CONTRIBUTIONS FROM THE M USEUM OF THE AM ERICAN I NDI AN HEYE FOU NDATION

Volume I V , Numb er 1

THE TECHNIQUE OF PORCUPINE QUILL DECORA TION AM ONG TH E NORTH AM ERICA N INDIANS

W IL L IA M C . ORCHA RD

NEW Y OR" TH E M USEUM OF TH E AM ERICAN I NDIAN H EY E FOU NDATION

1 0 EA ST THI RTY -TH I RD STRE ET

1 9 1 6

Q D H

n m m I VOL w om a. us. . I . . uo f i FL I c ND AN . . .

"NI H H M TH E I N TH E FE S EAT , FRO REG O OF GREAT LAKES

H UCEUH OF THE AMERICAN INDIAN TH E TECH NIQU E OF PORCU PI NE —QU ILL DECORA TION A M ONG TH E NORTH A M E R ICA N I ND IA NS

BY

W ILLIAM C . ORC HA R D

INTRODU CTI ON

E N we consider the har d ships connected wi th the pr imi

f th r m r an n d i s ti ar t at tive life o e No th A e ic I an , par cul ly h

r f h t i t a of the wande ing tr ibes o t e grea plains , t first seems hardly possible that the women shou ld have had either the incli nati on or the time to devote to elaborate embroider y ; never the less there is abundan t eviden ce of the fact that man y hours have been spent on a single object in the desire to give expressi on to t f - esthe ic concepts . Examples o bead and porcupin e qui ll work attesting to the artistic ability of the Indian s form a part of all ' - n well k own collections . - Porcu pine quill work is especially in ter esti ng by reason of the remarkably fine stitches that have been employed an d the ingenu ity displayed i n the manipulation of the quills to produce effective designs . In deed many specimens exhibit such ski ll as to be worthy of n m the fin e t e inclusio a ong ar s , where sewing and th selecti on of

m t n t e t colors are i por a d sidera a . The purpose of this paper is to describe th e technique an d to attempt to bri ng abou t an appreciation of the complexity of th e - ar t of porcupine quill work an d the tireless pati ence that must have ' n x d t fiec bee e ercise in produci n g such exquisi e e ts.

m ofthe t t m a Speci ens fines work were collec ed any years go , and i n m t ar e th t i w m t as to t r . os cases i ou infor a ion hei orig n However ,

m of t n t m n t co parison echnique and desig wi h oder work , al hough

st n t t the va ly inferior , has fur ished clues , so ha probable source of f production may be given or those earlier and finer specimens . MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CAN I N DI A N

The drawin gs and explanations of the folding ofthe qu ills and t s itches are chiefly the result of technical an alyses . Some of the m si ple foldings have been demonstrated by modern worke rs. Only the h r constr uctive branch of t e a t will be considered . m t m t Speci ens have been collec ed fro Alaska o Maine , including

the t t the t an as m t woodland ribes and hose of grea plains , d , igh be

t d t f m n e the expec e , hey show con or ity in desig p culiar to various

e tribes . The desire for design s of symbolic import stimulated th

t the t t t t m n m inven ive genius of ar is s , so ha a re arkable u ber of complex foldings of the porcupine-quills and sti tches have been devised . Than ks are due to the officials of the U nited States Nation al

m at t the m m t t Museu Washing on , A erican Museu of Na ural His ory ,

Y r t the m of New o k Ci y , and Field M useu Chicago , who kindly ' fi f a or d ed facilities or the examination of their collec tions . The exten sive collection s of the M useum ofthe Amer ican Indian (Heye

t n Y at o i n Founda io ) in New ork , generously placed my disp sal

n ti t t t n t n i n co nec on wi h his s udy , have bee of valuable assis a ce

ll he furnishing a b ut tw o of t techniques described .

EA RL Y U SE OF PORCU PI NE -QU I LL S

In the records of early explorers of North America occasional though somewhat indefin ite referen ces are made to the decorative

ar t of the aborigines . Among the materials used as a mean s of - n f m t n e . rm n decorati on , porcupi e quills are requently en io d Ha o ,

ournal o o a es and Tr avels i n the I n terlor o N or th A meri ca in hi s J fV y g f , “ wr ites : The women man ifest much ingen uity an d taste in the work which they execute with porcupine quills . The colour of

t f an the art these quills is various , beau i ul d durable , and of dyeing ” M an n s and s them is practised only by the females . In er Custom ’ ia Tr s t t m o everal I nd n lbe . m n fS , John D Hun er e ions en s headdresses

n t a t t t uills an d as being ea ly orn men ed wi h fea hers , porcupine q ,

r n of t t - t horsehai stai ed various colours heir wais clo hs , leg

m m tt the f t t the gin gs , an d occasins , o i ing ea hers , are decora ed in " t t t h same manner as their caps . O her writers migh be quo ed w o

m t n t t f m t in a similar manner en io his par icular or of decora ion ,

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E—QUI L L DECORA TI ON 3

- hen ce i t is reasonable to suppose that porcupine quill work is an ar t whose prac tice an tedates the adven t Of people from the Old

Wor ld and their influen ces on the arts Of the American aborigines .

DI STRI BU TI ON

The porcupine has a widely distributed habitat in the n orthern

R t the ma part of the North American con tinent . eference o p

- m t n (pl . 1 1 ) will show the boundar y line extending fro n or her Lab

the n rth t rador and across southern shores of Hudson bay , o wes erly

in to beyon d the Arctic circle in Alaska . The southern line clud es r w t th New B uns ick , Nova Sco ia , and M aine , ence follows

t in n i t t t r the a sou herly tren d to Pen nsylvania , whe ce urns owa d

r t n the t a n t west no h and i cludes Grea L kes region , pursues a or h erly

t r t m t t the t st course o Albe a , there akin g a sudden urn oward sou hea , following the Rocky moun tains and crossing the northwestern

n h of U t t corner of Colorado a d t e sou theastern part ah , hrough

z t the th t n n the n t t Ari ona o California line , ere ur i g to or heas ,

to t m clearing Nevada and passing through Idaho , Bri ish Colu bia

h e k . t t t t t t t and Alas a A narrow s rip Of erri ory ex ends oward sou h ,

the fthe t t of t including Cascade range , parts o s a es Washing on and

O . regon , and northern California A poin t ofinterest i n con n ection with the habitat Of the porcu pine is the fact that this animal is n ot foun d in the countr y in habited by those tribes which are today and have been in the past the - producers of a gr eat quan tity of porcupine quill embroidery .

ma at t t fr t This y indic e ha our Indian iends , like whi e people , de sired the things most difficul t to obtain for their personal adorn m h t. O t e t an d d en n o her hand , Labrador Alaska are include

t the r b t the t e t i t wi hin bounda y , u na iv s Of hose reg ons , excep ing the t n o t t the t s as can Tlingi , have t con ribu ed to collec ions o far be learn ed . BI RD -QU I L L W OR"

n E m m of r - The Alaska ski o , however , have ade use bi d quills , w t r tr d of the m t the hich , af e being s ippe ra i , are spli and pieces

h o Of woven i t designs for belts . Figure I is an enlarged drawin g such a piece Of work . I t will be seen that the split quills are woven MUS EUM OF TH E AMER I CA N I N DI A N

' an d n seri es of t n Over u der a warp s ra ds , an d edged with a str an d

the ace ofthe w h t n t t along j ork , whic is caugh by a o her s rand alon g the s n t u tw the back , pa si g hro gh be een qu ills at somewhat regular

n t r va the t n i i e ls and looping over s ra d n front . The drawing ln d i cates an t t n of al erna io colors , black an d white . To effect this t r of Of t here is a double laye quills , laid in series hrees or fou rs .

— - F I G . T. B r l r Al E i m E r i d qui l wo k of askan sk o . ( nla ged )

the u ft- n of the In pper le ha d corner figure are four white quills , while black quills come to the fron t ben eath them ; still farther

the t t so on to the . below whi e quills are brough forward , and end

t the u the ff t t the Al hough lines are irreg lar , e ec is sugges ive Of

- n n to t checker board pattern . The fi ished weavi g is sewed a s rip

f t he w t n the Of o lea her , t edges Of hich are ur ed up and Over ends the quills .

- to m t t it nt Bird quills have been used a s all ex en , e her independe

Of i n n n t w t - the t m r an , or co ec ion i h porcupine quills , by Nor h A e ic

n the te the art Indians . Before discussi g chnique of Of porcupine quill embroidery i t may be well to introduce at this time a d escr ip tion Of some Of the pieces of bird-quill work that have been ex

the f ami n ed i n con nection with preparation O this paper . S . . NO . 1 . CONTR . MU . AMER INDIAN VOL IV . . PL III

I - I I I B RD QU LL DECORAT ON . H DATSA

MUSEUM OF TH E AMERICAN INDIAN

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 5

A split bird -quill i s frequently fou nd where an edgi n g has been m t the xt em d Of at t t n ade , ei her on e r e e ge Of a piece le her ha has bee

r tt t t has n o t ou t decorated , o surrounding a pa ern ha been worked t I n s the - i e n o the edge . su ch ca es bird qu ll has b e used as a filler , t t the - n the - ha is , porcupine qu ills are wrapped arou d bird quill and

t n he t as u 8 . m t he sewed to t lea her , shown in fig re 4 In so e ins ances ,

t t n for the am however , a s rip Of lea her or a cord has bee used s e

a the - was too t ff to purpose , perhaps bec use bird quill s i produce

t t f t t t m t . he sof , grace ul curves ob ainable wi h o her a erials The best exaI n ples ofwork examin ed in which bird-quills have been used exclusively are to be found in the Museum ofthe Amer i f h an n . t O t e c India These consis five pieces , 3 % inches wide ,

t t . I I I n o t i n otal length being 9 fee 4 inches (pl ) , and doub were

n t t as te ded to be used in a single long s rip , in all probabili y a m m decoration for a ti pi cover . The ethod e ployed in fasten ing

two the quills is shown in figure 8 . There are Objectionable feat u he use of - m 1 the a res in t bird quills , na ely ( ) uneven , ragged p

ear an ce of the to tt to t t t p edges , due spli ing , which a grea ex en mars the neatness that is so characteristic of the work in which

Of he 2 t d o n ot m n quills t porcupine are used ; ( ) hey ake a clea , sharp

t t the ti t n the e fold where hey are urned under s ches , he ce edg s of the patterns are uneven and the whole presen ts the appear ance of

an t f an d t the ff ma inexper piece O work , o sti ness y be due the ah

n f t m se ce Of an y form o decoration o her than geo etrical . One or two in stan ces have been no ticed in which the two kin ds

u t n t n of m Of q ills are used al er a ely in working ba ds e broidery , an d there are some examples i n which grass has been employed in

he m t sa e manner .

