CAMBRIDGE COUNTY GEOGRAPHIES
I L MA D A d o : F U LE R M . . M G . D . e . . . G neral E it r H H , ,
TH E
NO RT H RID I N G
Y O R KSH IRE CAMBR I D GE U N I V E RS ITY PRE S S
. AY MANAG E R C . CL F ,
ONDON E E R NE E C . L F TT LA , 4
N W Y R K T N A ’ N E . U O G P . P M S S O S BOMBAY N AND L AL TTA AC I LLA C . TD C O . C U M M , M ADRA S M DE N T AND N LT D T R NT . . O O O J SO S , T O KYO MAR U ZE N - KABU S H I KI- KAI S H A
A L L R IG H T S R E S E RV E D n
’ Camérzc/ge County Geograph er
TH E N O RT H RIDIN G
O F YO RKSHIRE
W WE STO N E S CA P . . . C T . J , .
W M D o s ith aps, iagrams and Illustrati n
Cam bridge at th e U niv e rsi ty Pre ss
CONTE NTS
PAG E
o S na s Rid in and C unty and hire . The me g
' Yorksbzre ; their Origin and Mea ni ng G eneral Ch arac teri sti c s
S z . S o n s i e h ape . B u darie Surfac e and G eneral Features
‘ ‘ s Water shed . River . G eo l ogy Natural Hi story Al ong the Co ast
oas a a an o ss s a o o s C t l G ins d L e . H rb ur W rk Climate and Rai nfall — o a S n s o a o Pe ple R ce , Dialect, ettleme t , P pul ti n
- Cultivatio ns W ood l and S o Agriculture Main , , t ck Indu stries and Manufacture s Mines and M ineral s
Fi sheries and Fi s hing Stati o ns . Shipping and Trade Hi story A ntiquities — Architecture (a) Eccle sia stical — Architecture (b) Military — Architecture (c ) Do mestic — Co mm uni c ati ons Past and Present — Admini strati on and Divi s i o ns A ncient and M oder n The Roll o f H ono ur O f th e Co u nty The C hief To wns and Vill age s o f th e N orth Ridi ng ILLU STRATI ONS
Acro ss the Yo rk s hir M oo rs e g
a n the o an Viro s1d um B i bridge , R m
Co o a o n oa M s o rp r ti R d , iddle br ugh S a o o So Ba c rb r ugh , uth y
G Ravm e o n s o an o r Hell hyll , the We tm rl d b der
O s at o The u e Y rk .
Saltwic k Ba y , Whitby View fro m Le yburn Sh awl
os o n R eberry T ppi g .
A Dale To w n : Muker in Upper Swaledale. T he G reta near Ro keby
H o o n the ha o igh F rce , Dur m b rder Hard raw Scar
Ha s o n th e U re . we , Se mm e r Water Cavities in Butte rtub s Pas s
Brid estone o n o n a The , Th r t D le How th e N o rth Ridi ng l o st its coal
E Co n o n C ffs gg llecti g , Bempt li , ‘ as c 1ifl E t , Whitby Staithes So uth G are Breakwater
— - T he M oo rs abo ve Hutto n l e Ho le i arn a F d le . Yo rk s hire cattle at Crakeh all Clevel and Bay Stalli o n ILLUSTRATIO NS vii
as s s o Bl t Furnace , Middle br ugh " The Staple Product o f Clevel and
o n o r an Foo d for the fur nac e s . Ir e d limestone Fi s hi ng Smack s at Sc arbo ro ugh Scarbo ro ugh Castle ’ Wade s Cau seway ; a Roma n R oad o n Wheeldale M oo r Roman Road s and Stati ons Kirk Hammerton Church Rievaulx Abbey G ui sbo ro ugh Pri o ry
T he o an C as m Ch N rm rypt , L tingha urch F re scoes i n Pickering Church Spennitho rne C hurch Richm o nd Castle ’ T h e King - Maker s Castle (Middleh am) Bo lton Castle ” Rafter - built h ouse shoiving cruck s and framewo rk Snape Castle Castle Ho ward M ar ske H all ‘ Buttertub s Pas s
s s n a s Muker Pa , e r A krigg Saltburn Woo d s and Vi aduct
V c o a S a and o s o i t ri qu re T wn Hall , Middle br ugh Jo h n Wyc lif Captain Cook Sir Lo wthian Bell A skrigg H all Bedale Street Leyburn Ul shaw Bridge
a a as M rket Pl ce , M ham Whitby Di agram ILLUSTRATIONS
M APS
No n o o a a rth Ridi g , T p gr phic l G eo l ogical
Rai nfall M ap of E ngl and
T he s a ons o n . 1 2 6 1 0 2 1 1 8 1 1 1 are f o illu tr ti pp , 7, , , 9 , 4 5 r m h R n n a o n o o a s n s t e ev . . so ph t gr ph ki dly upplied by W De i , th t
2 is o o s o f the s Co ns an Com p . 5 repr duced by c urte y Tee erv cy f ss s m ss o n os o n . 2 8 ss o n o i i ; th e p p 7 , 74 , 7 by permi i Me r
f o o o a s s o o au an and C o . Ltd . B lck w , V gh , , r m ph t gr ph upplied by f th e o o o Co . . a o n . 1 2 0 s s o n o Ph t chr m , Ltd , th t p by permi i
K n o 1 is nd . a o n . C . . nno a Mr F I cent Mr J e w rthy , th t p 4 3 f o a o o a n s Sir o r m ph t gr ph ki dly upplied by Hugh Bell , L rd
nan of the o n Lieute t C u ty .
T h e o o a s o o n . 8 2 2 2 2 ph t gr ph repr duced pp 3 , , 4 , 5 , 7, 3 , 3 4 ,
2 6 1 0 1 1 2 1 2 s . . . o nso n 4 , 5 9 , 5 , 7, , 3 were upplied by Lieut A H R bi ,
“ 1 I 1 2 2 2 1 1 tho se on ° 8 0 8 8 0 1 1 PP 5 1 7) 1 5 1 7: ) ) 3 1 : 4 9 ) 1 9 3 1 8 1 3 1
‘ 1 1 1 2 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 0 1 1 1 1 1 2 s s s 7, , 4 , 7, 9 , 3 , 3 5 , 4 7, 5 , 5 by Me r
d o o s o n 1 an C . . . 6 6 8 8 . a Frith , Ltd , th e p p 4 , , 9 , 5 7 by Mr E H ll ,
os o n . 1 and 1 1 s s s a s and Co . . and th e pp 3 9 4 by Me r M n ell , Ltd ,
a o n 1 1 os s . th t p . 0 by Mr F . H . Cr ley m s i d i n 1 n and S h i re . Th e na e . Co u ty R g
and York s h i re ; th e i r Origi n and
Me ani ng .
Yo rkshire is o f s o great extent that it is no t surprising to find that it h as fro m very early times been treated
ow n as three separate c ounties . Each Riding has its
o — Own o f s L rd Lieutenant and its c unty O fice ; and ,
o C o i s fo r o o s th ugh the ity Of Y rk , s me purp es , the
w n o o o f o o . capital the wh le , each has its c unty t wn
o i s o o That fo r the N rth Riding N rthallert n . The English kingd o m s that were fo unded in ou r island
o o u no t o s after the departure Of the R mans c ld , in th e days Of difficult travelling, be pro perly go verned fr o m
n e o o o s hares o r o p int . They were theref re divided int s bires o o to to , r ughly acc rding the number Of men able fight ; and the men Of these Shires were them s elves
fo r o o f o o answerable m st duties g vernment . Y rkshire w as a p o rti o n s k arn Off (the derivati o n Of the wo rd is the “ ’ ” o s same as that Of shire) by the wedge Of Bish p land ,
o o f o o of the c unty Durham , fr m the great kingd m
o N rthumbria .
W . Y. 2 S T YORK HIRE , NOR H RIDING
for offi The shire was ruled the king by an cer, usually — — called an Ealdo rman ; the L ord Lieutenant Of to day is his representative . When the Normans came they called him Comte or Count ; and the district over which
h ad o o w as Comitatus Comté o r o C . he c ntr l a , a , unty But a good many o f the shires did no t bec ome c ountie s ;
o Co o o o s the N rman unt w uld ften rule ver several hires .
as as of Thus , even late the reign Elizabeth , the traveller Camden speaks o f the N orth Riding as made up Of four s Ric hm o nd shire S hires . These were , waledale and the adj oining plain given by the Co nquero r to his c ou sin ;
Cl ev el and shire f s All ertonshire , the land Of cli f ; ; and
Bl ac k am o re oo for , the black m rlands , the Old name the
oo C bleak m rs between leveland and Pickering Vale . Th e name Ric hm o nd shire is still used to den o te o ne o f the four divi si o ns Of the c ounty having a member in parliament .
s s oo o o n A hire u ually t k its name fr m its chief t w .
s s o h l Thi is the ca e with Y rks ire , Of which the Ang ian — E o ervi ce S c re s o . name was f y , the hire Of Y rk The “ ” w as E o ervi c e o — Anglian city called f , the ver city . When the Danes ruled in Yo rk they gave the Anglian
o orvi/e th e o o name a Danish s und , 7 ( j being pr n unced . o s o tw o s as y ) , and in c ur e Of time this w rd Of yllables
o o o as o orvi/e bec mes the m dern Y rk . Or, s me think , j “ ” may mean the settlement (vi/e) o n the Ure and have no o relati n to the Anglian name . “ ” s o i s to s wh o The name Riding al due the Dane , ,
s s e e to d o w o s . as we hall , had much ith Y rk hire The wo rd has l o st its first s ound tb because it was so Often COUNTY AND SHIRE 3
e o o or . o pr ceded by the w rds N rth, East, West N rth
o —th rid in h e tb o o riding is really N rth g. T w uld be the m re
o tw o o o as one easily l st as the w rds were m stly written .
For s o for in tance , we have in the R lls Of Parliament “ 1 S of o Estrithin o 474, The hire Y rk in the g, N rth rith n We s trith n of Tbri to y g, and y g the same . is kin the
Acro s s th e Y o rk s hire M o o rs
fo r three d i n or thin Danish , and g g is the part o r shire
of its ow n that has an assembly . We meet with this syllable d ing o r tbi ng o r tbring wherever the Danes have
: o o settled thus in the N rth Riding, far up am ng the
o o f Thrin arth m untains the west , is the little village Of g , the garth o r mead ow in which men gathered to talk
I—Z 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o things ver . A Riding, theref re , is a third part Of a
l o arger wh le , which part nevertheless has an assembly
s — o o — O i i ts o wn a hire m t .
o o o as o Y rk was kn wn in R man times Eb racum ,
and the firs t tw o s yllables Of this name are s till in u s e; Th e Arc hbish Op s o f Yo rk empl oy them as the Official signa
C as Co o o ture, preceded by the hristian name, sm Eb r .
2 . Ge ne ral Ch aracte ri s tics .
o o o ne o The N rth Riding, th ugh nly Of the three
s o o h o part int which Y rks ire has l ng been divided , is
Ve t o o s f urth in size Of English c untie , and its wide area c o ntains much Of the very greate s t intere s t and imp o rt
s o S ance . On the we t , fr m beneath the New Red and
s o i o t ne and the gravel Of the plain , r ses the regi n Of
o s o s s s o f m untain lime t ne . There, the huddled ma e
m o s s a s untain , with their ecluded v lley , their rapids , and
s o no t their waterfall , aff rd rugged and grand scenery
the s s o easily equalled . In Tee Valley al there is striking
s Fo r o o cenery . there the hard igne us r ck Of the Whin
S o s s s s s to o o ill cr s e the valley, and, yielding le ea ily er si n
th e s o C o o o s s s than fter arb nifer us beds ver which it pa e ,
o r o s s s f rms idges . Acr the e ridges the river dashes in
o s s Fo imp sing fall . Wen leydale, where Aysgarth rce is
o n e o s s s s l am ng numberles fine cene , is with ju tice ca led
o F o o C s the Piedm nt Of England . r m Richm nd a tle is a view eastward o ver a wide s tretch o f level farmed land ;
C to o o o o e a o and Pickering astle , , , l ks v r pr ductive
6 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
saucer - like vale sc ooped out l ong ago by m oving ice
ffs fields . The fringe Of cli that face s the N orth Se a is broken by many beautiful bays in which nestle a number Of t owns well placed for fi shing and pleasant as h oliday
o . o o s as w e res rts Al ng the s uth bank Of the Tee ,
o s e a o o appr ach the , we find a cr wded district Of m dern
o o industry, Of blast furnaces that turn the ir nst ne Of the
C o fo r on- o leveland Hills int material the ir w rker, Of — s - s o steel mill , Of ship yards , and Of bu y d cks and quays
— o f n o Nine tenths the ridi g is still ccupied by farms . The broad valley between the Pennine fells and the No rth Yo rkshire m o o rs on the east i s c overed by excellent
o o o s il . The green fertile plain , spread ver the s ft sand
o s s o st nes and marls Of the New Red erie Of r cks , stretches to the s terile m o orlands east and we s t where the lime
o s o o o st ne emerge fro m i ts deep f undati n . The Y rkshire farmer has l o ng been famed fo r his skill and energy — York h as one o f the largest cattle markets in the c o untry ; the Yorkshire breed Of h orses attract s buyers to the No rthallert o n fairs from all parts Of the Co ntinent ; and
o o o . Y rkshire hams and bac ns are well kn wn But , as
- i s s o o . in m st parts Of Britain , the farm w rker vani hing
o e o o u At the last numbering Of the pe pl , th ugh the p p lati o n Of the whole riding sh owed during ten years an
o s o or increase Of ver eleven in a hundred, every divi i n
wo tw o o . t wapentake , except , sh wed a decrease The excepti o ns were tho se we may call urban ; the rural wapentakes all sh owed a decrease in the number o f
inhabitants . GENERAL CHARACTE RISTICS 7
Middlesbro ugh and Scarb oro ugh with their attendant t owns had grown rapidly ; many a c o untry wo rker had
o o o or . f und empl yment in the t wns had emigrated Yet , in Spite Of these tw o small areas where pe ople are cl osely
o o so massed , the rest Of the c unty c ntains few inhabitants that the N orth Riding is am o ng the m o st s parsely
o our o pe pled Of c unties .
v-f fl v l v "“ i t 0 V V N r w I a s or x g y r } w $$ “" ‘ ‘ v
C o o at o n R o a M e s b o rp r i d , iddl r ugh
oo o M s o is The mushr m t wn , iddle br ugh , indeed a remarkable illustrati o n Of the manner in which the wo rking of the huge s to res o f iro n o re in the Cleveland — Hills is transfo rming this part Of the c ounty turning it from a quiet farming regi o n int o a n oisy and bustling
a o manufacturing centre . A hundred years g the Site Of Middlesbro ugh was o ccupied by a few farmsteads ; 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
now a p opulati o n Of o v er a hundred th ousand finds
o o o w rk in the smelting and w rking Of ir n, and in the
— o o Shipping, ship building, and ther industries that ir n
h as a to s o dr wn the p t .
o o — c hi efl S o o i s o The c ast t wns y carb r ugh, which als
o s the greatest Of Y rkshire watering place , and Whitby,
S a b o o t B a c r ro ugh , S u h y
where a busy new t own has grown up al o ngside the
o ne— s S ancient have a great fi shing indu try . car
o o s s o O i o — s o b r ugh tand f urth the n rth eastern fi hing p rts ,
o o o S s nly Hull , Hartlep l , and hield ha ving greater
fish o quantities Of br ught in .
as o Rich the N rth Riding is in natural beauty, the
1 0 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
. s ee East and West Ridings But , as we shall , the b oundarie s Of the c ounties o n the sides o f the great
no t o — divide are quite al ng the line Of water parting .
for o o o The Greta , instance, fl ws int the N rth Riding
o o on fr m Westm rland , where it rises the flattened height
S o Fo called tainm re rest .
. i . S h a e . B n 3 S z e p o u d ari e s .
The No rth Riding is fo urth in area Of the c ounties
. o or 2 1 2 1 Of England It extends ver acres ,
n : o to o square miles Of la d its neighb ur the s uth ,
s our o s o the West Riding (large t Of all c untie ) , Linc ln
o s o shire, and Dev n hire , al ne have a greater extent . It i s o a little m re than twice the size Of Durham , its neigh b our to the n o rth ; and no fewer than fourteen Rutl and s
o to o w uld be needed c ver its surface . — The c ounty forms an irregular four sided figure
o ne o f o o with great angle land , having Y rk at the p int ,
o o o o t wards the s uth . It is r ughly an Obl ng, stretching ab o ut twice as far east and west as it d o es n o rth and
o on i ts o . s uth, and having a triangle s uthern side The l o ngest line that can be drawn within the area is fro m
o — o M o the n rth western c rner, where aize B eck j ins the
to o — o o infant Tees , the s uth eastern c rner, a little n rth
o f o F Of where the spur r ck , iley Brigg, runs a mile
o s s o 8 int the sea . This line mea ure ab ut 7 miles , and a
o to o s of line fr m Redcar Y rk , a di tance 45 miles , is the
o l o nge s t that can be drawn directly n orth and s uth . SHAPE SIZ E BOUNDARIES 1 ]
The very irregular o utline Of the riding is due to th e o on o nature Of its b undaries , which east , n rth , and w s e a o . est , are respectively , river, and m untain They
H e l l R i n n h e W t o n l G hy l av e , o t e s m rl a d b o rd e r
o are what we term natural b undaries . On the fo urth
too O ff o o side, , the line marking the N rth fr m the E ast and West Ridings is mainly one of m ountain ridge o r of
river c o urse . 1 2 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o i s o Se a h The eastern b undary the N rth , w ich curves
o o o o h Fil e to Mo r und fr m a p int n rt Of y Brigg Tees uth . The s eaward edge Of the Yo rkshire heights fro nts the
Th e O u s e at Y o rk
waves with a b old stretch of high cliffs . The Tees
o o o f thr ugh ut the greater part its length , tearing its way
o o o or s o o thr ugh the m untain r cks , l wly cr ssing the plain
M s o om at iddle br ugh , separates the riding fr Durham , SHAPE S IZ E BOUNDARIE S 1 3
o o w o and fo rms the n rthern b undary . The estern b rder extends fro m where Maize Beck fl o ws al o ng the flanks o f
M F to o to ickle ell j in the Tees Newby Head , where at a
‘ h eigh t o f 1 40 0 feet the ro ad fro m Westm o rland climbs
o o o o o int o Y rkshire . This part Of the b rder f ll ws r ughly
Fo r o the line Of greatest height in the Pennines . a Sh rt distance where it runs cl o se to and parallel with the
o o ou infant Ure , the Eden f rms the c unty b ndary, running
o o in a dark limest o ne ravine . We shall have pp rtunity
r o fo studying these three b undaries in later chapters . Fro m Newby Head the b oundary line stretches
o o to o — o t wards Y rk the s uth east . It is f rmed by. the crest Of that spur fro m the Pennines which separates V Wensleydale in th e N o rth Riding fro m V h arfe d al e and
Nidderdale in the West Riding . The summit Of Buckden ' 2 0 2 o ne few i es o r o Pike , 3 feet high , Of the p p inted
o o F o n m untains , is cut by the b undary . arther east
o . h e rnsid e Wh ernsid e the b rder are Great W and Little .
s F This crest reache the river Ure at Hack all , a deep
oo o w ded ravine thr ugh which the Ure rushes swiftly . e S The river, called the Ouse aft r it receives the wale ,
o o u to o o then f rms the b undary p Y rk , th ugh in parts near Rip o n and B o ro ughbridge the West Riding extends
o to o ver the n rth side Of the stream . From The Wyke n o rth o f Filey Brigg the b o rder line
o o o to cr sses the c ast range Of w lds the river Derwent . Tw o miles fro m the c o ast the river Hertfo rd fl owing west “ ” to the Derwent al o ng the l ow - lying carrs is the
o o s s o to o b rder , and c ntinue its juncti n with the main
o stream . The b rder then foll o ws the wanderings Of th e 1 4 S I YORK HIRE , NORTH R DING
o — o o M o to Derwent s uth westwards t wards Y rk, past alt n
S o tamf rd Bridge . Here the Derwent makes a sudden
to o ou fo r o turn the s uth , and the b ndary, artificial ab ut
o s s o ten miles , cr s e the plain past H ltby till we reach
o o o Y rk . The East Riding is the neighb uring c unty from The Wyke to Yo rk ; the Wes t Riding from Newby
to o Head Y rk .
Ains t o f o o The y Y rk , in which the city stands in pr ud
o o o o is is lati n , c nstitutes a c unty in itself, and an instance Of the c o nfusi o n caused by the varying divisio ns Of
s o Fo r o o o Engli h c unties . purp ses Of l cal g vernment the Ai ns ty is a wapentake Of the West Riding ; fo r parlia
o o o mentary purp ses , h wever, it f rms part Of the Thirsk
o o divisi n Of the N rth Riding . There are now no part s Of the No rth Riding separate from the main area as in fo rmer times ; no r are p o rti o n s
o Of ther c o unties co ntained within its b o rders . In early days the Bish ops o f Durham had rule o ver the Old ' village Of Crayke and th e adjoining regi o n within three
1 of miles . In 844 Parliament made this survival the — prince bishopric a part Of the riding .
4 . S u rface and Ge ne ral Fe atu re s .
The No rth Riding may be divided int o three main — - . o o areas The western part , bey nd the m und and river
o o i s o of o o o f rt Of Richm nd , the regi n m untain m rland
o to and r ugh pasture, adding little the wealth Of the
o o c unty . Breaking up this regi n are th e wider dales o f SURFACE AND GENERAL FEATURES 1 5
S . o o the Ure, wale, and Tees The n rthern extensi n Of th e fertile Vale of Yo rk - the Vale Of Mowbray it is at times called because Of the great n obles who liv e d and
S al twi c k B a W i b y , h t y
— fo ught there separates th e Pennine fells from the North
o oo o o Y rkshire m rs , a huge limest ne slab l wer than the
o o e Pennine ridge , but m re bleak and dreary, br k n by
o e d a and s to . one narr w r les , le s easy traverse The 1 6 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING tolerable ro ad s outhward i s that running thr ough
o S o to m o Bilsdale fr m t kesley Hel sley . B ey nd the m oo rs and stretching to the Derwent is the Vale o f
Pickering . The eastern m o o rs abut up o n the s e a in a line of — l ofty cliffs the l o ftiest indeed al o ng the Engli s h c o ast
y to o and fall rather abruptl the plain Of the l wer Tees .
o s o o Th ugh less interesting in scenery thi plain , a p rti n
C o o Of leveland , is by far the m st imp rtant part Of the c ounty by reaso n Of its proximity to easily - wo n st o res
o o to o o f Of ir nst ne, the c al Of Durham , and the lime
o is o L ftus . It the industrial part , c ntaining half the
o o p pulati n . The c ounty as a wh ole lie s higher ab o ve the sea than d o o s o s : m st Engli h c untie wide Stretches , as will be
o o o o seen fr m the map inside the fr nt c ver, are ab ve
l o — s 1 20 0 w . the feet line , and little is lying The highe t summit Of all is that Of the fitly - named Mickle Fell o n
o o s s o M . u the western m r , uth Of aize Beck Here , j st wi o of o thin the riding, the millst ne grit cap the m untain
i s no t i s 2 1 o s e a. 59 feet ab ve the It a Striking peak ,
Wh e rnsid e o n s o o and Great the We t Riding b rder, th ugh
o 2 1 0 i s o o o l wer ( 3 ft high) , m re c nspicu us and better
o SO too i s s kn wn . Penhill , rising abruptly in the mid t
n ro o o i Of We sleydale, and c wned , like ther n t ceable — a o o heights , with its ancient be c n . In the n rth east
' Ro seberry Topping ri s es in a similar abrupt manner
o C i s o o o fr m the leveland Plain , and theref re m re fam us than the much higher Burt o n Head farther o n the plateau .
