[ Research Paper ] ISSN 1225-1151 (Print) ISSN 2234-0793 (Online) Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 44, No. 4 (2020) p.749~763 https://doi.org/10.5850/JKSCT.2020.44.4.749
A Study of Viewers' Responses to Luxury Haul Videos on YouTube
Yusun Her⋅Jaehoon Chun† Dept. of Textiles, Merchandising and Fashion Design, Seoul National University Received March 30, 2020; Revised (May 18, 2020; May 26, 2020); Accepted May 28, 2020
Abstract
This study examined how viewers perceived luxury haul videos, what factors made them experience vicar- ious pleasure and gain relative deprivation when watching them. This study conducted an interview with 20 viewers of luxury haul videos. The content obtained from the interview was analyzed by classifying it into aca- demic terms. Cases of vicarious pleasure arose when viewers had sufficient empathy when watching videos, which was intensified by YouTubers' behavior and visual stimulation in videos. A person's relative deprivation due to her financial capabilities or appearance occurred when she compared herself with YouTubers. The more viewers perceived luxury haul as a source of information, the more they felt relative deprivation; in addition, the more they perceived it as entertainment, the more they felt vicarious pleasure. Viewers who had a high le- vel of involvement in luxury goods tended to feel vicarious pleasure; however, viewers with a high level of involvement in YouTubers tended to feel relative deprivation. This study helps luxury brands and YouTubers understand viewers' perception of their products and programs as well as helps in the development of fashion haul videos that are beneficial to viewers. Key words: Luxury haul videos, YouTube, Viewers' responses, Vicarious pleasure, Relative deprivation
I. Introduction tion (Burke et al., 2010). On the other hand, the infor- mation exposed may evoke negative feelings, such as Today, people get pleasure from and are envious of relative deprivation in SNS users (Brown & Tigge- the lives of others, even those with whom they are not mann, 2016), as it causes comparisons with others un- at all acquainted (Gauntlett, 2011). Social media now wittingly as they view their lives (Bessenoff, 2006; Ste- play a crucial role in making it easier to observe the li- ers et al., 2014; Tiggemann & Polivy, 2010). As such, ves of others compared to the past (Wilson et al., 2012). communication on SNS causes both pleasure and envy. This is occurring because people are communicating Being one of the largest social network system ba- their public or private stories and their daily lives thro- sed platform, YouTube allows users to express them- ugh text or visual material on various forms of social selves and communicate with others (Wattenhofer et network services (SNS) (Seidman, 2013; Walther, 2007). al., 2012). Every month 1.9 billion users visit YouTube, Information exposed by media is shared among many and more than a million producers upload video cont- people, many of whom enjoy this type of communica- ent (YouTube, n.d.). Those who produce and upload videos on YouTube are ordinary people within us, and †Corresponding author E-mail: [email protected] thus many viewers can feel empathy for them (Kietz- This article is part of a Master's Thesis. mann et al., 2011). Some examples of the most popular This work was supported by The Research Institute of Hu- content categories are ‘mukbang (which means alive man Ecology, Seoul National University. online audiovisual broadcast in which a host eats food
ⓒ 2020, The Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles. All rights reserved. – 749 – Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 44 No. 4, 2020 while interacting with his audience)’, ‘game broadcas- II. Literature Review ting’, and ‘beauty and fashion’ (Lee, 2018). With re- gard to fashion, there are a variety of contents, including 1. Luxury Haul Videos ‘Get Ready with Me’, ‘Fashion Lookbook’, ‘Unboxing’, and ‘Fashion Haul’. In particular, in what have become The term ‘haul’ can be defined as ‘to pull something known as ‘haul’ videos, YouTubers introduce numer- heavy slowly and with difficulty’, whereas here a ‘haul ous products in a format which has drawn considerable video’ is a video recording in which a person discusses attention from viewers. Specifically, productions kno- items that he/she has recently purchased, sometimes wn as ‘fashion haul’ videos have attracted viewers' going into detail about his/her experiences during the interest. The ‘luxury haul video’ concept, which intro- purchase and the costs of the items (Le, 2010; Tanaka, duces expensive luxury goods in quantity, is emerging 2010). What makes luxury haul videos different from as a social issue in that it causes viewers to experience other product review videos is that YouTubers introduce both vicarious pleasure and relative deprivation at the a variety of items in them (Kang, 2019). The characteri- same time (Born, 2019; Oh, 2018). Vicarious pleasure stic of these haul videos, which show a large amount of refers to satisfaction felt from the behaviors of others, products, is to stimulate viewers' desire for consump- focusing on actions viewers are not able to do themsel- tion (Keats, 2012). Haul videos began to be uploaded ves (Doob & Sears, 1939), while relative deprivation to YouTube in 2007, and as of the end of 2010, at least is an emotion felt when people have a low satisfaction 250,000 of such videos were uploaded (Tanaka, 2010). index while comparing their lives with those of others Therefore, statistically speaking, it is estimated that the (Stouffer et al., 1949). In particular, relative depriva- number of currently uploaded videos is much higher tion can have a negative impact on people's values or than the number of in 2010. lifestyle if they continually experience such feelings. Many young adults, most of whom are females, in- While luxury haul videos can have a positive effect by troduce their purchased goods in this way, appealing to letting viewers experience vicarious pleasure for lux- viewers via reasonable and professional shopping kno- ury items that they cannot easily have, it is worth no- whow gained through their behavior (Romano, 2010). ting that they can also give relative deprivation to view- Among these haul videos, luxury haul videos, which ers. introduce several luxury goods against the backdrop of Hence, this study aimed to examine the characteri- expensive brand shopping bags that everyone knows, stics of actual viewers' emotions when watching luxury have recently become a new trend (Park, 2018). The haul videos. Beyond finding out what kind of emotions luxury haul video concept was initially produced by a viewers were experiencing, this study aims to examine U.S. fashion designer, Jeffree Star