M A TE RI AL S FOR PORCU PI NE -QU I LL W OR"

Du r ing the summer Of 1 9 1 1 the writer made a hurried trip

t the x rv t t t t hrough Siou rese a ions in Nor h Dako a and Sou h Dakota ,

t to the O v the and a visi jibwa li ing near shores Of Georgian bay ,

On t r for the t a io , purpose Of ga hering all available information

m t an d the m t of r m regarding a erials various e hods prepa ing the ,

as well as ofgaining an insight into the processes employed in the f - ar t O porcupine quill work . ' M L QPJJH 0’TH E A M E RI CA N I N D I A N

i w w s v leat he r Th e d esig n s er e or ked out m o t on soft tan n ed or

on b i r c b A n exce t ion howev er is a w ov en t echn i u e whi ch ar k. h p . . q — n n f r ee r S kin has n wi ll b e d escr i b ed . The tan i g o le ath er o d bee

d esc b ed b ot e r s ence the ec essit of her e d es cr ib i n that ri y h . h n y g

v pr ocess is ob v iated . The pr epar ati o n ofb ir chba r k con sists mer el h of s a i e r ha s s i tt i n an d a y in out t e att er n to b e h p ng , p p pl g , l g p

i n t he cu i n e fe ll to the lo t of the men an d so w r . t o o ked Hun g p r p .

far as cou d b e ear n ed t he so meti mes l cked t he ui ll s fr om l l . y p u q

v t w the li i n g an imal . On e met hod ofcap u re as to trace a por cu pi n e

u a t e e mea s o f the fr eshl n aw ed bar k th e bow an d ar r ow p r by n y g : .

w is or i n late a s a u n as then use to d lod e i t . A n o th er me thod r d y g . d g ' was to a u r ow that b o r e ew d en ce Of ein i hab i t ed w en find b r b g n . h w - l the por cu pi n e as d ug ou t . A soft tan n ed skin or a b an ket was '

o r v sc e . r us i n s of t l w used t p e en t e ap a io k d raps a so er e used .

C on sid er ab le att en ti on was gi ven to the sor ti ng of the qu ills

t e wer e ucked w ch O e r ti on was erf me w t as h y pl , hi p a p or d it ho u

v the ski n . Fou si zes of l s w er f un on the ani mal remo ing r qui l e o d .

and wer e gr ad ed accor dingly . The larg est an d coarses t came fr om

the tai w wer e use i n r oad masses of em ro d er wher e a l , hich d b b i y ,

r e su face was to b e en t cov er ed or for w a i on b la g r irely , r pp ngs clu - a e s e st e ms an d fri n es . The n ext z e came fr m h nd l , pip , g si o t he

l er s m th fin ck an d sti l sma e e k. Th e w b a . ll quill fro n c est ere taken

h b e an d wer e used for the most el at from t e lly , d ic e lin es so n oti ce

l n he ex u s te wor k to b e f un d i n ea s ab e i t q i i o rly pecimen s . The v ario us size s were kept in separate receptacles made from a bladder

of elk or a uffa o . ter the w all ked the an b l Af quills ere pluc , hai r

was s n ed rom the b od an d t he n ma was o e i i g f y a i l co k d en t re.

c b ei ng a highly e st eemed delica y .

DY E M A TE R I AL S A ND D YE I N G

Th e selection of materials used for coloring was gov em ed to a

reat exten t b the oca it the was to b e g y l l y in which work done , altho ugh so metime s lon g journeys were made to procur e choice

s n e en t for mate rials to se rv e a i gr d i s making dyes .

Si n ce the in trod ucti o n of aniline dyes very litt le use has bee n

the n at e od ts e t t mad e of iv pr uc , cons quen ly presen informa ti on ORCHA RD— TE CHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 7

e ti the m th m ti m an d r t resp c ng Old e ods is so e es vague , early w i ers ‘ refer b ut little to the subject . From M aximilian we learn that “ m the f t to ro the a t th a ong Black ee , p duce be u iful yellow colour , ey

m m - e m m the R c t h e ploy a le on colour d oss fro o ky Moun ains , whic grows in the fir trees. A certain root furnishes a beauti ful red

th xt t m n t t r m the dye , and ey e rac a y o her brigh colou s fro goods procured from the W hites . With them they dye the porcupine

the ui of the at th m q uills and q lls fe hers , wi which they e broider ” ’ t . m to the s m very nea ly The Cree wo en , according a e author , “ u nderstan d how to dye a beauti ful red with the roots Of Gali u m ” bor h i nc r u m eale an d t t e b f he . t to and , black wi h ark o t alder

8 r t of the n a t f e n n Harmon , w i ing India s living e s o th Ca adia “ R tt m tai rm ti TO u ockies , furnishes a li le ore de led info a on colo r t m t t h t black , hey ake use Of a chocola e coloured s one , whic hey burn ,

fin e an d ut t t the ofthe z -n ut and poun d , p in o a vessel , wi h bark ha el

t t t n t i t e tree . The vessel is hen filled wi h wa er , and i o th quills

, t the ss m the i are pu , and ve el is placed over a s all fire , where l quor

i m to mm f r two or t . in t is per itted si er , o hree hours The quills are f t t out u t on r to n t . hen aken , and p a boa d , dry , be ore a ge le fire ’ t e an d t r Oil t After hey have b en dried rubbed Over wi h bea s , hey fi f t f se . T become o a beau iful shining black , and are t or u O dye

or th m Of t t an d he m i h red yellow , ey ake use cer ain roo s , t oss wh c

c ofthe t . ut t t t they find , on a spe ies fir ree These are p , oge her wi h

e t t t m th quills , in o a vessel , filled wi h wa er , ade acid , by boiling ’ & i t or c . t . s th curran s gooseberries , , in The ves el is en covered t t the m to mm the for t igh , and liquid is ade si er over fire , hree or

t the t n out r e an d e four hours , af er which quills are ake and d i d , ar ”

fit f r t u . o use , and hese colo rs never fade A S a result Of many inquiries made of the Old people on the

r t t ta t t i t a Sioux rese va ions in Nor h Dako and Sou h Dako a , w s learned tha t native materials for dye-making were plen ti ful an d m varied i n the Old days . After nu erous and extended talks with

f the m m th e t m groups O Older e bers Of ribes , so e interesting notes

M x mi ia Pr n W Tr v s the I t r r N r t A m r c 1 8 2- a i l n . i ce of ied . a el in n e io of o h e i a . 3 3 4 . - T s cd . t . I I . TO I O C v 1 06 . hwaite , p . pp 3 4 , le eland , 9

l . . 1 . bid . p 3 ‘ T — A ur V es r v s . 8 A v r 1 8 2 0 . Jo nal of oyag and a el . pp 3 7 7 3 7 . ndo e , M US EUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N on the - t m t of tai an d m i n Old s yle e hod dyeing were Ob ned , in so e

n r sta ces the materials were produced fo identi fication . There is a

t t t om Ofthe t e possibili y , however , ha s e de ails Of th dyeing proc

r esses a e forever lost . The buffalo-berry and squaw-currant were used for producin g

b u t the m i m a red dye , for er was preferred because t is ore succulen t

n the s u - t S tha q aw curran , which has a large seed with a thin kin an d consequently requ ired a greater qu an ti ty to produce the de i f sired color . The operation O dyeing con sisted simply O boiling the fruit an d porcupine-quills together in water until the required m - color was Obtained . Someti es dock root was used in addition

he i to t t u t t t . frui , beca se produced a brigh er and s ronger color “ ” c t the t the m t n o Care was exer ised in collec ing roo , as o her , t “ " e t an t m t the ff tw the th fa her pl , us be used ; di erence be een two plan ts was recogni zed by the flowers .

r d for m Of Wild g apes were use aking black dye superior quality , while a good substitute was fou nd in hickory or walnuts when grapes

n ot t . t t t t were ob ainable The nu s , ga hered green ( ha is , before

h m t e t e hard shell had for ed ) , were laid in h sun and occasionally

k t t t t e an d t n sprin led with wa er un il hey urn d black , he were boiled t in water wi th the quills . The resul ant color was a brownish

an d t n ot S O t t r to the r m ti black , consequen ly was sa isfac o y disc i in a ng

artist as that produced by the grapes .

’ Wild sun flower an d cone flower (Rati lnd a columnar i s) were used

n . t t of for produci g yellow dye The pe als , wi h pieces decayed

- h Of tt t r e t a t the . oak bark o t roo s c ail , were boiled in wa er wi h quills “ ” The bark Of a certain pine tree found on ly i n the Black Hills m is said to have been another med iu for producing yellow dye .

m to u n at t m the Blue dye see s have been nk own , leas a ong h the . t t e t t of Dakota I n dians , in early days Af er in roduc ion

v m i t u se an d t the aniline colors , howe er , blue ca e n o , la er , when

t to the ti n f Govern ment issued blanke s reserva on India s , a piece o h t an Old blue blan ket was boiled with t e quills o produce that hue . Amon g the Ojibwa ofGeorgian bay i t was learned that tamarack

m d m an d th t bark produced a red dye Of e iu shade , a a darker color - was Obtained by using spruce cones . Another shade Of red was . . . 1 CONTR MUS AMER INDIAN VOL . IV . NO . , PL . IV

- ’ I I W I UC 0 . b W c M S OUX QU LL ORKER S TOOLS AND QU LL PO H ( . A LS ; . BON E ARKER) museum or m e AMERICAN mom

i “ . N . W

I - I I X PORCUP N E OU LL FLATT EN ER . S OU

museum or w e AM EFICAN mom

O N . . VOL . . 1 . C TR MUS AMER . INDIAN IV , NO , PL V

- I I X PORCUPIN E QU LL FLATTEN ER . S OU

museum or m e AM EFICAN moms

ORCHA R D— TE CHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 9

n m the Obtai ed from sumac berries . Y ellow dye was made fro r ot k w ut m h r t t n o s of blac illow , b a uc b igh er yellow was ob ai ed

m fox m E ver n i a vu l i na ca fro oss , p , which was rarely used be use

ffi n m di cult to procu re . The i n er bark of he lock produ ced a brown i sh- b ut n t was n ot d the red , appare ly considere a good color by Old

fl . r people . Blueberries a ord ed a color approaching purple La k w spur as spoken Of as havi ng been used to produce pale blue . These few notes on dye mater ials were collected from four very

Old u t i t n ot to ta t t an people , b was possible Obtain an y de ils o her h that the quills were boiled in concoction s made from the various m products en tioned .