1 8 S YORK HIRE, NORTH RIDING
o S in height , divide and c nfine the dales . eparating Wen sleydale fro m the We s t Riding a spur passes through
Knou tb err Wh ernsid e h .to v Hill , , and Pen ill the plain
M o o Shu nnor at asham . N rth Of the Ure fr m Great
F 2 6 o f S ell ( 54 ft high) , between the headwaters wale o o o o d to and Ure, a m n t n us ri ge descends the plain near
R o s e b e rry T o ppi n g
o o o Ainderby, f rming in its c urse the strange limest ne S terrace called Leyburn hawl . The greater Yo rkshire dales have little c omm unic a
o o s o s w d o not o ti n acr s the m untain ridge , hich bend int
o s s o o c nvenient pa es . The m untain r ad fro m Hawes to
M for i s o to to uker, instance, f rced climb a height Of
1 0 0 . Buttertub s o 7 ft This is Pass , bearing this curi us SURFACE AND GE NE RAL FEATURE S 1 9
name from the presence al o ng its c ourse Of deep h oles
o where the limest o ne has been diss lved .
of the o f East Thirsk a steep scarp , western ridge the
oo o o . m rs , rises fr m the Vale Of Y rk This ridge is the
o o n — o Hamblet n Hills , rising heather clad Black Hamblet n
2 o s e a C to 1 57 ft ab ve the . The leveland Hills are the n o rthern part Of the eastern m oo rs : they rise in Burt o n
o to 1 8 Head , near the s urce Of the Esk , a height Of 4 9 ft , 1 — to 1 0 and in the c o ne shaped Ro seberry Topping 57 ft . l o . o o o At Est n Nab , with its rich ir nst ne dep sits , the
o to plateau dr ps the Tees Valley . The Carb o niferou s Limest o ne gives rise to b old scenery ; and in what are called the Yo re d al e ro cks (fro m their having been studied m o st cl o sely in the valley o f
o r o of o the Ure Y re) the successive steps shale , sandst ne, and limest o ne form the terraces and steps s o frequent in Wensleydale .
The fertile Vale Of Pickering is Of great interest . An area Of 1 60 square miles is hemmed in by hills on all sides except t owards the s e a ; its fl oo r is a level flat
s o o o s Of alluvial c urings br ught d wn by stream . This — alluvium c overs a deep seated valley cut o u t in the f clay . The drainage Of the wh ole s o uthern mp e o the
o o o eastern m rlands gathers int the Derwent . But this
o f e s e a s deep trench , instead r aching the ea tward , is twisted back in a m o st curi o us way and cuts through
How ard ian s to o the Hill the Vale Of Y rk .
o o The physical feature , h wever , that m st distinguishes
1 “ I n th e N o rth Ri d i ng a n ab i s th e s te e p c ut e nd o f a ridge d rop pi ng “ ab ru tl to th e l a n a to n a ak d h p y p i ; ppi g i s p e e e ight.
2— 2 20 S E YORK HIR , NORTH RIDING
o o o is the riding fr m ther English c unties the number , size , and beauty Of its dales . The three great dales
s S threaded by the Tee , wale , and Ure are very attractive, as indeed are their tributary dales , penetrating deep
' o o r b rawlin b e k int the m untain idges , traversed by a g p ,
A D al e T o w n : Muk e r in U pp e r S w al e d al e
r and Often graced by a ruined abbey o castle . The
s a o o ea tern dales are n rr wer and wilder , are rather g rges
oo s too o in the m r ; but they, , are delightful , and s me ,
Fo o s for like rge Valley and Esk Dale , are fam u their beauty . WATE RSHED RIVERS 21
a rs h d . i e rs . 5 . W te e R v
o The N rth Riding is , in the main , a part Of the l o nger and m o re gentle eastern sl ope fro m the great arch Of ro ck that we call the Pennine Range ; and with the sl ope t o wards the N o rth Se a is als o a m ore gradual sl ope to the n o rthern end Of the English Plain . The
S o larger rivers , the Tees , wale , and Ure , have theref re
o - o a general s uth easterly directi n . The western b oundary o f the basins fro m which the Yo rkshire rivers draw water foll o ws roughly the line Of
o o greatest elevati n Of the Pennines . This b undary is
’ fo r the main watershed Of the rivers . It separates ’ instance (on the sl ope Of Lund s Fell they are o nly a few yards apart) th e head - waters Of the Ure fro m th o se
o o o O Of the Eden . We Sh uld n te , th ugh , that like ther features even Of the s olid land the watershed i s no t
o o fixed . I t is sl wly retreating eastward ; m re water is
to to o ea S . being carried the Irish , less the N rth It is — clear fo r in s tance the width o f its bed makes it Obvi ous — that the Maize Beck o nce gave far m o re water to the
o now Tees than it d es . I t has been beheaded by a
o Stream fl wing westward . Two things wo rki ng t ogether acc o unt fo r this diver
o o si n Of water fr m the east . One is the steeper western sl ope Of the Pennines ; the o ther is the greater rainfall on o o the west . B th these give t the western streams
o v o s o to eat m re exca ating p wer, and cause them back
o o int the m untain ridge . 22 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
The eastern spurs fro m the Pennines separate the
s s S drainage area Of the Tee , the wale , and the Ure . The rivers running thro ugh the vales thus fo rmed S — Teesdale , waledale, and Wensleydale are like the
s s main veins Of a beech leaf, the maller beck that das h
o o o d wn the encl sing m untains are the tributary veins . On the huge uneven slab o f limest o ne that alm o st fills the eastern p o rti o n Of th e riding o ne canno t define
- i s s a clear water parting . The plateau inter ected by — deep dales thro ugh which peat stained s treams gather s outhward int o the Derwent o r int o its chief feeder the
o r o o E sk Rye , n rthward int the and the Leven . The E s k is the chief river Of Cleveland and the o nly river Of
s o ff to s ea any Size that break thr ugh the cli s the . At Cro nk l ey Gill it cut s its way by a deep ravine through
o o the m rland ridge . The rivers Of the riding seld o m lack a c opi o us supply Of water : the rainfall o n the l o fty and bro ad m o o rs is
o s great and evenly spread ver the year , and the tract Of
- b o s o m oss and peat c overed g t re up plentiful reserves . As in Other limest o ne districts there is much water
for s h as o o . circulati n undergr und The Greta , in tance , wo rn fo r itself at o n e p oint a way thro ugh the limest o ne ’ and h as formed a natural bridge (Go d s Bridge peo ple 1 6 20 o call it) , feet in span and feet wide, and a sh rt
o distance away it passes fo r half a mile undergr und . The water supply o f Scarb orough is derived entirely
o o fro m such underground circulati n . It is drawn fr m
o the Corallian ro cks which rest o n the Oxf rd Clay .
These water - bearing layers are tapped by deep wells at WATERSHED RIVERS 23
o o ff C o Irt n and Osg dby, and by adits in the cli at ayt n
Gormire tOO Of . , Bay , a few miles east _ Thirsk a small
o f o no expanse water s metimes called a lake , has visible outlet ; its waters drain away thro ugh pervio us ro ck until
o they l o dge o n the clay or find their way int the Rye .
e is The surface wat r rapidly disappears , and there an
T h e G re ta n e ar R ok e b y
o abundance Of Open j ints and cavities . The best instance Of th ese is on the m o untain ro ad fro m Hawes to Muker
o S acr ss the watershed between Ure and wale . Near
of Buttertub s the summit the pass are the , already
o menti ned . Where there is a millsto ne grit cap o ver the limest o ne the layers of rock have varying p owers Of resistance 24 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
r to waste (o weathering) . The Millsto ne grit indeed
no t o as weathers rapidly, but is s luble in acid water the
o o limest ne is . And where limest ne rests , as usually
o o n o s to it d es , s fter shale , we have a third layer add
to o as t the unequally resisting r cks . There are , a resul , an extra ordinary number of waterfalls o n the N orth
H o e o n th e D a b o d e igh F rc , urh m r r
o s h o no t o y o Y rkshire river . T ey ccur nl al ng the main
s b ut o n o stream , the becks that plunge d wn the
o s s o of narr w transverse dale , me them amid scenes Of
o u o s w nderf l beauty . Am ng them , perhaps becau e Of ’ s s no Turner painting, Aysgarth is be t k wn . Here the
o o ov Of Ure , already a full br ad stream , p urs er a series
26 KS I YOR H RE , NORTH RIDING
o SO the s ft shales have been eaten away, that the edge
s o o Of the fall pr j ects far bey nd the base . the Tee s and the E s k and a few becks that
o ff o burst thr ugh the cli barrier Of the eastern c ast , all the rivers Of the No rth Riding find their way int o the
S O to Ouse, and the Humber .
o o to The Tees , Of which the right bank nly bel ngs
ffo s its o the riding, a rd in upper c urse as beautiful river
o s scenery as any in England . Des late and bare at fir t , ' the surrounding c ountry beco mes finely wo o ded l o wer
o o ne o d wn , and , till reaches the busy industrial regi n ,
o s o presents a successi n Of exqui ite views . Thr ugh the
F o C o s o for o alc n lints , a fam u hunting gr und b tanists ,
Fo o Co th ers to n and High rce, past R maldkirk and
o o o o s to o thr ugh R keby w d Piercebridge , is the m st
s o interesting tretch . At the ancient t wn Of Yarm it C receives the Leven , draining the leveland plain . The river by Tho rnaby and Middle s brough and South Bank fl ows through a wonderful indu s trial regio n ; a s o ne h o o mall area , but in w ich half the p pulati n Of the
o Bald e rsd al e o riding finds w rk and wages . In , thr ugh
o o o s to s i s which the Balder fl ws ver hard r ck the Tee ,
‘ th e hu e o o o M g reserv ir, alm st a lake , fr m which iddles
its brough Obtains excellent water .
E s k o o n S o The , c llecting the drainage high t ckdale
Mo o out to s e a . r , has carved a deep dale the at Whitby
o o Thr ugh this natural pathway, r ad and railway climb
o to S o so for acr ss the plateau t kesley and Yarm , that
o o o . many miles river , r ad , and railway j urney t gether The river follows the lin e of a great di sl o catio n of the WATERSHED RIVERS 27 r o cky layers by which the hills to the n orth have been depressed ; and at Gro sm o nt it fl ows over the basalt
n o dyke Sp o ken Of in the secti o n o Geol gy .
or o on The headwaters Of the Ure , Y re , are the
o o western b rder , quite near the cleft in the limest ne o carved out by the Eden . After turning sharply r und
H a e s o n th e U re w ,
Shunno r F fl o o W Great ell the river ws thr ugh ensleydale ,
o o o l cl sely acc mpanied by r ad and rai way , until , in the
M o it o s to S plain near yt n , c nverge the wale . It then
o o takes an ther name , the Ouse , and f rming part Of the
o o s Ains o s uthern b undary enter the ty Of Y rk . The little market t own Hawes i s th e chief in its upper c ourse ; 28 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
thence , giving an endless variety Of fine river scenery,
i ts o it passes B ainbridge with R man camp , Aysgarth,
VVensl e o om y , diminished in imp rtance fr the time when
v i ts to o M it ga e name the wh le vale, iddleham , where the castle of the King - maker frowned over against that
S o M o for its S Of the cr pes and asham , fam us eptember
S e mm e t W ate r
of a sheep fair . One its tribut ries , the little riv e
o o l —o Ad d l eb orou h Bain , expands at the f t Of f at t pped g
1 6 o s Semm e r ( 5 4 ft high) int a mall lake . This is Water — a curious name c o mp o unded of three wo rds meaning
s ea mere water— o o water, , , the nly real lake ccurring in
the riding . — The Swale the s ources Of which are where the l o fty WATERSHED RIVERS 29
High Seat and Nine Standards Rigg blo ck the western — end Of the narro wed valley runs through the wildest
and m o st secluded Of the great dales to Richm o nd .
o no o o After Richm nd the river, l nger a brawling m untain
o o o stream cl sely c nfined by deep ridges Of fells , fl ws
o o languidly thr ugh the pr ductive plain , gathering, by
o means Of feeders like the Wiske , the n rth drainage Of
o M o o the Vale Of Y rk . uker and Reeth am ng the m un
o M o o n o o tains , T pcliffe and yt n the plain , are ther t wns
o n the river .
o The Derwent , which c llects mainly by means Of its greater feeder the Rye the drainage Of a wild m oo rland
tract and Of the Vale Of Pickering, rises in the eastern
oo o to s e a F o or m rs quite cl se the . ailing h wever ( ceasing)
to o ff o o break thr ugh the cli barrier, it fl ws thr ugh
— oo Fo the deep and densely w ded rge Valley, past Hackness
o o n C s and Ayt n , till the level called the arrs it turn
to o westward f rm the b oundary with the East Riding .
o n s o It receives the Rye , which hi t ric Helmsley and
o o o Rievaulx stand , fr m the Hamblet n Hills , fl ws by
M o S o e o alt n , and at tamf rd Bridge leav s the riding bef re
o it reaches the Ouse . The river scenery thr ugh the
How ard ian Hill s b el ow M o . alt n is very fine . Only a o S sh rt distance separates calby Beck , which enters the
s e a two o S o o o miles n rth Of carb r ugh , fr m the Upper “
. n Derwent A new cut , carryi g Off the surplus waters
o o to Of the Derwent in time Of fl d , has been made the
beck . Ge ol ogi s ts tell us that N o rth Se a ice o nce o ver
rOd e o oo the eastern c ast . There are clear pr fs that at o ne time an ice wall cl o sed the exit fro m the Vale Of 3 0 S - YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Pickering eastward . The drainage fro m the m oors therefo re filled the Vale and had to find passage west to ward the Ouse . The gap at Malt o n through which the o t Derwent fl ws was hus made .
6 l . Ge o ogy .
Study Of the geology Of a district should teach u s h o w the land has been built and Of what material it is m h ade . It s ould explain to s ome extent h ow the l o fty
w o wh fells in the est came int being , and y , half a mile
o s e a- is o o o ab ve level , f und limest ne that was f rmed
o an s e a fr m shells dropped up o n the fl oo r Of ancient . It should Sho w us why c o al is absent and iro n present in the c o unty ; and we Sho uld learn from it no t a little
o o fo r i s d o o s c ncerning the s il , this depen ent up n the r ck
o o bel w fro m which it has been f rmed . Lastly we should learn s o mething Of what t oo k place l o ng befo re ’ h the peri o d Of man s advent o n th e eart .
V to f o o r to one A isit the clif bulwark Of the c unty, Of
fo r o the many ledges (at Aysgarth , instance) ver which
s o us o o the rivers tumble, h ws that the r cks f rming the
o not o structure Of the c unty are arranged , in a dis rderly
or s o o s heap , but in beds layer . These layers the ge l gi t
s n t o o o call strata . They are o Often f und in a h riz ntal
o o o o o p siti n , th ugh at the time Of their f rmati n they
S o o r o usually had a level surface . l w sudden m vements Of ’ u : the earth s cr st have Often tilted the layers thus , in the
o o s o so N rth Riding the layers bend t wards the uth , that , GE OLOGY 3 1
o to o as we travel n o rth al o ng the c ast Redcar , the r cks n that are Spread to view are ever Older . B egin ing with the chalk cliffs at Flamb o rough we meet the earlier
o to o to series till we c me the L wer Lias , the shales and sandst o nes at Redcar . How the changes have c o me ab out we may under stand by n oticing how a drying and therefo re shrinking apple becomes c overed with w rinkles . The earth itself
oo S O is c ling and shrinking, and pressure is being exerted
o o o o o o ne up n the r cky crust , f rcing it int f lds as might
o o ne a tablecl th . The Pennine Range is the summit Of great wrinkle formed by pressure fro m east to west : the N o rth Riding is part Of the eastern p o rti o n Of this great
o r o o r anti c li ne . arch d me , as it is called Sometimes th e pressure was s o great that the strata
no t o o o r o were nly f lded up d wn , but were actually bro ken acro ss s o that the layers were no l o nger c o n
tinuou s —"or aults . The greatest Of these cracks f as — they are called in our c o unty is al o ng the Pennine
o n ridge . Here the layers the; west have been pushed
o o n th many th usand feet ab ove th o se e east . Over the Westm orland b o rder the r o cks bel ong to the divisi o n — called in the table Silurian S O termed fro m the name of the British tribe inhabiting the Welsh district where the divisi o n appears m o st ; in the N o rth Riding they bel o ng — to o C o o o r o o . the L wer arb nifer us , c al bearing, divisi n We m ay c o nsider the riding as a huge bl o ck fault sunk
o o s o o n fr m the r ck adj ining the west .
o o E sk An ther fault ccurs at the m o uth Of the . This Eskdale fault h as raised 20 0 feet the layers s outh o f 3 2 S E T YORK HIR , NOR H RIDING
o ne ff Whitby, where may easily examine the di erent layers in the cliffs ; the east pier is built on alum Shale hard Upper Lias that fro nts the s e a with a rugged scar
— on o o the west pier is sandst ne . An ther and a very
’ o n o i interesting fault is at Staithes . The cliffs Opp s te sides Of the little harb our sho w beautiful but quite
C avi ti e s i n B utte rtub s P as s
ff o . di erent secti ns Of strata The signal cliff, Penny
on h as o Nab , the east , under its later c vering hard shale
o o Co o n and ir nst ne ; in lburn Nab , the west , we find beds Of l o o s ely c ompacted sandsto ne c o ntaining many
o s f ssil .
Th e o o o r cks Of the Pennine sl pe bel ng, as we have
T h e B ri d e s to n e n , Th o r to n Dal e GEOLOGY 3 5
SO far fro m their place Of o rigin . many are these
o s b ulder , great and small , that in places they are
for : m o n fo r gathered paving in Rich d , instance , the hard c o bbles that c o ver th e streets are granite lumps
o Stainm o o r transp o rted l o ng ago d o wn Swaledale fr m . This bending Of the strata by which the c o al measures
o o o have been w rn away is , as regards m ney, m st
r a o unlucky fo o ur c ounty . The cc mpanying sketch Sh ows ro ughly what the result h as been : a deep cutting fro m Durham to the West Ridi ng wo uld Sh ow that the
D N Ri Ri . n urh am di ng W . di g Later (1 8 008 118 of clay : and sand stones N Ri d ing sp read d irec tly Present surfac e from N to 8
Rac ks old er than those of th e Carboni ferous Series
H o w th e N o rth R i di n g l o s t i ts c o al
N o rth Riding now o ccupies an interval in what w as o o o s o nce a c ntinu u field Of c al .
‘ The thickness Of the clay that c overs the plain h as no t f . o r been measured But it must be very great , in s o me places pe ople wh o knew little gebl ogy have b o red
o l o ne o o n of in search Of c a , and such b ring the edge the
l o o Va e Of Pickering, at Wass near Amplef rth , was thr ugh
0 0 — o C 4 ft Of clay B ulder and Kimmeridge lay, a shale
o to o o l bel nging the Upper O lite . On the c ast a so where
o s For the clay is exp sed there is great thicknes . instance, in the artificial cutting on the face Of the Castle Hill at — 3 2 3 6 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Scarb o ro ugh it has a depth of 1 20 ft where it has been
fo r scarped the new marine drive . In the eastern half Of the c o unty are r o cks fo rmed
o C o o m re recently than the arb nifer us . These are called in the table Jura s sic : Of these ro cks the No rth Riding
s o as has the greate t area in England . They c ver a v t ,
C o nearly circular tract including the leveland , Hamblet n ,
How ard i an and Hills and the Vale Of Pickering, and are
to o 00 0 d o estimated be ab ut 3 ft eep . They are m st imp o rtant fo r us ; fo r one Of the smaller divi si o n s Of the
s th e M o o o o d Juras ic , iddle Lias , c ntains the ir nst ne w rke fro m Staithes and Skinningrove inland to Esto n Nab ’ o o o o to and The Upper Lias , fr m R bin H d s Bay Whitby
to o s o o e t inland R eberry T pping, c ntains alum and j
s o no w shale , but the e are Of little imp rt .
o i s o s The L wer Lias seen in fine exp sure at Redcar, ’ S S h s o o o altburn , and tait es , but e pecially at R bin H d s
s s o l ow Bay . Here the car exp sed at water exhibit the ro cks Of thi s divi si o n nearly to th e l owest ; and even
o o o s o Of this , b ulders t rn fr m the unken reefs are s me
o - o s n o times thrown ash re . The flat t pped height rth Of the Vale Of Pickering are o f Oolitic sandst one ab ove
: o 1 8 o the Lias at Burt n Head ( 4 9 ft) , whence the D ve
o F d i s th e o runs d wn arn ale , greatest elevati n Of the
o Th e m o o O litic in England . re recent r cks in the
o - S o o f th e C n rth east , the New Red andst ne leveland ' o o s to area , c ntain the dep its that have giv en rise the
salt industry Of Cleveland . We have sp oken s o far of ro ck s laid d own in level s o of e o o heets under water , fr m the detritus Old r r cks b rne S uamw s s C HA RA CT E RS o r Roc
M e tal Age De pos its N e o li th i c Supe rfic ial De posits Palae o h thic Glacial Crome r S e rie s We b ourne Crag hi l e s ford and Norwi h ra s Sands chiefl Pli oc ene C c C g y Red and Wal ton Crags Coralline Crag Mi oc ene Abs e nt from Britain Fluviomarine Be d s of H ampshire B agshot Bed s Lond on Clay Clay s and Sand s c b iefl ve n e d s Wool wic h and Re ad in Old ha B , g Thane t Sand s "rou s G p Chalk Uppe r Gree nsand and Gault Cretaceous Lo wer Gree nsand Weald Clay H as tings S and s Purb e c k Bed s Portland B e d s Kimme rid ge Clay C orallian B e d s x ford Cla and Ke llawa s Roc k hal e s and stone s and O y y S , S Cornb ras h Oolmc Li me s tones F ore s t M arb le Great O o lite with S tone sfie ld S late I nfe rior O olite Lias— er d d l e and Lo we r Upp , M i ,
Rhaetic Ke upe r Marl s Ke u e r and stone R ed Sand stones and Triassic p S U e r unte r and stone Maris sum and S pp B S , Gy p B unte r Pe b b le B ed s Lower B unte r Sand s tone
M agne sian Limesto ne and S and stone R e d Sap d stones and M arl late S M agne si an Lim e s tone Low e r Pe rmian S and s tone
Coal easure s S and stones hale s and M , S Millstone Grit C oals at top M ountain Lime stone S and s tone s in mid d l e Basal Carb oni fe rous Roc k s Lime s tone and Shale s b
Re d and stone s , De vonian and O ld R ed and S S Shales late s and Lim Devonian s to ne , S stones
ands tone s hales and S , S Thin Lime s tone s
hal es late s S , S , Ord ovi c i an S and s tone s and Thin Lime s tone s
Llanberis Slates
Pre -Camb rian No d e finite c lass ification y e t mad e 3 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
' d o wn by stream s int o great estuaries o r from the shells
o th e s ea Of marine creatures dr pped miles deep into .