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aims to protect the self by identifying the self with other people or their accomplishments and by satisfying sup- pressed needs. According to a research on vicarious pleasure using an avatar, service users' identification with the avatar is related to vicarious pleasure they ex- perience (Chung, 2004). Moreover, Chung and Choi (2017), in a research on ‘loop watching’ which means the repetitive watching of a short video, also found that the feeling of identification is an antecedent of vicari- ous pleasure. Na (2010) found that people feel vicari- Fig. 1. Jeffree Star's luxury haul video. ous pleasure through empathy with others and immer- Reprinted from Park (2017). https://www.wikitree.co.kr sion in them when they use media for communication and enjoyment. Here, empathy and immersion have the videos. A high price can attract viewers' attention by effect of identification, which can lead to vicarious ple- stimulating them with a high level of topicality (Kim, asure. Therefore, empathy can be said to be a condition 2017). In addition, in luxury haul videos, YouTubers' of vicarious pleasure (Cohen, 2001). Katz (1963) defin- expertise in consumption can be further emphasized. ed empathy as the ability to put oneself in another per- Their videos depict costly goods made by luxury brands, son's shoes, and Davis et al. (1987) considered it to be and they emphasize their expertise while giving detailed a skill with which one can understand others' emotio- explanations about how to buy for less than the normal nal experiences. In other words, it can be said that em- price and how to take advantage of sales seasons (Ro- pathy means one's sympathy with others' feelings from mano, 2010). YouTubers' expertise adds rationality to their position (Na, 2010). luxury purchases, and viewers develop an intention to Yoon (2005) conducted a research on female audi- purchase the luxury goods they view. According to Lee ences, making them watch a typical Cinderella drama, and Watkins (2016), who studied YouTube vloggers and found that they felt vicarious pleasure through em- that influence viewers' perceptions and intentions about pathy with the characters in the drama. In another study luxury products exposed on You-Tube, social attrac- on fantasy drama viewers, Kim and Oh (2009) classi- tiveness and friendly attitude have a greater influence fied vicarious pleasure into two types: one which deri- on viewers' perceptions and inten-tions compared to ved from the feeling of happiness of the main charac- vloggers' physical attractiveness. Therefore, it is pos- ters; one which stems from righteousness of the charac- sible to presume that viewers are more willing to pur- ters struggling against the rich and the powerful. The chase luxury goods through YouTubers with profes- two types of vicarious pleasure mentioned above are sionalism and social appeal rather than through those generated from the viewers' rich empathy with the he- with physical and external attractiveness. roes/heroines in the dramas. In addition to Chung and Choi (2017), there were a 2. Vicarious Pleasure few studies on vicarious pleasure expressed in the me- dia. Most of these studies focused on fictional content Vicarious pleasure refers to the satisfaction people with film or drama characters. Today, along with the feel when others can do something they cannot (Doob & development of social media, vicarious pleasure can Sears, 1939). People form a defense mechanism to pro- generally be experienced on SNS. With the growth of tect themselves against anxiety and tension caused by SNS, numerous people feel vicarious pleasure from the their suppressed needs. Identification, one of the men- lives of SNS celebrities, including influencers and mi- tal defense mechanisms mentioned by Freud (2009), cro-celebrities. Moreover, as fashion and beauty You-
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Tubers have become new fashion icons recently, the menon has become frequent with the rapidly increa- number of people feeling vicarious pleasure from their sing use of SNS (Bergman et al., 2011). Users undertake purchase behaviors or lifestyles is increasing. This con- upward comparison unwittingly while continually view- text also applies to viewers of luxury haul videos pos- ing the lives of others exposed on SNS. Bergman et ted by fashion YouTubers. Because there is no prece- al. (2011) stated that images of an individual are ideal- dent research related to this, it will be meaningful to iden- ized on SNS and quite different from the actual situa- tify how viewers experience vicarious pleasure thro- tion. SNS users focus solely on others' ideal images and ugh empathy with YouTubers. compare them with their lives (Lee & Lee, 2017). Lee and Kim (2017) demonstrated that Instagram users ex- 3. Relative Deprivation perience both positive and negative feelings when view- ing others' postings. According to Haferkamp and People determine their individual satisfaction index Krämer (2011), who conducted a research on relative through comparisons