Cruising Notices - Med E & S

CAUTION: The Cruising Notes on this website have been contributed by fellow yachtsmen and women. Information in the notes is selective and reflects conditions at the time of visiting. Reasonable endeavours have been made to ensure the accuracy of the information but it is not definitive, may be outdated and may be changed or revised without notice. The RCC Pilotage Foundation and the contributors publish these notes in the hope that they may be of some value to mariners but readers are reminded that the safety of a vessel depends on the judgement of the skipper who should assess all available information. To the extent permitted by law, the RCC Pilotage Foundation and contributors do not accept any liability for any loss and/or damage howsoever caused that may arise from reliance on information published in the Cruising Notes.

Adriatic E Brbinj 44 4.947 N 14 59.68 E Dominic Hurndall (Maya) - 01/11/2020

Although not the most interesting town to visit, Brbinj offers excellent shelter in all wind directions. We sat out a gale force sirocco on a mooring in relative comfort. The moorings looked in good condition, although the inner moorings were too shallow to accommodate our 2.6m draft. The outer moorings were in good depth and provided excellent shelter.

Croatia Sojourn Tax 42 37.88 N 18 5.532 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 15/07/2020

Information taken from the ACI website - discount on 2019 prices.

Sojourn tax lump sum has been reduced for boaters for 20% in 2020 According to this Regulation, boaters who paid the sojourn tax lump sum in 2019 for the period ending in 2020 are not required to pay the sojourn tax for the period that falls into 2020 If the period for which boaters paid the sojourn tax lump sum coincides with the period of COVID-19 Pandemic in the of the Republic of Croatia, the boaters can request either a pro-rata refund of the amount related to tourist tax they have paid for the period during which the declaration of the COVID-19 epidemic in the territory of the Republic of Croatia was in force, or they can request a proportionate extension of the time period for which the tourist tax has been paid. All requests for a refund or for the extension of the time period shall be submitted to the Croatian National Tourist Board Example rates 2019 2020

9-11.99mup to 3 days150,00120,00 up to 8 days350,00280,00 up to 15 days600,00480,00 up to 30 days1000,00800,00 up to 90 days2350,001880,00 up to 1 year3000,002400,00

Croatia 43 19.76 N 16 14.57 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 16/05/2020

Announcement on ACI Marinas website 16 May 2020:

The temporary ban on crossing the borders of the Republic of Croatia related to foreign citizens has been lifted for owners of real estate and vessels located in the Republic of Croatia and for the members of the owner’s immediate family. Foreign citizens being owners of yachts and boats located in the Republic of Croatia can cross the country borders upon presenting the documentation proving their ownership of a vessel, documentation proving that they are the users of a vessel (Charter Contract or Lease Agreement). Along with the documentation proving the ownership of the vessel, a berth contract and/or a confirmation of the nautical tourism port must be submitted confirming that the vessel is berthed at the respective port.

Upon presenting the required documents, foreign citizens shall be allowed to cross the state border and shall be registered by entering the place/address of their stay, contact phone number and period of stay – until the planned date of departure from the Republic of Croatia.

GENERAL EPIDEMIOLOGICAL MEASURES Foreign citizens are required to adhere to general epidemiological measures during their stay in the Republic of Croatia, as follows:

During the first 14 days following the entry into the Republic of Croatia, leaving the accommodation/vessel is limited only to absolutely necessary situations, carrying out the enhanced ongoing implementation of hygienic measures.

When leaving the accommodation for necessary purposes, it is recommended to wear a mask or a covering for the nose and mouth, to keep a physical distance from others (minimum 1,5 meters) and to practice good hand hygiene.

Wash your hands as often as possible using warm water and soap and/or use a hand sanitizer rubbing it well over the surface of your palms. Avoid touching your face, mouth, nose and eyes.

Avoid using public transport. When using the means of transport, it is recommended to use it alone or to share it only with the persons from the same household/accommodation.

Crowded areas and public gatherings should be consistently avoided.

During their stay in the accommodation/on board the vessel, the persons concerned prepare meals themselves, ie use food and beverage delivery services.

Payments are made by using non-cash card payments or online services.

Body temperature should be measured every morning. If it exceeds 37,2 degrees, it should be taken again after 10 minutes and if the temperature again exceeds 37,2 degrees, the person should stay in the accommodation/on board the vessel and contact the chosen general practitioner, if any (Croatian nationals), or a competent local epidemiologist.

In case of any symptoms of acute respiratory infection (cough, sore throat, high temperature, short breath/difficulty in breathing, loss of smell and taste), it is necessary to stay in your accommodation/on board the vessel and contact the chosen general practitioner, if any (Croatian nationals), or a competent local epidemiologist.

In case of sudden onset or severe, life-threatening symptoms, the person should contact the emergency medical services.

Foreign citizens can be assisted by marina staff when contacting the epidemiological services.

During their stay at the marinas, the boat owners are required to adhere to the specific epidemiological measures related to the stay at the marinas and referring to the interaction with marina staff, visits to the front-desk of the marina, the use of toilets, the use of supplementary services of the marina and movements at the marinas in general (marinas are required to officially publish the instructions and recommendations on their websites and display them at visible locations within the marina itself).

Self-isolation or quarantine upon arrival in the Republic of Croatia is NOT mandatory for foreign nationals. Murter, Croatia 43 49.32 N 15 35.71 E Eddie Young (S/Y Kantara) - 26/01/2020

Good wintering facilities ashore in 2 different marinas - Betina and Hiramina. Both have good engineering skills and support trades 'in house' or close by. If a spare part is not available there is an excellent machine shop called Dodic capable of manufacturing almost anything which is located between the two yards.

Croatia 42 40.03 N 17 48.69 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 03/09/2018

New yacht tax rates for 2019 attached.

Nisos Othonoi Old harbour 39 50.45 N 19 24.17 E Arthur George H Curtis (Confidence) - 30/08/2018

Our electronic chart had a no anchoring symble in the middle of the Old Harbour on Nisos Othonoi. This apparently only applies to the Northen part of the harbour. There were several yachts anchored within the breakwater in the Southern part of the harbour.

Nisos Othonoi 39 50.30 N 19 24.70 E Arthur George H Curtis (Confidence) - 30/08/2018

A new harbour has been established on the South East point of the Island. There is not much room. We went in to have a look but did not stay. A buoyed approach is from the South

Erikousa 39 52.65 N 19 34.72 E Arthur George H Curtis (Confidence) - 30/08/2018

A newly expanded harbour was opened in Erikousa in April 2018. It offers good protectoin from all directions of wind and has room for a good number of yachts. It appears to be well administered. Electicity and water are available. It offers a good overnight stop for yachts on passage between the Ionian and

Adriatic E - Dalmatia Ubli checkout 42 44.68 N 16 49.44 E Will PEDDER (Zorra) - 06/10/2017

Checkout for an early start from Croatia. The HM above the E quay will stamp your crew list for the folllowing day. He is open 0900 - 1300 and 1730 - 2000. The poolice have to check passports just prior to leaving, and will arrive if summoned by phone - numbers on their cabin window on the W quay with flags. They take 20 mins to arrive, though will tell you 5-10 mins. We were frequently advised to proceed directly out of Croatian waters. No deviation, and certainly no anchoring after the police check. Kranje, Vrgada 43 50.92 N 15 30.69 E Will PEDDER (Zorra) - 23/09/2017

Kranje bay is now laid with buoys at Kune 20/m.

Nerezine 44 40.38 N 14 23.75 E Will PEDDER (Zorra ) - 18/09/2017

Convenient fuel berth away from crowds. Depth alongside 2.4m.

Adriatic E - Istria Porec 45 13.44 N 13 35.32 E Will PEDDER (Zorra) - 07/07/2017

No anchoring permitted in Porec bay. New buoy fields behind NW and SW breakwaters. 17K per metre. Incredibly loud disco on beach at SE corner persisted till 0500 on a Thurs night.

Africa N Orca attacks in Straits of Gibraltar 35 56.05 N 5 33.60 W Will Pedder (Zorra) - 04/08/2020

This is relayed from the Cruising Association, with permission.

I am a professional delivery skipper. In the past 2 weeks there have been 5 attacks by Orcas on sailing yachts up to 45 feet in the Gib and SWMed areas.