h o o o s o o o T ere are, h wever , ther r ck f rmed by the c ling Of m olten matter that has burst through to the surface
o h o t o o s rO fr m the interi r Of the gl be . The e volcanic
to o s o usu being due fire , are called igne u r cks . They underlie the m o re recent ro cks ; b ut in places where the latter have been wo rn away they may fo rm even the
o s o summits Of the m untain . It is p ssible that the whole Of the No rth Riding i s o n the shelf Of hard basalt
S tw o called the Whin ill . In small areas Of great interest thi s fl oo r Of the c ounty makes itself apparent in upper Tees dale the ba s alt has burst through the
Mo o o n C o o o untain limest ne , and the leveland m rs an ther
h as s to o o crack given pas age the igne us ro ck . Al ng the Tees between Cro nk l ey Fell and Mickle Fell the ba s alt
' in its m olten state h as fire d the adj oining lime s t o ne and
o C turned it int white crumbling material . The leveland Dyke in the ea s t i s the l onge s t line of intruding ro ck
o s E s k o s o traced in Britain . It cr sse the river at Gr m nt and stretches thence in an alm o st straight line to the
- he o o o n o t . n rth west , reappeari g bey nd Tees At Gr sm nt
i s w o it like a great wedge ith the edge upperm st , and the sandst o ne that has been shouldered aside i s sc o rched
o and partly melted int a glassy ro ck . In striking c o ntrast to the s e ancient volcanic ro cks are tho se that have been fo rmed in ou r c ounty since the
' s and s and as time Of glaciers . These are gravel such we s e e dep o sited in the N o rth and South Bays at Scar
b o rough and al o ng th e n o rth Cleveland c o ast . NATURAL HISTORY 3 9
ral Hi s o r . 7 . Natu t y
The ge ol ogist fro m his study Of the ro cks is able to
us our o of tell that c unty, like the rest the British Isles , a has been alternately depressed and elev ted . During
o o fo r o o l ng ages it has been bel w water , the c ralline r cks that rise ab o ve the Vale Of Pickering were fo rmed fro m M o g shells in undisturbed water, and the illst ne rit is the c ompacted dust Of Older ro cks that w as dep o sited in an
s e a o o ancient . But als during l ng ages it has been
o th e s ea for of o o raised ab ve , layers r ck like the c al measures o nce c o vering the Millst o ne grit have had time
to Mo o a o to o weather away . re ver , as many f cts g pr ve ,
o — a o there was a peri d many centuries g , indeed , but — late in the hist o ry Of the glo be when ou r c o untry h ad
a climate as c old as that Of Greenland . Why this was
S O not o o o e is certain ; but we kn w, fr m the b uld rs
of o th e strewn amid the clay the plains , fr m great — scratches o n the ro cks high o n the shoulders Of the — Cleveland Hills for example and fro m the curi ous c o urse
o Of the Derwent , that much Of the riding was nce ice c overed and that sl ow - m ovi ng glaciers gro und their w ay
o acr ss the land . — ”— D uring this ice age the Glacial Peri o d little
o r o our animal plant life c uld exist in land , but here “ o n and there , high up the hills , are rare alpine plants ,
o o o o surviv rs Of the scant vegetati n Of this c ld peri d . — field s s o to As the ice l wly receded , the land was res cked
o Co F r fr m the ntinent . o the British Isles have no t existed as such fo r any great length o f time as measured 40 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
by geology ; between England and the Co ntinent the s e a is so shallo w that n owhere in D over Straits c ould ’ o ne St C o entirely submerge Paul s athedral . It w uld take but a small difference in s e a- level to make a land
o o o c nnecti n between Britain and the C ntinent . Great Britain and Ireland are examples Of what ge ol ogists call
o s o o to recent c ntinental i lands . They were nce j ined the
o mainland , and animals and plants migrated n rthwards
s ea o as the climate became warmer . When the br ke thro ugh the isthmus that j oined the chalk cliffs Of Kent
to o o f F h ad as s th se rance we already received , a re ult
o f o o no t this migrati n , m st , but all Of the animals and
s o o plant f und in Eur pe . As we might anticipate , Britain
F o r m has fewer species than rance Belgiu , and Ireland
h as n o o o h fewer tha Britain . We sh uld n te , h wever, t at the pre s ervati o n in ou r land Of great tract s fo r hunting purp o ses has given the smaller birds safe breeding
o n m s o places that are denied them the ainland ; that ,
o no t s o ou r w th ugh we have many species , ild birds are pro bably far m o re numerous individually than tho se Of
o Eur pe . Many kind s o f animals and plants have in our ow n c o unty bec o me extinct o r greatly lessened in numbers
o undesirable kinds like the w lf and hyaena , harmless
ro e o o kinds like the red and deer . The beautiful w ds
of ff erne o s Arncli e ( an eagle) , thr ugh which the Esk run
to o s o o s Whitby, were d ubtle s nce a res rt Of thi bird Of
- of prey and Ravenscar ravens , but the eagle and the
o R raven are now rare visito r s to the N rth iding . Ex plo rati o n Of th e rem arkable Kirkdale Cave sho wed that
E C o e t n B gg ll c i g, e mp to n C li ffs NATURAL HISTORY 43
the m ountains as the climate grew warm . There is ano ther n o tewo rthy m ountain plant in a small glen
o o f Ho rc um O ff o called the H le , branching fr m beautiful
wo o o Ne t n Dale , thr ugh which the railway fr m Pickering
Cornur s uec i c a o o to . Is Whitby runs This , kn wn s uth Of the Highlands Of Sc o tland o nly here and in the
C o o S ax ra a Hi reul ur hevi ts . The rare g lden saxifrage ( if g )
o s o o f gr w near the j ining place Black B eck with Balder , ’ and where the limest o ne begins o ne finds the lady s
C ri ed i um Cal eeol us o no t o slipper ( y p p ) , which d es gr w on th e grit .
Semm erw ater o o o , the curi us lake at the f t Of Addle
o o o o o . b r ugh , is an ther pr ductive hunting gr und Here , at s s o o f the end Of ummer, specimen may be f und rare — fl owe rs like the peculiar le s s er bladder wo rt (Utri c ulari a — minor) with i ts keel shaped Spurs o f yell ow fl owers ; and ascending the sl o pes o ne may find the cro w garlic
Alli um vineale s ( ) . In river pa tures near Leyburn the autumnal cro cus is S O plentiful that it makes purple
o n o patches the green . The eastern dales als in many
o o h om as sine F . T cases delight the b tanist Ar und OSS ,
o for a charming fall near G athland , instance , the
o Os mund a re alia i s o h r yal fern ( g ) still plentiful , th ug the
o o hand Of the c llect r has been heavy . — There are no m o re n o ted gro use m oo rs than th o se Of
o Stainm o o r o s Y rkshire , and is fam us in this re pect .
' o no t s o o Th ugh numer us as they are in the East Riding , the s e a birds that frequent the ro cky c o ast n o rth Of
S o o a o carb r ugh are still w nderful sight , especially in
o the breeding seas n , when the cliffs are haunted by 44 S R YORK HIRE , NORTH IDING
o s o - o vast numbers Of guillem t , raz r bills , and ther
h o s o ne ffo species , w se egg at time a rded a regular means o f l o o to o o — s ivelih d pr fessi nal cliff climber .
8 . Al o n h as g t e C o t .
When sp e ak ing . o f the geol o gy Of the No rth Riding we said that the ro ck layers fro m Redcar o nward s are
n o S O o ne v s o o i clined s uthwards , that as tra el n rth fr m ' Filey o r s outh fr o m Redcar different kinds Of l ‘O Ck S
o s o to s o appear . These r ck bel ng the Jura sic divisi n and
no t d d o no t o d o are har like granite . They , theref re , as
Co s ff o s the rni h cli s , break int sharp rugged feature ;
to but still , as they resist unequally the wearing Of water
to o s . and weather, they give much variety the c a t
So me s tand firm against the wearing fo rc es fi m ec hanic al fo rce s like the hammering Of pebble s driven by the
s o r o o s s o wave , chemical f rces causing the l s Of parts luble
— o s ff i s in water ther waste rapidly . The cli wall there
o no o o o o s f re by means m n t n u , and at places like Runs
S o is wick Bay, taithes , and Ravenscar the c ast scenery
to hard equal . The main thing to n o te ab o ut the No rth Riding c o ast is the mighty wall that c o nfro nt s the s e a from l to Fil e o o o Redcar y . I ts c ntinuity is br ken nly where
s o o r o ne o E sk the h rt becks , in case the l nger , break thro ugh the ridge by deep wo o ded glens ; and in o ne place the cliffs rise higher than elsewhere in England .
1 Th e pl ate au that o c c upi e s th e e ast of the c o unty ri se s ab ruptly fro m
th e c o ast. ALONG THE COAST 45
h S o S This is the stretc between kinningr ve and taithes , which reaches in B o ulby Cliff bel ow Lo ftus the great
no t s o o o f 666 . o height ft A grander , th ugh l fty a ’ o o o o o n o mass Of r ck defends R bin H d s Bay the s uth , where the central ridge Of the Cleveland Hill s meets the — s e a o o to . The c ast line fr m the Bay Ravenscar climbs
fo . steeply up this mass , af rding many beautiful views The railway fro m Scarb o ro ugh to Whitby runs cl o se to th e edge Of the cliff wall ; and a traveller is alm o st
o e a t of t - c o nstan t ly in sight f s . stre ches hea her clad — o o — o i n Of l m r, and since deep water is cl se Ships smal
th e and great . But the infinite variety and beauty Of c o ast can be appreciated o nly by a m o re leisurely
o h is ffo o examinati n t an a rded by a railway j urney .
o - o o s no t o to The r ck b und c a t is h spitable shipping . The amazing gro wth Of Middlesbro ugh is partly due to the fact that from the Tees to the Humber there is no
to o e S o o p o rt adapted m dern v ssels . carb r ugh and
W t o fo r o hi by, suitable en ugh small craft , cann t yet
o s fo r to - pr vide facilitie the great steamships Of day, tho ugh in earlier days they were p o rts when Middles
o S br ugh was a deserted and dismal river flat . car
o o C O n tw o b r ugh astle , standing a precipice between . o th e o o bays and accessible fr m land nly by a narr w neck , was placed where it is in o rder to c o mmand the o nly h arb ouf in the s o uth ; and Whitby towards the n o rth ’ o o C Co o was a fam us p rt in aptain k s day, when it sent
o — to —fishin its h me built ships the whale g, ships which had a wide reputati o n fo r staunchn es s and So und wo rk
manship .
ALONG THE COAST 47
S o o But Whitby, like carb r ugh , is handicapped by the
Sal twic k ff o . cli s that flank its appr ach It was at Nab ,
o o o o which pr j ects s uth Of the Abbey r ck , that the h spital ship Kokill e was wrecked during the early m o nths Of ’ s o o o the Great War . Run wick and R bin H d s B ays , beautiful indeed but exp o sed to the s e a and diffi cult Of
o no . access fr m the land , can t attract the trading ship “ ” o for o The l vely little wykes , which the N rth Riding
o o o fo r o c ast is n ted , pr vide excellent Obj ects excursi ns fr om Scarb o rough o r Whitb y but are of Slight u s e to
o W ke o o of the c unty . y is in fact the Y rkshire f rm the
o wife o r to N rwegian creek , whence the Viking sailed
or to ravage settle , and is usually a deep recess backed ’ by high cliffs on the ledges Of which the fish e rm en s
o find o o o h uses precari us f ting . A v oyage al o ng the c o ast fro m Middlesbr ough to
2 to S o o Whitby, 7 miles away, and thence carb r ugh ,
1 ne Fo r s o . 7 miles farther, is an intere ting the first eight miles to the s e a o ne sees everywh ere signs Of the
u to successful str ggle make the Tees a Ship canal . The
a So z — o huge bre kwater , the uth Gare , é miles l ng , is the
o o o o o f o s o m st c nspicu us w rk the Tees C mmi si ners . It “ ” o n Mo o was the drift at the Tees uth , the br ad sandy
s h o s e a tretc thr ugh which sluggish channels entered the , that the men o f Cleveland in their n o rthern Ely made
Co o a camp Of refuge against the nquer r . The marsh is — now reclaimed and great steel wo rks have risen where
o h o the Y rks ire f lk made their stand .
l ow o o The flat Sh re c ntinues till we pass Redcar .
o wa o C s During the wh le y thr ugh the leveland Hill , the 48 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING striking form Of E s t o n Nab and the wo o ds o n Upleatham
s o S ri e steeply fr m the plain ; and at altburn , where
S o s o o o o ' kelt n Beck break thr ugh a deep w ded g rge , the
o ff o s b ld cli wall begins . The c a t here and the c o ast
s o s - Co o M M re rt , Redcar atham , the n rthern argate , arske ,
S to s r and altburn itself, are appendages the indu t ial
o C o its regi n Of leveland , and have gr wn with rapid
o . s of M o gr wth They are sea ide suburbs iddlesbr ugh , “ and are them s elve s being invaded by industry
Co s Redcar and atham have bla t furnaces , and ev en
S o h as fo r o o pretty kinningr ve its pier l ading pig ir n . The m o uth Of Kilt o n Beck here mark s the seaward end
o o o f the ir nst ne .
S o C ff - o ne taithes , past B ulby li , is Of the many queer
o o o s fi shing villages al ng the c ast . Its h u es are perched ’ like martins ne s t s on the Sl o pes Of the cliff and s ub
id en e o s ea to alw a s s c int the seems be v imminent .
is o f s e a— s The name Of the place , in fact , that the wall
— i s s s s . the taithe built aga n t the wave Runswick Bay , o ne o o o Of the m st charming parts Of the Y rkshire c ast , als o h as Its pi ctures que village near a wo o d - sheltered
o o o o s h ll w . It is reached fr m Hinderwell ab ve the cliff
s s by the steepe t Of path .
its o o Whitby and adjunct f ur miles n rth , the little
of S s . village andsend , are delightful place Picturesque
w i ts oo s s s in itself, ith red r f and quaint gable , ne tling under the cliffs and d o minated by the n o ble ruin Of its
on as o Abbey the east , Whitby is beautiful as any t wn
s o o n the Engli s h c o ast . It Stand at the m uth Of the
a o oa a s to Esk , l ng which by rail and r d cces is easy the
5 0 R S YO K HIRE , NORTH RIDING now o o r unded by the marine drive , stands n rth Of the ancient fi shing and trading t own and the fam ous Sp a
its o s with multiple attracti ns , and inland lies a tretch
o o Of fine m rland .
. i n n 9 Coas tal Ga s a d Los s e s . Harb o u r
Wo rk s .
Ge ol o gy teaches us that e v en the hard Mill s t o ne grit
é o f o o and is the d bris Older r cks laid d wn under water ,
o s s that the m untain masse in the we t , half a mile high
w o n e - s s e a in parts , ere at time a newly rai ed bed . We
o tOO of o Se a o kn w, , that much the N rth area was nce dry land o ver which animal s and men cro s s ed from the
Co no s y o r s e a ntinent . There is tabilit either in land in .
o o After the great c nvulsi ns Of the earth ceased ,
o o s o n no t sl wer m vements till went , and they are even
o s s vet ended . In Y rk hire it elf there are places actually menti o ned in hi s t o ry which have di s appeared : Raven
of o o Spur, where Henry B lingbr ke landed , has sunk
o — o o s o bel o w the waters . The l ss the c ast er i n and c o ast depressi o n- ~ in the N o rth Riding has been le s s seri o us than it has been farther s outh ; though at
S s o y to f taithes , which till clings precari usl the clif s , the gro cery sh op in which Coo k served as apprentice in
1 0 s 1 S a 74 has been wa hed away, and in 737 the p waters of Scarb or o ugh were for a time l o st through th e subsiding l f O ff o s of the c if s . At Redcar and the Tees m uth the tree of submerged fo rests have been fo und ; and in excavati on s COASTAL GAINS AND LOSSES 5 1
O ff Middlesbrough peat dep o sits h av e been laid bare in
o which large trees have been embedded . In ther parts
e a S th e firm land has gained o n the s . At altburn during diggings fo r a bridge o ver the beck a beach raised 30 feet ab ove the s ea was unc overed ; the shells were all Cat the Of creatures living since the ice age . On Nab
same bed c ould be traced . The wo rk Of rivers in s haping the land and filling the
o n h sea bed is always going . T ere are great flats b o rdering the Swale and its feeders in the Vale Of Mow bray built u p by the material bro ught by th e streams S fro m the hills . If we visit the wale near Ainderby we can s e e exhibited in miniature what has happened in
o n to h the past a larger scale . The river tries straig ten its c ours e ; o n the i nner part Of the curve the stream runs swiftly and eats away its bank ; o n the o uter
c to urve the sluggish water , unable carry its burden
o farther, dep sits sand and gravel . Man wisely strives to make land and water better fitted fo r his service ; and in the N o rth Riding he d o es
i t o o o f very successfully . Al ng the l wer reach the Tees much that w as o nce neither navigable water no r goo d dry land i s either deep waterway o r d o cks o r suitable sites
fo r o o So o o w rksh ps . me th usands Of acres f what eighty
a o years g were dismal mud flats have been reclaimed , and l o h no w v al u e what was w rse t an useless is Of . And the
r o no w n iver, banked in by huge c ntaining walls , ru s in
1 Thi s val ue won from th e w aters i s d i vi d e d rath e r c uri ous ly ; th e
e e s Co m m ss one rs wh o d o the w ork o bta n h al th e ove n m ent tak e s T i i i f, G r
a uarte and th e o w n e o f th e l and b e h nd tak e s a ua te q r, r i q r r.
COASTAL GAINS AND LOSS E S 5 3
a deep channel through the area where o nce it spread
o itself in four shifting and t o rtu us channels . The strange S curve it made bel o w Th o rnaby has been cut
o now o fo r thr ugh ; and the Tees , nce practically useless ’ i s o ne s o . m dern shipping, Of England great waterways
‘ The c o ntai ning walls are b uil t o f what would o therwise be waste slag and the river at l ow water is c o nfined
t So a o o . within hem . uth Of the w ll reclamati n pr ceeds The entrance to the river is pro tected by the magnificent
So 2 o o f o uth Gare breakwater, % miles l ng , built c ncrete
o o o i ts up n a f undati n Of slag . At extremity the light
o l a o a o — h use f ashes red light t w rds the s uth east , whence
1 3 o o o f entry danger us , a white light t wards the rest the
e a m a o s . It y alm st be said that the p o rt o f Middles brough is the creati o n Of the Tees Co nservancy Com
o o o . missi ners , and their excellent w rk is yet in pr gress
1 0 . Cl i m ate and Rainfal l .
ou o r i s l The climate Of a c ntry district , brief y , the
o o r r average weather Of that c untry dist ict , and it depends
o o o o th e up n vari us fact rs , all mutually interacting ; up n
o latitude, the temperature , the directi n and strength Of
o the winds , the rainfall , the character Of the s il , and the
o to th e pr ximity Of the district sea . The differences in the climates o f the wo rld depend
o o mainly up n latitude, but a scarcely less imp rtant
o o to s e a fact r is pr ximity the . Along any great climatic z one there will b e fo und variati ons in prop orti o n to this 5 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o s pr ximity, the extremes being c ntinental climate
o o o s in the centres Of c ntinents far fr m the cean , and “ ” s s o s e a insular climates in mall tract surr unded by . Co ntinental climates Sho w great differences in s ea so nal
s to a o o temperatures , the winter tending be bn rmally c ld
o W e o f and the summers abn rmally warm , hile the climat insular tracts is characterised by equableness and al s o by
o s s s s o o f greater dampness . Great Britain p s e es , by rea n
o o its its p siti n , a temperate insular climate , and average annual temperature is much higher than might be
o o expected fr m its latitude . The prevalent s uth — westerly winds cause a m o vem ent Of the surface waters
of o ou r o s m— the Atlantic t wards Sh res , and thi war water current is the chief cause Of th e mildness Of our
winters .
Mo st Of Our weather c ome s to us fro m the Atlantic . It would be imp o ssible here within the limits o f a sh o rt chapter to discuss fully the causes which a ffect o r c o ntro l
f to s a c on weather changes . It must su fice y that the
r o i eIth er o o r o di i ns are in the ma n cycl nic anticycl nic ,
s c o m which term may be best explained , perhaps , by
s paring the air currents to a s tream Of water . In a tream a chain Of eddies may Often be seen fringing the m o re
- steadily m oving central water . Regarding the general — n o rth easterly m ov mg air fro m the Atlantic as such a
of o stream , a chain eddies may be devel ped in a belt
its o . parallel with general directi n This belt Of eddies ,
o r o s y s to its o s o cycl ne as the are termed , tend shift p iti n ,
o o ou r s s o s to s metimes passing ver i land , s metime the
o o r o of to n rth s uth them , and it is this shifting that CLIMATE AND RAI NFALL 55
C o c o n m o s t of o u r weather changes are due . ycl nic di ri o ns are ass o ciated with a greater o r less am ount Of
o atm os pheric disturbance ; anticycl nic with calms . The prevalent Atl antl c wm d s largely a ffect o ur island
o in . in an ther way, namely its rainfall The air, heavily
o o o o a laden with m isture fr m its passage ver the ce n , — meets with elevated land tracts directly it reaches ou r
— oo Co th e sh ores the m rland Of Devon and rnwall , Welsh
o o r C n o m untains , the fells Of umberla d and Westm rland — - o and bl wing up the rising land surface , parts with this
To h ow o m oisture as rain . great an extent this ccurs is best seen by reference to the map Of the annual rainfall
o n wh e re it o Of England the next page , will at nce be
o s w n ticed that the heavie t fall is in the est , and that it decreases with remarkable regularity until the least fall
r s o i s reached on ou eastern h res . These western high
o no t o to lands , theref re , may inaptly be c mpared an
o o umbrella , sheltering the c untry farther eastward fr m the rain .
o fh en o o The ab ve causes , , are th se mainly c ncerned
o o in influencing the weather, but there are ther and m re l o cal fact o rs which Often affect greatly the climate Of a
fo r o o o o place , such , example, as c nfigurati n , p siti n , and
o o s il . The shelter Of a range Of hills , a s uthern aspect ,
o o o o a sandy s il , will thus pr duce c nditi ns that may — differ greatly fro m th o se o f a place perhap s at no great — — distance Situated on a wind swept n orthern Sl ope with
o o a c ld clay s il . The Mete o rol ogical Offi ce in L o ndo n c ollects rec o rds
of o n of o temperature , rainfall , directi the wind , h urs Of
5 s S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
But alm o s t as imp o rtant as the high mean annual
. temperature is the fact that the average temperature of
o s o no t o the h tte t m nth , July, is many degrees ab ve, and
o f o o not the average the c ldest m nth , January, many
o fo r Fo r degrees bel w, the average the year . July it is fo r January Thus even in the c oldest m Onth
i s o n o o o the temperature the wh le ab ve freezing p int . We express thi s by saying that the N o rth Riding has a
o r small range Of temperature, that it has an equable “ ” o r o l insular climate . If we c ntrast this insular c imate “ ” o o f M ntre al with the c ntinental climate 9 , we are
o o Mo so ast nished at the difference . Th ugh ntreal is
o h as much farther s uth , yet during January it a mean ° 2 F o r o w temperature Of 5 ahr . , seven degrees bel freezing , and in July pe o ple are sweltering in a mean heat o f
o no t o S O The N rth Riding has , h wever, equable a climate
o of as many ther parts Britain . The Western Isles Of
S o o oo . c tland are warmer in winter, th ugh c ler in summer
M o o ilf rd , which has ab ut the same temperature in s d o ummer , is five egrees warmer in winter , and a sn wfall i s a there a r rity . As the land rises t owards the m oo rlands the tem p e ratu re decreases ; and if we ascend one o f the western
o dales we. may n o te h ow the crops change fro m wheat t o s or o to o s to at barley, fr m barley pasture, fr m pa ture bleak heather o r grass - c overed upland s fit o nly fo r the
o s o m untain heep . Hawes , the chief t wn in upper
o o Wensleydale, th ugh pr tected by the sheltering walls of o o the m untains , has a temperature three degrees bel w
o f S o o On s s n r that carb r ugh . the fell them elves the wi te CLIMATE AND RAI NFALL 5 9 c old is intense and we can well understand why the — cust o m began o f bl o wing a fo rest ho rn as a guide to
at o o of Ad dl eb o rou h travellers . In Bainbridge the f t g
o is o this cust m still maintained during the winter m nths ,
o o s o fo r o o n and with g d rea n , exp sure the uplands
o u o thr gh a winter night w uld very likely mean death .
