The settlement of (1910 - 2010)

Jacob Y. de Groot1

Abstract The tiny island of Ko Lipe in the Andaman Sea is of great importance to the sea people who live in the area. The ’ had been a wandering people for many generations before their leader, a man called To’ Kiri, brought them to the islands they now call home. Lipe was one of the first islands to be occupied by the Urak Lawoi’ because of its flat interior and protected position, its sweet water source and the good and easy mooring sites it offered for the Urak Lawoi’s boats. To’ Kiri and his descendants lived on Lipe, and died there. To’ Kiri’s grave is on the North side of the island; a holy place for the Urak Lawoi’, indicated by a commemorative plaque. When all Urak Lawoi’ inhabitants of the Tarutao and Adang Archipelagos were forced out of their villages on other islands to be resettled on Ko Lipe because the whole area was to become a national park, this had great consequences for the self sufficient life style that the Urak Lawoi’ had become accustomed to since their first settlement in Southern Thai waters, and when mass tourism began to develop in the area, the Urak Lawoi’ became in fact a marginalized peo- ple. The question is to whom the use of land and resources of Ko Lipe and the park is actually reserved to; to the Urak Lawoi’ or to the project developers who have transformed the beautiful island into a tourist paradise.

Keywords: Urak Lawoi’, Ko Lipe, Tarutao National Marine Park, migration, resettlement

The islands of the Adang and Tarutao archipelagos, or Tarutao National Marine Park

1 Jacob Y. de Groot is a researcher and lecturer at Prince of Songkla University, Phuket campus, and can be reached at: ja- [email protected] The Urak Lawoi’ of the Tarutao and presence of the Urak Lawoi’ people had some th Adang Archipelagos influence on early 20 century Thai state forming. Although they only received full The Urak Lawoi’ are a Malay ethnic group or Thai citizenship in the 1970’s, the Urak originally seafaring people (generally known Lawoi’ played a role as ‘Thai’ denizens of the as ‘sea-gypsies’ and also called ‘sea-people’) archipelago in a time when Great Britain was living primarily in permanent settlements on still looking for possibilities to seize control the islands of Phuket, Phi Phi, Jum, Lanta, over the area that lay between their colonial Bulon, Lipe and Adang along the Andaman possessions in Burma and Malaya. As nominal coast of . The Urak Lawoi’ arrived in ‘Thai’ inhabitants of the islands the Urak Thai waters in the beginning of the 20th Lawoi’ helped the Thai government to hold a century. According to the Report of Prelimi- political right over an area which it considered nary Survey of Tarutao Marine National Park to be Thai and therefore unavailable to Euro- of 1974 the Urak Lawoi’ have lived in the pean imperialism6. After the First World War, Adang Archipelago, and initially predominant- during which Thailand chose the side of the ly on Lipe Island, since the 1910's2. The re- Allies, the British threat subsided and the mote archipelagos were not occupied by any Urak Lawoi’ were left to their wandering other people until 1937, when a penal colony ways. Only in the 1950’s the Urak Lawoi’ was founded on Tarutao3. The Urak Lawoi’, started living in permanent settlements along who originated from the east coast of Sumatra, the islands’ coasts, venturing out to fish and to were unlike other Malay people never bagat 7 from fixed, be it simple houses. During Islamized, and had led a semi-nomadic4 life and after the Urak Lawoi’ became sedentary, for generations before eventually settling on the islands gradually filled up with more Thai the Thai islands in the Andaman Sea5. On the citizens, to whom - other than to the Urak other islands in the Andaman Sea they had not Lawoi’ - land deeds were extended. In the arrived as first settlers. In Phuket Chinese tin 1980’s all Urak Lawoi’ were given surnames miners had preceded then since the first half of by Royal Decree. Many families also received the 19th century; Thai as well as Malay Thai nationality. The citizens of Ko Lipe were Muslim fishermen were using the islands from now on all called Hăanthálee8. It was a closer to shore as their bases; and on Lanta step further into the direction of their were colonies of charcoal burners and Muslim becoming Thai, or, as rather their becoming fishing villages. As a matter of fact, the Thai Mài, or ‘New Thai’, as the Thai Government prefers to call the Urak Lawoi’. 