IM PLE M E NTS U SED I N QU I L L -W OR"

’

Th m rt t t . I v n con e odern a is s outfi (pl ) is ot very extensive ,

t m of u for the u o m for sis ing erely a po ch holding q ills , a b ne arker t the the at or m racing design on le her birchbark , so e awls , a bunch f m m O t n and . f ma sinew s ra ds , a knife So e ti es a pair o scissors y be

m t b u t mm i or t m found in a odern ou fit , rarely a co erc al need le a hi I - ble . t is safe to say tha t nearly all the modern Quill workers still use an awl and sinew withou t a needle to perform their work . There i s n o reason to believe that the quill-workers of earlier

t m t i n the too u days possessed any hing ore elabora e way Of ls , nless an x t ma m fthe -fl en er f t e cep ion y be ade o quill att , o which here are

in x t i vi s a few e is ence , decorated w th elaborate car ngs a illu strated I t v . t i s n ot ta t t u an m m t was in pla e cer in , however , ha s ch i ple en u mm to tt the as i t m an d sed co only fla en quills , is so uch easier more practical to meet that need Of the process by simply holding on e Ofthe t the t e -n end quill be ween eeth and drawing th thumb ail , t tl n t the — the m t igh y pressed , le g hwise of quill ethod used by presen - m h - - . t t e S O a flatten rs day quill workers Aside fro his , c lled quill e are large and somewhat cumbersome (the specimen illustrated is

I lon t t Of 4 inches g) , hence heir use would resul in a loss energy , if n ot t m it t i s Of i e , when is considered tha each quill flattened im m d t i t a i t s t e ia ely before is used , bec use would be nece sary o take ’ u an d the t m t m tim u p lay down ins ru en any es d ring a day s work .

om -fla en er s m f f tt t n . S e quill are ade O bone , o hers O a tler A few M USEUM OF TH E A MERI CA N I NDI A N

t ts ma n i n W t t o her Objec y be fou d a workbag , such as a he s one ,

a s m tt n an m t t t t m n ot n ~ perh p so e pa er s , d any rinke s ha ay be eces i sary to the work n hand .

f n w e A thread O si ew as u sed for sewing the quills to th leather . The fiber Of which this thread was made was str ipped from the ff large tendon s along each side Of the backbone Of the bu alo or deer .

raw t n n w r an d an d m t m tw t The e do s ere d ied d shre ded , so e i es is ed

n t f t i as an r or u se . t t t w i o h ks eady A sui able s rand bein g selec ed , m t n on e t tw he m an ois e ed , end poin ed by isti n g between t thu b d

n n t . o t t u forefi ger , a d hen allowed to dry A p int SO rea ed wo ld - easily follow an awl hole i n the leather . The other part of the th read was kept soft an d moist by occasionally applying saliva - with the finger tips . This item of in formation was furni shed by an Old woman at h m m f n Ri t a t . t t e a t O Pi e dge , Sou h D ko a Doub less s e e hod pre paring an d using sinew thread was employed b y . the early quill wor kers.

m i n H i stor o A meri can I ndia ns a : Ja es Adair , his y f , s ys The n e d t r t s fishb on es the an edles an h ead hey u ed were , or horns d

n e an d S s an d t of m bo es of d er rubbed sharp , deer inew , a sor he p "

r m n m S t eo in r lan d s. that g ows a o g the pon an usly ich , open

s n s i out t the Of cut tt r s m t m De ig were la d wi h aid pa e ns , o e i es - f r or n . made O rawhide or birchba k , were drawn freeha d The m r e a t n fl t Of t ree or one a k r , hi , a piece bone , h four inches long by

n e t sm t un d s as en i to i ch wid , wi h oo h , ro de edges , was u ed a p c l

h cut r n w t t i was follow t e patte , or , i hou such gu de , dipped in a

- i the m re ma s m u the dark co lored flu d . or arks we de by i ply r bbing

h w n h o n on t e t t m r ot s r s d . cd gc of t e b e lea her , hich lef a a k ea ily e a e I n this part Ofthe work the women oftenti mes were ai ded by sug ge stion s from the men . M ateri al for making a dark-co lored fluid was collect ed on

P n R e e rv ati on t ak ta an d ar t of the i e idg r se , Sou h D o , is p a very ol ai ti tfit w c n t Ofb ma ec s w d d p n ng ou hich o sis s one rker , pi e of e ge

e i th d a the o an d v a i r th shaped b o n p use for pplying c lor , r ous ea

o o s i n c u d a fin e s o t ow e escr i ed as b ei n c l r , l ing . f . black p d r . d b g “ " - o m l n w ff h mud fro m a Hu mb tto a o g ay o to t e no r thwest . A c ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON I I

t m n rm an t m t mud was b cording o y i fo , any years ago his black O tai n t n w t the n m the n rt t an d w ed by radi g i h I dians fro o hwes , as in great deman d for marki ng out pattern s an d for picture-writin g h on ski n s . A solution was made by mi xin g t e dried mud with

t as . water . Sometimes a small quan ti y of blood was added a binder

STI TCH E S

Several ki n ds Of stitches are used i n fastenin g the quills

h n n r n am to t e leather , which for co ve ience in desc iption I have ed as follows : - — - Spot sti tch The first an d most simple is spot stitch (fig . In the drawin g i t will be seen that the sinew thread passes straight

i s tt t the f the t at u r ahead , and spo ed hrough sur ace of lea her reg la

— - F I G . 2 S t st t . . po i ch

t the in ervals , exposed part of the sinew formin g a loop which holds

. he I n t quill . t ca easily be seen that such a stitch can follow a

r cu ved line .

Back-sti tch— S n - The econd I have desig ated back s titch (fig . I n t i n m t to t the t t t his case , sewing fro lef righ , awl is hrus hrough the surface Of the leather with the point inclin ed toward the left h an d t n . n he wn ti t t e poin i g upward Whe t sinew is dra gh , fibers

Of the t o t th so t t e lea her are caused t wist and grip e sinew , ha th

t t w s n stitch can not slip . The stability of his s itch a appare tly

z the n t t as i t n m t the fully reali ed by India ar is , is fou d in os Of

m and to m t t n t speci ens of early work , is used so e ex en by rece workers . - — - L oop sti tch The third may be called a loop stitch (fig . An incision is made through the surface of the leather by pointin g the h h m awl upward . The sinew i s passed through t e Opening in t e sa e

t as the m to t t m to t e direc ion awl was ade ake , hen ade cross i s lf MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N an d s he x n h t f pa sed on to t ne t incisio , when t e opera ion O passing

he t s I t a u through t lea her an d crossing i repeated . m y be nder stood from the drawing that a stitch S O formed with a moistened

— - F I G . . B 3 ack stitch .

t n e t t n t b ut sinew hread , whe pull d igh , can o possibly slip , makes a

firm and lasting sti tch . A remarkable feature in porcupin e-quill work i s that even in the very Oldest specimen s examined th e stitches had rarely pulled

ut t the ma o , al hough quills y have been worn away and perhaps

— — F I G . L st t . . 4 oop i ch

the ff the t f he exposed sinew had worn O , b ut ends s ill held ast in t

leather .

Of n t i n n n n the n A point i erest co ectio with sewi g , which will be

t m z at t t m the f t t t the t well o e phasi e his i e , is ac ha sti ches were

t the t f m to t b ut n ever carried hrough lea her ro back fron , were ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON I 3

t n he f n t i w caugh Only u der t sur ace , eve when very hin deersk n as l m h . e t o d on t e used The r ason given for his , by an wo an Crow

r t at the t m fm n m r Creek eserva ion , who i e O y i quiry was e broide ing “ t t it to to the a large pouch , was , ha is hard guess where push awl through from the under Side without turning the piece Of leather ” n t t t for the t over . There is o doub that he posi ion sti ch can be m n m the e ore readily fou d by working fro upper side , esp cially where a lar ge su rface i s bein g decorated . Also a much finer stitch can be made when the thread is passed through the surface only Sometimes a knotted end Of the sinew may be found on the reverse side . SPLI CI NG

O t the S tn of n - i t m win g o hor ess porcupi e quills , beca e necessary

t t m Of n t n t to formula e a sys e splicing , or i ser i g addi ional quills , in h m such manner that t e en ds Should be secure and concealed . A co

n m t m i am - mo e hod see s to have preva led ong all quill worker s . To facilitate the explan ation of the n umerous techniques employed

he ar t - k the S n at t m in t Of quill wor , plici gs will be described his ti e ; an d un less o therwise stated i t may be understood that these meth

he k Od s have been made u se Of in t wor hereafter to be treated .

— F G A m t s . I . 5 e hod of plicing

S m t ff t t t A very i ple hough e ec ive splice , illus ra ed in figure 5 ,

is mad e use Of in a majority of the techniques . As the drawing

S the a m hows , when end of a quill has been re ched in e broidering , a n ew quill i s added an d secured by laying i ts point inside the fold

f the t t t m the O las quill , where a s i ch is ade across overlapping

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 1 5

ban ds of embroidery var y in wi d th from on e-eigh th to fiv e-eighths

i t to t - of an inch , or in rare ns ances hree quar ters of an inch , and ar e h worked side by side until t e desired area is covered . Should the space to be decorated be other than square or rec

tan u lar t n the t e of a the in of t g , as for ins a ce o a mocc sin , l es s itches

— G . t r . F I 8 . Me hod of fastening quills to leathe

f th e to m to th e and olds of quills converge , so as confor shape of

h f t m a he . e o t r t area By t use con ras ing colors , geo et ic l designs ff h have been worked out . I n some instances the e ect as been - elabo rated by a wideni ng or contraction ofthe rows of quill work . An interesting addition to this method has been n oted on some recen t Hidatsa work (fig . in which sti tches have been made along f h - the center o t e rows or ban ds of quill work over the surface . As

— - F 1 . H ts r i t st t s a n t r . 0 . 9 ida a quill wo k w h i che lo g cen e

n ot to m for t t i t the bands are so wide as de and such sewing s reng h ,

t t w s he is probable that addi ional ornamenta ion a t object in view . h - The extra stitch is t e back stitch .

to t m m - According observa ions ade among odern quill workers , i t was found that such bands of quills were worked from left to MUS EUM OF TH E AMER I CA N I N DI A N

he n n h right . The lines of t ba ds having been drawn o t e article to

w t a m t at the ti t t be decorated , a sine hre d is ade fas respec ve s ar ing poin ts of both rows of stitches ; a quill i s then laid in the first position at the to he t t m t t e d the p of t band , a s i ch is ade over ha n , and quill

t the t t t m at the is urned over s i ch , when ano her fold is ade proper m h distance to confor to t e width of the ban d . The sin ew thread at the lower line is now passed through the fold an d caught into the

u r the th to the i i s o s face of lea er as close quill as t p ssible to g et i t. I t will be seen from the drawing (fig . 8) that in th e last men ti on ed f at the tt m the the olding , bo o of band , quill is folded under

t an th h i self , d en passes on diagon ally across t e ban d to the next

o t at the to n t n d t t p si ion p , where a o her fold a a s i ch are made . The distan ce between the folds has been exaggerated in the drawing

i n to the m m t the order show ove en of quill , which if drawn correctly would be obscu re . There are a number of instan ces in which a strip of rawhide has u as t t he been sed a filler , ha is , t quills have been wrapped

u the t an d th e ti t m aro nd s rip , s ches ade in the usual place where the the u n m as i folds in q ills have bee ade , shown n figure 1 0 . This method seems to have been used to some exten t by the Haida an d

