coast TRAVEL PROPERTY WEEKENDin GOURMETS will be hot-footing it to Anglesey this month for the yearly oyster festival. But it has much to keep walkers, wildlife lovers and adrenaline junkies happy, too WORDS Elisabeth Mahoney

As far back as the 12th century, the Welsh (for itinerary ideas, visit islandofchoice.com). But to stick to have referred to the island of Anglesey, this one theme would be to miss the very best of the island: just off the north coast of , as a its 125-mile coastal path. Opened last year, this winds past place of generous sustenance. Cross the glorious, unspoilt beaches such as the handsome, broad Menai from the mainland onto Anglesey sweep of Red Wharf Bay and the exquisite smaller cove of and you pass a sign welcoming you to ‘Mon, Borthwen near , and gives walkers a privileged Mam Cymru’ (‘Anglesey, mother of Wales’), view of dramatic, ever-changing scenery cloaked in hues a reference to its traditional role as food of emerald and mossy greens, turquoise and indigo, provider to the rest of Wales, thanks to its richly fertile soil. heathery brown and ancient grey. Best of all, this relatively While tourism supplements farming as a signifi cant undiscovered coastline offers activities for all fi tness levels source of island income these days, echoes of this and moods, from sedate to thrill-seeking. abundant history continue in what is a decidedly foodie Birdwatchers should head for the coastal path around destination, and never more so than in October, when lighthouse, where the infectiously enthusiastic Anglesey hosts its annual Oyster Festival. Now in its staff at Ellin’s Tower RSPB Seabird Centre provide 11th year, the growing success of this gourmet celebration displays, binoculars and CCTV of seabirds, including is testimony to the fact that the Mother of Wales has razorbills, guillemots and puffi ns, with a helpful daily list long had something rather special in her well-stocked of the birds and fl owers you can expect to see along the larder: world-class oysters that hail from the fast-fl owing coastal path. For equilibrium-restoring big skies and water of the . quietude, visit Priory in the north-east of Anglesey, It would be entirely possible, and enjoyable, to spend a 12th-century religious complex sitting in splendid, a weekend on Anglesey sampling the oysters and then contemplative isolation across the water from the dreamy following an informal gastronomic trail around the island peaks of Snowdonia. Here, the island’s palpable sense of FIRST

HOURS24 TAKE TO THE WATER Anglesey’s rugged, unspoilt coastline lends itself to aquatic challenges, and HIT THE SHOPS Be sure to Anglesey Adventures (01407 go shopping in characterful 761777, angleseyadventures.co.uk) . Highlights include offers a great range of adrenaline- Sarah’s Deli (11 Church Street, pumping activities. 01248 811534), splendid antique GET ON YOUR BIKE Pick up a Popular options include extreme A view from Anglesey Welsh furniture at M. Jones a’i Fab Rural Cycling on Anglesey lleafleafl etet adventure coasteering, which might over the Menai Strait Antiques (42 Castle Street, 01248 from a tourist offi ce and hire bikes include abseiling over the biggest to the peaks of Snowdonia beyond 490009), and stylish clothes and at Canolfan Iorwerth Rowlands open cave in Wales, and kayaking homeware at Cole & Co (13 Church Centre in Beaumaris (Steeple Lane, alongside the island’s spectacular Street, 01248 811391). 01248 811508). Whizz by Penmon coastal stacks. Priory, Red Wharf Bay and Black Point, with its views of Puffi n Island.

COAST 00 coast TRAVEL factFILE

history and unspoilt charms unite to create a meditative gem of a spot. The best town in which to base yourself is the charming Beaumaris, with its moated medieval castle, gaily painted Georgian terraces and well-heeled but friendly air. Once a fashionable Victorian watering hole, Beaumaris now boasts thriving independent shops, art galleries, a good WHERE TO EAT choice of restaurants and ✹ Café Neptune, 27 Castle Street, Beaumaris water sports facilities. (01248 812990). Downstairs a fi sh and chip shop, Three miles from Beaumaris upstairs a great fi sh restaurant that serves local, is Anglesey’s newest and most organic and wild catches. unusual place to stay, The ✹ Neuadd Lwyd, Penmyndd (01248 715005, Windmill. This 1741 structure, neuaddlwyd.co.uk, above). Sublime country-house- converted into a luxurious with-rooms setting for delectable four-course dinners. holiday let, has a hot tub in the ✹ Old Boathouse Café and Quarterdeck secluded garden and a top-fl oor Restaurant, Red Wharf Bay (01248 852731). lounge with unrivalled views. The Superb local crab and lobster, plus heart-soaring pleasure of a weekend here is and beautiful views of the sea. partly novelty – it’s like living in ✹ Sarah’s Delicatessen and Coffee House, 11-13 a sturdy helter-skelter – but it’s Church Street, Beaumaris (01248 811534). Stylish really about enjoying part of the deli for picnic fare and café with scrumptious menu. island’s heritage in great style. ✹ The White Eagle, Rhoscolyn (01407 860267, We returned to The Windmill white-eagle.co.uk). Best pub food on Anglesey, after a day’s coastal walking to with award-winning commitment to local produce. fi nd Champagne on ice – the owner’s version of a welcome pack – waiting by the front ABOVE Stay in GETTING THERE door. Drinking it as we stargazed from the hot tub, we this 1741 windmill, Anglesey is reached by the which has been concluded that Anglesey has everything you could want (vehicles only) from the A55, and the converted into a for a weekend away: oysters, Champagne and more than unique holiday let (trains and vehicles) from the A5. Mainline trains stop a small island’s fair share of the great outdoors. coast at and Llanfairpwll on the island, and Arriva Three nights at The Windmill cost from £255. To book, Wales (08701 201088, arrivabus.co.uk) runs regular call 01248 490011 or visit whitebeachholiday.co.uk. bus services from Bangor to Beaumaris. LAZY SUNDAY ANDY HILL; SCOFF SOME SEAFOOD From 12-14 October, the annual Oyster WALK THE COAST PATH Hiking Festival celebrates the excellent on a section of the 125-mile local seafood and the best , almost all Anglesey produce. The weekend SADDLE UP The Isle of Anglesey of which is designated an Area of includes a food fair, with a cooking Riding Centre (01248 430377, Outstanding Natural Beauty, is an demonstration and a hotly tal-y-foel.co.uk) offers two-hour rides absolute must. Consult Carl Rogers’

contested sausage competition, along the Menai Strait shore. It also The Isle of Anglesey Coastal Path – CROWN COPYRIGHT 2006; plus an awards ceremony for the arranges tailored rides exploring Offi cial Guide (£9.99, sold all over best Anglesey producers and a Anglesey’s rich history, including the island and through amazon. gala seafood dinner (01248 725715, the stable’s own noteworthy past: co.uk) or angleseycoastalpath. ALAMY; angleseyoysterfestival.com). the ferry to the mainland ran from com. The area from Bay here from 1464 to 1862. to , taking in , is PHOTOGRAPHS especially rewarding. TOURISM BOARD WALES MICHAEL SHAW;