2 Mahidol University 1974 From 1972 through 1974 Tarutao and the 3 Long before Tarutao became part of Tarutao National Ma- Adang archipelago were transformed into a rine Park, it received some notoriety because of its function as national park area named Tarutao National Ma- a prison island. From 1937 until 1946 the island accommodat- ed common as well as political prisoners with long prison sentences. During the Second World War, Tarutao was cut off 6 In fact, the islands of the Adang and Tarutao Archipelagos from support from the mainland. Guards and prisoners were had belonged to the Thai province of Saiburi (now Kedah), an forced to take the law into their own hands and raided ships area that was surrendered to Britain under the Anglo-Siamese that were sailing in the waters around the island. The pirates Treaty of 1909. Only in 1938 the islands were placed official- of Tarutao sank almost 130 ships, killing everyone on board. ly under the jurisdiction of . At the end of the war the pirates were eradicated by British 7 ‘Bagat’ UL - Urak Lawoi’ term for a foraging trip. During forces. From 1946 until 1974 Tarutao was a deserted island such trips temporary shelters would be build on non- belonging to the Department of Corrections. permanently inhabited islands, from where fishing expeditions 4 Unlike the , another sea people in the area, who are to rich waters were undertaken. nomadic and originally lived only on their boats, before their 8 ‘Not Afraid of the Sea’. On Phuket the common Urak eventual settlement the Urak Lawoi’ always built semi- Lawoi’ surname became Pràmongkìt (Fisherman’s Duty); on permanent housing on the coasts where they would forage. Lanta Tháleelúek (Deep Sea) and Cháangnáam (Water Ele- 5 De Groot 2010 phant) are the Urak Lawoi’ surnames. 9 11 rine Park by the Thai government. Urak in-law, Phûu Yài BâanP10F P Kitchai Lawoi’ settlements and bagat shelters were Horpisuttisarn. removed from all designated park areas and As far as can be determined by examining people were relocated to the four square kil- Urak Lawoi’ oral tradition, their leader To’ ometre large island of Lipe, just south of Kiri died in 1949 - from the bite of a snake Adang Island in the furthest outlying part of sent to him by the jealous lover of his second the park. Five villages on Adang and ten on wife. A few years earlier the Urak Lawoi’ had Rawi were evacuated. Bagat sites such as Telo’ left all their mainland villages and bagat sites Bagat on Dong Island and Patai Panyak Bagat in order to remain as far as possible from the on Rawi were declared off limits for further Japanese occupation forces, who had started bagat purposes. Apart from a small settlement drafting young men into their army. In the of around a hundred people spread along the 1950’s the Urak Lawoi’ gradually settled in beaches of Telo’ Cengah and Telo’ Puya on the villages on Lipe, Adang and Rawi that could north-eastern side of Ko Adang, all Urak be more and more considered permanent, just Lawoi’ of the Tarutao and Adang archipelagos leaving their houses to bagat. area have since lived on tiny Ko Lipe. In spite of his own Muslim faith, which denies supernatural powers to others than God, To’ The Urak Lawoi’ and their leader Kiri is remembered as a man with great power To’ Kiri over nature. He used magic to protect himself and the Urak Lawoi’ people from natural Legend tells us that the Urak Lawoi’ were led disasters and predators - human as well as an- to the Tarutao Archipelago by an Acehnese imal. Many secondary legends adorn the leg- man called To’ Kiri. As legends alone are end that To’ Kiri himself was. It is said that hardly ever completely reliable, linguistic re- To’ Kiri was able to stop bullets, that he once search can help to establish the homeland of made Ko Lipe disappear from sight when the Urak Lawoi’, which lay along the east pirates were approaching the island, that he coast of Sumatra10. From Sumatra and possi- was able to ride sharks to save himself from bly via Aceh, To’ Kiri and the Urak Lawoi’ dangerous situations, that he could call fish to sailed first to Gunung Jerai in Malaya, were shore, predict storms and even change the they founded a settlement, and later arrived in weather. the Southern Thai archipelago where they built their boats, and permanent villages and Lifestyle established their bagat sites. Ko Lipe was the place on which To’ Kiri and his family even- The semi-nomadic Urak Lawoi’ had lived near tually stayed to live and work in the second coastal waters since before the Islamization of th th th decennium of the 20 century. To’ Kiri’s the Malay Archipelago (12P P to 17P P century), grave is there, and the island is still inhabited and had adapted their lifestyle to the area. In by his offspring and that of the friends who the dry season, which lasts from November to accompanied him to Ko Lipe. Nowadays Lipe April, they foraged throughout the archipelago is administered by To’ Kiri’s great-grandson during bagat expeditions to catch fish and col- lect sea cucumber, molluscs and crustaceans. In their use of available resources they had developed a subsistence strategy, never over- exploiting any area or resource. Their bagat 9 officially อุทยานทะเลแห่งชาติทางทะเลตะรุเตา , but often just called อุทยานทะเลแห่งชาติตะรุเตา 11 ผู้ใหญบ้าน่ TH - Village headman: lowest level of local 10 De Groot 2011-1 