I was skipper of one of the boats attacked. All suffered damage to rudders and steering gear. 3 had to be towed into port.

My boat was attacked for 45 mins in a position 15 nm 280 degrees from Tarifa. We were 6 miles offshore heading east under power, it being flat calm with mod visibility.

Having been up during the night I was called on deck when the helmsman felt the wheel go hard over of its own accord. Initial thought was a fishing pot. I had the engine put to neutral then we saw a pod of 4 orcas was ramming our rudder. 2 of them got red antifouling paint on their foreheads from impact with our yacht.

Tarifa suggested trying to motor away from the orcas so we re-engaged the engine. The force of their ramming underway nearly dislocated the helmsman's shoulder and spun the whole yacht through 120 degrees in a few seconds.

I therefore shut down the engine and the echosounder. After about 15 minutes the orcas left and when they were clear we continued to Gibraltar (La Linea). The damage to our steering was sufficient to require a liftout to fix and abandonment of the delivery.

The other boats involved lost all or part of their rudders.

I have been in touch with Orca Research bodies and can find no reason for or defense against these attacks.

I have video of the attacks on my boat and photos of the damage on others.

Please promulgate this and make sure that as many as possible are aware of this danger in the Straits of Gib and approaches.

Keith Pettcian

GIBRALTAR - GENERAL INFORMATION 36 9.501 N 5 21.36 W Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

Due to its close proximity to and , Gibraltar is included in this edition. It offers an excellent base for provisioning, equipping the boat and repairs. Crew changes are easy due to the international airport with flights to the UK and Morocco. It is also a good base for wintering with its two sheltered marinas, and an ideal departure point for Morocco, just a few miles to the south, across the Strait of Gibraltar. It is also a convenient point from which to explore coastal and mainland Spain.

Described as the Gateway to the Mediterranean, Gibraltar, occupying a 3 mile by 1 mile peninsula, sits on the southernmost tip of Spain overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar with Morocco to the south, the Mediterranean coast of Spain to the east and the Atlantic coast of Spain, which stretches north west from the western end of the Strait. Gibraltar is dominated by the massive 426m limestone Rock of Gibraltar, itself an excellent landmark seen for many miles on approach. Directly across the Strait on a clear day can be seen Jebel Moussa, of similar size and stature to the Rock, and the distant peaks of the Rif mountains disappearing southwards into the mist.

Gibraltar has its own unique weather and tidal system. Winds usually blow strongly from the East (Levante) or West (Poniente) year round. During Levante, a thick ‘Levante’ cloud often hovers over the Rock. Gales can blow for several days, some bringing torrential rain in winter; but for most of the time the climate is sunny and pleasant, out of the wind. The heat in summer is mostly tolerable and there are occasional days of thick sea mist which usually lifts by late afternoon or evening but can sometimes last a couple of days.

Crossing the Strait from north to south and vice versa must be planned carefully due to strong, usually east going currents, and east or west winds blowing down the Strait. Guidance can be found in the Transiting the Strait of Gibraltar section (page 33). Sailing all year round is practical given the close proximity of marinas. Several sailing schools run RYA courses throughout the year.

Latest Update and Corrections for RCCPF North November 2019 36 8.236 N 5 21.38 W Richard Marsh - 14/12/2017

Click the link to download the latest supplement https://www.imray.com/files/book_supplements/IB0163-S.pdf or copy and paste it into your browser. MOROCCO - GENERAL INFORMATION 35 47.82 N 5 54.98 W Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

The two coastlines that fringe Morocco are very different in topography, tides and weather. The northern coast, just 8 miles across the Strait of Gibraltar at its closest aspect, enjoys a typically Mediterranean climate whereas the Atlantic coast becomes hotter and more arid the further south one travels.

The Rif mountains border the Mediterranean coast and the Atlas mountain ranges dominate the Atlantic coast. Both coasts are virtually untouched by tourism and the majority of ports that can be visited are small fishing communities. Many ports have been in use for thousands of years, evidence of which is reflected in the varied styles of infrastructure and fortifications put in place by the occupying powers down the ages and in particular along the northern stretch of the Atlantic coast. Others are larger new commercial harbours, providing good shelter, though not especially equipped for yachts. There are also a few excellent marinas along both the Mediterranean coastline and the Atlantic coast. See the Introduction on page 1 and the country introduction on page 35 for helpful insights on planning your cruise, formalities and socio-cultural guidelines and our online updates. Check also with your embassy for security updates or https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/morocco

44 The Atlantic coast of Morocco stretches from Tanger in the NW down to the Mauritanian border in the south, providing access to the fascinating interior of the country, which has the most impressive Islamic monuments in the Maghreb. Virtually the whole coastline as far as the port of Agadir, can be transited by day–hopping. However, continuing south to the Mauritanian border it is mainly edged by desert with no bays or safe anchorages, and facilities are sparse. Additionally, there are also political issues to contend with, making it unwise to visit south of Agadir. The weather is usually stable from June to October with light winds. The humidity increases as you travel south. Tides are referenced from Gibraltar and Casablanca respectively.

87 The Mediterranean (northern) coast stretches eastwards just north of Tanger to Saidia and the Algerian border and includes the ancient Spanish enclaves of and . Day-hopping is also possible along this coast. Generally, east or west winds alternate during the summer and often there is no wind at all between weather systems. In the winter, westerly winds predominate. Strong winds can blow up suddenly but are often short lived. An east-going current sets along the coast from Gibraltar, though often it is reversed in the area between Al Hoceima and Marina Smir. The tidal range is just 1m at the eastern end of the Strait, becoming negligible once 10M into the Med.

Tangier - New Tanja Bay Marina 35 47.02 N 5 47.61 W Kris Adams (S/V Taipan) - 18/09/2018

Tangier. For members information. We just spent 5 nights in the new Tangier Bay Marina. The welcome was extraordinary with 3 men to catch our lines. There is a big fuel dock just before the arrival pontoon. The Arrival Pontoon around to the right has nice big cleats but it is higher than normal docks, so fenders up. The office conducts arrival and berthing details and the Customs and Immigration office is adjacent. All the facilities are new. Arrival formalities took approximately half an hour. The new town is to the east as you leave the marina precinct and the Medina Souk Kasbar is to the right for various entrances. We found many spoke good English. Especially the dock staff. Physical security on the docks is lacking as its easy to climb but there are a lot of guards and the public is not allowed down on the waterfront where the boats are docked. We paid €20 per night inclusive. The bathrooms although new have a few design issues but nothing more than many marina bathrooms! The only downside is that the marina is Med mooring and it might be tight when its full but right now there were only 9 yachts and a few power boats. Over 200 berths available. We got a hammerhead so we were happy. Dock water is potable. Taxis are cheap. The marina has several good restaurants and a patisserie along its upstairs waterfront. I have a ubiquity Bullet high gain antenna and was able to receive good internet aboard. We will definitely be going back. Thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. Oh and clearing out, you go to the arrival pontoon and finalize formalities. This took 10 minutes.

Additional note from the author of NA: It is a huge relief to see from Kris Adams' report that this new marina is finally open for business and providing an excellent and speedy service at check-in and departure when completing formalities. The location of Tanger at the entrance of the Strait of Gibraltar and the Atlantic makes this marina the most important in Morocco, serving as a departure point for those heading south as well as those transiting towards Gibraltar and the Mediterranean. Open just in time to welcome the ARC fleet on its way south to the Canaries and across the Atlantic over the next few months and offering unlimited supply of fresh meat, fruit and vegetables. The ancient casbah just outside the port is well preserved and offers a view of Morocco's very ancient past. Several excellent ethnic hotels and restaurants are also within the walls of the ancient city. Morocco has been making huge strides to open up its market to yachting tourism, the King being a keen water- sportsman and yachtsman himself. http://www.tanjamarinabay.ma/en/la-reconversion/#1470929330701-1bc90f31-4c10

Bouregreg marina and the surrounding area, Morocco 34 1.651 N 6 49.29 W Douglas Byatt (Kestrel) - 01/10/2012

We arrived at the boat by ferry and train from Spain and left for once our engine problems had been resolved, so my notes refer only to the one place - Bouregreg marina and the surrounding area.