with others who they perceive as deprivation of Facebook users, they showed negative similar to themselves, and they feel relative deprivation evaluations of their bodies after viewing the individual when they have a low satisfaction level (Stouffer et al., profile photos of others. As we can see from the two 1949). Accordingly, the core of relative deprivation lies previous studies, SNS users experienced upward com- in the subjective psychology caused by comparisons parison and felt relative deprivation. In addition to rel- with others rather than in any objective standard. Rela- ative deprivation caused by appearance comparison, tive deprivation refers to negative feelings such as jeal- another research has concentrated on relative depriva- ousy caused by comparisons with those regarded as the tion when comparing lifestyles on SNS (Krasnova et superior to oneself, or by upward comparison (Smith al., 2013). Hence, based on the above research, it can et al., 2012; Yang, 2008). Such relative deprivation is be inferred that relative deprivation of luxury haul vi- a latent emotion in an individual, and it sometimes ne- deo viewers is due to their comparison of their lives gatively affects his/her satisfaction and quality of life with those they view on YouTube. (Smith et al., 2012). Therefore, academic research to A recent trend is that SNS users upload their private understand this emotion has been continued. information, photos, music, and videos onto an online Relative deprivation can be explained by social com- space while also reading and responding to others' pos- parison theory (Festinger, 1954), which states that every tings. Users also occasionally form, maintain and ma- human has the basic desire to evaluate his/her opinions, nage social relationships with others through messages competencies and situations, typically through evalu- and comment functions (Seo, 2017). Currently, users ations based on information acquired from comparison share many things, including their lifestyles and con- with others (Festinger, 1954). According to Yang (2015), sumption activities, through YouTube, where anyone emotional responses from upward comparison vary can upload his/her video content relatively easily. Ac- depending on the characteristics of drama characters. cordingly, YouTube postings without any restriction It was revealed that audiences feel more relative depri- can lead to natural comparison and cause relative dep- vation through upward comparison when a drama cha- rivation to some viewers. This situation also occurs in racter succeeds without much effort in contrast to a the case of viewers of luxury haul videos, who gain the drama character who succeeds with a lot of work. experience of others' consumption behavior in a se- On the other hand, according to Diener and Fujita condhand manner (Oh, 2018; Seo, 2018). (as cited in Yang, 2015) an individual's exposure in the media can make users feel relative deprivation through III. Methods implicit comparison. Media users make comparison with others regardless of their situation. This pheno- This study utilized interviews for empirical research
– 752 – AStudyofViewers' Responses to Luxury Haul Videos on YouTube based on the experience of luxury haul video viewers Table 1. Description of participants in their actual lives. Due to the fact that there was no Participant Age Occupation prior research on what factors caused vicarious plea- P1 20 College student sure or relative deprivation which viewers experienced P2 20 Inoccupation when watching luxury haul videos, this study conduc- P3 21 College student ted a qualitative research to analyze the cause of such P4 21 College student emotion. The reason for selecting a qualitative research P5 22 College student was that we thought it was more appropriate in analy- P6 22 College student zing the cause of human emotions than a quantitative P7 22 College student one which was appropriate for analyzing the correla- P8 25 College student tion of specific factors. This study conducted semi-struc- tured interviews, which allowed us to understand not P9 25 Inoccupation only ‘surface appearances’ but ‘depth realities’ to derive P10 25 Graduate student the extended range of results (Ha-Brookshire & Hod- P11 25 Graduate student ges, 2009). Based on the interviewees' involvement in P12 26 Graduate student YouTube and luxury haul videos, surveys were cond- P13 26 Graduate student ucted to understand the perceptions of viewers on lux- P14 26 Graduate student ury haul videos and their psychological experiences P15 27 Salesperson after watching them. P16 27 Museum curator P17 27 Graduate student 1. Interview Procedures P18 28 Industry designer P19 33 Accountant The research participants were composed of 20 fe- P20 33 A part-time lecturer males who had spontaneously watched more than one luxury haul video (Table 1). The participants were limi- ted to females. According to a search with the key word of this study and a small amount of rewards, was pos- ‘Luxury Haul video’ on YouTube and arranging re- ted on several university bulletin boards and online sults in the order of hits, more than 90% of YouTubers women's communities. Next, we recruited women in were women. Because when viewers discovered com- their 20s and 30s with experience of watching luxury mon characteristics with YouTubers when watching haul videos and of vicarious pleasure or relative depri- videos, they tended to have a psychological feeling like vation. In consideration of the possibility of research- empathy. Next, the research participants were limited ers' access, the recruit announcement for research par- to those between the ages of 20s and 30s, because they ticipants was limited to the Seoul city dwellers. were considered to have financial capabilities to con- Prior to the main interview, a preliminary interview sume luxury goods as adults (Seong & Hong, 2013), was conducted to clarify the validity and credibility of and because Millennials were heavily affected by online- the interview questionnaire. The preliminary interview based content such as YouTube (Duffett et al., 2019). was conducted on a total of three luxury haul videos' After obtaining approval from the relevant review bo- viewers. Through the preliminary interview, it was po- ard, this study recruited interviewees using a purposive ssible to take a general look at how viewers experience sampling method, as they were required to be indivi- vicarious pleasure and relative deprivation when wat- duals who had the same experiences and could express ching the luxury haul videos. their experiences well (Mason, 1996). First of all, the In this study, we did not prepare any stimuli, as all recruitment document, which provided a description participants searched and watched luxury haul videos
