sailed on to the 2006 36/600 National Championship. He is Cartoon by Ralph Kanko...... 21 racing a Venom made by Bob Stern, who has written an ar- Tote that ...... 22 ticle for this issue. The Santa Barbara, sail #1601, is being The Helmsmen Model Yacht Club...... 23 sailed by Ken Forbes of Escondido, California. He is a Race Yourself Against the Clock...... 24 new boat manufactured by Ludwig Mfg. of University City, The 36/600 Class...... 25 Texas. The boat was built by Bob DeBow of San Diego. The Venom 36/600...... 27 Let’s Race With The Rules, Rules Tutorial, Part 4....28 The American Model Yachting Association (AMYA), a not-for- Regatta Reports...... 32 profit organization that is dedicated to promoting the designing, build- Regatta Schedule...... 43 ing, racing, and preservation of all model sailing and is open to all Class News & Views...... 44 people who are interested in these activities.. Soling One Meter...... 44 In pursuit of these goals, the AMYA publishes Model Yachting Mag- East Coast 12 Meter...... 45 azine. Model Yachting is published four times per year in accordance with Victoria...... 45 the AMYA calendar. The staff of the magazine is composed primarily of US One Meter...... 46 AMYA member volunteers who devote countless hours of their time to produce this publication. Editorial policy is ultimately determined by the Marblehead...... 47 AMYA Board of Directors; however, the views expressed in this publica- CR 914...... 48 tion do not necessarily represent the views of the Executive Board, the 36/600...... 49 Board of Directors, or the majority of the AMYA membership. Star 45...... 49 Advertising in this publication is encouraged as an informative ser- V-32...... 50 vice to the AMYA members and as a means of helping defray the costs of Santa Barbara...... 51 printing. The AMYA does not take any responsibility for any advertiser’s SeaWind...... 51 products. Soling 50...... 52 This issue of Model Yachting, except those parts as are specifically Open...... 52 stated, is Copyright © 2007 by the American Model Yachting Associa- RC ...... 53 tion, January 2007. All rights reserved. US12...... 54 AC...... 55 Advertiser Index Newport 12 Meter...... 56 J...... 57 American RC 52 Footy...... 57 Anchor Bay Specialties 46 10 Rater...... 58 Black Sails 24 Wheeler...... 59 Bob’s BoatYard 26 Infinity 54...... 59 Carr Sails 19 The US Vintage Model Yacht Group...... 59 Chesapeake Performance Models 48 2007 Vintage M 50-800 Championship...... 60 Dennis Desprois’ Walrus Sails 26 A Tribute to Bill Bithell...... 61 GBMY—Great Basin Model Yachts 40 AMYA Stats & Facts...... 62 GRP Model Yachts 2 AMYA Treasurers Report...... 63 Hanna 68 AMYA Executive Secretary Report-The 2007 Election...64 Hitec 19 Cut-out Correction for Issue 146...... 64 Model Yacht Fittings 58 AMYA Yacht Registration Form...... 64 R/C Concepts 50 AMYA ’s Store Order Form...... 65 RMD Marine 45 AMYA Membership Form...... 66 RMG Sailwinch 19 Scale Sailing 57 The Boat Shop 46 Issue 148 Final Deadline is March 26, 2007 Traplet Distribution USA Ltd 67 US 12 and Liberty 34 54 Featuring Victor Model Products 44 Vision Sails 47 The Soling One Meter Class

American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 3 Assembling a Santa Barbara Part 1

By Rich Matt ave you considered a HSanta Barbara One Design (S/B OD)? To find out more about the boat, ask a person already owning one, and he will most likely start out by telling you, “It’s a good performing boat.” He will go on to compare the looks, sailing charac- teristics, and handling of the S/B to that of a full-size racing . Experienced sailors will also be ready to tell you that the S/B class rules provide a certain appeal to those who prefer to sail rather than argue. The Santa Barbara One Design is a legend in the world of R/C sailing. These S/Bs are heading for the weather The hulls and keels are in San Diego where the Argonauts have hosted regattas for the class since 1971. Photo by Bruce Lopez. as alike as cupcakes. A single one-size rig having one sail plan is assembly or disassembly of the rig, rud- or a boat completely assembled, it is like specified—No need for a Storm Rig, A, der, and keel takes only a few minutes. ordering a pizza. Decide on your extra B, C, or even a D rig! Only user-friendly When Model Engineering toppings and baking style when you lead shot pellets are allowed as keel bal- stopped producing, the S/B the class place your order. Also, as when ordering last. A couple inches shorter than six feet went for over a decade without a source a pizza, you might need to wait in line long, having a tall 72” sail rig, a 16 lb fin of new boats. Then, about ten years ago, for your order and wait for your order keel, and a balanced rudder means it will Dwight Hartman’s Hartman R/C Fibre- to bake—our S/B Class suppliers do not sail a steady coarse, be highly maneuver- glass came to the rescue and started mak- necessarily have their products in inven- able at a starting line, and be big enough ing available the Yacht 420 hulls, keels, tory and ready for immediate delivery. to be seen when rounding a mark. A decks, and rudders. No longer did the Supplier Option 1: From Hartman sturdy, seaworthy is required. Both class need to sustain itself on the avail- R/C Fibreglass, Box 86, 233 Melrose a minimum-maximum keel weight and ability of used boats alone. Once again, St., Argenta, IL 62501; or phone: 7:00 an all-up weight requirement are speci- folks having a basic workbench and kit- to 9:00 a.m. or p.m. CST, 217-795-2275. fied. In 1970, the S/B OD was the very building skills were able to put together a Order Yacht 420 —$154.00, keel— first to get Sanctioned Class status by the new boat meeting the class specifications. $95.00, keel installation pack—$5.00, AMYA, and thirty-six years later, it is still Dwight Hartman has a long-standing rudder—$15.00, Soling-50-style deck around and going strong! Not too many reputation for supplying quality prod- with hatch covers—$104.00, full-size boats can match all these advantages. ucts. For example, more than 900 of his plans—$10.00, and a double-wall card- The one-design concept of the S/B 42” LOA (length overall) Douglas Greg board shipping box—$10.00. It adds up has been maintained successfully ever Harbor Tug kits have been produced. to about $400.00. The epoxy-resin fiber- since Tom Protheroe designed it way Today, in addition to Hartman R/ glass parts require some trimming, some back in 1968. Older boats fitted with C Fibreglass, there are two more S/B filling, and painting. Dwight Hartman modern sails routinely demonstrate they Class-approved manufacturers: Ludwig offers only the essential fiberglass parts. are just as fast and competitive as newer