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UNITED NATIONS INDUSTRIAL DEVELOPMENT ORGANIZATION Vienna International Centre, P.O. Box 300, 1400 Vienna, Austria Tel: (+43-1) 26026-0 · www.unido.org · [email protected] on DP/ID/SER.à/209 20 June 1979 RESTRICTED English

/ } \COTTOT INDUSTRY RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT COTRE, KARACHI. DP/PAK/71/562 PAKISTAN •

Tiohnioal retarti PMario development* ,

U Ü 0 v Í t

Prepared for the Government of Pakistan fcy the United Nation« Industrial Development Organization, exeeuting agenoy for the United Nations Development Programme

Meed on the work ¿f D. R. Hargreavee. Produot development expert

United Nation« Induetrial Development Organization Vienna

•Thia report haa he«n reproduced without formal editing.

id.79-5221 Mention of firm names and oosmsroial produota áo9» not iaply th« tndorssnant of th« Uhit«d Hâtions Industrial Dsvslopasnt Organization (UHIDO).

x - 3 - A2STRACT

Tha expert's mission was part of the larger project »¿¡otton Textile industry *„lojmnt

Centre, Karachi- (EP/PIK/TI/562). The revest for assistance was »ad. by the Gov9rnn.nt

of Pakistan on 2 April i970, and approved by the United nations Development Program*. (TOT), the United Kations Industrial Development Organisation (UNIDO) being the exeouti-

ffi.d^ £% %£*""* "^ t00k UP "" a8SiSnMnt °f °M ^ - *7 1978 and

Tha nain conclusions reached durine the coursa of the assignant nave baan that conditions in ths textile industry wcrla-wide have changed dresticsily since tha start of the project and this h„ reflected" in various ways on both orojact objectives and local conditions in tha mills.

In fabric development it is nac.ssary to adjust quickly to change •nd so, after the initial evaluation of tna situation, a programme of

work was laid out embracing the original aim« as far as possale and •lso allowing for the altered circumstances.

Obviously, designing was not oaing :i,en particular attention in n.ny of tha mills as it was lookad upon as having . minor part to play in tha ocnema of things. This outlook is a dir.ct r.ault of the shortage of skilled and experienced designers.

Within the terms of reference of the assignment it was necessary to próvida the industry with sources of information on world feshion trends and edvice on the production and marketing of new fabrics, nowevar, it was also fslt that it was vital to aell tW mills on the idea of oroducing new types of fabric and developing new end original designs. 5o this oolicy has boar, followed throughout the year. :.iw febrics snown and discussed at the mills visited have not only provided stimulus for creative thi-.king but heve oenonstrated that there is much more to taxtile designing than copying someone else's petterne.

Fabric development and marketing services ere now being orovidJd to industry on a fee-peid oeais. So special conaideretion has n»¿ to be given throughout the yeer to building up e strong reputatior for tna designing and marketing department at the Centre. Then, romoenies will eonti-je to approacn them for technical assistance after tr.e cspartura of t--e J' 1ZC expert. Personal contact at senior management level with mill ad-inistration has :esn the foundation for ouilding up this goodwill and this policy will be continued. - 4 -

During visits to a number of mills it has baen noted that many quality problema at all stages of manufacturing still axist. This is quita a serious mattar and will continue to affdct the cour^try's •xport performance. It would be irresponsible to ignore this and aru. intensive programme aimed at correcting this should be given immediate priority.

Arrangements have been made so thot adequate information will be available at the Centre regarding trends in fabric design in the mejor markets. Additionally, the senior development officer is now capebla of processing this information and guiding industry in the development of samplea which will contribute significantly to an overell improvement in deaign, whila still within the technical limitations existing. Quality problems in new samples will be eveluated and action taken to eliminate them before large scale prod- uction is contemplated«

U.N.D.P. project funde heve provided for a total of ninety -"our différant albume of samplea illustrating fashion trends in 20th appperel and furniahing fabrics. These will be received over a period of twelve months. As each set of albums is o elivered to the Centre the swatchea will be arranged in a co-ordinated manner for ahowing to the milla. Any samples selected will be confined to one mill and then conatruction staila provided to adaot thacesicn to the type o-f oroduction machinery available. Towards the end of ths first year the subscriptions to the French company providing this service will have to be renewed if the fabric develooment work i s to continue successfully. Plans for the future orovision of export market intelligence to the textile industry will suffer 3 saricus setbeck if this sample service is discontinued, as it has proved to be en imoortant factor in creatine interest in designine.

The policy of working with mills who show the most interest in experimental pattern production ana who are keen to develop new ideas will benefit the Centre most. ~nce the benefits of a strong :8si:n tear, working closely with marketing arc sales --.come kne-.jn, ot-.er mills viill follow the lead arc -ors consultancy work will -o ava^laoxs for the Csntre. - 5 -

In r-r.rvitinç, records ara being kept of monthly and yearly figures referring to the production and export of and cloth aid these are heing compared carefully with the performance of the other major textile exporting countries. Yarn prices and quotas wili -,e studied as well as tne production capacities of competing ccuntrics in the overseas markets. Records are being carefully tabulated and the amount of information which can be made available for future marketing reports is oeing prepared in advance. Also regular articles on the subject ara appearing in the Centre's quarterly magazine "Distaff".

A market offering excellent growth potential has baen identified in uphcistory and soft furnishing fajrics, and work is in progrsss with several rills to develop this octertial. Care is taken to see that there is no duplication of idea3 and tre designs being developed in each mill are sufficiently different, both in style and colour, /here a spinning mill has excess capacity negotiation« are set up to develop new which can be used in units looking for new ideas to create novelty fabrics.

Use of polyestar/cotton and / blonds is expanding and •pacifications are being prepared for spinning and weaving trial» aimed at changing service uniforms from 100% cotton to a 3Sfa polyaatar/ 6 5£ cotton blend. This will provide a lighter-weight, more auracde and smarter-looking fabric. Samples will oe produced in plain weave, «nd an aertex weave. If these are successful, further experimental work is planned. This will aim at replacing 100,. cotton bedsheets and other used in the service hospitals with the same Dolyester/cotton blend.

During recent mill visits towards the end of th« assignment seventy- seven orint designs were chosen from our collection. These are to be develooed by our print designer and different colourways provided. If consultancy assignments continue at this rate more assistance will be required in the styling of both woven and printed faorics.

A six-aay esminar on Fabric Development was presented recently'at tha

Centre £nd this will be reoeated at regular intervals, depending on the amount of interest shown and the numoer of delegates wishina to attend. - « -

».in. th. „.in obj.ct ... to promet, mor. int.«..t in aligning .nd p„vid. .n outlin. of ho« . ....=n.l f.b«ie d.v.lop*.nt pi...... 1.

Pr.nn.d .nd c.rri.d throu,h. Th. n.c.it, far . fulXy <-'" ' '" eou... in d..i,nin, .lli.d t. textil. t.=hnol.,y h.. bun .tr... i* «hi. «port .nd obviou.ly . complicfd .ubj.= t thl. could not b« coverta in six d«yt. - 7 -

CONTENTI

INTRODUCTION -..1Û .. PROJECT OBJECTIVES IN RELATION TO PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DUHING THE PERIOD MAY 1978 - MAY 1979 .... 13 1) Situation At The Beginning Of The Assignment - Hay 1978 ••••; ]\ 2) Consultancy On A Fee Paid Basis. • ^ 3) Promotion Of Interest In Fabric Development Through Articles In »Distaff" H 4) Preliminary Survey In The Karachi Area 14 5) Viait To The Pakistan Design Instituts 15 6) Findings Of The Preliminary Mill Survey 15

m l6 MARKET INTELLIGENCE l"\""DM1 n e 7) Samplaa Showing Trenda In Fabric S n^"ari .* Europe L North America, Summer/Winter 1979/80- 16 8) Presentation Of New Designs At The Tripartite R s view .* " * V " VL* 9) Preparation Of Samplaa For Pressntation To Tna Vili« • "' 10) Scheduled Viaita To Milla In The North Mast Frontier Province And The Punjab ]° 11) Raeulta Of Mill Viaita In NWFP And Punjab. 1»

MARKET RESEARCH ;V,¿,",,;,;,V V»¿'r .'¿¿¡». 19 12) Report On The Marketing Of Blended Yarns And Fabrica In Pakieten 19 NEW DIRECTIONS IN FABRIC DESIGN 20 13) The Introduction Of Upholstery And Soft Furnishing Fsbrics 2°

EXPANSION OF CONSULTANCY WORK 20 U) Return Viaita To Milla In The Karachi Area 20 15) Conaultancy Work During The Period September - December 1978 -J 16) Warp " DEPARTURE OF PROJECT MANAGER, WEAVING EXPERT AND CLERICAL STAFF ••;••••••; ni'ViLl 22 17) Adminietration During The Final Stagee Of Tna Aasignment - 8 -

fjui

CONSOLIDATING THE FABRIC DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME 23 II) Fallow-Up Visits To Mills In Tha NWFP And Ths Punjab February/March, 1979 23 19) Ths National Collegs Of Tsxtils Tsehnology, Fsisalabsd, Punjab 24 20) Ssmplss Sslsctsd 24

/ DESIGN TECHNOLOGY 25 21 ) Som« Examplss Of Prob Isms Encountsxsd 25 22) Spinning Trials Using Short Stapls Polysstsr 26

/ PRESENTATION OF TRAINING COURSE 27 23) Six Dsy Ssminsr On Product Qsvslopmsnt And Bssic Merketino 2?