– 753 – Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 44 No. 4, 2020 on their own. The luxury haul video watched by the pose types, a questionnaire focusing on perceptions of participants mentioned the word “luxury haul video” luxury haul videos was used here. In order to gain a use- in the title. The most watched video clips were Han ful variety of results beyond the fixed frame, partici- Hye Yeon's. Jeffree Star and Lena's videos were rela- pants were asked what motivated them to watch luxury tively strong in terms of entertainment, while Hanbyul haul videos for the first time, and why they continued and Cheeu's videos had the advantage of providing good to watch them. Based on the definitions of vicarious information. In particular, Han Hye Yeon's videos sho- pleasure by Freud (2009), which holds that it is an in- wed both characteristics of entertainment and infor- dividual's pleasure felt via others' experiences when mation. In the videos of YouTubers mentioned above, one's desires cannot be satisfied due to actual barriers, expensive items from luxury brands such as Gucci, the interviewees were asked whether they had a desire Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermes, Balenciaga, and Prada to purchase luxury goods, or a desire of lifestyle which were exposed. Therefore, the interviews of this study it is possible to purchase luxury goods easily. Subse- were based on the experiences of the participants, whi- quently, they were asked whether they satisfied such ch were related to the above-mentioned luxury brands. desires through luxury haul videos. The basic information for the research participants Next, we continued the interviews to research on the was as follows. Eleven participants were in their early feeling of relative deprivation. Based on the definition 20s, seven in their late 20s, and two in their early 30s. of relative deprivation by Stouffer et al. (1949), who Seven of the college students and graduate students ma- held that it is a negative feeling by which one underes- jored in clothing. Eleven participants had the experi- timates oneself in a comparison with others considered ence of purchasing luxury goods, while the other nine to be similar, this factor was measured by the following had no experience of buying them. Nevertheless, eight questions: how viewers perceived YouTubers, the main participants, except one out of nine who had no experi- hosts of luxury haul videos; what were the similarities ence in purchasing luxury goods, were considering pur- they thought they shared with them; and why they un- chasing 2-3 items in the future. There were no signifi- derestimated themselves. cant differences regarding their behavioral patterns when watching luxury haul videos, and their age differ- 2. Analysis ence showed no differences in their involvement with luxury goods. In addition, the YouTubers who were eli- To analyze the contents collected from the intervie- gible for subscription did not respond differently with wees, this study referred to the phenomenological re- age. search methodology by Giorgi. His phenomenological Interviews lasted approximately one hour and were research methodology, which is adequate for under- conducted at a café according to each participant's cho- standing individual subjective experiences, focuses on osing. Before each interview, the participant was in- illuminating the meanings and essential structures of formed of the research and was required to consent. In experiences in the individual lives of research subjects addition, the interview was recorded. Later, all recor- (Giorgi, 2012). Accordingly, this study selected this ded voices were transcribed in a linguistic form and the methodology, because it was suitable for examining transcribed speeches were utilized to analyze the rese- motives of the participants, and also for examining the arch results. At the end of the interview, the researcher psychological factors they experienced after watching paid 20,000 won to the participants as stated in the no- the videos. Based on Giorgi's phenomenological an- tice. alysis procedure, the entire contents of the interviews Firstly, based on a research by Sung et al. (2007) that were read repeatedly, and their semantic units were cla- categorized UCC (user created contents) into infor- ssified in the statements according to the emotion-rela- mational, entertainment-seeking and commercial pur- ted questionnaire content: their perception on luxury