government trips could last from a few days to several but also in order to keep an eye on the weather months, depending on what and how much and their boats. In any case, an Urak Lawoi’ they could harvest from the sea, weather con- sleeping mat would never be further than a ditions and strength of manpower. During couple dozen meters from the sea. Many Urak their expeditions the Urak Lawoi’ would camp Lawoi’ claim that they need the sound of the on any island that offered a wind shade near a sea in their ears to be able to fall asleep. fresh water source. A simple hut or sleeping Although the Achehnese To’ Kiri reputedly platform would be constructed to house the encouraged his community to live by the laws members of the expedition, which would often of Islam, missionaries have converted some include the whole family. In the rainy season, people on Lipe to Christianity, and other Urak when food was plentiful near shore, the Urak Lawoi’ claim to be Buddhists, the traditional, Lawoi’ would return to their permanent vil- animist faith is still the most important. When lages. During that season major repairs to their Urak Lawoi’ speak Thai to guests, they ex- boats and houses were made, nets and traps plain that they adhere to săasànăa phĭı12. Es- were constructed and some trade with neigh- pecially older people are even disdainful when bouring communities took place. hearing or talking about other religions. They Urak Lawoi’ culture and religion was based on don’t like it that missionaries have converted the people’s close connection with the sea. so many of their young souls. In the animist

The islands of the Adang Archipelago

The ocean was their source of livelihood as tradition, spirits are present everywhere, and well as the abode of the spirits they wor- must be given plenty of attention. Before set- shipped. Houses were built on or near the ting out to sea, the spirits of the ocean are ap- beach with their fronts toward the shore. In all peased by offerings of betel leaves, areca nuts seasons, when it was dry, people would sleep on mats on the beach: Not only to keep cool, 12 ศาสนาผี TH- religion of ghosts: popular name for animism and tobacco. When a house or a temporary meters above the ground. The house itself was dwelling is built, a similar offer is made to the made of split bamboo, bound with rattan. spirits of the sand. When a boat is launched, Doors were made in the front and in the back yellow sticky rice, chicken and talcum powder of the house, but windows were not common. are offered in a puya tuhat13 ceremony. When Roofs were made of thatched nipa palm To’ Kiri was still alive, he led the Puya leaves. The kitchen was in the back of the Penyu14 and the Puya Lawoi’15 ceremonies. house. Cooking tools were made of coconut These ceremonies are no longer practised, but shells and large sea shells. Food was eaten a ceremony called Plajak is still performed on with the fingers. Dried flotsam wood and co- the nights of the full moon of the fifth and conut husks were used for fuel, while pots and eleventh lunar month. On these nights, a mod- pans were bartered from outside. el of a boat is launched into the sea. On board Boats were always the most essential part to of the model are put all misfortunes of the year the Urak Lawoi’s livelihood. Where the boat that has passed. The festivities around this was, was its owner. Spots to build permanent ceremony last for three days. houses would be chosen primarily by taking into account the best place where one could In Urak Lawoi’ tradition, resources were col- moor one’s boat. Traditionally, before the in- lectively owned, and anyone had free access to troduction of the Thai-style long tail boat in all in order to feed himself and his family. the 1970’s, making a boat was a communal Originally no foodstuffs or tools were import- effort. Boats of up to four meters long would ed from outside the community. On most days be built using simple tools such as axes. Most of the year food that had been harvested would boats would be fitted with a sail, but rowing be eaten the same day. The Urak Lawoi’ only was also a common way to move and steer. took what they needed. Trapped or caught ju- Hammers and metal nails had been known venile animals and animals inedible for man since the late 19th century, but traditionally as would be set free, thus preserving the ecosys- few as possible metal elements would be used tem. Necessities other than those procured in boat building. from the sea were traditionally traded, alt- The Urak Lawoi’ lived in groups that can be hough rice was grown by the Urak Lawoi’ characterized as nuclear families, forming themselves on Lipe, and fruit trees, cucumber, groups that centre around an - often - older lemongrass, eggplant and chilli pepper were married couple. People married when they planted on all islands where they lived and were in their mid to late teens, and would take foraged. over their