FINALISATION Of WORK PLAN 28 24) Concluding Ths Assignment 28

FINDINGS 29 Fl) Ths Wernsr Rsport "Study Of Ths Cotton Tsxtils Industry Tn Pskistsn. 29 F2) Fsbric Developmsnt In Ths Mills Visitad 29 F3) Ths Lsck Of Adsguats Course In Tsxtils Qssigning At Ths National Collega Of Tsxtils Tsehnology In Fsisalsbad 30 F4) Lack Of Information On World Trends In Fabric Design 30 F5) Ths atstua Of The Dssigner In Oversll Msnsgsmsnt ... 31 F6> Msrksting In Rslstion To DeàdLçn 31 F7) The Ready Msde Germent Sector 31 F8) Design Consultsney Services 32 F9) Fscilities For Ssmpls Production At Ths Csntre. 32 F10 ) Sources Of Deaign Idees And New Fabrics 32 F11 ) Dsvslopment Of Librsry Fscilities 33 F12) Houeehold , Soft Furnishings snd Upholstery Fsbrics 33

RECOMIENDATIONS 34 R1) Expansion Of Ths Csntrs'a Activitiss 34 R2) Provision Of Ssmpls Production Machinery At ths Csntrs 34 R3) Informstion On World Fsshion ¿ Trsnds In Cotton Fsbric Design 35 -9-

£iat

Ri) Provision Of A U.N.I tD.O« Scholarship For Tha Ssnior Dsvslopment.Offiesr 35 R5) Tha Acut« Shortage Of "asignar Tachnclogieta 36 R6) Provision Of Ex-Petriats Technical Assistance 3? R7) Promoting Widor Intsrset In Textile Doeign 37 RS) A Permanent Showroom For Now Febrice 1 Deeigne 38 R9) Training Couree In Product flevelopment And RIO) ThÎïîportenee 'Òf The* Rs'ady i-iôdê' GermeVt ' Socio« "...Y. $ RID Futura Trends In The Export Korke to-' 40 R12) The Copying Of Dsaign« 40 - 10 -

iNTRüDüCTICí:

The project which commenced in 1972 was sat up with the object of establishing a research and development centre for the Pakistan textile industry. This establishment located in Karachi would provide long-term aeai3tance to the cotton mills in the areas of production, quality control and product development.

At the time that the project was in the planning stage trie textile industry was expanding rapidly and it could be seen tr>at growth was outpacing technical efficiency. ;:ow, after a lapse of seven years • world-wide economic recesaion, combined with serious over-production of all typea of both woven and knitted fabrics, has compounded the difficulties facing the local industry. This is oresentinç the Cotton Textile Industry Research and Development Cantre with a tough challenge to provide the technical assistance required, despite the excellent work and austained effort of the past.

Large scale .emigration of skilled labour to neighbouring countries» where job opportunities ere much better, has seriously affected quality standards. Whetherthis trend will be reversed in the near future due to changed circumstances, it is too early to say. Also, existing facilities for the training of students in Textile Technology, whilst doing an excellent job, are far too inadéquats in coroarison with the 3-ize of the country's textile industry as a whole.

A considérenle number of mills do not hawe any design studio facilities at all and are merely interested in copying new furies and styles produced by the more progressive mills. This situation is alnost certainly due in pert to an ecjte shortage of designers -with the proper training in Textile Technology. "-any showed excellant artistic ability but had very little knowledge of even the easier in spinning, weaving or and .

Many of the major textile producing countries have used tnsir ^onestic markets as a base on which to build up a strong export trade. ir, a country where the home market is larije end where there is a 3-;rcn- n denand for both good design arc. coco c-üty, tris ca ZB c¡cr,2. .-ISQ, wr.ere fashion and design trends arc roil.winc a similar ~a-';:.zn, r it; arten -;rsre is much differshes ir t~ e ccì:ur ara t'se jf -"-•..-;::s - 11 - selline in Loth the domestic and escort markets. This is oarticulerly true in countries where there is a rapid change In tne fashion cycle.

In Pelcistan the situation is very different, the domestic merket being still verv traditional and mucn lsss sophisticated. The d amend created by changing fashion is very small and the multi-purpose garment Shalwar Kameez worn by a very large proportion of the population, although ideal for the hot climate, does not help the situation.

This :-eans that scecial fabrics have to be developed for the export market anc a completely different approach to the designing of these fabrics is rcouired. Also, in the case of all the major importing coup-riBS a very lsrge ready made rament industry exists. The scale of reduction in thxS sector ana the amount of fabric consumed eecn season nuts it in a position to dictate to the cloth manufacturer in terms of design, quality and price. At the present time, concitions in the world market for cotton textiles are very much in the favour of the buyer and ara likely to remain so for a very long time.

These facte emphasise the importance cf market intelligence and the reason why the Centre ie providing information on world fashion trenda, Routines have also ceen est.blished for meking this evailaole to industry on a regular end seesonal basis* Dnly mills who ere preoared to cater specielly for overseas trede end develop the necessary standards in both design end cuàity are going to enjoy continued success in their efforts.

The leasing mills in the country whose products ere finding good •eeeDtar.ee abroad ere «lre.dy working closely with foreiçn buyers end have realised the importance of reculer visits to the countriee where they are doing business in order to interpret correctly thecem.nds of the merket there.

In meny developing countries there hes been heevy investment in new textile plant and equipment during the lest few yeers. The first intention will be to become self-supporting end then export eccees amounts of yarn, cloth or ready-made garments. This will result in further increesed competition and those compeniee who are prepared to devote money, time end technological know-how in product development will be aule to make progress. - 12 -

Although the Cantra ia now well-eatabliahed it will have to txpand ita facilitiaa and continually adjust and improui ita aervices in ordax to copa with tha expacted larca inermi in raquaats for technical assistance anéicipated as tha textile induatry adepts itaalf to tha rapidly changing conditions. In tha long-term foxecaata the real basis for e sustained improvement in tha textile induatry will ba the provision of many more technically trained psople at middle and senior management level. The direction of a modern textile unit has become increasingly complex an d a emancing ovar the years and there is no substitut« for a good trai, nine in all ••pacta of Textile Technology allied to first clase industrial sxperience. Tbe writer would lila to expreaa his ainoere appreciation for the excellant oo-Hjperation he has received whilst working at the Centra, especially note noteworthy was the kind aad friendly hoepitality received when visitine aille in all parta of tha country, and aleo the keen intareet shown in the work of tha LbTIDO exparts. - 13 -

I-MWJLLT CJJECTIVES !.. ñELATI..;. Tu P'RüUüCT EE;¿LUPi-i£r.T

DL'ñI:.£ TnE PEruC- : AY 197S - r.AY 1979 ,

1 ; Situation At The 3eqj.nnj.nQ of the Assignment - Mav 1973.

íJhen the Fabric DevelODment expert arrived the project wes in its final stane9 after a period of almost seven years. As a result it was important to make a careful appraisal of the situation, to discovar what had jean achieved and what problems were still remaining, i.aturally, after such an extended period of time, conditions in the textile industry had changed. So it had to be decided how the situation had altered in relation to the original objectives.

In addition to changes brought a; out by conditions of over- production in most of the major textile producing countrieu of the world, which had made the overall situation more difficult, previous experts in both marketing and fajric development had been assigned to the Centre. It was, therefore, essential to evaluate their progress, achievements and recommendations in order to avoid duplication. Than a prograrnr-e of work could be initiated which would take into account ground previously covered and highlight areas still needing attention.

After studying the reports compiled by the previous experts it wes decided to carry out a survey of mills. This would provide the opportunity to discuss with management the problems and existing situation and also introduce the fabric development team to the mills.

2) Consultancy on a Fee Paid Basis. Apparently, in the initial stages, work an the Centre had been concentrated on research. ¡JJW a new policy had emerged. This was to provide a consultancy s ervice to the textile industry with fee« char: ed for the technical services of the counterpart personnel. The idee, while not necessarily aimed at making a profit, is to make each department, Fabric Development, Süinning, Weaving, Dyeing Bnd Finishing, Textile Testing and Industrial Engineering, self-sopporting. It was of ccurse understood that the work of the U.K.I.Ü.D. experts was furnished under the tern-s of the technical aid programme and fees charged frr consultancy work did not apply to them. -14- •

The ida« as sxpxaaaad by tha projact co-manager,who is alsc the director of the Centre, is that if one of the Cantre* s consultancy teams working et a mill charcas a fas for tha survey rspcrt and findings, then the company concerned is much mora liaola to take action on the recommendations given than if tha technical assi-iranca hae been provided free of charge. This point is well taUan.

