Italian Cooking Than B a in Our Own , It Is Occasionally Mentioned in a Recipe

Contents

Introduction

Some Usqﬁt l Facts and Figures

Flavo u rin s T m m S ices g , ri ings p

Antipasti

Pasta

Ravioli

Polenta

O t E Cheese D melet es , gg ishes

Po u ltry Game Vegetables

Salads

Sweets

Sau ces

Introduction

’ efo re I co thinking about talian oking, it s as well to give some thoughts to th e good foods native to that sunny

country . And befo re f i co n getting down to the food itsel , g ve some w a I 13 s cc sideration to h t, in taly, its es ential a ompaniment d F t o u w r goo wine . rom north o s th hethe one travels by road ’ n r c or by rail, one doesn t travel far without seei g st et hes of s f S d c vineyard , and from the delight ul oave , pro u ed in the c t V O a vi ini y of erona, to the slightly spicy rvieto of the Umbri n

i ls Lachrim a. C s H l , down to the delicate hri ti with which the ’ N P an d Am alfi is t r Visitor to aples , ompeii regaled , he e s no c in Ital hi c c ex use _ y for stinting the wine with w h to ook or No t I with whi ch to eat the finished dish . all talian wines travel well enough to allow them to be brought acro ss to our o wn I a country, but a little patient exploration of the t lian wine sho ps of So ho will resul t in a fairly lengthy list of Italian wines that can be purchased here in England at a price sufficiently reasonable as to make it not an extravagance to u se them when c I suggested in the re ipe for a truly talian dish, or to form the ‘ ’ hi ghl y agreeable habit of taking a glass or two of Vino with ’ Ma c c one s Pasta or Ossobuco . ke the a quaintan e of your I c hi s n talian wine mer hant talk to him about various wi es , ask him to suggest good wines for certain dishes ; get hi m talking about the different wines to be met with in different parts ’ I al c of his beloved country if he s a true t ian , his advi e will ak his be well worth t ing, and the next time you visit country il ns i you w l order your wine by name , i tead of mumbl ng some

‘ “ thing about half a bottle of that red stuff An d in spite of the ‘ ’ is I a c long l t of named varieties , your tali n wine mer hant will probably point to the wisdom of buying a carafe of the c o f lo al wine , for many these local wines , though they do not l cul travel well , are excel ent when drunk in their own parti ar i place of orig n . No t is I i o only taly a country of w nes , it is also a country f

s ri . T l cheeses , chee es of a stagge ng variety here is no need at a l in Italy to ruin an otherwise perfect di sh by the addi tion of t wo ‘ ’ tablespoonfuls of grated mousetrap , nor is there any need in England nowadays to commit such a solecism when a fairly good range of Italian cheeses may be found in the best provision o shops of most of our large towns . Where cheese for c oking c d Bel P hi c is oncerne , we may have to substitute aese , w h travels ’ M zz c c c well , for o arella , whi h doesn t, and our own ream heese ’ for the Italian Ricotta which again doesn t care much for ’ c c transportation , but where table cheeses are on erned , there s a wide variety from which to choose . An d v - what of the olive groves , where the sil ery grey leaves o f the slender gnarled trees give an other- world appearance " to the landscape Small wonder that so many truly Italian dishes are built upon a foundation of either the fruit, green or ripened to blackness , or the oil extracted from the fruit of s these trees and remember, the use of oil m cooking doe not mean that the resulting dish will be oil -y only the badly c cooked dish merits that adje tive . c c Wines , heeses , olive oil , lemons , lemon jui e and tomatoes c (raw, ooked or rendered down into the puree or conserve we ‘ ’ can now purchase in tooth -paste tubes that allow one to use the c a little without wasting balan e) , green, red , yellow and c variegated peppers , purple egg plants, artichokes , and zuc hini few o f c c are but a the olourful basi foods of the peninsula, but they are enough to go on with . An d so t why, far, no word of PA S TA , hat everpresent , ubi u ito u s I "Fo r P q talian dish the reason that asta , whatever it may

- be to day, is said not originally to have been a native of the c ountry, but is alleged to be one of the many wonders brought 13th c M P home by the entury explorer, arco olo, from his C N P m travels in hina . evertheless , although asta , in its any o ff shapes and forms , may not have started as a true native I - of taly, to day it seems as much a part of the country as an I operatic tenor, and anyone wanting to present a truly talian meal must perforce learn a few of the ways of preparing and c P ooking asta .

So much fo r the food and drink harvested from the land . What about the fruit of the seas that wash the shores of the long, indented coastline , all the strange and lovely fish and " ' shellfis h abounding in the waters What o f the colourfu l fish fish V ni to be seen in the market in e ce , to mention but one " of the famous markets In most coastal towns of Italy fis h is E ’ good and recipes for cooking it abound . nglish taste won t, o f of course, take kindly to all them, and the mention of octopus few E may bring forth a horrified shudder, but nglish men or c d an d women look askan e at a ish of scampi or red mullet , these c c are but two of a great number of delica ies pis atorial . In the following pages an attempt has been made to offer to the English cook a selection of typical Italian dishes that can d It be cooked and enjoye in her own country . is a compilation ‘ ’ d ‘ ’ rather than an invention, for to invent four hun red original Italian recipes would be not merely an impossible tas k but s I an in ult to the established repertoire of talian cooks .

[ 9 ] Some Useful Facts and Figures

C O M PA R IS O N O F E N G L IS H A N D A M E R I CA N W E IG H T S A ND M E A S U R ES

English weights and measu res have been used throughout this In A a book . case it is wished to translate these into their meric n c f ounterparts , the ollowing table gives a comparison

Liq uid Measure

O n e pint of liquid may be regarded as equal to t wo Am eri can measuring cups for all practical purposes .

3 teaspoonfuls equal 1 tablespoonful .

16 tablespoonfuls equal 1 cu p .

Solid Measure A M E R I C A N Butter 2 cups Flour 4 cups Granulated Sugar 2 cups B M 3 rown ( oist) Sugar 23, cups Rice 2 cups

Chopped Meat (ﬁnely packed) 2 cups Lentils or Split Peas 2 cups

Coffee (unground) 23- cups Flour 1 level tbsp Flour 1 heaped tbsp Sugar 1 level tbsp

ounce Butter 1 tbsp smoothed o ff

(Tbsp tablespoonfu l) C O O K IN G T E M P E R AT U R E S

Simmering (water) Bo iling (water) Very slow oven Slow oven Moderately slow oven Moderate oven Moderately hot oven Hot oven Very hot oven

TA B L E O F E "U IVAL E N T OV E N H E AT S

Classiﬁed according to the manufacturer)

lo w Mo derate Mo d H t H S . o o t Very Ho t Exact Tem peratu r e 250 - 325 350 ;375 400 425 450

Can no n (An tim o ) Parkin so n (Adju st o ) l l F ave with No s .

Main wit h No s .

L r d . N w He a . e G C . l

Radiatio n (Regu lo ) 3 4 5 6 7

Plavcl (Letter ) F G G -H H - I I-J

Main (Letter) C-D D -E E E -F F- G

TA B L E O F E "U IVA L E N T O V E N H E AT S

[ 1 1 ] F avour n s Tr mm n s l i g , i i g , Herbs and Spices used 272 It alian Cookery

ere in England the catalogue of herbs in general use is : t h small mint for mint sauce , or for adding to e water k n n ew in which we are coo i g potatoes or peas , parsley di c for garnishes or for an ad tion to white sau e , thyme and ‘ ’ sage as ingredients for what is collectively known as st u fﬁ ng n for pork, veal or a bird , while spices we tend to thi k of as an C C added ingredient to hristmas cake or hristmas pudding , and not too much of them to be used for that purpose . In I the talian kitchen , however, herbs and spices play a far c c more important part , and a hapter is not too mu h to devote T ic to their nature and uses . aking them alphabet ally the follow ing is a fairly comprehensive list : B AT: Although it is po ssible to purchase dried bay leaves at m ’ most herbal stores and at some che ists shops, their ﬂavour f is nothing to be compared with that of a reshly plucked leaf, c fo r and since the shrubs grow well in tubs and , ex ept ade

quate watering need little care or attention , why not grow your " T a own hey m ke an attractive addition to any garden , and even in a small yard or balcony there is room for a small o f If far c tub bay . your house stands enough ba k from the o f f street, a tub of bay each side the ront door is attractive ,

and at the same .time provides a useful m eans of adding to flav u r n your o i g ingredients . A leaf of bay in a risotto removed before serving or v d in a casserole of meat or fish , or e en as an a ded flavour

to the Béchamel base for cream soups is an excellent idea . BASIL : B c asil is a herb little known and used in this ountry , E and one rarely to be met with in the nglish garden , yet its c It S u cultivation is not diffi ult . grows in profusion in o thern Italy where it is used as a fragrant and welcome addition c d to most dishes where tomatoes are used , hoppe finely or preferably torn into fine shreds with the fingers and added c to a green salad , and it also takes its place as a deli ate and

unusual ﬂavo u rin g in some egg dishes and soups . In attempting to grow this delicious herb in an English I garden, remember the heat and sunshine of taly where it n thrives , and choose a sunny corner of your plot or a sun y - f bo x . I window for your experiment , in spite of all your care , se s it refu s to ﬂourish , it is po sible to buy the dried herb from

most herb stores , but as with all dried leaf herbs, it is at

best a poor substitute for the leaves of the growing plant . B ORAGE : This is a herb we in England associate mainly with I al flavo u rin wine cups, but in parts of t y it is used as a g d l l ingredient, sometimes it fin s its way into the fi ing for d ravioli, sometimes , finely chopped , a sprinkling is ad ed to an d c e l a green salad , its flavour ombin s exce lently with It n that o f cucumbers . is a pla t that grows wild on our own S D ussex owns , but ifthese are inaccessible to you , it is possible c It is to pur hase it at some, though not all , herb shops . d c c has a visable to use it qui kly after it is pi ked , as it a ten n de cy to wither quickly . B READCRUMBS : It is an excellent idea to get into the habit - of slicing thinly any left over stale bread , drying it out in the

bottom of the oven when baking, and when it is crisp grind ing it into ﬁne crumbs so that one is never without a jar of as r these ready at hand to be used a coating for f ied foods ,

’ r c or sprinkled , together with g ated heese , on top of a a ic s b ked fish dish , or as a th kening ingredient for variou s n s tu ffi g . CELERT: The Italian clim ate does not appear to pro duce ‘ ’ such a delicious ly crisp eating celery as we are accustomed c fo r c a to in this ountry, whi h reason it rarely m kes an appear c a k an e in its raw st te in that country, but stal s and even are flavo u rin the inner, tender leaves used as g ingredients

in soups and stews . An d I here is a hint , not native to taly, but worth remember I ing when celery is out of se ason . nstead of discarding the c dr tougher, outer stalks , scrub these lean, wipe them y, cu t S and into inch lengths . pread on a tin and dry slowly

on the floor of a slow oven, or on top of your kitchen boiler . h dr re -m flavo u r W en quite y, store in a sc w p jar, and use as a The ing for soups when fresh celery is no longer available . dried stalks can also be used as a flavo u rin g ingredient in e c stews , but in this case it is b st to tie them in a pie e of s m is mu lin, so that they can be re oved before the dish c served , as they are unattractive to the eye on e they have e be n dried . ‘ ’ CHEESE : The o f I variety talian table cheeses is extensive , ‘ ’ but there are three cooking cheeses the names of which I appear time after time in talian recipes . Of e E these thr e , the one best known to nglish cooks is P o f armesan , the apparently high cost which has alarmed more A f . than one inexperienced housewi e ctually, in practice, fo r its this cheese works out not at all extravagantly, texture

is so close , its flavour so concentrated that a very little of it f Do when grated will produce su ficient to go a long way . not ‘ ’ be tempted to go about the use o f Parmesan the easy way l If u c a . by p r hasing it ready ground you , buy a small lump , as even as little two ounces in weight, and grate it freshly fo r c each o casion , the flavour is richer and the cost less than

if you rely on the commercially ground variety . A M nother cheese frequently mentioned is ozzarella , ff hi nf a cheese made from bu alo milk, w ch u ortunately does t not stand up to export, and consequently is not o be found It f Bel P in this country . is airly safe to substitute aese wherever M Bel P a recipe mentions ozzarella , and aese is obtainable

in most good provision stores nowadays . The third cheese fo r which we in England need to think ’ R c up a substitute is the sheep s milk cheese , i otta, met with S t I in ou hern taly, a cheese that when fresh possesses a deli cio u sl M y pungent ﬂavour, but which , as with ozzarella , As does not stand up to export or long keeping . its consistency m u ch t he al is i same as our own sour milk cottage cheese , though the suggestion might sound like rank heresy to an I 1s f talian cook, cottage cheese a airly safe substitute where R ver icotta is prescribed . FE EL The o f m NN : root this vegetable , thinly sliced , for s u d a frequent ingredient in salads, partic larly in and aroun V I m fo r enice, where have often istaken it at ﬁrst bite the hear t o f celery by reason o f its somewhat similar appearance u A fo r and text re . second bite , however, disproves this , there

is a slight ﬂavour of aniseed to fennel , which is absent from c elery . Sliced thinly and sprinkled with salt and marinated in olive

- f o f a . oil , ennel is sometimes served as a tit bit at the end a me l We and the French use the leaves o f fennel as a ﬂavo u r ing ingredient far more than does the Italian cook ; take for example the delicious fennel sauce served as an adjunct to ﬁsh F u se o f as boiled particularly salmon, and the rench it

a ﬂavo urin fo r so ws. Bu t c fo r s r s g ups and ste , ex ept the di t ict aroun d Perugia an d Gubbio and other cities o f the province a of Umbria , the st lk and leaves rarely ﬁnd their way into The Italian recipes . Umbrians are fond of using fennel to

‘ ﬂavour the stu fﬁn g used in roast sucking pig . FISH TI ED OR SAL TED : A c d n , NN n hovies , sar ines , and tun y r n I are f equent i gredients in talian cookery , and it is a good c idea to keep a stock of all three in your store upboard . ’ GARLIC: I c l - Yes , know, we ve all en ountered that gar ic laden breath that has given rise to the legend that all Italian food il i d n o twit h is heav y laced with th s o orous bulb , but legend t o f I l standing, the best ype ta ian cooking prescribes no more than a discreet use of this pungent member of the onion

family . It n o w c is possible to purchase a garli crusher, made on c hi c d the prin iple of a potato ricer, w h enables a few rops of garlic juice to be added to a dis h rather than a too - coarsely d c T e . chopp love hese presses are not cheap , but in labour ﬂavo u r -reﬁ n em en t saving and are a worthwhile investment . Certainl y in and around Naples the use of garlic in dishes

made from tomatoes and in soups is somewhat lavish , and the Neapolitans have a fondness for a dis h of spaghetti r l an d ﬂavoured with nothing mo e than good , fresh o ive oil garlic (here is an instance where your garli c press will give a I a good service) , but in the m in, the use of garlic in t lian cooking is tempered with more restraint than rumour woul d

have one believe . ’ j UNIPER BERRIES : These strike an alien note in Englis h

‘ d ﬂavo u rin s d di min s where g are concerned, but use screetly, ' they form an interesting addit io n t o the stu fﬁ ng for pork

or game . MAR 0 RAM with which ma be classed the elusive herb ORE GANO ] y , mentioned in so man talian reci es which is the wild mar o ram y I p , j similar to that which grows on our English D owns : E . a is a ither the sweet m rjoram, which e sily procurable an d c from a herb shop , whi h many of us grow in our gardens , d I or the wild is a welcome ad ition to many talian dishes, ﬁsh n O to soups , and dishes , while a pi ch in an melet aux b c As r ﬁnes her es does not ome amiss . with all herbs , the f esh

is the . product, when obtainable, infinitely preferable to dried MIN T: In English cookery it usually means the mint sauce we i eat with roast lamb , or a sprig or two to be bo led with new o a t n e fo r the p t toes or wi h spri g p as , and that, except Min t and Cu rrant Pasty o f Lancashire is the extent to which The I c far we use it . talian ook makes a wider use of the herb , particularly in and around Rome where it makes a fairly flavo u rin frequent appearance as a g to soups , fish dishes , d stews an salads . M USHROOMS : Dried mushrooms uninteresting though they may look hanging in strings in an Italian provision sh0 p are excellent used in small quantities in many soups B d and sauces . efore use they shoul first be soaked in warm d 15 0 water to soften them , and added to the ish to 2 minutes vi O c before ser ng time . ver ooked they tend to lose their

flavour and their texture is flabby . M TRTLE The sweet- smelling myrtle of Southern Italy and S has E It icily a stronger odour than our nglish variety . is used less m Italy as a flavo u rin g ingredient than on the island S of ardinia . OLIVE OIL : F - - a requently, all too frequently, al s , one meets the one - voyage -abroad traveller who complains of Italian ‘ ’ food that it is much too oily and one feels that the cooking of the country has once agai n been let down by the wrong kind I ofrestaurant, for though the talian cook uses olive oil lavishly f ds for deep rying , for sala , as a dressing for pasta, etc . , provi c ded the oil and the ook are of first quality, the resulting i d sh is not oily in the objectionable sense , but rich , fragrant