T h e M o o rs ab o v e H utto n - l e - H o l e
The plateau n o rth Of Pickering gives an o ther illustrati o n of h ow o o o o p siti n affects climate . The s uthern sl pe t owards the su n is alm o st entirely cultivated ; the
o o —o l n rthern sl pe is a dreary heather c vered up and .
Mo o f ou r i s o h st rain , as we have seen , br ug t by the
o o prevailing winds fr m the west , and as the cl uds are fo rced up the m ountain Sl opes th eir m oisture bec om es 6 0 S YORK HIRE, NORTH RIDING
o o c ndensed . The west Of the c unty receives more rain
s o than the ea t , and the highlands m re than the plain .
o o The stati n at Hawes Juncti n , where the railway
I 1 o s o o climbs up 35 feet fr m Wen leydale int Westm rland , has an average rainfall o f 70 inches and this is the rainiest part ; at Guisb oro ugh on the eastern m o o rs it
1 o o o is 3 inches , at N rthallert n in the plain it is nly 26 inches . The rainfall even in the plain is ample fo r agriculture
o o o y b and pasturage , and the cr ps gr wn are limited nl y
of o lack heat . The m nth in which we have the greatest — rainfall as is the case of the greatest part of our islands
— o fo r o is Oct ber . The average fall this m nth at
S o o -1 6 o carb r ugh is 3 inches . April is the driest m nth , yet o h o nly inches less falls t an in Oct ber . The rain is thus spread pretty uniformly throughout the year : in ou r c ountry we can never c ount o n any l o ng successi o n o f s s rainle days . The No rth Riding is no t favoured in the am ount o f
' 1 1 e ar fine r bright sunshine it receives . In 9 4, a y than
o s of o 1 8 1 m t , the number h urs registered was 4 . Yet the number o f h ours during which the sun is ab ove
h o o 0 w no ' the riz n is 445 . Even hen rain is falling the m oisture in the air at times fo rms mists o ver valle y s and m oo rlands ; and where the furnaces p our o ut sm o ke and fumes a darker veil o bscures the sun .
Fogs o ccur during the late autumn and winter . The farmer is fo rtunate in thi s respect that the h ours o f o sunshine c me mainly during the spring and summer ,
o when his crops are growing and ripening . The f gs are CLIMATE AND RAINFALL 6 1 not nea rly s o frequent as in So uth Lancashire no r s o v i o o o o . dense as th se L nd n The keen , bracing east
Ma o winds are very trying in April and y , when they bl w m o re Often than the west winds ; and during the spring
o I o o m nths , except n fav ured sp ts , the weather is bleak and cheerless . It is a matter o f imp o rtance for the fishermen that the No rth Riding c o ast c omes within that regi o n o f our
o two o islands least visited by st rms . The chief st rm
one w o of S o o tracks pass up the est c ast c tland , the ther C up the English hannel . But calm days are rare , and — at times a n o rth easterly gale renders a v oyage al o ng the
o o one c ast a hazard us .
— l l . Pe o l e a l l p R ce , Dia e ct , S e tt e m e nts , P op u l ation .
Pro bably no English c ounty h as been o verrun by
o o f o o m re waves invasi n than has the N rth Riding .
o o s o Brit ns , Anglians , Danes , N rmans , have in succes i n
. NO o f o ruled d ubt , the dif erent races that have pe pled the c ounty have all left traces o f themselves in the lo o ks
o f s o o f and character the pre ent ccupiers the land . But an attempt to decipher these traces wo uld o nly lead to o o pr fitless guessw rk . All we can s ay with certainty i s
o o o o that the Y rkshireman , like ther c mp site races , is a oo o . NO o too o f e g d st ck d ubt , , the fact his living wher
no t to his Nature is very genial , where he has wrest
s o f oo o o to e mean livelih d fr m her by f rce , has helped mak 6 2 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o him the hardy, res lute , and res urceful man he is .
H ow h ow sur great a share race has had , great his
o o o o to r undings , it w uld , h wever, be imp ssible decide .
of of o o to o o In the case much the p pulati n , , n tably
of M o w o in that iddlesbr ugh , the men and men are new- c omers from the iro n districts o f Staffo rd and
o o to Glam rgan , Newcastle and Glasg w, drawn the i ndu s trial area by the in sistent demand for skilled
o s o s o w rkers . Old cu t ms and peculiar dialect are dr wned
oo o f of by the fl d new arrivals . The multiplying means Of travel and th e pro visi o n o f s chools have als o
o o th e d n o f h w rked t wards iminishi g peculiarities , eit er
of o r o o o speech habits . The br ad Y rkshire v wels are still c o mm o n and so are many Of the wo rds derived from
Danl sh for o h h , it is p ssible t at the dwellers in t is n o rthern part of the Dan e law were l o ng a Danish
o out o speaking pe ple . But these are dying , t gether with
o o s o f s o f distinctive cust ms , thr ugh the increa e mean
tfa ellin h as o S s o v g. The time g ne when at taithe every ne
to o s o r s was related every ne el e, at Hawe half the peo ple were Metcalfs wh o had to be distinguished by
nicknames . — The typical N o rth Riding c ountry man o ne would — be over - daring if he tried to characterise the ma ny sided
— — - m an o o n . t wnsman is a hard w rking, clear thinki g He is keen at a bargain but i s genero us in his h o spitality ; he “ ” delights in d ogs (his Yo rkshire tyke ) and h o rses ; he is
o d o f o o — f n Sp rt , healthy, and l ng lived , and is independent
to s o S - is even aggres i n . hrewd and keen witted as he ,
o o o - o o o o he has a v lumin us f lk l re , and s me Strange n ti ns PE OPLE— RACE DIALE CT SETTLE MENTS 6 3
o - o still linger in the l nely farms , perhaps age Old traditi ns ” o f the little men driven ou t by the Celts . I t is to the Danes that many peculiar wo rds even
u s e To is o b o yet in are due . them it wing that the y l ai/es la s l ou s o o lea s rather than p y , p m re ften than p , “ ’ will Sh o w y ou the ganes t w ay after asking wh e e r s tha
3 o ganging til When the r ads are sticky, as Often they
C v cl aes are in le eland , he takes care Of his when walking o c lart o o o s kel ver the y gr und , lest his m ther sh uld p him ,
l arnin to u . thereby g him be heedf l The place names , to o o h ow o o o o , pr ve th r ughly the Danes had c l nised the
o fo r o riding . The distinctive Danish terminati n t wn , “ o no 1 0 0 W by, ccurs less than times , hitby being ” the chief example ; the kirks are numerous ; in the “ ” “ ” “ ” “ o s fo r dales are becks and f ses ; the nab , a
o o o pr minent feature like that at Est n , is a f rm Of the “ a b o r no s Car n . o Danish , e , the flat , ften marshy
o o oo o ki orr gr und c vered with brushw d , is the Old N rse ,
s M C o and appear in uker , the arrs al ng the Derwent ,
F S o and perhaps in Redcar . inkle treet in Richm nd
s is o r o win/eel . and in Thir k the angle c rner street (Dan . )
“ o d o The war g himself, wh se name we perpetuate in
s h as to o Thur day, given name Th rmanby .
o o o 1 1 1 o The p pulati n Of the N rth Riding in 9 , acc rding to the census taken in that year , was this being
o f 1 1 -2 . o n o o o f 1 0 1 an increase per cent the p pulati n 9 . The growth is due alm o st s olely to the small industrial — o o o area in the n rth east c rner , where half the pe ple are s M ma sed . iddlesbr o ugh it s elf has just o ver a quarter
o o o no t Of the wh le and is still gr wing, th ugh with its 6 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o o f rmer startling rapidity . Its estimated p pulati n in
1 1 o f o 9 3 was including that N rth Ormesby,
recently added .
not fo r o o s If it were this p pul us di trict , Of which the S seaside places , Redcar and altburn , may be regarded
' o o as eo l ed as as suburbs , the c unty w uld be sparsely p p
o M o Westm rland . Even including the iddlesbr ugh area
o 1 s o to the Riding has nly 97 per ns the square mile ,
as h o 6 1 8 i ts o whereas England a w le has . Over b rders
h as o o ne o f it Westm rland , the least , and Durham , the
o m st densely peopled o f all the c o unties .
— 1 2 . A ri i n g cu ltu re Ma n Cu lti vatio s , W n k ood l a d , S toc . — Nine tenths of the great area c ov ered by the N o rth
i s o o o o Riding ccupied by farmed land , th ugh the m rland ,
o o n o n b th the Pennine fells and the plateau in the east , i s of small value either for the growing of crop s o r fo r
o o M o o the feeding f St ck . Where the illst ne grit verlies — the lime s t o ne even the black faced m oor sheep fail s to — find pasture : the heath c overed stretch is left to the
s o o grou e and g lden pl ver .
o o But the l wland plain , where the Drift dep sited by ancient glaciers lies thick ab o ve the New Red Sand
o one o f - o w st ne, is the richest grain gr ing districts in England ; and leaving the Vale the c o rnfield s ascend
o un s ome di s tance up the fertile dale c try . Wheat is grown freely up to 40 0 feet (the green - c ol oured p art of
6 6 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
number o f acres under wheat in 1 9 1 5 w as many th ousands 1 1 greater than in 9 3 .
o o o Away fr m the plain , h wever , the farmer empl ys m o st o f hi s land as pasture fo r his st o ck during the
s s o s o r as o to o o e fo r warmer ea n , mead w pr vide f dd r the — winter . In the dales it is dairy farming and s t oc k raising rather than c o rn - growing ; and there i s little doubt that the N o rth Riding farmer will in an even
his o —s o greater degree find pr fit in his live t ck . We glance d own the list o f imp o rt s int o Middles brough and am o ng the rest w e n o te a great am o unt Of Danish butter and bac o n and an a s t o nishing quantity of c o nden s ed M S o . su milk , wiss and ther uch Of this might well be p
planted by h ome pr o duce . Already Our Wensleydale
no t o th e s o cheese , made nly in Ure valley, but al in
o i s o to o o o r the districts ar und , kn wn every ne ; fact rs “ ” badgers as they are nicknamed , regularly visit the
to b uy o o s farms butter and p ultry, bac n and egg ; and the milk s ent by train to the p opul o u s West Riding
o o o f o t wns , under the enc uragement the railway c mpany, is speedily growing m o re in quantity . — The No rth Riding i s a gra s s growing and grazing c o unty as di s tinct fro m an arable c ounty like Cambridge
: tw o o o o shire the n rthern c unties , N rthumberland and
C o o s of umberland , al ne have m re acre what the Agri “ cultural Returns call Mo untain and Heath Land u s ed ” fo r o s o Grazing . One acre in every f ur is thu den ted — in the riding ; the pro p o rti o n in Cambridgeshire a
— 0 0 o great wheat c ounty is o ne acre in 5 . Three c unties o o De o K n o o nly , N rthumberland , v n , and e t , p ssess m re AGRICULTURE— MAI N CULTIVATIONS 6 7 sheep than d o es the No rth Riding : here they are usually “ — - oo o r black faced ( m r sheep) white faced Leicesters .
o o The neighb uring c unty, the West Riding, has a
o f o o greater number cattle than any ther c unty, but the
o no s o number in the N rth Riding is t far h rt . The farmers are eager to impro ve their st o ck and the keenest
Y o rk s hire c attl e at C rak e h all
in o o Few interest is taken the vari us exhibiti ns . things are m o re gratifying to the Yo rkshire farmer than to win a premium fo r his sh o rtho rn bull or his Cleveland bay
— o Yo o at the All England Sh w at rk . The c unty takes
of o f first rank in the rearing pigs , which it has the
e largest whit breed in England . 6 8 S I YORK H RE , NORTH RIDING
o o too o for o - N rth Y rkshire , , is fam us h rse breeding “ i s . s S and training It whimsically aid , hake a bridle ’ over a Yo rkshi reman s grave and he will rise to s teal
o fo r o s o s is a h rse, he l ve h r es and delighted in their
o s M o n expl it . At iddleham the dry limest o ne plateau — ab o ve the Ure are well kn own training ground s 6fo r
C l e v e l an d B ay S talli o n raceho rses ; s o als o are there o n the racing flat s at
M o o o n o andale B tt ms the Tees , at Richm nd , and at “ M o o th e o f . alt n , the Newmarket the N rth In Vale of Pickering valuable carriage ho rses are bred : the
s m Co ach Ho rse So ciety ti ulates the industr y .
S o s o s 1 1 heep, cattle , and h rses h wed great increa e in 9 5
to e The and are likely reach larger figur s s till . increase AGRICULTURE—MAI N CULTIVATIO NS 6 9
o o in the case o f c o rn crops is pro bably nly temp rary . Imp o rted wheat is usually s o cheap that the Engli sh grower
o cann o t sell at prices that pay . He is tr ubled with a
o o f o fo r o h sh rtage lab ur, the large t wns and igher wages
o o o attract the c untry w rker . Even bef re the war the Sh o rtage was felt in the N o rth Riding and it is b ound
o no o t be intensified w . The farmer is theref re impelled
to o fo r o the kind f farming that calls less lab ur .
h o o The c ief c rn cr p in the riding is barley, but the
area under o ats is no t much less . The wheat area is
t o o f li tle m re than a third that barley . Turnips and
o o o fo r swedes are by far the largest r t cr ps , the area
o o o C o o p tat es being nly a quarter . l ver and ther grasses
o o c ver alm st as many acres as barley . These latter
o o o o cr ps have , as will be n ted , a direct bearing up n st ck rearing ; turnips c o nstitute a large part Of the winter
o o of o o o f the o o f d sheep and cattle , and a p rti n p tat
o o o fo r o f cr p is c mm nly used pigs , which nearly every
o o farmer keeps a large st o ck . It Sh uld perhaps be n ticed that the acreage o f land fro m which a crop o f grass was taken Sh owed a decrease in 1 9 1 4 ; but the very dry April and May of that year fo rced the farmer to dev o te a greater area o f his land than usual to grazing . Other crops like beans and peas are o f Slight imp o rt n a ce . The small share o f bright sunshine is against — much fruit growing and no t many acres are utilised fo r o A . for the purp se pples are the chief fruit , and even
' o f s n 0 0 o h as these the number acres is les tha 5 . Dev n o ver S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Wo o dland at on e time must have c overed a great — o f to o o f stretch the riding , and day the l wer ends the
s on oo M dale and the glens the east are well w ded . uch s ound timber i s available near Richm o nd in the wo o ds o f Co o Fo nstable Burt n , near Pickering, and in rge
o to o i s o f rea Valley . The N rth Riding the land g t
fo r s o o f 2 parks . There is , in tance, Dunc mbe Park 345 acres and Castle H o ward Park of and these have
th e of oo is no o many fine trees . But area w dland m re
4 th o f o : s th e o than 2 4 the t tal area tract like f rmer
— o o f s th e Fo o f Gal tres o hunting gr und the king , rest , n rth — “ of Yo rk Gaul tree fo rest Shakespeare calls it in — Henry I V have been quite cleared Of timber .
1 3 . Ind u s tri e s and Man ufactu re s .
How s o great a mi f rtune, financially speaking, the No rth Riding h as suffered by the planing away of i ts c o al measures may be realised by c o ntrasting the p opulati o n Of the c o unty with that o f the districts n o rth
o tw o o f and s uth . Durham and the West Riding are — the m o st densely pe opled c o unties ; the No rth Riding i s one o f C s the Sparsest . The leveland indu trial area it s elf is in a manner but an appanage o f the Durham
o —field Fo r of M o w as c al . the site iddlesbr ugh selected — befo re the wo rking of Cleveland iro n o re had really
o f s o begun , and the multitude industrie dependent up n cheap iro n and steel are s till fed by the c o al and c o ke
o o fr m Durham c llieries . INDUSTRIE S AND MANUFACTURES 71
o o f o f By reas n this lack easily Obtained fuel , what
o o o is kn wn as industry, distinct fr m farming, is alm st
o to o ne t c nfined small area . But hat industry, the — s melting o f iro n ore and the manufactures due to cheap
o o ne C ir n , is a very great . In the leveland area is smelted o ver a quarter Of the whole o utput o f the United
o i s o u afitit o Kingd m , that , ab ut twice the q y pr duced
S o is o n in all c tland . The smelting carried mainly at
M o o So iddlesbr ugh , but furnaces are in blast als at uth
o s o S bank , Th rnaby, Redcar , and as far uth as kin nin ro e s i i g v . The e blast furnaces with their m n ature
o f not s s hills Slag may be picture que , but they are igns o f o o f strenu us activity in the service man . How great that service is we may ro ughly measure b y n o ting the increase in value as the o re bec o mes
fo r C o re nearer the thing wanted use . The leveland at
s ou t the mine , the greyi h green lumps hewn Of the hills
o o r o o i s o 5 o n to n t . at Est n B sbeck , w rth 5 . a A Of pig
o o o o o f o re s 2 1 0 5 ir n made fr m ab ut three t ns sell at £ . In the wo rks this bec omes transfo rmed int o Ship plates
6 1 s o r s 6 1 0 s o r o at £ . 5 . , teel rails at £ . . , b iler plates at
1 s e o . s M £7 5 . And when , till in iddl sbr ugh , the steel beco mes in o ne o f the three shipbuilding yards part Of
o f s its o o and the structure a fine ve sel , w rth is d ubled
trebled .
S not o s to melting is the primitive pr cess it u ed be . At Middlesbrough have been devi s ed impro vements in the building o f the furnaces and in the treatment o f
o re o o the that have greatly cheapened pr ducti n . Only — ab out o ne third of the fuel is now used that was needed 72 Y KS H OR HIRE , NORT RIDING
1 8 1 s o re in 5 , when the first furnace were erected . The i s first calcined o r ro asted in Steel kiln s with the result that much m oisture and carb o nic acid gas is expelled
1 0 0 o to o 0 o re now and t ns are reduced ab ut 7 . The , dark
r e d o o i s o ut o o in c l ur, drawn int charging barr ws . a
B l as t na e s M e s b o Fur c , iddl r ugh
The furnace it s elf is a remarkable s tructure between “ ” 8 0 1 0 0 o o i s and feet high . At the b tt m the well
o o o s i s o f fire— where the m lten ir n c llects . Thi built brick lumps ab o ut 3 feet thick and is b o und t ogether by “ ” st out steel j acket plates so that the pre s sure within
n s o may o t bur t the building . Thr ugh the well are
74 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
I o o o C o c nversi n int steel , and leveland ir n in which there i s o o o s s fo r o much ph sph rus was theref re usele this purp se .
w o o re o C . N , fine steel is made fr m the leveland — Apart fro m ir o n making and the o ccupati o ns to
th o which it is handmaid , manufactures in e N rth Riding — a o f o o are slight imp rtance . There is s me linen weaving at o rth all erto n h as s o o Yarm and at N , which al a lin leum
l Pi o T h e S tapl e Pro duc t o f C l e v e an d . g ir n
o o o is o fact ry . A little c tt n spun at Osm therley and at
ll e r o nshire o l o s Bro mpto n in A t . N rthal ert n make leather
s o M s o go o ds and m o t o r car . Ir n in the iddle br ugh area
o f o o so and farming in the rest the c unty are , h wever,
s o s far fir t that the ther are negligible .
s - Some mino r industrie have vanished . Lead smelting has left Swaledale and the alum industry h as migrated INDUSTRIES AND MANUFACTURES 75
lfield s o f s o to the c o a . The hand knitters Hawe c uld
no t o — persist against machine h siery . Kelp getting and burning o n the Cleveland c o ast no l o nger pro vides a
o f miserable subsistence . Whitby as a centre the whale
o o o f o o now fishery was the last str ngh ld w den ships , superseded by the larger and m o re eco n o mical steel — o f s . o o o for vessels Tees ide The p rt , nce fam us vessels
o f go o d wo rkmanship like that in - which Captain Co o k
now s o sailed , merely undertake repairs ; th ugh if the navigati o n o f the Esk were impro ved a shipbuilding
s o o w indu try might revive . In c nnecti n with the hale — fi shery o f Whitby an interesting d o mestic indu s try the
o f — was o n o S o making stays carried at L ftus . ailcl th — and whale b o ne purchased fro m Whitby were made int o articles s o durable that they were handed d o wn fro m
o to as o o o o m ther daughter heirl ms . This ccupati n has
o s o vanished bef re the march o f m o dern fa hi n .
1 n an Mi n e ral s . 4 . Mi e s d
But fo r the pres s ure that l o ng ago raised its r o cks
o o int a mighty arch the N rth Riding , as we have seen ,
ou o s o f o . w ld have had rich dep its c al As it is , the layers o f c o al have been weathered away and the c o unty S no t o . is well end wed with mineral wealth till , the iro n o re of the Cleveland Hills i s so me c o mpensati o n fo r
o of o th e s o the l ss c al , and alt wells and lime and st ne
o f quarries are value . 76 Y S ORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Other minerals there are but they cann o t be pr ofitabl y
o s o w rked . There are still lead mine near Richm nd , but the cheapnes s o f the imp o rted lead has caused the o nce pro mising i ndustry Of lead - s m el ting to disappear fro m
S M s o waledale . any de erted hamlets al ng the Swale are witnes s es o f the fact that unles s fuel i s readily Obtain
o o f o o n o s able the reducti n res will take place the c a t .
to o o f s o o Alum mining and burning, , was me imp rt
s ance during the seventeenth century , when hundred Of tho u s and s o f p ound s were s unk in the wo rking o f mines
o o - o o al ng the n rth east c ast , where the alum ccurs in the
s F o Ke ttl ene s s to Upper Lia layer . r m Whitby there are
o f o s s o f still ugly traces the excavati n , and heap burnt
d i sfi ure ff o — Shale g the cli s . We are t ld that alum mining ’ C s was begun in lev eland during Elizabeth reign . The Lo rd o f Gui s b o rough had n o ticed in his travels that the vegetati o n in the regi o n where the P o pe had a m o n op oly o f alum mining was o f the same vivid green c ol our as o n his e s tate ~and o , smuggling away miners fr m Italy he
o s now began the industry in Y rk hire . It has vanished to alfiel e the c o d s in th search after cheaper fuel .
s o o s o . Jet al is f und in the ame r cks , the Upper Lias
Its s o f s fo r o mining mu t be immen e antiquity, in s me o f the barro ws o n the hills j et o rnaments have been
’ o C o o o f s f und , and aedm n , the peasant p et Whitby, refer
i s s to the mineral in his p o em . The hard variety perhap
o s oo h as s s o o . a timber f s il , w d that been pre ed int st ne f It o ccurs in thin layers and is wo rked with great di ficulty . “ ” s h as Thi real j et a fine grain , is very durable , and may
s Mo o f be delicately carved and highly p oli hed . st that MINES AND MINERALS 77 still carved and Offered fo r sale in the Whitby sh o ps is a s o fter imp o rted material .
o f o e The Obtaining salt , an ther very anci nt industry 0 0 still empl o ys ab o ut 5 men in the Cleveland district .
o s o not The dep its are here deep d wn , near the surface
C i s w on o i ts as in heshire, and the salt fr m place under the
as m o re recent alluvium by being pumped up brine . The bed s were pro duced by the evap o rati o n o f ancient ’ o o o f s seas detached by s me m vement the earth s cru t ,
of Co and they must be immense age . untless ages must have pa s sed after the c o mpleti o n o f the salt bed befo re a tho usand feet o f ro ck were dep o sited over it
and , after successive upheavals and subsidences , it
reached its present level .
o o re i s o Ir n , , h wever , by far the first mineral . This ,
to o o o a o s , has been w rked l ng g , perhap even by the “ — ancient men wh o dug the hut circles o n the Cleveland
o o s to o o e o m r . It has been mined any n tew rthy ext nt nly
1 8 0 o Mr o Since 5 , when a great ir nmaster , J hn Vaughan ,
o o o o o o f und ir nst ne near Est n Nab . The w rkable ir n s t o ne is a dep o sit o ver ab out 2 0 0 square miles between
E s k s o in M s the and the Tee . It ccurs the iddle Lia ,
o nOd ul e s s being f und in lumps ( ) and in bed , thin at the
o c ast , but increasing in thickness inland . The bed is cut thro ugh by Skelt o n B eck near Saltburn and a fine
o o S o exp sure made . The mines extend fr m kinningr ve
o o o S o oo westward past L ftus , Br tt n , kelt n , B sbeck
a o o o (where a few years g a great subsidence t k place) ,
to o o F o o n o o Guisb r ugh . arther s uth , high the m rs at
o o o re o e : oc c R sedale , a magnetic ir n is w rk d this urs in 78 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
the O olite do gger (a l o cal name fro m the hard sto nes
s it co ntain ) . The Cleveland iro nst one is not a high grade o re : it
o o s to o o ne to n of - o takes ver three t n pr duce pig ir n . It is therefo re much cheaper than the fo reign o res bro ught int o Middle s bro ugh : that fro m Algeria o r fro m Swed e n
h n o n o re an d e s to n e F o o d fo r t e fur ac e s . Ir lim
o s s o 1 to n ton o f C o re o s c t ab ut £ a , a the leveland c ts o o 5 o o nly ab ut 5 . The disp sal Of the great am unt Of
s o r o o re o to th e refu e , slag, fr m the is a great pr blem
o s So o n ir nma ter . me ha v e tipped the slag the waste
s so o o mud bank and made acres Of s lid land , s me pile
o o f o e en out up small m untains it , and s m have it tak MINE S AND MINERALS 79
o o Se a o . int the N rth and dep sited it there The slag ,
o to u s e . o h wever , can be turned It may be run int — o s o fo r ou r m ulds and make the paving setts tram lines , o r may be gro und up and mixed with cement to fo rm “ ” o r o s o o paving flags , , again , may be made int lag w l which is used fo r non - c o nducting linings o f refrigerating chambers .