parents’ generation’s social and po- Material possessions were kept to a minimum. litical power when in their thirties. The daily Essentials for staying alive and well included a chores of men would consist of going out to boat, a house, some tools and simple clothing. sea to fish, while women would line-fish from As with foods, things that could not be made the shore and collect shellfish and sea cucum- or found were acquired by bartering. ber. Women and older girls would be respon- Houses were built from simple materials with sible for raising the children and for cooking, simple tools. Hopea tree stilts raised the typi- washing and cleaning, collecting fuel wood cal Urak Lawoi’ home from a meter up to two and tending fruit trees, gardens or rice fields. Clothing was simple. Men and women wore 13 Puya Tuhat - worship of the Lord (of the Sea) - UL 14 Puya Penyu - worship of the turtle - UL: Performed on the sarongs; women tied above the chest and men full moon of the 5th and 11th lunar month to increase the tied around the waist. When fishing, men wore number of turtles and turtle eggs. loose shirts over fisherman’s pants. Life was 15 Puya Lawoi’’ - worship of the sea - UL: Performed on the full moon night of the 11th lunar month to invite sea animals to come near shore to spawn. socially controlled, undisturbed by outsiders, from the port of Pak Bara on mainland and largely predictable. Thailand. It has a special status within Tarutao National Marine Park. Lipe falls not within Tarutao National Marine Park and jurisdiction, and is the exemption of Ko Lipe exempt from the laws that so carefully protect the rest of the national park. Initially, Lipe was Tarutao National Marine Park consists of 51 designated as the island where all Urak Lawoi’ islands, and is located in the Andaman Sea, off people living within the park would be the coast of Satun Province of which it forms resettled; a historic place where their ancestral an administrative part. The park consists of leader To’ Kiri had died and was buried. But two principal island groups: Muu Ko Ta- some things went horribly wrong. First of all, rutao16 and Muu Ko Adang-Rawi17, which are the number of Urak Lawoi’ had increased, and scattered from 15 (Laem Tanyongmara, Ko Lipe is a tiny island. Even more seriously, Tarutao) to 75 (Ko Dong) kilometers distance while forced to move to Lipe, the Urak Lawoi’ from Pak Bara, the port in Satun Province that were not granted any clear rights on the land services the islands from the mainland. The where they settled and built their dwellings. park covers a total area of 1,490 square kilo- This left the way open to project developers to meters (of which 1,260 km2 consist of sea and take advantage of the exceptional status of Ko 230 km2 of islands). The southern limit of the Lipe within Tarutao National Marine Park. Park consists of the sea border with Malaysia. Because of its exception from protective laws, Tarutao National Marine Park was designated it would become the sole island within the ar- on April 19, 1974. It was Thailand's eighth ea where tourism could develop unchecked. national park and its largest national marine The island is now rapidly becoming over- park. The name Tarutao may be a Thai corrup- developed, overpopulated, and polluted. tion of a Malay name, Pulau Tertua (the oldest Conditions changed in order to meet the island). Tarutao itself is the largest island of demands of the constant increase in tourism. the park, encompassing an area of 151 square Lipe is facing grave issues concerning rubbish kilometers. It is 11 kilometers wide and 24 disposal. A stinking rubbish heap is almost kilometers long. Most of its area is rocky, with permanently situated along one of the main a highest point of 708 meters, but plains can thoroughfares on Lipe. Also, there are regular be found in the valleys and near seashores. fresh water shortages. During such shortages Many large and small coves and bays are most water is distributed between the largest scattered along the coast, to each of which resorts on Lipe. The Urak Lawoi’ are runs a small stream flowing from the central frequently overlooked. For them, a bleak part of the island into the sea. future lies ahead: To become redundant and to The other islands in the archipelago often have be economically forced to leave the island a Thai as well as an Urak Lawoi’ name. where their ancestral leader To’ Kiri had Adang is called Hadak in Urak Lawoi’, Dong chosen to live. is called Betok, Klang is called Tangah and In 1982 Tarutao National Marine Park was Lipe is called Nipih. listed as one of the original ASEAN Heritage Ko Lipe is now, like after the first arrival of Parks by UNESCO. In 1990 it was submitted the Urak Lawoi’ in Southern Thai waters, the to UNESCO for inclusion to the World Her- main permanently inhabited island, 60 km itage, but the listing was deferred by the meet- ing of the World Heritage Committee in 1991.