and delicious . The oil , however, must be olive oil of the best quality, and the temptation to substitute an anonymous product making its appearance under the name of ‘ frying oil ’ is one to be m ter ly resisted . Until you know your oils , it is advisable to San R spend your money on a named brand , the emo , for Get c c example . ac ustomed to using a good oil , to re ognising

its ﬂavour and its cooking qualities , and later you may

a - s fely experiment with less well known brands, but even then,

insist that the oil you use must be olive oil , for just as the grey green foliage of the olive tree is an essential feature of the I c talian lands ape , so is the oil of its fruit an essential feature I al c r of t ian ooke y . PARSLE T: It I is used lavishly by talian cooks , in soups , in d di st u ffi n s sala s , as an ingre ent for the g for meats , vegetables If and the various forms of ravioli . you are able to obtain c I his a pa kage of seeds of the true talian parsley, growing t otry The 1s instead of or in addition to our English variety . leaf hi c flatter, t nner and less curly, so that for de orative purposes E our nglish plant may be preferable , but the flavour of the Italian parsley is considerably stronger and more poignant and for that reason I would recommend its use whenever

possible . T Do m hi PINE NU S : experi ent with these , w ch are stocked by A d most vegetarian stores . few choppe and added to a sour - i sweet sauce , or used in place of almonds in cake mak ng, or l n instead of salted a mo ds to be served with drinks, will

reward your courage . ROSEMART: It is a herb we in England tend to think of in ‘ R ’ conjunction with the word emembrance or even , alas , as an ingredient for hair tonic ; as a cooking ingredient it m a see s alien to our t ste . However, chopped and used sparing l u y, since it is extremely p ngent, either fresh or dried it is u delicio s sprinkled over sauté potatoes during cooking, or '

u s a . again sed cautiou ly to ﬂavour roast of veal , pork or lamb In some of the Italian food markets you will see rolled ﬁllets of meat already prepared for roasting and lavishly trimmed E f with this herb , but for nglish taste a little of it goes a airly

long way . ’ T o wn his again is a herb that can be grown in one s garden , and once again you’ ll ﬁnd that a pinch of the fresh is worth

a peck of the dried . SAFFRON : Is u sed mainly to produce a delicate yellow colour C is 'used in some rice dishes, rather as in ornwall it to produce a sim ilar yellow tint in the saffron buns for which that county

is noted . The dried stamens of the Autumn Crocus give u s the true saffr on and when one remembers that there are but three

stamens to one flower, it can be realised what an extensive cultivation of the flower is necessary to produce a very little ff If supply of sa ron . you are working with the dried stamens , l take three or four of these , bruise them to a powder, and a low t hem to steep in a little hot water or soup for five or six utes before adding the strained liquid to the dish you are A m colouring . quicker method is to purchase , literally, a thi blefu l of powdered saffron from one of the many Italian c f S gro ery stores to be ound in oho , and experiment by adding

it a pinch at a time until you have obtained the desired colour . The ﬂavour of saffron is so delicate that it is apt to be obscured by the stronger predom inating ﬂavours of the dish

so that, preferable though it always is to use the true product, u f t m t in this case, the substitution of a man ac ured i i ation ff does not materially a ect the taste of the ﬁnished dish . SAGE : Alt hough this herb is used less in Italian cooking than B a in our own , it is occasionally mentioned in a recipe . ec use f - I o its heavy under taste , it is to many lovers of talian cooking a less attractive than basil or wild marjor m . SAL T: Here is a case where I would urge you to forsake the i c nicely packed , beaut fully ground ommercial salt and to try the experiment o fusing the sea salt that can be purchased T from the provisions department of most big stores . here are wooden salt mills that can be used at table for adding this

salt to cooked food, and once tried , these are usually pre c the ferred to the tri kle or in our damp climate, frequent lack- o f- trickle of commercial salt from a salt shaker or salt

spoon . n SPICES a few o f the most commo . Cinnamon : Instead of conﬁning its use to cakes and apple r c dishes , t y the occasional pin h in a meat or vegetable dish . Cloves : So in e I talian cookery books prescribe a pinch , a very modest pinch of this aromatic herb in stewed meat or meat

sauces , and it is a tip worth trying . Coriander seeds: Keep a small jar of these in your spice cup board and try one or two cru shed as a ﬂavo u ring for roast

meat . Fennel seeds : These are used fo r flavo u rin g far more than are the leaves and stalks o f the raw plant and there is o f a specially delicious kind of salami , native to the city ‘ ’ Florence which takes its name fi n o cchio n a from the fact that fennel seeds are predominant in its flavo u rin g ingre dients . In some parts o f Italy and Sicily these seeds are used also as fl rin r a avo u g fo dried figs . Nutmeg : By all means continue to use this spice as a fla vo u rin \ g in milk dishes , but do experiment now and again c with the wider use ofit a pin h in a meat stew, or in potato

soup, or in any dish using spinach makes a welcome addition . Pepper : If you have not yet forsaken the commercially packaged ready ground pepper for the pleasure o f grinding c I pepper orns in your own pepper mill , cannot too strongly d The urge you to do so without elay . improvement in ﬂavour

is almost unbelievable . TARRAGO : Is u se E fo r N a herb we little here in ngland, and

that reason it is not always easy to procure it in this country , but a leaf or two in a salad is a reward for the effort of run n c ni g it to earth , while the deli ate ﬂavour of tarragon vinegar

n ti ast i - p is the name given to the large variety of tit bits , ’ i I or hors d oeuvres wh ch , in a truly talian household , T are served as a prelude to pasta or soup . hey may consist

‘ of a few wafer- thin slices of salam i with a garnish of a couple of few ‘ anchovies and a black olives, or they may be considerably t more elaborate , but whatever their nature hey must be s l interesting to look at and appetising to taste . ome o f the fo s ﬁl l fo r lowing suggestion may you with apprehension ; instance, boiled rice combined with grated carrots , or the slice of ham to o f be eaten with an ice cold slice honeydew melon, or with ’ o f a couple ripe ﬁgs , but taste and try, and you ll probably come back for more .

[ 20 ] A N T I P A S T I M A D E W I T H R I C E

Really delicious antipasti can be concocted start in g with a basis of plain boiled rice . o Allow one tablespoonful of rice per person , and b il in salted ‘ R E ’ D d n IC . water as directed un er the headi g of rain , and before it is quite cold season with a tablespoon of olive oil to s u l c n each table poonf of un ooked rice, freshly grou d black f d s u c pepper, more salt i nee ed , and a tea poonf l of lemon jui e s c c or wine vinegar, plu a suspi ion of ﬁnely hopped or crushed Al c . garli , or a few shavings very thin of onion low to c become quite old , then mix with any of the following, or a combination of t wo or t hree of them :

c al a c c c Grated raw arrot using h f s mu h arrot as ri e .

t as Finely shredded raw green peppers quanti y for carrot .

T ﬁsh l i ﬁsh unny broken sma l with a fork, equal quantit es of

and rice , and even better with the addition of one anchovy

per tablespoonful of tu nny ﬁsh .

F l a as c inely chopped green o ives, h lf much as ri e .

r1ce . Whole black olives , four or ﬁve per tablespoonful of

M n hi n i ced cold c cken , equal qua tities with rice .

Mu ms u shroo , raw or cooked in eq al quantities .

F ns m resh peeled shrimps or praw , or if available , sca pi , and to hl enhance these , add also a generous amount of fres y chopped c F ns parsley and a few ooked green peas or rench bea .

C c hopped celery hearts , ﬁnely chopped fennel , ﬁnely sli ed pre in the served artichoke hearts equal quantities with rice , are an d three other alternatives, with these try the addition of few a blanched and chopped almonds or pine nuts .

as as l Using the foregoing suggestions a b is , you shou d be able to utilise left-over boiled rice to good advantage to produce ’ o an interesting hors d euvre .

[ 2 1 ] H A R I C O T O R B U T T E R B E A N S W I T H F I S H

It is now possible to buy cooked butter beans in tins , or alterna t ivel y you may use the small white haricot beans , remembering t however that these need soaking overnight, and hen boiling d for quite three hours the following day before they are ten er .

Whichever you decide to use , drain and marinate with a little i under a tablespoonful of ol ve oil to a tablespoonful of beans, seasoning with salt, pepper and a little grated onion , and a little S a lemon juice or vinegar . erve with equ l quantities of ﬂaked r tunny ﬁsh , ve y cold .

F E N N E L A N T I P A S T O

head of fennel freshly ground 3 tablespoons olive o il black pepper 1 tablespoon lem on salt juice

fo r t wo Wash a head of fennel , and soak in very cold water S c or three hours to allow it to become crisp . li e thinly, and pile hi on a dish . With it hand the above dressing, into w ch the fen Mix nel is dipped before eating . well together and serve cold .

S T U F F E D F E N N E L O R C E L E R Y

a Wash the tender stalks of either of these , so k in cold water to allow them to become crisp , and before serving spread with cottage cheese, pounded anchovies , or a combination of the two .

[ 22 ] O T H E R W A Y S W I T H F E N N E L

Try combining thinly sliced fennel with thinly sliced crisp red t nl c d c c c radishes, or with hi y sli ed unpeele ucumber, in ea h ase c serving with a dressing of oil, lemon jui e , pepper and salt,

li . and a sprink ng of parsley, or mint ﬁnely chopped

F O R T U N A T A R U O C C O ’ S C O L D P E P P E R A N T I P A S T O

To each person allow 1 pepper (assorted colours make ﬁnished more attractive) 1 small teaspoonful best olive oil % lemon a scraping of garlic

Prepar e your peppers by baking them whole in a ﬁreproof dish placed in a larger dish with water halfway the height of the C n dish containing the peppers . ook until the skins are wri kled t R 6 about i hour egulo . C o ff re ool slightly, peel the thin outer skin , cut in two and S move all the seeds . lice thinly, and arrange on a serving dish , alternating the colours if you have been able to procure peppers S c of varied colours . prinkle with a s raping of garlic, and mari

. C hl w nate with olive oil ool thoroug y before serving, and allo f o hal a lemon per pers n when the ﬁnished dish is served .

Hot Antipas ti

In addition to the galaxy of ideas for cold antipasti , or hors ’ o r I d l d euv es , our talian friends are fon of serving delicious litt e hot tit- bits that take the same place in the repast as the cold chi l antipasti , and are a triﬂe less l ing on a cool day . Here are bo w suggestions for some of these , which can also make their as c i s ri h l ttle avouries to be served with drinks . C H I C K E N T A R T L E T S

I c B breakfastcu fu l m ix two nto a little ri h échamel sauce , say a p , P tablespoons grated armesan , and quarter of a pound or more c d of cold ooke chicken , cut into small pieces, a few chopped o u t lVIix mushrooms , and a slice oflean ham small . well together, and use as a ﬁlling fo r tartlets .

C H I C K E N L I V E R T A R T L E T S

T c B his time , impregnate your upful of échamel with chopped s M chicken liver that have been cooked in a little arsala, and to c Mix this add hopped mushrooms and seasonings . well and use s to ﬁll small pastry tartlet .

S T U F F E D M U S H R O O M S

‘ ’ C u u ms w h hoose the small b tton m shroo , and allo t ree or four per person . P an d m al s eel, re ove the st ks, setting the stalk aside to be added DON’T to soup stock or tomato sauce waste them, whatever ﬂa rin vo u . S m m you do , they are far too good a g auté the ushroo s in hot butter ; meanwhile heat the contents of a small tin o f ms u r anchovies , and when the mushroo are cooked , place a c led anchovy inside each mushroom (the dark side is the side to

S . receive the anchovy) . erve on toothpicks while still very hot

A N C H O V Y T O A S T TO SERVE 4

M o f o f a v m ash to a paste the contents a small tin ncho ies , ixing P o f with a little melted butter . repare some slices bread about

4 . On inches by 2 inches , and toast on one side only the other c v side spread the an ho y paste fairly thickly, sprinkle with grated

P if few . B armesan, and liked a chopped green olives rown under

a hot grill and serve while piping hot . H O T A N T I P A S T O M A D E w-I T H G R E E N P E P P E R S

For eachperson allo w 1 green pepper a suspicion of garlic 1 peeled tomato a few drops of oil half a dozen capers from the anchovies two or more anchovies

Remove the seeds from the peppers after having sliced o ff the u ff c c top ; st the avity with one peeled tomato to ea h pepper, add i e c a suspicion ofgarl c, two or mor an hovies , half a dozen capers , R and a few drops of the oil from the anchovies . eplace the top of each pepper . P c ﬁ re- c m - la e in a proof deep dish , pla e in a mediu hot oven R ul 45 min n ( eg o bake utes , basti g at intervals with the balance of the oil from the tin of anchovies and a little hot water . S f erve be ore or in place of soup , very hot . These are even more attractive if baked in in dividual ﬁ re proof dishes .

P A N D O R A T O A L L A R O M A N A Fried bread in the Roman fashion

Fo r thl S rec1 e - c er p , allow one or two half inch sli es of bread p u o person , and remove the cr sts so that your slices are ab ut 3 - a inches squ re . mi two b a You will need also a little warmed lk , one or e ten i l fo r ni and eggs , depend ng on the number of slices , sa t seaso ng, o il for frying . An e o i c hour b fore starting to co k the sl es , spread them in a single layer in a lar ge ﬂat dish and sprinkle them with warm c milk, and then with sufﬁ ient beaten egg to soak the bread a L without m king it soggy . eave for an hour , then lift each slice

gently with a spatula and fry in hot oil, ﬁrst on one side then on n the other u til golden brown .

[ 25 ] F R I E D B R E A D W I T H A N C H O V I E S

Allow one or one and a half slices of bread per person ; cut the c c slices about half an in h in thi kness, remove the crusts and To r a cut in two , lengthways . each st ip of bread llow a little BEL PAESE and half an anchovy an d fo r the whole dish allow one or two eggs depending on the quantity o f bread to be pre

pared . You will need also pepper and salt for seasoning, ﬂour

an d oil for frying . On half the number of strips of bread Spread a layer o fBEL PAESE c cu t , and on that lay half an an hovy into small pieces .

S . eason with pepper, and cover with the second slice

Heat the oil in a pan , and meanwhile dip the sandwiches In In I first of all water or a little milk, then flour and finally n fr c beaten egg , and y qui kly, first on one side and then on the

S . other until golden brown . erve very hot

P A N D O R A T O A L L A C R E M A D I ‘ F O R M A G G I O

Fried bread with cheese cream TO SERVE 4

6 f slices of bread , hal an inch in thickness , with crusts removed and cut in two lengthways

G e 1 lb . ruy re cheese a walnut of butter 2 pint milk, or a lit eggs , separated tle more

hi o f W p the whites of eggs . Having prepared the strips bread ,

dip them first in water or a little milk, then in flour , then in the whipped egg whites ; fry them in hot olive oil and when golden f brown , lay in a flat fireproo dish and cover with the following cheese cream

F R I E D G R E E N O L I V E S — 3 4 large Spanish 1 anchovy to each olives per person 4 olives a thick slice of bread ﬂour with the crust pepper and salt removed batter and oil for frying

Peel the olives in a spiral so that you can remove the stone without breaking the flesh ; soak the bread in a little water, and when it has become saturated , squeeze it dry in the fo r hand ; one slice should be sufficient half a dozen anchovies . Remove the bones from the anchovies an d pound them in a o a mort r, t gether with the bread , a few drops of olive oil and seaso n them with freshly ground black pepper . When they are ff o f m ix reduced to a paste , stu the cavities the olives with the t ture , then dip in flour, and after that into a hin batter, and fry

D f . in hot olive oil . rain well be ore serving

[ 28 ] f m r o f o f I oup or s an integral pa t the daily diet taly, and t I a the varie y of t lian soups is considerable . S c tarting with a basis of hicken or meat stock, we have we several plain, clear broths, of the consommé type , have the ‘ ’ - d ever popular minestrone type, where the stock is lace with an assortment ofvegetables , eked out with dried peas or beans , and ‘ c m oc asionally meat, and there are the various for s of pasta in ’ brodo . ‘ ’ The Italian verb minestrare to serve up soup derives ‘ ’ from a similar Latin verb m i nestrare whi ch has the fu ller ‘ ’ ni n m mea ng of putti g food on the table , and it must be ad itted that when a bowl of really good minestrone is placed before c a one , it has the appearan e of a me l in itself, and could well r ce se ve as such , sin there seems to be no end to the many ingredients that can ﬁnd their way into this tasty and typically I i . talian d sh , and all to its betterment ‘ ’ Pasta in brodo is the term applied to a generou s portion o f o f a any the large variety of past s , cooked and served in hot ‘ broth , and taking the same place in the menu as the pasta ’ c a o as iutta , or dry past , co ked and served with various sauces, ‘ A’ with which we have dealt in the section headed PAST . ’ The variety of ﬁs h soups in the Italian cook s repertoire is far greater than in our own, and although cream soups and F I al purées were originally more used in rance than in t y, with the passage of years a fairly large number o f recipes for these wa I l an d have found their y into ta ian cookery books , adapted amended so t hat they now pass as very nearly native to the country of their adoption .

