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Lviv & Western Львів і Західна Україна pop 5.85 million / area 75,847 sq km

Why Go? ...... 95 More quintessentially Ukrainian than the rest of the coun- ...... 113 try, and distinctly more European, the west is all about its largest city, the Galician capital of Lviv. An emerging tourist ...... 113 magnet, the city is a truly captivating place, rich in historic Ternopil ...... 114 architecture and with an indulgent coffeehouse culture, Pochayiv ...... 115 but only a fraction of the tourist hordes who choke similar Kremenets ...... 116 city-break destinations such as Kraków and Prague. Piece- Volyn & meal gentrification has made only small dents in its shabby Rivne Regions...... 117 authenticity. The Soviets ruled for only 50 years here, making the west ...... 117 the most foreigner-friendly province with less surly ‘no-can- Shatsky National do’ bureaucracy than in eastern regions. People here speak Nature Park ...... 120 Ukrainian (rather than Russian) and show greater pride in Dubno ...... 121 Ukrainian traditions than elsewhere. Away from Lviv, the moody Carpathian Mountains are a short hop by bus, as are historic Lutsk, the olde-worlde spa Best Places to at and the golden domes of Pochayiv Monastery. Eat & Drink ¨¨Masonic Restaurant (p109) When to Go Lviv ¨¨Dim Lehend (p108) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm ¨¨Korona Vitovta (p119) 30/86 12/300 ¨¨Kupol (p109) 20/68 8/200 ¨¨Kabinet Cafe (p110) 10/50

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Best Places to -20/-4 0 Stay J F M A M J J A S O N D ¨¨Vintage (p107) May A great time Jul Experience Aug Pilgrims ¨¨Leopolis Hotel (p108) to be in Lviv with a Ukrainian flock to Pochayiv ¨¨Old City Hostel (p106) simultaneous summer of love Monastery during festivals filling at ’s the Feast of the ¨¨Hotel Zaleski (p119) the early part of Ethnofestival. Assumption. ¨¨Reikartz Medievale (p107) the month. #\

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