16 As a reason for this deference the insuffi- หมูเกาะตะรุเตา่ TH ciently strong management of the park was 17 หมูเกาะอาดัง่ -ราวี TH quoted. Whether this would be the right term The capitalism brought by the Sino-Thai for the reason of the deference could be a taukay was something unheard of, or at least cause for discussion, though. something the Urak Lawoi’ had not yet been accustomed to. Once a service or good was The Taukay: the Urak Lawoi’s first delivered by the taukay, the price for it had to connection with the outside world be paid. If this could not be done in goods, the Urak Lawoi’ client had to work off his debts The Thai word ‘taukay’18 means ‘match- to his taukay patron. This resulted in often maker’ or ‘go-between’. The taukay of the lifelong relationships between Urak Lawoi’ Andaman Sea are middlemen who not only fisherman and taukay. Despite the restrictions buy products from one party and sell them to this brought for the Urak Lawoi’ fisherman, another, but also provide services such as boat the patron-client relation worked out well for and equipment lease. Another common some Urak Lawoi’. Goods, such as rice, cloth- venture in which taukay are involved is the ing, modern commodities and alcohol were financing of the construction of houses. In the provided by the taukay as long as the Urak widest sense, ‘taukay’ might be translated as Lawoi’ supplied them with a steady amount of ‘trader’. It was in the early 1950’s when the fish. It was an easy life when giving and Urak Lawoi’ were first approached by Thai taking were in balance. On the other hand taukay. The contact would change their life- many Urak Lawoi’ became perpetually style. indebted to the taukay when this was not the It was not that the Urak Lawoi’ were unac- case. If goods were given but payment lagged quainted with the concept of trade, or indeed more and more behind, virtual enslavement money. Loan words from English via Malay loomed. suggest that modern products had already found their way into the life of the Urak As more taukay became involved with the Lawoi’ before their settlement on the Thai Urak Lawoi’ in the nineteen sixties and seven- islands in the Andaman Sea19; It was necessity ties, trade became more balanced and fair, and that made the Urak Lawoi’ hook up with the many Urak Lawoi’ who work for a taukay middlemen. The islands where they had have never had any problems with them. On moved to were remote, and were hardly the island of Lipe a few taukay have opened visited by anybody from the outside world. resorts and/or restaurants. Their staff is Urak The Thai (often Sino-Thai) taukay offered the Lawoi’ an in the months of the tourist season Urak Lawoi’ goods from the mainland for their profit is good and fairly distributed. which they could pay with what they caught, Taukay did not exclusively work from safe or with their labour, and as the Urak Lawoi’ havens on the mainland in Pak Bara or Satun. caught up with modern life, taukay quickly Trust between taukay and Urak Lawoi’ became quite indispensable for their commu- became so well established that many taukay nity. started living part time on the islands and even

brought their families with them. Eventually 18 younger generations of taukay married Urak Thai: - thâwkɛ̀ɛ, usually spelled ‘taukay’ in foreign เฒ่าแก่ Lawoi’ and nowadays most taukay in the language references. 19 Words as ‘ijen’ (via Malay ‘enjin’ from English ‘engine’), Adang Archipelago are at least part Urak ‘sǝtukin’ (via Malay ‘stoking’ from English ‘stocking’), ‘ha- Lawoi’. ma’ (from English ‘hammer’), and interestingly ‘duwiˀ’ (via Apart from bringing trade to the archipelago, Netherlands Indies Malay ‘duit’ from Dutch ‘duit’ (coin, money)) in Urak Lawoi’ prove that the Urak Lawoi’ had trade taukay introduced modern fishing methods encounters with outsiders before arriving in The Thai part of like drive-in net fishing and fishing with the Andaman Sea. dynamite. Both fishing methods require only by To’ Kiri, and far before they had ever seen low investment and offer high profits. Fishing a Thai taukay. with dynamite is very destructive and has been Seen from the bright side, the relationship banned since Tarutau National Marine Park with the taukay has brought the Urak Lawoi’ a opened in 1974. Despite the ban, dynamite lot of good. Goods that could only be acquired fishing was not discontinued until no with great effort by the Urak Lawoi’ are fisherman or taukay could any longer afford provided by taukay. Taukay take care of the the bribe that had to be paid to park officials to necessary boats and fishing equipment, repairs be allowed this type of fishing. Drive-in net damages and supplies spare parts, while Urak fishing is another high-yielding but unfriendly Lawoi’ supply their know-how, skill and way to fish waters with complex ecosystems. labour to guarantee the taukay a profit. The In 1996 drive-net