There i s an abundance Of go o d sto ne in the c o unty . In Upper Teesdale the hard volcanic ro cks Of the Whin
o S o o o st ne ill , and near G athland and Great Ayt n th se of C M o the leveland Dyke are quarried . The illst ne grit
o has several goo d beds of buildi ng st o ne . The St ne
o o o m st quarried , h wever, is the magnesian limest ne . Lime needed fo r the wo rking o f iro n o re is Obtained near Skinningro ve (it i s the presence o f iro n and lime t ogether that has established the iro n wo rks in this
o i s pretty place) , Leyb urne , and Pickering . Gannister quarried o n the m o o r east . o i Co mm o ndale : this is a
o o i s f hard , white , c mpact sandst ne that una fected by
s for o f t s fire and is much u ed the insides S eel furnace .
1 . Fi s h e ri e s and F i s h i n a i 5 g S t t o ns .
The s e a fisheries o f Britain have fro m very early
b o o o as oo fo r days een l ked up n a splendid sch l seamen ,
o f o o for our o C as a kind f undati n naval p wer . ertainly in the Great War ou r fishing t own s have d o ne admirable
No service . t o nly did a multitude Of recruits j oin the
o ed c a Wh Sc o o Navy, fr m R r, itby, arb r ugh , and even 8 0 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
S s o of little taithes , but al many the trawlers and their
s o crew entered g vernment service . They left the peace
ful s s e a gathering Of the harve t Of the and , in the
- s Dardanelles and elsewhere , became mine sweeper and
o s its ff s transp rts , thu helping the Navy in di icult ta k .
Fo r s o me centurie s Brit ain has been ea sily firs t/ in
its o i s s the fishing industry, and Old pred minance till
o f s s s maintained . The number and Size the ve el , the
o o f s o o f o o am unt their catch , and the c pe their perati ns
o F o ou r are steadily gr wing . ish figures largely am ng
o s 1 1 s ou t o o o s exp rt . In 9 3 we ent ver fi v e milli n p und
o o f o r w rth cured salted herrings , Germany buying the
is s o s s s . large t am unt , Ru ia the next large t The herring
o o o f o ur oo s s o much the m st imp rtant f d fi hes , but we al
o c o d s o s . exp rt much , pilchard , mackerel , and hadd ck Of
o s o o ff o m t f dstu s , bread and butter and meat , we pr duce far le s s than we need at h ome ; but in peaceful time s w e s l fish o F o s o s o f . e l quantitie abr ad r m Grim by , Yarm uth , and Hull fish i s carried no t o nly to the Mediterranean and
o to o s as O ff as B altic p rts , but c untrie far the Argentine
Th e t o o s i s Republic . ca ch landed at N rth Riding stati n ,
o o fo r h wever, retained at h me ; an excellent railway service carrie s it speedily to a ready market al ong the
Tee s and in the cr o wded West Riding .
o s o fish Herring and mackerel , unlike m t ther , are no t taken thro ugho ut the year . The herring appear in sh o al s Off Wick in May and m ove sl o wly s o uthward .
to O ff S o o In July they begin arrive Whitby and carb r ugh , and in Augu s t and September en o rm o us catches are S o s being landed in the No rth Riding stati ons . The c tti h
8 2 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
’ o o S o oo c me in rder Whitby, taithes , Redcar, R bin H d s
. no t Bay, and Runswick But we must imagine that any No rth Riding stati o n h as anything appro aching the
o o f o f o r o o r am unt business Grimsby Yarm uth Hull .
o o o Int Grimsby, the greatest fishing p rt in the w rld twenty times m o re fish i s bro ught than int o Scarb o rough ;
o o o o o s Yarm uth f ll ws cl se up n Grim by, and Hull lands
o half as much as Yarm uth .
o s o f ou r o It is a curi us fact , and characteri tic c untry, t hat our G overnment Spends le s s m o ney o n the fisheries
o o — o o than any ther fishing c untry N rway, H lland ,
o r F Denmark , Germany, rance . Yet British fisheries are m o re valuable than tho se of all the rest of Eur o pe
o put t gether . The east c o ast o f England prep o nderates greatly over w th e o i s the est in fisheries . One reas n that the
o h Se a o o o n s N rt is c ler than the waters the we t , and the
—fis o foo d h are as a rule th o se living in c lder water . An o ther rea so n is that the shall ow parts Of the o cean
oo fish o s o c o o o n fl r , where the m tly feed , are m re mm n
o o the eastern than on the Western sh res . The D gger Bank and much of the rest o f the N o rth Se a fl oo r is one
s o o n o great fi hing gr und , but the Atlantic side the cean
fish o o rapidly deepens , and are b th less numer us and
s less ea y to catch .
o is not of This latter advantage , h wever, much ac t ount o s fo r o f fish n waday , half the landed in Britain
e a s are caught in waters beyo nd the N o rth S . The li t Of fi shing regi o ns sh own in the G overnment rep o rt includes area s o f the o cean Stretching fro m the White FIS HERIES AND F ISHI NG STATIONS 8 3
Sea to o of Mo o o the c ast r cc , and these areas are as acce s sible fro m Fleetwo o d as from Scarb o rough . The meth o ds Of catching fish have of late bec o me s o very effective that it seemed likely the supply would
to o e o begin fail . Regulati ns wer theref re made , mainly with a view to the pro tectio n o f the eggs and yo ung of
o so o wo the vari us kinds , that m re uld reach maturity , and these regulati o ns seem to be quite successful in pre
fish o it o serving the . In the N rth Riding is the N rth Eastern Se a Fisheries Co mmittee that enfo rces the rules
to o of its and tries help the fisherman , and f ur members
o o o are n minated by the C unty C uncil . — Over three fo urths Of the fish landed are caught in
o trawls , great nets that are dragged al ng the feeding
o o of gr unds in the shall w parts the sea . Herring and
o mackerel are caught in drift nets , which hang fr m the
o of o surface in fairly deep water acr ss the path the sh als . Line fishing is n owadays empl oyed o nly fo r the larger fish like c o ngers and c od : it acco unts for lit tle m o re — o ne o our o than f rtieth Of t tal catch . In the larger
o S o o fishing stati ns like carb r ugh the steam trawler , the — s s e a o a th e o I i c fine t b t in w rld , s qu kly superseding the sailing smack .
o f o o The inland fisheries are little imp rtance, th ugh there are s o me fam o us angling streams like the E s k
o no ab ve Whitby . But t any are so well st ocked as to
to oo justify an attempt make a livelih d by angling . 8 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
1 6 . S h i i n an Tr p p g d ad e .
M o i ts So iddlesbr ugh, with appendage uth Bank , transacts nearly all the fo reign trade o f the N o rth
i s to s a . o o a Riding That y , the f reign trade, th ugh gre t
o i s M o o f and fl urishing, , like iddlesbr ugh itself, quite
o o recent gr wth . The impr vement during the early part
o o Of the nineteenth century in means Of c mmunicati n ,
o f the building a railway and the deepening Of the Tees , enabled the iro n industry to devel op in the Cleveland
Fo r o area . nly by rapid and cheap carriage was it
o to o re o to p ssible assemble the , c ke , and lime feed the
o s o o f furnaces . The ast ni hing gr wth industry, attracted
s o r s s to M o by the mineral in ea ily acces ible iddlesbr ugh ,
s of is paralleled by the increa e trade . It was as recently as 1 8 29 that a small syndicate o f Quakers b ought fo r the site largely c o mp osed o f bleak salt marshes o nwhich Middlesbrough is built
o now of and which is wo rth very many milli ns . One “ ” M o o o o fo r these iddlesbr ugh wners wr te , when d cks — “ the newly risen p o rt were first suggested : We mu s t have them and then we shall bang Newcastle and M o Sunderland h ollow as a shipping place . iddlesbr ugh — has in fact far surpassed b o th these n o rth eastern p o rts
s to in the value of her Shipping . It claim indeed be the best - equipped p o rt in the kingd om ; and certainly
o o for s the w nderful appliances al ng the quays make ea y,
i s now 1 1 6 o f oo . quick , and cheap handling g ds It ( 9 )
s o o f its n o o the ixth p rt England , and as stra ge m tt SHIPPI NG AND TRADE 8 5
E ri rnns o s oo o to ( , we shall be sh w , l ks f rward still
o o f o higher rank . Like m st the eastern p rts it has never th el es s had a severe s e t back during the Great War ’ Germany w as Middlesbrough s best cust omer and o ne o f its chief providers . The p o rt is no t o n the c o ast but o n what is really a
e deep ship canal eight miles fro m the s a. The Tees ’ has by man s Skill and energy been transfo rmed fro m a brawling stream full o f ro cks and Sh o als int o an
NO o imp o rtant highway . better example can be f und
Of the active c o - operati o n o f man with nature than that
i s o n ffo M o . a rded by iddlesbr ugh It , in a way, the creati o f Co Co o o f h o o the Tees nservancy mmissi ners , w se w rk
o we have already sp ken . It is a curi ous thing that the outward cargo es from Middlesbro ugh are in m o st years wo rth ab out ten times
o ou t o o n the inward carg es . The things sent are th se which much lab our has been expended ; the things — brought in are mainly raw materials and c o rn fo o d for
o o fo r o the furnaces and f d the pe ple . The steamer
o fo r o o re fr m Belfast , instance , regularly brings in ir n fro m Antrim and takes back steel plates fo r the B elfast
- o f Ship yards . The largest Single item the exp o rts i s — o o o pig ir n , the m ulded bars int which the smelted metal has been run . This we may c onsider as the staple pro duct of Cleveland ; but there are als o great quantities of iron and steel goo ds that have passed through further — o of - o pr cesses manufacture Steel rails , bridge w rk ,
s o o n f . o a machines , steel plates , and A vessel
o o Yus en K fam us Japanese line, the Nipp n aisha , sails 8 6 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING fo r the East every fo rtnight laden no t o nly with go o ds made in th e neighb ourhoo d but with general merchand i s e — fr om Yo rk shire and Lancashire including such things
s o o S o as huge gun fr m Barr w and heffield . One curi us fact ab out thi s line is wo rth n o tice : its newest b o ats
o rs have been built in Japan , but fr m plates and girde
M o made in iddlesbr ugh .
No t o o o s o much c al is exp rted , th ugh trangely en ugh it w as fo r c o al Shipment s that the p o rt w as establi shed ;
o s o f i s o o fo r s m t what l aded int the vessels is the engine .
S o o of i s alt fr m b th sides the Tees a weighty item , as
o b — o als are the queer y pr ducts , basic Slag, used largely
s s o o in Ru ia as a manure , and slag w l . A very large
o — a o 2 —O f o fracti n usu lly ab ut 5 per cent . the t tal
for ou r shipments are Indian Empire . In that vast
o o o o w land Y rkshire rails and l c m tives , telegraph ire
s to o and bridges , are helping Engli hmen make the c untry
o s to o s m re erviceable the milli n that inhabit it .
o b o Of the imp rts y far the largest item , m re than f o f o o o re . o half the wh le , is ir n This is all kinds , being
o o S G o S br ught fr m pain , reece, N rth Africa , weden , and
o o S o o even fr m N va c tia . They are all richer in ir n than the Cleveland st one ; and the pig produced fetches a
i for o o s to o higher pr ce , it is m re c tly make and is m re suitable chemically to certain pro cesses in steelmaking .
Co o o o s o fo r th e rn , fl ur , and pr visi n c me next ; farmer of the No rth Riding h as no t yet devel oped hi s land s o that it can feed the peo ple crowded ab o ut the wo rks by
which they live . “ s A great ma ny tramp steamers frequent the Tee . S HIPPING AND TRADE 8 7
These are the c o mm o n carriers fo r man o n the ocean and
no s o o o o to o have ettled r ute , g ing fr m p rt p rt wherev er
s cargo call them . Their earnings when plying between “ ” o o o f ou r v o places abr ad f rm a l arge part in isible exp rts , paid fo r by sending to Britain foo d and materials . But
o to o o o f there are numer us fine liners , , including s me
c o m o fo r as the largest arg stea ers afl at , such , instance, the British India and the Peninsular and Oriental to
S to C India and the East , the hire hina and J apan , the
o C to So M to Uni n astle uth Africa , the ilburn Australia ,
C to C and the airn anada .
w as o f o s on o There , c ur e , trade the N rth Riding c o ast and up the Tees l o ng befo re Middlesbrough was
o o f no t o o — th ught . Whitby nly sent her h me built ships to the whale fishery but used them also fo r trade ; and we Often read o f landing o pera ti o n s at Scarb o ro ugh in
o o f o the bay under the shad w the castle r ck . The chief “ o o now o p rt , h wever , in early days was Yarm , the nly ” o o f finished t wn in England , where the building a
o o h use is a startling ccurrence . Under the energetic enc o uragement o f the Tees Co mmi s si o ners and the devel opment o f the river as a waterway Yarm may have
is . o a bustling future At present it a sleepy t wn , w o o n aking nly market days , and its Shipping is
not so negligible . It was always . There is in existence ’ o f o 1 20 6 o a list cust ms dues paid in , in King J hn s reign . In it we read that whereas Yarum paid
2 5 l . . I Ot . S o o 2 2 Co 1 65 . £4 7 , carb r ugh paid £ , atham
n o o 5 and Whitby m re than 4 . And in an acc ount o f the English fleet b efo re Cal ais in 1 346 it is stated that Yarm 8 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o two o —s S o o pr vided ships and f rty even men , carb r ugh one o Ship and nineteen men . The m dern p o rt that
o dwarfs them b th was then dismal marshland .
o s e a as In days when r bbers infested the , when in ’ 1 S o o o to 377 carb r ugh c uld be victim a pirates raid , it was an advantage fo r a p ort to be placed far up ,
o o s o r a stream . But m dern c mmerce call f depth o f
o o l water and Speed in handling g ds , and ti l these are
o o to h pr vided Yarm will c ntinue languis .
1 i r 7 . H s to y .
o o of our We cann t tell in any detail the st ry riding , fo r to d o this wo uld be to rewrite a large part o f English
o To e o f o hist ry . an unusual ext nt men the N rth Riding
o f have played a part in the making England , and many
o n i ts o stirring incidents have taken place s il . We depend no t a little up o n c o nj ecture for the hi s t o ry of
o of o the riding bef re it became part the R man empire .
o w as It is certain , h wever , that it inhabited by the “ o o f o warlike Brigantes , the pe ple the heights , wh se
o o — o o remains are thickly strewn ver the n rth east m rs ,
s o and that they were ubdued nly after severe fighting .
o w o o o In the end , h ever, the R mans br ught the c untry
o o under civilisati n , made r ads , built bridges , and o o o oo o rganised the pe ple , till then b und l sely t gether by
o o o o of the tie f c mm n race . Y rkshire became a part the province Maxima Cae s ari ensi s and w as garri s o ned b y
o the fam o us Sixth (o r Vict o ri ous) Legi n . The base and “ a s n of Le io w as o o r e al this g Victrix Y rk , the ther
9 0 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
The Angles from mere plunderers had bec o me c o n
e r rs f s u o o o . o o . q Y rk hire The Danes f ll wed their example , and during many Ob s cure years incur si o n s gradually
o s s o n turning int ettlement went . The Old Engli sh
C o s s o o h o hr nicle ay little ab ut the n rt , but we kn w that
o o o the invaders f unded a kingd m in Y rk . This kept ’ s its independence till Athel tane s time . Even when William the Co nquero r landed at Peven s ey the land n orth o f Humber was c o nnected with the s outh o nly by the
o f weakest ties . During a century and a half the men o f Yo rkshire had t olerated in s ullen di s c o ntent the
o s o f o . its verl rdship Of We sex In name a part England ,
o s w as s s men c nsidered them elves distinct . It this pa i o n for independence that brought up o n the c ounty s o ’ terrible a punishment at William s hand . Despairing
to s s s o s o o f Of bringing ubmi i n men impatient rule , the
o o s to C nquer r ruthles ly tried exterminate them . ’ Harold s defeat at Hastings in 1 0 66 was u shered in ’ frin o s To s ti o s ti . by g events in Y rk hire g, King Har ld s
o his fo to banished br ther , had Obtained help in ef rt
o o o o gain back his earld m fr m the N rwegian king, Har ld “ r r a o s o f Kliflo nd Ha d ad . Their fleet made the c a t , where all men fled Scarb o rough w as taken and burnt ;
F o tw o the invaders sailed up the Ouse, and at ulf rd , miles
o o o s o f o fr m Y rk , defeated the f rce the n rthern earls ,
Mo s o o s Edwin and rcar . Engli h Har ld , wh e help had
o s — s s been inv ked by the e half independent earl , ha tened
o s o n o s s o f n rth , surpri ed the enemy encamped b th ide
S o o the Derwent at tamf rd B ridge , and attacking fr m
w o n d a the right bank the y . HISTORY 9 1
For s ome time after Hastings Yo rkshire w as little
ff Co o o a ected by the nquest , and its pe ple supp sed that th ey were to c o ntinue as independent as under the
o u o previ us r lers at Westminster . But William w uld be
o o s c ntent nly with a united England . The avage attack o n the N o rman garris o n o f Yo rk in 1 0 68 gave him the
S o pretext he wanted for enfo rcing his will . ubmissi n now bro ught no mercy ; with pitiless severity he harried
Yo rkshire s o that no human being might live there .
o o o d H mes , cr ps , cattle were all destr ye ; the fertile Vale o f Yo rk became a deserted wilderness and the b o dies o f th o se wh o had perished fro m famine lay
o o o r tting by the r adsides . L ng after that terrible winter o f 1 0 69 the land b o re abundant traces o f the
o S o f 1 0 86 o ravage . In the D mesday urvey entries ab ut “ ” the N o rt Tred ing reiterate fo r page after page with ” o o s aas tnrn es t o min u brevity waste ( ) . The N rth Riding as in any way under separate rule cea s ed to
s o s o o exi t . Y rk hire and its st ry became hencef rth in
o reality a part Of England and English hist ry .
was no t o It as an Englishman , as a n rthern earl , that " s o S o C o o f Peter de Bru , l rd Of kelt n astle and ancest r the
o to o o o patri t king, helped f rce fr m the reluctant J hn ’ o f M C 1 2 1 n o the grant agna arta in 5 . Duri g King J hn s s ubsequent sh ort time o f p o wer he besieged and captured ’ S o C o kelt n astle , indicating that Brus s part in btaining
no t w as o f the charter was small . I t as part England ,
to o F o o , that until the date Of l dden the N rth
o S o Riding was an advanced p st against c ttish attacks ,
w as o “ o b and as such never l ng exempt fr m distur ance . 9 2 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
During the l o ng and wasteful s truggle between N o rth and South small marauding bands repeatedly penetrated
o o s o o s int Y rk hire , where the f rtified church t wers till
o f o t remind us the precauti ns that had o be taken . In 1 1 38 King David o f Sc o tland invaded Yo rk shire with a ho rde Of wild Highlanders in the cause O fl l l iS
M o niece atilda . The invaders were met three miles fr m N o rthallert o n by a fo rce summ o ned by Archbish op ’ o o Mo Thurstan s past ral letter . Bruce, Bali l , and wbray n — were there with their retai ers , and the steel clad knights standing before their archers ea sily repelled the ’ tw o o o Highland attacks . In h urs King David s f rces
o were r uted and he himself in flight . Behind the
o C English archers , in t ken that the hurch was fighting
o o f o w as against the aggressi n savage r bbers , carried a — mast bearing fo ur sacred banners th o se of St Peter o f
o St o f o St C of Y rk , Wilfrid Rip n , uthbert Durham , and
o o f w as St J hn Bev erley . This it that gave this fight
of o f S the name the Battle the tandard . ’ During Edward II S unlucky reign the riding had
s w as S o o 1 1 2 a troubl ou time . I t at carb r ugh in 3 that Edward was o bliged to desert his fav o urite Gav es ton ;
o S o o s s and after Bann ckburn the c ts , b ld in their ucces ,
o to o 1 1 8 paid three visits in f rce the c unty . In 3 under
o s of Black D uglas , the taunch friend Bruce , they ravaged
to S o o . 1 1 up carb r ugh , which they burnt In 3 9 Bruce ,
to o w as seeking divert Edward fr m Berwick , which he
M o - o n s s o o o . be ieging, ent f rces t wards Y rk At yt n Swale these defeated an English army hurriedly gathered
SO by the Archbishop of Yo rk and his clergy . great
9 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Headed by a pro ce s si o n o f priests with cro sses and — banners whence the ri sing was kn own as the Pilgri mage o f — Grace Aske went to besiege Scarb o ro ugh Castle . But it w as st outly defended and with the appro ach o f ’ o o Henry s tr ps the insurgents melted away . Aske
o f o o A o and many his f ll wers were put to death . m ng
w as s o o f erv aul x wh o w as them the la t Abb t J , hanged at
1 s o s to o o f o o Tyburn in 537. Vi it r the T wer L nd n may still find the name he carved while awaiting executi o n in “ ” 11 1 o Sed b ar s o rev a . B eauchamp T wer, Adam , Abba J 537 During the Comm o nwealth wars no battle w as
o o o M o Mo o f ught in the N rth Riding, th ugh arst n r
s o o a few mile bey nd the b rder , was the scene Of the great ’ o f C o s o r triumph r mwell Ir nsides . Prince Rupe t , during
o o n the night bef re the battle , had encamped the edge o f Gal tre s Fo s of re t . The men the riding as a rule
s s o f o o were adherent Of the King, and the ca tles B lt n ,
s S o o so o Helm ley, and carb r ugh were garri ned by the R yal i s s s t . The last castle twice sustained a iege during the
o c ntest . — The later peaceful pro gres s o f the c ounty its Share
o o o f s in the intr ducti n railways , its indu trial triumph in the creati o n o f Middlesbrough with i ts multiple
o i ts activities , its gr wth in trade , farming achievements — o f i s o s o . detailed in ther ecti ns The Great War , which o ne incident was the b ombarding o f Scarb o ro ugh
no o s o and Whitby, has d ubt adly interrupted its rderly
o devel pment . But with peace we may anticipate that
o o the N rth Riding men and w men , splendid in war ,
s o d will s peedily retrieve what strife de tr ye . ANTI"UI I S 9 5 T E
An i i i e s . 1 8 . t q u t
Fro m the scanty relics o f the earliest inhabitants o f
our o island , fr m the things they made and used , the
s o to o o f hi t rian tries build up the st ry their lives , just as the ge ol ogist fro m the fo ssils fo und in th e ro cks tells
o o f s o the sto ry o f the land . In s me the Engli h c unties relics have been found o f a very early race o f men wh o hunted in the fo rests o f the Thames Valley and the — s o uthern parts o f o ur land during the far Off days when
a . e t its o Yo rk shire w s y hidden by ice c vering . But pro bably no remains o f the men Of the Old St o ne Age (o r Palae olithic Peri o d as it is called) have been fo und
in the N o rth Riding . When after a great gap o f time o ur climate became
o S o o r o m re genial , the men Of the New t ne ( Ne lithic)
o o Age appeared . They came , it is supp sed , fr m the sho res o f the Mediterranean ; and so far as we kn o w
to o they were the first men live in the N rth Riding .