We spent 5 days in Bouregreg marina, beside the city of Sale. Its a very new looking place, and there were lots of empty berths, available for boats of anything from 20ft to up to maybe 65ft. I expect it will fill up in time. We had major engine problems due to I think some very mucky Moroccan diesel. A mechanic named Khalid runs a small workshop just over the road from the marina and he was able to get us going again. 4 days work and 3 new injector nozzles came to ~£140. He only speaks french and arabic, though thankfully this wasn't a problem for us. His mobile is +212666984685. He normally works on jetskis but had the required knowhow and was able to get the new injectors adjusted at a workshop in Sale.

Small rowing boats will ferry passengers across the river to Rabat for 2dh each way, they leave from the pier ~300m downstream of the marina. The the Rabat medina is well worth exploring and the old city walls are fun to look around too.

There is a large supermarket ~15mins walk from the marina. Its called Acima and is in the basement of the Sale train station. Follow the tram tracks uphill (north) from the marina and you will be guided straight to it, it's on the right.

North Moroccan Coast 35 13.60 N 4 10.2 W Will Pedder (Zorra) - 15/09/2015

Currents We confirm experiencing a strong westerly set between Al Jebha and Al Hoceima - up to 2 knots. Between Al Hociema and Melilla the current varied E or W, not noticeably linked to wind or tide. There was a set of 1.5kts S into the Baie Betoya, and 1.5 kts E around Ras Tleta Madari N of Melilla. Headlands were uncomfortably choppy even in light airs, but we could detect no quieter waters closer to or further from the headlands.

m'diq, Morocco Marjolein Doornenbal (Messenger) - 26/12/2018

We used this port as a port of entry. The officials were very friendly and did not ask for Bakseesh. They weren't very time efficient, but that was according to expectation ;) We were blown away by the hospitality of the locals. A local girl showed us around the village. The quay looks really fancy with the nice white and blue buildings, luxurious restaurants and the reserved yacht bassin for the King. Behind it you find the normal village with small foodstalls and a market. The local girl helped us with buying mobile internet (really reccommend buying a local simcard, its really cheap and easy), offered us a meal and bought me a Moroccan dress!!! She resisted any form of payback from our side. We allready love Morocco!

The port itself is quite crowded. You have to find space between the fishingboats and speedboats and moor bow/stern to. The spacious bassin after entrance on the right is reserved for the King and his friends. There is a shower and toilet, though not in really good condition.

El Jebha, Morocco 35 12.68 N 4 39.49 W Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 11/12/2018

The fishing port is indeed not expecting visitors, but you can stay in the protected bay of Maresdar, just around the corner. It is a 10-minute walk to the village, with a great view. The only difficulty is that there is no customs in this village, so you need to arrive here with an entry stamp in the passport. We did not know this, so it took some smiling and talking to be able to buy some bread and in the meanwhile see the village. After all, we stayed here for more than a week, due to engine problems. The local mechanics did a good and quick job in replacing the head gasket. The authorities did let us stay in the port because of this, and they let us enter the village without a stamp.

I really recommend visiting this authentic little village when you like to see places off the beaten path.

El Jebbha 35 12.49 N 4 40.00 W Will Pedder (Zorra) - 15/09/2015

Yachts are not now permitted in the harbour. They are directed to the fine anchorage at Mersddar (Cala Cangrejo in the Pilot Book). Think Lulworth Cove, without the swell. Important to register personnel and boat, either in the Gendarmerie if going in by dinghy or at the coastguard (Naval) on the heights W of the anchorage if walking over to town. The Gendarmes will be summoned there to register you. All very friendly. Good French. In the anchorage a web of fishing nets will be laid around you at dusk, and carefully unwound at dawn. We traded beer for fish. Take dinghy into caves at E promontory of bay, if you don't mind bats in the dark. Plenty of cafes in town, and shops (stalls) for essentials. But these are for locals, not of tourist standard. Works in the harbour are proudly funded by an American aid programme. We found the first camping gaz since Cadiz, though in a battered bottle and of dubious pressure. For €1.2 who cares?

Cala Iris 35 8.999 N 4 22.2 W Will Pedder (Zorra) - 15/09/2015

Anchoring off is forbidden; we found room alongside between fishing boats. The N mole is being extended (noisily!). No facilities save an unsavoury toilet on the quay, a couple of tea-houses, and a reasonable beach. Fuel (in cans) is for the fishing fleet only. Watching the fleet load and unload for its six-hour sorties (for anchovies) was interesting. The Gendarmerie retained our papers. Before their return on leaving, a dog search for drugs was done. Friendly enough. We were told that anchoring near Penon de Valez remains forbidden. Morocco 33 15.71 N 8 28.43 W Hilary Keatinge - 13/07/2017

News is coming in over the past weeks of increasing tension and an uprising in Al Hoceima in Morocco. Al Hoceima is situated on the north coast of Morocco between Marina Smir and Melilla. A very convenient stopping off point between the two Spanish enclaves of Melilla and Ceuta.

UK FO advice does not caution against going there, but keep an eye out for changes to the advice on: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/morocco/safety-and-security

Graham Hutt

Tabarka 36 57.53 N 8 45.64 E Marjolein De Bruijne (Messenger) - 29/12/2018

Addition to the 4th edition:

The extended harbour is finished, so it got quite big and it gives good protection in the strong North-West winds. The place for visitors is indeed alongside the quay in front of the Captainerie. But don't worry, there will be staff available to point a pace. The port got quite busy with fishingboats, diving boats and "pirate boats" so probably you will moor alongside other yachts or boats.

The charges changed and are the same in all the fishingports of Tunesia: 1 TD per meter per day + 2 TD per gross Ton per visit. so when you stay here 3 days for example, it will cost you about 12 euro's. That's a relief when you come from the European side :)

The authorities do ask for Bakseesh here again, but in a friendly and they don't force. I think it has to do with the economic decline since the Arabic Spring.

Most of the water and electricityboxes on the quay are broken, So the yachts need to make turns to connect to water or electricity, wich is not really a problem. The harbourmaster, Marhuan asks extra money for water, showers and electricity but i'm not sure if this is official ;)

The showers are there, and they work but it is in a delipidated state. Don't expect any luxury, but it is possible to enjoy a warm shower here. We found laundry from the harbourmasters family hanging crisscrossed trought the shower facilities, and fishing tackle in te floor :)

It is again possible to visit the Genoese castle on Tabarka Island. You can obtain permission trough the tourist office. (an experience on itself because of the overwhelmingly friendly Director)

Sidi Mechreg 37 10.14 N 9 7.605 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 28/12/2018

This port is finished now, and it is rarely visited by Yachts. This makes it very pleasant to stay because the locals aren't used to tourists and they really treat you as friends. People invite you to eat at their houses and give you a tour to the mountain etc.

The approach is difficult. When there is a swell of 1 meter of more (from the Nort or West) I would not reccommend to enter this port. The entrance is very narrow and half of it is silted, When there are waves the danger of surfing on the waves and hitting the pier is very real and next to that you will be more likely to hit the bottom. (A catamaran got shipwracked while entering this port in bad wheater, and we almost)

BUT When the sea is calm you should really visit this port, because it is just an amazing place. Approach from the North-West and stay close to the Northern pier. This side is at least 2 meters deep. When you doubt you can call the Garde National on channel 16 or the harbourmaster Mongi Abassi on tel: 98109806

Prices are the same as all fishing ports: 1 TD per meter per day + 2TD per gross Ton per stay on tax

Ile de la Galite anchorage 37 31.25 N 8 56.26 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 28/12/2018 addition to the 4th edition:

Several sailers told us that the Island is really worthwile a visit, but the bay is almost never calm. Expect to have some swell in the bay. (In our attempt with Nort-West wind we experienced the same)

Bizerte Marina- port du plaicanse 37 16.57 N 9 52.80 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 28/12/2018

The new marina in Bizerte is finished. It is huge and very fancy. There is plenty of room for visiting yachts and they are equipped to receive large size pleasure crafts as well.

APPROACH: VHF CHANNEL 9 & 16 The marina is situated on the same place as the old one. You find the entrance to the first bassin at 33.274407, 9.883499. Immidiately at your left hand you find the captainerie with the visitorquay in front where you can moor to check in. There is staff available 24 hours, and when this is your port of entry all authorities will come and visit you here. They will point you a berth afterwards.