— - I I o . Str r s as fill r for l r . F G . ip of awhide u ed a e qui l wo k

A m of he m h m . t t as Tsi shian speci en sa e echnique , however , appeared on an ar m-ban d in a very old war-bundle collected from

h an t t t v 1 . t e Sauk d Fox Indians , illus ra ed in pla e

f v the t n h In consequ ence o ha ing s rip of rawhide u der t e quills,

h n o th t m t n t e work does t have a close , co pac appeara ce so n oticeable

n ar - t when the strip has ot been used . The m band has been fur her

m t t t to com orna en ted wi h an elabora e fringe fas ened one end , . . AM ER. . IV NO 1 CONTR MUS INDIAN VOL , . , PL . VII

- - I T . W FRING E M ox KN FE SH EA H DELA ARE OF AR BAND . SAUK AND F museum or m e AMERICAN moms

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON I 7 posed ofeleven strips of rawhide wrapped with porcupine-quills in

th m r e an ner described for figu re 6 . The f inge was origin ally

t t t m . n decora ed wi h hree , perhaps four , hu an figures The desig is produced by the introduction ofvarious colored quills at measured - t . t t an d f in ervals The figures are abou hree one hal inches long , and in the center ofeach body a short wrapping of bird-quill has been applied .

t VI I 6 t f h n Pla e , , illus rates a section o t e fringe showi g two figu res ;

h ofthe t b he t h t ere are indications hird , u t t condi ion of t e specimen

h n is such that t e presence of a fourth figure is ot at all certain . The specimen is a well -executed piece of th e decorated fringe technique .

t the t- t t i s so i t n Al hough spo s i ch simple , does ot appear to have

e so mm the or o t an d been us d co only as back l op sti ches , in all probability the better holdin g quality ofthe two las t named sti tches A m f h m - w as fully appreciated . ajority o t e speci ens of quill work m m exa ined , in which bands of e broidery have been used , show the use of the back-stitch or loop-stitch ; and some times both

t on e t t the to sti ches have been used on band , ha is , p edge is held by h - the loop stitch while t e lower is held by the back stitch . The modern quill-workers have introduced another thread i n

nn t w th t n m r co ec ion i hese ba ds of e broide y , one which I have been

— - F o n . l r s t l t r . r . Qui l wo k howing an addi iona h ead

unable to find in an y of the old specimens . In figure I "the added m - t a a . t t t i t hre d is arked The loop s i ch is always used wi h , an d the addition al thread is employed only along the top edge of the

I n n t n t t f o band . con ec io wi h his , a act t be noted is that I have

. S . . . IV . 1 . IX CONTR MU AMER INDIAN VOL , NO , PL

I ROQUO IS M OCCAS IN S IOUX M OCCAS I N museum or r u e AMERICAN moms

OR CHA RD — TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 1 9

i n An interesting variation of this process is illus trated figu re I 3 .

A s the two the drawing shows , quills have been used , diagonal crossings extended and the quills overlapping those crossings al ter th m mately . The folding is practically e sa e as that shown in

1 2 b ut the of the figure , overlapping added quill has produced a

— G I a A m h e i ll . . e t t u s F I . hod of folding q

ff surface pattern ofen tirely different appearance . A striking e ect

is produced by the use o fquills of contrasting colors .

m t t 8 1 2 1 The ethods offolding illus ra ed by figures , , and 3 , are — those used in single band decoration or i n covering broad surfaces . Design s are introduced by the use ofvariously colored quills or by

— I A m t o th e s. F I G . 3 . e h d of folding quill

n changing the position and the widths of the rows . The desig s

t of m t t d produced by this echnique are a geo e rical na ure , a goo

example ofwhich is show n in plate I x .

m of n f 1 A n intricate ethod crossi g and olding is shown in figure 4 , m m the details of which ay be clearly traced . The speci ens on MUS EUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N w t t t oftwo - i n an hich his echnique occurs consis snake skins , found - . c t b u t Iowa war bundle They are de ora ed on one side only , and f f a short length o th e su rface is covered . Three rows o the quill R work were laid side by side (the drawing shows only two) . ed

d f t the and yellow quills were use , and so olded hat yellow quills

r m m - e tt the m th fo a dia ond shap d pa ern across whole e broidery , e red quills producing a smaller diamond enclosed in the yellow h m tt . t e t pa ern The drawing shows quills spread apar abnor ally , b u t t t -d efin ed tt the when drawn close oge her a solid , well pa ern is - t th result . Spot sti tches are looped hrough e turn of the quills

F I — A m I G . . n tr t t r ss 4 in ica e e hod of c o ing and folding .

at the the an d l m the each fold along edges of row , sp ices are ade in t - usual manner . A sec ion of a decorated snake skin is shown in

h m he . plate x . The design suggests t e natural arkings of t skin O ther methods of covering large surfaces are shown in figures

1 1 t o t m to the 1 5 and 7 . In figure 5 is in r duced a echnique si ilar

t t two m t checker weave of baske ry , consis ing of ele en s crossing m at t . each other righ angles , one over and one under This for of decoration is found usually where rectangu lar or square areas are

m t ofthe t t covered . The arrange en quills in his echnique precludes O . . . . . 1 . X C NTR MUS AMER INDIAN VOL IV . NO , PL

SECTION OF A QU ILL-DECO RATED SNAKE-SK IN FRO M AN IOWA W A R-BUNDLE museum OF m s AMERI CAN moum

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 2 1 the s t out to t t er m pos ibili y of working designs any ex en ; howev , so e

tt m m of ff t a e pt has been ade by using quills di eren colors . The quills are held in place by spot-stitches around the edges of the

t the the t e decora ed area , where ends of quills are urn d under , m t m th indicated by dotted lines in the drawing . So e i es e wid th of

— - F I G . I Th r v m h r . s. e checke wea e et od of cov e ing lar ge surfaces the area has proved to be greater than the length ofa quill ; in such cases the ends and points of added quills are concealed under

m X I crossing elements . An exa ple of this work is shown in plate . The specimen illustrated is a sec tion of a decorated leggin g of f Black oot origin .

F i 1 6 — A m - . . t r r h e r v e g no he fo of t checke wea .

A wrapping of the same technique is found on strips of rawhide - t about one quar er of an inch in wid th (fig . In this case no

. M 08 . 1 . CONTR AMER . INDIAN VOL . IV . NO . . PL XI

SECTION OF BLACKFOOT LEGGING

museum or m e amemcm monm

1 XII CONTR . MUS . AMER . INDIAN VOL . IV , NO . . PL .

DECORAT ION ON A CH EY ENN E SI-I IRT

museum or m e amemcm momu

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 23

technique is produced by the working of narrow ban ds (fig . 1 8) xam of ma t x1 side by side , an e ple which y be seen on pla e , above and below the checker weave on the sec tion of Blackfoot legging . The drawing shows the use of tw o quills which are made to cross

— 1 8 . T ni r r r r s. F I G . ech que p oduced by wo king na ow band

m m n tt the each other diagonally , for ing a single dia o d pa ern in h e . 1 t e t t cen ter of th band Figure 9 shows , by addi ion of a hird - ff t . t t d quill , how a double diamond e ec is produced This is illus ra e

the t tt t x1 1 . in long , poin ed pa ern on pla e

— - . 1 . F I G 9 D ouble diamond effect p r oduced by the addition ofa thir d qu ill .

An entirely different effect is produced in the appearance of a

. 1 8 f t narrow band (fig ) by introducing quills o con rasting colors . m 20 w t t For exa ple , in figure black and hi e quills are shown , wi h

x t the m 1 8 t e ac ly sa e folding as used in figure , resul ing in black and w hite lines running diagonally across the band . This variation MUS EU M OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N occurs frequen tly and unless closely exami n ed has the appear an ce ofb ei n ff n g a di erent tech ique . Exaxn ples ofi t ar e shown in plate

X VI I I .

— ‘ F I G . se . E flect rod d b s n k n d i ill p uce y u i g blac a wh te qu s.

Figu re 2 1 illustrates an unusual method employed for br in ging together two quills of contrasting colors ; in fact i t is the only speci men I have found in which two quills have been used one on top of the other . A white quill is backed with a black one ; then the two are wor ked alon g together and folded in such manner that first

s r i s t th f a white u face exposed , hen , crossed by ano er old , a black

c the surfa e i s presented , whole producing a sawtooth patter n .

— m s r st . 2 1 . U se s r se t c rs F I G . of upe i po d quill of con a ing olo

This interesting technique occurs on a knife-sheath collec ted many

years ago from the Delaware Indians ; i t was recently found in

n h s to the t ofthe m Europe , a d a since been added collec ions Museu

t m of t of the American I n dian . The shea h is ade black anned

n f e a t t t th dee rski n , a d is pro us ly l hough ra her crudely decora ed wi - m t V I I a. porcupi n e quills . The speci en is shown on pla e , The

e e to ma at the to the t tech n iqu referr d y be seen p , on broad par ,

b ehi n d the kn ife handl e . Figure 22 exhibi ts a method employed by the Tlingit to cover l b mnd surfaces with po r cupin e q ui ls. The quills are laid length ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 2 5

- h w the t to t d . ot t t ise , and side by side on objec be decora e Sp s i c es

e he t are concealed beneath th ends of t quills , which are urned

A u the rf of under . t reg lar intervals a stitch is made across su ace h the quills . The first is caught into the leather under t e quill on the t d of the t t the ou side e ge band of decora ion , hen passed over

x t he t t t ne t quill and in o the leather beneath t hird quill , al erna ing

the t w f t t across en ire id th o the band . The second row of s i ches

mm the is co enced by crossing the su rface of the first quill , under

— T t m t v r F I G 2 2 . A r s r . . lingi e hod of co e ing b oad u faces

the t . second , over hird , and so on The splicing of additional quills is accomplished by turning the end of the nearly used quill under

the t - t t the neares cross s i ch , and laying end of the new quill under

that stitch . A head-band and several similar specimens are in the collections

f he m . o t . 22 t Field M useu , Chicago The drawing (fig ) represen s th e work somewhat spread apart. A pleasing effect is produced t t by his echnique , especially when quills of contrasting colors

have been used .