Mfg. Co. and Midlife Boats. If you are He does not offer wooden parts, lead- ones. A used S/B, up for sale, will prob- ready for a S/B Class boat of your own, shot keel ballast, spars, hardware, or ably bring the same price as when the you now have options. With three S/B sails. The kit builder has other sources seller first bought it. It has proven to be OD class-approved manufacturers to and choices for those items. The Hart- large enough, heavy enough, and sturdy pick from, you can find a boat in do-it- man S/B Short Kit in the hands of a kit enough to handle strong winds and large yourself kit form or pre-assembled to builder having average skills will result waves. Yet, for its size, it is not all that dif- any degree of completion. Whether a in a nice boat, which has been proven to ficult to pack up and transport. Pondside short kit having the molded parts alone win races and will hold its value. American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 9 completion a buyer might want. Hard- chael Kelley, or to contact Ron Thornhill. Phone: cludes an airfoil shaped, clear-anodized, 805-658-1108. This fully assembled and T-6 6061 aluminum 72” mast plus 24” ballasted boat, ready for you to install main boom for $27.00. Other new hard- your radio, winch, deck hardware, and ware items include: a mast crane, mast sail, is available for $800.00. Or, you can deck step, gooseneck, boom vang swivel, opt for them to provide the boat fully clew slide, and spreaders, all of which are rigged and ready for the water. made from carbon, stainless steel, plas- tic, or nickel-plated brass, which is rust- free and useable in salt water.

This S/B OD was assembled using the Short Kit parts available from Hartman R/C Fibreglass. Photo by Rich Matt

A S/B OD like this one is available from Ludwig Mfg. as a Short Kit or pre-as- sembled to any degree of completion. Dwight Hartman in his workshop. The Photo by Ernie Mortensen. mold alongside is for an EC12. He is a Class-Approved Manufacturer of the S/B OD, EC12, and Soling 50. Photo by Rich Matt

Supplier Option 2: Ludwig Manu- facturing Co., 429 E. Wright Blvd., Universal City, TX 78148. Phone: 210-724-3827. Website: . E-mail: . Larry Ludwig Ron Thornhill (top photo) and Mike offers the Santana 70, a class-approved Kelley (bottom photo) are proprietors hull, ocean-racer style deck, rudder, and of Midlife Boats. Their S/B class ap- ballasted keel, all in white gelcoat for Larry is holding together a fresh-from- proved boat comes from the shop with $415.00. Larry is available to install the the-mold, Ocean Racer-style deck, the deck attached to the hull. Top photo necessary interior parts and assemble the along with a fresh-from-the-mold S/B by Mike Kelley. Bottom photo by Ron short kit. Rather than use for be- hull. Photo by Rich Matt. Thornhill. low-deck support parts, if he is doing the assembly, he prefers the use of Divinycell Supplier Option 3: No short kit, Option 4: Visit and check out Honest install the deck reinforcing parts, install rudder, and ballasted keel that meets Ahab’s Classified For-Sail Ads. Mark the keel supports, install the rudderpost, the class rules; the Ventura 70, is avail- Cooper does a great job of managing and install the deck, it will cost about able from Midlife Boats, 5264 N. Ven- the classified ads for Ahab’s web page. an additional $200.00. He is available to tura Ave., Ventura, CA 93001. Website: Another source of used boats is the new also assemble, equip, and rig the boat, . E-mail: to contact Mi- Model Yachting Magazine © Spring Issue, 2007 parts. The basic W-12 is a stump puller model sailboat hardware is available. to begin with, but with these modifica- Start with Ludwig Mfg. Co. and other Model inch of torque. The W-12BB sells for Yachting advertisers: GRP Model Yachts $250.00 plus $7.00 s&h. For a long time, , Great Ba- Ozmun Design has provided the popu- sin Model Yachting (GBMY) , and Roger Cousineau masts and booms. The 72” mast costs . $25.00 plus $7.00 for the mailing tube. Also, while researching hardware For $9.00 additional, you can get a 24” on the Internet, be sure to go to AMYA main boom made of the same alumi- Website, , bring num mast material. Since the boom can up the Class Rules page, and print out be readily inserted in the shipping tube the S/B Class Measurement Specifica- along with the mast, there is no addi- tions. Every class of boat has measure- tional shipping and handling expense. ment rules, which are intended to define If you would rather install a the physical parameters and insure the drum-style winch, consider the RMG boats are equally competitive with each SmartWinch. It is high speed, high other. For the Santa Barbara, the class A S/B like this one is available from torque, and “intelligent.” RMG, has a dis- brief, all you need do is: 1) buy the hull and ready for the water. Photo by play ad here in Model Yachting. Some and keel from a class-approved manufac- Mike Kelley. of the S/Bs in California are using the turer; 2) have a suit of sails that meet the RobotZone SPG815 servo with the 4:1 measurement rule; 3) use cold lead shot taBarbaraOD>. Occasionally, a Santa ratio as a swinging arm SCU; for more and not poured molten lead as ballast Barbara is listed for sale on Ebay. No- info: . pounds; 4) use the same rudder as does B holds its value! If needed, a new suit You will need a suit of sails made everyone else; 5) install a seaworthy, hard of sails and some rigging maintenance according to the class rules. Black Sails, material as decking; and 6) pay heed to are all it might take to revive an older Carr Sails, and Bob’s Boat Yard have a few measurement specifications: 1.62” boat to race-winning condition. been in the business of making S/B sails maximum deck , 72” maximum Also to be considered in addition to for over three decades. Walrus Sails and mast height, 53.5” maximum jib stay the hull, keel, rudder, and deck are those Vision Sails should also be considered. attachment height, a beam tolerance of things that are essential to every R/C All five sail makers have display ads in 12.5” to 13.0” at 37” aft of the bow, and a sailboat: sails, a device for trimming the this issue of Model Yachting. A virtue of full-boat weight of 23 to 28 pounds. sails, spars, rigging, and hardware. At the S/B OD Class is that one sail rig is all When assembling a short kit, it will least a two-channel radio will be needed that is allowed and needed. In all winds, be necessary to get a variety of items for operating sheets and rudder. The the boat moves well, stays in balance, from a hardware store or home-im- class does not limit the number of chan- and doesn’t submarine under this well- provement big box. The wooden parts