Where the consommés , the minestre, ans he pasta in brodo m i are concerned, although the fa ly stockpot is not absolutely m c essential , it is strongly to be recom ended if time and spa e T r l permit . here are, it is true, some t u y excellent chicken and il n o w v beef bou lon cubes obtainable in good pro ision stores , but the best o f these is but a substitute for the broth resulting ‘ fr m l - - Fo r I o the operation o f a wel run stock pot . that reason am ﬁ starting the recipes o f this sectio n with 2 suggestions for Soup S tock . S T O C K F O R C L E A R S O U P

2 pounds lea n beef shin 4 cloves stu ck into of beef is excellent the onion 2 quarts cold water 6 whole peppercorns 1 small oni on 1 bay leaf few a stalks of celery salt , pepper, and a sprig of parsley

Cu t meat small, place in a stew pan and cover with cold water ' S o ﬂ c and bring slowly to the boil . kim any s um that rises to the C top with a perforated spoon . over stewpan closely and let it i c re m fo r 6 . S a si mer slowly hours or rather more tr n , ool and fat R : l move . eplace in pan , adding onion stuck with c oves and al c S fo r celery cut sm l , parsley, pepper orns and bayleaf. immer f 0 Add a urther 2 minutes after bringing to the boil . salt and

S . pepper to taste . train through a cloth T fo r his is an excellent basis any clear soup , to which may be ‘ ’ ‘ ’ a added pasta for a dish of pasta in brodo , rice , or pe rl barley.

H O U S E H O L D S T O C K P O T 3 quarts of cold 1 small onion stuck water with 4 cloves 3 pounds o f meat ; 6 peppercorns trim m ings from parsley 1 steak, bones , etc . stalk celery, and the addition chopped small of a ham bone or salt and pepper bacon knuckle bone is excellent

This is a stock that may be used as a foundation for many kinds o f c fo r c soups or sau es , asserole dishes , etc . Place meat in a stewpan and cover with cold water and bring C m 5 slowly to the boil , skimming well . over and si mer for hours, m or longer, add balance of ingredients and si mer one hour Add o f di more . salt and pepper to taste , being chary ad ng too much salt if you have among your meat a ham or bacon bone . S R train and set aside to cool . emove the fat before using . B i fo r al rought to the boil once daily, th s stock will last sever days without spoiling . C H I C K E N B R O T H To SERVE 6

l boiling fowl 1 pinch thym e

2 carrots a dash of nutmeg, 1 onion salt and pepper to 3 stalks celery taste 1 tablespoon 4 quar ts o f water chopped parsley

P l lace all ingredients in saucepan, bring to boi and skim ; lower R heat and simmer for 2 hours or until fowl is tender . emove fowl, strain soup through a ﬁne sieve , allow to cool and remove R . T i o f fat eheat . h s is a good basic soup for any the varieties of pasta in brodo . Try it with Cappelletti ﬁlled with the following mixtur e

the breast o f the boiled 1 egg plus one egg chi cken chopped ﬁne yolk 3 o l lb . cottage cheese tablesp ons grated 2 tablespoons butter Parmesan salt and pepper

Mix Dro well together and use as filling fo r Cappelletti . p into l c boi ing hicken broth five or six minutes before serving . h W ere cream soups are concerned the starting point is a good , B n a rich échamel sauce , thi ner th n used when intended purely c as a sau e , but made with care and using the best ingredients , m The f butter, flour , ilk and seasonings . ollowing is a good, reliable recipe for a Béchamel to be used as a basis for cream soup to serve four people :

l gto 2 ounces butter l l pints hot milk 2 tablespoons ﬂour pepper and salt

Melt the butter in a small sau cepan or in the top of your double o al Add b iler, but do not low it to brown . the ﬂour and blend well together, stirring constantly to prevent its going lumpy . Add i ui hi the hot m lk slowly, contin ng to stir . When t ckened , t 15 rw allow to cook very slowly for a fur her minutes , othe ise l Add i the taste of the ﬂour wil predominate . a little extra m lk It m t o o if if looks like beco ing thick, and you are unfortunate enough to have it go lumpy, do not hesitate to pass it through

a strainer, though if the ﬂour and butter are well blended and the mixture is stirred constantly lumps should be conspicuous

by their absence . Once your Béchamel is properly blended and while it is ‘ ’ maturing in the top of your double boiler, you have time to prepare the vegetables for the particular cream soup you have in mind . A time and washing - u p saver is to make the Bécham el from

start to ﬁnish in the top of your double boiler, rather than using a separate saucepan fo r the preliminary cooking and then transferring it to the top o f the double boiler once the blending

is completed . On e small and permissible economy that is often an improve ment in ﬂavour is to eke out the quantity o f m ilk by substitut ing for one- third or one - quarter of it the hot water from a sauce P pan o f cooking vegetables . otato water is excellent ; so is the B water in which russels Sprouts or celery are being cooked, but here it is as well to test the liquid for saltiness before adding B s it to the échamel , rejecting it if it is too highly salted , unle s

- you are prepared to eat an over salted soup .

A R E A L L Y G O O D M I N E S T R O N E TO SERVE 6

1 o f 2 pound salt pork carrots , diced al cut sm l 5 lb . haricot beans , 2 quarts water, or soaked overnight

better, beef stock 4 lb . peas before 2 tablespoons ﬁnely shelling shelled chopped parsley a few French beans . 1 clove crushed gar 4 tablespoons rice lic if liked grated Parmesan tablespoon butter pepper and salt small cabbage

Place cut up pork in water or stock and bring to the boil before

adding parsley, garlic and chopped vegetables , peas and beans . A c llow to boil gently for 25 hours , then add rice and ook for

t a S s . S a fur her qu rter of an hour . eason to ta te erve with a layer

o f Parm esan cheese sprinkled over the soup in the tureen . M I N E S T R O N E N o . 2 TO SERVE 4

l 4lb . sa t pork cut in l cupful shelled green sm all pieces peas 1 large or two small 1 small tin sweet corn oni on s salt an d pepper to 2 quarts water taste 1 large carrot }1 cupful o f small 1 head celery macaroni elbow s a small spring macaroni , pa tina (rice -shaped maca 1 i 5 a lettuce ron ) or alphabet ni pound tomatoes macaro , small df F o f a han ul of rench stars , or any the

beans , cut in pieces small types

Fry the pork in a little lard until it is Slightly brown ; add oni on cu t small and co ok till golden brown ; add water and bring to the boil ; add carrots an d celery cut into sm all pieces ; add shred c c e ded cabbage and lettu e , beans , peas and orn , salt and p pper

a . C 1 to t ste over and allow to cook gently for about 4 hours . T mi f S wenty nutes be ore serving add the macaroni . erve hot the - P m and with soup hand grated ar esan to be added at will .

M N I N E S T R O N E o . 3 TO SERVE 4

l l c g quarts of water 2 loves garlic crushed 1 F s 2 d lb . rench bean , tablespoons choppe two d l or cups shelle fresh basi , or if this peas is unobtainable 4 potatoes medium 2 ta blespoons size chopped parsley

. d 1 f lb tomatoes, peele teaspoon ul tomato and cut into small paste pieces grated Parmesan m salt and pepper to 4 lb . ver icelli taste

[ 33 ] t c Heat wa er to boiling point and add beans cut in pie es , or a o u t peas , together with the pot toes small and the tomatoes C and seasoning . ook together until vegetables are tender abo ut 25 minutes t hen add the Vermicelli and cook for ‘ ’ 15 al Mix a further minutes or until the pasta is dente . together

the crushed garlic , basil or parsley and tomato paste with a f an d spoon ul or two of the soup to make a smooth paste, mix

t r , wi h the balance of the soup , stir ing well to ensure that it is

well blended . S P m erve with plenty of grated ar esan .

L E N T I L S O U P W I T H D R I E D Y E L L O W L E N T I L S To SERVE 4

1b l o n 4 . dried yel ow 2 medium sized lentils soaked ions chopped ﬁnely overnight 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 quart stock 2 stalks of celery cut I ham or gammon bone ﬁne

D rain lentils and add to stock, and gammon bone , bring to the 1 R boil, simmer gently in a covered saucepan for 5 hours . emove

bone and pass so u p through a food m ill or sieve . Heat oil in a heavy pan and in it cook the celery and on ion m gently for ten inutes . Add r to the soup and se ve very hot .

[ 34 ]

Having soaked and squeezed the bread so that all liquid 13 out o f m ix it, with the meat, lightly beaten eggs and seasonings . o f m Having ﬂoured your hands, take a little the ixture between o f F them, and roll into a ball about the size half an egg . latten an d them slightly, fry on both sides in hot olive oil ; allow to drain for a few minutes before adding to the soup .

B R O W N L E N T I L S O U P To SERVE 4

4 5 lb . brown lentils \ tablespoons olive oil 1 onion ﬁnely chopped 1 m edlu m size tin 1 clove garlic crushed tomatoes 1 heaped tablespoon salt and pepper to ﬁnely chopped parsley taste

The l - o lenti s for this soup are the khaki col ured whole lentils , NOT the orange - coloured dried lentils which require longer soaking . C l fo r ook the lentils in 2 quarts of boiling, s ightly salted water ’ an hour ; strain but don t throw away the liquor and set R to on one side . eplace liquor in saucepan, bring the boil and add parsley, onion and garlic, and when boiling furiously add k mi the oil and allow to boil fairly bris ly for a further ten nutes . Add strained tomatoes ; replace lentils and boil gently for twenty S minutes more . erve very hot .

S P I N A C H S O U P To SERVE 4

1 c 2 lb . spina h before tablespoons ﬂour c ooking 2 pints water , or

2 tablespoons olive oil better , chicken 1 c clove garli , crushed stock

[ 36 ] u ree S n . Wash, cook and p pi ach s Heat oil in heavy pan, add cru hed garlic and when brown

. B e remove lend in the ﬂour, add pur ed spinach and water ; fo r bring to boil and cook gently half an hour . Serve with cro ﬁ t o ns P r of toast and grated a mesan .

M I N E S T R A C R E C Y TO SERVE 4

4 medi u m sized carrots 1 pints beef stock (cooked in boilin g 4 tablespoonfuls salted water and rice passed thr ough a Salt and pepper to fo od mill) taste 1 teaspoon sugar

B an d bo il 20 ring stock to the boil , add rice for minutes ; just '

e . before serving, add pur ed carrot, sugar and a knob of butter

S P I N A C H S O U P To SERVE 4

. 2 o ns 4 lb spinach , tablespo weighed before butter cooking 1}4 pints meat stock 1 tablespoon ﬂour or mi lk

c Wash spinach in several waters , ook gently in the water adhering to its leaves after the ﬁnal washi ng plu s a small

c . C pin h of salt ook rather longer than usual , and reduce water c until spina h is nearly dry, then pass through a sieve or food

M d eanwhile heat butter in pan, blen ﬂour and slowly add m c an d add ilk or sto k bring to boil , slowly spinach purée , m ix l wel and serve hot with snippets of toast .

[ 37 ] A S L I G H T L Y R I C H E R S P I N A C H S O U P

c the 30 Pr oceed as dire ted in previous recipe , but at end of min utes cooking add the following m ixture :

2 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper lightly beaten to taste 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan

l Blend together and stir into boi ing soup , allowing eggs to curdle slightly and serve immediately .

Z U P P A P A V E S E TO SERVE 4

‘ ’ Fo r this really nourishing meal in itself soup , you need a quart its of clear chicken broth , into which at the end of cooking time one egg at a time is t hrown into the boiling soup for each ‘ ’ c consumer, stirred rapidly while it poa hes , and removed to its individual soup bowl while the other eggs are similarly treated .

A L T E R N A T I V E M E T H O D F O R Z U P P A P A V E S E

I nd c f you do not mi your eggs very lightly poached , pla e a half-inch slice of toasted French bread in each individual as soup bowl , and on to it break an egg very carefully so not O to break the yolk . ver this pour the boiling soup , and serve im mediately .

[ 38 ] Z U P P A‘gP A R A D l s o TO SERVE 6

’ L S c La Cucina c R . s This re ipe , given in ose or e s , is ju t too good

not to be included .

2 quarts good soup 4 eggs separated stock 4 tablespo ons 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan breadcru mbs pepper and salt nutmeg

B ring soup to a boil , slowly add the following mixture a spoon ful 5 8 at a time , boil to minutes and serve . Be hi ff at the egg w tes till sti , add beaten yolks and beat till well blended , add cheese , breadcrumbs .

S T R A C C I A T E L L A One more soup with eggs To SERVE 4 2 eggs 2 teaspoons ﬁne 1 tablespoon grated semolina Parmesan 15» pints chicken broth

Bea s t eggs , and blend with semolina and chee e , add a cupful bea w ll B t t e . of cold bro h, and ring the remainder of the broth m w t to the boil , and slowly add the egg ixture , beating i h a fork or whi sk ; allow to cook slowly for four or ﬁve minutes before ‘ ’

The . serving . eggs will appear as little ﬂakes or rags in the soup

C H E S T N U T S O U P To SERVE 4

4 1 } lb . chestnuts bay leaf 1 ham 2 pints stock, or slice lean mixed stock and 2 cloves water [ 39 ] S s core the chestnut across the pointed end, and bake in a mo 10 15 mi derate oven to nutes , after which it should be sim ple to remove the outer and inner skins . Peel and put to cook slowly with the water and ham and 40 mi P seasonings, for nutes or slightly longer . ass through m e s f a sieve or food ill and s rve with snippet of ried bread .

V E G E T A B L E S O U P TO SERVE 4

3 large onions 2 outer stalks celery 1 1 lb . ripe fresh large carrot tomato es cooked 1 clove garlic a few green peas crushed or French beans 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 quart hot water

Heat oil in heavy pan, chop vegetables and cook in oil till slightly brown ; add hot water gradually and cook together fo r f u P u f m . hal an ho r . ass thro gh a ood ill or sieve before serving

Z U P P A A L L A F O U B O N N E To SERVE 4

2 large leeks 2 large onions 2 carrots 1 yellow turnip 1 slice ham 1 ounce butter 1 quart meat stock

e H at butter in heavy pan, and in it place chopped vegetables Add and ham and cook gently until lightly browned . stock and 40 m P l cook together inutes . ass through a sieve or food mi l , c r repla e on heat and boil fo a further 5 m inutes . Serve with s P m snippets of toa t and grated ar esan . L E T T U C E S O U P To SERVE 4

2 heads of lettuce 15» pints salted water f co s 1 i ; preferably clove garlic , 55 lettuce crushed 1 tablespoonfu l grated Parm esan olive oil croutons of bread

r Wash lettuce, sh ed ﬁnely and boil until tender in boiling l u salted water . Heat oil in heavy pan, a low cr shed garlic mi i to cook for three nutes , remove garlic and add oil to sw ftly S ni boiling lettuce a few minutes before servin g . erve with s p f pets o bread , black pepper and with it hand a bowl of grated

Parm esan .

M A R R O W S O U P A L L A N A P O L I T A N A TO SERVE 4

1 medium sized water vegetable m arrow 4 eggs 1 hini 4 or lb . zucc tablespoons (the tiny marrows grated Parm es about 4- inches 2 tablespo ons or 5 -inches in chopped parsley lengt h) 1 teaspoon choppe d 1 tablespoonful lard fresh basil if salt and peppe r obtainable to taste 2 slices toasted bread

Cu t m r w an d the a ro into slices , having heated the lard in a stewpan , add marrow, pepper and salt, and when it has has cooked a few m inutes but before it started to brown, add C l sufficient water to cover . over the pan and cook gently unti n the marrow is tender (about 20 mi utes) . B P eat the eggs , add the armesan , parsley and basil , and add Mix to the marrow mixture . well , keep hot for a few minutes ,

but do not allow to boil or the eggs will curdle .

Serve in warmed soup bowls with croutons o f toast . G A R L I C S O U P To SERVE 4

4 c n loves garlic , 2 tablespoo s olive crushed oil 1 quart clear stock 4 tablespoons 2 tablespoons grated Parmesan chopped parsley croutons of toast

Heat oil in stewpan and in it sauté garlic for two or three al S minutes , add stock and simmer for h f an hour . train into soup tureen , adding parsley and cheese at moment of serving , cro fIt n s s with o of toa t .

C H E E S E A N D O N I O N S O U P To SERVE 4

z 3 large onions 2 o s . butter 1 teaspoon ﬂour 1 quart hot stock sal t and pepper

Use a heavy pan for this soup . Heat butter until it begins to brown, add onions thinly sliced , and sprinkled with ﬂour, fry briskly, turning with a wooden spoon to make sure all are c ooked until they are brown rather than gold coloured . Add heated stock little by little , stirring all the time , add salt to taste , hl and a generous helping of fres y ground black pepper, and allow to boil for twenty minutes with saucepan uncovered . P c t he our into heavy earthenware tureen, overing surface - c i with a raft of half inch sli es of stale bread or toast, over wh ch n i o f P m spri kle a th ck layer grated armesan , or a ixture of P a c P c armesan and gr ted Gruyere heese . la e in very hot oven

d S . so that cheese melts and turn gol en . erve immediately

[ 42 ]

C R E A M O F T O M A T O S O U P TO SERVE 4

ozs . butter l tablespoonful tablespoon ﬂour chopped parsley large tomatoes or l }a pints beef stock 1 medium sized a} wineglass full tin o f tomatoes o f cream 1 large or 2 smal l grated Parmesan onions croutons of bread toasted

an d o c Heat the butter in a heavy pan , in it co k ﬁnely hopped s onion until yellow, and ﬂour and blend together, then add raw ai if tomatoes, skinned and seeded if , str ned they are the S t . tinned varie y, and the chopped parsley eason with salt and pepper and allow to cook over a slow heat, stirring all the time ; f f a ter three or our minutes add stock, bring to boil and allow P to cook gently for half an hour . ass through sieve or food

- m t e ms i . ill , heat, adding a little more stock if it see too th ck I nto a soup tureen place the cream and a knob of butter . Pour over this a little o f the purée and beat with an egg whisk S r s u s before adding the remainder . erve ga ni hed with cro ton P n and grated arm esa .