. S . 1 CONTR MU . AMER . INDIAN VOL . IV . NO . PL . XIII

KN IFE-SH EATH FRO M SOUTH ERN ALA SKA

u m e m umr eo su r es m n o m. us u

. N . . 1 . CONTR MUS . AME . INDIAN VOL IV . NO . PL XIV

SIOUX ORNA M ENT HOPI ANKLET

museum or m e ameelcm moms

OR CHA RD — TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 2 7

t tt and wrapped wi h fla ened quills , which are held in posi tion by a t t t t t the wis ed sinew hread passing al erna ely over and under quills ,

tw n the t . be ee rawhide s rips The quills , having been softened by m t t t the ois ure , are easily crowded oge her by drawing thread tigh t , t m m t t h hus for ing a co pac wrapping , en irely concealing t e rawhide

V t m n - t . s rips arious wid hs are found , ranging fro about o e quarter fi - to v e eighths of an inch . Such strips are laid side by side and

- - F I G . 2 . i Il r i v 4 Qu wor k on r awhide st ps for co e r ing br oad sur faces. sewed to the article to be decorated by passing stitches through the

th n h h loops of e quills o t e under side of t e strips . The n umber of strips used and also the length are governed by the size ofthe area to be decorated . This technique has been made use of by the

t r n om t b ut ot to t t t . Tlingi and by s e neighboring ibes , a grea ex en Some at tempt has been made to in tr od u ce designs by changing f the color o the quills at measured intervals .

t r t m oft i t Wi h va ia ion , speci ens h s echnique have been collec ted f m m of th e the ff ro so e Pueblo Indians , di erence being in the use of

t i t of o the o he two hreads ns ead one t bind quills t t rawhide stri ps . Figure 25 shows the two threads with a twist between each loop of the quills ; in o ther respects the work is carried out jus t as i t is by

f I h o the t t t . t X V b t t e Indian s nor hwes coas Pla e , , illus ra ting an

m the of z a w he m t of ankle t ade by Hopi Ari on , sho s t e hod working

ff the f ou t design s . The di erence in work o such widely separa ted

r peoples can be detected only after ve y close examination . The usual method ofsplicin g and ofsupplying additional quills has been observed in this technique . Plate xv illustrates a highly ornamented circular form of decora MUS EUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N

f - ff - m t . o o ion Such discs quill work are found on bu al robes , edi - etc . and v t r m n t h cine bags , , ha e occurred as ipi o na e s , in whic

tt ase t m t n ot e t la er c hey have been ade de achable , sewed dir c ly m - m to the aterial of which the tipi cover was made . The speci en illustrated was to all appearances originally made for a tipi oma m - I en t and was subsequen tly used to decorate a medicine bag . t may be seen that the quill -work is sewed to an independent piece of

n - l e th t the m . P at deerski , and en sewed o bag over so e bead work xx f shows this orm of decora tion sewed to a quiver . The technique ma d b u t th e n ot d t t e y be called a wrappe coil , coils are sewe oge h r

t e f as h t . t th in case of coiled baske ry The filler , or ounda ion , of e m d - m b t coil is co pose of horse hair in odern work , u in one or two

— h w r f h l . F I G . 2 5 . T e u se of t o th ead s or binding t e quil s very old specimens examined the filling has the appearance of ff - t the m t . human hair , and in o hers long hair fro a bu alo ail A hank of hair ofsuffi cient size to form a coil of the required diameter is wrapped with mois tened and flattened quills as shown in figure

t t t of the t t 2 6 , an d hrough al erna e loops quills , s i ches are carried

m he n f he into the leather for ing t base or grou dwork o t decoration .

v t t t the I t is very e iden ha wrapping , coiling , and sewing were

t th n t manipulated oge er , especially where a desig has been in ro h h m f t t e m t t e tt t . d u ced , o herwise align en of pa ern would be i per ec A buffalo-robe ofBlackfoot origin in the Museum ofthe Ameri t t f t t can Indian has been decora ed wi h our discs of his echnique , . . EN. IV 1 CONTR MUS AM INDIAN VOL . . NO . . PL . XV

DECORATION ON AN OTO M EDICI NE-BAG museum or m e AMERICAN INDIAN

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 29

in t n to o and addi io various colored quills t produce a design , wrappi ngs of black horse-hair an d a fine cord made from vegetal

— - F I 26 . ll r coi l i r . G . Qui wo k on a of ha

m o t of t fiber have been e ployed , probably t give a ouch varie y m to the ornamentati on . An other for of wrapped filler decor ation is shown in figure

2 th e ofthe m n t 7 , general appearance orna e a tion of which would suggest the same tech i 2 . s nique as described for figu re 6 There ,

f i n the m however , a wide dif erence anipula f tion of the materials used . I n stead o one

b an k two m . of hair , are e ployed The quills

the are wrapped around both hanks , and , as

t m the wrapping proceeds , sti ches are ade over

he the t quills , between t rows and into objec

t wn so being decorated . The sti ches are dra tightly that they are entirely concealed . This technique has been used in the for m ofbroad

n t ten v m ba ds , eigh or or e en ore being laid

v u lengthwise side by side , ser ing as sho lder straps reaching to the waist-line on a deerskin

the of . shirt, also as bands on sides leggings So far this technique has n ot been found i n

I an y form other than strai gh t lI n es. Spec F l a n r A m thefi om of m t t v t fill r ens of his echnique ha e been collec ed wr apped e d ecorati on .

f m h u z " an d . ro t e Sio x , Ne Perc s, Mandan - t m - - Pipe s e s , club handles , and occasionally horn spoon handles 3 0 MUS EUM OF TH E AMER I CA N I N DI A N have received their share of attention so far as ornamentation i s

r m m e t t r o . concerned . V a ious ethods have been e ploy d for ha pu p se The most simple manner of fastening porcupin e-quills to a rounded

- t as t m n t t to t . G . s ick , such a pipe s e , was rece ly brough ligh by Dr F Speck while conducting ethnological investigations among the

n m of t t t Penobscot Indians of Mai e . An old wo an ha ribe was m m - t t th t in duced to ake a speci en of quill work , o her han a on

- m m m n m d . birch bark, which she re e bere fro childhood The speci e

e t ai d the t the produc d , withou any in way of sugges ion , was pipe

l X I d h tem m n ate V . t e ste shown o p , The back or under side of s

th t t the n t n t of is seen in e illus ra ion ; fro , of course , prese s a series

— - 2 e s n s to e ste m. F I G . 8 . M thod of fa te ing quill a pip

-the unbroken wrappings . The quills are wrapped around pipe stem once ; the ends are turned under where they meet at the back

of the stem and are held by a cord passing through each of those

- the t et e . unde r turned ends , and cord is ied b w en each wrapping Figure 2 8 illustra tes the method offastening the quills to the pipe

m - t m t m n e t ste . Pipe s e s wi h si ilar wrappings have bee coll c ed

m tr b u the among the Plains Indians and also fro Woodland ibes , t m t ff handling of the fastening cord in os cases has been di erent .

m e m f Figure 2 9 shows a rather co plicat d ethod o tying . The . . . VOL . . 1 . CONTR MUS AMER INDIAN IV . NO , PL XVI

PI PE-STE M S

S i x d P n t c Of i i a. Sio ux ; b . R an g ; c. o u ; , e ob sco ; . un kn ow n o r g n

museum or m e AMERICAN INDIAN

ORCHARD — TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 3 1

I n n drawin g perhaps will suffi ce without fur ther description . co n ecti on wi th this method a chan nel was cut lengthwise of the stem

h n was v n to t e t n . i n to whi ch the cord sunk , gi i g work a very ea fi ish

X I 6 t at n t r d -t m an d Plate V , , illus r es a o he wrappe pipe s e , figure 3 0 shows the man ner

of tying . In this case the en ds ofthe q uills

n ot t u n are rned u der , b ut are laid over a large cord runnin g lengthwise o f t h e stem ; a fi n er cord is doubled and looped under the large cord ; a fine thread i s passed under the larger on e an d is made to cross over the ends of the qui lls on each side of B the large cord . e tween the wrappi ngs the fin e thread crosses itself un der th e lar ge cord before passing over the n ext wrap

t the ping . Af er last

st the quill is fa ened ,

- - i l t a s m. quills to a pi pe stem. qu l s o pipe te cord ar e ti ed an d the

u out of t n h knot crowded under the last q ill , sigh . The e ds of t e

n t quills are cut off close to the bi ding s ring .

I n n n m w 1 n co ection with this for of rapping , figure 3 i dicates

still another method of securing the quills . This decoration was found on the legs of an otter-skin which had been made into a

- he w n A t th n med ici n e bag collected among t Io a I dians . e begi ning an d finish of the work the cord was kn o tted and the kn ots con 32 M USEUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N

m l r rat n w t th e sam t n sealed under the quills . A si i a deco io , i h e fas e “ " n n a t n n a n ing , is fou d o a cord called slave ier , of Wi eb go origi , made of twisted buffalo hair covered with soft tanned deerskin an d wrapped with porcupine

quills . A very elab orate an d

m he m t co plex , and t os common of all forms of decora tion s for pipe

t m i n t s e s , is shown pla e f X V I a b 0. t , , , Beau i ul effects are produced in

t n this echnique , a d our illustration does n ot do justice to this particular branch ofthe art ofpor — I . rin h . F I G . 3 Method of sec u g t e quills - Th cupine quill work . e

i n t ma t an m wrapping his case y properly be called a plai ed b d , co posed oftwo stri ngs made oftwisted sin ew over which porcupin e

i h m 2 quills are braided n t e ann er shown in figure 3 . The drawing

t the ne ui ll t n represen s use of o q in his brai d , while refere ce to

— l ll s . F I G . 2 . A a t r i 3 p i ed band of w apping . one qui be ng u ed

h e f t r figu re 3 3 will show t e us o two quills . Bo h techn iques a e

- b ut th t t n e e t m etc. o h found on pipe s e s , , a wi h quill is by far t commoner . From personal observation i t has been found that the method - emmoyed by mod ern quill workers (an d there is no reason to sup pose the earlier artists made use of any other) is to prepar e two ORCHA RD — TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 33

long sin ew threads without kn ots, which is done by twisting str an ds

n r of si ew together just as ordin ary string o twine is made . These

t i m of uffi n t to m e s r ngs ust be s cie length co plete th decoration .

"n t an n v n f a mar h f h o s or u e e sur ace are p t to t e neatness o t e work .