nels and servo functions. Many S/Bs are designed, original sail plan. are made from an 8’ length of 1/4” x 1- also equipped with jib trim, adjustable As mentioned above, an aluminum, 3/8” pine lattice molding. Sheer strips backstay, and jib . foil-shaped mast in the S/B Class-re- for providing support and a gluing sur- Since the S/B is a big boat having a quired 72” length is available from either face for the joint where hull meets deck big sail rig and is often sailed in strong Ludwig Mfg. Co. or Ozmun Design. can be made from a 6’ length of 1/4” winds, the Sail Control Unit (SCU) Another version of aluminum mast and by 1-3/8” pine lattice molding that has needs to have some muscle. The most a full-line of hardware are available from been rip-cut lengthwise. A 3’ length of popular S/B SCU is of the swinging- Great Basin Model Yachting: . If you prefer a carbon-fiber installed under the deck to either side be mounted to one side of the keel-bolt mast, contact Bob’s Boatyard, . Booms can be boat carrying handles. When it comes or it can be mounted on the centerline aluminum, carbon fiber, fiberglass- ar time to epoxy the deck to the hull, you between the keel-bolt wing nuts if hav- row-shaft, or wood. will want a roll of duct tape and a roll ing a two-sided arm. A good one to A choice of hardware fittings is now of blue masking tape. Coarse, medium, consider is the W-12 SCU from Ozmun available. Every boat needs a gooseneck, and fine grit sandpaper will be needed. Design, 3608 Fox Road, Huron, OH vang fittings, cleats, tangs, turnbuckles, A dozen “acid brushes” are essential 44839. Phone: 419-433-3025. The W-12 chainplates, screws, screw eyes, bowsies, for applying epoxy glue. A pint of ac- sells for $160.00 plus $7.00 shipping and spreaders, rigging wire, jumper-stay fit- etone will help clean off mold release handling (s&h). Ray Ozmun now makes ting, and masthead fitting. Going to the wax from gluing surfaces and clean ep- available another version of the winch, Internet, or getting the neighbor’s com- oxy from the acid brushes. the W-12BB. It features stainless steel puter-savvy kid to go to the Internet for Putting together a short kit means ball bearings, output shaft, and other you, is important when researching what you also need to plan a trip to the hob- American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 11 by shop. You will need an aircraft nylon tackle store and pick up a spool of 45 lb- The Hartman keel-top flange and hull- steering arm for use on the rudder shaft, test Dacron line to use as sheets and for keel socket are flat-sided, and the keel- a package of nylon reinforcing tape for lashing the carrying handles to the deck top flange mounts three keel bolts. The reinforcing wood-to-fiberglass glue thwarts. While there, pick out a package Ludwig keel top and hull-keel socket are joints, a fiberglass arrow shaft and clevis of larger-size, ball bearing swivel clips to rounded, and there are two keel bolts. fittings to use as a rudder pushrod, both use as jib tack and backstay fittings. There will be some differences in keel quick-set (5 or 15-minute) and slow-set Opting to put together a fiberglass- mounting and keel fitting procedures, (at least one-hour) epoxy glue (in that parts-only Short Kit from either Hart- but these differences should be apparent quick-set epoxies are not proven to be man or Ludwig means that you will to the builder and accommodated ac- waterproof, a coating of slow-set epoxy, need to provide the necessary wooden cordingly. The fore and aft location of to be used later in the building process, parts for supporting the removable rud- the hatch opening is different, and this is recommended to cover this vulner- der, removable keel, and permanent will affect the placement of the deck ability), a container of micro-balloon deck. Once you have gathered the pine thwarts. Also, the Hartman hull comes filler to thicken epoxy glue, a 6” x 12” lattice molding, birch dowel, and birch from a two-piece mold and has a seam sheet of 1/8” birch plywood to use as plywood, it will be necessary to rough- that will require a little bit of fairing. radio and SCU mounting boards, a jar cut the wood along its length, as well as The Ludwig hull comes from a one-piece of model maker’s surfacing putty, and a cutting it to length. A table-saw is best; mold and is therefore seamless. small bottle of thin CA glue for making a motorized scroll saw will do nicely, or The Hartman hull will come with lashings and knots permanent. a fine-tooth hand saw would even work a length of wood temporarily taped in The Ludwig Short Kit comes with when doing the along-the-length “rip” place at the point of maximum mea- a ballasted keel. But, if you are plan- cuts. Final fitting and tapering of each sured beam. Leaving it there while the ning to get the Hartman R/C Fibreglass part is best done with a hobby razor saw wooden parts are being installed will in- Short Kit, you will need to visit a fire- and a sanding block. Yes, it is possible sure that the maximum-minimum beam arms dealer for a bag of #8 lead shot and permitted to use a high-tech, exotic, measurement of 12-1/2” to 13” is main- to use as keel ballast. A half-pint can of space-ship proven, oven baked, super- tained and that all wooden parts will be polyester resin from the hobby shop will composite, sandwiched material instead fitted so as not distort the natural sheer be needed in order to solidify the shot of primitive wood. However, remind or shape of the hull. After installing the in the keel. For obvious reasons, a small yourself of the class weight requirement sheer strips to the top edge of the hull, funnel is essential to the keel ballasting and just go-ahead using the easy-to- it may be necessary to adjust the length procedure! If it happens that your local work-with, cheap, and convenient wood. of this beam gauge in order to meet the firearms dealer won’t sell you lead shot A list of the rough-cut measurements is specified range of beam measurement. without you having a gun-owner regis- shown on page 13. About 1/4” to 1/2” The beam gauge should be taped in tration permit, take this magazine over extra length has been added so as to ac- place while all below-deck and deck sup- to the police department, show some- commodate final fitting and tapering. port parts are glued in place. body this article, and ask them nicely to This article is intended as an instruc- Before beginning the assembly of phone an Okay to the firearms dealer. tion manual that applies specifically to your S/B or any other polyester or ep- You are not done chasing around the Hartman Short Kit. There are some oxy resin hull like it, such as an EC12, just yet! Head on over to the