Strategies for 1 Seeing Crete

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005_717080-ch01.indd5_717080-ch01.indd 7 33/5/10/5/10 110:480:48 PMPM 8 Strategies for Seeing Crete s s o r o o t r d s e i o a l s d l i k Rodos R o a S e r

l v . k a r a á k P Palekastro K Z Zákros

a Akr. Sideros Akr. A . Airport Ferry Route a d o N. Kavalli N l d a a a n s f a s í o o e i r t k g i n for Seeing Crete i o Z Ziros a a Sitía S i r k s G D s i

. i . e P Piskokefalo s i N. Gianisada N i N. Dragonada N n i p n h o o O t S i f k a . I L Lithines a u N S Skopi r s g i i g o T R s s n A n K

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P o . n O ORNO ó .

s I r l . a a N N. Koufonisi k ó a l R l N N. Psira o n Akr. Ag. A Akr. I Ioannis h ó i o H i E75 c p k r i T THRIPTIS o a S Spinalónga o Strategies r N M Mochlós t H

e s o o l t i p o i r o a a o p K Kato Horio g r á H e

Á Ágios Nikólaos e Ierapetra I i o l l N Neápol o a t o A K Kalo Horio a í d 90 s N n a i a i I i r A Anatoli l E h a m s T L r C o

M Malia E e K . n z i I S SELENA l N N. Chrisí n T Tzermiado l s a e a i s D DIKTI i t e V a i s n D

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e r a . o r o u K Kastelli i n N N. Dia h N o s Pireas P A Ano Viannos s o a G Gournes l i O e a I n n i k L o a r k ó n h S Skinias n A Arkalohori K r s a a P A Pano Arhanes o s Á r s p R s v o a I IRÁKLION a a r s g t k r h e i S a

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i e A e s g s i s a G Gergeri i a n t i N A Agii Deka i e S Sises n g t a I p i i a o i o s r p s t F n í T Tripiti A u l s

m A Anogia e o i a O s e o o t r a r t r B Balí o i s P Pompia K Krousonas s K KOFINAS r a I e a e a M Mires Cretan Sea C Cretan K Kato Asites a p n Z Zaros D S e e m IDI I

k a a m S Skepasti r l i n i e L a

S k t s i P Perama a l a á a a O b y e M Mátala K Kali Limenes r E75 n i o R m i i s s i l b n o i Pireas P s n e i a T Timbaki i D p e n b r o h S Spili Libyan Sea Libyan L t E a i a m m m m i L r s a

K KEDROS r o l y . a A Armeni e m i r n e Ormos O h u k d a u t Mesaras M s s M Melambes o a A Akr. Lithino Akr. p o k a o r a m n Ré Réthymnon A Akoumia i i r r m x D u r m

a . l a o i r P i O Ormos 90 r

l K Kournas k Almirou A í . t e s A Akr. Drapano Akr. N. Paximadia N S Selia o o r s a m k i e a á A Akrotíri s n d V Vámos á s n o ú í i s ó r g o i o i n V Vrísses r S Soúda k s a u a A Asigonia f h a s o A s l S a k

C Chaniá I o i u K a o n d o a a r r R l v a s n F p e d ó t k a o o o ORI O n s a Nerokouros N H Hóra Sfakión Hóra E i l i G d p e a

a r i P Platanias . n l LEFKA L v l p a Meskla M i a N. Gavdos N a o o l S b

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i r . m r i k m s l a N N. Gavdopoula e s a e u A Akr. Spanda Akr. o i n P Perivolia o s s E65 n o K Kolimbari g a i i p o o R u l k

s o n t e o S Skines a s 20 mi a d i a S Sougia b o d g o V Vatsiana 90 m n R Rodopos m A Agia Roumeli a a A Ambelos s K Kandanos s a s i t o K Kissamos a b a n m m i a a r a s a i i l ó K Kambos s n m a h o o a Kalamata K c n k k i o a o t d e l l a n l P Plokamiana a o P Platanos P Paleochóra 0 0 20 km P Pondikonisi

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005_717080-ch01.indd5_717080-ch01.indd 8 33/5/10/5/10 110:480:48 PMPM 9 Strategies rete is a long, thin island—260km long and varying from Caround 80km to 20km in width. It therefore requires a number s s o of strategies to ensure that you make the best of your visit. r o o t r d s e i o a l s d l i k R o a S e r

l v . k a r a á k P for Seeing Crete K Z decision that it’s not worth opening,

a Rule #1: Hire a car A . a d o N l d a

a and shut up shop for the winter. a

n To get the best out of your visit, you s f a s í o o e i r t k g i n i

o really need the freedom to explore Z a a S i r k s G D s i

Rule #4: Remember that . i . that a car will give you. If you’re e P s i N i N n i p n

h many things close for the o

o tempted to rent motorcycles or quad O t S i f k a . I L a u N S r s g i i g siesta after lunch o T

R bikes, think carefully. They’re cheap s s n A n K

P

P o . n O ó .

s I r l . a a Do what the Cretans do, divide your N k ó

a and convenient, but dangerous—ask l R l N o n A I h ó i o H i c p k day into three—plan activities for r i