– 754 – AStudyofViewers' Responses to Luxury Haul Videos on YouTube haul videos, vicarious pleasure, and relative depriva- They argued that the need for video watching was tion. Finally, the semantic units were classified into re- reduced when YouTubers provided them with only com- presentative academic terms, and the modified seman- mon information, but it increased when YouTubers tic units were integrated into the content structure of provided them with new information as fashion expe- this study. rts, which made them feel it was worth the time to wat- ch the videos. IV. Interpretation “When watching luxury haul videos, I felt they were useful, beca- This study explores how viewers perceive luxury use I learned how to keep luxury goods. This was when I went to buy haul videos as a source of entertainment or a source of Balenciaga boots. They gave me enough explanation of the velvet item information. This study identifies factors of luxury haul and also about how to maintain it.” (P15) videos that make the viewers to empathize and to ex- perience vicarious pleasures as well as factors that make In contrast, other viewers emphasized the other as- the viewers compare themselves to YouTubers and feel pect of luxury haul videos, entertainment. They reported relative deprivation. that these videos had the specific characteristic of int- roducing luxury goods but were merely one type of po- 1. Luxury Haul Videos as a Source of Infor- sting provided on the YouTube platform. Accordingly, mation or Entertainment it was more important for the videos to entertain view- ers rather than to provide professional information. In general, viewers' perceptions of luxury haul vi- Moreover, they reported that luxury haul videos must deos were divided into two, one as a source of informa- display many types of goods to stimulate viewers in an tion and the other as entertainment. entertaining manner. First, not only seven college students and graduate students majoring in clothing but also office workers “They say ten million won in the video title, but there are only two who are interested in fashion were also watching lux- or three goods. It's depressing. I think, ‘Why do they have only this?’ ury haul videos for information. Viewers who wanted …” (P4) to gain information through luxury haul videos stated that they should focus more on the acquisition of cor- Moreover, among viewers who perceived luxury rect and efficient information than on entertainment. haul videos as entertainment, five participants made They insisted that luxury haul videos should provide much of the prices mentioned in the video titles. Pre- them with reliable information and help them reduce senting the total sum of the goods in the video title be- the trouble of finding paths. In fact, YouTubers of lux- came an element for pursuing video differentiation and ury haul videos tried to offer information on a brand it- for attracting viewers' attention with the increase of lux- self as well as on products. In addition, they provided ury haul videos on YouTube. YouTubers were gra- a variety of explanation about how to coordinate and dually starting to introduce more luxury goods and to store goods, showing that YouTubers could demons- mention higher prices in the video titles. Several view- trate their professionalism in their consumption beha- ers reported dissatisfaction when the cost presented vior, and that viewers could also gain considerable in- was only one million Korean won. formation by watching their videos (Romano, 2010). The number of viewers who perceived luxury haul “In the past when seeing a title, I only thought, ‘How many things videos as a source of information was eleven, and they did they buy with this amount? What did they buy?’ These days, if they demanded YouTubers' professionalism in video pro- say it's a few million-won worth of haul, I think, ‘Eh? Maybe they bou- duction. ght one or two items.’…” (P7)
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Viewers who perceived luxury haul videos as enter- due to financial difficulties. Through interviews with tainment also emphasized the importance of com- the participants, this study examined when viewers ex- ments. They stated that they enjoyed reading the com- perienced vicarious pleasure most. According to the ments when they did not enjoy the video, also noting results, it was found that they experienced it when they that they were interested in reading comments critici- had sufficient empathy for the content, which was fur- zing the goods introduced in the video or comments ther intensified by emotional factors such as an exag- showing evidence of divergent opinions among view- gerated reaction by YouTubers, the visual stimulation ers. of the videos, or a detailed description by YouTubers. In particular, they felt vicarious pleasure through emo- “It's been a while since I watched luxury haul videos. I was bored tional stimuli while watching YouTubers expressing and so read the comments right away. Luxury haul videos' comments delight or through the visual beauty of the goods. have a lot of controversy. There are persons unconditionally saying, The first factor that allowed viewers to empathize “You're pretty” and persons saying, “Why is she saying that?” I'm with YouTubers was an exaggerated reaction. As men- excited at such issues.” (P17) tioned by Katz (1963) and Davis et al. (1987), empathy is to experience the feelings of others. Here, it showed Regardless of the perception of luxury haul videos the fact that emotional reactions by other viewers were as a source of information or entertainment, viewers important, and, in such cases, viewers experienced em- read comments about the postings without exception pathy and vicarious pleasure. Most viewers reported to satisfy their needs. This demonstrated again that com- that they felt their heart flutter when the YouTube pos- ments played an influential role on the YouTube plat- ter of the video ripped off the wrapping paper of a pro- form. duct and felt vicarious pleasure when thinking that they Whether the viewers perceived luxury haul videos would buy the product someday, and when viewing the as a source of information or entertainment, viewers' vigorous reactions in the videos. Therefore, in luxury standard and taste were diversified when selecting lux- haul videos, it was very important for YouTubers to ury goods. Viewers, who were greatly interested in lu- keep their recently purchased goods packaged before xury goods but lacked in expertise due to insufficient showing them to viewers. YouTubers