Obviously if fsea are to be charged by the Centra for fa-ric development work, cloth analysis, print designing and narket surveys, one of the important features of the work orogranme tnrournout the year, apert from training the countsrparta to taka ovar a t the s ne of the esaignment, is to build up a strong reputation for tna teen, so thst they will continue to get consultancy assignments after the expert hes left.

3) Promotion of Interest In Fabric Development Throuch Articlaa in "Distaff". The Centre is producing a auarterly technical magazine "distaff" and this is circulated free amongst all the textile mills. It providea an excellent opportunity for the pre3entetion of new ideas and informing industry ebout research and development work being carried out.

In order to promote intsrest quickly L~ r.evi cesigra x-s Fabric Development Expert wrote an article "The -hys and ..'heref o ras of Product Development" which apoeared in the July/Ssptemjer ias^e. T'^a script wes cleered before publiceticn by the project manager,

Another feature entitled !lr"esric üsvaloomsnt Ssason to Bse-jn" '--.as sppeared in two parts in the Cete jar/December e^d January/.>ril publications. 3oth the marketing research and development officer, Mr. Taufiq, and the print designer, Miss. Habita Faxooqui contribute regular articles to the magazine.

4) Froli-inarv survey in the :srec!-i .-r; during t_s pcricd June/J _iy/Au 7; us t 1;7S i scr.td-ie 2* vis textile "a~ uf ?.c tu ri ~> 2 urits L~* z~s îr~ci ar*3 ",ra *i=_

distan i;si:'- .rstit-ts .na ::r::.2'J --t. T~; -ill - 15 -

Adamje« Ttxtilt Milli Mohammad Faroo* Textile "'ill» Gulahmed Textil« Milli Star Textile Milli Jubila« Spinning and .iaaving "Ulla Raahid Textile Mills Sultan Knitting and ûarment Factory

Qriant Faahiona (makers up)

At aach mill our policy was first of ail to make a tour of tha various departments in order to see what machinery was «vailacls ani what !

5) yieit to th« Pakistan Deainn InsjSilyH.. During to the Pakistan Design Institute we had e very interssting discussion with the Senior Advisor, Dr. Hans VJ. Uttingsr. Thay have a staff of four working on tha production of new orint cesigns under the guidance of a Swiss des'gner. However, trey did s::?rsis disappointment at the responss they had had from industry in attempting to sail their designs ta the Tills. Thay were of ths opinion that many companies preforrad to copy designs instead of inveating a little money in the e evelonment of original ioeaa. The Design Institute has also s snail handloon weaving section for experimental oattern oroduction.

5) findings of trh« Preliminary Xill Survey. The first point of note wes that the majority of mills visitaci «no

were doin: overseas business were still exporting yarn and gray cloth. Sone of the laeding mills, ho'-.ever, -.ad considers ala success vji.tr, f-'nisi'Bd '"aarics and were 3eilin^ ori-ted bahsheets sn-J crto-rnngs in ths Scandinavian, Polisn, ~; usi i an -r¿ Romainim r.o.r'tsts. --'.¿20 noted that in every case where appert crners were being o^ts-insd, the mararinc director or t^e saie3 -onager at the mill in Cu = :;-.:- visitsd the -icrkets concerned regularly i" order +c evslusts -ari.et

T 8 q •_ * - ~ = - - 16 -

In the casa of the othar mill« which war» exporting grev clcth thay had very little, if any, contact with tha markata in the leading textile importing countries. Actually, there were instances where mill« ware only interested in trying to export fabrics designed for the Pekistan home merket. The idee being that second quality fabric rejected ea being uneuiteble for export could then oe sold locally. Other inatancee were encountered where the mill receives a print febric from an oversees buyer and is esked to copy this and to suomit e counter sample. Then, if the submission ia approved, orders ere placed.

MARKET I^m^uÇE

7) SiffiQlii Showing. Tmnrii in Fabric n^ion far ?„t0na .nn :>,-** America. Summer/'^ntar 1 973/11] . Although the first series of nestings proved very valuable in aatablishing e direction for our work plen, it eppsared certain that our efforts would be mors successful if we could show samples of new febrics illustreting colour end style trends in lseding world markste, Thia was sure to stimulate more interest in'febric develooient.

As e result of this, letters were sont out to twenty six publishers of textile, technicel and fashion magazines and companies supplying febric samples illustreting the latest jest-selling ds3i:ns in tre major markets. Details of subscription costs and samóles of octh publications and fabric were requested. The response was very gratifying and from two companies in Paris we received fourtocn oooks of samples illustrating and cotton dress and snirtin ; f a.;rics, woollen sportsweer, mensweer, ladies woollens, cotton and polyester/ cotton leisurewear, aummer prints, wr'nter prints, woven furnishing«, and printed soft furnishings.

a) EiBJBnftiflP. Of NiW Plions at the M.Ttif T>YÍf!"f An exhibition of the new fabrics as arranged for the oenefit of tne delagatss attending the Tripartite .-.dview heetinr held on the 17t*- September, 1973. As the total coat of the proposed annual inscriptions was JS 14,314 it was reccsoary to oetao-rov^l VT this e:;pe-c:iturr "ro^ the nroject fu-.d ^efcrs *I-M< > «» r^,,i~ any >_se coul: tre - 17

,«-nl-3. ¿Ho. th.B Gov.rnnent Joint 5e.ret.ry r.qua.ta, details „f tne -crk.ting end faoric development orogran^e end how it was oroposed to c.rry out the project objective.,•namely, identify _ s-u^3 of information on world fashion and trends in cotton r aorxc d-s'icr, process this information and nake it.v.il.bl. to industry. Than, advise the nills on the cevelopnant of new fabrics meaningful within the technical limitations of the textil, industry and assi.t with their test -narketinç and e valuation.

Data concerning the work scheduled was provided to the meeting and particulars of ho« the samóles would be presentad to th. null, m order to orovid. the necessary stilus to oromot. fabric develop- ment. The exhibition- •uJ+;nn u,..was receivedreceiver most .*•- enthusiastically oy tne d.l.,.t.. and a..-i..x0n g.v.n for th» pl.cin, of .uosoription.wxth tb- fashion hous.s conc.rn.d. It s-uld b. noted th.t du. -o th. hi^. cost fetor only on, of th. two co.p.ni« who h.d «nt us ..„!.. could b. ..l.ct.d to .uopi, th. C.ntr. in th. '«*«••*• oth.r cono.nv. how.v.r, -h." n.tifi.d of our d.ci.xon. v.ry kxndly .11».. u. to k..p th. .Ibun. th., h.d «nt for un on th. proj.ct.

tlt in tn th lilÜ 9) PT.„.T„H„n of »Ti" <" "-" '' ' " ' Ir = -d»r to cr..t. . bisf« ir.p.ct .nd .l.o to prot.ct our »uro. of .uhbxy, all th. ,,.t= « rc.rr.ng.d in . =o-ordin.t.d ,.nn... A."«.. th,n 300 ..p.r.t. ..„pi., «ore invblv.d. th». . r.th.r l.nothy prop.... no«v.r, it ... n.c....ry to . r.xn th. o-unt.rp.xt.'to do thi.. .. one. furth.r ...pi., »t.rt to .rrxv. this will h.v. to b. don. Oh . r.rul.r b..i. b.for. ..= h ...X.. bf mill visits. »1- th. —I., w.r. «unttd on c.rd. with th. C.ntr.' .t th.

too. A= .n ...m.l.. . .hxrtin, f.bric w.. .ho.n lono.xd. . co-ordxn.ting f.bric for ,l.ck. .nd . .uit.bl. print. 3..x,n. for •kirtxng, wer. pl.e.d .long.id. print, which cr..t.d colour h.r^cny.

.rd uoholst.rv f.bric. w.r. .hown with .uit.bl. .u.Mlnxn,.. Any

d..

d..-n. which would cu., -.reduction probi.», du. to th. t.chnxc.l

U-.it.ti = pS cnccunt.r.d in th. country's t.*til. indu.try w.r. eli- instecì. - 18 -

10) Schldyltti filiti to "ill« in the iiorth ..it Frontier Pm.inr. and the Punjab. In September and Cctober 1973 tha Fabric Development and Marketing group from the Centre made a series of visita to mills in the northern part ofthe country. The object was to show the new deaigna, stimulate intaraat in fabric development and meke the -lilis aware of the design s ervices available from tha Centra.