CHARGES for a 12m yacht:

HIGH SEASON (may-October) Day TD 80.000 (about 22 Euro) Month TD 1000.000 (about 285 Euro)

LOW SEASON Day TD 50.000 (about 14 Euro) Month TD 1000.000 (about 185 Euro) electricity, water and showers included for short stays.

FACILITIES water and electricity laid to each berth Showers and bathrooms at the captainerie, luxurious and clean Fuel: not yet, it is planned to be build in front of the Captainerie Wintering is well possible in the water here. there is good guarding 24 hours. Laundry - in town wheater forcast - available from reception Hauling out - not yet possible. maybe in future. (you can do this in the fishingport La Goulette or the commercial port)

Cap Zebib 37 16.00 N 10 4.167 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 28/12/2018

The harbourmaster affirmed that the port has now a good depts and the entrance channel does not shift anymore. The ligths are working, so it seems to be safe to enter at night as well.

The pontoons have water/electricityboxes now which are available. you pay according to use.

HARBOURCHARGES: Same as in all port du peches. 1TD per meter per day and 2 TD per gross Ton per stay on Tax. (about 12 Euro's for 3 days)

Repairs: Crane is broken, not possible to haul out here.

Bizerte Zarzouna - fishing port 37 16.02 N 9 53.58 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 28/12/2018

This port is no longer open for yachts that just look for a cheaper alternative for Marina's. In case of emergancy, bad weather or hauling out it is possible to enter the port. To be sure you can best ask in advance: 72591190

Ghar el Melh 37 9.264 N 10 13.78 E Marjolein De Bruijne (Messenger) - 29/12/2018

It is a busy fishing port and there is not much room but yachts are welcome. Stay away from the corners where it is more shallow, and be aware of the anchorlines of the fishingboats. Tie up alongside one of the larger fishing boats.

The authorities in the port are very friendly and helpfull. there is transport from here to Tunis and Bizerte.

Facilities: There are 3 points with water and electricity, on each side of the port 1. Fuel is available in the west corner Hauling out is not possible, there is no crane, but there is a shipyard.

Charges are the same as every fishing port: 1 TD per meter per day and 2 TD per gross ton per stay (aout 12 euro's for a 3 day stay) Gammarth 36 55.26 N 10 18.49 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 22/01/2019

This fairly new Marina is big and fancy. It has plenty of room for bigger pleasure crafts, and some room for smaller yachts. It is spacious and clean and very secure. The port and surrounded villa's are only accessible for residents and yachtsmen. The staff is friendly and professional, they speak English, French and Arabic.

- The restaurants and cafe's aren't open yet, but they plan to open this year. (doubt if that will really happen this fast) - The showers and toilets are already in dilapidated state, due to poor quality. - The port is easy to enter and up to 7 bft it should not cause troubles. - With south winds some swell enters the first bassin, and with strong North-Westerlies there is some salt spray coming over the pier - Hauling out is possible, there is a 50 ton Travel lift and a ship chandler on location.

Sidi Bou Said 36 52.00 N 10 21.07 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 22/01/2019 addition to the 4th edition:

The entry of the port is still as described. At the moment of our visit there was a sandbank as en extension of the south pier. The waves were breaking till halfway the entrance. But no problems with entering when you follow the description as given in the book. Stay on the north side of the entrance, since the south side is silted.

In the port there are a few places where the quays collapsed. They are clearly visible, or when not marked with little yellow buoys. The quay that is marked as visitors pontoon in the book is collapsed as well, and fell quite a bit away from the original place. Keep well clear of the yellow buoys that mark the parts there.

This may sound as if this port isn't worth a visit, but I don't agree on that. The staff is very helpfull and friendly and they will guide you past the obstacles. The location of this marina is unique. When you cross the road that leads to the port, you find an ancient stepped footpath that leads all the way to the famous town of Sidi Bou Said. And the marina is very near to the ruins of Carthage that are definitely worth a visit! other changes: - the shipwrecks that should be at cap Carthage are probably gone, did not see them - the port is being dredged every 4 years - they promised to remove the obstacles this summer (2019) and place new floating pontoons - prices for 12m yacht: high season 83 TD per day, low season 56 TD per day + 10% tax - call them before you arrive in summer, because they are usually full - there is free WiFi in the port, especially good at the northern end of the marina.

la Goulette 36 48.49 N 10 18.54 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 22/01/2019

A fishing port that is open for visiting Yachts and has great repair facilities.

ENTRANCE The entrance of this port is in the bigger entrance of the Ferry port. Keep an eye on the traffic that is entering or leaving. Further then that no specific caution necessary. In the port you see a marina on the portside, but this is reserved for the army. You can find a place between the fishing boats.

REPAIRS In this port you find 2 ship chandlers and a shop that sells and repairs ship electronics. We had our Raymarine windvane fixed here for 38 euro's instead of the 500,00 Raymarine asked in Italy. We also had some welting to be done which costed next to nothing. There is a mechanic that fixes outboards and engines as well. In the village there is another ship chandler that sells more yacht related parts and INOX.

ASHORE: This place is known for the best fish in the area, so when you want to eat good fish this is the place to be. There is a very cheap train to Tunis, Cartage and Sidi Bou said so it is a good cheap alternative for the Marina's. ..

When you put some effort in showing your respect to the surrounding fishermen you can have a good stay here. They will keep an eye on your boat when you are away for the day, and be careful not to damage is. When you don't know them they can be quite careless about hitting your boat. When bad weather is expected all fishing boats come back to the port, and it is quite full. They are used to just bump into each other when finding their way into the berth, and seem not always to know that yachts are much more sensitive. It is advisable to guard your boat carefully when it gets crowded.

We had a great stay here, ate several times with the fishermen on their boats before they headed out for the night. It was a great experience!

anchorage around Korbous 36 50.43 N 10 34.21 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 21/02/2019

This area is beautiful to spend a few nights on the anchor. People told us that it is not possible during winter, but when you wait for calm weather, or South-east winds it is perfect. This bay where the indicator is located has on both sides some rocks in the water that break the small swell and make it calm inside.

On the beach you find a hot water source. It is a beautiful place to have a warm bath in nature, especially during winter or in the evenings when it is calm and quiet. When you go a little further south there is a hot water source that ends in the sea, where you can swim in the sea with hot water from the source. Locals try to do something about the pollution here, because there are many people that don't care about it and just trow rubbish everywhere. I hope you find it in a clean and natural state.

When there comes a bit west in the wind this bay gets choppy so it is better to move around the corner to " Robinson creek". You can anchor quite close to the beach in sand with some rocks. It is good to lay a stern anchor or line to the side to make sure you don't hit the sides when the wind turns. With strong North or west winds it is not safe to stay in either of these anchorages.

When you like octopus, you can catch them here. local spear-fishermen are catching big octopus here. When you don't like to hunt for them yourselves you can buy one from them.

Sidi Daoud 37 1.243 N 10 54.46 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 22/01/2019

The approach of this fishing port and the water depth does not look very inviting on the Navionic charts. In reality it is quite easy. The entrance channel is marked with big fixed buoys and when you follow this, it is really easy. Stay close to the green entrance light when entering the port, because the portside is silted.

Depths in the port are good. Overall depths are 2 to 2,5 meter at the berths, and the ones north from the Ice factory even have 4 meter.

In strong North-West winds it is not advisable to enter the port, the harbour master told us from 40 knots and more you can better not try to enter. Below that, or with other directions it should be fine.

I do not know if all the lights work, the harbour master told me they do, but I did not check for myself.

Kelibia 36 49.99 N 11 6.679 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 21/02/2019

This port is a good combination of port/marina. It is a fishing port, and thus a cheap place to berth. But it has a quay reserved for pleasure crafts, so you don't have the risk of being squeezed between big fishing boats that can cause damage. It is a big fishingport and very well accecible for bigger yachts as well. The depts are good in this port, because the fishing boats themselves have a draft of about 2 meters.

The nice thing of this port is the big shipyard. Especially in winter it is a delight to watch all the fishermen paint, fix and rebuild their boats. The quay for pleasure crafts is busy, it is very well possible that you have to climb 3 boats to arrive at the quay.