fishing differences with the Ludwig Short Kit. AC, M, Soling 50, Wheeler, etc.; you will 12 Issue 147 Model Yachting Magazine © Spring Issue, 2007 need to know about the adhesives you will be using. Most builders have been using the epoxy glues readily available from the local hobby shop or Internet hobby suppliers. There are about five or six different brands of epoxy glue to pick from. All of them involve mixing an equal amount of “Part A” with an equal amount of “Part B.” All brands come both as your choice of “quick-set- ting,” meaning that it hardens in five to ten minutes, or “slow-setting,” meaning that it hardens in about thirty minutes or longer, preferably at least an hour. Quick-setting epoxy is handy for posi- tioning wooden parts in place, but it is not entirely waterproof unless it is given a second coat of slow-setting epoxy. Only slow-setting epoxy must be used when attaching the sheer strips to the hull and when attaching the deck to the sheer strips—you will need some work- ing time when doing these two assembly steps. Many experienced model boat builders would rather use the epoxy Wooden Parts for a Hartman S/B Short Kit adhesive products that are used by the full-scale boat builders. Model Yacht- T3 1/4” x 1” x 12-1/4” Deck Thwart ing Technical Editor, Dick Lemke, has T6 1/4” x 1” x 12-1/4” Deck Thwart provided for this issue a separate article about these epoxy adhesives. Please re- K1* 1/4” x 3/4” x 9-1/2” Keel Thwart fer to it when deciding which adhesive K2* 1/4” x 3/4” x 10-1/2” Keel Thwart you will be using. K3* 1/4” x 3/4” x 10-1/2” Keel Thwart Many epoxy resin systems used to RT 1/4” x 3/4” x 7-1/2” Rudder Thwart make fiberglass hulls involve polyamine- T1 1/4” x 3/4” x 6-1/4” Deck Thwart based hardeners. When the epoxy cures, T2 1/4” x 3/4” x 10-3/4” Deck Thwart a waxy substance, called amine blush, T7 1/4” x 3/4” x 10” Deck Thwart floats to the surface. This material will T8 1/4” x 3/4” x 8” Deck Thwart interfere with the bonding of any coating A 1/4” x 3/4” x 6-3/4” Mast Support applied to the epoxy or of an additional B 1/4” x 3/4” x 2-1/2” Stringer Shim application of epoxy. It will appear on C 1/4” x 3/4” x 2-1/2” Stringer Shim both the outside and inside of the hull. S1 1/4” x 3/4” x 21” Fwd. Stringer But, it can be relatively easily removed S2 1/4” x 3/4” x 15-1/2” Aft Stringer by washing the surface with water using T4 1/4” x 1/2” x 12-1/4” Deck Thwart an abrasive such as a Scotch-Brite pad. T5 1/4” x 1/2” x 12-1/4” Deck Thwart (Do not use a solvent.) Wet sanding will D 1/4” x 1/2” x 2-1/2” Stringer Shim do the job. When washing or wet sand- E1 1/4” x 1/2” x 4” Chainplate Back-up ing is complete, immediately dry the E2 1/4” x 1/2” x 4” Chainplate Back-up surface with paper towels, which will absorb the blush solution. If applying (2) Sheer strips: 1/4” x 5/8” x 70” another layer of epoxy (either as a coat- (2) Handles: 15” Birch dowels ing or in gluing), further abrade the just- Radio Board*: 1/8” x 4-1/8” x 6” plywood cleaned surface with 80-grit sandpaper SCU Board*: 1/8” x 3-1/2” x 6-1/2” plywood to provide “tooth” to aid in bonding by increasing the surface area and making * These measurements are intended for a Hartman Short Kit. Because it more irregular, thus making the bond the keel bolt locations are different in the Ludwig Short Kit, wooden parts more secure. If the waxy substance is K1 and K2 will be different, and K3 will not be needed. The different keel really some left-over mold release wax, bolt locations will also affect the measurements of the plywood radio and use acetone to remove it. Another rou- SCU boards. tine with epoxy glue is to mix one part of “A” with one part of “B” and add American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 13 the equivalent of one or two parts mi- scribed in the hull, put there to indicate ester resin, used for solidifying lead shot cro-balloon filler to the glue. It will do height of the deck. in the keel, can also be used as filler, but wonders to keep the glue from running it is harder to sand down. Plan on sand- or failing to fill any gaps. After a first Step Two: ing with 120-grit on a sanding block. A application of glue hardens, but does Fitting Keel Flange to Hull Socket final sanding with 220-grit will remove not cure completely, apply a 2” length enough surface material to allow for the of 3/4” nylon reinforcement tape at each The next step is to install supports thickness of paint to be applied later. end of the thwart and up the side of the for the removable keel. Drilling the holes hull. This nylon tape, half on the thwart in the hull for the keel bolts requires some Step Three: Installing Keel Support and half up the hull, when impregnat- careful pre-drill measuring. Along with Blocks and Thwarts ed in a second coat of epoxy, will help using a ruler, make a paper template that strengthen the joint. matches the top of the keel and fits down Available with the Hartman Short over the keel bolts. When this template is Kit are three wooden blocks that are to Step One: Installing the Sheer Strips then placed into the hull’s keel socket, it be glued in place above the holes in the should give you an accurate indication of keel socket. Each block is predrilled Cut and shape a piece of the 1/4” where to drill. Begin with holes that are with a hole into which a length of brass x 1-3/8” lattice molding into a triangle about half the diameter of the keel bolts. tubing is to be glued. When at the pond that fits into the bow. Glue it in place us- Compare and measure the keel bolt posi- and the boat is being rigged for launch, ing quick-set epoxy mixed with micro- tions repeatedly as you enlarge the holes the keel bolts protruding from the top balloons so that the top of the wood is while using a round and tapered rat-tail of the keel are to be inserted into these flush with the top edge of the hull. Cut file. Once the holes in the hull-keel socket brass-lined support blocks. A rubber the two sheer strips to proper length so are large enough to allow the keel to be washer, then a metal washer, and then they fit from this block in the bow all inserted, it will be obvious that the keel- a wing nut on each keel bolt secures the the way aft to the transom. These sheer top flange and the keel will need some keel to the boat. When finished sailing strips will serve to strengthen and serve final fitting. Use a sanding block with for the day, the wing nuts are undone as a gluing surface for the deck-to-hull 120-grit paper to shave down the sides and the keel can be removed. joint. Clamps, lots of them (about one- of the keel-top flange. Use 120-grit pa- Preparing the keel-bolt support dozen per side), will be needed to hold per wrapped around a putty knife blade blocks, thwarts, and tubing assemblies the sheer strips in place while glue sets to work inside the hull socket. Slipping is easy. If need be, use the round file up and hardens. C-clamps are good, but a corner of a piece of paper in, around, to make the holes in the blocks and expensive. What works well are “paper and about the gap between keel flange thwarts large enough to allow the tub- clamps,” available from the office supply and hull socket will readily indicate where ing to be inserted readily. You will want store. The paper clamps to get are shiny more sanding is needed. At places where the tubing to extend from the top of black in color, have two “U” shaped the paper gauge won’t pass, and instead the block by the 1/4” thickness of the squeeze-handles, measure 1-1/4” wide, gets stuck, are where you make a pencil thwart. The tubing should extend about and open to a “bite” of 1/2 inch. Run mark and need to do more sanding. 