s o o o Of their implement , their weap ns and t ls , and their
o o o o m ther p ssessi ns , the p ttery they ade and the
o rnaments in which they delighted , a quite remarkable
o o ur harvest has been gathered int museums . They
o n on o — oo no t lived the higher land the n rth eastern m rs ,
on o r o n o to the marshy plain the l ftier fells the west .
u s e b ow fo r These men must have learnt the Of the ,
o o - s they made finely chipped and p lished arr w head , leaf - Shaped flints with sharp p oints ; they utilised m o re effectively their ability to throw things by means Of 9 5 S N YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDI G
or of o j avelins Spears , the heads which were p lished flint ; they flayed and cut up the anIm al s they slew with
o — l ng Straight edged flint knives . They had flint scrapers , too for To , with which they prepared the skins wear . Obtain the material for their weap ons they dug deep to of the beds flint . The women were beginning to spi n and weave ; they shaped clay and burnt it int o p o ttery ; — and they were fo nd of ornaments the first wearer s o f o f j et beads . They intr duced the breeds o cattle
o ur o s fo r prevalent in c untry until the Angle came , the
S o no t s New t ne men were herdsmen , merely hunter ,
o o - o th ugh they knew n thing Of metal w rking, the art
o o for of that has d ne m st the welfare mankind . They
— o or o for built great egg Shaped barr ws funeral m unds , they h o n oured the dead and placed by their side o bj ects
o f o that might be use in s me future life . The St o ne Age men were c o nquered by a branch o f the great Celtic family that had learnt h ow to make
So o o hard bro nze weap ons . meh w it was disc vered that a little tin mixed with the already kn own c opper
o s o o o pr duced a harder metal , and br nze came int
o f o being . Only very scanty remains the Br nze Age,
o o u o . h wever , have been f nd in the N rth Riding The t o ols o r weap ons m ade o f the metal w ere so valuable that
no t o they were buried in the barr w, but were handed d own as heirl ooms and carried away befo re the next
s wave o f invader .
o to o These were the Bryth ns , wh m the name Britain
to o is due . They were akin the Br nze Age men , but they
h ow to o o ff had learnt make ir n , which is even m re e ective
9 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
secure what land they had already w o n and to give them a fo rtified ba s e fro m which to make further c on ’ s que ts . A line o f entrenchments known as Sc o t s Dike
o S to o o stretches fr m the wale the Tees , and an ther gr up
on How ard i an o o o the Hills verl ks the Vale of Pickering .
NO o o d English c unty, except indeed N rthumberlan , h as o o o m re R man remains than has the N rth Riding .
’ W ad e s C au s e w ay ; a R o m an R o ad o n W h e e ld al e M o o r
our o on o Nearly every part Of c unty, the plain at N rth
o o s allert n , am ng the we tern fells at Bainbridge and
o o n e astern . m oo rs C o B wes , and the at awth rne camp , c o ntains traces o f the o ccupati o n o f this wo nderful
o o 1 20 o pe ple . The Emper r Hadrian in br ught the Sixth Legio n fro m Germany and s tati o ned it at Eb o r ac um o s o f o in our . Till the cl e R man rule land the A I"UI I S 9 9 NT T E
North Riding was full o f their activity . The greater part o f the Officers and men were engaged in garri so n
o w as duty al o ng the n o rthern walls . Y rk their base
o ffi o and headquarters , and there was c nstant tra c fr m
o d that centre alo ng the r a s . When danger threatened from the n o rth the vigiles (the firemen wh o kept watch)
o o at Greta Bridge w uld fire their Signal beac n . Past
S o Co C t o h o c tch rner and atterick , pas N rt allert n and the
5 922 ( N O R T H 3 E A) V movmm £
ve n h d l
BRIGANTES
ROMA/V ROADS AND
c rve nt M 1 o z o s e ro
o o f on o street stati ns , the line beac s summ ned fro m
o o to Y rk f rces repel the attack .
The sketch map here given sh ows the site in o ur c ounty Of the chief Roman stati o ns S O far as w e can identify them . They w ere c o nnected by paved military 1 o o o f o h ow r ads , s me parts which , sh wing well the Roman
1 The road rom A l d b o ro u h to Pi e rc b rid e l h f g e g t ro ugh Catte ri c k w as p art of am o us Watl n Stre e t that ro m Mal ton o l f i g f t Whi tby pro b ab y p art o f ’ E rm in Stre e g t. Se e Co d rin ton s Roman Road s i n Bri tai n 1 1 8 E d t o n ( g , 9 i i . )
7 - 2 1 00 R S YO K HIRE , NORTH RIDING
s o so engineer did their w rk , still remain after great a
s of s lap e time . The thicker line indicate Roman ro ads
i now i s o s o actually in use . The chief that acr s the c unty from Aldb orough in the West Riding through Catterick to o n o f Piercebridge the Durham side the Tees . At Sc o tch Co rner the ro ad branched o ff to cro s s the dreary
o f Stainm oor o s o height , past B wes (whence a t ne
o now Co inscripti n came , preserved in Trinity llege ,
C o n to C s s ) , ambridge arli le and the we tern end. Of the
o o s h to— o s Wall . The m t r rider w o day tear al ng thi part “ of the Great N o rth Ro ad are indebted fo r its straight
to o s S O o a o wh o no ness the R man builder l ng g , sparing
o r o o o s s time lab ur , hewed their way thr ugh f re t , and
s o o h built cau eway s ver the marshes , in rder that t eir
As s as armies might m ove with speed . intere ting any i s the r o ad over the fells to Lanca s ter fr o m the pretty
th e o s village Bainbridge , where R man camp is till o to o t preserved , un pened and certain c n ain abundant
s — o and s now s — remains . Gra s gr wn ilent , the kilfully laid
o as o st nes are there much the R mans left them , and the
o o to o s r ad , sc rning deviate , climbs in a direct line acr s
o o M the m untain ridge . In Y rk useum is a magnificent
o o o f o s o s o c llecti n R man remains , altar , inscripti n , c ins ,
o o M o M and weap ns , and in the D rman em rial useum at Middlesbro ugh are m o st interesting relics o f the Roman — o o o f C . o o ccupati n leveland These relics c ins , p ttery, o s o — o S C rnament , cl th , etc . came fr m the altburn amp , an o t o o o o f Hu ntc liffe u l k f rtress at the summit , excavated
o 1 1 1 —1 2 and expl red in 9 . We might expect the Sax o n peri o d to yield m o re
1 02 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
Saxo n building s urvives alm o st s olely in p o rtio n s Of
s s o s r o mall churche like th e at Kirkdale , Kirk Hamme t n
o S o o f o —l e— and H rnby . The ax n t wer o Applet n Street
i s o church the finest in Y rkshire . The N o rman c o nque s t started a widespread building I
K irk H amm e rto n C h urch
(S nowi ng S ax on p orti on i n f oreground an d mod ern p orti on behind )
of massive churche s and ca s tles in the c o ntinental style
o s s l i s o called R mane que . The ty e in England kn wn as “ ” o f s o . N rman It is marked by walls great thicknes ,
— s o — o o o s semi circular vault , r und headed d rs and wind w ,
and massive square t owers . ARCHITE CTURE —E CCLESIASTICAL 1 03
F o 1 1 0 to 1 20 0 r m 5 the building became lighter , and
th e arches p ointed . Then was perfected the science Of vaulting by which the weight i s bro ught up o n piers and
o o f o buttresses . This meth d building, the G thic , o riginated from the wish to c over the widest and l o ftiest
o o of o areas with the greatest ec n my St ne . The first “ ” s o o o Engli h G thic , called Early English , fr m ab ut
1 1 8 0 to 1 2 0 is o o 5 , characterised by slender piers (c mm nly
o f o o o o marble) , l fty, p inted vaults , and l ng, narr w ,
— o o f lancet headed wind ws . The splendid ruins Whitby
o and Rievaulx Abbeys are Early English , but the m st
Of S o o perfect example is the little church kelt n , n rth
O i o 1 2 0 o o west Y rk . After 5 the wind ws became br ader ,
o and were divided up and rnamented by tracery, in the w vaults the ribs ere multiplied . The greatest elegance
of o o 1 260 to 1 2 0 English G thic was reached fr m 9 , when
i ts and English sculpture was at best , art in painting ,
o o - in c l ured glass making , and in general craftsmanship
was at its zenith . After 1 30 0 the Structure o f st o ne buildings began to
o o o - be verlaid with rnament , the wind w tracery and
- o f vault ribs were intricate patterns , the pinnacles and
o o k o spires l aded with cr c et and rnament . This style is
o as o kn wn Dec rated , and lasted till the Black Death ,
1 8 o fo r which after 34 st pped all building a time . The finest example o f Dec o rated in the c ounty must have
o o o o f been Guisb r ugh Pri ry, which the magnificent east
o o o — o end still verl ks the red tiled t wn . With the changed c o nditi o ns of life the type o f
. s e building changed The ty le call d Perpendicular , 1 04 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o o o s o unkn wn abr ad , devel ped with curi u unif rmity and quickness in all parts o f England and lasted from the latter part o f the fourteenth century with
s to 1 20 AS its s carcely any change up 5 . name implie , it i s marked by the perpendicular arrangement o f the
s o n o s / i s tracery and panel walls and in wind w , and it als o distinguished by the flattened arche s and the
o f o s o square arrangement the m ulding ver them , by the
o s s elab rate vault tracerie (e pecially fan vaulting) , and
us e o f o o o o by the flat r fs and t wers with ut Spires .
our s Thirsk parish church is perhaps be t example . The mediev al style s in England ended with the diss oluti on o f the m o nasteries ( 1 530 fo r the
o o — Ref rmati n checked church building . There succeeded
o f o - o the building man r h uses , in which the style called
o o s — flat- o s Tud r ar e characterised by headed wind w , f s oo . o s o level ceiling , and panelled r ms The rnament classic style were intro duced under the influence o f
o Renaissance sculpture and distinguish the Jac bean style ,
o o s s o s o called after James I . Ab ut this time the pr fe i nal
architect appeared . Till then building had been entirely
s in the hands Of the builder and the craft man .
s s o Of these later tyle , except the Dec rated and
o o o s Perpendicular , which fl urished while the c ntenti n
S o o o n o sh with c tland br ught much harm Y rk ire , the
s N orth Riding has many and n o table example . The century after the Co nquest w as dignified and elevated
s o w as by a wave o f religi o u s enthusia m . N where it stro nger than in the regi o n that William had cruelly
and o ravaged , and abbeys churches bear el quent witness
1 9 5 KS YOR HIRE , NORTH RIDING
so o oo o w as l had l ng st d unm ved , and the building stil
o further injured by the German b mbardment . There
o o are still left the beautiful n rth transept , the m st
o f magnificent part the church , the Early English
its o o s of chancel with seven stately bays , and p rti n the
o s o e nave and n rth ai le . The Abbey cr ss is erected n ar . So me Of the Benedictine m onasterie s had bec ome
o f o s wh o places wealth and ease , and c n equently men ’ wished to carry out m o re strictly Benedict s rule fo rmed
o o f C o s o new rders . The chief these was the istercian rder, called because their rule o riginated at the little m o nastery o f o of C s Citeaux in Burgundy . The w rk the i tercians i s the m o st striking feature of the religi ous life o f Yo rk
o shire . In the N rth Riding they built the splendid
e l x o Of rv au . h uses Rievaulx , Byland , and J Their rule
S to to o was strict . ilence had be kept ; they had lab ur
to tw o o for o f every day, rise at in the m rning the first
to o the daily services , and eat nly the plainest vegetable
o o o e oo so w ere f d . They w re a dr ss Of undyed w l and . named White Mo nks .
for h They ch o se s o me sheltered valley t eir settlements .
o o o Rievaulx , the m ther abbey fr m which thers like the
o s M o o oo s o i ts fam u elr se are ffsh ts , is beautiful in ruin
o o that no t Tintern itself is m re l vely . As in all the Ci s tercian abbeys the main buildings were gr o uped aro und the fo ur sides o f the cl oister garth . On the
' o th e c hurc h o n o o o r n rth was , the s uth the refect ry
on o o for o dining hall , the east the d rmit ry the m nks ,
o and o n the west the dwellings o f the lay br thers . Outside the main building were the infirm ary and th e ARCHITECTUR E— E CCLE S IASTICAL 1 07
’ — strangers chapel fo r no stranger was admitted int o
o wh o n o the abbey . The abb t , besides ruli g the m nks was a great no ble having lands and tenants , usually had a house o utside th e abbey .
- of Rievaulx (Rye vales) in the quiet valley the Rye ,
o s o three miles fr m Helmsley, is sheltered in the dale
R i e v aul x Ab b e y that the wonderful carving o f its pleasantly - c ol o ured sandsto ne i s still alm o st as sharp as when the chi s el of th e o m nkish craftsman left it . The church has , very
o o fo r unusually, been built n rth and s uth , the nature
Of a nd o o the Site has prevented an east west p siti n . The parts o f the building remaining intact are the Early Engli sh chancel with its seven bays stretching 1 08 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING to the fine eastern lancets and the transepts . The
o o daughter abbey, Byland , reached by a m rland
s o o o track, three mile ver a ridge int an even m re s o o i s s ecluded h ll w, Of le s interest ; but the ruined nave and the great west front with fine Early Engli sh f
G ui s b o ro ugh Pri o ry
l x o o f o o . erv au w rk tell f rmer stately gl ries J , near the
o o of o C s f t Wensleydale, was an ther istercian establi h
S o n o s o of ment . ituated lev el mead w land uth the Ure
s ff o s o o its it u ers by c mpari n with Rievaulx, th ugh ruined chancel gives evidence of a fine Early Engli sh building .
T h e N o an C t a t n h rm ryp , L s i gh am C urch ARCHITECTURE— ECCLE SIASTICAL 1 1 1
e o o S o o o o f Eggl st n made fam us by c tt , th ugh all w rthy
o o o o . cl se examinati n , can nly be menti ned The ancient churches o f the N o rth Riding attract one d o less than its ruined abbey s and castles , but there
o o are s me general features that must be n ticed , and S i s many buildings are o f excepti o nal interest . uch
h o n o o o o S x o Lasting am , secluded the m rs , nce a n ted a n “ l s o shrine , placed as Bede te l us am ng craggy and inaccessible m ountains where wild beasts were to be
o f met rather than friendly men . The crypt the later
o o o church is the finest N rman w rk in the c unty . In
o o old N rthallert n church , a grand structure perhaps due
to - o o f o the prince bish ps Durham , we have N rman and later Early English s tyles ; s o me Sax o n fragments are
o treasured and there is beautiful Perpendicular wo o dw rk . k Thirs parish church , a magnificent Perpendicular
o Its o building, is the finest in the c unty . curi us crypt under the chancel is pro bably o wing to the sl o pe o f the
o o Co d no t gr und t wards Beck , and is , like that at
o f Lastingham , an inner sanctuary . The church Patrick
o o erv aulx Br mpt n , near J , is mainly Early English , but
o f o o the chancel is an example the best Dec rated w rk .
o o o o o f S o At Kirkdale , ver the s uth d r the Old ax n
I o s un— o church , s a fam us dial , 7 feet l ng and bearing the
o i o o f o— o o l ngest nscripti n extant the Angl Sax n peri d . The grand old c hurc h of Pi c k e ringi s fam ous fo r a remark — o f o able series wall paintings ab v e the nave . These
o s o fresc e , dating fr m the fifteenth century, are the
finest in England . One s triking p oint ab out the Older churches is the S YORK H IRE , NORTH RIDING
— s O f o s s o r r s . M o s s trength thei f tre like t wer any , d ubtle , s as have erved place s Of refuge during hara s sing raid s
Fre s c o e s i n P ick e ri n g C hurch
o o o fr m the n rth . S me Otherwise simple church t owers — — — B olt o n on Swale and Danby Wiske are in s tances
1 1 4 S G YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDIN
— 2 0 . A r l rch ite ctu e (b) Mi itary .
Dwelling amidst what w as l o ng a ho stile p opulace the No rman s devel oped the building o f castle s int o a s cience ; Richm o nd and Scarb o r ough thwarted 'the
bravest effo rt s o f insurgent Engli shmen . And the fact that the N o rth Riding during many centurie s had to bear the brunt o f Sc o tti sh raid s bro ught int o clearer light the utility o f a fo rtre s s that might bec o me a haven
o s r s o r f s f afety o a ba e f Of ence . Again t the frequent inro ad s o f marauders fro m the n o rth the farmsteads “ ” themselv es were built in the fo rm Of a pele o r “ ” o o o of — peel t wer , int the uter yard which the ”— b arne k in the cattle might be driven when danger
threatened . We can thus understand why the riding has s cattered o v er its surface m o re ruined stro nghold s
than any o ther c ounty except N orthumberland .
o s o f o o o The great n ble the N rth , rem te fr m the central
o o o o o o r M auth rity in L nd n , ruled fr m Richm nd iddleham
o r as s F o o o f Helmsley petty king . r m every p int vantage their fo rtified ho me s d o minated the district aro und there were Skelt o n and Kilt o n o n the n o rthern flank s o f the Cleveland Hills ; Mulgrave and royal Scarb o r ough — o n the c o ast the o ne o n a narro w i s thmu s between tw o
s o on o s deep ravine , the ther a precipit us cliff ; the quat
o o s s o Stainm oo r t wer Of B wes guarded the pa ver , the o ne depres si o n between the Tyne and Aire Gaps ; and there w as a s triking series that kept watch o v er the dale s Opening from th e n orth up o n the Vale o f Pickering ARCHITE CTURE— MILITARY 1 1 5
— to Moo . o Ay n , Kirby rside , and Helmsley But b rder warfare has l o ng ceased and the d omestic is now m o re ’ pro nounced than the military element in a n o ble s
o o h use , and the ancient strongh lds have been deserted
M o f fo r m o re c omfo rtable h omes elsewhere . any the
— Ax h olm e M — castles , Kirkby alzeard , Thirsk have been destroyed in punishment for the rebelli o n o f their l o rds ; Others like Mulgrave retain o nly the name o f the ruin s ’ o f o s o o near them ; s me , like Bi h p Pudsey s at N rth
f o o o no t o . allert n , a trace st new rk remains The earliest fo rtre s ses built by the No rmans were
s o f o l ofty st o ne keep like that Richm nd . The strength o f these keeps depended o n the thicknes s o f their walls and the advantages o f their p o siti o n : Richm o nd is
o n o s s o S placed a m und that ri e high ab ve the wale ,
o S o o o n i ts which alm st encircles it , carb r ugh great Castle Ro ck is c o nnected with th e mainland o nly by a
n o f narrow and easily defended eck land . The keeps
o o o were usually three st ries high . The l west c ntained
o f o o o a well , Often great depth , and the st re r ms ; the ’ middle provided the s oldier s quarters ; and the third
w as o o f o o his the h me the g vern r and family . The
o o o upper st ries at Richm nd , where the keep is still alm st
perfect , were reached by straight staircases in the thick
o f . one tw o o ness the walls Later, , and afterwards , uter walls encl o sed a space around the keep fo rming an inner
o bailey and an uter bailey . If the defenders were driven from the o uter wall the inner w as a s ec o nd line
o f o o o defence bef re the keep c uld be attacked . A m at ,
o o n cr ssed by a drawbridge , usually surr u ded the castle , 1 1 6 S N YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDI G and the entrance gate w as pr o tected by a p o rtculli s
o o o s that c uld be dr pped at will . The uter defence
‘ Often encl o sed a great Space ; that o f Scarb o ro ugh ’ o s ffi for s s is ab ut nineteen acre , su cient a mall army camp .
o C s n o w s Richm nd astle , tandi g fair up n the hill , a ’ built b y the Co nquer o r s nephew to o verawe Richm o nd — shire the princely gift o f Swaledale and the Vale o f
Mo as s s s wbray . The Teesdale Gap w the u ual pa age
’ o S o W l o f fr m c tland , and i liam , realising the value having
fo r e h e re s s c o . a permanent military , auth ri ed the ca tle
s o s 1 0 6 o f Thi was m t likely in 9 , after the fierce harrying
o h ~ m s s Y rkshire and Dur am . The a ive keep , under the
o o f o w as s shad w which the t wn grew, upplemented by two o s uter ward . Scarb o ro ugh w as pr o bably one o f the unauth o ri s ed ” ’ - s adulterine ca s tle s that aro s e in Stephen reign .
o h as s But Henry II c mpelled its surrender , and it ince
o s w1 tnessin been a r y al ca tle , g many stirring sights
o o s Gav e ston 1 1 2 am ng thers the urrender Of in 3 , and sieges succes s ful and un successful during the Pilgrimage o f 1 e s Grace ( 536) and in th Civil War . Fo rtific atio ns at Middleham were als o auth o ri s ed by
Co o o no t the nquer r , th ugh the present castle was begun “ 1 1 0 i s s o as o f s until 9 . It be t kn wn the castle the La t ” of o s - o f the Bar n , the King maker Warwick , greatest w the Nevilles . Richard III by his marriage ith Anne
s o Neville Obtained the ca tle and ften lived there , and
s o n M i s here was b orn and died his o nly . iddleham o y o ne ow"e b e peculiar in having nl narr spac tween the
1 1 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o f s keep and the uter wall . The decay o I t rubble St o ne wo rk is in great co ntra s t to the endurance o f Ro ma n building .
o o C o n o B lt n astle , rising gr und farther up the river and o n o o s th e S o the pp ite Side , was built by cr pe family
’ T h e K i n g - M ak e r s C as tl e ( M idd l e h am )
Lo rd Scro pe o f Masham is one Of the c o ns pi rat o rs i n ’ e r o as o ne o f Shakespeare s H n y V) . It is well kn wn
o s M o f S o s i s the pris n Of ary Queen c t , and there a traditi o n that she attempted escape but w as recaptured “ ’ ” — w o o ar Queen s Gap o n Leyburn Sha l . B lt n is a large ARCHITE CTURE— MILITARY 1 1 9 ex ample of a rectangular keep ( 1 379) with an o pen c ourtyard . Pickering i s an instance of the transfo rming o f an
ne earth and timber castle into a medieval o . The
B ol to n C as tl e
defensible site is o n a cliff ab ove th e stream two miles
o o o o o o s fr m the R man r ad fr m Y rk . The earthw rk ,
r o f o m enti ely N rman type , were supple ented by the
o d st ne buil ing . 1 20 YORKSHIRE RIDING , NORTH]
— 2 1 . Ar h i e re c Do m s i c t ctu ( ) e t c .