C R E A M O F M U S H R O O M S O U P TO SERVE 4

‘ ’ Prepare a Béchamel Sauce as directed under SAU CES bu t u 1 o f mi o f 1 sing 4 pints hot lk , instead just pint, so as to avoid - M l : a too thick consistency . eanwhile, prepare the fol owing

1b n f o f § . mushrooms , l wi eglass ul chopped ﬁnely sherry l tablespo onful 1 clove garlic chopped parsley pepper

2 ozs . butter sal t

4 pint chicken stock nutmeg , if liked

[ 44 ] u i Heat the butter, and in it allow the cr shed garl c to cook for few mi hr ms a nutes ; remove , and add the mus oo , cut small , an d allow to sauté gently until cooked ; add the wine and bring i to a bubbling bo l ; reduce the heat, add the parsley and sea so nin gs an d co o k gently for a few minutes before adding the B B stock . ring to the boil before amalgamating with the échamel , ul d d l which sho be keeping hot in the top of your ouble boi er . r Serve ve y hot .

F I S H S O U P S

E d i We in nglan are not g ven to preparing fish soups, but in S F an d I a m outhern rance in t ly these are im ensely popular, c and for that reason, a few re ipes ought rightly to appear in any c I ompendium of talian cooking . ‘ Where your Italian cook says casually take a selection of ’ fish , it has to be remembered that in his selection can be c fish in luded a great many that are not native to our waters , n c as nor easily obtai able in this country, su h octopus , lampreys al Bu t E d (a variety of eel) c amari or squid , scampi . we in nglan ‘ ’ can l fish sti l , given a little ingenuity, produce a selection of d that shoul produce a fish soup that is tasty and nourishing . Tr w y combining sole with pra ns or shrimps, a few scallops , d co d l a little smoke haddock , or smoked fil et just let your imagin ation work an d let your eye wander around the fishm o n ’ ger s slab . Z U P P A A L L A M A R I N A R A ’ Sailors soup

‘ TO SERVE 4 A DON ’T bout two pounds of assorted fish , and leave the heads ’ fi shm o n er s c or skins at the g , but bring them home and ook them with a bay leaf and a few peppercorns and a sprig of fi sh c d parsley in about two pints of water, until the is ooke ; ‘ ’ an d strain, here is your stock .

1 1 small onion cut in oz . butter small pieces 4 a wineglassful l stalk of celery cut of white wine small 14 to 2 pints of 4 tomatoes , peeled stock prepared as and cut in pieces suggested Heat the butter in a stewpan and in it cook the onion until c it is golden yellow, then add the elery , tomatoes , pepper and salt and allow to cook together for a few minutes before adding d fis h fish your assortment of prepare , any shell shelled , and c add c c other fish boned and cut in pie es ; the sto k, ook together for twenty minutes and serve with snippets of toast or bread .

Z U P P A D I P E S C E A L L A G E N O V E S E Genoeseﬁsh soup TO SERVE 4

2 lbs . of assorted tablespoons oil ﬂat and shell or 2 stalks celery

fish , prepared and , bay leaf in the case of the wineglassful dry cu t flat fish , in white wine pieces ; saving the anchovies

heads , skins and clove of garlic bones to make medium sized stock by cooking onion with two pints of 1 tablespoon

water, a bay leaf chopped parsley and a few pepper 1 pint cleaned corns mussels “ Heat the oil and in it brown the chopped onion , add the c o u t l chopped elery and parsley; and the anchovies sma l , the crushed clove of garlic an d the wine and cook together two ﬁ sh or three minutes ; add the prepared , with the exception an d c of the mussels the sto k, and cook together for twenty mi nutes ; about twelve minutes before serving, add the cleaned r mussels and continue to cook until all are opened , then se ve c the soup immediately, with slices of risp toast or freshly fried

bread .

Z U P P A D I P E S C E D E I P E S C A T O R I D I P O Z Z U O L I Fish soup made by the Fishermen of Pozzuoli

F P rom ozzuoli, once one of the chief commercial ports of the M R i editerranean in the days of oman dom nation, and previ o u sl G c y one of the most important reek ities of the region , and n o w fi hi l s not much more than a s ng Vi lage , the fi hing fleet goes o u t each year for a fis hing season in the waters o f Santa M The arinella . Villagers help the fishermen with their nets ,

and it is the custom for the fishermen to prepare , at sea , d l fis h . a e icious soup , which they share with the villagers ’ T m ake at his is a soup you won t be able to \ home , one you ’ n won t be able to taste , u less you happen one day to be lucky enough to join this fishing fleet during their su mmer migration r P M Bu S . t f om ozzuoli to anta arinella imagine the scene ,

- the rough old fashioned stove on board the boat , the earthen hi ware pot in w ch, with plenty of water, an assortment of fr ﬁs h eshly caught and cleaned is cooked , with a few tomatoes ,

a clove or two or garlic, a few spoonfuls of oil , and a coarsely chopped red pepper ; cooked together for twenty minutes or

so, then served in earthenware soup plates , with lumps of home

baked bread brought by the villagers to the ﬁs hing ﬂeet .

[ 47 1 Z U P P A D I P E S C E A L L A S I R A C U S A N A Fish soup as p repared in Sy racuse TO SERVE 4

A S nother fishing town , yracuse , where carp swim lazily in the spring into which Arethusa is said to have changed when - A N pursued by the river god lpheus, and where , later on , elson put in fo r a su ffi cen t ly long time to write one of his famous letters to Emma Hamilton before proceeding to his victory A at the Nile . famous fish soup in served in this pleasant Sicilian town .

l 1 2 bs. assorted stalk celery 2 ﬁsh , the heads , tablespoons oil

skins and bones salt, pepper of which are to 1 tablespoon u sed to make chopped parsley 2 pints of stock 1 bay leaf 1 medium sized 4 or 6 tomatoes onion 1 wineglassful white 1 clove crushed wine garlic

T In f his is a ﬁsh cooked in the oven . a ﬁreproo casserole r m x la ge eno ugh to hold the entire i ture , place your prepared

fish, the larger pieces cut small , together with the chopped a onion, p rsley, laurel leaf, celery cut small , tomatoes skinned u f and cut up , crushed garlic, oil , wine and s ficient of the pre fis h . S pared stock to cover well eason with salt and pepper, put the lid of the casserole on and weight it down if necessary to 40 ensure a tight fit, and place in a moderate oven for min B S . f. utes efore serving, remove the bay lea erve with toasted or fried bread .

[ 48 ] he Italian term Pasta covers a multitude of various shapes and form s of what we in England tend to lu m p together in o u r minds under the heading o f Macaroni S a tti or p ghe . Fo r centuries now Pasta has formed an integral part of the I a t lian diet , but whether or not it originated in that country On e was is open to question . theory is that it among the m any curiosities and wonders brought back by the traveller Marco Polo when he returned to Italy during the 13th Century aft er a in O o f ye rs of travel the rient, and in an account his travels there is a description of the Chi nese making a kind of dough c ri i c whi h they cut in st ps and dried in the sun , wh h strips he I l Lasa ne h s refers to by the ta ian name of g , the name used to t i I l d - Pa a stas . day in t y for one of the broa , ﬂat ribbon type E M P arlier than arco olo , however , there is a reference to Pasta I a l L B mi in tali n iterature , in the ife of the lessed Her t 1 00 William, a holy man who lived around the year 2 , which M P rather discounts the arco olo legend . It looks as though we are safe to assume that Macaroni has as good a chance of being native to Italy as Noo dles have of being o f Chinese origin ; the name given to the kind of Pasta matters less for the purpo se of this bo ok tha n the various ways

of cooking the product . A word ﬁrst o f all abo ut the various types of Pasta to be met

- I . S m l with in taly tarting with the ﬁne string like ver ice li , too ﬁn e o its s c to have a b re through centre , the tubular type ome in all widths fr om the regular and familiar Macaroni and Spaghet ti - Canneloni - t , to the three inch lengths of , three quar ers of an diam hi imi a o inch in eter w ch, after a prel n ry cooking in b iling u ff re- an d water are st ed and cooked in various ways, served

s . up with sauce, or with chee e and butter T Pas ta S ls E o w C t here are the fancy shapes of , hel , lb s , ar T A L u wheels , wists , even lphabet etters; and there are the vario s s a Noodles Ta liarellini ﬂat type , the n rrow , the broader g , progress Lasa ne l the -t ing to the broad g , and there are a so tiny rice ype i Pas tina - a gra ns known as , and small star shapes used as a g rnish The t n t li t o f for soups . varie y is i ﬁni e and the po ssibi ies cooking the us i vario types into tempting d shes are en dl ess . Cooking Procedures

P rovided one remembers a few simple rules, nothing could be P ta much simpler than the cooking of as . 1 See . to it that you use a large utensil, a really capacious saucepan in which is an ample quantity of really boiling water allow at least a gallon of boiling water per pound o f of pasta , and to each gallon add a tablespoonful cooking B Pasta salt . efore attempting to add the , see that the water Pasta is at a proper boil, and add the slowly so as not to let o ff the water go the boil, for once the temperature of the water drops below boiling point you are running the risk Pasta u of having your turn into a soft, r bbery mass, instead the s of desired separate strand or pieces, depending on which

variety o f Pasta you are cooking . If o u S a hetti Macaroni y are using the long, uncut p g or , ’ don t spoil the Italian appearance o f your finished dish by ’ breaking the Pasta into shorter lengths ; don t get alarmed ifat ds o f first the long en stick out of your saucepan water, once the submerged part has been heated through it will soften sufficiently for you to be able to persuade the long ends to

follow suit . On e reason fo r the emphasis on using a large enough ‘ ’ saucepan is the need to allow for the frothing that takes place when once the Pasta itself reaches boiling point ; lower fﬁ your heat a triﬂe when this occurs , but not su ciently to let F m ru n the water drop below boiling point . rom ti e to time a fork or spoon around your saucepan to loosen any stray ends of Pasta that may adhere to the bottom or sides of the

utensil . ’ - 2 . . f o f Whatever you do , don t all into the error over cooking Pasta your , and where cooking time is concerned , you may have to go through a period o f trial and error before yo u discover the correct cooking time fo r your o wn particular

taste . The true Italian likes to be able to bite his cooked Pasta ‘ ’ l al he wi l tell you it must be dente (to suit the tooth) , but while it m ust certainly not be soft enough to dissolve in ‘ ’ th e n mouth , it must need o ly the tenderest of bites , such as you might give to shall we say a piece of Shrove Tuesday The n t ff pancake . cooki g time will vary wi h the di erent Pasta varieties and thicknesses of , and it is a fairly safe maxim in the early days o f Pasta- cooking to study the instru ctions

How Much Pasta Per Person "

It Pasta is difﬁcult to suggest quantities of per person, for while z one pound of pasta might be ample for half a do en people , there are addicts to whom a personal share of half a pound might not be too much , while others might abstain from tack A ‘ ’ ling more than two ounces . fairly safe allowance is three an c ounces per person, plus added three or four oun es for every al fo r an a sixth person, to low that little more ddict might demand . The following recipes will give you an idea o f some of the many ways you can serve this typically Italian food once you have mastered the simple art of preparing your Pasta by its initial cooking in boiling water .

’ These all come under the category of Pasta asciutta (Dry ' Pasta s Pas ta in B rodo P ) to distingui h them from , or asta served as an addition and an essential ingredient of certain broths an d soups .

A R E C I P E F O R H O M E - M A D E P A S T A

Although there are excellent commercial brands of pasta in z the various shapes and si es , if you are a good pastry maker a and have time to experiment, you may care to try your h nd If at making pasta for yourself. you do , remember that the cooking time for the home- made variety is considerably less than that requ ired for the packaged types 5 to 7 m inutes is all that is necessary . i - You will need a fa rly large pastry board, and a longer than usual rolling pin . The a fﬁ following qu ntities will give you su cient tagliatelle,

- six . the most usual type of home made pasta , for people

1 1b. ﬂour a pinch of salt 2 or preferably lukewarm water 3 eggs

[ 52 ] r n Pile your ﬂour in a mound on you pastry board, maki g ddl c d n a well in the mi e into whi h break your eggs , ad i g salt , u and to start with a couple of tablespoons of l kewarm water . Fold the ﬂour over the eggs and water and knead until the If ff add liquid is used up . the paste is too sti , a little more ‘ ’

c . water, but be areful not to drown it When the paste can be

s . formed into a fairly solid ball , its con istency is right You flo u rin d i should now knead it, g your han s lightly from t me flo u rin to time , and g the board , for at least ten minutes ; then , It ll dividing it into two po rtions start the rolling process . wi need quite ten rollings and the board an d roller should be F ul hi lightly floured between rollings . inally it sho d be t n enough , metaphorically speaking, to read the newspaper S c o f through it . pread a floured loth over the back a chair and lay the paste over it whi le you proceed similarly with the hi f. other hal When both sheets are rolled t n, leave them to dry l f hi as out for ha f an hour, a ter w ch roll them up you would S n i ui ix a wiss roll , or pi wheel b sc t m ture , and with a sharp knife cut across the roll at intervals of a quarter of an inch or La c less . y them on a floured loth until you are ready to cook l 5 7 mi n d your tagliatel e , and remember, to nutes in boili g salte water will be ample . A useful hin t if you have difficulty in finding a really c long roller for pasta , a length of broomstick makes an ex ellent an d o f c one , for drying the pasta , again a length broomsti k chairbacks n resting on two , so that the pasta can ha g over ' c d 15 u sefu l re a loth raped over the broomstick, 22a i ; dodge to member . T A G L I A T E L L E A L L A C R E M A To SERVE 6

3 1 lb. tagliatelle eggs cooked in the 4 ounces butter approved fashion pinch of nutmeg 8 tablespoo ns grated pinch of salt Parmesan 1 pint milk 2 tablespoons ﬂour

Place four tablespo ons of the grated cheese with the flour in a saucepan and mix slowly with the milk and a pinch of salt P c and nutmeg . la e on a slow heat and stir with a wooden hi l spoon until it t ckens , add a nut of butter and blend we l , then remove from the fire, add the remainder of the butter th e r and balance of the g ated cheese , and finally, when it has hi o . cooled a trifle , the beaten y lks of the three eggs W p the egg Add whites separately and fold into the first mixture . the cooked and drained tagliatelle to the sauce , place in a greased earthen o r - ware oven glass dish, and allow to cook in a medium oven f for quar ter o an hour .

S O U F F L E O F T A G L I A T E L L E TO SERVE 4

1 1 b. tagliatelle 6 tablespoons 1}1 teaspoons ﬂour Parmesan

3 ozs . butter grated i pint m ilk salt a pinch of n utm eg

The - s fo r i home made pa ta made with eggs is preferable th s , m C though the co mercially made spaghetti may be used . ook m n in boiling salted water in the approved a ner, remembering 1 12 m that whereas the bought variety will need 0 to inutes, the home - made will need no more than ﬁve Meanwhi le prepare the following sauce M n elt butter in a saucepa , and before it begins to turn

n m . S brow , blend in the ﬂour and add ilk slowly tir until it thi ckens and allow to cook over boiling water for a further 12 15 o to minutes , seas n with salt, pepper , nutmeg and the P n S grated armesa , mix well and remove from the heat . eparate has eggs, beat yolks lightly and add to the sauce when it cooled f s c . a little , otherwise the yolk may urdle Whip egg whites sti f c and fold into the sauce . Have ready the ooked and drained l c c r is tagliatel e , ombine with the sau e , slowly, so as to ensu e it P c so u fﬂé c really well mixed . la e in a buttered dish and ook in 0 mi S i is moderate oven for 2 nutes . erve in the dish in wh ch it cooked .

T A G L I A T E L L E W I T H A N C H O V Y A N D T U N N Y F I S H TO SERVE 4

lb . tagliatelle 2 tablespoons olive cooked in the oil approved mann er 1 clove garlic - z 1 a 6 o . tin of tunny tablespoon freshly ﬁsh chopped parsley 3 or 4 an chovies 1} pint good stock

t wo Heat oil in a heavy pan, add garlic and cook for or three e add c minut s , tunny and anchovies broken into small pie es u rided r an d n o o . or p , add pa sley co k for four or ﬁve mi utes S al Add an d eason with s t and pepper . stock slowly bring to bo iling point . P l our over coo ked tagliatel e and m ix well .

S P A G H E T T I C O N S A L S A D I V O N G O L E Spaghetti with Clam Sauce TO SERVE 6

1 pound spaghetti cooked in the approved manner . When cooked and drained pour over it hot Clam Sauce (See recipe ‘ ’ under SAUCES ) and serve with or without grated Parmesa n c heese .