fishing was banned, but taukay has the exclusive rights to buy the fish fishermen were allowed a six month period to caught by the Urak Lawoi’. The catch is sold find alternative ways of fishing. This period against a fixed price, and the fisherman was deemed too short by the, so drive-net doesn’t have to look far for a buyer for his fishing went on illegally. Other than might be perishable goods. Taukay perform an essential stated by government officials and in the service: they are an economic assurance based media, the fishing methods mentioned above on trust, they offer protection from uncertain were used by Urak Lawoi’ in order to fulfil the factors, they provide goods that are not readily available on the islands, and they pro- vide loans. Most importantly, they are the link between the Urak Lawoi’ and the outside world. The economic trans- actions required to buy, transport and market fish are still beyond the capabili- ties of many Urak Lawoi’. Positive- ly, the Urak Lawoi’ fisherman can be considered the cherished younger family members of a Taukay father: Well pro- tected, cared for and hard working fami- ly members. Negatively, the relation between taukay and Urak Lawoi’ can be seen as exploi- tative. Through advances and loans and provision of equipment the Urak Lawoi’ client could be held in perpetual indebt- To’ Kiri’s grave on Ko’ Lipe (photo: author) edness by the taukay. In practice, this means that an Urak Lawoi’ would never be needs of their taukay; they were forms of personally able to lay down an investment for commercial fishing with which catches were any durable goods, such as a boat, fishing hauled that were way beyond the normal catch equipment or a house. Moreover, their catches of an Urak Lawoi’ fisherman. Whether the of fish would eternally be sold against too low Urak Lawoi’ were innocent of the concepts is a price, as the taukay still would make a profit another question. The Urak Lawoi’ word for selling them on the mainland. fishing with dynamite, ‘bom’, is a loan from Although many, especially young Urak either English or Dutch, and thus stems from Lawoi’, recognize the negative aspects of their before they were led to the Thai Andaman Sea relationship with the taukay, he is still often could be arrested without reason. Talking seen as a father figure, or as a well-meaning about this could, according to them, result into boss. being shot dead. After the resettlement of the Urak Lawoi’ on Forced resettlement of the Urak Ko Lipe, traditions that were considered Lawoi’ detrimental for the environment were swiftly dealt with. Fishing with dynamite and the With the designation of Tarutao National practice of bagat were abolished. Especially Marine Park, the Urak Lawoi’ were forced to after 1985 when a park office on Adang was resettle on the island of Lipe. Villages as initiated, fervent and even violent actions Initially the resettlement of the Urak Lawoi’ against bagat began. Apart from old village on Lipe was inconvenient for many of them, sites, bagat sites were now also quickly but not unanticipated in every sense. In 1972, destroyed. On Adang this resulted in the when mass tourism started to come up in Thai- destruction of five villages and two bagat land, the Thai Forestry Department surveyed sites, on Rawi of ten villages and one bagat Tarutao and the nearby Adang archipelago and site. On Dong Island two bagat sites were recognized the island as an appealing place of destroyed21. natural beauty, but the fact that the islands The ban on bagat on the islands of the park in were inhabited was largely overlooked. combination with the forced settlement of the The relationship between the Urak Lawoi’ and Urak Lawoi’ on Lipe did not yield the results the Thai authorities was never very good to that the authorities had had in mind. Instead of begin with, and has deteriorated since, with spread foraging and selectively harvesting some upheavals of goodwill from both sides. from the sea, as had been the way in which The islands of the Tarutao and Adang resources were spared to keep the environment archipelagos had always been under, if any, a healthy and sustainable, now the natural very decentralized and unassuming rule. As resources around Lipe face depletion. The the area was hardly populated by , waters directly around Lipe are being the Satun provincial government had no real overfished and face exhaustion of healthy hab- authority over the island before the designa- itat for marine animals and reduction of biodi- tion of Tarutao National Marine Park. The fact versity. that the islands did indeed have a population at Apart from the destruction of places for living, all was almost a new realization. The Urak foraging and fishing that had been used by the Lawoi’ who, at the beginning of the century, Urak Lawoi’ since their journey from Suma- had been the people who had given Thailand a tra, many of