The castle is nice to visit for the vieuw, and to have a quick look into history. but don't expect too much from what is inside. there are no signs with information once you are inside, and the team that works here does not have a clue either ;)

Beni Khiar 36 27.17 N 10 47.78 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 21/02/2019

Beni Khiar is a very lively and friendly fishing port with a good atmosphere. There is always a lot of activity in the port, and there is a small cafe and restaurant on the quay with small tables under palm tree roofs. The people are very friendly, and the female harbour master is really helpfull. During the day the boats run up and down between the fishfarms that are located a few miles from this port. Interestig to see how this industry works.

Be carefull with the depths in the port. They do dredge about every 3 years, and the main channel is good. But not all the pontoons are safe to moor up because they shoal towards the quay. even up to 0.5 meter sometimes. The tip of the first pontoon is the best place. We measured a depth of 3 meter there, and the pirate ship and big fishing boat that use to moor there have a draft of at least 2 meters as well.

We had 1 incident during the night. A drunk men silently sneeked into our boat and slept in the empty bedroom. During the night he started walking trough the boat, so we woke up. He said that he wanted to go to Europe with us. He wasn't aggressive at all, it seemed that he just decided this when he was drunk. And now he became sober a bit, he was a bit ashamed. I don't know if this is just an incident. But maybe good to know.

For us this was a very good and cheap alternative for the more expensive Hammamet marina. (you pay 1TD a meter per night + some tax) Hammamet Yasmine marina & anchorage 36 22.38 N 10 32.80 E Marjolein de Bruijne (Messenger) - 21/02/2019

This is a really fancy and well organised marina. This is really comparable with European marinas. But the prices as well ;)

We used this as a port of entry, and it went really smooth and fast. They have plenty of space, and the personnel will even help you to moor with a dingy. Water, electricity, showers, fuel, travel lift, everything you expect from a decent marina is functioning well.

When you are on a budget it is also possible to anchor just south of the harbour entrance. With offshore wind the water is really calm and beautifull. They allow you to put dinghy and bikes in the marina when you want to go on shore. With eastwind the swell gets quite big, so make sure you leave in time. In Winter the anchorage is calm and quiet, but in summer there will be more jetski's and speedboats around I guess.

The location of this port is in a toeristic settlement with hotels and restaurants. It is not very easy to find shops for fresh food here. But there is a little supermarket with bread and canned food just outside the port. And altough everybody will tell you there are no vegetables in this area, you can find them on the crossing with the N1 to Hammamet (about 15 minutes walk)

Africa N - MOROCCO Tangier 35 47.53 N 5 48.21 W Kris Adams (S/V Taipan) - 14/09/2018

Tangier. For members information. We just spend 5 nights in the new Tangier Bay Marina. The welcome was extraordinary with 3 men to catch our lines. There is a big fuel dock just before the arrival pontoon. The Arrival Pontoon around to the right has nice big cleats but its higher than normal docks so fenders up. The office conducts arrival and berthing details and the Customs and Immigration office is adjacent. All the facilities are new. Arrival formalities took approximately half an hour. The new town is to the east as you leave the marina precinct and the Medina souk Kasbar is to the right for various entrances. We found many spoke good English. Especially the dock staff. Physical security on the docks is lacking as its easy to climb but there are a lot of guards and the public is not allowed down on the waterfront where the boats are docked. We paid €20 per night inclusive. The bathrooms although new have a few design issues but nothing more than many marina bathrooms! The only downside is that the marina is Med mooring and it might be tight when its full but right now there were only 9 yachts and a few power boats. Over 200 berths available. We got a hammerhead so we were happy. Dock water is pottable. Taxis are cheap. The marina has several good restaurants and a patisserie along its upstairs waterfront. I have a ubiquity Bullet high gain antenna and was able to receive good internet aboard. We will definitely be going back. Thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience. Oh and clearing out, you go to the arrival pontoon and finalize formalities. This took 10 minutes. This basic sketch from the, now inaccurate, Open CPN chart shows where the marina is in relation to the rest of the harbour.

Marchica Marina/Melilla 35 12.70 N 2 51.3 W Will Pedder (Zorra) - 15/09/2015

Location of new entrance to the lagoon is as above. Port and starboard pillars mark the ends of the breakwaters, but the most visible landmark is five large Morocccan flags on the otherwise featureless coast. Navionics charts show the entrance correctly, but don't show the clearly visible lateral buoys (lit) for the new dredged channel (6m) to the marina. Marchica marina is indeed fine, good facilities, free of charge. Marchica is the brand name for the entire development of the lagoon; the hill by the marina is Antalaya, to be covered in apartments with views. Formalities have to be processed 6M away in Nador's ferry terminal. The HM drives you there and back. Total time 1.5 hours. To be repeated on exit. Customs search of the boat is normal. Africa N - ALGERIA - GENERAL INFORMATION 35 5.993 N 1 53.79 W Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

Algeria is the second largest country in Africa and half the size of Europe. 85% of its territory lies in the Sahara Desert and the majority of its population lives in the green and fertile land bordering the Mediterranean. Two mountain ranges run parallel to the coast: the Tell Atlas which is a continuation of the Moroccan Middle Atlas and the Sahara Atlas which marks the transition into desert, This inland topography influences the costal weather. The often steady easterlies make the Algerian coast a logical route for westbound yachts, though, it is unwise to stop along the coast without first having obtained a visa.

The long Algerian coastline stretches for 570M from Morocco in the west to in the east. It has many safe harbours offering protection, along with many commercial ports. Several of the smaller harbours and anchorages are in beautiful quiet settings, though currently many are designated as military zones and off-limits to pleasure yachts. There are no natural harbours along the entire coastline, and only one marina: Sidi Fredj, close to Algiers port.

Although day hopping from port to port is possible, lengthy formalities have to be carried out in every port on entry and departure. Do note that Algeria is a very wealthy country and is not interested in attracting tourists. It is necessary to obtain a visa in advance of arrival.

Despite the fact that a civil war has raged in Algeria for many years, it has never affected the coastal regions and is no longer a problem inland. But check with your embassy for security updates or https://www.gov.uk/foreign- travel-advice/algeria

Africa N - TUNISIA TUNISIA - GENERAL INFORMATION 36 57.02 N 8 38.77 E Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

Tunisia is the smallest country in the Mahgreb but offers the most varied and established cruising area of all, with many harbours, from small fishing ports to several marinas. The Tunisian coast extends 160M eastward from the Algerian border to Cap Bon, where it turns south for 330M to the border with .

The landscape consists of isolated mountains in the north and shallow, tidal coastal areas in the south where the desert meets the sea. Few yachts venture south of Mahdia. There are many interesting historical sites to visit, reminders of the fact that this part of was once an important Roman province. Overland trips to the Berber dwellings in the south provide for interesting desert excursions to view a way of life unchanged through the centuries. See the Introduction on page 1 and the country introduction on page 154 for helpful insights into planning your cruise, formalities and socio-cultural guidelines; and our online updates.

The winters are mild and, as there are enough ports with good protection should the weather deteriorate, it is possible to continue cruising in the winter. Summer cruising is normally accompanied by west, northwest or east winds. Tides are negligible along the north coast of Tunisia and along much of the east coast going south from Cap Bon. They become significant around Sfax and from there south, are mentioned under each port. Watch out for the Marrobbio phenomenon when sea levels can suddenly increase by about a metre, generating strong currents of up to 4 knots in one direction and may just as suddenly reverse.

Check for security updates with your embassy before setting out as there has been a State of Emergency imposed by the Tunisian government which may still be in place. Or check this website: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice/tunisia Africa N - LIBYA LIBYA - GENERAL INFORMATION 32 49.09 N 12 27.09 E Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

THIS IS FOR INFO ONLY DUE TO THE SECURITY PROBLEMS IN LIBYA

With 1000M of coastline, Libya stretches between Tunisia to the west and to the east. Africa’s fourth largest country; Libya is one of its most spectacular and beautiful. Huge areas of Sahara desert separate the mountainous and fertile north from its Sub-Saharan neighbours. The two main provinces are Tripolitania in the northwest and Cyrenaica in the northeast. The southern province of Fezzan is largely desert and most of its inhabitants live in the central and southern oases of the Sahara.

