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Fashion Transformation of the Bamboo Fabric for Sustainability By Fashion Transformation of the Bamboo Fabric for Sustainability By Dr. Kavita Chaudhary (Ph. D. Textile & Fashion) Associate Professor Banasthali Vidyapith Rajasthan-304022 Bamboo viscose, also known as regenerated bamboo, is a regenerated cellulosic fibre. In the last few years in the world market, more and more products from bamboo fibres have been appearing. It is market as having exceptional properties such as superior comfort and hand, as well as antimicrobial properties. These are suitable for hygienic products and sanitary materials sanitary napkins, absorbing pads, masks, bandages and surgical gowns. Currently, regenerated bamboo fibres are used in apparel including undergarments, sportswear, t-shirts and socks. Yarns of bamboo fibres provide the desirable properties of strength, high moisture absorbency, antimicrobial and antifungal, sheen and smooth close to silk, high breathability and thermo regulating properties in textiles and made ups. In their collection, designers often replace more expensive materials like cashmere or silk and concluded that the strength of bamboo fibres was equivalent to that of glass fibres. Bamboo fibre has found its way into the fashion world. So, the present study is a step in this direction. Objective 1: Sub Objective 1: To develop Kota Doria fabrics from mixture of bamboo-silk and cotton-silk yarns Construction of fabrics Two types of Kota Doria fabrics were manufactured in which bamboo / cotton and silk yarns were used to prepare khat.- 1. Bamboo and silk 2. Cotton and silk 1/54 Nm Cotton, 1/64 Nm bamboo counts 1/332 Nm count of silk Yarns Each khat make 14 threads (i.e., 08 of cotton/bamboo and 06 of silk yarns) were used both side warp and weft. 300-350 ‘khats’ across the 46-48 inch width of the fabric. Develop of the Kota Doria on Pit handloom used 100 reed count with plain weave. Kota Doria Fabric Kota Doria is a handloom made up of cotton/bamboo and silk which is known for its special weaving style that makes the final fabric transparency, light, airy and comfortable feeling makes it first choice for the summer. It is also popularly known as Masuria Malmal. Cotton-silk is most popular combination of Kota Doria. The warp and weft use a combination of 60% cotton and 30% silk yarns, this creates a fine square cheque patterns. Checks are popularly known as ‘khats’. Weaving Processes Bobbin making Creel filling Peg warping Warp knotting: (Piecing) Sizing process Weaving Sub Objective 2: To determine selected properties of developed fabrics 3. Properties of Fabrics 3.1 Fabric’s low stress mechanical properties Low stress mechanical properties such as compression, tensile, shear, bending and surface properties were measured to assess hand of the fabrics. These parameters were entered into the Kawabata evaluation system to calculate primary and total hand values. 3.1.1 Compressional behaviour Table 5: Compression properties S. Sample LC WC RC No. g.cm/cm2 % 1. Bamboo-Silk Kota Doria 0.590 0.021 63.31 2. Cotton-Silk Kota Doria 0.595 0.031 56.26 The linearity of compression (LC) The compressional energy (WC) The compressional resilience (RC) 3.1.2 Fabric Weight and Thickness Table 6 S. Sample Fabric Fabric Fabric No. Thickness Thickness at Weight (To mm) max. pressure (mg/cm2) (Tm mm) Bamboo-Silk Kota 1. 0.400 0.334 5.76 Doria Cotton-Silk Kota 2. 0.501 0.405 5.97 Doria To: Thickness at 0.5gf/cm2 Tm: Thickness at 5gf/cm2 3.1.3 Tensile properties Table 7 S. No. Sample LT WT RT EMT gf.cm/cm2 % % Warp Bamboo-Silk Kota 0.910 0.13 72.44 0.55 1. Doria Weft 0.892 0.18 71.57 0.78 Avg 0.901 0.15 72.00 0.67 Warp Cotton-Silk Kota 0.853 0.14 64.58 0.69 2. Doria Weft 0.909 0.22 69.05 0.99 Avg 0.881 0.18 66.82 0.84 Linearity of load - extension curve (LT), Tensile energy (WT), Tensile resilience (RT) and Tensile Strain (EMT) 3.1.4 Shear properties Table 8 S. Sample G 2HG 2HG5 No gf/cm.deg gf/cm gf/cm Warp 0.32 0.24 0.69 Weft 1. Bamboo-Silk Kota Doria 0.31 0.16 0.54 Avg 0.32 0.20 0.61 Warp 0.34 0.52 0.73 Weft 2. Cotton-Silk Kota Doria 0.33 0.44 0.71 Avg 0.34 0.48 0.72 G: Shear Rigidity, 2HG: Hysteresis of shear force at 0.5o shear angle, 2HG5: Hysteresis of shear force at 5o shear angle 3.1.5 Bending properties Table 9 S. No. Sample B 2HB gf.cm2/cm gf.cm/cm Warp 0.2175 0.1020 Bamboo-Silk Kota 1. Weft 0.0317 0.0173 Doria Avg 0.1246 0.0596 