T any local A&E staff. Cars are safer. o a S o r N M t H

the morning and the evening, and e s o o l t i p o i r o a

a Rule #2: Whilst driving around rest up in the afternoon. o p K g r á H e

Á e I i o l Crete, allow plenty of time l N o a t o A

K Rule #5: Despite what you a í

d Roads are often so winding that, on s N n a i a i I i r A l E

h may hear to the contrary, a m s T any but the National Road, you’ll be L r C o

M E e K . n z i

I there’s no need to stick S l N n lucky to average 30mph. T l s a e a i s D i t e V a i

s slavishly to the main roads n D

r e r a . o r o u K i n N h N

o The quality of even quite minor roads s P Rule #3: Check opening times A s o a G l i O e a I n n i k Cretans can be cavalier about pub- in Crete is excellent. If a route that L o a r k ó n h S n A K r s a a lished times. I visited one restaurant you want to take is marked down as P A o s Á r s p R s v o a I

a a dirt road, check with locals—you’ll a

r at a time when, according to its pub- s g t k r h e i S a

T n r . s P f often find that they’ve been recently

r lished hours, it should have been a a a o a k i k s H r D i e A l e e open, only to be told that the owner resurfaced (the roads, that is, not the y S D g S

T s r i

i e A e s

g locals). Distances in this book are s i ‘had things to do’, so decided to s a G i a n t i N A i e S n g t a I p i i a o i o approximate as there are often sev-

s close. Even attractions such as muse- r p s t F n í T A u l s

m A e o i a O s e o

o eral ways to get from A to B. t r a ums where the hours are literally r t r B o i s P K s K r a I e a e a M C K a p n Z

D ‘inscribed in stone’ (or brass) have a S e e m I k a a m

S Rule #6: Look out for tourist r l i tendency simply to stick a bit of n i e L a

S k t s i P a l a á a road trains

a paper over them, bearing totally dif- O b y e M K r n i o R m i i s s i l b They’re a cheap and easy way of get- n o i P s n e ferent hours. Big tourist attractions i a T i D p e n b r o h S L t E a i a m

m ting an overview of a region. Most hol- m m i like the water parks also play it by L r s a

K r o l y . a A e m i r n e O h u k iday areas and large towns have them. d a u t ear—whatever the official closing M s s M o a A p o k a o r a m n Ré A

i They can be very bumpy, though— i r

r date, when visitor numbers have m x D u r m

a . l a o i r P i you could end up with loose fillings! O r

l slowed to a trickle in October, they K k A í . t e s A N S o o r

s simply make a m k i e a á A s n d Rule #7: Coastal ferries are V á s n o

ú a pragmatic í i s ó r g o i o i n V r S k s inexpensive and efficient a u a A f h a s o A s l S a k

C I o i

u They’re usually quicker than doing K a o n d o a a r r R l v a s n F p e d ó t k

a the same route by o o o O n s a N H E i l i G d p e a a r i P . n l L v l p a M

i car (even where a N a o o l S b

G v . e K H i r . m r i k m s that’s possible. l a N e s a e u A o i n P o s s n o K g a i i p o o

R Some villages are u l k

s o n t e o S a s a d i a S b o d g o accessible only V m n R m A a a A s K from the sea). Be s a s i t o K a b a sure you’re waiting n m m i a a r a s a i i l ó K s on the jetty at the n m a h o o a K c n k k i o a required time—crews o t d e l l a n l P a o P P P Coastal ferries are inexpensive and efficient.

005_717080-ch01.indd5_717080-ch01.indd 9 33/5/10/5/10 110:480:48 PMPM 10 for Seeing Crete Strategies Look out for tourist road trains.

have got unloading and loading Rule #9: Petrol stations are down to a fine art, and it’s unbeliev- plentiful, even in rural areas able how quickly they can turn But most don’t take credit cards, so around. have lots of cash ready. Even those that advertise that they do take Rule #8: If using taxis for credit cards will seemingly go to any longer journeys, agree a length to avoid doing so—saying price before embarking that the machine is broken, or the And don’t be afraid to haggle. phone lines are down, or flatly deny- ing that they accept them, even when you can see the sticker!

Agritourism—A Different Way To See Crete

Rural areas in Crete are dying. Young people leave in search of work and entertainment. Old people die. In the worst-hit areas, cot- tages lie empty, walls crumble, and fields return to nature. In response, and with the full backing of successive governments, a movement has developed called ‘agritourism’ (or ‘agrotourism’). Characterful old buildings are sympathetically renovated and turned into villas or small hotels, and working farms are encour- aged to provide accommodation for holidaymakers. As urban Greek or foreign holidaymakers flood in to fill the void left by departing youngsters (or oldsters), new customers are provided for local restaurants and shops, traditional crafts are given a boost, and faltering festivals take on a new lease of life. Agritourism offers a refreshingly different kind of experience—the chance to enjoy a peaceful holiday (and even to help with the animals on a farm, or with the olive harvest) whilst supporting Greek community life. Have a look at the entry on Vamos in Chapter 6 (p 123). Not for everybody, perhaps, but win-win, all the way!

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