Aa it was impossible to viait all the mills in the area, tha more progressive compeniea ware c hosen as being the ones nost likely to benefit from our ideas and suggestions. It should be stressed at this point that if the Cantre is to chiavi succaas in tha technical assistsnca and conaultation field, then it ia essential to build up a fixât claaa reputation, and thi« is being given priority durine thi time that the Expert ia in the field. The f ollowing c ompanias were visitsdt-

Janana Da Malucho Textile Mills, Kohat, ;ì;,F? Colony Sarhad Textile Milla, üowahara, uWFP Lawarencepur Woollen Mills, Lawarencaput, Punjab Watax of Pakistan Ltd., Lahore, Punjab National Silk and Rayon Mills, Faisalabad, Punjab ~ Adam Textile Industry, Foisalabad, Punjab Sitara Printing Industry, Faisalabad, Purjaj Creacent Textile ::ills, Faisalabad, Punjao Lyallput Cotton 'ills, Faisalabad, Punjao Kohinoor Textile 'ills, Faisalabad, Punjau Shamaa Textile Kills, Chinait, Punjao Gultex Industries, ."ultan , Punjaa Colony Textile Mils, "ultan, Punjab

11) 3«luAt8 gf Mill VMitl in ,Y.7FP and Ponían. Aa a direct result of our visits and discussions many -f the r.ills requested our assistance in planning and setting up a f abric develop* mt programme. In print designs ;.a were asked to provide paintings of forty five new designe besed or colours and iueas derived "ron the samoli which were shown. ¿ach desi-n was rehired to •nw ó f.. 11 repeat and three or four aitarne tiv« :olcur combination i n ;•. 2v;n ces-'.^no eir~tc=_r -ere selected os besic ipeas arc coPE-.r'.ctio" j - wem war!:ed cut. adificetiens '..sr? cde in the fscri - 19 -

eila-le. OTOúüZB ti-e- on he machinery av

shown àn E calaur-coordin.t.d nannins: on The '.•-•a^ 'ur sarr.plea were c-.d. attracted many favourable con,.nt. and w. war. asked by five In^ advise tH.i. P.OP1. i" .«»nçin, . --»-^n;" th8,r nwn fabrics. Thi. work w.s c.rri.d out mediately at t... „ H We l.t.r contactad thair ..la« office m grechi mills concernaci. "a laxer to r-sl? then in a similar manner.

t.^ai-gT P. ESE ARCH

P„a TTt'o first in.oort.nt »fissiono r.e.iv.d oy th. n.rx.t.nc

.Hal. of t„. r.uîi Fo.no.tion. ,Ho ,p.,.t. two »„ -;'-"'

th. Fu„ja„ Jh.Uu» T«til. Mil. 3rd Lyellpur Cotton . x.1.. Sn.c'fic information provided v. «a as follow..-

"...Il d.m.nd .nd ..1« p.tt.rn of bl.n-d y«« •«• — . # hi.ndid varns JulyUJ1 1977 through Juna 1978. „1 Price oattern of blandea yarns J el Pnce pa f-btica Jul« 1977 through Juna 1.78. CÎ Price pattern of blended fabrics üUI. A) P-iea pattern of raw materials. Li.* .; -u — --/":: -:. :r:; ,;: ;rit monthly estimated production in kilogram.. IF.riod 1 9 through June 1973). f, Th. a f.ct of imoort.d ..«nd-h.nd clothing on th. n,.rk.t. .J ta-v-iln =o.t of ,00, cotton, cotWpdy.st.r .nd cotton/..»..

. ' • * th. de.irabilitw of crodueing blended yern. and h' '';dvire aocut the aeiiiiDi^k- fasica by the F.uj*i Foundation textile milla.

- nri-ited and data collected during » ..„.tin, oui.tionn.». .... », h ^^ . -^ +- -.; i 1 • A survey wis else conoucnu

in Uarachi, res.awax, K -ttachee at the united Also, whilet in Islamabad, tne correal tt.ch.a ^•i+i.h awed-ah, Australian, and -est oe—.an States, Canadian, jritxen, =wec-s , finures for Pakiatan En-.ssia. were visited in order to obtain export figures textiles tc those countries. - 20 -

tyfrrf DIRECTION li. f ApflIC DESIGN

13) Th- InttHdurHnn of Uohnl.terv end Soft ruin.llhlin FaiaSJCfl. On« of the areas identified as presenting excellent growth pcibiliti«. it the production of upholstery end soft furnishing fabric« for both the home end export markets. Although these types of cloth er« being produced in a sverai mills, the designs are traditional type jacquard figured fabrics. However, a survey of thefumitur« markets shows e high percantag« of plain and seni-plain dobby designa using thick slubby yards, boucles and chenilles. • ost of th««« cloth« «re either imported or woven on hand looms, and there i« a v«ry strong and s t««dy d«mand, especially in the contract furnishing tr«d« for hotel«, office furniture etc.

Sw.tches of s sverei upholstery yarns were shown, togethor with the type» of y.rn r.quir.d to produce similar cloths. We wars aol« to provide four mill« with sufficient ¿«ta regerding faoric conetruction, yem siz«, colouring plan« and finishing procedures, in order that thay could start making samples. This market ia limited, howaver, as nan» mills do not have loons with reed width »uffici.nt to produce 5b" wide fabric. Th« main feature of this type of cloth is esse of production. Utilising polyester/

cotton yarns in TT's «nd *• a cotton count with 10 r 12 anco oer inch in the loom and 8 to 10 picks per inch, for plain weave or 2 x 2 , the rate of production ia very high. Also, due to the thickness of the yarn and the fact that polyester is used in the olenc, very few thread breakages occur. The result is that loom stoppages are insignificant and second quality fabric due to broken enas or pick» negligible.

gxPAiviaiuw ¿F C:;:S-LTA;.CY .,ChK

14) Saturn Jisj*« to Mill« in the .Carachj Area- During th. preliminary survey of tha loca mills at the beginning of

the assignment we had not revived the collection of new f3jri^ samples fror. Paris. As these rad gen-rated a terrific amount of interest aronç the mills in the nort'-, 2 second seri20 of ar;: = int-e-ts were set up with the local co "iconic -:reviousiy visitée1. ,-cin, the now designs produced an immediately favjuracle reaction. /• z a result it has now recone very important zz j.irt receiving nsi: este -v sa-n^o =cc'- -cnth. This will nrclc LS to continue juil.:in-- " - 21 -

, • *„..t c — te* in order to sscure more tachnical t,e .-crdwill and interest c —t- dev/elopment insultane, ..siatvnent. and consolide .he prarra-.e or a firm basis.

„*• TPnuests from various mills and TbBr= „s= . staady «.. ^ - woikj tQg8ther .lth th.

creations for clot . .!>.- ions f„ the.sic„s an, new

qr.„...«on of -nufec - P- - has ^ ihe

f.«!«. .ol.ct.d ty th. ... - ; int cloths ha„s b«„

des.rt-.nt very busy. A «*•»£• and fitf. end f.e.

„.,,inBd. ^^"^awns =nd '1 n . or roner telling

„teen,, terry towel «, f» • » ^ ^^ (1„,

ird.,.,«.l differentwelghts n h. . ^ ^^

witl-. details =f v.-.«.. -1 „oc.dur„. end ueftinr plan and orooosed .in-s..-n.

j _•-„ ih'« neriod. j was .. witn,^+h wici.with î-'ohamnad BuI nain consultancy work dur.nr -h P=r „ pne of th.

r.,0«,. Textile «ill. in *>""^ ^^ b„n wolking very closely

„ere forward lookin, copies —" "'JT D.,lgn spocific.tion. with then on the develop^ of new coouc« , •^-ri to them for -ncnuf acturing triais have been provided to them curt8-ininc c lc th in

trials are no» peino carried oui: to .pin . *P^ ^ ^

B0l1(Kt.r/eott.n in th.« own P - ; plans t„

1 -hoice -—;-;" ' i :;::ti;n, lf th. „*.t reaction i. oroduce six new styles. * • « P „# Hminns vili be extended. favourable, tne rs g» •rf.d technical assistance to th.ir printing départant ,e ,,,e also oro,, ed t.chmc „^.„^ ctintinS proe...

in th. selection of " ^ , ^ t0 be orint=d in on. „ix on on.

Nhich „.,,.. four - " ;B periencing diffiCulty in pettino th. relier or screen. They were v ^ ^ ^ ^^ -cr.tiraticr. hat

rinht cercentaoe of each shsds :. ." = - ^ ^ ^ yp

,J3in, a selection ^«* - ^ ptpvided ^ dyehou„ :¡::: r. -r.1/"-: '----*- •— <« —ts- - 22 -

16) Warn Kn^ttjn,

St.» Fabric. . ...u hut „,p.ndlng „arp knitUng ^ =antact

Cntr. requ.sting guid.nc. ln „„„„„. dauilop,,nt- ^ "

CO.p.ny tcdi.eu.. th. possibility of Jsing polysst.r/cottcn yarns

J" «""-. -i.".. Previously th.y had 3„n knitting son lnuoui 7 yarn, mto i.c. curtaining, ,nd Ugh t drs53 Th.y had soma d.finit. enquiries iron, th. .„partp n.rk.t .-,«n h H ..,i.. o,. ,.lrly h..wy el8th wlth. rai„d , ni» ;,;. inr t= -.„. thi. .„ th.ir Karl Mayer flachel ,ichinej> 0n inil;,s "

Cloth ... found to b. , ,t.„d.rd f.irly ,^pl.

t.,t„»..d poly..t.r w.rp. However, it h.d . fairly thjJ n., «tton yarn, probably «.. count, inlaid in th. Mft di„ "

th.« *3hlnM did not h.„. .„ attachent for ..ft i„ia,

.cd.d that th.y ,hould contact tne a ctur.r to a.. J Z „a.