1/16” from the bottom of the block so it a perimeter of masking tape all around Both keel top and hull socket have a extends down into the hole in the hull- the outside top edge of the hull so as to seam running fore and aft where the two keel socket. Scuff up the outside of the catch any glue run-off. Before mixing up molded halves have been joined. Hart- brass tubing with coarse sandpaper so the glue, do a “dry run” with the clamps man does do a careful job of trying to as to provide “tooth” for the glue that so as to be certain you have enough minimize this seam, but it does exist, and will secure it in the wooden block. Use a clamping power to hold the sheer strips it does need to be smoothed flat. A filler cotton swab from the medicine cabinet tight to the hull. Mix up micro-balloons such as NHP’s Micro-Fill, available from to spread epoxy glue inside the block with slow-setting epoxy glue, not the the hobby shop, works well and is easy and on the tubing. Put a hole in the cen- quick-set stuff—you will need time to to sand. Then too, lots of micro-bal- ter of each keel thwart (K1, K2, and K3 do this job. Using an acid brush, apply loons mixed with a little bit of the poly- on the list of wooden parts) just large the glue mixture to both one enough so that the thwart can side of the sheer strip and fit down outside the tubing to the inside top one-inch and flush against the top of the of the hull. Line up the top block. Cut and trim the keel edge of the sheer strips with thwarts to size by using a 6” the top edge of the hull as pocket ruler to measure from you put on the clamps. Use the keel bolt over to where the the acid brush to tidy up the thwart will meet the hull. Plan glue underneath the sheer to cut the ends of each keel strips. Let harden overnight. thwart at about a 45-degree Next day, remove the clamps angle so that it meets neatly the and use an 80-grit sanding upward curve of the hull. Trim block to bring the top of the these ends to perfection with sheer strip flush with the line a sanding block. Thwarts that 14 Issue 147 Model Yachting Magazine © Spring Issue, 2007 turn out a little short are okay. Epoxy install the keel blocks and keel thwarts. post, and thwart in place. Don’t forget glue will later fill in any gaps. Drill a 1/8” hole in the hull where Hart- to clean and sandpaper the surfaces to Make a final inspection to see that man has made an indentation indicat- prepare for gluing. Don’t forget to add the keel top, keel socket, brass tubing, ing the rudder location. Use a round micro-balloons to the epoxy. Use ny- keel blocks, and keel thwarts all fit as file to enlarge the hole so that the rud- lon reinforcing tape when applying the they should. On the top of the keel, use der shaft fits into it. Using a file to en- second layer of glue. When the glue has pieces of office-type transparent tape to large the hole, rather than a large drill dried, this will be a good time to install mask off around each keel bolt. Use a bit, minimizes the risk of chipping the a screw eye on top of the rudder thwart cotton swab to apply a little paste wax or fiberglass. Make a little piece of wood and about 1/2” to port of the rudder- grease to the taped areas, the keel bolts, with a hole in it that is large enough post. This screw eye will later be used to and the inside of the brass tubing. When for the brass tubing rudderpost to pass secure the small rubber band that holds we epoxy the blocks and thwarts in place, through. This will provide a sturdy and the rudder hatch in place. It’s no easy we do not want the keel itself to get stuck leak-proof base to the post. Wax or trick to install this screw eye once the to the hull by glue that’s in the deck is installed! wrong places. The tape, the After the epoxy has had a wax, and then removing the day to cure hard, remove the keel before the epoxy sets com- keel and rudder. Use medium pletely hard will prevent the sandpaper wrapped around problem. a pencil point to taper and Concern about acciden- smooth the four sharp-edged tally gluing the keel shell per- hole openings. A light touch manently in place can be mini- with a countersink or pointy- mized. Glue the thwart-blocks shaped grinding-stone bit will in place one at a time. Hold the work even better. keel in place by having the two other thwart-blocks held in Step Five: Fitting and Gluing place by their wing nuts. Use the Deck Thwarts quick-set epoxy as the glue. Install a thwart and block; wait until grease the rudder shaft and the inside of An effective way to mark the sheer the glue appears to be hard; remove the rudderpost. Make a pencil mark 64” strips, so that the deck thwarts turn the three wing nuts; tap gently straight aft the bow on each side of the hull just out to be square to the centerline of down on the top of the bolt with a ham- outside the sheer strips. Insert the rud- the boat, is to hang the hooked end of mer handle and jiggle the keel free. Re- der into the hull, and use a tape measure a steel tape measure on the tip of the peat the procedure, one at a time, for the from the pencil marks to the tip of the bow; then bring the tape measure back other block-thwart assemblies. You are rudder to find the perfect vertical posi- on an angle to a point 12” aft on one of asking for grief by attempting to epoxy tion. Also as a double check, install the the sheer strips and make a pencil mark. all three thwart blocks in place at the keel and eyeball the rudder alignment Next, swing the tape measure over to the same time. from the stern. To hold the rudder in other sheer strip and make a mark at 12 At this point, it would be good to position, use a length of tape from one inches. These matching marks indicate refer to Step 7 of this article, Radio and