unboxed luxury purchase experience, reported that they began to con- goods they purchased at a store in front of viewers and sider aspects they had ignored and changed their prio- showed true reactions, mentioning the styling of fash- rities and standards when selecting luxury goods with ion products they owned and suggesting places to use the knowledge from watching videos. This also indi- them. YouTubers produced their videos in order for cated that viewers came to have diversified tastes as viewers to experience the possession of luxury goods they became acquainted with products with YouTubers' in a secondhand way through them. explanation or reaction. Moreover, viewers, who were very interested in the particular YouTubers, especially “At first, I thought why would they make such contents on earth, in cases of positive interest, imitated their attitudes, spe- but when actually watching them, I thought they were so cute. I was ech styles, and behaviors. feeling better while seeing them showing off.” (P9)
2. Empathy and Vicarious Pleasure The second factor for empathy was the visual stimu- lation from the videos. Some viewers, who could not In agreement with the theories of Freud (2009), view- buy luxury goods, experienced vicarious pleasure thro- ers who felt vicarious pleasure from luxury haul vi- ugh empathy not only via the reactions of fashion You- deos were generally those who had a high level of invol- Tubers, but also when they were visually stimulated vement in luxury goods, but could not consume them by the luxury goods shown on the videos. According
– 756 – AStudyofViewers' Responses to Luxury Haul Videos on YouTube to Cacioppo and Petty (1983), empathy is connected past. There were also viewers who could not purchase to excitement of the nervous system. Visual stimula- luxury goods not only due to their financial resources tion causes excitement in viewers, and these rich feel- but because of their temporal or geographical limita- ings make empathy possible. One type of visual sti- tion. Because they could not purchase luxury goods or muli in the luxury haul videos was the number of luxury visit a store due to these limitations, they felt vicarious goods. Because luxury goods were expensive, it was pleasure through a detailed explanation on luxury goods difficult to purchase many of these items without suffi- by YouTubers. This detailed explanation was very help- cient financial resources. Accordingly, viewers came ful to viewers who were curious about luxury goods. to experience empathy with YouTubers and feel vicar- The longer viewers watched luxury haul videos, the ious pleasure with excitement by experiencing a large more they felt empathy with them, which led to vicar- quantity of goods through these videos. ious pleasure.
“You know there are many products even in a single haul video. “I want to buy something luxurious, though if I can't, I can see it. In this regard, I think I feel vicarious pleasure. I have few luxury good By the way, it's not easy to visit a luxury store, and I have to spend s and so watch them with great expectations, but I am disappointed time. They show luxury goods to me and inform me of their prices… if there're few goods.” (P4) So, I think it is strong vicarious pleasure.” (P6)
Another factor related to visual stimulation in lux- The results of the interviews showed that luxury haul ury haul videos was the scarcity of a product. Six parti- video viewers felt vicarious pleasure through their em- cipants felt vicarious pleasure when they saw luxury pathy with the videos. Viewers could sympathize with items rarely seen in their daily lives on luxury haul vi- YouTubers through emotional factors such as their re- deos. For instance, there were few consumers who could actions or visual stimulation in the videos. Moreover, purchase limited edition goods made by a luxury brand. they experienced empathy via immersion in the videos In addition, viewers tended not to purchase products with a detailed explanation of the goods by YouTubers. with fashionable or excessively experimental designs Viewers' empathy with luxury haul videos led to vicar- even if they had the financial resources to do so. Con- ious pleasure in these cases. sequently, viewers felt visual excitement and vicarious pleasure by observing products that they could not or 3. Relative Deprivation by Comparisons of were not willing to purchase through luxury haul vi- Financial Capability and Appearance deos. It was in the following two cases that viewers felt “While watching luxury haul videos, I feel more vicarious plea- the feeling of relative deprivation: they felt it when they sure when a YouTuber purchases and shows me things that are really noted that they did not have sufficient financial capa- unusual or things that regular people cannot purchase. You see, these bility; or when they felt their appearance inferior to that are things others do not do, because we do not buy them unless they of YouTubers. In this study, nineteen interviewees re- are in excess though we have money.” (P1) ported that they felt both vicarious pleasure and relative deprivation when comparing themselves with YouTu- Lastly, in addition to reactions by YouTubers and bers. They felt relative deprivation because they com- the visual stimulation from products in luxury haul vi- pared their lives with those of YouTubers through the deos, a detailed explanation of the goods by YouTubers images in the videos. First, viewers, who felt relative allowed viewers to feel empathy with them. Though deprivation from such economic comparison with You- viewers feel vicarious pleasure by watching luxury haul Tubers, made mistakes by comparing their actual ima- videos, they could not purchase luxury goods in the ge with that of the uploaders in the videos, and such