[ 55 ] F E T T U C I N E W I T H M E A T S A U C E A N D C H E E S E TO SERVE 4

F c m di ettu ine are our old friends , ho e made tagliatelle , hi ng, so t to Speak, under a pseudonym, the name give hem in the Fo r district around Rome . this dish you need the following ingredients :

1 » lb . fettucine 1 pint or rather m ore 4 tablespoons grated brown sauce Parmesan (see ‘ SAU CES ’ )

When the fettucine are cooked and drained , place in a heated t deep ﬁreproof dish , and cover wi h the meat sauce and the P f two s grated armesan , lifting the ettucine with fork to ensure S r that it is completely masked by the sauce . e ve with a bowl c a P ont ining more grated armesan , to be added at will .

S P A G H E T T I W I T H M E A T B A L L S TO SERVE 6

' ' 1 an d lb . spaghetti pepper salt to

or macaroni , taste cooked as directed 1 small onion 1 or 2 cloves o f

1 . garlic, crushed lb lean beef 3 tablespoons olive oil pas sed thr ough 1 large tin tomatoes the m incer 1 tablespoon tomato 2 thick slices whi te pas te bread l» pint water 1 small onion 1 tablespoon brown 1 tablespoon sugar chopped parsley

a good pinch o f 3 ozs . grated oregano if Parmesan 1 available, or egg failing this a pinch salt and pepper of dried thyme to taste Soak the bread in water, squeeze dry and mash with a fork , ni c d and to it add the o on hopped ﬁnely , the parsley, groun

f n . B bee , cheese and seasoni gs eat the egg lightly and combine with the foregoing mixture ; shape into small balls this 1 D amou nt should make about 2 and fry in hot fat . rain and set aside . v Heat the oil in a hea y pan , add chopped onion and crushed garlic and cook till golden ; add strained tomatoes, tomato i paste th nned down with a little water , the balance of the half o pint f water, sugar, oregano , pepper and salt ; lower heat, c cover and ook slowly for an hour .

At the . c end of an hour, add the meat balls , cover pan on e more and allow to cook slowly for another half an hour before d serving over the freshly cooke spaghetti . P With this dish hand a bowl of freshly grated armesan , to be added at will .

E L B O W M A C A R O N I P I E TO SERVE 6

o . 2 lb . elbow macar 4 lb cooked meat, ni cooked in the chopped ﬁnely approved fashion 2 eggs "pint tomato sauce short crust pastry (see recipes for sufﬁcient to line ‘ SAU CES ’ ) and top your 4 tablespoons grated casserole Parmesan cheese

Grease an earthenware or oven-glass casserole and line wit h Mix o a pastry . together your co ked mac roni , tomato sauce , an B cheese and chopped meat d lay on top of pastry . eat eggs C . r lightly and pour over the mixture over with short crust past y , a us and b ke in moderate oven for half an hour, or until cr t is brown .

Serve hot .

This with a simple salad makes a fai rly sustaining meal .

[ 5 7 ] B A K E D M A C A R O N I W I T H C H E E S E To SERVE 4

m » n 1 pint ilk 4 lb . elbow macaro i C salt and pepper 4 lb . heddar cheese to taste

P l S artly cook macaroni in boi ing salted water drain . cald c milk, stir in ma aroni , add pepper and salt, grate and add c c heese . When well blended , transfer to ﬁreproof asserole and a 30 b ke minutes in moderate oven , stirring gently after about 10 c minutes to make sure it is not sti king to bottom of casserole .

S P A G H E T T I W I T H B U T T E R A N D C H E E S E

On e of the sim plest and at the same time one of the most delico u s fo r hi o f macaroni dishes this, and one w ch any the o f m a various forms pasta y be employed .

For each person allo w

4 1 3 to ozs . pasta really generous ‘ 1 tablespoon or lump of go od more of grated butter Parmesan cheese

The method o f cooking pasta has already been described in detail . a When cooked , bl nched and drained, stir the butter and im m edi cheese into the dish of pasta, allow to melt and serve ately, handing at the same time a dish of the grated cheese so t hat more may be added at will .

[ 58 ]

S P A G H E T T I W I T H O I L A N D G A R L I C To SERVE 2

1 } lb . spaghetti a generous pinch of 4 tablespoons best basil olive oil salt to tas te at least 2 cloves

garlic, crushed

c While your spaghetti is ooking , heat the oil in a heavy pan , d c fo r m add crushe garlic and basil , and ook two or three inutes so as to allow the oil to become thoroughl y impregnated with th the ﬂavour of e garlic . W hen the spaghetti has been cooked and drained , pile in m a heated dish , add the oil and garlic ixture , blend well , and serve with freshly ground black pepper and generous helpings P of freshly ground armesan .

S P A G H E T T I W I T H G R E E N O L I V E O I L S A U C E TO SERVE 2

» . 4 c 1 lb spaghetti, loves garlic, cooked in chopped ﬁnely f hi u approved as on, or cr shed then piled in 4 tablespoons olive is and a heated d h , oil served blended at least 4 heaped with the adjoin tablespoons ing sauce ﬁnely chopped parsley

i Heat oil in a heavy pan ; add garl c and allow to brown slightly , add chopped parsley and simmer gently for ﬁve minu tes . P our over cooked and drained spaghetti , mix well and serve P with grated armesan and black pepper .

[ 60 ] Three Iypically Sicilian Recipes

S P A G H E T T I W I T H A N C H O V I E S J To SERVE 4

i 1 c 1 lb . spaghett or small tin an hovies ‘ ’ shells (about a dozen just under quarter ﬁl lets) of a pint of good 8 tablespoons grated olive oil Parmesan cheese 1 clove garlic sal t and pepper

an d Heat your oil in a heavy frying pan , when hot add garlic,

fr . C crushed, and y until it is brown, then remove hop anchovies t into short leng hs , add to hot oil and cook for a couple of min Add utes , stirring with a wooden spoon . plenty of black pep o f per, but add salt with caution, remembering the saltiness Ad d a . d nchovies this to a dish of cooked and rained spaghetti , n P im m edi toppi g with the grated armesan cheese , and serve ately .

S P A G H E T T I W I T H F R E S H F E N N E L S A U C E TO SERVE 4 OR 5

1 a . lb . sp ghetti lb fennel 4 tablespoons olive large or 2 sm all oil onions 1 1 cup cold water lb . fresh sardines ,

6 ozs . dried pilchards or ﬁbreadcru m bs sprats 1 tablespo on pine 1 tablespo on sul nuts or blanched tanas or seedless ahn o n ds raisins

C lean and bone fish . Clean fennel and cook fo r 15 minutes in abou t a quart of D boiling water . rain and chop small . Heat olive oil in a stewpan and co ok in it the chopped fish f r onion until it is a golden colour, add , cook gently o 10 m in utes , stirring frequently ; add fennel, sultanas and nuts , cold water and seasoning and allow to simmer gently fo r 10 m inutes . Place breadcru mbs on a fireproof plate below a hot grill fo r few a seconds to brown . M eanwhile cook the spaghetti in the approved method .

When cooked and drained , place in deep , warmed dish , pour over half the ﬁsh and fennel sauce and half the breadcrumbs T and mix well . hen pile on balance of fennel mixture and n top with remai der of breadcrumbs and serve very hot .

M A C A R O N I W I T H B R O C C O L I TO SERVE 4

1 1h w . elbo macaroni 4 pint Olive oil

W m ni l a hile the acaro is cooking , clean the brocco i, bre k into

10 m . small pieces , and cook inutes in boiling salted water f Heat oil, in a heavy rying pan, drain and add broccoli , and fr r y lightly fo 3 or 4 minutes . P s P G . rease a casserole, sprinkle with grated arme an ile into t r his the cooked and d ained macaroni , and over it pour the c Mix S P broc oli and oil . well . prinkle with more grated arme

fo r 5 m . S . san , and place in a hot oven inutes erve very hot

S P A G H E T T I W I T H B A C O N , D E G G , A N O N I O N TO SERVE 4

4 4 3 to ozs . of rashers back bacon spaghetti per 4 eggs person 4 medium sized onions

While you are cooking your spaghetti in the approved manner , peel and chop your onions ﬁnely and fry them to a light golden hue in a heavy frying pan wit h olive Oil or butter ; when they are evenly coloured a pale gold, add your rashers B he cut into small pieces . y t time these are cooked your spa hi h ghetti should be ready for blanc ng and draining . W en d n rained, add it to the bacon and o ion in the pan , break the d d S o eggs on to the mixture , stir rapi ly with a woo en po n , and i serve immediately the eggs have begun to th cken , a matter F hl c of a few seconds . res y ground bla k pepper is a necessary d h d f P a junct to t is dish , as is a ish of reshly grated armesan cheese t o be handed to the cons umers and added to individual

taste . L A S A G N E V E R D I

T a O hese are the pale green strips of past , cut in blongs as large 3 as inches by 2 inches , and although it is possible and permis sible to u se in their place the green ribbon noodles obtainable f in most shops that sell pasta , you may, if you are success ul - a m with your home made t gliatelle , wish to experi ent with this a reﬁnement of past . Fo r six people the quantities are the same as those fo r taglia ns t telle , except that i ead of lukewarm water for mixing, you 3 c e hi Is need oun es of pur ed spinach (w ch weighed after, not

before cooking, remember) .

Start again with your pound of ﬂour heaped on a board , with hi a well made in the centre into w ch you break three eggs . A h n fter blending t ese with the ﬂour, work in the spi ach , and an d c proceed with your kneading, rolling, drying utting as you did l c for the tag iatelle , except that instead of utting the pasta

cu t O . into strips , you it into rather large , ﬂat blongs e- O Using either your hom made blongs of lasagne , or a pound

of bought green noodles, you can make one of the most famous pasta dishes of all L A S A G N E A L F O R N O TO SERVE 6

2 ta blespoons olive 1 tablespo on tomato oil paste

1b i 1 . . m nced beef lb lasagne or m z edium si e onion, green noodles M chopped ﬁnely 4 to 1 1b. ozzarella l crushed clove of or Bel Paese cheese garlic 3 tablespoons grated 1 pint water Parmesan

an add n Heat oil in a heavy frying p , the o ion and garlic , and

m . when slightly browned, add and brown the inced meat B lend the tomato paste with a little water, pepper and salt, dilute with the balance of the water and pour slowly over the 1 meat ; cover and allow to simmer gently for 4 hours . T 1 l w ake lb . lasagne and cook in rapid y boiling salted ater, 5 7 if - 15 m if to minutes the lasagne is home made, inutes com m r iall B e c y packaged . lanch and drain . G o r e rease an oven glass arthenware casserole , and in it lay o f a layer of the cooked lasagne , a layer meat sauce and a layer Bel P Of Mozzarella or failing this of aese . Continue filling the fi hi dish in layers until all the ingredients are used up, nis ng l c with the ba ance of the sau e poured over the finished dish, P B 20 which should be topped with grated armesan . ake for mi nutes in medium oven . L A S A G N E I M B O T T I T E Stufled Noodles TO SERVE 4

1 medium SlZ eCl tin 1 tablespoon tomato tomatoes paste 4 tablespoons hot 2 tablespoons Olive water Oil 1 c c 1 cu t love garli , stick celery, crushed small

salt and pepper to 4 lb . cottage cheese Bel P taste 4 lb . aese u 6 tablespoons grated 4 lb . sa sages

- Parmesan 4 lb . home made lasagne or green bought noodles

Heat olive oil in heavy pan an d brown garlic for about 3 an d utes ; blend the tomato paste with hot water, add to garlic , c c 3 mi together with di ed elery and tomatoes ; after about nutes , i S lower heat and allow to s mmer for one hour . eason with pepper and salt . Fr y sausage in separate pan until brown, and cut into small pieces . Boil lasagne or noodl es in boiling salted water as previously

Dr . directed . ain I s al o f nto a greased ca serole place ternate layers lasagne , P Bel P tomato sauce , armesan, more sauce , aese, sausage and w more sauce, ﬁnishing ith a layer of sauce topped with grated B d c 0 . heese . ake in moderate oven 2 minutes When serving han i ra P at the same t me balance o f tomato sauce and g ted arm esan . C A N N E L L O N I F I L L E D W I T H C H E E S E A N D S A U S A G E TO SERVE 4

A ‘ ’ lthough it is possible to buy the large channel macaroni , and after a preliminary cooking to fill them with the filling i - a is c m xture, the home made v riety far preferable , and on e again c T Bu t the re ipe for pasta given under agliatelle may be used . when it has had its final rolling it must be cut into Oblongs about 4 c 3 in hes by inches, and cooked , a few at a time , in boiling salted water for four or five minutes , removed gently with a perforated spoon so as not to break them , and allowed to cool . Fo r 4 four people allow 20 to 2 cannelloni .

lb . cottage lb . sausages

1" cheese 2 cup tomato sauce grated Parmesan (see ‘ SAUCES ’ )

P c rick the sausages and place them in a pan , over with water, c the heat and allow to ook until water has evaporated , then let the sausages remain a few minutes in the fat that will have C escaped from them in the cooking . ool slightly, skin and mash the filling and mix with the cheese . P lace a little filling, about a tablespoonful , in the centre of G fir a . e each piece of past , and roll up into a tube rease a flat f l proo dish we l and in it place the cannelloni side by side , and c f t over them pour tomato sau e , not quite su ficient to cover hem ; n P c an d dot with butter and spri kle with grated armesan heese , place in moderate oven for 15 minutes before serving .

[ 66 ]

T d if hese can be ma e overnight wished . To d cook, have ready a large pan of boiling salte water and t transfer your envelopes of pasta one at a ime , until all are in the water, allowing them to cook for four or ﬁve minutes or R until they rise to the top of the pan . emove them one at a time c c with a perforated spoon or sli e , pla e in a heated dish, and serve with a generous helping of melted butter and grated P T . enve armesan, or with any preferred sauce hese little ﬁlled

’ 10 e u al l delicio u s c ns pes are q y served in a clear o ommé , as one more form of pasta in brodo . Another and slightly richer paste for ravioli and its kindred pastas can be made as follows

4 pint or slightly less warm water pinch salt

S P ift flour and salt together . lace on a board and make a well into which break the eggs . When you have kneaded t hem into the flour, add the softened butter , and gradually sufficient K t lukewarm water to make a dough . nead until smoo h and easy to handle ; cover and allow to stand for ten to fifteen min utes before dividing into two portions and rolling very thin on a lightly floured board, remembering to flour the paste lightly between each of its several rollings .

F I L L I N G S F O R R A V I O L I Spinachﬁlling TO SERVE 6

I l l cupfu each of 4 clove garlic, if cooked pureed liked crushed spinach and 1 heaped tablespoon chopped chicken or ﬁnely chopped veal (cooked) parsley cup breadcrumbs salt and freshly tablespoons grated ground black Parmesan cheese pepper 2 eggs

[ 68 ] Mix dry ingredients and blend together with lightly beaten

Dro p in teaspoonfuls at regular intervals on one sheet of c c an d l pasta , over with se ond sheet press together gent y around Cu t each mound of ﬁlling . into squares with pastry cutter, and n d 5 6 m cook in boili g salte water in deep saucepan for or inutes , or until the envelopes of pasta rise to the top of the boiling T water . ransfer carefully with perforated spoon to a hot dish , serve with Tomato Sauce (see under section for SAU CES) and d P when serving hand a bowl of freshly grate armesan cheese .

C H E E S E F I L L I N G TO SERVE 6

5 . n c ozs each grated pepper, salt, a pi h P e arm san and of nutmeg , and a Gruyere pinch (fairly gener 4 pint milk ous) of thyme 2 eggs

B c s o o nﬁ l ls lend well together, pla e in p on a sheet of pasta as c directed for previous recipe , cover with se ond sheet, press n cu t c dow , with pastry utter and cook in boiling, salted water as previously directed .

When dished up, serve with melted butter and hand addi ti nal P o grated armesan to be added at wi ll .

C R E A M C H E E S E F I L L I N G To SERVE 6

1 lb . cottage 2 tablespoons ﬁnely cheese chopped parsley z c 4 o s . grated freshly grated bla k P armesan pepper, salt and a 1 whole egg and one pinch of nutmeg egg yolk

B an lend well together d use as a ﬁlli ng for ravioli . S erve with melted butter . M E A T F I L L I N G TO SERVE 6

raw 4 lb . each l wineglassful

minced beef and cooking sherry, or raw minced veal preferably Marsala tablespoons Olive oil pepper and salt to P oz . grated armesan taste tablespoonful ﬁnely a clove of crushed chopped parsley garlic if liked 1 egg

v Heat oil in a hea y pan , add garlic (if you are using) , and c i chopped meat, and allow to ook for five or six m nutes , add a rm n u t es the wine , and cook for nother twenty ; cool , and then P an d add the beaten egg, armesan seasonings ; blend well , u se v and as a filling for ra ioli , or for cappelletti (little hats) , 2 - c c which latter are 4 in h rounds of ravioli paste , in the entre f c of which is placed a teaspoon ul of filling, after whi h the paste is folded over and sealed at the edges with a fork .