pencil mark on the hull over the bot- where the first deck support thwart, T1, SCU Installation, and drill the holes in the tom tip of the rudder and then over to is to be installed. Repeat the procedure keel-block thwarts needed for the mount- the other pencil mark on the other side at 24” for T2, 32” for T3 and its doubler ing board screws. Once the deck thwarts of the hull. Folded-over business cards T4, 47” for T5 and its doubler T6, and and carry handles are in place, it will be wedged fore and aft of the rudder shaft at 56” for T7. difficult getting in there with a drill. will ensure the fore and aft centering of It is very important that the Maxi- the rudder. Drill a hole in the center of mum Beam Gauge remain taped in Step Four: Installing Transom the rudder thwart (wooden part RT) to place while working on this next step. Thwart and Rudder accommodate the rudderpost. Measure, Carefully cut and trim T3 to the length cut, and sand a hull-conforming taper necessary for it to span the hull at 32” T8, the piece of wood needed to for- to the ends of the thwart. You will want aft of the bow so that it will not cause tify the transom, is next to be fitted and the thwart to be level, perpendicular any affect to the beam. Cut both ends glued. After some careful cutting and to the hull centerline, and rest about of this 1” high thwart so as to provide a shaping to fit T8 against the sheer strips 1/2” down on the 2-1/2” rudderpost. If notch that meets the fiberglass hull and, and transom, glue it in place. After the it happens that one side of the rudder in effect, hooks under the sheer strip. A glue has hardened use an 80-grit sand- thwart turns out to be a tad longer than razor-saw and sanding block are ideal ing block to shape the top of the wood the other, don’t worry about it. As long tools for this job. Hold off doing any to meet the 1/8” crown indicated by the as the rudder itself looks and measures, gluing. Once T3 is fitted and ready, then scribed line on the fiberglass transom. outside the hull, as being straight, that’s prepare T6 the same way. These two The technique for installing the rud- what is most important. thwarts will provide the end attachments derpost is much the same as that used to When all looks right, glue the base, for the two, 5/8” diameter, 15” long, American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 15 is too small and then have the screw the handle, and then make another com- cause the dowel to split. plete wrap around the handle. Repeat the To mark T3 and T6 where holes for procedure six times on each of the four the handle screws belong, mark the cen- joints. Don’t overlap the wraps on top ter of each thwart, and then measure of each other. Dress them tightly side- and mark 3-1/4” out from each side of by-side. Smother the wraps with CA and the center, thereby locating the handles then with epoxy glue to fuse everything 6-1/2” apart from each other. Mark the together. It will probably require the use screw-hole locations to be 5/16” above of a hatchet if ever it comes time to take the bottom edge of the thwart. This these joints apart! 5/16” is the radius of the dowel and will Final beam measurement at indi- result in the bottom edge of the dowel vidual deck thwarts: T1 at 12 inches being flush with the bottom edge of the aft the bow is about 6-3/8 inches, T2 at thwart. These holes should be slightly 24 inches aft is about 10-5/8 inches, T3 larger than the threads of the screws to doubled to T4 at 32 inches aft is about allow the dowels to be drawn tight to 12-3/8 inches, T5 doubled to T6 at 47 the thwarts when the time comes. Screw inches aft is about 12-1/8 inches, and this four-part assembly together without T7 at 56 inches aft is about 10 inches. gluing, and then check its fit in the hull. Look to see that T3 and T6 meet their Step Six: Other Below-Deck Wooden fore and aft location marks on the sheer Parts strips, and that it does not distort the hull and cause any disagreement with Wooden parts labeled S1 and S2 the maximum beam gauge. In case there are stringers that run fore and aft under is some distortion or inadvertent twist the deck, except where there is a hatch in the assembly, ease the screws about opening and at the very bow and stern one turn. Use tape to squeeze the hull where they are really not needed. They and hold the assembly in place while provide a back-up for the jib tack fit- you cut and fit T4 and T5. T4 will be ting, a sturdy mast step, a back-up for glued to the aft side of T3 so it rests on the sheet exit guides and provide an ap- top the dowels. T5 will be glued to the pearance-pleasing crown to the deck. forward side of T6 so it, too, rests on top the dow- els. Using slow-set epoxy, glue everything together and in place. Even though the han- dles are glued and screwed together, have doubler thwarts and ledges, plan to apply a second layer of epoxy. This second layer should make use of nylon reinforcement tape over the top, the end of each thwart, and then down the side of the hull. The second layer of epoxy on birch dowel boat-carry handles. (It’s a the dowel-to-thwart joints real joy to be able to launch and retrieve needs some reinforce- the boat using only one hand—a hand ment. Cut four, 5’ lengths that stays dry.) Thwarts T3, T6, and the of 45 lb fishing (sheet) line dowels are best assembled with screws to use as a wrap. Devel- while on the workbench and then later oping a wrapping pattern installed in place as a unit. Into the end is easy. First make a 360- and center of each dowel, drill a hole to degree wrap around the accommodate a 1-1/2” #4 self-tapping dowel; then bring both screw. Select the drill bit carefully. You ends up from under the want the screw thread to bite the wood, thwart, over the top of the but you do not want to make a hole that thwart, back down under 16 Issue 147 Model Yachting Magazine © Spring Issue, 2007 No matter what style of deck you Wooden Parts E1 and E2 are back- of a screwdriver, the slots on the end are planning for a S/B, you need a up blocks that will provide a solid ma- of the board make removing and rein- stringer that, in effect, runs in a straight terial for screwing down the chainplate stalling the SCU a simple matter. line from tip of the bow to top of the hardware. They are glued to the sheer The 1/8” plywood radio board, transom. Flat sheet material, used as strips just forward of T3-T4. Since Wooden Part RB, will be screwed at its decking, does not respond happily to the deck is crowned over the back-up corners to K2 and K3. The forward edge being curved in more than one direc- blocks, you need to avoid any gap be- and the aft edge of this board need to tion. Funky things happen when a deck tween