them were manhandled or valid reason to keep the islands under its arrested for ‘crimes’ they did not commit. administration, were now vilified. Fishermen who were collecting their fish traps Since the 1950’s, when Thai government officials first visited the Adang Archipelago, 21 they reported to Bangkok that the islands were The Urak Lawoi’ villages that were removed during the 20 designation of Tarutao National Marine Park are the follow- inhabited by primitive people . Injustice ing: On Rawi: Patai Bawoi’, Patai Payat Somchai, Patai Ya- toward them was rampant. Catches of fish wa, Talo’ Guyae, Talo’ Naka, Talo’ Palian, Talo’ Puloi’, Talo’ Raya, Talo’ Tango’ Dalap and Talo’ Tango’ Luwo; On would regularly be confiscated and Urak Adang: Talo’ Nipa Putso, Talo’ Lilae, Talo’ Jung Mugan, Lawoi’ were forced to work for Thai Talo’ Puya and Talo’ Aye. fishermen or Thai officials. Elder Urak Lawoi’ Bagat sites that were removed are: on Rawi: Talo’ Palian; on Adang: Talo’ Nipa Demi, Talo’ Lawcha; on Dong: Patai remember that in those days, their people Dalap, Patai Laye

20 Wongbusarakum 2002, p. 177 were arrested for allegedly fishing with Now (2011) the relationship between officials dynamite. Catches of fish are confiscated and Urak Lawoi’ on Ko Lipe is still shaky. regularly by park officials when Urak Lawoi’ The present Phûu Yài Bâan of Lipe, Kitchai are accused of fishing in the park areas, where Horpisutthisan, called Phûu Yài Chai by the taking of natural resources is restricted. friends and enemies alike, is a scion of a In the 1980’s, five park officials lost their lives notorious selection of consecutive harsh rulers as they were killed over fishing conflicts, and over the archipelago. in 1985 alone five different park managers were assigned. In the years 1987 and 1988 Kamnan, Phûu Yài Bâan, Taukay, park there were six different chiefs of the Adang authorities and the Urak Lawoi’s right to park station. live

The first leader of the Urak Lawoi’ on Ko Li- pe after To’ Kiri’s death was Kamnan Jong. Jong was a Thai who married To’ Kiri’s daughter. He arrived on the island as a taukay22, mostly buying fish and other marine products. Because he was married to To Kiri’s daughter, he was respected by Urak Lawoi’ as well as Thai. Kamnan Jong was involved in more than one violent conflict. In 1976 a park official in training was killed during an attack on some pirates who had been roaming around the archipelago. The pirates had been Kamnan Jong’s men. In 1985 Kamnan Jong started his House built on the North beach of Ko Lipe for To’ harsh campaign against the Urak Lawoi’s Kiri’s wife and children (photo: author) bagat practices. Phûu Yài Chai is Kamnan Jong’s successor. After the Urak Lawoi’s forced settlement on He is originally from Nakhon Pathom, but he Lipe, the small island has experienced many became the political leader of Lipe in 1985, problems. The confusion that presently exists first by marrying Kamnan Jong’s daughter and about land ownership for the Urak Lawoi’ on To’ Kiri’s granddaughter Jaidee, later by con- Lipe is a matter that helps project development stantly winning the elections for Phûu Yài go astray. Pattaya Beach - a pristine strip of Bâan23. Phûu Yài Chai is a man one size white sand which forms almost the whole bigger than a simple taukay: A man who south coast of the island - is an array of hotels stands between the Urak Lawoi’, the people and resorts, all vying for the tourist’s clientele. who live from the tourism industry, the The Urak Lawoi’ on Lipe now live in very traders, the park officials and the tourists. He humble huts on the places of the island that are is the owner of the largest tourist resort on still available for them. Apart from their Lipe, is a big buyer of fresh seafood from the presence, the only things that reminds us of Urak Lawoi’ fishermen, has a dominant the importance of Ko Lipe for the Urak relationship with all taukay on the island, and Lawoi’ are the graves of To’ Kiri and his was a perfect host to this researcher and his companions and a house that has been built by the government on the north side of the island 22 เถ้าแก่ ,เฒ่าแก่ ,เถ้าเก๋ - contractor, buyer for To’ Kiri’s descendants. 