C H I C K E N F I L L I N G TO SERVE 4

41b. cold boiled 2 tablespoons grated P chicken, chopped armesan ﬁnely 1 egg lb 4 . ﬁnely chopped 4 clove crushed

cold cooked veal garlic, if liked or pork salt and pepper to lb 4 . spinach , cooked taste and a dash of an d pureed nutmeg 4 tablespoons bread crumbs

Mix dry ingredients together, blend with the beaten egg and us e as a ﬁllings for ravioli .

1 70 ] C A P P E L L E T T I I N B R O D O

‘ ’ Little hats in soup

M s c c c ake cappelletti as ju t des ribed , heat lear hicken broth to ‘ ’ boiling point, drop in your little hats , and allow to cook for

ﬁve to seven minutes before servin g .

B A C O N A N D S A U S A G E F I L L I N G TO SERVE 6

6 rashers lean bacon pepper and salt M c o f 4 lb . ortadella a pin h nutmeg 1 egg

P c an d h ass chopped ba on sausage twice t rough mincer, blend ca with beaten egg, add seasonings and use to fill ravioli or p ellet t i T l l l t p . his is an excel ent fi ing for yet one more varie y of pasta in brodo when coo ked for five or six minutes in boiling c lear soup .

Gnocchi

Although Gnocchi is placed at the end o f the various forms o f a re pasta , it is about the e siest form to make at home, for it quires neither roll ing nor ﬁlling and consists merely of little l s c i ro l , croquettes or ircles of pasta, various recipes for wh ch follow .

[ 7 1 ] P O T A T O G N O G G H I To SERVE 4

raw . 2 lbs . potatoes 4 oz butter

4lb . ﬂour salt and pepper to 2 eggs taste

B 0 ai ~ oil potatoes in salted water for 2 minutes , dr n and mash with the butter ; gradually incorporate the flour and beaten R eggs and seasoning . oll between floured hands into rolls the thickness of your finger and cut into pieces an inch long or slightly less . Have ready a pan of boiling salted water, and drop c the gno gently into the pan one by one , boiling for 3 or 4 minutes until they rise to the top the water shou ld boil only f T gently, not uriously . ransfer when cooked in a perforated On spoon to a heated greased fireproof dish , dot with butter and In r place a wa m oven long enough to allow the butter to melt . S ‘ SA erve plain , or with a meat or tomato sauce (see under U

S E M O L I N A G N O C C H I To SERVE 6

1 mil m 4 pints k 4lb . se olina 1 yolks of 2 eggs 4 oz . butter

3 or 4 ozs . grated a pinch of nutm eg Parmesan

w Heat milk, and add semolina slo ly, stirring constantly and R cooking slowly until thick . emove from ﬁre , add beaten yolks m ix of eggs , grated cheese and butter and seasonings and well . Rinse a ﬂat dish with cold water and on it spread the semolina

. L an d to a thickness of half an inch eave for an hour , when i ta cold, cut with a kn fe rinsed under the p, into squares or diam onds 14inches or 2 inches across .

[ 72 ] G N O C C H I A L L A R O M A N A

Having prepared your gnoc in accordance with the foregoin g ru c t r o ins t tions, but er a ﬁ eproof dish and in it lay a layer f i P i gnocch , sprinkling with grated armesan and dotting w th Add P an d buter . a second and a third layer, with armesan dots c of butter between ea h , and to make dish attractive pile your h layers in pyramid form . W en the last of the gnocchi are used P up , sprinkle with more armesan and over the whole pour P c d 14ounces melted butter . la e ish in moderate oven for twenty t he c minutes or until gnoc hi have taken on a golden colour .

Serve in the dish in whi ch they were cooked .

G N O C C H I W I T H T O M A T O S A U C E

As an c alternative to the above dish, make your gnoc hi about t one quarter the size, and serve hot wi h tomato sauce j u st sufﬁcient to surround each dumpling with sauce but not to have ‘ ’ wIm m In d S . the dish g in sauce With these , han a bowl of grated P arm esan cheese .

[ 73 ] ltho u h aasc1u tta g pasta , either past (pasta eaten with some form o f sauce) or pasta in brodo (pasta in soup) appears with fair regu larity in the Italian daily diet all ul over the penins a , there is , in the north , a tendency to vary R this by the use o f rice dishes . ice is cultivated in northern I P taly on a heavy scale, and that grown in the iedmont area, that is to say the stretch of country lying between the Bay of Genoa on the South and the Grain Alps of Switzerland on the N orth , produces a particularly fine , hard grain, equal in P I ff quality to the best that atna in ndia can o er, and ideally f I a suited to the long, slow cooking that is a eature of t lian rice dishes . It P c is as well to remember to ask for iedmont ri e , or failing P c this to specify atna ri e , as the shorter, rounder grained rice , ‘ ’ c c known to my lo al grocer as pudding ri e , though excellent E d for that good old nglish stan by, rice pudding, is apt to pro c If al du e a somewhat sticky risotto . , when shopping at a sm l ‘ I : Do local shop you are asked , as have been asked you want the pudding rice or THE OTHER KIND "’ it’ s fairly safe to fo r THE E I D plump OTH R K N . M If R you have never previously tried to cook a isotto , the I m instructions may come as a slight bombshell, but pro ise you, f hi ifyou will follow them faith ully, the result will surpass anyt ng you might achieve if you were to give in to the temptation to ‘ ’ - o f par boil the rice first all , to mention but one of the many T I em hat incorrect methods . o all such suggestions cannot too p ‘ ’ ’ ically say DON T S n c f u upposi g you are about to produ e a risotto for o r people , start operations a good three - quarters of an hour before the meal is scheduled an d just supposing you happen to be a work ing housewife , let me assure you that , heretical though the suggestion may appear to be , an excellent risotto can be pre ’ in pared the morning before you leave for the day s work, and t e- heated so as to produce a really good dish for dinn er the same evening moreover, the flavour is apt to be all the richer if the various ingredients have had all day in whi ch to insinuate The their many and varied flavours into the finished dish . one ingredient I prefer not to allow to remain all day in the risotto is

P L A I N R I S O T T O TO SERVE 4

12 to 15 tablespoons 2 medium sized o u Piedmont or Patna ions chopped small c 1 ri e , the quantity 4 pints or there c depending on the abouts of sto k , appetites of the chicken for prefer c an d consumers en e , if you 2 tablespoons best want a touch of

olive oil , or a luxury , substitute m ixture of oil and a wineglassful of fo r butter or , if you white wine an want it in the equal quantity of truly Milanese stock f s ﬂr n 2 . o a o r style , ozs for colou ing butter

Heat the oil or butter in a heavy pan , add the onion , chopped l c NOT small , and a low to ook until it is a golden yellow but

Add DRY c fo r few ~ brown . the rice , and ook slowly together a min utes , stirring with a wooden spoon , until the grains are almost No w transparent . begin adding your stock and now is a goo d moment to insert an asbestos mat between the pan and the a The direct he t of the stove . stock is added in very small quanti R ties a few tablespoonfuls at a time , and the isotto is stirred frequently to prevent sticking . When the first instalment of the an d c fi n stock is absorbed , add the next so on until the ri e has ish i ed . cook ng , and most if not all of the stock has been used - fi v mi T This should take from twenty e to thirty nutes . est the a rice for tenderness tow rds the end of this time , and when it is tender and the dish looks creamy but is not sticky , the risotto is The ready for the table . grains , though tender, should still be separate . To give your risotto a truly Milanese appearance it should be coloured a primrose yellow (rather than a buttercup yellow) If with saffron at the end of the cooking time . you are using the filaments the dried stamens of the autumn crocus take two or three of these , and having pounded them to a powder and allowed them to steep five m inutes or so in a little warmed l

[ 76 ] c . v sto k, strain and add them to the rice You may, howe er, have purchased a thimbleful of already powdered saffron from an c c add c Italian provision shop, in whi h ase it, small pin h by c d c a c small pin h , until the esired olour is obt ined , but be areful

d c as l . not to over o the pin hes , a ittle goes a long way Thi hi s dish , omitting the w te wine , is excellent with nothing added but a generous lump of butter an d a few tablespoons of P d s grated armesan, stirred in , allowe to melt and erved imme l diat e . y, before it has a chance to go stringy With it hand more P grated armesan to be added at will , and more butter, and you l M have a truly classic Risotto al a ilanese .

P L A I N R I S O T T O

A s o m ewha t r i ch e r v e r s i o n

P c as hi if ro eed before, but with the addition of w te wine , and r you can procu e about an ounce of marrow from marrow bones , you will have a really rich dish . hi M You may also substitute for the w te Wine a glass of arsala , l d as i as . I but in th s c e wou d a vise against the marrow, that and the Marsal a combined would make the dish over- rich for most palates . No w for the variations of this simple and typically Italian dish

M U S H R O O M ; R 1 S O T T O TO SERVE 2 l rasher streaky 6 medium Sized bacon tomato es z o s . butter 2{ pint stock z d medium si e pepper, salt, nutmeg n 4 6 d o ions to ozs . col , lean

o z s . rice meat 1 l lb . mushrooms tablespoo nfu sul

[ 7 7 ] Cu t a fr the bacon sm ll and y lightly in the butter, remove from c fo r pan , and add to the pan the hopped onions , frying them Add two or three minutes . the rice and cook gently until it is transparent about 5 minutes add all the mushrooms except about two tablespoons of chopped mushrooms which will be useful for garnishing ; add sliced and peeled tomato es c c Add c and repla e ba on in pan . the sto k in small instalments , giving the risotto a stir from time to time to prevent the rice c Ten sti king to the bottom of the pan . minutes before serving, add l u the cold meat chopped smal , and the s ltanas, together with the remainder of the mushrooms whi ch have been cut e The in small pieces and saut ed in a little butter . rice should be cooked in about half an hour from the time it was added to the dish .

S P . erve , together with grated armesan to be added if liked

M Y O W N F A V O U R I T E R I S O T T O TO SERVE 4 12 tablespoons l cupful of cooked Piedmont rice (or froz en) green 4 ozs . butter peas 2 medium sized o u a few cooked a F c ns If ions chopped sm ll ren h bea , 14 pints stock available 1 4 lb . mushrooms or 2 tomatoes , chopped ﬁne peeled and o u t

4 lb . lean ham or small

gammon, cut into pepper and salt small pieces a pinch of thym e a pinch of nutmeg

P c - ro eed as for plain risotto, but half way through the cooking e time add the mushrooms , which have been saut ed in butter, n the ham , peas , beans and tomatoes , and the seaso ings . f h P When serving, hand a bowl of res ly grated armesan , to be

added at will .

[ 78 ] R I S O T T O W I T H B R A I N S TO SERVE 4

‘ saﬂ ro n 4 lb . lean veal to colour ’ 1 f ai a little beef marrow, cal s br n if available 1 medium siz ed 12 tablespoons onion Piedmont rice 1 tablespoonfu l z 4 o s . butter parsley 14 pints stock pepper and sal t to 4 tablespoons grated taste Parmesan

s Wash the brain in salt and water, remove the skin and ﬁbres an d ll u se and let them remain in salt water ti ready to . c ni an d Heat butter in a heavy pan, add hopped o on allow n is to cook a few minutes u til the onion golden yellow, add the c a if an d hopped p rsley, chopped veal and marrow available , allow to brown for 8 to 10 minutes ; add the rice and the sto ck i D ai cu t little by l ttle . rain the br ns and into small pieces , and when the dish has been cooking for quarter of an hour or twenty minutes add these to the risotto and continue cooking until the rv rice is tender . Just before se ing, add the seasonings and the r P g ated armesan .

R I S O T T O W I T H S H E L L F I S H TO SERVE 4

M ns o f ake a perfectly plain risotto , but i tead stock made from hi c c meat or c ken, use ﬁsh sto k if available , or failing this , plain

- water plus a wine glassful of whi te wine . M hi c D Ba eanw le , allowing five or six s ampi or ublin y prawns , or the equivalent quantity of lobster or peeled shrimps ll cu t fish per person, sautée the she ed and up in a little butter to c c T s whi h a little crushed garli has been added . oward the end fish of the cooking of the risotto add the , together with the butter F na in which it has been cooked . i lly stir in butter and grated

[ 79 ] C H I C K E N R I S O T T O TO SERVE 4

If - c you have some left over boiled chi ken , remove any skin , and cut the meat into small pieces . You should have at least c In : two breakfast upfuls . addition you will need

1 medium sized 2 peeled tomatoes onion 1 small carrot 1 c c love garli , l stalk celery crushed 2 tablespoons or ms 4 lb . mushroo thereabouts of 4 pint chicken stock ; chopped lean am m o m and later, when ham or g 1 rice added, pint l wineglassful white more wine 1 oz . butter pepper and salt 1 chopped parsley 2 ozs . rice

c Heat the butter and in it sautée the hopped onion , garlic , celery and chopped carrot ; after ﬁve minutes add the chopped mushrooms , and the tomatoes cut small ; allow to cook together in for a couple of minutes , then stir the chopped chicken and the wine and increase the heat so that the dish cooks fast for a couple c of minutes more ; add the seasonings ; stir in the sto k, cover the pan and allow to cook slowly fo r half an hour or so before adding the rice 12 ozs . and proceeding as for an a ordin ry risotto , using chicken stock or water for further mois ' t en in du rin k gj g the coo ing of the rice . Finally stir in grated Parmesan and a generous portion of butter .

R I S O T T O G E N O V E S E Rice in the Genoese style TO SERVE 4

- Fo r 1 . this dish the rice is first of all par boiled . Cook 2 ozs as of rice in boiling, salted water in a large pan previously d few irected, but remove and drain a minutes before it is c c ompletely cooked , and when drained , turn it into a lean f l s saucepan , and to it add the o lowing sauce, plus a generou c n i lump of butter, ooki g together and stirr ng to avoid sticking , c k for five m inutes or until the ri e has finished coo ing . ful l When serving, hand with the dish a bowl of fresh y grated P armesan cheese .

SAU CE

2 3 4 lb . raw lean meat, or carrots , washed beef or veal for and di ced 1 ni preference medium o on , 2 or 3 stalks of cele chopped r c y , washed and hopped parsley o u t ﬁne a pinch o f oregano or pepper and salt to thyme taste 4 pint of whi te butter for sauteeing wine the vegetables and meat

In l Heat the butter , and it sautée the vegetables unti they are add l a golden colour , the meat and a low to brown , stirring so Add i as to prevent sticking . the Wine, and cook fa rly rapidly l dimi unti the liquid has nished by half, then cover and simmer i t he u for an hour, by which t me sauce sho ld have the consistency of syru p .

R I C E A N D P E A S A S S E R V E D I N V E N I C E ‘ ’ Risi e bisi To SERVE 6

1 3 lbs . peas weighed tablespoon butter before shelling 1 tablespoon lard 1 c 2 o ns lb . ri e tablespo ﬁnely 24 to 3 pints hot chopped parsley meat stock 2 Spring onions 1 tablespoo n olive o il

il S a . o hell and wash pe s Heat , butter and lard in heavy pan, n dd add ﬁnely choppe d onio s and parsley and cook gently . A l T peas and a low to cook long enough to absorb fat . hen add j u st enough hot meat stock to cover and allow to bubble before

adding rice , having done which , add a further 4 pint heated stock and cook gently without stirring for 25 or 30 m inutes At f until rice is cooked . end ofcooking stir in a urther tablespo on o f 2 u l P m ful butter and tablespoonf s of grated ar esan, and when P serving, hand a dish of grated armesan so that more may be T added if wished . his dish should not be allowed to becom e too k d ry in the coo ing .

R I C E W I T H T U R N I P S Riso e rape TO SERVE 6

z 12 o s . peeled 24to 3 pints meat tu rnips stock

1 lb . rice salt and pepper to 4 cupfu l tomato taste ‘ ’ sauce (See SAUCES )

Cu t the turnips in slices , spread on a plate , sprinkle with salt,

cover with another plate and allow to stand for two hours , so as o ﬂ At o f to draw the surplus water from the vegetable . the end i m v th s ti e , drain the turnips , and place in a hea y pan in which l you have heated the butter ; allow to brown a litt e , stirring with a wooden spoon so that they do not stick to the bottom of the pan ; stir in the tomato sauce and allow to cook for four or ﬁve minutes , then cover with heated stock, bring to the boil an d C add the rice . ook gently for quarter of an hour or twenty

i . minutes , add ng more stock if the dish begins to appear dry Do not overcook, or the ﬂavour is diminished .

[ 82 ]

f will rise to the top during the cooking and is easily skimmed o f . if However, you are going to feel better about washed rice, by all means wash it . w al When the ater is boiling rapidly and s t has been added, ' add the rice and al low it to boil fast from fifteen to twenty a t minutes , depending on the qu li y of the rice and on personal T taste . owards the end of fifteen minutes test a few grains by biting, and when they are soft, and before they have had a chance ‘ ’ f to become mushy , remove the saucepan rom the stove, and Ru n strain the rice through a fairly fine colander . cold water a as through the colander, sh king the rice you do so to remove an d c any starch still adhering, then pla e the rice in a lidless , heated fireproof dish in a warm NOT HOT oven with o f fo r m dr A the oven d or le t open, a few inutes to y. lternatively, the drying can be achieved by placing the dish over a saucepan o f f a ‘ m in u boiling water on top o the stove for t e or two .