av.,1.01. and could b. fitted. If thi, i. poaai=ls then J^.""

f I d X pm t 0rk C,n bB Calri3d Ut d ** ". "" ° '" " ° '" -dictions ,er= "v.n »o.xdxno a po.,ibl. ,0UIC. Gf aupply f„ ^ .^ «-«"

QEMBTIIRF PF PB^.rrr ,^-n .,rf||rn _. f M | AKD CLêHIP»! CTtrr

171 unirli titration n,|rip. i(.n T, . -

During i:ov8(iber and Deceder of 1'=?3 -rB •.•..„,„ c

c SBI niSh.d th.ir assists ar,c as th. ¿ ct tor_ „J^^"* C al n USCemD 31 : : - ° " «-»lni.t„ti« person^ and „0,B,t dr, , Jr nn^had ,.:, Fortunately, th. contract af pre pf -< - ""

«. -tended unti! ,,y ln order to ntnvide transport ,„ ¿„"-l' Dev.loo.ent Exp„t. Than 08rRission _ =iven * -;-•««

«-. _;<- ; transport problem. " - " *Cuit

In January 1979 the y.„_.nd inventory ,„ ^ ^^ l'ïar was ta«n oy tne ,-sbric Development îxcert and the Project -a-; ar.s-ar. «veral items which did not appear on tha liât of I.. supplice n.;r- s^endaile ecuipment were disceveri -rj 2d.^. ;iJ' and inspection report was orepared in - r3s ect af 2 p=C.i£..= +s 11•-: 3 !:PStinn 2c_ip^ent • nicn was doli f Centre at t: 3 3 t!"2 'Ont-. ire 'ss j e « n -- c lere.9e a-c.rt of £; •'- 'sr, connected witn the of the oro :--1 - 23 -

• P'sars to hi -ve atiiin due te c=ntin,sd ao.anc. of locally r.cruitec office ,t.ff taking accunuUtcd Lave during r.ov. .r a rab nd uec-r.oBT, the last two ^ontn3 of the project.

f L .îaLIS^TIi-fl THfi, FABRIC a^^yPWENT PHC^RAN;:..r

rirc • 1979 '"" * ' |n''b F«ST-rY

In = rder to str.ngth.n th, worl: alr=3d don. .XDBri.„ r B ce 9«.n=d by th. count.rp.rt. , furt.,„ 3erl„ of „iu";^ """ " eB„,.neins in P„;,.„.r on Flbru„y „ ^

= r-s a.- coula ce shown. iswsve*-Jivsve lti + ,,.. -i • Drr. • •. . . '' was discovered that th«

.uppiy =f „.„ flbrle 1.mol„ ani ..iihion Fo , ; ^*'

»*..*.«• in ,uguit. ,„,. Th„ requiiitiQn fo;m< v - »

r.cDiv.d instruction, to .t.tt „nding th.».

Fortunately, we had «hnn + on * u • - - «-* -: - - "-- t-^c :;:.:"n:;r°"n ::::: -^ th. ori9inil displ.y „/:.„*::;: ; - -h> whole presentation . conpl.tely n.w look.

-ring the ,8cond tour, .ill, wno had shown Uttl., if ,ny int.r.lt m product development durine our . m^ i mr *• mt.r.at nn1 ir" x *: :d ,?sin if aurang""•pernitt our earner"- «"meetinga -" -««- with them« • were«" itinery was:-

Colony Textile fiiils, úowehera, NWFP

Khyber Textile Mills, 3aldh.ir, *»*>

F.uji Textile Mills, Jh.llum, Punj,b ¿••n.t Textile Industries, Gujr.nw.l., Punjab Sh.h.en Textile Industri.., Gujr.nw.l., Punj.b

Moh.nmid Weeing and Finishing Industri.,, Gujr.nw.l.. Pun Ly.llour Cotton Kills,--.-.a, ,Faiaal.h.H aisaiaoad, oPunjab • J«o. f-ishat Tsxtile "*i i i c ~-,• ._i «,_ _. » I.J.J.B uis, . eisalabad, Punji_.io : Z.enat Texti'» ;- ni "•-..-1 »W.J a -J..S,s , eiselabad, Punja:ib - 24 -

Sitara Printing Industriai, Faia'alabed, Punjab United Printing Industria«, Faisalabad, Punja- Kauaar Printing Induatriaa, Faisalabad, Punjab Five Star Industrias, Faiaalaoed, Punja; Burewala Textile Milla, Burewele, Punjaa Gultex Induatrias, Multar., Punjab am experienced soms intsrruptian to our Drogramme due to heavy rain and roada waahad out, ae some visits involved s journsy by road of 130 milee and more from the place where we were staying. Hawevar, whan we arrived back in Karachi it had been a very successful trip and we had certainly achieved whet we had set out to do.

19) Th. >!i^n»i rnii.^^ nf T^t^i Tachnolnnv. rsiialisidi r Before leaving Faisalabad we were eble to fit in a visit to trie National Callage of Textile Technology. After a tour round tha apinning, weaving, and dyeing and finishing departments, as well as the phyaicel endchemicel testing laboratories, we had in in-.arssting and fruitful diacussion with the vice-principal. Although the college conducts coursea in spinning and weaving technology, thsre ie no specific deeign course as such. It is fait that tnis is a serious oversight end it reflects the acute shortage of desigrers with the necesssry beckground in taxtile technology. : ost textile designers one meets here tend to nave be.-n trained only on tns artistic side. More will be said ajout this later in this report, both in the findings end recomnendatione.

20) ^amnloa Selected. Referring to the samples which had been shown durine our tcur in the north of the country, seventy seven print designs «tri sslsctic ¿y verious milla. Developing the ideas -"rom these samples will keep our design studio busy for four cr five months. .-.l30, =.s eli the

best desirns have now gone fron OUT ccllsction it will rc-¿ -'.e advisable to show it acain until n-v; styles have :e-~ recsi-^d ^ - = ^ Paris and a completely new présentation arenared. - 25 -

BE3I3.J T¿LC:i ...LÛ3Y

21 ) äone tamalea of Problems encountered. Cn the technical side and in woven design» we also received a considerable num-er of soecific commission». At one of the mill« viaitsd we spent most of the day working in the showrooms reorganising their methods of display. All current designs were sorted into coordinatine styles end then swatched with plain and semi-plain fabrics. Then discussions were held with the Head ¡jesigner, the uycinn and finishing -.»nager and the Printing Manager regerding the question of matching colours used in the woven design», the printed desinns and the piece-dyed faúric3. Finally, a selection of colours weg drawn up which would result in a new look, giving harmony ana coor- dination tc the styles which had been selected for trials.

Another proulem encountered was in the weaving of terry towelling faarics. The company w» ware visiting had sanple» from China but were having difficulty in producing a neat . On examination and after checking the loom» it w as obvious that two factors wer» causing the difficulties. Firstly, incorrect tensioning of the warp beam containing the pile yern was resulting in a rather ragged and uneven pile. Secondly the gap between the fell of the cloth and the two succeeding picks of weft, which controls the height of the pile required, was found to be too large. Adjustments were made to the construction of the fabric and the difficulties disapoeared.

In the north of the country in winter tine the climate is cold and there is a considérenle demand in the market for cotton blanket» with a nepDBd finish. .ve saw »one very nice samples of this typ» of fabric which had been imported from China. However, the mill which wes trving to repioduce the cloth could not get the finish right. They were obtaining a vary nice napoed surface but this rubbed off v»ry • asily and the feerie was obviously not suitable for the projected end use. The finishing routine being followed west- a) Two passes over the napping machine in the grey state. b) Scour. c ) ¿ye. d) ^ne further pass over the napping machine. e) âtenter. - 26 -

As the fabric waa plain weave and a good was- obtained af tar two passas in tha gray state, the solution to tha problem had to be in • rearrangement of the finishing procedure. It was pointed out that scouring and dyeing after napoing, combined with the resultant shrinkage, binds the nap or cover into the fabric satisfactorily. However, the final paaa over the napping machine after dyeing, was looaening the surface egain. The suggested change in the finishing of the fabric wast- a) Three paaaee over the napping machine in tha grey stats. b) Scour. c) Dye. d) stanter. e) Light 3ruahing.

This proved to be the aolution to the problem.

Theae inatancee illustrata tha method being used to expose counter- parta to every aspect of design technology and product development. An easential part of our work here is to be involved in all the different phases which are necessary to produce a new fauric from the selection of row materials to the marketing and evaluation of the finished cloth.