them and the underside of the be notched in order to clear the keel bolt is both bent down to meet the sheer decking. It happens, conveniently, that wing nuts. Make a cutout to accommo- strips and, at the same time, bent down the built-in outward angle of the sheer date the rudder servo. Install the receiver to match any sheer in the mid-section of strip’s inboard flat side provides a ready- and battery to either side of the rudder the boat. In order to maintain a straight- to-use gluing surface at the correct angle servo with Velcro. Use a length of fiber- line sheer, plan to install wooden spac- to match the deck crown. When gluing, glass arrow shaft and nylon clevis fittings ers on tops of the thwarts to support the allow the block to be up about 1/16” to make a rudder pushrod. Depending stringer at the right height. Resting the higher than the sheer strip. Once the on the height of the servo and the height tip of S1 directly on T1 provides the 1/4” glue has set, use a ruler across the hull, of the rudder control arm, it might be rise desired at this location. A total of bending it down over the stringer as if necessary to sand away a portion of T7’s 1/2” rise from top of T2 to top of S1 will to imitate the crown of the deck. Look underside so as to keep it from rubbing be provided by installing a scrap piece to see if it might be necessary to use the against the control rod. of the wooden lattice molding. Wooden sanding block to bring down any high There are a variety of different ways Part B, on top of double thwart T3-T4, spots on the chainplate back-up blocks. of routing the sheets from the SCU to the needs to be trimmed to provide 5/8” to- booms. The method used here provides tal rise. Wooden Part C goes on top of Step Seven: Radio and SCU for the sheets to be dead-ended at the double thwart T5-T6 and is also adjust- booms and be adjusted by tying off to ed to a 5/8” rise. Wooden Part D, resting Installation deck mounted cleats. One end of the jib on T7, should be trimmed to provide a The Sail Control Unit most often sheet gets hooked to a screw eye on the 1/2” rise. Use quickset epoxy to fix the used with the S/B is the swinging arm jib boom. From there, it passes through risers in position. Deck stringers S1 and variety. The best reason to opt for the a hole in the deck (All holes in the deck S2 are to be positioned and glued so swinging arm over the drum type is that will be drilled later after the deck is in- that only about 1/4” of their ends pro- the jib boom is noticeably shorter than stalled). From there it goes down to the trude into the main hatch opening. the main boom. The span from jib tack turning block mounted on Wooden Part Wooden Part A is intended to be swivel back to the jib sheet attachment A and makes a 90-degree turn aft to the a combination vertical mast-step sup- point is about 13 inches. The span from swinging arm. It then makes a 180-de- port and a key functional part of the gooseneck aft to where the mainsheet is gree turn through a rounded hole in the swinging arm SCU sheeting system. It attached to the main boom is about 19 arm and, then, forward in the direction is angled from the hull floor just ahead inches. With a swinging arm sail control of the turning block to the screw eye in- of the hull-keel socket, then up and for- there are holes spaced about a half-inch stalled in Wooden Block Part A. From ward to rest on the aft side of T2 and apart. Using the hole 4” out from the the screw eye, it can be led through an- also make contact with the underside of arm’s pivot will provide the ideal 15” of other hole in the deck where it can then S1. Cut the base of Part A on an angle travel for the jib sheet as the arm rotates be tied to a conveniently accessible cleat that conforms to the floor of the hull. through a range of 160 degrees. Using the near the mast. Then cut the top end so that it meets hole 5-1/2” out on the arm provides 21” The main sheet runs from the main under S1 and the aft side of T2. Before of ideal mainsheet travel. Using an SCU boom directly down through the deck gluing it into place, drill two small holes having a single arm mounted to one side and all the way forward to the turning about 2” down from the top. Both holes of the boat, versus a double or two sided block on Wooden Part A. After being are centered and are about 1/4” apart, arm mounted on the centerline, allows led through the turning block, it goes one above the other. The holes should more convenient access to the keel bolts. back aft and through a hole in the be large enough to accommodate four The piece of 1/8” plywood used as arm. From the arm, it goes 180 degrees or five wraps of sheeting line that will an SCU mounting board, Wooden Part forward to that same screw eye it will be used to lash a PeKaBe #525 double- WB, needs to have a hole cut out, in share with the jib sheet and, then, up sheave block tight to the aft side of Part order to accommodate the electronics through a hole in the deck to its own A. Give this lashing and the holes it on the underside of the SCU. Also, two cleat. The lead of the mainsheet might passes through a dose of CA. This will holes need to be made in the aft end look a little convoluted, but it works. keep the block from flopping around. of the board for the screws to secure it Those deck-mounted cleats make it About 2-1/2” below the turning block, to K2. Two slots, instead of holes, need easy to adjust sheets between races. install a screw eye. Glue Part A in place to be made in the forward end so as to A length of inner-section, flexible, using a few pieces of nylon reinforce- allow the board to be slipped in or out nylon tubing push-rod allows a sheet to ment tape at the base and some wraps from under two screw heads perma- run through it with very little friction— of line around T2 so as to keep it from nently set in T1. Since these two for- even around turns and bends. Use it as ever breaking loose. ward screws will be out of easy reach “sheet plumbing.” Use CA glue to hold American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 17 nylon tubing in place where it passes away, this tape will provide a visual sig- it over, right side up. Drop a screw into through holes in the wood. nal that it’s time to switch the sanding the pre-drilled hole in the deck intended block from coarse to fine sandpaper. for the jib tack fitting. Drop a screw into Step Eight: Gluing On the Deck Carefully position the deck on the the pre-drilled hole in the deck intended hull and use a few pieces of tape to hold for the backstay fitting. Carefully lower The grand finale of all this prepara- it in place. Drill a lead hole 12” aft of the the bow end of the deck over the hull tion