B O I L E D R I C E W I T H BU T T E R A N D C H E E S E Riso in cagnoni

A llow a quarter of a pound of rice per person . Cook the rice as P B R directed for lain oiled ice , and when it has finished cooking an d has been strained, place in a heated casserole, and add P m m x generous portions of butter and grated ar esan, i ing well before serving . As if a variation, you may, you wish, heat the butter first until it has become a golden liquid , and you may also , is w h , flavour it with a little finely chopped garlic .

A simple dish by no m eans to be despised .

[ 84 1 A R I C H E R W A Y O F S E R V I N G B O I L E D R I C E Riso tto in cagnoni di magro TO SERVE 4

1 as Co ok lb . of rice in the approved f hion and when it has been cooked and drained , stir into it the following sauce

1 onion chopped 1 tablespoonfu l ﬁn e chopped parsley 6 anchovies 4 cupfu l tomato 4 tablespoonfuls oil sauce

C o il ook onion till yellow in the heated , stir in the parsley, and c the anchovies , boned and cut into small pie es ; cook together fo r mi ﬁve nutes , stir in tomato sauce , bring to boil and with the rice .

C H E E S E R I C E B A L L S TO SERVE 4

2 cupfuls left-over 2 or three slices of

plain boiled rice lean ham , cut into strips M 4 ozs . ozzarella oil for frying or Bel Paese cheese 1 fu rther egg breadcrum bs

Mix f c . together the ri e and beaten eggs , and orm into balls F latten each ball on the palm ofyour hand , and on the ﬂattened u ham c C s rface lay a strip of and a strip of heese . lose the ball i C a c . together ag n, so that the rice onceals the contents ontinue il t l all the rice is used . Finally dip the balls ( ‘ Suppli ’ if you want the Italian name) in egg breadcrumbs , and fry them in hot olive oil until they are D a golden brown . rain before serving .

[ 85 ] A R A N G I N I TO SERVE 4 Often when a train has stopped at a small station in Italy or S ‘ T C ’ icily, the attendant wheeling the avola alda , the trolley c i a ontain ng hot food to be consumed on the tr in , makes his ‘ way down the platform to the accompaniment of the cry Aran ’ - e- e-e - e - e-u i wh g , and the hardy traveller o takes a chance s I l - on thi typically ta ian tit bit is handed a piece of brown paper, ni contai ng a warm mound of rice , the colour of a pale orange , wa o f n i the best y eati g wh ch is out of the paper, using the paper as later a napkin to wipe mouth and hands. ‘ ’ To 8 make of these delicacies , you will need the following in gredients : 1 'l lb . rice g b . lean m inced 4 tablespoons grated beef Parm esan 2 tablespoons l beaten egg chopped parsley 1 tablespoon olive 2 hard boiled eggs

oil (a reﬁnement, this black pepper addition) a pin ch of salt breadcrumbs and oil for deep frying

C in n f ook the rice boili g , salted water, drain and mix with hal the beaten egg . Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan , brown the m In ced m m ix eat in this , remove from the heat and with grated

c . cheese , parsley and if used hopped hard boiled eggs R inse the hands in cold water, take a handful of cooked rice , and in the centre of this place a generous portion o f the fore m an d going ixture , closing the rice up to encase the mixture R form a ball . epeat this until all the rice and all the filling is Di c used up . p the balls in the balan e of the beaten egg, coat fr d i with fine breadcrumbs and y in eep , hot oil unt l they have a - t ken on a light golden brown colour . A few left- over cooked Spring peas are a welcome addition to r the other ing edients . The above recipe makes a delicious dish for home co nsu m p tion , that is good eaten with hot tomato sauce , using any of the ‘ ’ c SA ES The re ipes under the heading U C . railway station variety is rather less luxurious , and the hard boiled eggs are s c t u ually onspicuous by their absence , but nevertheless , it is tas y and filling on a long journey when there is no restauran t car on ai the tr n . S A R T O

Rice does not appear on the Neapolitan menu nearly as fre c quently as do the various types of pasta , but there is one ri e dish t N hat is a specialty of aples , and that, in spite of the length m i l o f ti e requ red for its preparation , is we l worth trying, parti cu l arly at a time when you have available some turkey or c Bo Da hicken giblets why not serve such a dish on xing y, as a change from the cold left - overs from the Christmas t u rkey " The is mi l t of ingredients , though for dable , is not necessarily Fo r six eo l o u l : difﬁcult to cope with . p p e y will need the fo lowing

1 . 2 ozs . o f rice 4 lb fresh cu t 4lb . lean beef mushrooms in passed through small pieces or f the mi ncer 4 o z . O dried 1 1 egg plus egg mushrooms , yolk reconstituted by 1 c clove garli , soaking them in crushed warm water fo r pepper and salt a few minutes chopped parsley turkey or chicken 2 - s one inch Slice giblets , a small c of bread with the hopped onion, cru sts removed a little chopped ﬂour carrot I a oil or lard for 4lb . t lian sausage frying meat sauce with about a cupfu l of tomatoes (see ‘ ’ cooked green peas SAUCES l Bel P s 4 b. aese cheese about 5 tablespoon grated Parmesan crisp breadcrumbs

F irst of all , combine your minced lean beef, the bread soaked in a little milk and squeez ed dry the garlic and chopped w parsley with the beaten egg and egg yolk , together ith the

. F l fr seasonings orm into sma l balls or rissoles , and y in hot t M hi oil un il they are brown on both sides . eanw le , boil your c hi d ri e in the approved fas on , in boiling, salted water and rain

ll . C the c i we ook the giblets with ex ept on of the liver, in a little c d two water, with the hoppe carrot and onion, for at least din T n . e hours , ad g a bay leaf if the flavour is liked or fifteen i th e d minutes before the end of th s time , add the liver and slice n o w mushrooms . You are ready to start composing your B so u fflé sartu. utter a fireproof dish that is large enough to hold d the combined ingre ients , and after buttering it , sprinkle crisp n d A a breadcrumbs over the bottom a sides . rr nge about three quarters of the boiled rice in a layer covering the bottom and s e c c the sides of the ouffl dish , and in this asing pla e the meat t balls , the giblets cut in o pieces , the mushrooms , peas and the O sausages cut in pieces . ver this pour the gravy from the giblets f c c Cu t and su fi ient meat and tomato sau e to moisten . the cheese c r c in small pie es and a range on top , and finally over with the balance of the boiled rice , and pour over a little more of the meat and tomato sauce , so that the dish is moist but not ‘ ’ S f mushy . prinkle with a airly heavy layer of crisp bread , P B crumbs and the grated armesan cheese . ake in a moderate The oven for half an hour . ingredients suggested are , so to speak, the bare minimum , you may add to the glory and mystery of your sartu by varying the ingredients with a little chopped ham or breast of turkey or chicken cut small , and if you wish to be particularly luxurious , hard boil a couple of eggs, cut them in four lengthways and arrange them on the top o f the dish before adding the final layer of rice .

F R I E D R I C E To SERVE 4

l cupful left -over l chopped onion boiled rice salt and pepper to 4 eggs scrambled taste 4 rashers streaky bacon

Cu t c - bacon into in h long pieces , and fry ; chop onion , add to bacon and fry until it is golden ; stir in the rice and fry till light as c m ix at l t minute stir in the s rambled eggs , and well .

[ 88 ] R I C E S O U F F L E W I T H C H I C K E N L I V E R S TO SERVE 6

1h c 2 4 . ri e pints chicken

4 lb . butter stock hi c l 4 lb . c ken ivers a wineglassful of 4 eggs Marsala 2 tablespoonsful grated Parmesan

C c an d ook the rice for twenty minutes in the chi ken stock, at hi the end of that time stir in the cheese , butter and the c cken hi cu t livers w ch have been in strips , floured lightly and fried an d M Al i in a little butter the arsala . low the m xture to cool , i n l an d m ix and then stir the beaten yo ks of the eggs well . ' hi st ifl m B . G eat the egg w tes , and fold into the ixture rease so u fflé di mi a sh that is large enough to hold the whole xture , so u fflé line it with buttered paper, and pour in your mixture , r and cook in a moderate oven for about qua ter of an hour .

R I C E ‘ S O U F F L E W I T H S H R I M P S TO SERVE 6

P t u roceed as for the foregoing recipe , but substi ting for the hi r hi ﬁsh c cken broth either wate in w ch has been boiled, or ai hi failingthat, pl n water ; and for the c cken livers , half a pound shrini s of shelled p or prawns .

[ 89 ] Po lenta

n e more of the farinaceous foods beloved by Italians is the yellowmaize flour , known as polenta , which can be In I It obtained talian provision shops in this country . can be bought either finely or coarsely ground , depending on the taste of the consumer . It o f I appears frequently on the tables of the north taly, al frequently being used in lieu of bread , and though the plain ni boiled polenta is stodgy and u nteresting, ifit is allowed to cool , al it can be cut into slices , or formed into sm l dumplings , o f f something after the style gnocchi , and can orm the basis of a good many agreeable dishes . To c r o ff ook sufficient polenta for fou people , start with six B to eight ounces of the finely ground variety . ring a pint of ai water to the boil in a f rly large saucepan , and to this add the l polenta and cook s owly for about twenty minutes , stirring all

At an d . the time . the end of this time it should be thick smooth Spread it on a large plate that has been rinsed with cold water, allow to cool , and then either cut it into slices , or with ﬂoured hands form it into little dumplings the size of a small egg . The following are one or two ways in which the cooked product may be used .

[ 90 1

B the eat the egg and when polenta is cold , cut into slices , dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in hot olive oil until S T S See brown . erve hot with omato auce ( If ’ you don t object to the slight stodginess , you may eat your c c fi polenta as it omes out of the sau epan, hot, without rst waiting for it to cool , with any of the meat or tomato sauces ‘ SA CES ’ under the heading of U , or just with butter and cheese , E s c but for the average ngli h palate, the ooled and fried or baked variety is preferable . There is a delicious sau sage dish made with polenta that ‘ ’ rather puts the Sau sage Toad of English war- time memories th Fo r in e shade . it you need half a pound of polenta cooked as directed in boiling, salted water ; unsweetened tomato sauce See I u ( and a pound of talian sa sages, or failing c these , hipolata . Cu t 1 the sausages into inch lengths , and fry until they are T S c brown, then pour over them the omato au e and mix well together . c When the polenta is ooked , spread one halfofit in a buttered o f fireproof dish , and over this pour one half the sauce ; add S a second layer of polenta and the balance of the sauce . prinkle with grated Parmesan and place in a hot oven for a few mo S ments so that the cheese melts and browns a trifle . erve very hot .

T M ST hese small, hard yellow dried peas Simply U be soaked k k overnight, and after soa ing they need long, slow coo ing in salted water to which the addition of a half teaspoon of bicar bonate of soda to each quart of water helps in the tenderising C hi process . ooked in t s way until tender, and cooled, they make a good addition to salad, seasoned with oil and vinegar or lemon juice .

[ 92 ] C E C I A L L A M A R I N A R A ’ Chick eas sailors st le p , y To SERVE 4

1 . chi c 2 3 a lb k peas , or t blespoons prepared as oil suggested in the 4 anchovies foregoing para 1 tablespoon graph chopped parsley pepper

o a Having c oked the soaked peas till tender, llow them to M keep hot in the water in whi ch they have been cooked . ean o il t he while, heat the , and to it add anchovies cut small , the ‘ ’ ix ll D m we . parsley and pepper to taste ; rain the ceci , and over

o . them p ur the prepared sauce , well before serving

[ 93 ] Egg 8 Cheese Dishes

i If flu fl c you are a lover of the light, y omelette produ ed by the d o f E i F o u eft hands the ngl sh or rench omelette maker, y had I fo r is v ff better not order an omelette in taly, it a hea ier a air, its l it will be cooked in oil, and fi ling, if it is a filled omelette ,

- . If o u e will be over generous , however, y like your omelett s

a f . solid and substanti l, you will be on sa e ground I fo r Here is a typical talian recipe an omelette, which can be ‘ ’ ‘ ’ made asciutta or morbida , that is to say, dry, or not so dry, o f two s and the , the latter more nearly re embles the omelette F E o f rance or ngland .

[ 94 ] F R I T T A T A S E M P L I C E

TO SERVE 3

B Six d reak eggs into a basin , and beat them until well mixe M but not frothy, adding a pinch of salt . eanwhile in a heavy n frying pan, preferably one kept only for the maki g ofomelettes,

heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil and cook over moderate heat, ' lifting the edges from time to tim e with a spatula so that th e uncooked portion can reach the bottom of the pan and become d T C . cooked . ontinue until there is no liqui remaining hen, if s you are an expert pancake tosser, and only then , to s the ome If d r lette so as to reverse it . you are not so skille , tu n it with s c T a metal li e and allow the other side to cook . urn on to d n d a heated ish a serve very hot . So FRITTATA AS CI TTA much for the U , the dry ome I FRITT ATA MOR lette . f you prefer the more digestible BIDA he if n , cook the omelette on t one side, l ti g the edges so that the liquid portion may reach the bo ttom of the pan and c u l be ome cooked ; form it with the spat a into an oval shape , i e d and without turn ng, slip it on to a h ated oval ish and serve imm ediately .

O M E L E T T E W I T H H E R B S ,

and o Using the same basic recipe pr cedure , try your omelette c with the addition of a little hopped parsley, a little chopped i bas l or thyme , or a combination of several chopped herbs , d and as an experiment, try the ad ition of a very little chopped

rosemary .

F R I T T A T A A L T A R T U F I

A n c gai starting with the basic omelette re ipe , before turning i k it into the fry ng pan, add a ﬁnely chopped blac or white

tru fﬂe .

[ 95 1 F R I T T A T A A L F U N G H I

Omelette with mushrooms

While you are preparing the eggs , sauté a quarter of a pound of mushrooms cut in small pieces in a little butter and add to th e ni omelette as it is begin ng to cook, with a spatula fold the cooked portion over the mushrooms so that by the time the dish is completely cooked the ﬁlling is enveloped in the egg m r ixture , slide on to a heated oval platter and serve ve y hot .

F R I T T A T A A L L A S A L S A D I P O M I D O R O

Omelette with tomato sauce

B f two s o m u See e ore cooking, add table poons of t ato sa ce ( ‘ SA CE ’ U S ) to the egg mixtu re .

' F R I T T A TfA A L F O R M A G G I O

Cheese Omelette

To the basic egg mixtu re add an ounce of grated Parmesan cheese before starting the cooking process .

F R I T T A T A A L L E G U M I Vegetable Omelette

I f you have a cupful o f cooked young green peas , or a similar m amount of cooked asparagus tips, add these to the o elette as it is beginni ng to cook and proceed as suggested fo r FRIT TATA L F NG I A U H .

[ 95 ] F R I T T A T A A L P R O S C I U T T O

Ham Omelette

l Cu t two or three thin slices of ham into sma l pieces , and add to the eggs before starting to cook ; proceed as suggested for I E If k I FRITTATA SEMPL C . li ed , a little talian salami may d be substitute for the ham .

F R I T T A T A A L L A C I P O L L E

Onion Omelette

Chop a medium Sized onion into small pieces and brown in a little butter ; when cooked add to the basic egg mixture before starting to cook the omelette .

F R I T T A T A F A R C I T A ' Stuﬁ ed omelette

Heat a little butter in a separate frying pan and in it combine

. m o ms 4 lb ushro cut in small pieces , a tablespoon ﬁnely a chopped fresh parsley, salt and pepper to taste and a t blespoon A c m M of cream . llow to ook together for ﬁve inutes . eanwhile FRITTATA SEMPLICE make an omelette as suggested for , is c and when the underside lightly cooked, pour on the sau e , m and continue cooking, wrapping the egg ixture gradually

S . around the ﬁlling . erve very hot

F R I T T A T A A L C A R C I O F I

Artichoke omelette

Fo f this the small globe artichokes which can be purchased The preserved are used . fresh vegetables are , of course , prefer a i c T able , but are not always e sy to obtain in th s ountry . ake fr half a dozen of the artichokes , drain well, cut in pieces and y FRI lightly in a little butter, meanwhile preparing your TTATA SEMPLICE , and adding the artichokes as suggested for the FRITTATA FARCITA sauce in , just as the underside of

the omelette is cooked, and wrapping the egg gradually around the artichokes so that by the time the omelette ﬁnishes cooking ar e they encased in it . ‘ ’ No w for a couple of really solid omelettes .

F R I T T A T A D I P A T A T E

Po tato omelette To SERVE 4

Bo o e il f ur medium sized potato s in salted water, and when i Mix cooked, dra n and mash well , or pass through a ricer . l with the ightly beaten yolks of four eggs , and a tablespoonful a al of chopped parsley, and, if liked , a pinch of cinn mon ; fin ly f stir in the sti fly beaten whites of the eggs , and fry, first on one h S side and t en on the other, in hot butter . erve hot .

F R I T T A T A C O L R I S O

Rice omelette To SERVE 4

Heat the milk and rice in a double boiler a n d allow to cook gently until the rice is tender and the m ilk absorbed (about 1 S hour or a little longer) . tir in the butter, grated cheese , has c cinnamon and salt, and when it ooled somewhat, add the Mix eggs, beaten lightly . well, and fry in hot butter , ﬁrst on one side and then on the other, or ifpreferred , bake in a buttered l soufﬂe dish in a moderate oven ti l browned . S olid, but satisfying, this one .