22) Spinning Trials usina Short. S+3Pia ?rA ^c|ir. After a meeting with the Technical .'"aneger cf Ame al Fieras Coraany, Hong Kong, it was decided to run sore spinning trials using a s.-.orter ataple polyester of 31 mm instead af the usual 38 mm fiare. The advantage of using the shorter fióre is that the combine nrocsss can be elininated, reducing spinning casts. First results _f t.-ase spinning trials hove produced a yarn wnich is slightly more •„nev.'n

and not quite as strong as that using the longer fibr* . ,.owf arrangements are in hand for bullí spinning trials to oe z arrisd out at one of the mills, followed by the weaving of several ss^lcs so thet the yarn can be fully evaluated 30th in tre grey erc finis-.ee fs-ric. Details regarding cloth construction snd suitable weaves are -in- prepared. - 27 -

P-£a¿..TATl .-, r-.i .1 ::ú c; .se

„) =--...^.. Se

\1iya» training course in Product Levelocment and ,asic r.arketing at

th¡ ^rtre. Aoclications were received from four mills. This course was cased mainly on the design .anual written by the Faune

,..,el-r^t Exnert during a previous assignment and printed and

¡uu,,sHcd o, -....I.Û.C., -ienna, in February 1978. Adoitional material was provided by i'iea Haciba Farooqui covering printing, and ;-r. Taufiq lhaffar on marketing. -j „„ : „rrla^ An-'l 7 by Dr. i.ia: Ahmed, who yue goH-nsr WBS opened en aaiuraai,ai *n_~x i -y

WB'coned the delegates. Then, the syll.bue was introduced in general

t.~.. .--t:, emphasis on the provision of sufficient ti e 'or open

d¡9C,,B:nn. The first two days, Saturday and Sunday, were used to

9¡u,..,¿ „lanino related to printing and t he theory of colour. Cn the Monda*. :-.r.- Ma: "ugnai, the SDC, spoke on the subject of desinñ. Tuesdav and Wednesday were devoted to Product Development end ¡tv a subject was covered by the rabrrc Development Expert. The lectures were planned to include both technical d et.il and a general

ov-rall aspect of the subject. The planning and preparation of seascnel fabric ranges was explained fully, together with styling in

rBia--on to men's and l.die.wear fabrics. Home furnishings were fussed and also methods of identifying sources of information on

w0"-l^ fashions and trends in fauric design. Then it was explained how this could be made available to industry. To "finalise thaao lectures the subject of new methods of fabric manufacturing was ircl-Ged. This was *eant to i- press upon thec ellgatea the importance of keeping in touch, not only with fabric style and colour. out alsc what new production machinery is coming on stream and what affect this will have on the market. Multi-phase looms were_de.lt with and their affect on the intense competition between weaving and

kr--t*inC| also tri-.xiel weaving. Finally, some brief information

wss provided aoout computer system in r elation to and an explanation of the operation of the "Digitex" computerised ale-t-onic design svstem for double fabrics. On the last day of the sminar *r. faufique Shaffer presentee his paper on marketing, after which there was a discussicn oeriod and then the award of _ certificates to the delegates. - 28 -

FINALISA HON OF WORK PLAN

24) Concluding the Anianwtnt. At the time of writing, there remeina a pproximately three week» left in the aaeignment. During this period there ara a everel technical conauitancy projacta which heve to be finalieed. Spacificationa hava to ba preparad for a polyester/cotton fabric with a decorativa monotona random alub waft, and alto a polyester/cotton gacardine and calullar shirting. Than, five or six day» will be devoted to a reviaion of the year's work in order tnat the counterparts hava the opportunity to diacuaa eny procedurea they ara not sure about. A thorough briefing will then ensure that they are ready to take ever full reaponaibility for the continuation of thefaoric development and marketing programme. The laat task will ba to clear out the afficee which have been occupied by the ¡J.u.I.D.Q. staff since the beginning of tha project. Thia will involve the packing of all fila« for remeval to U.N.D.P. Islemabad and tha aorting through of seven yeera of accumulated literature, magazinea, reporte, U.N. newsletters etc. ate. Thia will ba neceeaary so that ell useful technicel metería! can be placed in tha Centre's library, all blank adminetretive forns handed over to the locel U.N.D.P. office for use on other project», and eny other peoere which ere irrelevent and net neadedin the -uture, ¿ sstroyed. - 29 -

F I iw ¿ lì a3

of th< Cotton FI) Ji-,a ,.stnir S^nrt "Ths §turfw Tintili ¡"tiUlUV

Thic survey csrried out by the Ministry of Industries under the «us-ices of the „orld 3enk was published in June, 1978, aoout on« month aftsr the Fabric Design expert arrived to start his asaignnent. The '-.écart was very well oresented, detailed and thorough, and orovided « colleta oicturs of the Textil« Incustry and the serious problem. still existing everywhere.

After studying the fi sport in crder to famili.rise himself ouickly with conditions in ths industry, the writsr was rsthsr perturoed .•:ith the • normity of the problems despite nore than six years of tschnicsl assistance. At th« request of the Government a short review of the Meri-eting and Product Development sections of the tepcrt wss prssentsd .after clearance "by the Project Manager. . .

F2) Fabric Dsvelonm.nt in the Mils alititi- A vary small percentsgs, probsbly no more thsn 10îS of ths mills visited had any worthwhile programe of febric development or G ssign fscilities for orints. There wss a big emphasis on production figures, with littls, if eny, quality control. It should also bs ncted that s lat of ths mills nave only olain looms so this puts s limitation on the types of cloth which cen bs oroduced. In s situation such as this it is mors i-oortant than ever to have a design «tudio end a comcetent designer. Styling of new end different fabrics within the narrow limitations aet by ths absence of dobby • looms tax3S the ebilities of the d «signer to the limits. howsvsr, the large slice of world textile markets obtainsd by mills manufactur- ing top cuaity plain and semi-plain fabrics auch as , calico, sailcloth, hopsack, , buckrar, gabardine, etc. etc. amc'Ttsises the importance of this type of d ssigning. - 30 -

Cotjraa in T rilB F3) Ttin i.rw nf qp ftrtini-** ^ ntiinnlno at tht

Th. importane, of d..ign .nd colour is being cv.rlock.d and it is not g.n.r.lly r..li.«d by th. mills that the positive way to increase ,.1.. i. to build up a fir.t class reputation for good cesigns cacked

by proper m.rk.ting and th. u.. of »name brands". A few cf th. l.rg.r mill. .r. following this coursa and hav. been very successi :n cr-.ting a popular d.m.nd for thair product,. In fact, there nava b.en instane, of sn.ll.r mills copying dasiom which have .sen oiq ..liars and even infringing =n th. trade •r*a.of these cancan«.

In a.veral mill, wh.r. th.ra was an aotiv. product devalcc-ent and .«mpl. weaving, action, th. d esiger had been trained overseas and was r.c.iving the full and enthusiastic cooperation of the •nara^r.ant.

Th. lack of a oropar cours, in taxtila design at the ..tional Collage of T.xtil. Technology in F.isalabad is contributine directly to the .eut. .hort.g. of axpari.ncd designers. In a lot of t he .ills m.nag.r. in th. spinring, waving and finishing sections .-ad att.ne.d and graduat.d from textile college. Maimers who are a^ to no ov.raaa. to atudy have a t.nd.ncy to regain in the country w.-.ars thay h.va attended collsg. aft.r graduating. So the only section in th. long term ia to orovida adequate facilities at ho•.

FA) Vir1' "f Information on .vcrld It "is imooasiole to work in 3 desigr stuc io r^clstel" i? = l = te< fron the m.-ior world markets and produce the ri .nd !

rth A-erican and rar ¿astern niarUsts *B an Takinn the Eurooean, riO .xa^ole, t^ere is a continuous eacbar-e of desicn ideas :s-«- -ns« ; i n^T9 ,f th e visits cf d ~t ' £"d markats. This is '.inly ç C 1 r • c r t z -1 fa :ric development managers to ~x ens a ~ r s •- c \-i î i textile centres. Also, annasi desim co — etitiors are sev-ral courtries «hich all helo t= - 31 *

PS) Tri ^n-Lu, of the Zssi^iJ^S-lZZ&U f fragment. of an adecúate trainine; urse Th*'s is dirsctlvdirectly relatedrelates to ~~s :a^.acn - • -" -• -- ._ „g.^'rccnnalogy. In laaciing -ills throughout the world the disi.-r.sr is a very important T.anúur of th. ^^9«^nt tear., however» u. --- --•>,. -entriate in direct relationanip to his technological t^n^ind industrial experience, and the former is ar absoluta

„.r.gs-'iv f8 a oasis for a successful csreer. To be accepted gn.ir. 3„n^~ n.naganant it is necessary to have a thorough uncar- st8n:in, cf Bli ph.sea of ma^fect'-rin; and training in tna purely

ITtiltiC îSpîCtS_*_ OT«#^««inn - esign heji—3 ^s nod n rovi, da this«

"£) _^j'^^i,n- j,n Relate?" If pesiar. f finished cl'jtr -etwaan the domestic and exoort Jh?. -Jistri ;ution o —roxi-atsl- 90% tc the forrar with a ^ere 10% gcing --S o^a.a. V. oui, ásales -a ..en traditionally handled through abanta although recently so-«, of the larger mills have .acore involved in nromoting direct selling through their own anops. It i. particularly" notic.bl. that wncr. this new syst.n has o.en adoptad d.a-ans offered to the public are nuch better. Th. .gent, often of ing. tanda to play safe in r esp.ct of th. guidance giv.n lone s tanuing, As . result styles tend to be very tradit.onal on design trends. .rd~-aoaci*lly in print, have a strong tendency towards a multiplicity of very oright. ^J. colours, i -a-ita•.•?+• nftenoften in .• vervv.r. unhirmonioul arrangement •

FT) Thff S.adv/Tliit j|rn«nt SectOI.