23 ผู้ใหญบ้าน่ - village headman; leader of a หมูบ้าน่ (mùubâan) the smallest administrative unit in rural areas companions. Seen through the eyes of the are given about better times, and sometimes Urak Lawoi’, however, Phûu Yài Chai stands thoughts go back to the legendary times of To’ for everything that is hated in authority. Kiri, when the Urak Lawoi’ were still free and When he arrived on the island in the late had nothing to do with the likes of the Phûu seventies, Phûu Yài Chai bought land from Yài Bâan. Urak Lawoi’ who had earlier made a claim on “He has taken our land and our houses”, Sena the land where they had built their houses. He Hantalay says. “We are now strangers on our secured a large section of Ko Lipe for himself own island.” and maintained law and order on the island, the only place within Tarutao National Marine In the eyes of the Urak Lawoi’, it is not ben- Park were the Urak Lawoi’ were still allowed eficial for them to live in a park. They don’t to settle. As one of the few, and certainly the have the freedom to go where they want, their most powerful, native Thai on the island he bagat journeys have been cancelled, they are was created a Phûu Yài Bâan in 1985 as a ruled by Thai who don’t understand their matter of course. needs, and they have hardly any right to land Phûu Yài Chai has done a lot for the ownership. Their actual fishing grounds have development of Ko Lipe. Thanks to him there diminished drastically, they are driven from is running water, a waste disposal system the last island where they are allowed to live (although this isn’t always working), a fishing by tourists, their island has become dirty and industry completely powered by Urak Lawoi’ overpopulated, their beaches are unkempt and fishermen, and a trade and barter system that the reef is dying from the disposal of raw profits most parties. sewage into sea. After traditional foraging On the other hand, when the government methods had been banned, alternative ways of decides to pump some money into the island’s making one’s living, such as fishing with infrastructure, this often disappears in Phûu dynamite and drive-in net fishing have also Yài Chai’s own pockets, or distributed among been prohibited. ‘contractors’ of Phûu Yài Chai’s own Other than expected, the Urak Lawoi’ hardly companies. Also, official government have any hand in the running of Lipe as a infor-mation - even as important as deadlines tourist paradise, as most restaurant and hotel for land claims, election dates, etc. - often owners are Thai and hire Thai staff. Also, the does not reach the Urak Lawoi’ community on park authorities have never considered hiring Lipe in time.24 Phûu Yài Chai makes a lot of Urak Lawoi’ as park officials. The laws are money with his own resort and the resorts he very strict in the national marine park. The sells his favours to (right of way, catches of encroachment of a house built on park land fish, government aid, favours). He is accepted means a hefty fine, and apart from that, now- by most taukay as ‘the boss’, and park adays for every building - also for a private officials let him do his thing because under his house - a licence must be obtained in advance. ‘reign’ (first as a taukay and later as a Phûu Frustration meets impotence when - as has Yài Bâan) everything seems to go fine. happened more than once - all rules set by the According to almost all Urak Lawoi’ on Lipe, park are ignored by powerful shipping Phûu Yài Chai is not the ideal Phûu Yài Bâan. companies. Commercial fishing has been When talking with Urak Lawoi’ about Phûu introduced in the area, and large fishing Yài Chai, eyes are cast down. Often reminisces vessels do visit the Southern Andaman Sea to fish. Also, regularly ships park in the calm waters around the islands to clean their hulls 24 Asserted by all interviewed Urak Lawoi’ informants. Supin and insides, leaving oil, filth and debris in Wongbusarakum (2002: p. 171) also points out the discontent under the Urak Lawoi’ on Lipe concerning Phûu Yài Chai. their wake as they take off again. In 1995 a factory ship anchored off Adang for weeks, the right to a nationality. The service they did processing small fish into fodder and dog this country was much greater. By providing food. their presence, they prevented colonial power Great Britain to encroach on Siamese territory. An occupation which is taken seriously by After been left alone for forty years, while on many young Urak Lawoi’ is that of tourist Tarutao a prison system was established, the guide. There are very few Thai who know the Urak Lawoi’ were re-recognized as denizens waters of the Tarutao and Adang Archipelagos of Thailand’s remotest islands, only to be as well as the Urak Lawoi’ do. The question is marginalized again when in the 1970’s Ta- only: Do they still know the waters of the rutao National Marine Park was designated. Southern Andaman Sea as well as their Now, the Urak Lawoi’ live an endangered forefathers did? existence on the island where their forebear To’ Kiri had brought them around 1910, and Conclusion where their Thai roots for always lay: Ko Li- pe. Tourism and grand-scale fishing has en- Since their arrival in the Tarutao and Adang dangered the Urak Lawoi’s habitat, and un- Archipelagos of the Southern Andaman Sea, thoughtful, one-sided or egotistical gov- life has changed a lot for the Urak Lawoi’. To ernance might even harm the Urak Lawoi’ start with, they entered a new country; the first people further in the future. that granted them - be it only provisionally -

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