There are 5 major ports detailed in this edition. The information was gathered before the Libyan war that has all but destroyed the country. There are many more ports, particularly huge oil terminals, along with small fishing harbours. See the Introduction on page 1 and the country introduction on page 239 for helpful insights and information. There have been reports since 2014 of foreign nationals being kidnapped or killed, so it would be unwise to even attempt a visit at this time. Check with your embassy or see: https://www.gov.uk/foreign-travel- advice/libya

Hot and dry conditions by day and freezing temperatures at night in the Gulf of Sirte (mid coast) result in strong gusty winds blowing up from the northwest during summer. Northwest and northeast gales (Gregale) are frequent in winter and can be prolonged. Strong south winds are sometimes experienced, bringing scorching Sahara sand to the coast in summer, and in winter, sometimes torrential rain. The maximum tidal range is around half a metre or less and is therefore ignored, being of little significance. Barometric pressure differences, as weather systems move through the area, are a far more significant factor in tidal differences. In general, currents of up to half a knot travel west-southwest from Cap Bon to the Levant and along the east Libyan coast from Benghazi. In the Bay of Gabes and Sirte, however, a clockwise current develops and circulates with centres approximately 100M offshore. This produces northwest-going currents along the coast from Benghazi to Tunisia, affecting approaches to Benghazi and Tripoli.

Africa N - & THE PANTELLERIA & THE PELAGIE ISLANDS - GENERAL INFORMATION 36 50.51 N 11 56.36 E Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

256 PANTELLERIA A tiny, Italian island 45M east of Tunisia and 57M SW of , Pantelleria is included as a convenient place to stopover for limited provisioning and basic repairs. The island has two small ports, the main harbour of Pantelleria in the northwest corner and the smaller Porto Scauri on the west coast, which offers shelter from the northwesterly gales. Space however is limited. Due to the island’s volcanic origin, the soil is rich and grapes are grown for locally produced wines. There are also hot volcanic springs on the shores of the inland lake to be enjoyed and a natural ‘sauna’ cave in the woods.

260 PELAGIE ISLANDS A group of 3 small Italian islands included for their close proximity to Tunisia as a rest stop and for limited provisioning.

Lampedusa, the main island, is located half way between and Tunisia and room for visiting yachts may be found in the fishing port on the SW corner of the island. It is flat and low lying with rocky outcrops and small attractive bays, though anchoring has been restricted by the military, who have a base there. There is a small population whose main livelihoods are agriculture, fishing and tourism. Diving is popular. lies 25 miles to the NW and in contrast to is volcanic in origin, and rises steeply from the seabed. There is a tiny harbour suitable to visit in settled weather, if there is room. A ferry brings many visitors in the summer. , a tiny low flat rocky islet in the group, is of little significance except for its lighthouse as a landmark.

Be on alert in this region due to the large number of small, unlit boats carrying migrants fleeing North Africa, in the hope of finding a better life in Europe.

Africa N - MALTA MALTA - GENERAL INFORMATION 35 50.11 N 14 32.58 E Graham Hutt (Java Pearl) - 31/01/2018

The archipelago of Malta, located south of Sicily and 185M east of Tunisia, is included due to its close proximity to North Africa and therefore an ideal departure point. It also offers several safe harbours and anchorages, good provisioning and repairs and an international airport for crew changes. It is also has a fascinating history with evidence remaining of its impressive fortifications and churches. It is worthwhile spending a few days imbibing the local culture and traditions.

Malta is the main and largest of 3 islands in the group. is to the NW and can be reached by ferry. The tiny island of Camino is uninhabited and lies in between.

The prevailing wind is NW throughout the year. It can be hot and humid for a few weeks in the summer and occasionally cold and uncomfortable during the NE gales in winter. The climate is otherwise pleasant. Tides are negligible.

It is advisable to book marina moorings in advance as Malta becomes very crowded in summer.

Black Sea Latest Update and Corrections for RCCPF Black Sea 43 15.90 N 34 9.098 E Richard Marsh - 17/12/2017

Click the link to download the latest supplement https://www.imray.com/files/book_supplements/IB0191-S.pdf or copy and paste it into your browser.

Poyraz 41 12.27 N 29 7.691 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 28/09/2018

New quay under construction in SE of harbour, with a new short mole protecting it. Still plenty of room to anchor as per Pilot. The new Yavuz Sultan Selim Bridge across the Bosphorus is beautiful, and beautifully lit at night. Poyraz provides a front-of-house view.

Sile 41 10.72 N 29 36.40 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 27/09/2018

The new marina on the SE side of the harbour is now built. See the attached two photos. The jetties are concrete on piles, with vertical rubber fenders, plastic faced, suitable for (fishing boats) with gunwhales or rubbing strakes. Utility pods everywhere, not yet connected. Depths vary - we found 2m N approaching the third jetty from the entrance, but 2.3m alongside it. The second jetty is deeper.

We found min depth in harbour entrance 3.7m, as on current Navionics. That was on the leading line as per Pilot which shows 5m.

In Sep we found oodles of space, sheltering for four days from a stiff NEly. No swell through the entrance, but quite a chop in the large harbour, with breakers over-topping the W mole. Regular buses to Istanbul, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hrs depending on traffic.

Greek Waters and S Cyprus Patras, 38 14.04 N 21 43.24 E Anthony Fawcett (Moonlight Lady) - 08/10/2019

The marina is out of action and is not accepting visitors because a number of the pontoons have been damaged, I suspect some time ago. there is limited roon in the main commercial harbour, but even in October I was unable to find a space. The Geek Waters Pilot 12th Edition 2014 does not make any mention of this, nor is there any information on Noonsite.

Anthony Fawcett

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - The Northern Ionian Greece - new cruising tax 37 58.46 N 23 41.97 E Heugh Symons (Alethia) - 27/03/2019

The new cruising tax for sailing in greek waters is to be implemented from 2nd April. Ionian Marine where I keep Alethia has just sent me this link which should answer any queries you may have. https://www.aade.gr/dl_assets/etepai/etepai_faqs_en.pdf Avlaki, Nisos Othonoi 39 50.38 N 19 24.70 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 22/04/2018

The harbour entrance is now buoyed. A PHB lies 0.2NM SE of the E end of the breakwater, with two SHBs N of the breakwater. Water and power on the hard at the N side of the harbour.

Levkas Canal N entrance 38 50.78 N 20 43.29 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 01/05/2018

The sandbar at the N entrance to Levkas canal has been removed. A SHB marks its E end, with yellow beacons extending to its NE. The entrance is then clearly buoyed. The curtailed sandbar, but not buoys, are shown on Navionics. The bridge operates on a siren, but no signal is visible.

Vasiliki, Lefkada, Greece 38 36.49 N 20 35.88 E Anthony Fawcett (Moonligh Lady) - 04/09/2019

While the Greek Waters Pilot is not an RCC Pilotage Foundation publication, it is nevertheless the bible for the area. the 12th Edition of Greek Waters Pilot 2014 p.87 states that there are plans to extend the harbour at Vasiliki and gives an outline chart of the proposed new harbour. This new harbour has been built, though in August 2019 the final work had not been completed. The Google Earth image is slightly out of date as the mole running NE/SW has been completed and runs to what appears to be an island and the two pontoons coming out from the existing mole running NW/SE shown in the chartlet are in place, though at this point you are not allowed to moor on them. The new harbour is significantly bigger than the old harbour.

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - The Saronic and Eastern Peloponnisos Porto Kheli, Saronic Gulf/Eastern Peloponnese/Marina under construction 37 17.97 N 23 9.736 E Anthony Fawcett (Moonlight Lady) - 10/09/2019

A new marina is under construction to the east of the Town Quay at Porto Kheli, which is connected to the land on the north side of the harbour. Anthony Fawcett

Poros-Galatas channel, Saronic, Greece 37 29.59 N 23 27.73 E Richard Marsh (Pastime of Innisfree) - 02/09/2019

Following a helicopter accident in August 2019, the power lines crossing the SE end of the channel were damaged.

It is understood that the air height of the power lines is currently just 26m, much less than the charted 46m.

Recent unconfirmed reports suggest that the lines may have been raised slightly, but they are not due to be tightened back to the charted height until late October.

Until then all vessels with air height over 25m are advised to use only the north entrance to the Poros channel.

Please refer to local Notices to Mariners for the latest information.

