TheMountaineer I The Mountaineer 1967 Cover photo: South Fork Cascade Glacier, Lizard (left), Blue Mountain (center back) and Mabel Mountain (right). Dick Brooks Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office, Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and April by The Mountaineers, P.O. Box 122, Seattle, Washington, 98ll l. Clubroom is at 719Y:! Pike Street, Seattle. Subscription price monthly Bulletin and Annual, $4.00 per year. Copyright 1967 by THE MOUNTAINEERS, Seattle, Washington The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of North­ west America; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfill­ ment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor life. EDITORIAL STAFF Betty Manning, Editor, Arnold Bloomer, Donna DeShazo, Gladys Chandler, Loretta Slater, William Stark Material and photographs should be submitted to The Mountaineers, P.O. Box, 122, Seattle, Washington 98111, before November I, 1967, for consideration. Photographs must be 5x7 glossy prints, bearing caption and photographer's name on back. The Mountaineer Climbing Code A climbing party of three is the mm1mum, unless adequate support is available who have knowledge that the climb is in progress. On crevassed glaciers, two rope teams are recommended. Carry at all times the clothing, food and equipment necessary. Rope up on all exposed places and for all glacier travel. Keep the party together, and obey the leader or majority rule. Never climb beyond your ability and knowledge. Judgment will not be swayed by desire when choosing the route or turning back. Leave the trip schedule with a responsible person. Follow the precepts of sound mountaineering as set forth in Mountaineering: The Fr�edom of the Hills and the Manual of Ski Mountaineering. Deport ourselves at all times in a manner that will not reflect unfavorably upon our club or upon mountaineering. Mt. Rainier Mabel Furry The Mountaineer 1967 Vol. 60, No. 5, April, 1967-0rganized 1906-Incorporated 1913 CONTENT S Mining the Wilderness, by Rodger W. Pegues .. ... ... ... ........... 8 Dome Peak-1966, by Ken H. Hunich and Harold]. Wollak 26 Evaluating the Mineral Potential of the North Cascades Primitive Area-or Mountains I Wished I Could Have Climbed, by Rowland W. Tabor .................................... 29 Enchantment-What's in a Name, by Margaret P. Stark ........ 41 Kyuquot Diary by Ward Irwin .................................................. 50 The Real Tolmie's Peak, by Gene Faure ............................ 61 Mt. Logan, St. Elias Range, by Lee West and Len Waller ... 72 In Memoriam .... ...... ............ .......................................................... 75 Charter Members ... ...... ..... ........ .. ... .............. ......... .... .... .......... ... 76 Mt. Seattle-19 Days a·t the 60th Parallel, by Fred Beckey .... 81 The Western Chugach-Anchorage's Backyard Wilderness, by William E. Hauser ........................................................ 90 Then and Now, by Loretta Slater ............................................ 99 Glacier Peak Wilderness Area Outing, by Don Page ............ 108 Suiattle River Loop Trip, by Marguerite Bradshaw .............. 112 From Stevens to Snoqualmie with the Viewfinders, by Charles L. Shipley ............................................................ 116 The Great Nine Day Traverse (Watson-Bacon-Hagen- Blum), by Harry Wollak .................................................... 119 Campcrafters Gypsy Tour-Grand Tetons, by Byron Clark 124 Climbing Notes, Edited by Arnold Bloomer .......................... 128 Administration and Committee Reports ................................ 138 Statement of Financial Condition, 1965-1966 ........................ 149 Officers and Committee Chairmen ............................................ 159 ILLU STR AT ION S Watercolor, Mt. Rainier, by Mabel Furry . 6 Map, Enchantment Lakes Area, by William Stark ................ 49 Map, Mt. Rainier, USGS Quadrangle .................................... 71 Map, Western Chugach Area, USGS Quadrangle ................ 98 Pictures ................ ..... ....... ............... ... .. 