The c omparative rarity o f n o table d welling - h ouses in the N o rth Riding fo rm s a great c o ntrast to the wealth of s s s s o churche , abbey , and ca tle in the c unty . When there cea s ed to be need o f a str o nghold to defend hi s
” R afte r - b ui l t h o u s e s h o wi n g cru c k s an d fram e w o rk land the n o ble no d oubt o ften built hi s man o r - ho u s e near the Co urt and the capital . — A l o cal peculiarity are the curi o us rafter built h ouses o n th e C o o th e ou o s leveland m rs , in which r gh st ne wall were reared ab o ut tw o wo o den fo rks who s e end s re s ted o n o o s s o the gr und . They are n waday upplanted by m re
s healthful and m ore spaci ou dwellings .
1 22 S RIDING YORK HIRE , NORTH wh o buy a go o d h o u s e thro ugh a building s ociety and
to i ts o o 1 own add c mf rt by thei handicraft .
o as s s o Here and there in the riding, ften the ucce s rs o f s o o s s o f tr ng but inc nvenient castle , are the seat great S . C o s o o families nape astle near Bedale , l ng a tr ngh ld o f s o now on — o s is fin e the Neville th ugh ly a farm h u e , a
S n ap e C as tl e old quadrangle impro ved by the Cecil s o f Elizabeth
s o and i a residence rather than a fo rt . The m dern
M C s s o f no ulgrave a tle , a few mile west Whitby , has
s o s to s i s preten i n trength , but a magnificent dwelling
o s So to o o oo h u e . , , is Dunc mbe Hall , dwarfing the p r
f e s s e u s o C . r in H lm ley astle be id it The Hall , rebuilt ARCHITECTURE— DOMESTIC 1 23
o — Si r after being burnt , was planned by the p et architect , ’ o o ne o f J hn Vanbrugh , in Queen Anne s reign , and is the massive structure s that gave rise to the epitaph o n him
o n a fo r Lie heavy him , E rth ; he a L id ma ny a he avy l o ad o n thee .
C o o o — o s w o f astle H ward , a fam us sh w place f ur mile est
M o o o alt n , als was planned by him . The imp sing man si o n is o ne o f the finest example s o f Co rin thian
C as tl e H o w ard
r one o f Renaissance , and its picture galle y is the art
s o f trea uries England . Other n o table c ountry h ouses are the Elizabethan
ou C M Br gh Hall near atterick Bridge ; arske , Hall , a — fine man or house built near Redcar by the Penny m an ’ o o o f family in James I s reign ; Burt n Hall , the h me V VV v ill es o o o f V e nsl e the y , in a pleasant park at the f t y
h o o f dale ; Nappa Hall near Aysgarth , the ancient me the numero us Metcalf family and o ne o f the many 1 24 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING places where th e Queen o f Sc o t s pa s sed her weary
o s o s o f impris nment ; A ke Hall , near Richm nd , a eat the
M o f Z o o f arquis etland . the h me the leader in the “ ” Pilgrimage o f Grace ; the Tud o r rect o ry at Wath ; ’ “ o s to o s o Hartl e a and , cl e W rd w rth s p Well , the
o o Co s n Elizabethan Walburn Hall . N rt n nyer , ear the
M ars k e H al l
o f o o f o o s o f little village Wath , was the h me the N rt n ,
h o o d s o to 1 6 s s w m W r w rth , referring the 5 9 ri ing , say in “ ” Do e of o The White Rylst ne ,
oo sons Th N o r on wi h hi n igh g d , ee , t , t t e e t " oo to d ie a as for They d med , l , ruth
Some even o f the m o re m o dern build ings that replaced the fo rtres s es o f turbulent d ays hav e di s appeared and
1 26 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
o o s h as o o o ff N rth Y rk hire , h wever , l ng been better
its o s o s S n n o f in r ad than m st district . i ce the beginni g
o o n o o hist ry it has been the main line o f c mmunicati n . We have learnt a little ab out the military highways that the Ro mans made acro ss the c o unty ; highways by which their legi o ns marched to repel the attacks b f
s o o x o s o barbarian fr m bey nd the Wall . E pediti n fr m Sc o tland to England and fro m England to Sc o tland cho se as a rule the ea s t c o ast ro ad al o ng the flanks of the
o o f o Pennines thr ugh the level Vale Y rk , rather than
s s the passage acro the m ountains o f Westm o rland . And “ — - to day the No rth Ea s tern Railway is a link in the East ” Co o o s s ast R ute , the line that pr vide the speedie t
o o o o c mmunicati n between L nd n and Edinburgh . Even in their worst days the main ro ads o f the
no er b ad T — t v y . o r riding have been ‘ day they a e
oo . fo r exceedingly g d Leeming Lane , instance , that part o f the Great No rth Ro ad fro m B o ro ughbridge
o o e emin o n rthward thr ugh Le g Bar , where t lls were n o i s s . c llected , as traight and level as any in E gland N owadays the County Co uncil h as in its care the
o main ro ads linking the great centres o f p opulati n . Fro m am o ng its members it app oints a Highways and Bridges Committee o f which the duty i s to hav e charge
o f o nd is o . all r ads and bridges , a well the duty perf rmed
x o o o - The e cellent st ne pr vides abundant r ad metal , and
o s o s s o o o the chief r ad , th e triking acr ss the c unty fr m n o rth to s o uth and th o s e traversing the tw o great dales
o n o s s the west , are splendid . But in the c untry di trict , — where traffic i s small and m o ney for ro ad making i s COMMUNICATIONS 1 27
o o o o . V scarce , the surface is ften l se and st ny The iew of the grand ruins at Rievaulx o r Byland i s th e reward
f f o o o a sti f walk . Interc urse acr ss the ridge between
i s Swaledale and Wensleydale restricted . The slight
o o Buttertub s ffo o depressi ns , like that ver the , a rd nly steep and r o ugh m ountain r o ads ; even that acro ss the
o of R o l wer end the dale , between ichm nd and Leyburn ,
B utte rtub s P as s
s or Th e tasks the cycli t the walker . bl o ck o f m oo rland in the east , intersected as it is by narro w steep - banked
, ffi to dales is particularly di cult traverse . Even the o o S best r ad , tha t fr m t o kesley to Whitby by way o f o o h o n Guisb r ugh t r ugh Bilsdale , is decidedly tryi g, and
o o l that which runs fr m Pickering al ngside the rai way , th ough utilised b y pilgrims to Lastingham and the 1 28 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
s o f o Brid e s tones o n o Killing Pit G athland , and the Egt n
Mo o i s o o o r, little better than a r ugh m untain r ad . With the advent o f m o t o r traffi c the ro ad s are rec overing much o f their l o st imp o rtance and s o me o f th e ol d o no w o s o o s c aching inns are r u ed fr m their l ng leep . But by far the m o s t imp o rtant mean s o f c ommunicati on i s o s o R the railway . In s me sen e the N rth iding is the
o f fo r w as m 1 8 20 birthplace railways , it at Yar that in
o o of S o o and o the pr m ters the t ckt n Darlingt n met , and Tho m as Meynell o f Yarm was chairman o f the s o y o o u r o cheme . It is nl right theref re that c unty
o o h s o f ffi sh uld be well end wed with t is useful mean tra c .
fo r few —o s Except a privately wned line , like that
o o —o re o o to o t o which c nvey s ir n fr m the Kilt n mine Br t n , — the No rth Ea s tern Co mpany h as the m o n op oly o f rail
Its o c o mmunicati o n in the riding . main line fr m Yo rk thr ough Thirsk and No rthallert o n to Darlingt o n acro ss the Tees is reputed to be the fine s t permanent way I n
o o o o f o f the w rld . Al ng it , ver the level acres the Vale
o s s s o . Y rk , the expre e run at m re than a mile a minute
m o o o s The p . . fr m Darlingt n c ver the 44k miles
o F o to Yo rk in 43 minute s (6 1 7 miles per h ur) . r m the main line are thro wn o ut spurs to the we s t and l o ops
s o s o s to to the east . We tward g es a pur fr m Thir k
o o o o o o s Ma sham . An ther fr m N rthallert n f ll w the Ure up Wen sleydale and climb s up the Pennine fell s until o n the bleak and l o nely m o o rland at Hawe s Juncti o n — said to be the highe s t s tati o n in England it meet s the
o o main Midland line . A third Spur fr m Eryh lme
o of S penetrates to Richm nd at the gate waledale , but
COMMUNICATIONS 1 3 1
o o rugged m rland , alternating with delightful stream and
o o o s o wo o dland scenery . Acr ss the m r fr m Whitby the
o ut and Esk has carved a natural gradient , railway and ro ad here foll o w the river till they dro p int o the plain — o f Western Cleveland and reach the Tees side t owns . — Fro m No rthallert o n a line to the n o rth east meets the
— o Tees side branch at Yarm . In the industrial regi n we
o o f o h o w u have a netw rk lines , sh wing seful a hand maid the railw ay is to the many industries that depend
o o f C up n the mineral wealth leveland . The Ouse fo r s ome di s tance ab o ve Yo rk is navigable fo r s Fo s to barges , and the luggish s has been canalised
S o o f the military camp at trensall , the Aldersh t the
o . o o f s to o n rth The l west reach the Tee , , has been ’ c o nverted by man s energy and skill int o a deep ship
o f l . o i n S o canal But this we have a ready sp ken ecti n 9 .
2 3 . Ad m in is trati o n and Di v i s io ns An i e n an M c t d o d e rn .
Little is kn ow n of the sys tem o f go vernment o f the
o ur o Brigantes , the early dwellers in land , but we kn w
oo o o f wh o a g d deal ab ut that the Angles , gradually o in f rmed their settlements here Deira . The unit group “ ” or o w as o o o e c mmunity a t wnship , c rresp nding to th later parish . They had their dwellings within an
o o r tun o encl sure , , that pr tected them fro m the evil
o o H w e disp sed and their herds fr m wild beasts . ence S G YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDIN — have many t o wn names end ing in ton o r d onfl No rth
o M o fo r s o o f o allert n and alt n , in tance , b th places imp rt
o s o f o s ance in R man time . The men the t wn hip met
o o s o s o s o s o o r at s me c n picu u natural bj ect , me big t ne
o o to s s ff is lated tree , in rder discu their a airs and make
b — s o f k o o s their y laws (law the y r t wn hip) . All adult o
s o s male might attend and take part in the deliberati n , an d it is a m o st intere s ting fact that s ome years ago
to s o a partial return was made thi primitive meth d , the settling of public questi o n s in a meeting o f all c o n
1 8 s s s M cerned . Parliament in 94 e tabli hed Pari h eetings fo r 0 0 To - places with fewer than 3 inhabitants . day ,
o — in s theref re , all men in such places secluded village — like La s tingham o r Old Byland may meet in the
o o o o to o ff s s o sch lr m manage l cal a air , ju t as their f re
o a o in o fathers met l ng g the pen field . The units were further gro uped fo r c o nvenience o f “ ” “ ” o o s o r s o r o g verning int hundred ward , in the N rth “ ”
o s . Riding , int wapentake The hundred may have
o s s o r been an area riginally ettled by a hundred familie , — s imply a hundred hides o f land a hide being a p o rtio n
Mo o o f o 60 to 1 20 . fr m acres st likely, h wever, the name signified a district that was called up o n in time o f need to furnish a hundred men capable o f bearing “ arms ; fo r b o th the Scandinavian wap entake ( weap o n ” rd t ouching ) and the N orman wa are military terms . w o s They suggest that , hen danger threatened , an rgani a
o r o o f tio n exi s ted for defence . F the purp se dealing with min o r o ffences against the laws the No rth Ridin g is “ still divid ed int o eleven wapentake s and the libertie s
1 3 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
s o s s o s deal with the m st div er e que ti n , with the health of o o — the pe ple , their educati n , and their well being in
o s vari us ways . The member of the s e governing b odie s
o so are elected by the pe ple , that we all have influence
of ou r o in the rule l calities . The ast o nishing - growth o f ou r large t o wns during the last two centuries has led to the creati o n o f a new
o f o o M o s o area l cal g vernment . any t wns have great a number of inhabitants that a separate and independent
o o s c uncil is needed in them . These large t wn have ,
o Co o o theref re, been made unty B r ughs , which are independent and have all the p o wers o f the Co uncil o f the County ; the Lo rd Mayo r o r Mayo r in each case
o o f f o perf rming the duties the Sherif . The N rth Riding
o ne Co o o M o its has unty B r ugh , iddlesbr ugh , and in
ff o o no o a airs the C unty C uncil has auth rity . Other
o no t o o o to t wns there are , quite p pul us en ugh be created
Co o o s ffi o to for unty B r ughs , but u ciently imp rtant have
o o o n o o Co m st purp ses their w g verning b dy . The unty Council has s o me auth ority over them th ough m o st l questi o ns are settled by the Mayo r and his To wn Counci .
M o o o The unicipal B r ughs , as these t wns are called , in
o S o o o - o n- the N rth Riding are carb r ugh , Th rnaby Tees ,
o o o o and Richm nd . Other t wns , like N rthallert n , are
o f o f o the centres Urban Districts , and the rest the c unty
is divided int o Rural Districts . The County Co uncil h old s its meetings in the County
o s Hall at No rthallert n . When it assemble in its quar
terl s o s s s s o s y meeting , it c n ider and discu se rep rt and s autho rises plans suggested b v i ts Co mmittee . These ADMINISTRATION AND DIVIS IONS 1 3 5
o to o ne o r o o f Co o smaller gr ups , m re which every uncill r
o o o . bel ngs , are the active w rking b dies They have frequent meetings and their members must give up a great deal o f their time to pro m o te the c o mfo rt and happine s s o f tho se wh o m they represent .
c to a a e an d o w n H a M e s b o V i ri S qu r T ll , iddl r ugh
I The North Riding County Co uncil c o ntains sixty
Co o uncill rs elected by the ratepayers , and twenty Aldermen (a third o f that number) elected by the Co un c illo rs Co o r . fo The uncill rs serve three years , the Aldermen fo r six years ; in o ther respects all have the
o same p wers and duties .
Tw o o o o o ther g v erning b dies must be n ticed , the
s o f o o o is to s ee Guardian the P r, wh se duty it that the 1 3 6 RKS IRE N R H I I YO H , O T R D NG
o ld d o no t s ff o th e and infirm u er pri vati n , and great
o W s s o f central auth rity, the Parliament at e tmin ter ,
o o s i s o which the C unty C uncil it elf nly the delegate . The di s trict attached to the pari sh church was o nce
fo r o f oo fo r the unit the care the p r ; but later , the sake o f o o oi o s ec n my, parishes were j ned int larger area called
o o o s — u o s P r Law Uni n . There are twenty three such ni n in the riding .
s s i ts s wh o o s o f o s Be ide peer sit in the H u e L rd , the No rth Riding s end s six members to the H ou s e o f
Co o Fo o f s i i si o s o f mm ns . ur the e are elected by d v n the c ounty o utside the large t owns o f Middlesbrough and
S a o o s o o to old o f c rb r ugh , and the e c rresp nd the Knights the S o o o h o hire . The f ur c unty divisi ns are Ric m nd s s M o o hire , Thir k and alt n (including strangely en ugh
Ains t o o C the y ar und Y rk) , Whitby, and lev eland ; the
o o latter smallest in area but densest in p pulati n . Of
' tw o o o o o to the b r ugh members , c rresp nding the
s o S o Mo o one burgesses first umm ned by im n de ntf rt ,
o o f M o o ne is elected by the v ters iddlesbr ugh , and by
o of S o o th se carb r ugh .
n r f h e Co n . 2 4 . Th e Ro l l of Ho o u o t u ty
One canno t indeed claim for our c ounty s ome o f the great barons that have been at o ne time o r an o ther
o of S o C ass ciated with the riding . Bruce kelt n astle ,
o w as o s o o f where King R bert Bruce b rn , the ance t r the hero king o f Sc o tland and s o o f ou r o wn r oyal hou s e ; the “ — ” p owerful Mowbray ; the King maker Warwick ruling
1 3 8 S E D YORK HIR , NORTH RI ING
s s Whitb y i as pr o ud o f Caedm o n as o f i t abbey .
wh o o v s The Venerable Bede , ften isited La tingham and
hi s s o w as o Whitby, tells t ry . He a lay br ther , an aged
who o s o uneducated peasant , tended the h r es and xen bel onging to Whitby Abbey ; and n o man s eemed less
to o o s th e likely bec me a p et . When at the fea ting cu s t o m w as o bserved that all sho uld sing in their turn he w o uld depart to hi s l o dging when the harp appro ached
s to hi s o ne s him . Having een cattle evening he lept and
s oo his dreamt . One t d by bed and hailed him by name , ” C o so C o aedm n , sing me mething . Then aedm n declared “
o s s s o . his inability . Yet th u can t ing me mething ” “ s S fo r s " . What hall I ing said he ing me the
o f s beginning creature . Then the unlettered man was
to o o n o o s s enabled make p etry , and the m rr w Abbe Hilda t o o k him int o the m o na s tery where he spent the
s re s t o f his life in learning and in c o mp o sing p o em . Here are the fir s t four line s o f his s o ng ; it will be
o no t h as n ticed that they are rhymed , but that each tw o o r m o re wo rd s beginning with the s ame letter
w e sc ul an he rian he o fo nri e s W e ard N u / c ,
t m iht an h i m o d e tho nc M e od e s e / d s g ,
a W uld o rfaed e r sw a h e w und ra ehw ae s wer ; / g ,
r hte n o rd o nste ald e . ec e D y , /
No w o to o f ( ught we praise the guardian heaven , the
of C o o o o f might the reat r and his wisd m , the wisd m the
o o s o f h ow o gl ri u father men , and tell he , the eternal L rd ,
app ointed the beginning o f every wo nder . ) William Wo rd swo rth and his sister s pent much time in the No rth Riding : o n the r o ad between Leyburn and J o h n W ycl i f 1 40 S RE YORK HI , NORTH RIDING
Richm o nd i s the bro ken well ab out which he wr o te the ” his o o pathetic Hart Leap Well , and s nnet ab ut the
o o ne w as Hamblet n Hills is a fine . He married in
1 Sir al te r o too o o S o 8 0 2 . W S Br mpt n ( awd n) church in c tt , , ” l o ved the c o unty : the Ro keby County was th o roughly ' kn own by him ; Whitby and Abbess Hilda ap p e ar in
Marmi on erv aulx A o f o , and J is the bbey Pri r Aylmer
l oan/J oe . n o o in Dicke s visited B wes , where he f und the
o o f Mr S s Ni c b ol o s Ni c klz b Fo r riginal queer in y . twenty “ o 1 8 0 S S w s o f years fr m 9 ydney mith , ittie t Englishmen ,
o o f Fo s o was rect r at the little village t n , and Laurence
S Co o S o terne has made xw ld and handy Hall fam us . The great painter Turner delighted in No rth Yo rkshire
of s Fo of o scenery and his pictures Ay garth rce , Richm nd ,
o s and of Rievaulx are am ng his be t . At Pickering w as b o rn Francis Nicho ls o n ( 1 753 o ne o f the fo unders
o f Co o So 1 8 0 wh o o the Water l ur ciety in 4, , th ugh never
o f or attaining the height Turner Girtin , was happy in
o f his o depicting the riv er scenery c unty . “ o o o f o o J hn Wyclif, the m rning star the Ref rmati n ,
o o f o s w as earliest and in s me ways greatest the ref rmer ,
o o 1 2 f b rn ab ut 3 5 in Wyclif e , the pretty village by the tree
M Co shaded bank o f the upper Tees . iles verdale ( 1 488
o R o f o Sprang from the N rth iding . He was C ver
o f Co dale, the secluded and delightful valley the ver that
to ern d e To h runs from Middleham up Wh si . him and is Bible of 1 533 good judges attribute much o f the beauty
1 1 o s of the autho rised versi on of 1 6 . R ger A cham
1 1 —1 68 o s o o f 779 3 S c olemas ter ( 5 5 5 ) the fam u auth r , the friend and tut o r o f Queen Elizabeth and Lady Jane
1 42 S R YORK HI E , NORTH RIDING
w as o n s his w as Grey, b r at Kirkby Wi ke , where father
s o f o o f o o in the ervice the Scr pes B lt n .
s o f C s o Fo x s In the evil day harle II , Ge rge , the turdy
s s to S . o o Quaker , taught in the N rth Riding ; and vi it r car
o o u C s s o o s b r gh a tle are h wn where , attacking th e in high
s w as s o oo o to se a place , he impri ned in a r m pen the s o that the water came o ver my bed and ran ab out the ” o o w as to s r m , that I fain kim it up with a platter . His fo llo wer s were o nce many in the dale s and his
o s o f s t o meth d plain peech were , and are , imita ed all v er the riding . i On Ea s by Mo o r in the Clev eland Hills is erected a
o to C o o o s fine m nument aptain James C k . The Y rk hire
o o o fo r to o f lk justly h n ur this great man , him m re than to any o ther perso n we ow e ou r p o s s e s si o n o f Au s tralia
Z o o f and New ealand . He emb died the best qualities
o s w as s a Y rk hireman , daring yet prudent , hrewd and
a o s s h rd w rking , kilful and enterpri ing, and he had what
an o f i s so o u r o o . greatly v alued in c unty, y am unt grit He ' o to o Rid in w as o M o bel nged entirely the N rth g, b rn at art n “ ” 1 2 8 o o o C o in 7 , had his sch ling at Ayt n ( anny Yatt n
o w as to o the pe ple call it) , and apprenticed a w rthy
s o o f grocer at Staithes . When he left the di tributi n gro cerie s fo r a m o re strenu ou s life at s e a it w as from
s o o Whitby he ailed , and the abbey t wn pr vided him
o with the ve s s el in which he made his greate s t v yage . By no mean s to be omitted fr om o ur list are the m o dern captain s o f indu s try wh o have made the
r o o Middle s brough dist ict ren owned . Pr minent am ng them were Messrs B olck ow and Vaughan to wh om i s ROLL OF HONOUR 1 43
C mainly due no t o nly the wo rking o f the leveland — iro n s eam but al s o the impr o ving o f the furnace s so that
To s o iro n pro ducti o n 1 8 greatly cheapening . them al is due the applicatio n o f the s tudies o f Gilchrist and
o wh o o C o o Th mas , sh wed that the leveland ir n , th ugh
o o o o o c ntaining ph sph rus , c uld be made int excellent
to o Si r Low thian o steel . Here , , Bell devised impr ve
S i r L o w th i an B e l l
ment s I n i ro n pr o ducti o n that have been ad opted every
o o s o f s o where , th ugh m t his experiment were c nducted
o n o s of Mr o at Clarence the ther ide the river . Th mas
M of o f eynell Yarm , the first chairman the first railway ’ o s o s M o s c mpany, mu t be acc rded a hare in iddlesbr ugh
s o o - o f o s o s greatness ; als , c urse , mu t J seph Pea e and
his o c — ass iates , the far sighted and enterprising Quaker
e he o f o syndicate that ch ri sh ed t infancy the new t wn . H W 2 5 . T E C HIE F T O N S AND VILLAG E S o r T HE RT N O H RID IN G .