Rod and Lucinda Heikell

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - The Ios Port 36 43.39 N 25 16.30 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 18/06/2019

We found the E quay full in June, with low turnover. Visiting yachts were using the quay SW of the basin, with bow anchors. Hazards include: •Ferry wash. Scend & surge on SW quay. Scend, surge and roll on the E quay. •The SW quay is exposed to the Meltemi. The E quay is surprisingly sheltered. •Yachts may not be left unattended on the SW quay. One anchor lifted by another’s during the Meltemi could result in multiple damage. •Off the SW quay is a small reef which fouls anchors, positioned 175 feet 194 degrees from the SW corner of the ferry quay. The HM (at Ios Marina office) can arrange a diver well used to clearing anchors for Euro 120. •Noise of ferries is invasive at night. Some 20 large vessels per 24h. We did not agree with Heikell that Ios is a place to leave a yacht while visiting .

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - Evia and the Northern , Sporades, Greece 39 9.514 N 23 29.87 E Anthony Fawcett (Moonlight Lady) - 08/06/2018

The Coastguard, under instruction from the airport, have forbidden anchoring in Skiathos New Harbour even to the west of the black can buoy marking the eastern limit of safe anchoring. I had been instructed to anchor to the west of the black can buoy by the harbourmaster only a week before. Anthony Fawcett

Ormos Papdhia 40 0.877 N 23 49.49 E Will Pedder (Zorra ) - 10/06/2018

Anchorage open only to SE. Remote, scenic. We found no holding in the W bay, but patches of firm sand at 7m in the NW bay.

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - Northern Greece Gerolimenasf4 36 28.68 N 22 24.15 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 07/09/2019 Navionics shows a bar across the inlet at 1.5m depth. Rubbish. The Pilot’s chartlet appears correct. Old moorings clutter the harbour, visible through the water. Nice cliffs, floodlit.

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - The Eastern Sporades Evdilhos 37 37.99 N 26 10.99 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 19/05/2019

The S side of the N mole is used by a massive ferry. Yachts should berth on the quays at the S of the harbour, on the N, W or S faces of the E-W limb. The S side has some laid lines. We and 4 other yachts managed alongside. Another anchored in the bay 200m to the SE. Port police very friendly; Euro 9 for 12m. One utility pod appeared to work, some 100m from the yachts.

Nice place, unpretentious.

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - The Ay Apostoli (more correctly, Ay Paulos) 36 5.274 N 28 5.331 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 05/10/2019

The Pilot does not mark the 3.5m plateau of rock in the centre of the entrance. Navionics does. It is much deeper to the N of centre, say 8m from the cliff. Beware of cliff-jumpers landing on deck.

St Paul's is a delightful pool, very sheltered from all directions. We took lines to the eastern rocks. Holding is good, on sand (occasional lumps of rock). The acroplis above is stunning, from the pool or when visiting. Quality restaurant on the S beach. The streets of Lindos are charming, though crowded during tourist hours. There was no swell outside when we visited, so we can't comment on it "rebounding around the bay".

Greek Waters and S Cyprus - 35 29.54 N 24 3.776 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 17/09/2019

Tranquil in a northerly blow, alongside the E side of the W breakwater. Locals warned us this can become dangerous if the wind turns E, when the sea level rises enough to cover the sill (normally 20cm above the water). Lazy lines for lying stern-to are all private; we used holding off anchors which seemed to hold well. The best option for an E wind is the next basin to the E, marked “Works in Progress” in the Pilot. Locals say anchoring here is permitted and very safe. Anchoring in the W end of the bay, to the N of the yacht harbour, also appeared safe in a Northerly, with two yachts at long-term anchor there. Bus No 13 to Chania every 20 mins, takes 20 mins. The stop is by the excellent Synka supemarket. We were joined by a stowaway mouse. Heraklion 35 20.60 N 25 8.279 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 29/09/2019

Beware foul ground. We berthed on the town quay, 20m W of the steel ladder up the high quay. We then hauled well off, and dinghied to the ladder, to sleep ashore. On weighing, our anchor was foul of something invisible in the murky water, freed by our trip line. The few yachts mooring a touch further W had no fouling problems that we saw.

Ormos Bali, Crete 35 24.66 N 24 47.25 E Will PEDDER (Firemoose) - 03/05/2017

Navionics charts show an island at this location which does not exist.

Turkish Waters and N Cyprus Eskifoça 38 40.20 N 26 44.70 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 09/05/2019

In Buyukdeniz Limani, the southernmost of the concrete piers on the W side now has spaces for visiting yachts, with lazy lines, some buoyed. Water and (intermittent) electricity on the pier. TL100 for 12m incl water & elec. A pleasant walk to town.

The town quay was very exposed in a W4. Many yachts there had three or more bow lines. But only one space available early May.

Fenerbache/Kalamis, Istanbul 40 58.52 N 29 2.067 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 19/01/2020

We overwintered 2018-19, on the hard. the yard's operations are good. We found the many contractors based in the yard to be of variable quality. Three good chandlers close by. The yard is in what is now quite a smart area of Asian Istanbul. Good restaurants and bars. Bike or Dolmus is needed to get to the ferries at Kadikoy.

Behram Kale 39 29.1 N 26 20.29 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 29/04/2019

Pilot is too cautious. In excess of 2.5m depth. We found no rogue masonry. The N wall has laid lines, and one of the restauranteurs will assist. 1m long platforms protrude from the wall so your bows can lie off a little - very shallow close in to the wall. Do not try stern to. No charge.

A lovely place. What a privilege to walk from the charming harbour up to the magical site of Assos.

Quality restauarants along the harbour front. No shops in harbour. Turan 40 30.49 N 27 46.80 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 23/04/2019

There is a new breakwater from the S shore, see attached photo. The middle of the harbour is over 4m, within a boat length of the N breakwater, then tumbled ballast. Use at least 20m of line to secure to it.

Kursunlu 40 23.95 N 28 17.25 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 23/04/2019

As Pilot. We anchored in the centre of the outer harbour, using a stern line to pull us near a backup barge in the SW corner. Fishing boats entering and returning were sometimes unlit. We ensured we were well lit!

Mudanya 40 22.99 N 28 52.30 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 22/04/2019

As Pilot. We stayed three nights while visiting Bursa. Good shelter. Expensive, at TL200pn plus electricity. The harbour has no visitors’ berths. We took the only vacant space in April. Friendly. Old Mudanya towards the ferry port has charming old wooden houses. Frequent Minibus then Metro gets you to old Bursa.

Cakilkoy 40 28.08 N 28 1.688 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 06/07/2018

Google earth showed an empty harbour. We found 80+ large fishing vessels berthed five deep, with none active overnight. Another yacht and ourselves failed to get anchors to hold in the harbour. He went alongside one fishing vessel, using dinghy to disembark. We put our bow to the small concrete jetty in NW of harbour, and got a grip with our danforth stern anchor. No restaurants, scruffy village no facilities. But...

....a wedding involved the entire village with dancing and music. Local girls wore saffron headscarves and spangled red salwars. Men and women danced to traditional music. We were made warmly welcome, and given food. Memorable.

Karabiga, Sea of Marmara 40 24.51 N 27 19.24 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 03/07/2018

There is a large new power station and coal termina on reclaimed land not shown on this year's Navionics charts, just N of Karabiga Fineri point. Highly visible and not difficult to avoid! Canakkale marina 40 9.126 N 26 24.32 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 03/07/2018

9th Ed P55. VHF 73 for the marina, not 72 as per Supplement 2 P55.

Çardak 40 22.89 N 26 42.50 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 02/07/2018

Good anchorage well sheltered from prevailing NElies, off the beach formed by the spit Çardak Burnu. Good holding. Note fish traps in centre of bay, marked by a dotted line on Navionics. Ferries pass close to the S, but no noise or wash from them. No mosques nearby. Watch the shipping steaming by.