17-20, 37-40, 57-60, 77-80 Mining the Wilderness By RODGER W. PEGUES* Mountains are earth's undying monuments-Hawthorne Bare steeps where desolation stalks-Wordsworth Introduction Miner's Ridge in the North Cascades of Washington is reached by a long, hard hike into the Glacier Peak Wilderness Area. The ridge is accessible from several directions, one of the most fre­ quently used being the trail up the Suiattle valley from the west. a distance of about 15 miles from the roadhead and a climb from near sealevel to around 6,000 feet. Most of the way is heavily forested, but around 4,000 feet the forest gradually disappears. From 5,000 to 6,000 feet and above, slender stringers and isolated stands of alpine fir lend a dark green color to the fabric, but for the most part the ridge becomes bare of trees, being covered instead with a rich carpet of lush grasses and a colorful assortment of flowering plants. The ridge runs northwest by southeast. On its northeast face, the ridge drops almost vertically into the valley of Canyon Creek. On the southwest face, the ridge rolls and plunges into the heavily forested Suiattle valley. Across the way looms Glacier Peak, monarch of the North Cascades, glacier scarred and capped with perpetual snow. Image Lake, the ridge's crown jewel, lies tucked away in its own small bowl amidst the slopes and meadows of the ridge. When the air is still, Glacier Peak lies reflected on the lake's surface. Thousands of slides and color prints testify to the beauty of the scene. The North Cascades Study Team, an inter-agency federal com­ mittee, classified the site as a "unique natural area," a classifica­ tion requiring the preservation of natural conditions. The Na· tional Park Service members of the Study Team recommended that the area be the core of a new national park, a recommenda­ tion earlier arrived at by several conservation societies, including The Mountaineers, the Sierra Club, the North Cascades Con­ servation Council, and the Federation of Western Outdoor Clubs. Unfortunately, much of the area rests upon a deposit of low-grade copper ore, and there is every indication that the com­ pany which owns the patented lands and surrounding claims in­ tends to begin an open-pit mining operation in the immediate future, perhaps this year. • Former Northwest Conservation Representative. Kennecott 9 The Nature of the Threat Kennecott, the owner through wholly owned subsidiaries of the claims and patents, has been less than specific about its plans. Some information has been made public, however, and a general picture of the operation can be drawn. The mine itself will be an open-pit operation. Presumably it will be centered at or near the company's patented lands, that is, about a thousand feet below the summit of Plummer Mountain on the southwest face of Miner's Ridge. The pit would be around one-half mile in diameter and could be considerably larger. The slope is steep in this vicinity, and considerable scarring and ero­ sion is likely. Various mining works, buildings, equipment, and electric lines and facilities would be located in and around the vicinity of the pit. Some means of access to the pit together with some means of moving extracted ores from the site to a processing plant would also be necessary. Roads, trams, or funicular railway are likely alternatives. Kennecott plans to install a concentrator in the Suiattle valley, presumably on land it claims as a millsite on Miner's Creek. The concentrator would reduce the ore, leaving a higher-grade residue on the one hand for shipment to the smelter (not located in or near the area) and a residue of very low-grade waste on the other hand for deposit in the area, presumably on the millsite. A similar operation at Holden, a now abandoned copper and gold mine on the other side of the mountain, left a vast pile of toxic waste material which carried by winds, destroys surrounding vegetation and, carried by waters, has destroyed the fishery in Railroad Creek and threatens similar destruction in the upper portion of Lake Chelan. The company will need surface access from the existing road­ head at the wilderness-area boundary near Sulfur Creek to the millsite-about 7 miles-and then beyond-another 7 or 8 miles­ to the mine. The company probably plans a road; however, a narrow-gauge railroad may be a reasonable alternative. Design and location of surface access will have a significant effect upon the degree of impact on wilderness and scenic values. For this reason, the Forest Service will want to regulate design and loca­ tion most closely and carefully. In addition to surface access, the company will also need ease­ ments across Forest Service lands for power, water, and perhaps, telephone communication. The capacity required by the com­ pany to operate will determine the scope of the burden which may be imposed upon the forest lands. Design and location will, 10 The Mountaineer as with surface access, have a significant effect upon the degree of impact, and the Forest Service will want to control them in the same way as it will surface access. Finally, the company has indicated that it will need