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Northern

Why Go? Debre Libanos ...... 66 For most visitors to Ethiopia, it’s all about the north. Unlike Bahir Dar ...... 68 anywhere else on Earth, northern Ethiopia has the ability to Lake Tana & its wow you day after day after day. Monasteries ...... 72 Known as the Historical Circuit, there are over two millen- Blue Nile Falls nia’s worth of ancient treasures scattered about, from giant (Tis Abay) ...... 76 obelisks and hidden tombs at Aksum to a collection of castles Gonder ...... 77 in and around Gonder, to unique churches in Lalibela, Tig- Simien Mountains ray, Lake Tana and many other places. Not to be outdone by National Park ...... 87 human mastery, Mother Nature really let her creative juices Aksum ...... 93 flow here. The Danakil Depression, an esteemed destina- tion among adventure travellers, features a permanent lava Rock-Hewn Churches of Tigray ...... 108 lake and a bright-yellow sulphuric plain, while canyons and peaks wrinkle the land just about everywhere else. Mekele ...... 115 Though you can hit the highlights in a couple of weeks, Danakil Depression ...... 117 there is so much to see and do here it takes three or four Lalibela ...... 118 weeks for proper exploration. No matter how long you stay, Woldia to the northern circuit is so mesmerising that you’ll probably ...... 128 find yourself still wanting a few more days. When to Go Best of Culture Gonder Temp Rainfall » Lalibela’s rock-hewn °C/°F inches/mm 30/86 6/150 churches (p119 ) » 20/68 Gonder’s Royal Enclosure 4/100 (p 77 ) 10/50 » rock-hewn churches of 2/50 Tigray (p 108 ) 0/32

» Awra Amba (p 72 ) -10/14 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM

Best of Nature Jan Time for Tim- May–Sep The Oct The best » Irta’ale Volcano (p 117 ) kat, the festival rainy season time to travel. celebrating Jesus’ doesn’t stop The rain’s mostly » Dallol (p 118 ) baptism. travel, but it gone, but the land » Simien Mountains makes trekking remains green National Park (p87 ) tough. and gorgeous.

River Tekeze Gorge Fiche Blue Nile Chancho (4543m) Ras Dashen

(Ras ) Battle Site

Simien Mountains Scenic Route Scenic River Goha Tsion Gorge

River Muger River Shire Dejen Tabor Debre

Ὀ Muger (Inda Selassie) a i n s Maytsebri Abay n t Badme National Park Blue Nile Falls (Tis Abay) Addis Zemen Kosoye Simien Mountains M o u Guzara Castle Adi Arkay Awra Amba Zarima Debre Markos Debark Wunenia Mota (4100m) Mt Choke Gonder

Worota Route C h o k e Nile River Lake Tana

Sekela

Lake Scenic Zengena Bahir Dar

Blue Lake Kosober (Injibara) Gorgora Chomen Finote Selam Bure Dangla Durbete Taleli Humero Om-hajer Nekemte S U D A N S U D

Menz- ) (p 106 ) (p 87 (p 119 ) (p 77 ) ) (p 93 cent rock- cent ) (p 108 fi Simien community community

around Lalibela around Immerse yourself yourself Immerse Dream of hidden of Dream Explore the the Explore Roam the Roam Don’t look down look down Don’t See an Ethiopian an Ethiopian See Smell the sulphur, Smell the sulphur, Don’t lose your your lose Don’t Get far away from from away Get far

in Christianity in in Christianity and raw most its the in form powerful rock- mind-blowing in churches hewn Lalibela treasure in the dank treasure ancient gloom of tombs Aksumite of stelae the beneath Aksum hewn churches of of churches hewn Tigray magni hallowed halls of halls of hallowed in retreats the royal Gonder while climbing up to while climbing up to Damo Debre monastery wolf in pristine in pristine wolf at the habitat Community Guassa Conservation Area (p 130 ) (p 130 (p 117 ) (p 117 see the lava and stare and stare the lava see at the in disbelief in the thermometer Depression Danakil Mountains balance as you trek trek as you balance along the endless abysses Abyssinian in the trek (p 125 ) or Tigray (p 111 ) urban life and very and very life urban the locals to close on a 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

Highlights Ethiopia Ethiopia 1 Northern Northern NORTHERN ETHIOPIA 64