Warp 0.1105 0.1134 Cotton-Silk Kota 2. Weft 0.0248 0.0216 Doria Avg 0.0676 0.0675 B: Bending Rigidity, 2HB: Bending Hysteresis 3.1.6 Surface Properties Table 10 S. No. Sample MIU MMD SMD (μm) Warp 0.140 0.0562 9.75 Bamboo-Silk Kota 1. Weft Doria 0.170 0.0597 20.55 Avg 0.155 0.0580 15.15 Warp 0.171 0.0470 9.29 Cotton-Silk Kota 2. Weft Doria 0.214 0.0507 21.54 Avg 0.192 0.0489 15.41 MIU (represents the coefficient of friction of the fabric surface) MMD (mean deviation of the coefficient of friction) SMD (represents geometrical roughness of the fabric surface) 3.1.7 Primary and Total Hand Values Table 11 S. Sample Koshi Numeri Fukurami Total Hand No. (Stiffness) (Smoothness) (Fullness & Value Softness) KN-302 Bamboo-Silk 1. 7.01 2.72 3.96 2.33 Kota Doria Cotton-Silk 2. 6.18 3.21 4.50 2.74 Kota Doria 3.2 Crease recovery of fabrics Table 12 S. No. Sample of Kota Doria Crease recovery angle (°) Fabric Warp wise Weft wise Average 1. Combination of Bamboo- 102.3° 98.5° 100.4° Silk 2. Combination of Cotton- 97.8° 96.9° 97.45° Silk 3.3 Comfort Properties As mentioned earlier, thermal comfort is related to fabric transmission behavior, namely air, heat and moisture transmission. Thermal comfort characteristics of kota doria fabrics have been presented below- 3.3.1 Air Permeability of Fabrics Table 13 S. Sample of Kota Doria Fabrics Air Permeability No. (cm3/cm2/sec.) 1. Combination of Bamboo-Silk 554.6 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 435.7 3.3.2 Thermal Resistance of Fabrics Table 14 S. Sample of Kota Doria Fabrics Thermal Resistance (K.m2/W) No. 1. Combination of Bamboo-Silk 0.0064 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 0.0186 3.3.3 Moisture Management properties of Fabrics Table 15 Sample Moisture Management Combination of 100% Combination of 100% No. Bamboo-Silk Cotton-Silk a Wetting time Top (Sec) 59.38 21.83 b Wetting time Bottom (Sec) 2.58 1.83 c Top Absorption Rate (%Sec) 4.00 5.44 d Bottom Absorption Rate (%Sec) 33.32 15.25 e Top Max Wetting Radius (mm) 5.0 6.0 f Bottom Max Wetting Radius (mm) 8.0 10.0 g Top Spreading Speed (mm/sec) 0.121 0.351 h Bottom Spreading Speed (mm/sec) 3.998 4.65 i Accumulative one-way transport index (%) 1278.86 1573.57 j OMMC 0.742 0.762 k OMMC Grade 4.5 4.5 3.4 Drape Table 16: Percent Drape coefficient of fabrics S. No. Sample of Kota Doria Fabrics Drape Coefficient (%) 1. Combination of Bamboo-Silk 66.6 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 61.2 3.5 Colour strength of dyed samples Table 17: K/S Values S. Sample of Kota Doria L* a* b* No. Fabrics K/S at λ max (500nm) 1. Combination of Bamboo- Silk 50.4 55.5 39.4 13.0 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 49.7 49.1 39.0 12.0 The coefficient of light absorption (K) The coefficient of light scattering (S) L* is a measure of lightness/darkness of colour of an object and range from 0 (black) to 100 (white), a* is a measure of redness (+ve a*) or greenness (-ve a*), b* is a measure of yellowness (+ve b*) or blueness (-ve b*) and C* is a measure of dullness/brightness. 3.6 Colour fastness properties 3.6.1 Washing fastness properties of fabric Table 18 S. Sample of Kota Doria Change Staining Staining on No. Fabric in shade on cotton viscose 1. Combination of Bamboo- 4/5 4 4/5 Silk 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 4/5 4 4/5 3.6.2 Rubbing fastness properties of fabric Table 19 S. No. Sample of Kota Doria Fabrics Wet Dry 1. Combination of Bamboo-Silk 3/4 4/5 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 3/4 4/5 3.6.3 Light fastness properties of fabric Table 20 S. No. Sample of Kota Doria Fabrics Grade 1. Combination of Bamboo-Silk 4 2. Combination of Cotton-Silk 4 Objective 2: Natural Dyeing and Printing Processes: •Scouring: M:L 1:50 Time- 60 minutes Casting Soda- 5% (weight of the fabric) Common Salt-2% (weight of the fabric) Natural Dyeing and Printing Processes: Preparation of dyeing • Mordanting: Weight of fabric (alum 10% and 20%; and chitosan 10% and 20%) at 60°C- 90°C for 30 to 60 min with material to liquor ratio as 1:30. After mordanting the samples were rinsed in cold water to remove the excess of mordant and used for dyeing. • Dyeing: Dye solution was boiling for ½ h at 40°C and filter of the dye bath after that dyeing of the pre-mordanted samples was performed for 1 h at 40°C-50°C in an open bath beaker dyeing machine at 30:1 liquor to material ratio.
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