T-8 na::in, up of garant, for export is thriving out only in a vary avérai f astoriei nada it obvious tret thia

supply rJ- suitable f aarics

.ents rsor.aant tr.a ultimata in v.lu.-.da.d product, and =.5£riy-rad ?r obvio-ai* trends in style ano colour were be.ng followed closely. 3 b vi o llected durine visits to the markets in the information being co - 32 - countries to which the garments were being axportad.

F9) Pesian Consultancy Services. The present design team at the Centre consisting of one senior davelopnent officer and two research and development africa« is quite inadequete to provide the services evieaged when taxing into account the veste size of the country'3 textile industry. A large numjer of mills have no deaign s tudio facilities whatsoevar and this work could be done by the Centre provided the staff anc f scilitiss are ax andad. Whilst the team have worked vary hard during ths past year to build up a reputation for both technological know-how and aervica, the benefits.of this will soon ba lost if there are leng delays between the selection of designs jy mills, requests far assistance in the development of new fabrics, and the completion of this work. The provision of colour photographs of 3elacted dssij-ns to the mills should only be looked upon as e temporary ms£3urs. It will be neceeaary to provide more paople with artistic ability to paint out deaigna and provide alternata colourwaya.

F9) Facilities for Samnle Production m± tha Centra. There are no provisions for experimental pat tern production at tna Cantre other than two plain looms which wara installed wit," tra soia intantion of training weavers 2nd loen fixsrs. The Wationai Soilage of Textile Technology in Faisalaoed '•as axcellent f scili ties ~i. tria work -ut it is only classed as a sub-centre in relatior to tha Karachi headquarters. i.aturally, it is presumed that t'-a cciiegs will always function primarily as a teaching establishment. In point of fact it was found that the "sisalaesd sub-centre was ~"nr jettar equipced all-round machinery-wise than the ^arac'i -entra .nicn is trying to provide the lead in research and development end consultancy work. no) iaurcea sf Sei4gr idna and, ,aw ^u Althcur'- arrsnns-ierts are in herd ,Vr tre rerular s>-roly SWS te!-, 2 s indicating d Gsigr trenes CVíISíGS, SLCSC rip tic *V. r r thrj'-çr. tre project fj d are cr! _ear. it is , r c - -J -:• r, t '-. a t i - r " i c u 1 ti e 3 v. ill :e .- n c c u r rro7idin-- 2doc..- ta '-.s t: c:n-';inj3 witr. tris once t¡"= . a^ -J3CrÍctÍOr3 -î.'r lo"-£-d. IT t_Ì3 is allowed to nacrer. +,-! - 33 - t.-.c *5'.:i.c development and ra ri; e tin.;- department will b« in jeopardy.

F11) .^svolo-iman» of Library Facilitiaa. Tha Cantre receives several gocd technical publicationa but thera it no dafinita systam of circulation for thsaa. Quita oftan thay ara laft in different officea, unread, for long perioda. While technical information in these booka ia very useful in all departments, the correct interpretation of articles on fashion and colour tronds haa ta be dona immediately ao that this information can be mede eveilable to industry quickly.

F12) H?u»ehald Tantile«. Seft Fumishinra end uphalitirw fflBrica. Theaa products account for leea than 13,1 of the a alee volume in Pristan and yet many mills nave not seen eble to identify the opportunity for growth which exists in this a action of the market. Certainly, there are at leaat two companiea who are leaders in the field, jut even they produce a let of their cloth on handlooma. Thera ara a lot of small furniture manufacturing units in the Karachi area and acme very modern a tylea on show. Many of the imported fabric» used for upholatary could be made in the country and there ia a let of acopa for improving the deaign of f abrica used for curtaine, again another major outlet. - 34 -

RECOMMENDATIONS

AI) ÍHPiniion Qf tht Centri'a Aetiviti... The most important «commendation which has to be made is that, in ordir to be euccessful in providing tha conaultancy servicia to industry which ara envisaged, more equipment and trained personnel are required. In fabric development and designing, work has to be planned on a seasonal basis. /Jhan tha prsssnt RûC is awav visiting mills there is no-one at the Centra who can deal witn any prospective enquiries regarding consultancy work in woven design. Personal contact with all the mills at senior management level must oe mainteined in order to develop new designs, croduce samólas and evaluate theee in the market.

*2> Pavilion of Semole Production Machinery at the Cantra. Tha ultimata aim should bs to provide adequate preparation, weaving and knitting,machinery at the Centre for sample oroducticn and weaving and knitting trials. As far as looms are concerned there jshould be at leeet four capable of weaving any fancy dooby design up to ZQ harness with 4 boxes either side in order to nrodcce a wide variety_of waft patterns. Tha .read width should be in the region of eighty inchaa in order to weave both broad ana narrow width fabrics. Tne latter would be produced aide 3y sida if -scBsssr^.

A smoll hand loon weavinq section should also -JB set up with a minimum of 6 looms. This will en» la experimental work to be carried out quickly and with the ^ininum of expense.

Onca the Cantrs has its own sample production unit the fa' rie development progran me cen be more practically tailored to the country's needs. It will still be necessary to get samples and iueas "rem overseas markets but the number of sanples required will 33 Isss and this will result in some savings. '.aw ideas can be davslooed, san-ple yardage woven, and then garments -sec up for wear trials. small S'-atcns3 of sc-ie of the naw ds;.;rs can cs giown 1-, C'a quarterly issue of "Jistaff". - 35 - ml ijafa.Tv^aflnjii-^frirt f-i-'""i ?"i Tfn.1i 1" HntW" TrhrtB -»»"• LP-l -=;,hl= reduction nachinsry hos ,«n obtained and is run.m,, it .i," ,. necessary to continu, the annual subscription, so that sanple. c/n.w designs can b= received ..ci. nonth and industry k.pt inf-r-.d on the i.test developments in styling and f.oric devel pn.nt. Also, recular „ill visita nust be continuad in order to expand th. consultancy work.

Th-.

desiane are shown consecutively it will create a very S.o -**"•»" with'the resultant fall-off of interest in the activxtxes of the Centre.

h R„4> fn of » '•• "•T.D.D. Sehnln-Mp f°T * « S.8ii- Th. senior D.v.lop..nt Offie.« in Fabric 3,velop•ent,_Hr. --M-*«^.'. has'joined the Centre after extensive" industrial experience and „th an excellent reputation es a student during tn. ti». Ha attended the national College of Textile Technology in raiselaoad. He has

„0«...d very hard indead on the Pro-eçt.Snd I hav^ound.h^ vary _ • * _. . T-v+Me D-sioner, even thouoö ms eonraetent in his capacity as a Tex„-le u-sig i, .r-Trt ; basic training• - • .as . .„,more in relatrela-onon ioto Je.vino. Technology . ._ Ï. should

XT,."« 'reckend that h. be orentad a tailowshiPv He would benefit „enendcusly fro. exposure tc th. nsjor textile ..rxats in Europe and forth Africa. The fellowship should taxe the for» of visits, each of et least a weex-s duration to several of the ».J« international organisations, en the Unas of which th. K.r.chi Centr. is expected to develop in future ya.rs. » suggested itinery is as f°llD« .) Jisit to Intex.toff (this exhibition i, helo in a.fln.ny in 3pnn9

b) Th! :ntern.ti-nal Institute for Cotton, crussel., Belgium.

c) The international S.cret.riat,. .___* visit,houIJ be , ,.d. to both the London headquarters. eno„. j-up-he f .esearcr,»»search and Development "entre in Ilkley, Yorkshire, Enrland. - 36 -

d) Ths showrooms of Wildt Mellar -romley Ltd., j._n .Leicester, England. This company has an excellant .design d epsrtment geared to tha promotion of new styles and nsw fashion fabrics. The work is centered around their 6omputal

i) Cotton Incorporated, Research and Development Centre, in Raleigh, North Carolina, U.S.A.

I should like to stress that although soma of the aüove-mentionsd organisations are working in fibres other than cotton, £hey all have the most modern and un-to-Hata f *c--i-i-H «« for oroduct development bïcksdby some of the finest marketing and promotional d epartr.enta in existence.

The success of all fabric development work in the future •-.•ill demand on regular visits to the mein markets in ¿urope and .crth .-'--erica, obviously, fashion trends change very rapidly wnilst nsv; d eveloc -ant in manufacturing develop more slowly. I woulc recornrn-.nd, therefore, that the Senior Development Cfficar res-osnible fordesignin- ¿e • llov/ed to follow this pr-posal and also suggest that he ^e acconcanied by at least one other head of d eparJ:r-ent on each occasion. This '.-.ill allow the Centre to evaluate new developments in spin-iir-, •..saving, dyeing and finishing, printing, textile testing etc.