- t on the t The quill worker , sea ed ground , with legs ex ended ,

m s two t tu th e t he - t m ake or hree rns of hreads aroun d t pipe s e , or

the t n he r first ur is overlapped by t succeeding ones for secu ity . The threads n ot i n immed iate use are wrapped ar oun d a small ' t t t the h mo s ick , which is hrust in o opening of t e worker s ccasin or

t n t the t f n t for he is s uck i o ground direc ly in ro of her , t purpose

n h t h n of keepi g t e strings ight as t e work progresses . The wi th

— F I G . . A lai t a r i t wo ills. 3 3 p ed b nd of w app ng . wi h t qu

the - t m t at t t the t pipe s e , or o her object, held a righ angle o direc ion i n the t ar e t t the ui lls n which s rings s re ched , q are worked over a d

the t h n ffi t under s rings as t e drawing indicates. Whe a su cien

t t it d n the t at the leng h has been plai ed , is wrappe arou d objec , h T same time covering t e first wrappings of th e sinew thread . wo or three turns of the threads on the small stick are taken offand h t e t n d . tt to t d plai i g procee s When a pa ern is be in ro uced , quills of t at t the t d e various colors are inser ed in ervals , dis ance being termi n ed the on the - t m an d the t on by laying braid pipe s e , posi ion th f the strings noted where e change o color is to take place . The

n he i t ma the t t li es of t pla in g y be easily followed in illus ra ion , which shows the introduction of quills ofcontrasting colors in their correct m — positions to produce the design . So e ofthese braids the product — ofearly workers measure only one-sixteen th of an in ch in wid th ; m i s t m t of odern work rarely so fine , of en easuring an eigh h an inch or more in width .

the of the t For a secure finish , ends sinew hreads are tucked

CONY R. M U D. . VOL . . 1 . AMER INDIAN IV . NO , PL XVII

QU I LL-DECORATED AR M -BAND museum or m e AmemeAN INDIAN

ORCHA RD -TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 3 5

n tan x m n n i s ce , e a i atio of the specimen illustr ated on plate XV I I

the use t n discloses of we ty such stran ds , which may be considered

t the m m i ra her mini u than other wise . This specimen s about one

on e- m m and quar ter inches wide . So eti es bands of this work are several inches in width . The process ofweavi n g consists first of making the warp strands t t t of ei her sinew or vege al fiber , which are s retched side by side - t t t s t . heir en ire leng h on a bow , much a a b ow string would be s rung

the r t rt the s t To keep wa p s rands spread apa de ired wid h , two pieces t t - t t t f of hick , lea hery birch bark are perfora ed wi h a s raight row o small holes corr espondin g i n n umber with the n umber of stran ds

the ta n th n r s to be used , and dis nce betwee e perforatio s cor e ponding

— F I G . . W v t c i t t s n . 3 5 o en e hn que . wi hou ewi g

t the n - wi h width of a flatte ed porcupine quill . A piece of bark so

at xt m t ofthe m t t prepared is placed each e re i y warp ele en s , wi h a

t n A e m s rand run ing through each perforation . t this stage th loo i e h n s s t ready for t e weavi g operation . Several attempts have been made to secure a loom set up for t t b ut t e t t n his echnique , h bes result obtainable in his directio is a

t the - t piece of unfinished work wi h birch bark ends s ill in position , and a nati ve description ofthe manner i n which the warp stran d s m 6 t t the t at . were s re ched on a bow , fro which illus r ion (fig 3 ) was h a m . t e t ar e m r t t ade In figure 3 5 warp s rands a ked ; ano her s ran d , m b ma n m the t m n t arked , which y be i cluded a ong wef ele e s , is attached to the outside warp stran d an d then made to pass alter MUS EUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N D I A N nately Dy er an d un der the war p to the 0 p trude at posits side wher e i t tu rn s an d cr osses over the back

i n assi n un e t r aga , p g d r hose st an ds whi ch i t o f t h e

ssed v er n the r v s mo m o cro o duri g p e iou ve en t. w r k This oper ation is r epeated to comme an other quill - i t n . a cu n s t io Me nwhile , por pi e quills inser ed have been woven in between with i ts en d

r t r an ov an the s m wa p s d s , er d under in a e

o t t p si ion , hen As the wor k proceeds the t h e cr ossing

u r so o r b d r iv q ills are c owded together , c d is much so that the cr ossing en tight again st

t an ar e n b e s an d s r ds hidde the two en d , tween the corr ugati ons ; the weaving i s

t the t ra in fac , on ly s nds continued . The showing i n a fin ished piece quills ar e used in

ar e th of work e two moisten ed , pliable

the t e i n W hen t on ou er dges, con di t o ; hey

the s t ar e and loop of the become dry , hey

s i t a n t an d cro s ng s r d s , s iff hard , and which together n ot br eak away from

r m t fo a selvage such a fasten i n g . Af er h edge . the work i s fi ni shed t e protruding ends are cu t

offclose to the weave . In the unfin ished specimen

the of this work , piece of bark

at the lower end of th e loom (fig . 36) slides fr eely up and down the warp

t i ts as strands , sugges ing use a weave sword to drive the quills up tight an d

I m n su re straigh t line across the weave . Fro the accu racy with which the quills are lined across the weave i t is e vident some implemen t must have been used to bring about the exquisite

— - — h r str s str t m. . l r r ss t e a s as o F I G 3 6 . Q ui l wo k in p oce wa p nd e ched on a bow u ed a l o ORCHA R D— TECHN I QUE OF POR CUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 3 7

m m n t finish so noticeable in thi s work . Fro a echa ical poin of view the piece of bark referr ed to i s an in genious adaptation if we assume that i t was used both as a spreader for the warp strands - and as a weave sword . This form of decoration has the appearan ce of bein g composed f m h l . m c t t e of fine , cylindrica beads Speci ens have been ollec ed ro n rt t tr the the t o hern A hapascan ibes , Indians of Grea Lakes , and

h the a . the i . O to t e t Iroquo s wing echnique , designs are angul r

som t tt l However , e very s riking pa erns have been produced , especia ly

t t t the wor thy ofno ice being ha illustrated in fron tispiece , in which the harmonious blending of colors i s typical of porcupine-quill work gen erally . The grea ter part of the detail of the ar t ofporcupin e-quill work thus far described is ofsuch a nature that the design s are incli ned t tt t to the m t m an i n o angu lar pa erns , due no doub e hods e ployed d some measure to the fact that many of the specimens exami n ed

e m a o f the s ar m v were coll cted fro Indi ns Plains , who e t see s to ha e been more or less influenced by their environment— with the ever

t - t the t t m t the presen cone shaped ipi , perhaps dis an oun ain peaks , t t t t tr t e rails , and o her objec s sugges ing s aigh lines , all of which wer

v z t more or less con entionali ed in heir designs .

m t n o t mm h Geo e rical designs , however , are unco on in t e work ofthe Woodland I n dians ; b u t the art of these people to some exten t

t t t a ti n n the b indica es a endency ow rd designs sugges g pla t life , a

f n t the ar h sen ce o which is o iceable in t of t e Plai ns tribes . Thus may the question of environment be considered also i n the art of

the Woodland people .

n t m Te drils , s e s , branches , leaves , and flowers are represented

someti mes in realistic fashion . The graceful curves of nature ar e t ma i m t t - r reproduced wi h re rkable sk ll in os exquisi e line wo k , involving many intrica te foldings of the quills an d seemingly

m sti t i possible ches , especially when we consider the fact that the

m m t t — an awl ost pri i ive ools were used , perhaps made of bone or

m t the t ff si ply a horn , and for a needle s i ened end of a si n ew thread . A number of methods of folding the quills have been employed

by the Woodland Indians in representing plan t life that were n ot MUSE UM OF TH E AMERI CA N I NDI AN us he the i t art n ma ed by t people of Pla ns , whose s yle of co sisted in ly

n x n s f t t rn w t of coveri g e te ive sur aces , ha is , patte s i h a solid back groun d of quills.

Plate XV I I I illustrates an en tirely differen t sty le . An exquisite

n h v n h floral desig as been worked , lea i g t e leather to form a back

n n n t n ot n rr far as to r ground . Co ve tio ali y has bee ca ied so obscu e

— ill l rs a . F I G . 3 7 . U se of two qu s of contrasting co o on a l ce of deerskin

’ the artist s i n ten tion of faithfully represen tin g leaves and flowers with thei r stems and gracefully curvin g ten drils . The specimen r o i s on e man t d r ut t the eferred t of y collec e yea s ago , b ei her record

as n or n n m o s s n o of i t h bee lost o e was ade , s that i t origin i t cer tai n ly kn own ; b ut after comparison wi th readily iden tifiable

n w r r i s r s to t a t moder o k , the e eve y rea on believe h t his choice piece - of po rcupin e quill embroidery is of Iroquois or igin . There are

0 " q

— . f n F I G . 3 8 Reverse o th e edgi g shown in fig ur e 3 7 . sev eral tech niques i n this specimen which are n ot found i n the work produced by the In dian s of the Plains . The edges of the - pouch an d shoulder straps (the straps are n ot shown i n th e illus tration ) are embellished with a v ery or namen tal tech ni que con si sti ng of a series ofqui lls wrapped ov er a filler an d sewed to the

re u t ate the two on e v l edg e s. Figu 3 7 ill s r s use of quills, o er appi n g . . N . 1 X CONTR MUS AME . INDIAN VOL . IV . NO . PL . VIII

I C Y I I QU LLED POU H . PROBABL ROQUO S museum o r m e AMERICAN INDIAN

OR CHA RD — TE CH N I QU E OF POR CUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 39 the f n t t colors whi ch t o ther , o co ras ing , have been urned over a lace of soft deerski n formi n g a filler . Stitches have been made over

as a the n . 8 t t each quill , m y be seen in drawi g Figure 3 illus ra es th of at t r m e reverse vi ew this edging , which firs glance has ve y uch the appearance ofbeadwork along the edges of th e object . i ll I n n t two u s . figure 39 , i s ead of q , one has been used The

the m th f n the ec t the t t drawing shows e od of oldi g and dir ion of s i ches ,

— fi r . F . r r v I G . 3 9 Method of folding a single quill on a co d of sinew o egetal be also that a cord ofsinew or perhaps ofvegetal fiber has been used t ins ead of a deerski n lace .

— m h i f F I G . o . A r t t r 4 nothe e hod of folding e qu ll o edging .

0 t t t f t f of the Figure 4 illus ra es an en irely dif eren old quill , b u t the stitches are carried over the lower turns of the quills as shown in figure 39 . - Figure 4 1 represents a single quill edge wi th a fold similar to t t ut he t tm t he i f ha shown in figure 3 7 , b t rea en of t sti tches is d fer en t t t m to the wo n , each s i ch being ade cross quill in t places i f h h t o t t e oft e . s ead one , hus changing appearance edging There is a possibili ty tha t the two methods last men tioned

the i t the m t b t n n express indiv duali y of akers , as hey occur u o ce i MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N

the m all speci en s examin ed . U nfor tu nately the proven ien ce of

the e m s u n b u t the n r sp ci en is nknow , ge eral cha acter of the design

s ts the art st h ugges of ea ern Indians , probably t e Iroquois .

— - I . A ill d i n tm h . F I G . 4 single qu e ge with change tr ea ent of t e stitching

Ano ther varia tion of a single-quill ed ging in con junc ti on wi th a m cord filler is shown i n figure 42 . The si ple foldings and stitches

i n the t f r t t i s are clearly shown drawing , herefore u her descrip ion

n n t m unn ecessar y . This ed gi g appears on a specime collec ed fro h h w t . I t r the i t e t e Io a ribe is a ve y old piece , and as edg ng is only o n e t rt the t tm n t ma showi ng his pa icular folding , rea e y be placed

n i n the i ndividual class . This stateme t as to indi vi duali ty must

— - 2 V r t s d t r fi r . F I G . 4 . a ia ion in ingle quill e ging wi h a co d l le

t t t t m n ot be accep ed as posi ive , as no doub here are any specimens

- e n ot am ofquill work tha t as y t are accessible for ex ination .