– 757 – Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 44 No. 4, 2020 comparison was not appropriate. As Bergman et al. (2011) noted, individual images exposed by SNS show only what is considered the 'painted parts'. Therefore, when observing others' lives online, viewers should remember that their actual image and others' ‘painted’ image cannot be the same. Relative deprivation occurs when an individual determines a satisfaction index thro- ugh upward comparison with others who are regarded as superior, and when he/she lowers the level of satis- faction (Stouffer et al., 1949). Luxury haul video view- Fig. 2. LENA's luxury haul video. Reprinted from Kim (2019). https://www.edaily.co.kr ers felt relative deprivation when they considered that YouTubers had a greater advantage economically than they did. The reason they made that judgment was YouTubers were 'riding the gravy train' compared to that YouTubers looked more affluent because of their their own lives. In contrast, the participants here led possession of luxury goods. economically limited lives and could not spend much When asked about their experiences in purchasing money as they were just starting out in their careers. luxury goods, the luxury haul video viewers answered According to the participants' evaluation, YouTubers' that they can't afford to purchase luxury goods as often job seemed to have the following characteristics: when as YouTubers, while nine participants disclosed to ha- their videos became influential and attracted many sub- ving no experience of buying luxury goods. Moreover, scribers they gained financial capability readily com- the other viewers mentioned that they had purchased pared to the amount of labor in other professions. When luxury goods mainly as gifts to give to others. On the the opinions of the viewers were put together, they felt other hand, most of luxury haul YouTubers consumed relative deprivation considering that they were less paid luxury goods for their sake. Here, viewers felt relative compared to their effort. deprivation compared to YouTubers who owned multi- ple luxury items, while they owned only a few. When “…because in my case it's hard-earned money, but she's doing so- viewers were approximately the same age as YouTu- called luxury haul videos. You know, she's making money while pur- bers, they felt a higher level of relative deprivation due chasing them even though she seems to be about the same age as me.” to the possession of luxury goods. Viewers frequently (P9) mentioned a Korean fashion YouTuber, ‘LENA’, who was the first to produce a luxury haul video in Korea Next, another factor related to relative deprivation (Fig. 2). She gained her fame under the moniker of ‘Sil- felt by luxury haul video viewers was comparison and ver Spoon’. evaluation of appearance. Relative deprivation arose when viewers underestimated their appearance com- “LENA says she earns the money for her purchases, but she's been pared to that of YouTubers. According to Lee and Kim rich always. Everyone knows. So, she has higher standards for con- (2017), users, who had viewed ideal physical images sumption than I do, and she's buying a lot of luxury goods. She's such on SNS, mentioned they felt both positive and negative a person and very different from me. Therefore, I think I feel relative feelings, including relative deprivation with envy. Most deprivation.” (P8) YouTubers who produced fashion-related Vlogs, in- cluding luxury haul YouTubers, appeared to have well- Another factor influencing on how viewers perceive managed appearance. Luxury haul video viewers un- the financial capability of YouTubers was the labor en- derestimated their appearance, and felt relative depri- vironment. Eight of the participants considered that vation when they compared their appearance to that of
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YouTubers. In contrast to Lee and Watkins' (2016) re- search, which revealed that YouTube Vloggers' physi- cal attractiveness had less effect on perception and in- teraction of viewers, it could be seen that physical att- ractiveness was a factor that could give relative depri- vation to viewers.
“I think they have pretty faces, so whatever they do, everything goes off without a hitch. Of course, I know they make efforts... I'm al- ways the same, on the contrary, their lives are getting better and better. Fig. 3. Han Hye Yeon's luxury haul video. Suddenly they have more than hundreds of thousands of followers and Reprinted from Kwon (2019). https://www.wikitree.co.kr make the luxury haul videos. So I hate to see them.” (P17) available to viewers through video-format postings, On the other hand, there were viewers who reported viewers come to compare themselves with YouTubers, that they felt no relative deprivation even though they and such comparison naturally comes to cause nega- watched the same luxury haul videos. They thought tive feelings. When comparing with luxury haul You- that some YouTubers showed their natural appearance, Tubers, viewers felt relative deprivation while under- or that they were inferior in appearance. The viewers' estimating their financial capability or appearance, and feeling seemed to come from the fact that they did not this effect was prominent when viewers perceived that make upward comparison, but downward comparison. YouTubers were approximately the same age. In general, downward comparison does not entail ne- gative feelings (Smith et al., 2012). 