R5) The Acuta Shortage of Jesinnsr Tschr.olor.ists. It has already oesn emphasised thct, docpite the size of t'-c ::u-tr' 's textile industry .facilities for trui: in;: textile teen noie-ist- ir tre design field are very inadequate. Tsis nrcjeoly re'Iictj -';_ --cno extent the fact that cuite a lar;e ^'j;::jsr cf senior -la- -.?. -2- er . "curie have a -Lsiness training background. Th» shortage of do-;, --"--rs itr. the proper technological trainine; is moro scute than in other arucs. J

,n«=-r> *c votovi the existing feciiities 1 t It is, t,.«'«•:;;«; ";:¿¿¿n^ * r-.i..i...= •* -" .t *i ...txan.i.011.,. - Tach„ologic.l Certificate up « the City - Bulla, «f tondo Polyt. = hnic in K..«hi ' ,t„rt„rt. I would .1.0 r-eonr.no tn.t thy ^ ^ :* tn rater for m.ny prospective students TXO is cxpsnoed to cater TOI «nc.ot.d m.thod of

" thia situation as soon as posible. to r onedy

1 . Flf ^i^rjr-f Trrhrr-" »i-ii tunca

, .' ex"„„=ive industrial cxp.ri.nc. in quit. . 1«S. The writer h.. h.o "*•"» ,„t thitty .,..„. Dunn,

f d 10Pln »'» ° ^ ! " " ;"d . I technical .o".«.•"* P«Pl' <»'

practically .v.ry on. of ». -, t,chnici.n, f£om Spain, It.ly,

J.,», Hongton, and cuit, a f« other oountri«- • -- • •11. in P.K.t.n on. is i»m.di.t.ly .truck by th. .b..n=. Vi.iting -ill. m <••*-• « ltm. f,ci„, th. 1 Qf .x-p.tri.t. P«""• - '" of tI jned p.opl.. it ...n. th.t in indu.try .nd th. .cu o o, ^^ ^ ^^ th. th. short t.rm mor. t.cnnic.l .ssis country. A *•,.• fur'h.r con.id.r.tion oe çiven to h ! would cert.inly r.»•.nd .ho.'"- « m„nt t0 i ,ply th.t

precidine .or. U.,.I.B.C .•*«*-•• " ^ contt,ry th. Xoc.l P.CP1. •» -* -P- = /LÌ .Uitud.. in th. country »rit.r h.s b..n v/.ry i ipr..».d ». ch.n,.. in

1Bd th. „» prob!... .r. b.ino t.ckl.d Ho. *

„„Xd —t conditio -pound tH. f ^ . ehi.v.d in xnB Aw encounteredj and „^ tenaeo+«nriBd to neutral-»* H y many areas.

ll l fl 37) P1 rn-rti"" mn>T Tntrrtnt ir Trrîilf '" "' , a lot of , +h_+ the consumer nere in Pakistan Wmn It has =aen or^ved that the cons psrticular b .«„tlon to both colour -"•-;^i^ 1 , c,s.. out of 10 The,.,._ result i+ nfof «recenta recent surveys-.rve; sr.oweu f e o r ic . - 3ö -

th... f.ctor. war. con.id.r.d mor« important than prica.

In ord.r to d.v.lcp mora int.r.at among th. m.ny min, wno littl. att.ntion to th. development of new de.igne, it i. eugge.t.d th.t a da.ign compatition b. orgeni.ad annually by th. Centra on . "" ní^0n'1.ba*Í' With luit'bí* «*«<¡» for th. winner.. Th'i.Touid b. divided into various sections as follow«t" Saction 1. Apparai Fabrica - Woven Design«. a) Ledits wear. b) Man's auiting or slack». c) Man's sportswear. d) Shirting Fabrics. Saction 2. Houa.hold Fu.ml.hing« - Woven Oaaign«. a) Upholatery Fabrica. b) Curtain Fabrica. e) Sad linan. d) Towel a. Saction 3. Printed Febric«. a) Ladies drsss print. _b) Man's shirting printa. c) Children's wear printa. d) Printed Curteining. e) Printed Household linen.

Judgement of * i .ntrie. should be casad firstly on design and colour in relation to and u... Than. s,ch fa.ture, ., th. QUBlit„ cf th„ fabric and e.ee of m.nuf.cture should be taken into ccnaid«rat

be carried out by .committee nade up of some of th. Core's h.ads of dep.rtnent. end Lading member, of the All Pakistan T-xtile -lis

A.soci.tion. Firat. second and third «ward, should be r,ada in all aactiona. Two prize, should be ew.rded for each place fn8.cH

»ction. Th... could b. in the form of . t roPhy ,nd a certificat, of m.rxt to th. mill producing the winning design and a cash ,. ard and c.rtificat. for the designer.

R3) Amarant Shçwroo^ for •.»,„ Tories »nd Zaairn..

It is important that space 3e allocatod at the Cantre *o •cv/ror-!, This should feature a oerm.nen ci3c_a.y or new sar-nleg ç-.d t; latest trsrds in both faaric a-,c1 -r.r_ra-t styling. T'-srs s.-.O' ¿ 3ÌSJ - 39 - be fe = ii:.tiee to demonstrate snd pronote other important aspects of the Centre'e activities and research and development work seing unüerte^en in spinring, weaving, dyeing and finishing, and testing.

After the design competition mentioned in the previous recommenda- tion (37) has been judged an exhibition of the winning fabrics can ba held, in cooperation with the mills. This will attract mora and more visitors to the Centre and haip expansion.

R9) lYpjp^-nr- Crri^* in Pmrii.ct Devrlr^mnnt sinrl (-iTkitins* The recent S-dav seminar _in desinninn. f abric development and meriting should be repeated at frequent intervals throughout the year, lending on the number of companies showing interest. L-^'linss for the prospectus, ssoriginally set out, should be followed. The ==>urse can be = >:Panded t0 »certain extent, however the general theme should ba to introduce the delegates to product devflooment and create interest in new design, showing how ideas orVn.tt and develop and how . mill can sat up it. own programme of «emole oroduction. It would be a mistake to try and go too deeply intothe technology of textile design in the time available. That n . subject which usually involves two or three intensive study at e textile college or university. Furthermore, the experience and «bilges of those attendino should be born in mind as they may include people who are basically involved in the business administre- tion side of the industry.

etBg Rio) Thr ^n.|, nr mmnri"-filn »rr«"* •- - Al'houn!- this sector of the country's textile induit* ,*0 not very le-ce "un-'ta visited during ,he 'course of the ...ignm.nt were doing excellent business and demonstrated efficient t.chnic.l/fashion know-how in production end in relationship to the over.eas market. in which they were selling their products.

Tre^c is a wide scope for growth and expansion here in Pakistan. In tnenv of the developing countries this is already t* inn place. The Cen'tre ehould pay sp.ei.l attention to this e. involvement c an en-.re olanned expansion along the right lines, A l.roe and effilent -akinc-uo industry will contribute greatly to the country . - 40 -

textile exporta. It will also provide guidane« to the mills OR design trends. The mark-up between the furie price «-mill and the wholeaale price of a finished çanent is auch that the fashion designer must pay special attention to styling trends.

R1D Future Trends in the Export Merkel It has already been stressed that the world market wilj renain a buyer's narket end over-production has assured a continuation o-> -, situation in which weaving capacity world wide, together with accumulated stocks, will be more than adequate. In the -"ace of this intense competition, what will be the factors influencing buyars to place orders? Assured of an abundant supply of faoric at a'noderate price, we are laft with two important factors, design conoined with colour and quality. These must be oacked up oy customer sarvice and on-time delivery.

Rapidly changing lifestyles and technological advances in production techniques have all to be studied in relation to the changing fashion «cene. However, the decorative appearance of a fabric, whsther a •olid colour or a fancy pattern, will have the initio impact on a prospective buyer. So again we are back to the imoortancs of coed deaign. Cf course, a new ft novel faoric will immediataly cov.r.ard

attention and ensure immediate contracts, but to ensure re;:aat ordars quality assurance and on-tir e delivsrv are aosol^tel-/ =.--^---,1 Standards of quality and delivery deadlines are an essential concern of sales and marketing and the Centre should focus special attantion on this problem area.

R 12) Ths coovino of De«j f,n?. During visits to the mills throughout the country many conplainta were received from those who were doing their own fabric dévaluant work, that once they had produced a best-ssllsr and it was available in the market, it was quidkly copied by snelle: units wnc ware 3_1- to upcer- cut their prices. This situativ »specially apclisd to -rirtso d e o :'. g n s .

This -ractics is having a retro rade c,"f_ct zr *se i^d^str- i- ••-•=•*• - - beco-os very discouraging to fa cor.3c:.ontious desi^ar, T— ••--:

Control could be instituted through The All Pakistan Textile ['ills Association and the Centre, end it would benefit the industry tre- endously in helping to develop the individuel tal ante of each designer. We regret that some of the pages in the microfiche copy of this report may not be up to the proper legibility standards,even though the best possible copy was used for preparing the master fiche