An attracti v e edging is represented in figu re 43 . The quills

f m as to f rm t t t have been olded in such anner o a saw oo h pa tern ,

f he t t m the wi th the points o t tee h urned away fro edge . Sti tches

he ofthe t have been passed th rough t loops urnings , into the surface of the leather and ou t at the extreme edge . The edgings described

o f m t t are all made up very fine quills and s all s i ches , and the wor k ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI N E-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 4 1 i s n t t t th t x t draw so close oge her tha e s itches are hidden , e cep in that edge shown in figure 4 1 ; b u t the sewing is so fine an d tightly

t i n drawn in this case hat i t is barely visible . These fine edg gs are n o t t m tt m to a found on modern work , for al hough so e a e pts p

i m the t proach t have been ade , resul s are coarse and ragged , and l do n ot possess that fine finish so characteristic of the o d work .

\ P 0 — F G . i s t h tt r . I . 43 Qu ll edging of aw oot pa e n

An m t f i i s n other e hod o decorat ng an edge show in figure 44 . Here the quills have been folded over the edge of the leather from f t t e m t . ron o back , bo h sides having th sa e appearance Spot t t t t t s i ches have been carried en irely hrough , catching firs one side ,

he t h n n o then t other . This echn ique as ot only bee applied t deer

— F I G . . E i r h fr r 44 dg ng p oduced by folding t e quills om f ont to back .

i b u t t on n f r n sk n , frequen ly appears intestine contai ers o quills , a illustra tion of which may be seen on plate I V . This specimen has been decorated at bo th ends . An examin ation of the detail of the work illustrated on plate XV I I I will show that the leaves and flowers have been outlined with MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I NDI A N

fin e i - h . u t t e m t m a , ha r like line Fig re 45 depic s e hod e ployed . The q uill i s flattened and twisted i n such manner that a stitch i s made between each turn of the quill ; the thread is caugh t into the

t r the n d s the o t n lea he under upper , a pa ses over l wer urn , e tirely

- F G . . D h I 45 etail of th e met od of outlining shown on Plate X V I I I .

con cealing the sewing . A line so made can ei ther be tu r n ed i n an ’ m t unbroken curve or ade s raight to conform to the artist s desire . Such lines occur so small an d fine that i t is almost incred ible they

m the could have been ade wi thout use of a fine needle and thread .

— m - r A m r . F 6 . s I G . 4 i ple fo of line wo k

m - A simple b u t crude for of line work is shown in figure 46 . I n this case the quill has been simply laid on the ar ticle to be decor ated and sewed over and over .

— . A r m t n st t . F I G 47 . fo of folding wi h diago al i ching

t the m as u t Figure 47 represen s sa e folding is seen in fig re 45 , b u wi th diagonal sti tchin g ins tead of a series ofsti tches made in the

same direction as the line . m f m Figure 48 illus trates a e thod o aking a raised line . The

n a or quills have bee wrapped round a sinew cord , perhaps a spli t

- to the t the t t bird quill , and sewed decora ion by passing s i ches through the loops formed by the quills as they were wrapped around ORCHA R D— TECHN I QUE OF POR CUPI N E-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 43

h i i i t e . t t s n filler A varia on of his shown in figure 49 , in which ,

n to the - sm s addi tio bird q uill filler , a s tring or all cord i included

F — m i r r r I G . 48 . Method of aking a r aised line by wrapp ng a ound a co e of sinew o - of spli t bir d quill .

he t m t t t t the and t s itches are ade over ha , ins ead of hrough loops of the quills . These raised lines are rather striking in effect and are foun d

he t f frequen tly around t ou er edge o a panel of some floral design ,

n o t the etc . a b u t as a fine line around edges of leaves , Bec use

n i m n o t t h t t at these li es have a filler , t ust t be hough t a hey are all

— F I G . t th e s 49 . Method of making a rai sed line with a str ing in addition o u ual fi ller .

m r t coarse , as so e have been measured that a e only a six eenth of an inch in diame ter .

Another raised-line effec t appears on a game ~ bag decorated by h t e Loucheux . The folding of the quills is similar to that shown in 44 MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CA N I NDI A N

- h figure 2 1 and also like the pipe stem braid i n figu re 3 2 . In t e Loucheux work a cord has been laid under the quills between the

t t . i t n a n to s i ches (fig produc ng a very nea , rou ded appe ra ce - - m n t of . the line . This speci en of li e work is one eigh h an inch wide

— - F I G . o . Ra s r k rd l r the ls. s i ed line wo . a co being aid unde quil

The beautifully curved tendrils illustrated on plate XV I I I are m t m f the u n t ma ade wi h a co plex olding of q ills , produci g wha y be

1 h called a double serr ate line . Figu re 5 illustrates t e direction of

f the i o he t n the t the folds o qu lls , and als t posi io of s itches . The

— F . 1 D il h e i s w i n Pl V I I I . I G 5 . eta of t fold ng ho n ate X do tted lines indicate the stitches following the shape of the teeth an d the poin ts at which they enter the leather under the apex of each turn .

— 2 . A v r he s F r 1 . F I G . 5 a iation of t folding hown in igu e 5

2 h i A variation is shown in figure 5 , in which case t e sewing s

t the t the as carried s raigh t along line , al hough folding is the same m I . u A m VOL lv NO . 1 . X X s. en . . CONTR INDIAN . . PL

DECORATION ON A GROS V ENTREEPIPE-BA G museum or m e AMERICAN INDIAN

ORCHA RD— TECHN I QUE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DECORA TI ON 45

n h m I i t e last exa ple . t will be observed that the thread is caugh t h h n t t e t tw t e t . I n t i o lea her be een poin s bo h instances , however , the work is don e so neatly and is drawn so tightly that the sewing t m is en irely concealed . This technique has been observ ed in any specimens of the older work . Several pieces of modern work presen ting the same tech n m to t b ut th fin ique have co e no ice , e fine ish of the early artists is lacking . An in teresting b i t of line-work was found on a pipe-bag collected from the Cheyenne ; i t the ar has appe ance of a very fine , single m link chain , and is ade of quills wi th points and ends cut off and laid in loops crossing

t t r v t t h a regular in e als , and s i ched over t e

crossings (fig . Li ttle or no attempt has been made to con ceal the cu t ends of the quills ; nevertheless the work is so fine that

this defect is hardly no ticeable . The sewing

n o t b ut i ts t is hidden , exposure ra her adds ff to the decora tive e ect than othe rwise . The

n - f links are about o e eigh th o an inch wide . This is the on ly piece of this technique that

h m to t i t ma as co e n o ice , and y be ano ther

v expression of indi iduality . A very neat line has been embroidered on

r m the t n ti seve al speci ens in Ca li collec on , of

n unknow tribal origin , and reappears on a modern piece of work by the Gros Ventres

h F m' 53 ° ” 3 X I X . t e n (pl . ) The line crossing upper e d - C h ey en n e pi pe bag ' he f o of the plate is t one re erred t . The t illustration shows hree rows of quills . The technique of the top r t t row has been desc ibed , and is illus ra ed in figure 45 . The two t ff m lower rows are of an en irely di erent technique . In aking this

two t t so f line quills of con ras ing colors have been used , and olded as to form a pattern consis ting of a series of interlocki ng diamon ds

tt the (fig . The do ed lines in drawing indicate the method of 46 MUSEUM or TH E AMERI CA N I N DI A N

folding an d the overlapping of the quills one over the other . A

- i he an th spot s titch has been used , cross ng t underlying folds , d e stitches are all conceal ed . The specimen of Gros V entre work shown in the plate does n ot im t he fi e f t i n the t n n . presen t n , care ul finish so apparen Ca li spec e s

— . t r f F I G . 54 Method of folding two quills of con r asting colors to p oduce ser ies o

inter locki ng diamonds. ( See pl . X IX . )

U nfortunately the latter are in such a poor state of preservation that they are n ot sui table for illustrati on . The regulari ty of the drawing in figure 54 is n o exag geration of the fine work produced

by the earlier artists . W here so many methods have been employed for f a s t e n i n g porcupine quills to materials t e

cei v i n t s o g decora ion , p radic technique mi ght

a re sonably be looked for ,

b ut t n i ma , s ra ge as t y

appear , few cases have m co e to ligh t . A good exarn ple is shown on

t X X pla e , in which we have a unique condi ti on in that the quills them selves have b een made to take the place of a .

. D 1i m f h r I F I G . 5 5 ets 0 f emod o t ead n g me quins thread that 1 5 the h ' , y av e r k n See l . xx . th ough s i . ( p ) been sti tched through the surface ofthe deerskin i n the form of what is commonly known - i as a herring bone st tch . . S . I . CONTR MU AMER . INDIAN VOL . IV , NO . . PL XX

QU IV ER OF NORTH ERN PLA INS OR IG IN UNITED sr Ar es NATIONAL museum

ORCHA RD — TECHN I QUE OF POR CUPI N E-QUI L L DECORA TI ON 47

in m The draw g (fig . 55) presents the ethod of threading the qui lls through the skin . Nothing like this has been found in the many

m m . the t t speci ens exa ined In firs place , no hread has been used to

t the the - n fas en quills , and herring bone pattern has ot been used

on an t m as n . y o her speci en , so far k own The piece of work r e ferred to may be seen on the plate in the form of three diamond shaped figures between the discs . The fact that examples of indiv iduality are so few (the workers

t t t the m t mm being apparen ly sa isfied wi h e hods co only in vogue) , and the wide d i stri b u ti on of many tech t niques , would sugges that the ar t of porcu pine-quill work was practised man y years before the arrival of E uropeans o n t h e

American continent . A great lengt h of time would be necessary for knowledge of the various methods to b e come so widespread Figure 56 is an e n lar ged drawing Of 3 — - F G 6 . R s tt r . I . 5 o e e in quill wo k very delicate rosette

I I I which occurs on several uniden tified specimens . In plate XV

am m t - ex ples of this e broide ry are shown wi h a fine , hair like line

the f h tt the t h of worked around edge o t e rose e , ec nique which is

i . the z he t shown n figure 45 Considering si e of t rosette in ques ion ,

t m t rt m t t m a rifle ore han a qua er of an inch in dia e er , his is a re ark

th to the able piece ofwork . The me thod of folding e quills produce

h e circle is shown in the drawing (fig . t e outer edge is secur d by m - the n t is the si ple spot stitch between each fold , while ce er held by a draw-str ing running through the loops of the quills an d fastened ' t tt the into the l eather with one stitch . Some of hese rose es show use of two or more colors . MUSEUM OF TH E AMERI CAN I NDI A N