work is the installation of the deck. bow where the jib-tack deck fitting is to and line up the screw with the hole pre- At this time, it is a good idea to water- be installed. Then use a larger drill to drilled in the bow stringer. While hold- proof all wood surfaces—all sides—with enlarge the hole in the deck material to ing up the aft end of the deck a few a coat of slow-setting epoxy glue. (The clearance-hole size. Use a small screw to inches above the hull, give the screw a waterproof slow-setting epoxy should temporarily fasten the deck to the string- few turns so as to keep the bow station- be able to cover up the sins of the not- er. Important: A hole in fiberglass must ary. Avoid smearing the glue as you fin- so-waterproof quick-set epoxy used in be bigger than the diameter of any screw ish lowering the deck while keeping it various places in the assembly process.) passing through it. Otherwise, as you in line with the screw intended for the drive in the backstay fitting. When both screws are screw, you tightened snug, the deck will not slide risk chip- out of alignment. ping the Grab the roll of duct tape. Tear off fiberglass an 18” length. Starting from the area of s u r f a c e . the hatch, and applying the tape across Rely on the beam; use it to bring down and clamp the smaller the deck to both sides of the hull. Apply hole drilled more tape strips, while working from in the wood this first tape, towards the bow and al- under the ternately towards the stern. Leave about hole in the one inch between tapes so that a portion fiberglass of the joint is visible all around the boat. to provide The space between tapes will allow you to bite for see if the tape has stretched and allowed the screw any small gaps to develop anywhere thread. Do along the joint. In order to correct any l i k e w i s e gaps that may have developed, it will be with a screw necessary to pull the tape away, stretch it at the center tight, and reattach it. Once the tapes have Leave bare of glue the top surfaces of of the transom top where the backstay made a Zebra pattern from bow to stern the sheer strips and the stringers. A spe- fitting will eventually be installed. These check for any gaps; then go ahead and cial sanding block should be used in or- two screws will serve as guides when double up on the tape. The stuff is cheap. der to prepare the sheer strips for instal- lowering the deck into place on top of Cover the spaces between the first layer lation of the deck. To a foot-long piece wet glue. And, they will keep the deck of tapes and make the boat look like a of wood “one-by-two,” cover 6” of a centered and stationary as duct tape is mummy. When finished with the taping, wide side with coarse sandpaper. While being applied during the deck-to- the portion of this sanding block bare hull gluing process. of sandpaper rides along the stringer Have handy a big roll of duct and the portion having the sandpaper tape. Mix up about two ounces of makes contact with the top of a sheer slow-set epoxy with enough micro- strip, go around the entire boat, sanding balloons added so that it is very the top of the sheer strip. While sanding, slow to drip or run. With an acid look to see that there are no high spots brush, first apply glue to the top on the wood that might prevent the fi- and sides of stringers S1 and S2. berglass deck from making contact with Use a dabbing or scraping tech- the fiberglass hull. Pay careful attention nique to apply a good quantity of to the areas near the bow and the tran- glue to the tops of the sheer strips som where the deck will meet the hull. and transom. With the deck bot- Because the deck material bends only so tom-up on the workbench, brush much, these areas need be nearly flat. glue all around the one-inch out- Apply a double layer of masking side edges where it will meet the tape all around the hull, keeping the sheer strips and along the deck tape flush with the hull’s top edge. Later, centerline where it will meet the once the deck is glued down and ready stringers. Handling the deck by the for the deck overhang to be trimmed hatch opening with one hand, turn Photo by Mike Kelley 18 Issue 147 Model Yachting Magazine © Spring Issue, 2007 RMG SAILWINCH Rod Carr, Sailmaker 3011-177th Ave. NE SmartWinch Redmond, WA 98052-5825

High speed, high torque intelligent winches Phone: (425) 881-2846 . ARR SAILS www.users.bigpond.com/rmgsw Fax: (425) 869-7306 E-mail: [email protected] 66 Radford Rd [email protected] Angaston 5353 ph: 61 8 8564 2444 Web Site: http://CarrSails.com SOUTH AUSTRALIA fax: 61 8 8564 3474 Quality Model Yacht Sails For ALL R/C Racing Classes, Scale and Vintage Since 1969 turn the boat upside down and leave it As the excess is sanded away, keep an leaving A.J. Fisher as the only source of that way overnight. With the boat upside eye on the masking tape. When you see rigging and deck hardware. Today, A.J. down, glue will flow and create a filet at scratches on the tape, it is time to switch Fisher hardware is also no longer avail- the deck-to-sheer-strip joint. to finer 120-grit sandpaper and start able. This, the third version of the article, The next day is the earliest time to sanding in a fore and aft direction. will also be printed in two parts. Part II right the boat, deck up, and to peel off This article about putting together a of Assembling a Santa Barbara will be the duct tape. Carefully start sanding S/B short kit was first written in 1979. It published in the next issue, No. 148, of away the excess deck overhang and ex- was published as a booklet available from Model Yachting. Part II will describe the cess hardened epoxy that has squeezed the AMYA Ship’s Store. At that time, we rigging of a S/B while using hardware fit- overboard. Resist the urge to go at it with had three reliable sources of deck and tings available today from Ludwig Mfg. a power disc sander. Eighty-grit sandpa- rigging hardware: Vortex Model Engi- and GBMY. per on a sanding block is a low-risk way neering, Probar Design, and A.J. Fisher. In addition to being about rigging to do the job. Apply sanding pressure By the time the article was revised and the boat’s deck and spars with fittings only in a downward motion from deck reprinted as a two-part article in the Fall and hardware, Part II will also describe towards hull. Think in terms of pushing 1999, Issue No. 117 and Winter 1999, Is- loading and solidifying the lead shot down on the glue joint and not pushing sue No. 118 of Model Yachting, Vortex ballast in the Hartman keel. in the direction of opening the glue joint. and Probar were gone from the market,

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American Model Yachting Association © 2007 Issue 147 19