(T h e figures in brackets after e ac h name state the popul ati o n o f
a a o n to th ns o f 1 1 1 o a t the pl ce cc rdi g e Ce u s 9 . Th se t h e e nd o f each paragraph refer to the pages o f thi s book in
th a s r n o n which e pl ce a e me ti ed . )
A nd e rb S te e e o n the S a f . o i y p l w le , 3 m W .
o a o n is a asan l a ns a s N rth llert , p le t vil ge where We leyd le merge
a s its na f o its o ns o s i nto the pl ai n . It t ke me r m c picu u church
an o f the is fine o a o s a s pire . The ch cel church Dec r ted w rk imil r
o n pp to a at a o . . 1 8 th t P trick Br mpt ( ,
a a m o f o o and s Al n e vill ge 6 a E . B r ughbridge we t o f the F o rest of G al tre s h as some notable N o rm an w ork i n i ts f a o . church , p rtly built brick
1 a s o n - fa n a Am p l e forth ( 70 ) is t e built rmi g vill ge 4 m . W H o n th e s o o f the Ha o n H s o a s S . o f s . elm ley l pe mblet ill t w rd
a i s the n n its the Vale o f Yo rk . Ne r Be edicti e Abbey with
o th e o s o an o an Ca o s a s n in c llege , m t imp rt t R m th lic e t bli hme t an and the o f Stud fo rd n are York shire . Byl d Abbey camp Ri g
no t far o ff .
i n ns a A s k rigg a pretty tow n Upper We leyd le . It w as o n fa o s for o - a n and for n n s ce m u cl ck m ki g k itti g , but the e
T w o o ld a i ndu stries are now o u sted b y m achi nery . C rolean
fa th - n and the is o f n a h o u se s ce e bull ri g church , which Perpe dicul r p date . ( .
1 46 S R D YORK HIRE , NORTH I ING
B a nb ri d e a a a o s to s i g pretty d le vill ge cl e A krigg ,
' was th n zd um T h o n o e Rom an stati o Vi ros . e R m an camp o Br ugh
H the o a a o s s f s to n o n the a n and ill , r d cr the ell I glet , vill ge gree th e s o r th f n s o f n s . pp 2 s a e e . 8 8 t ck chie thi g i tere t ( , 5 9 , 9 ,
B e d al e ( 1 a brick - built m arket tow n o n a little feeder
f h U re at the foo o f ns a S W f o a o n o t e . . . o t We leyd le 7 m N rth llert , pp h n s a o n . 1 1 as a fine a s . E rly E gli h church , with l ter additi ( 3 ,
B o o s b e c k a b u sy iro nsto ne mi ni ng to w n in th e f Sa an o ns o n s . S . o b n Clevel d ir t e di trict 3 m lt ur . T h e railw ay
f Sa b n to G s o o as s s o . 1 o . r m lt ur ui b r ugh p e thr ugh it (p p 7 ,
B ow e s th e s o f o an Lamatrae is a b a a (5 77) ite R m , le k vill ge
W f a na as o n the o an oa and th e o e n S . . o C 4 m . B r rd tle R m r d m d r
o n o an w a othe b o s railway o ver Stai nmo r i t Westm orl d . Here s D y ’ kl b Its s H all o f Dicke ns s Nic bol as Nic e y . qu at N orm an castle is pp a oo a o f an a . ( . 8 1 0 0 1 1 1 2 g d ex mple e rly keep 9 3 , 9 , , 4 , 9 ,
W . o f S a o o i s a fa n B m n 1 1 2 . S . ro p to ( 8 ) 7 m c rb r ugh , rmi g vill age o n th e ro ad and railw ay fro m th at w ateri ng pl ace to p n . Pickeri g . (
Bro m p to n - i n - All e rto n s h ire a farmi ng vill age
f a a 1 an o th e . on th e Ncirthall e rto n and Yarm br ch r ilw y 5 m N .
of the fo o n i s fa o s for its Sa o n h o - a s ( rmer t w , m u x g b ck three
i ’ - an fra me nts of te n o s a s the fin s i n n an p e rfec t d g ther ) , perh p e t E gl d , pp and two Sa o n o ss s . . x cr e ( 74 ,
Br tto n 0 i n o ns 6 8 0 i n a s an o n - n n o (3 7 3 t w hip , 7 p ri h) , ir mi i g
and iro n - smelti ng tow n i n th e Clevel and i ndu stri al regi o n o n
f Sa n . S E . o the coast railway 2 m . ltbur
C as tl e to n with D anb y ( 1 1 a pretty farmi ng vill age o n f f t an o o s 6 . S E . o the upper E sk near th e edge o he C level d m r m
w as of an in a s Cas o n s an s G ui sboro ugh . It D by , which p ri h tlet t d , p Moorl and Paris/J . . th at Canon Atki nso n wrote Forty Years i n a ( 9
1 48 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDI NG
C tt r k a e c . S E . o f o n was a o an i 4 5 m Richm d , R m stati o n and an impo rtant po st o n the Watli ng
S and is now a n to f a a n o o o affi treet, w ki g li e g i thr ugh m t r tr c .
Its fine i s o n a pp . . 1 0 0 church wh lly Perpe dicul r ( 9 9 , ,
Co ath am a o n n a a s a dj i i g Redc r , with which it m ke / s n o n is a a s as s o f s o and is i gle t w , re lly e ide uburb Middle br ugh ,
o n the o o f the n s a o n gr wi g with gr wth i du tri l regi . O n Co atham ” a s s are n n sa s o n o th e o o f m r he a cie t lt wyche , ce w rked by Abb t G p ui sborough . ( .
C oth e rs ton or C oth e rs to n e a a a f , little vill ge be uti ully
a n a th e n o n o f th e a and th e s N W pl ced e r j u cti B lder Tee 3 % m . . o f a na Cas is fa o s fo r its s s and was fo B r rd tle , m u chee e , rmerly
k r pp 2 fo r it l a s . . s O i e ( 6 ,
1
Co x w o d . S E . o f s in a v al l l 737 m Thir k , rich e y
n a o n s sa s S e n w as o n th e o o f s u der H mblet Hill y t r e , l g h me thi
w ho w as a and at S an a witty writer cur te here , here h dy H ll he
n i s i n s a p o Tr r S and a s . . wr te ist am b y . Byl d Abbey thi p ri h (
f as n o o n th e s . o n C rayk e 2 m . E E i gw ld we ter edge o f the Ho ward ian s w as 1 8 a of th e o a n of the Hill , till 4 4 p rt d m i
- p Pri nce bi s h o ps o f Durh am . ( .
Cro ft where th e m ai n N o rth E aster n l i ne crosses the
its n a s n o a now a s s o s s n . Tee i t Durh m , attr ct vi it r by mi er l pri g
Its n s n o ss s s s o an a n s and i tere ti g church p e e N rm , E rly E gli h ,
o a o o f w as th e o n the s o s Dec r ted w rk . Cr t Bridge p i t where Bi h p
n s o f Durh am entered o n their po s ses s io .
f n o n the so n W . o N . Cro p ton 4 m . Pickeri g uther o s o f th e no - as n oo s i s n a Ca o n Ca utlier rth e ter m r , e r wth r e mp , fo fi a o n i n the m o st co mplete rem ai ns o f a Ro m an rti c ti the
o n c u try .
1 5 0 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
H - aw e s a pleas ant sto ne built to w n o n the i nfant
U re i s the ma - a for ns a Hard raw , rket pl ce Upper We leyd le .
o is a a a and Butte rtub s ass a s o th e to F rce mile w y , P le d ver ridge in S a a . . 1 8 2 2 8 6 2 1 2 8 Muker w led le (PP , 3 , 7, 5 , , 75 ,
H e m s l e a s o n - o n o n the R e no t l y pretty t e built t w y , far f o . H s C as ns n s ti r m Rievaulx Abbey . elm ley tle rui , i ide Du
o was on o n the of n a sa s c mbe Park , ce w ed by Duke Bucki gh m tiri ed
n and o pp 1 1 . . 1 6 2 0 1 by Dryde P pe ( , 9 , 9 4 , 7, 4 ,
H nd e rw e l 2 1 Run s w c k and S ta th e s a i l ( 4 9 with i i ) , a W o n th e o as I N . . of 2 O . . . 6 vill ge c t m Whitby (p p 3 , 3 , 4 4 ,
8 2 1 4 5 , 4 7) 4 ) 4 9 ) 5 0 ) 6 , 8 0 , 8 ,
H untingto n ( 1 3 2 6) i s a quiet old farmi ng vill age o n the
o ss no a o f o F 3 m . rthw rd Y rk .
K rb Mo ors d e 1 6 n n Ke l d h ol m e i y i ( 5 7, i cludi g , where
i s a C s an nn a s o n - re d - o n there i terci Nu ery) , t e built , tiled t w , s an s o n the o . f n . T he Sa o n 6 . . o t d D ve % m W N W . Pickeri g x s n o f a p s n is n n n a f . 1 hri e L ti gh am co ve ie tly re ched rom here . (
K r l o f K oo s i k d a e a ti ny vill age a mile W . irkby M r ide i s fam o u s for its Saxo n Church with an i nscri b ed sun - di al o ver th K a a un e so oo and s Sa o n o s s s . uth d r everal x cr e irkd le c ve ,
a in a s o n a n a the a i s as fa o s fo r e rthed lime t e qu rry e r vill ge , m u
i f 1 1 1 ts o s s s as for its . . 0 0 1 il the church dial (p p 4 , ,
L as tingh am a l o nely vill age o n th e north - east
W f n h a fa o s Sa o n o nas N . o ad o o s 6 . . m r m Pickeri g , m u x m tery
i o o f n w h o s ts s s . as n a C which Bede , tell t ry , te vi ited L ti gh m hurch pp h an . 1 1 1 1 2 as a no a o . 1 2 t ble N rm crypt ( , 7, 3 ,
L e b urn th e a a o f o ns a i s y c pit l l wer We leyd le , prettily pl aced above th e U re o n the limesto ne pl atform called Leyburn
S a affo rd s m a nific e nt s of the a . . 1 8 h wl , which g view d le (PP , 4 3 , CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 1 5 1
o n c oas a a . S . E . o f Sa L o ftus the t r ilw y 4 m ltburn , its n is an ancient tow n devel opi ng thro ugh iron mine s i nto a
pp 1 an s a . . 6 import t indu tri l centre ( , 4 5 , 75 ,
Malton N e w o n the a , Derwent , midw y between
o and Sc a o o w as the s of o a . is Y rk rb r ugh , ite a R man c mp It the s n s s fo r so n a o f of bu i e centre the uther p rt the Vale Pickering , “ and fro m its large race - h orse stables is called the Newm arket
L e y b urn U l s h aw B ri d g e o f th o w e N rth . M alto n as an ancie nt bo ro ugh sent t o member s ” to o a f 2 a s the M del P rli ament o 1 9 5 . Edw rd Burke repre ented
f o 1 to 1 s s to t it r m 78 0 79 4 . Castle H oward lie 5 mile h e eastward .
Ol d Ma ton o ff has as its a s r a a f l , a mile , p ri h chu ch be uti ul
G o a pp 1 a o . 2 0 6 8 1 2 ilbertine Pri ry (d te b ut ( 4 , 9 , 3 , , 3 ,
Mars k e 2 ) n a a is ro w m th e ( 9 5 5 e r Redc r , like it g g with
o o f - n an gr wth Middles bro ugh . Iron mi ing d catering for th e
n e as n n o f s o s th f o a o a s i cr i g umber vi it r are e chie ccup ti ns . M r ke
a a o f Z a is f o o s H ll (E rl etl nd) a beauti ul Car lean h u e . 1 5 2 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDI NG
Mars k e n e ar R c h m ond i s o n a o f the s a na i , beck me me n a its n o n the S e r j u cti with wale .
M rton a ( 1 2 3 9 ) is an anc re nt vill age no w beco mi ng a pretty
s n a a e n a to d s o a re ide ti l pp d ge Mid le br ugh . C ptai n Cook w as bor n and his o n an s s o n as oo to the S E . here m nume t t d E by M r 6 m .
r is ano Marto n o n the R e S W o f n The e ther y 4 % m . . . Pickeri g . 1 (p . 4 2 )
a k e t P a e M as h a M r l c , m
Mas h am m arket tow n o n the U re at the po i nt wh e re W f n ns a n th o f o . N . o o . We leyd le merges i to e V ale Y rk 8 m . Rip
o n o n o n a a n an ns A quiet c u try t w , built r u d l rge gree , with imme e
a n s fa Its c h as o an o . . 1 8 utum heep ir . hurch much N rm w rk (p p ,
M d d e h am so of n i n ns a is an i l uth Leybur We leyd le ,
n n - T he o an oa i teresti g sto ne built vill age near the U re . R m r d ’ ” - pp 1 1 and the K n a s as are no a . . 2 8 6 8 0 i g m ker c tle t ble ( , , ,
1 5 4 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
P atri c k B rom p ton a pleasant vill age i n Wensley d ale o n the ro ad betwee n Bedale and Leyburn h as a beautiful
o Dec rated church . (p .
Pi c k e ring an ancie nt m arket tow n that has give n its na to the a n so o f th e as n oo s and is the f me pl i uth e ter m r , chie
o n th a na o f its o an and a t w of e V le . The ve N rm E rly E ngl i§h
is o a a o f s s of f s s church dec r ted with w nder ul erie re coe . Pickeri ng Castle rui ns are tho se o f a castle o f N o rm an m aso nry upo n an
n s a o . T h e o n is fa o o s n E gli h e rthw rk t w a v urite t uri t ce tre . fp p
Re d c ar a th e s o o a s as ne r Tee m uth , a p pul r e ide
so fo r the s o s h as a o o s s f re rt Middle br ugh di trict, gl ri u tretch o n n n — sa d s . T h e iro i du stry is rapidly devel oping there are already — fo as f na s at s C o a and i s a f s n s a o n ur bl t ur ce We t ath m it i hi g t ti , the fis hi ng vill age fo rmi ng a strange co ntrast with the h and so me
- f th a n a a a n . pp 1 n s o e . 0 1 6 buildi g w teri g pl ce dj ce t ( , 3 , 3 , 4 4 , 4 7,
0 6 1 4 8 1 5 2 3 1 7 1 79 )
Ri c h m o nd o ne o f the m o st picturesque to w ns in no n an s an s n its o an as o n a o n rth E gl d , t d u der N rm c tle built m u d n a th a ro u nd which the Sw ale ru s . Pl ced at e g te o f Swaledale it
is al so d omi nate s the Vale o f M o wbray . There a good Pe rp e n f th d ic ul ar o o e G a s . n to o the t wer rey Fri r He ry VII , wh m
a o o f o a l a s o the na o n e rld m Richm nd ultim te y c me , be t wed me “ ” Sheen i n Surrey ; but th e Sweet La ss o f Richm o nd Hill w as
is a n o s o n . o n a o o . . 1 2 Y rk hire b r Richm d M u icip l B r ugh (p p 4 , 4 , 9 ,
S altb urn - b y - th e - S e a (3 3 2 2 ) is a m oder n and very
- h S a n a 11 1 . S E . o f a t e o n b au i ful w ri g pl c 4 R dc r , wh r k l e t te e e e e . e t So fine a an a Beck cuts its way thro ugh a deep glen . me It li g rdens a n H nsth e a ff a fo r ad d to its attr cti o s . ere begi gre t cli w ll which
pp 1 the o s o as i s no a . ( . 6 8 1 6 0 0 Y rk hire c t t ble 3 , 4 , 5 , 4 , , CHIEF TOWNS AND VILLAGES 1 5 5
S c arb o rough perh ap s the mo st beautiful of the
s as so s o f n a s s o two a s s a larger e ide re rt E gl nd , clu ter r und b y ep
ss o n c as s a s o rated by the huge buttre whi h the c tle t nd , but j ined
wa o fo by the new marine drive . It s impo rtant l ng be re it
n - In a o Hard rad a became a fashi onable wateri g place . 1 0 6 6 H r ld
Its s has a o fo ss s s ur burnt the c ity . ca tle been r yal rtre ince
to . Its S a s o fi i n fas o n rendered Henry II p water , c n rmed hi ’ S s A Tri to Scarborou b are o n o ne o a a by heridan p g , ly am ng gre t — number o f attracti on s inc luding a very interesti ng mu seum .
S a o o is a o o and s o ne to c rb r ugh Municipal B r ugh , return member pp the o us o f Co o s . . 8 2 2 2 6 8 0 H e mm n ( 7, , , 9 , 3 , 3 , 5 , — — - - 6 0 8 1 8 8 2 1 0 I 1 7 1 6 I I 1 1 6 5 7 , 79 , 3 ) 7 9 0 ) 9 7 9 4 a 9 , 4 , 9 ) 3 4 , 3 ,
W f o o s t N . . o o S k e lto n a little village 3 m . Y rk cl e
O s h as a a f s c a the u e , be uti ul little Early Engli h chur h , rem rkable f r f i p o the purity o ts style . ( .
- - S k e ton in C e v e l an d S o m . l l near kelt n Beck , 3 so - s o f S i s an m o s of o - n uth we t altburn , i p rtant eat ir n mini g ,
S o s w as fo th s a and iron and steel working . kelt n Ca tle rmerly e e t
o f the r fa . . 8 1 1 1 great B uce mily (PP 4 , 77, 9 , 4 ,
S e h ts 1 U l e b arnb n the E sk o n l ig ( 3 5 3 with gg y) , ear the and O n S s oo Whitby Pickering road . leight M r are the ” Brid e sto nes so c o s c s . , me uri u megalithi remain h nk S out b a m . . o f s o h as a 3 E M iddle br ugh , l rge
n a s - o pp o nd s . . 2 6 1 ir teel w rk ( , 7 ,
S tok e s l e an old ma o i n y rket t wn Leven Vale 9 m .
S . E . o f S o o s o s the nfl of s t ckt n , j u t ut ide i uence the indu trial regio n
o f C an . n s o and a o level d The Leve run thr ugh it, r ad acro s s th e
oo s o s a o m s i t pp s . . 1 6 2 6 m r thr ugh Bil d le j with Helm ley ( , , — Th irs k an o ld market to wn o n Cod Beck a little f of the S - i eeder wale h the fertile plain bel o w the Hambleton
2 2 W s . N. . o f o h as n a n s Hill , m Y rk , bee r ther u j u tly treated th e a . a as s s a m to s and by r ilway The m in line p e ile the we t , h o T t e m der n h irs k J unc tion seem s destined to o utstrip i n
o a the o o . T h e s S o w e rb y too imp rt nce m ther t wn uburb , 1 5 6 Y S ORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
ea s p o n an the an n o n s . T he a s ap r m re livi g th cie t t w , Thir k p ri h
’ is e a s the fin s a church p rh p e t Perpendicul r church in the ridi ng .
Th ornab - on - T e e s for So S o on y merly uth t ckt , is l argely a result o f the extrao rdi nary growth o f the i ndu stri al
o n . Is a o s o s o n o n o n W as f na regi It pr per u ir w rki g t w ith bl t ur ces ,
o n o s and s o s . i ir w rk teel w rk It s a Mu nicipal Bo rough .
Th ornto n l e Dal e o n o n o n a a Th r t Beck , tribut ry o f the n and s as o f P n o n the a a Derwe t, three mile e t ickeri g r ilw y to S a o o IS fa n a i n th e a of n . c rb r ugh , a q uiet rmi g vill ge V le Pickeri g
W h tb its s s a w th e i y (with uburb Ru w rp , bet ixt
a and no n sea s a s the o of the E sk at he ther the rther , t nd at m uth the s a e ward foot o f th e Clevel and m oors . Fam o u s fo r its rui ned a and its os s i s a so a fis n s a o n and h as so bbey cr , it l hi g t ti , me i trade . It s o f excepti o nal i nterest to th e hi stori an s i nce it w as
o o f ss a o f the o Ca on and a o f the h me Abbe Hild , p et edm , l ter
a a n I i n n s a f r C Coo . ts s s s o pt i k pier mu eum i tere ti g , e peci lly its fo ss s a Sa o n o n ns o n and o n s of il , x c mb with ru ic i cripti , b e
n an f o K pp 2 2 s a . . 8 6 6 0 exti ct imal r m irkd le ( , 9 , , 3 , 3 , 4 , 4 3 , 4 5 ,
8 6 _ 8 2 8 8 8 1 0 1 0 1 2 2 1 2 4 7) 4 1 5 71 3 1 75 O ) 8 ) 3 ) 7a 9 1 9 4 ) 3 1 5 7 ) 7)
1 2 1 1 1 1 9 , 3 , 3 8 , 4 0 ,
W to n - in - C e v e and n a the foo of s o n Nab il l l e r t E t ,
i - o f a f s in n n n o n . Its . S o o C 3 m . Redcar , the ir mi i g regi n level d c as o n the o o f the fa s ff for its tle , ce h me Bulmer mily which u ered
f w a s a o f the o s s a in the a o G a is no . h re Pilgrim ge r ce , e t L wther
T h e m oder n buildi ng is o n the rui ns of the earlier o ne . There i s
o f n . a s m all vill age called Wilto n 4 m . E . Pickeri g s u the Y arm an a ncient Tee s po rt 1 9 mile p river . ” a s to b e the a o f a a s for th e It cl im birthpl ce r ilw y , here U n t Sto ckto n and D arli ngto n s cheme w as i niti ated . der h e
n an of th e s Co ns an Co ss o n a e ergetic guid ce Tee erv cy mmi i , Y rm m a a a f at s n is far s ass its y h ve uture , but pre e t it urp ed by
pp 1 2 8 1 1 o n s . . 2 6 8 8 8 m der rival ( , 74 , 7, , , 3 ,
1 5 8 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
i 1 e a o f th e N o t R d n a e s o a F g. . Ar r h i i g cr ) c mp red
w t t at o f Y o k s e an d o f E n an d an d W a e s i h h r hir gl l .
P o at o n o f th e N o th R n c o a e d 2 . Fig . pul i r idi g mp r e an o f E n l an an d W a e s i n 1 1 1 wi th th at o f Y o rk s h ir d g d l 9 . DIAGRAMS 1 5 9
l a a l 6 k r N R d n 1 Eng nd nd Wa e s 1 8 Y or shi e 6 5 5 . i i g 9 7
L anc ashi re 2 5 54 We stm orl and 8 0
C a at e D h . o e n s t o f t e P o at n Fi g 3 . mp r iv i y pul i o to th e s i n 1 1 1 q . m . 9 . (E acb d ot rep res ents 1 0 p ers ons )
Fi g . 4 . Are a u n d e r C e r e al s c o mp are d wi th th at o f o th e r a e an i n th e N o t R d n i n 1 1 F rm d L d r h i i g 9 4 . 1 6 0 S YORK HIRE , NORTH RIDING
f e f C e a s . P o o t o n ate e as o e l Fig . 5 r p r i Ar ch i r i n th e N o t R d n i n 1 1 r h i i g 9 4 .
6 P o o t o n ate e as o f C t ate d an d n c t ate d Fig . . r p r i Ar ul iv U ul iv h N t n i n 1 1 L an d i n t e o r h R i d i g 9 4 .
C AMB RI D G E PRI NTE D BY
. B. PE ACE J , AT TH E U N I VE R S I TY PR E SS