Fringe forms a common feature of the decorative scheme of

the r m ri an is m ri No th A e can Indians , d ade usually of st ps of deer skin rangi ng from an inch or two to eighteen or twenty in ches long

m t to r t and fro an eigh h a qua ter of an inch wide , an d is applied o

t v s as to s clo hing in ariou ways , well as other articles for which uch decoration is suit

able . In many cases ornamenta tion h a s b e e n applied to the strands o f t h e

r f inge , such as wrapping t h e m w i t h porcupine

q u i l l s . Sewing has n ot been r e sorted to as a means of holding the quills i n posi ti on where soft tan ned deerskin has been used for

the r t f inge s rands , b ut where raw hide o r other sti ff leather has been e m p l o y e d a thread has some ti m es been used , — — . f F I G . 8 F l G . 57 M ci b od 0 f 5 Meth0d o under t ch the or namenti ng fr inge with or name nti ng fr inge wi th - Of the i - r ll r . quill wo k . ends qu lls qui wo k t have been ucked , b u t n ot in the sense of sewing as applied to other techniques . Figure 6 illustrates the method of fastening quills to a fringe of

t-t n n the n an d sof a ed leather . The wrappings are laid over e ds , w ti l e on the two here addi onal quills have been app ied or splic d , C N I VOL . NO . 1 . XXI ONTR . MUS . AME . IND AN IV . . PL

POUCH FRC M SAUK M ED IC IN E-BUNDLE MUS EUM OF TH E AME RI CAN IND IAN

OR CHA RD — TE CHN I QUE OF PORCUP I N E-QUI LL DE CORA TI ON 49 ends are held toge ther with a half-turn or twist and the wrappings m car ried over these twisted ends . This akes a continuous and secure binding tha t does n ot readily become displaced . The turns

the the f t m t so of quills around ringe s rands are ade close ogether ,

t he and th t hat t splicing e ends are concealed . Long s rings for pendent objects and tie-strings for moccasins have been decorated i n this fashion . This me thod has been used to some extent where the fringe strips have been made m fro rawhide , such as is frequen tly found - on pipe bags . There

m to see s , however , have been a prefer ence for the use of a fine cord fastened at each end of the fringe strip when made of

rawhide . The ends of the quills were g i v e n a half-turn around the thread , an d the wrappings passed over the ends

as shown in figure 5 7 . In this case the quills w e r e wrapped so closely that the ends and the cord were — M r m r t F I G . . et od o o e t e m 59 h f na n ing f ing wi h con cealed . A si ilar - quill wor k . wrapping is shown in

t t two e t t figu re 58 , wi h a varia ion , quills being work d along oge her

in stead of a single quill . Wrapped fringes were apparently ve ry popular among the quill

he he for t t f m t workers of t past , and t liking ha or of decora ion pre

m m t the n ot vails a ong odern workers , al hough work is so care 50 M USEUM OF TH E AMER I CA N I ND I A N

he m e m the s fully don e . Judging by t speci ens collect d fro Plain tr v f str for ibes , they e iden tly had a pre erence for rawhide ips fringes ,

x n . s ar e n e cept o clothing Mocca ins , however , occasionally fou d with such fri nge .

m n ri n the In a y cases where stiff leather has been used for f ge , str ips have been fastened in such manner that they could n ot

s pread a p a r t , and by the i n t r o d u c t i o n o f quills of var ious colors i n meas

ur ed s p a c e s , some elaborate patterns h a v e been w o r k e d

out .

Plate xxr i l lustrates an i n ter estin g form of ne tted fringe made ofa series of strands bound

together in pairs . I n figu re 59 i t will be seen that the first row of wrappings h a s taken the first F I G 6o —E x m e r l - r . . a pl of c ude qui l wo k by T m I a n d s e c o n d ho pson R i v er ndians. t t the s rands , hen

he f the f . O third an d fourth , and so on across t width o ringe n

h r ow the t t e t the t e second , firs s rand alone has been wrapp d , hen

t t t t the a t the second and hird , hus al erna ing p irs wi h row above ,

the n et- m t the t the producing like arrange en of s rands , with quill

the n f wrappings taking place of k ots o an ordinary n et . The drawing exaggerates the spread of the quills somewhat ; . . 1 . X CONTR . MUS . AMER . INDIAN VOL IV . NO . PL XII

C CI C M C I W C M M CI W OV ER OF R ULAR BOX . ODERN H PPE A O ER AL ORK

ORCHA RD— TECHN I Q UE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DECORA TI ON SI

I n l h t m t n alt the exa p e illustrated has t e s rands al os co cealed , hough an other object collected from the same source had the stran ds

m to t the only par tly covered . The speci ens referred were par s of conten ts oftwo very old medicine-bundles collected from the Sauk m an d Foxes . Some atte pt to introduce design was made by a chan ge of colored quills pro h d ucin g straight lines across t e fringe , which show indistinctly i n the illustration . To secure

h n the e t t e wrappi gs , ends of th quills were ucked th t t t under e firs and las urns , as is clearly shown in the drawi ng . A rather crude piece of quill decoration ema n ated from the Thompson River Indians of Briti sh m t m Colu bia . The decorated objec s consist of so e

rcu i n uills horse trappings . The po p e q have been cut in to short lengths and are held in positi on by pieces of deerski n sewed over both ends of the quills which are l aid side by side as shown in figure

60 . This example is recen t work and is said to be

i v l a surv al ofan o d form of decoration .

t man t a he a A young Paiu e , a s udent t t C rlisle

o t t hi s n r Sch ol , was ques ioned as o k owledge of po - cupine quill work among his people . His request m t m t for a erials being co plied wi h , he fashioned an

r m o na ent as illustrated i n figure 6 1 . This is made of sections of quills cut in equal lengths and F m . 6 1 . t a on e t t iI hre ded as would s ring beads , wi h a piece Th r eaded q u I

W r k “m c 3 of t tw h ° by lea her be een t e sections of quills . Accord i y oung Pmuw to tat m n i m ing his s e e t, t is an old for of decora t am m t m m v i ion ong his people , was so e i es ade se eral feet n length , ' t man and was used as par of a wo s headdress .

DE CORA TI ON or BI RCH -BA R"

The process of fastening porcupine-quills to birch-bark for decorative purposes is foun d to be very sirn ple when compar ed

it m n o t . w w h si ilar work lea her Se ing is entirely dispen sed with . MUS EUM OF TH E A ME R I CA N I N DI A N

Perforations are made i n the bark wi th an awl somewhat smaller in d m t th n the f w n has n r wn ia e er a quills , ollo ing a desig which bee d a

- n m with a blunt poi ted i plemen t usually made of bon e or an tler . A lead pen cil is frequently used for tracing design s on moder n m mm com ercial articles . The perforati on is made i ediately before th ofthe ui t the m e end q ll is inser ed , when bar k contracts to so e

n extent and holds the quill tight . U flatt en ed quills ar e in v ar iably m used in this for of decoration .

t X I I t t the - b ox as i s Pla e X illus ra es cover of a birch bark , such

f r frequently found o sale at summer resor ts an d in curiosity shops.

m — an m The design is si ple , and easily and quickly appli ed i por tan t feature duly considered by the Indi ans when an article is d mm - made for sale . The e ge has been tri ed with sweet grass m t m t . the im sewed wi h co ercial hread However , spec en well ser ves the pur pose ofillustrating quill-decorati on on birch-bark in i ts simplest form . The design has been worked out ver y taste m t rt i m i ts c t . fully , and here is a ce a n char in si pli i y The methods employed i n this case are the same as have been - used on all quilled birch bark . The design is outlined with a b lun t m poin ted ins trumen t. Some ti es a stencil or cut pattern is used

he m : t i t for t f h tr ti to guide t arker h s fac speaks i sel in t e illus a on , which shows three leaves to be of exactly the same shape and size . Ligh t pressure with the bone marker produces a well-d efin ed line

n on the bark which is o t easily obli terated . Some specimens have been examined which show that the design had evidently been f the o tt . t drawn withou t aid a pa ern In hese instances , however ,

n n t n he duplication of desig does o occur to any extent . Whe t

m t the t t to fit the to e drawing is co ple ed , ar is proceeds quills th

n patter . The treatmen t of the stems of the leav es in ou r illustration “ ” resembles what is kn own as the outline s ti tch in modern em

b u t t the ff t t the d o n ot m broidery , wi h di erence ha quills for a

i t i n the a m t t b u cont nuous hread as c se of an e broidery s i ch , t are

off to the on the t t to sa cu t close bark under side ; ha is y , each sti tch is simply a short piece ofquill with i ts ends turn ed down in to the

ff t the n t bark . This is e ec ed by passing quill poi t first hrough a . M UD. . . . 1 . CONTR AMER INDIAN VOL IV . NO . PL XXIII

I I I QU LLED B RCHBARK BOX ES . M C M AC museum or m e AMERICAN INDIAN

ORCHA RD — TE CHN I QUE OF PORCUPI NE-QUI LL DEC ORA TI ON 53

n m n n m he to the perforati o , fro the u der side , the fro t upper side

ff m m n o m a back , and cut o . So eti es a quill is lo g enough t ake sever l such stitches . The leaves are given similar treatment : perforations ar e made

n the ar e in rt r the an cu t offi n alo g ou tline , quills se ed ac oss leaf , d the same manner as for the stems . This bears a resemblance to “ " the satin stitch in our embroider y . Many specimens showin g realism i n design have been collected from the Indian s inhabiting

th e t to the stw a Great Lakes region , while hose ea ard h ve pro d uced more design s of a geometric nature . New B r unswick and

Nova Scoti a seem to lead in the latter form ofdecoration . Plates — XXI I I X X V presen t some elaborate geometric design s . An artistic selec ti on ofcolor s has added greatly to the exquisite workman ship - of the quill work on the specimens illustrated . The rectangular box represen ted in plate X X V shows a variation x m i n decoration around the sides of the cover . E cep ti ng a s all

r the t f h the squa e shown in cen er o t e picture , sides have been wrapped with spli t spr uce-roo t and decorated wi th in terwov en quills i n

n m f r m t t n rhomboids a d squar es . This for o o n a en a io occurs frequen tly and is often found to cover the sides of the boxes as well as the the u t has n w t the to sides of covers , b no box been fou d i h p so decorated . I n n early ever y case in which a birch-bark box is decorated w t — t n has n to the i h porcupine quills , a hi piece of bark bee secured

f he s as t n f r the cut reverse side o t decoration , pos ibly a pro ectio o

ofthe an i n an to the ends quills , d y event adding a very neat finish

f he inside o t box . ONTR. MUS . ER. INDI VOL. IV NO. I PL. XXV C AM AN . . I

EASTER N Poacumne ( ERETH IZ ON DORSATUS)

DY PERMISSION OF THE NEW YOR" Z OOLOGICAL SOCI ETY