Turkey, south coast 36 41.88 N 28 57.68 E Gillie Green - 30/01/2018

FROM MARTIN WALKER Re Heikell/Imray Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot 9th Edition - Ch IV and V. in 2017 I cruised between Datca and Kas in May/June and September/October. I saw nothing of navigational significance to update Heikell’s pilot. Pump out facilities are now easy to find in the Gocek/Fethiye area and are available at the major marinas. Sea water quality remains excellent. Near Gocek, there are minor changes to shoreside facilities and anyone cruising Scopea Limani might wish to be aware that some of the red mooring buoys have vanished and Ruin Bay facilities were removed entirely; the old pontoons at Wall Bay are now in use in 22 Fathom Cove whilst Wall Bay itself - with its two good jetties has had a major makeover for 2017 and is reported to be very expensive. However, a trickle past of Market boats (plus daily availability of pump-out and rubbish boats) means yachts on buoys or at anchor can readily resupply for all but fuel and water. Visitor numbers, ashore and afloat, remain severely depressed and the majority of the Gulets appear to be laid up - particularly in Bozburun. The number of foreign flagged boats cruising this Turkish coast remains low; flotillas appear to be a thing of the past. Some of this slack is taken up in Skopea Limani by dozens of white motor cruisers who flood out of Gocek at the weekend. Turkish sailors are also enjoying their coast line to a much greater extent than hitherto while there are plenty of boats available for charter in the major areas such as Orhaniye, Marmaris, Gocek and Fethiye - Gulets are also readily available. This coast of remains an excellent cruising ground and mobile phone connections and technical support remain excellent.; the people are as friendly as ever, despite an obvious lack of business.

Turkey 36 53.17 N 30 42.16 E Gillie Green - 29/01/2018

Honarary Foreign Representative Hasan Kacmaz. Very helpful. He is at the new Marina in Istanbul 4 days a week, lives in Antalya and keeps his Sadler 34 at Alanya. Home Telephone +90 242 3236680. Address: Fener Mah,1964 Sok.No:9, Muratpasa,Antalya, email [email protected]

Turkish Visas From 10th April 2014 Visas should be obtained on line prior to travel although they were also available at the airport of arrival in Nov.2014.You may still buy a visa on arrival but it is £20 not £14 as on line. If you buy one on line it will automatically appear on their computers so a printout is unnecessary. (GG2015)

Transit Logs New regulations apply to all boats. One has to employ an agent and as they have to enter all the features on the central computer via a secure code. Crew changes appear not to have to be registered. (Ed) Check that the agent has your information correct as once data has been entered it is difficult to change. Logs are issued for a year, but are not necessary if one puts a boat in bond in a marina. In eastern turkey there are no facilities to renew and we were fined 50TL when renewing because ours was 10 days over due. (GG11). If your log runs out when you are away, you may leave your boat in bond with a Marina and renew your log on return to Turkey. (Ed)

Cruising Permits. Foreign flagged boats may not stay in Turkey for more than 5 years. If this is breached then a significant fine may be imposed based on the value of the boat determined by survey. In 2014 this policy was being pursued – boats being impounded until the matter was resolved and fines paid - and catching out those who had earlier left Turkish waters without clearing out in order to save the cost and need to get a new cruising Permit on return. If an owner is not sure of the date of entry an agent can check this on line. (MRW14) At Kas an agent will clear you out of Turkey and, after a quick sail to the nearest Greek Island, renew your Permit. (Ed)

Fethiye: easy Use ALESTA Cost approx 140TL overall 2009 Kemer: very easy Approx 40€ Datcha.: Easy. Approx cost 70€ 2009 Bodrum: a nightmare avoid like the plague Kusadasi:Easy but €50 plus cost of actual log.(PJP10)

Kas: Easy, either marina arranges an agent or use an independent one in town. 100YTL

Blue Card New rules introduced in 2009 require all vessels between Gulluk in the west to Antalya in the east) to:

Have a Blue Card

Collect all black AND grey water in a holding tank

Have holding tanks pumped out at shore facilities or pump-out boats and pay for this

Get each pump out or container of oil or bilgewater recorded on the Blue Card

Pump no bilgewater into the sea

In practice the rules are unworkable and only seem to be observed at all in Skopea Limani (Gocek/Fethiye), where pump-out boats are in evidence, and possibly Marmaris. However, for any “Official” transaction (eg renewing a cruising permit) you will probably be asked to produce a Blue Card and (in theory, at least) it will be checked to see that you have pumped out a plausible number of times. Blue cards cost YTL20 and on buying one I was told by the helpful girl “I’ve already marked it with a few pump-outs - it looks better”. There is no charge for a pump out at Kas. There appears to be no active policing of the scheme, but coastguard helicopters do regularly fly over Gocek and Marmaris looking for discharges and there are plenty of anecdotal accounts of swinging fines being levied on offenders by Kalkan Harbour master. The rules apply to “all vessels within marine areas and inland waters” but there are no definitions offered so how far offshore you need to be to pump out is unknown. Common sense suggests a mile or so, but don’t do it under any official noses, sea or airborne. (CDP12) Moorings Charter management advise that there is TL10,000 fine for discharge of any black water except in authorised pump out facilities in marinas of which there are none or very few. Moorings recommend that black water tanks are opened when a decent way offshore (AW16),

Security See RYA advice http://www.rya.org.uk/infoadvice/boatingabroad/Pages/world.aspx Many Syrian migrants, mainly families, were moving across Turkey from 2014 2017 to make their way to Greece. There were few problems on the south coast and no reports of yachts being troubled. However Members observed the problems on the west coast, particularly at . Our HLR in Turkey, Hasan Kacmak reports that “no yacht skipper has been asked or forced to deliver the refugees to Greek waters. Turkish people and Turkish state spends lots of effort and money to give a little comfort to the refugees but Turkey as you know, isn’t a rich country to look after 2.5 million refugees for many more years to come. If any Members notice a boat full of refugees in Turkish waters, they should inform Turkish Coast Guard on Ch 16. The Turkish Coast Guard officers mostly speak good English and their boats are fast enough to rescue the immigrants. Üç Burunlar 38 22.99 N 26 18.10 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 09/05/2019

An E cardinal marks the SE end of the shoals, in position 38 23.03M 26 18.12E. It is shown on current Navionics charts, but not in the sketch in the Pilot p143.

The passage remains as drawn.

Dikili 39 4.099 N 26 53.10 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 04/05/2019

As Pilot. Very crowded with active fishing vessels, mostly day-boats diving for sea-cucumbers to be airlifted to China.

We berthed between heavy steel trawlers. We found a HM in the chay shop near the coop fish counter; TL50 per day, "no problem". We departed for a night in Bergama. On return our neighbours had moved round us; light scrapes to our bows. Everyone very friendly and helpful, to us and each other.

In short, everyone finds a berth, generally rafted multiples deep, and everyone happily moves anyone's boat as necessary.

For Bergama/Pergamon, take Dolmus or taxi 1km to Otogar (bus terminus), thence minibus, every 30 mins, journey 30 mins.

Bademli Limani 39 1.071 N 26 48.60 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 04/05/2019

The inner basin (Heikell's anchorage #1) is soft mud, poor holding, though the hole is 5m deep. 2.5m over the bar.

We found good holding in 8m just outside the inner basin, 200m SW of the southern spit.

Armtulu 40 30.55 N 28 49.64 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 08/07/2018

There is a new harbour at 40 30.5N 28 49.6E, for fishing boats but there was room and depth alongside for one yacht when we visited. We anchored 1/4M to the W, on shingle at 7m, good holding. Very good provisions, a Migros and Carrefour. We enjoyed the restaurant Çetinkaya Canli Balik some 600m to the E of the harbour, on the seafront promenade. Finike approaches 36 15.31 N 30 8.105 E Will Pedder - 29/10/2020

When approaching Finike from the SW, the fish farm NE of Bunde Br (marked on Navionics as 180 degrees Finike 2.7NM) has moved. There are now two, marked by small orange buoys, at approx 36 16.2N 30 09.8E. SInce an older version of Navionics marked them even further N, I guess they may be re-positioned from time to time.

Bayinder Limani 36 10.35 N 29 38.98 E Will Pedder (Zorra) - 26/10/2020

Nuri's Beach Bungalows in the SE corner of the bay is a gem, off-season at least. Good restaurant serving a cluster of cabins set into the bushes, with bathing platforms. Accessible only by boat, though close to Kas, with regular (hourly?) ferry. Jetty for about four yachts, stern to, only a couple have lazy lines. Elec & water, no charge if eating. The Lycian Way paths run N and S from here, The N direction ascends sheer cliffs dottted with rock tombs. We were warned it was challenging.