4. Vicarious Pleasure & Relative Deprivation A YouTuber, ‘Han Hye Yeon’, began to produce fa- shion-related videos through the channel of ‘Super Star Twenty viewers interviewed here experienced both Stylist TV’ on YouTube in 2018, being a well-known vicarious pleasure and relative deprivation through lux- stylist in Korea (Fig. 3). She also produced luxury haul ury haul videos. However, the viewers' psychological videos. The reason four participants said they felt no traits varied according to their perception of luxury great relative deprivation from her luxury haul videos haul videos, their level of involvement in luxury goods, was because she was known to have a friendly appea- and the particular YouTubers involved. rance and magnanimous character. Firstly, viewers who perceived luxury haul videos as entertainment tended to feel vicarious pleasure while “In fact, Han Hye Yeon is not pretty, isn't she? So, she's very inter- those who perceived it as a source of information were esting and friendly. It's not important for her to buy luxury or vintage. likely to feel relative deprivation. The former tended Just fun.” (P20) to experience vicarious pleasure through YouTubers' exaggerated reactions and the visual stimulation of the Viewers felt relative deprivation after watching lux- videos. They had no need for mass-consumption of lux- ury haul videos due to their unintentional comparison ury goods and were likely to perceive that YouTubers' with YouTubers and their underestimation of them- consumption of luxury goods was unrelated to their selves. In particular, it is a striking phenomenon these own lives, which gave them only vicarious pleasure days that users compare their appearance to that of You- through emotional stimulation. On the other hand, the Tubers with the increase of visual postings resulting latter tended to experience relative deprivation through from the development of social media (Brown & Tig- comparison with YouTubers in terms of financial ca- gemann, 2016). Because luxury haul videos are readily pability than appearance. With an underlying desire for
– 759 – Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 44 No. 4, 2020 consumption of luxury goods, they considered that lux- relative deprivation along with vicarious pleasure, par- ury haul YouTubers compared to those publishing ticularly causing young viewers lacking in judgment other fashion and beauty contents were showing off to develop improper consumption habits. Most studies their financial capability through mass consumption on online fashion content analyzed only consumers' of luxury goods. Hence, they were more likely to feel behavior to purchase fashion items. However, this stu- relative deprivation through this type of forced econo- dy tried to examine the psychological outcomes ex- mic comparison. perienced by luxury haul video viewers, such as vicar- Secondly, the more involved in luxury goods the vi- ious pleasure and relative deprivation. It aimed to iden- ewers were, the more vicarious pleasure they felt thro- tify what factors make them experience these two psy- ugh luxury haul videos, and the more involved view- chological traits when watching luxury haul videos. ers were in YouTubers, the more relative deprivation Based on a qualitative research, this study conduc- they felt. According to Doob and Sears (1939), people ted interviews with actual luxury haul video viewers feel vicarious pleasure by observing others when they and examined the causes of psychological reactions cannot possess a desired item. In this study viewers viewers experienced. First, the results of an analysis with high involvement in luxury goods came to feel vi- of viewers' perceptions of luxury haul videos indicated carious pleasure through the purchase behaviors of that they perceived these types of videos as a source YouTubers even though they had no luxury goods aga- of information or entertainment. Vicarious pleasure inst their strong desire for possession. On the other arose when viewers had sufficient empathy with the hand, viewers with high involvement in YouTubers video, and their empathy was deepened by an exagge- constantly watched luxury haul videos even if there rated reaction, a detailed description of YouTubers, and were no detailed remarks about luxury goods of which the visual stimulation from the videos. Relative depri- they were curious. As noted by Diener and Fujita (as vation was caused by comparison with YouTubers in cited in Yang, 2015), YouTubers continually exposed terms of financial capability and appearance. Vicar- to viewers caused unintentional comparison and in- ious pleasure and relative deprivation varied depending creased the possibility that viewers could feel relative on viewers' perception of luxury haul videos, their le- deprivation. Particularly, relative deprivation was gre- vel of involvement in luxury goods, and the particular ater when YouTubers were about the same age as view- YouTubers involved. Viewers perceiving luxury haul ers. Negative feelings against YouTubers caused view- videos as entertainment were more likely to feel vicar- ers to be sensitive to the video producers and made ious pleasure while those perceiving them as a source them perceive economic differences arousing relative of information were more likely to feel relative depri- deprivation despite the homogeneous background of vation. Moreover, viewers with a higher level of invol- them. vement in luxury goods felt more vicarious pleasure through luxury haul videos, while those with a higher V. Conclusions level of involvement in YouTubers experienced more relative deprivation. On the other hand, basic backgro- Recently, Haul videos in which YouTubers purch- unds such as participants' ages and occupations did not ase and introduce certain types of goods are attracting have much influence in experiencing vicarious plea- much attention from the public. In particular, it is be- sure or relative deprivation. coming more common to find luxury haul videos in whi- Fashion-related YouTube videos deal with fashion ch many costly luxury goods are purchased and intro- in which everyone can be interested. They not only pro- duced, with viewers feeling vicarious pleasure when vide viewers with information and pleasure, but also they watch them. However, luxury haul videos have help viewers feel empathy including vicarious plea- become a social issue in that they cause viewers to feel sure. However, luxury haul videos show luxury goods
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