F R I E D C H E E S E

Fo r each person allow two slices o f Bel Paese about the size f c o u t F di of hal a sli e of bread and very thin . lour lightly, and p ﬁrst in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs and fry golden brown , ﬁrst on one side then on the other in hot butter, drain n SERVE ing them after cooki g so as to remove surplus fat . VER H T Y O .

[ 100 ] ave you ever stopped to consider the lack o f imagination n t he I n Show by average and mea the average, not the exceptional English housewife Where the cooking c " tl and serving of fish are oncerned Yet look at our coas ine , ’ look at the variety of fi sh obtainable at most fi shm o n gers ’ ’ r shops , and you ll probably ag ee that there s no real reason fo r o u r slavish adherence to .

Boiled cod .

So us ed Herrings deliciou s though they undoubtedl y ar e

’ Fish a chips .

few m s With crab or lobster, or a shri p or prawns for

a special tr eat .

’ l s t F F Da There s real y no rea on on ear h why riday, ish y, should not produce the tastiest and most excitin g meals o f the T d I week . ake a look and see what our frien s , the talians , do fish To fish as about . be sure , such octopus and squid are not ’ u s n easily come by over here , and many of wouldn t fa cy n if c eati g them they were , and for s ampi we may have to make do D Ba Of fis h with ublin y prawns, but remembering the galaxy n o w is can nl at our d posal , we e arge our repertoire of dishes The few ff very considerably . following recipes are o ered in the hope that they will encourage experiments .

[ 10 1 ] F I S H F R I E D I N T H E S I C I L I A N W A Y

Fry this now and again as an alternative to our own more r conse vative methods of cooking . F fish c n irst prepare your by lea ing, washing and wiping dr an d y, finally dipping in flour . Then in a heavy pan heat a good layer of good quality olive o il ; when it is really hot, sprinkle generously with salt and when u c t it is smoking put in your prepared fish, brown q i kly on bo h 13 c sides, cover the pan , and lower the heat until the fish ooked

S . through . erve very hot

F I S H A U G R A T I N Pesce gratinato TO SERVE 6

o zs. c ri e 4 lb . butter

lb . floury potatoes 4 lb . previously o tablesp onsful boiled fish , from flour which skin and pint milk bones have been tablespoons removed grated Parmesan breadcru mbs

‘ ’ Cook the rice as directed for BOILED RICE ; when cooked c and drained , replace in sau epan , and mix with beaten egg 6 z o s. yolk and of butter, and allow to keep warm until the butter M is absorbed . eanwhile cook and mash the potatoes with a little butter . ' i Pre are B c 2 . 2 p a é hamel sauce of ozs butter , tablespoons

ﬂour and a quarter of a pint or slightly more of hot milk .

Flake the fish finely . s Having made these preparation , butter a fireproof dish ‘ ’ c and in it place the rice , forming a flat bed on whi h to place F the flaked fish . orm a border with the mashed potato ; pour B P the échamel over the fish , and add a layer of armesan , C grated and mixed with crisp breadcrumbs . ook in a hot oven until the Parmesan has melted and the Béchamel has taken on a golden colour .

M w c ean hile , in a stewpan heat a ouple of tablespoonsful of olive oil and in it brown a chopped onion, a crushed clove of garlic and a little chopped parsley ; add rather more than l half a pound of fresh tomatoes , peeled and cut in sma l pieces , pepper and salt ; when the tomatoes are cooked , add the juice n of half a lemon , boil for a few minutes longer a d then pass R through a sieve or a food mill . eturn the strained sauce to fi sh the stewpan , and in it cook your for half an hour or un til S tender ; finally add a further tablespoonful of oil . erve the fish on a heated dish with the sauce poured over and with it serve fingers o f toast with which to soak up the sauce you d d have been warned , this ish is rich , and somewhat in igestible .

A R A G O ST A L E S S A T A

B oiled lo bster

’ him You ll probably prefer to buy ready boiled, but if you w ’ can bear to cope ith the live beast, he s much better boiled P In at home . lace your lobster a deep saucepan of boiling water, hi m fo r so that he is completely covered , and boil three quarters f f of an hour if he is a large ellow, hal an hour for his smaller o f brother, and at the end that time , if you are going to eat him hot , remove him from the water, rub the shell with a little olive oil to brighten the colour, and split him in two lengthways , and serve with olive oil, lemon and salt and pepper .

C O L D L O B S T E R

A c c O llow your lobster to ool before utting pen lengthways , then crack the claws so that the meat may be extracted easily, and serve with a green salad dressed with oil and lemon juice .

[ 104 ] F R I E D L O B S T E R

Having prepared your lobster, remove the meat from the body an d c di the laws , p them ﬁrst in oil and then in ﬂour seasoned

o r n . with pepper and salt, in a fryi g batter and fry in hot oil

Serve with sections of lemon .

C R A W F I S H

‘ ’ T n su bsti hese , k own in some districts as lobster tails , may be

t u t ed for lobster in any of the foregoing recipes .

S O F T S H E L L C R A B S

These are tiny crabs caught at a time when they are changing d Ma their shells , and they are considered a elicacy in early y Mi us c in Venice . n their shells the crabs rise to the surfa e of the Th ' water and are caught in gr eat quantities . e method is to ﬂour them and fry them while still alive in boiling oil deli cio u s if you like them and can forget the Wholesale murder v t that has taken place to pro ide you with your dain y dish .

C A L A M A R E T T I

A di A c gain a sh met with along the driati coast, where baby inkﬁ sh the o f size large house spiders are fried whole in butter , often accompanied by scampi truly worth tryin g an d rather less o ff-puttin g than the soft shell crabs if you are of a squeam

ish nature . If s few I a you are a lover of eel , here are a typically t lian

ways of preparing them .

[ 105 ] A N G U I L L A A L L A F E R R A R E S E

Eels as served in Ferrara TO SERVE 4

1 4 lbs . eels , salt and pepper cleaned and cut a pinch o f mixed in slices an inch spice thick a pinch of thyme ' l wineglassful 1 egg lightly white wine beaten 1 bay leaf breadcrumbs

c Having prepared the eels, place in a asserole and over them w pour the ine mixed with the spices and herbs , add the bay

leaf. Cover and cook in a moderate oven for three quarters hOu r At of an . the end of that time , lift the eels from the sauce ,

drain , dip in oiled butter, then in beaten egg and breadcrumbs n bo ﬂavoured if liked with a little nutmeg, and fry brow on th

sides in hot butter .

R O A S T E E L S

L arge eels may be cut in thickish slices and cooked on a spit, with a bay leaf or two and a sprig of rosemary interspersed for f and s rin ﬂavour, and basted rom time to time with olive oil p S E c kled with salt . ince we in ngland cannot often ook in this

fashion , the next best thing is to lay the slices in a ﬂat dish , an d pour over them a wineglassful of olive oil seasoned with salt and pepper an d the juice of half a lemon ; allow them to

remain in this marinade for at least an hour, turning them so from time to time that it may penetrate the ﬁsh , then place d in an oiled ﬁreproof ish , and bake in a hot oven till tender, t he basting from time to time with marinade .

[ 106 ]

M E R L U Z Z O A L L A F I O R E N T I N A

od oo i C , as c ked n Florence TO SERVE 4

6 steaks of cod a little chopped salt and pepper fennel a wineglassful of oil white wine ﬂour

Oil a flat fireproof dish and in it place the lightly flou red steaks of cod and over them pour a tablespoonful of olive oil , n the fe nel , pepper and salt and white wine and bake in a mod fo r crate oven half an hour, basting at intervals with the sauce .

M E R L U Z Z O I N S A L S A

Cod with tomatoes TO SERVE 4

6 d 6 steaks of co tomatoes , skinned " 1 tablespoon olive and cut in pieces oil 1 small onion chopped

Heat the onion in a stewpan and in it brown the onion ; add the tomato cut small and cook together for five minutes , add fis h c 30 . the , over the pan and cook over moderate heat minutes We in England are apt to turn up our noses at the grey ’ fi shm o n er s slabs of salt cod we see hanging in a g shop , but the Italian cook can teach us several good ways of serving this ill - fis h favoured . First of all it mus t be remembered that in order to render cc 24 it a eptable at all it should be soaked for at least hours ,

‘ i can and if th s be done in running water, so much the better ; c k failing that , hange the water several times during the soa ing At i h . ﬁs process the end of the time , sk n the , and remove the In I bones before starting any cooking experiments with it . taly

d al sto ccaﬁ sso . it goes un er two names , bacc a and

[ 108 ] S T O C C A F I S S O I N S A L S A

Salt cod in sauce TO SERVE 4

an d 2 lbs . of salt cod , salt pepper soaked for at 1 medium oni on 24 least hours , chopped small skinned and 1 stalk of celery boned chopped tablespoons olive 2 tablespoons medium sized tomato sauce beetroot

Heat the oil in a stewpan and in it brown the onion for a few an d minutes , then add the beetroot, washed cut in cubes , C co d cu t the elery, the , in small pieces, the salt and pepper and cook very slowly for at least two hours ; when the beetroot is tender, add the tomato sauce and from time to time add d a little water if the dish shows Signs of rying .

A v a r i a t i o n

fo r t Using the preceding recipe , substitute the toma o sauce n f l f a wi eglass u o white wine .

[ 109 ] S T O C C A F I S S O A L L A L I G U R E Salt cod as cooked in Liguria TO SERVE 4

2 . 4 lbs salt cod , soaked in water for at least 2

skinned, boned and cut in small pieces

1 n 1 c o ion cut in love garlic, small pieces crushed 1 small carrot cut 1 stick celery cut in cubes small 1 tablespoon 2 anchovies cut chopped parsley small

pepper, salt and 4 lb . fresh mush n utmeg rooms 4 tomatoes , skinned l tablespoonful and Seeded ﬂour 1 tablespoonful olive oil

Heat the oil in a stewpan,and in it cook the chopped vegetables c v and an ho ies for a few minutes , sprinkle with the ﬂour, and add Slowly about half a pint of warm water, stirring constantly . F cu t inally add the ﬁsh , small , cover the stewpan and cook slowly for two hours or a little longer , adding more water from time to time if the dish looks like becom ing too dry .

C R E A M O F B A C C A L A

Creamed salt cod TO SERVE 4

2 . a 24 lbs of the best cut of salt cod , so ked hours , skinned and boned and then steamed for 14 hours

P ﬁsh i f ound the in a mortar, add ng a little olive oil rom time to time and working till the whole is reduced to a creamy mass , At adding, if it appears too dry, a little warm milk . the end d re- of the poun ing, heat in a double boiler, then pile on a warmed dish and serve with Slices of crisply fried bread .

T U N N Y A S C O O K E D I N L I G U R I A TO SERVE 4

1 1 c lb . tunny clove garli , ‘ ventresca ’ cut in crushed thin slices 1 heaped anchovies tablespoonfu l c f oz . dried hopped resh

mushrooms , parsley reconstituted by 2 tablespoonsful soaking in warm olive oil water for ten pint white wine mi nutes tablespoonful ﬂour

Heat the oil , add the flour, then slowly add the wine , the an d s anchovies pounded to a paste the other ingredient , except a m for the fish ; llow to cook together for ten inutes , stirring Add frequently . the tunny fish , and pepper and salt to taste ; the cover stewpan, and lower the heat, allowing to cook slowly fo r R three quarters of an hour . emove the fish to a hot dish , o f o f w and to the sauce add a piece butter the size a alnut, and the juice of half a lemon ; bring this to boiling point and pour fish an d over the serve hot . S T U R G E O N , H O U S E W I F E S T Y L E TO SERVE 4

1 2 a lb . sturgeon cut slices bre d , into thin slices soaked in m ilk 1 chopped onion and squeezed dry 1 tablespoonful 1 wineglassful chopped fresh of sherry r 1 l pa sley egg, beaten light y salt and pepper breadcru m bs for a pinch of nutmeg coating

” Mix h c a a toget er the hopped onion , p rsley, s lt, pepper and d use l t w t wo soake bread , and as a fil ing be een each slices of ‘ ’ Di c in the fish . p the sandwi hes the beaten egg and then in h t o n e breadcrumbs , and fry in o butter, first on side and then s l on the other, then pour over them the herry , and al ow to fo r u S cook all together quarter of an ho r . erve hot with the s u the sli s o f h a ce poured over ce fis .

T R I G L I E A L L A L I V O R N E S E ’ Rea mullet Leghorn style

Al - u R low one medium sized red m llet per person . emove the fi ns an d s La fish inside , the and the scales wa h well . y the side ‘ ’ by side in a flat dish in which you have prepared a so firitt o a i u of a t blespoonful of ol ve oil , a clove of garlic cr shed, a little o chopped fennel, salt and pepper, and co k m a hot oven for ‘ ’ ten minutes ; then cover with tomato sauce (See SAU CES al i ur lower the heat slightly and low to fin sh cooking, for a f ther lf ha hour in a moderate oven .

[ 113 ] F R I E D R E D M U L L E 'I’

1 medium sized ﬁsh salted anchovies 1 c per person clove garli , 2 tablespo ons olive crushed oil 1 tablespoon pepper and salt to chopped parsley taste

c l Heat the oil , and in it fry the hopped anchovies , and a low the mul let to brown first on one Side and then on the other ; when brown , sprinkle over the fish the parsley and crushed garlic, lower the heat and allow to finish cooking the mullet need about fifteen minutes cooking in all ; just before removing fr and om the fire , add a tablespoon of capers to the sauce pour over the fish when serving .

T R I G L I E A L L A L I G U R E Red mullet as cooked in Liguria TO SERVE 4

4 medium siz ed red l chopped onion mullet a little chopped 1 tablespoon fennel

4 chopped parsley } oz . dried 2 anchovies cut in mushroom s small pieces reconstituted in 1 tablespoonful olive warm water oil 1 wineglassful 5 pint tomato sauce white wine

Heat the oil in a heavy pan and in it place the onion parsley, fennel and chopped mushrooms and anchovies, and allow to cook together for five minutes , then add the tomato sauce hi i and w te wine and cook for a further twenty minutes, stirr ng u M an d freq ently . eanwhile clean prepare the fish and lay di c them side by side in a flat earthenware sh . When the sau e is cooked, pour over the fish, and place in a hot oven and cook fo r i twenty m nutes .

C anchovies and seasonings . ook together for ten minutes , then pass through a sieve , and use as suggested when cooking trout,

. It fil s f carp , mackerel, etc is also good with cod lets . j u t be ore an d serving, remove the fish keep hot, and add to the sauce the jui ce of half a lemon ; cook the sauce fo r a further two or m three inutes and when serving, pour over the cooked fish . The fish section of an Italian cookery book would be far ‘ ’ from complete if no reference were made to scampi , those he A natives of t waters of the driatic that, though they resemble o wn D Ba s our ublin y prawn , are plumper and have a some ‘ ’ ’ n S it what fi er flavour . ince is not easy to obtain scampi at one s fishm o n ers D l Ba ns local g , ub in y praw may be substituted , though with a wishful thought fo r the finer flavour the dish ‘ ’ wou ld have if on ly one were on the shores o f the Adriatic and able to obtain the right ingredient with ease .

F R I E D S C A M P I

' Fo r this you m ay suit your own particular fancy ; allowin g ten fr fish or a dozen per person , remove the shells, and y the in any of these three ways Du st lightly with flour and fry in hot olive oil , serving with sections of lemon . Dip first in beaten egg and then in crisp breadcrumbs and fry in hot oil or hot butter and serve with sections of lemon . Di n p in a light fryi g batter and fry in hot butter, again S S T See erving with sections of lemon, or with auce artare (

[ 1 16 ] S C A M P I A L L A L O M B A R D A Scampi as cooked in Lombardy TO SERVE 4

36 to 40 scampi or 4 cloves D n Ba ubli y 5 small onion, prawns chopped small l wineglassfu l whi te 1 tablespoonful wine vinegar chopped parsley 1 bay leaf a little chopped fennel 1 clove garlic salt to taste crushed

Mix t c fish o toge her all the ingredients ex ept the , and c ok re together for five minutes in a stewp an ; then add the fish , c c m i moved from shell , over, and ook over a ed um heat for w m s quarter of an hour or t enty inute , stirring from time to

S . time . erve very hot If k s e fo r li ed , Shrimps may be ubstitut d the scampi in the foregoing recipe .

S C A M P I A L L A M O D E N E S E Scampi as cooked in Modena TO SERVE 4 36 to 40 scam pi 1 sm all onion or Dublin Bay chopped ﬁne P 1 l rawns smal carrot, 1 oz . butter diced 1 tablespoonfu l 1 wineglassful chopped parsley whi te win e a little chopped 1 wineglassful thym e whi te vinegar

t he r x Heat the butter, add other ing edients , with the e ception M of the fish and cook together for quarter of an hour . eanwhile fis h C prepare the , add them to the sauce and ook over a mod c S rate flame for a further quarter of an hour . erve hot , covered with the sauce .

{ 1 17 } N A S E L L O C O N P I S E L L I Whiting with peas TO SERVE 4

4 whiting 1 medi um Sized o n c tablespoonful ion , hopped ﬁne chopped parsley 1 tablespoonful oil 1 f 1 lb . shelled green tablespoon ul peas (weighed tomato conserve after shelling)

d M f . Hal cook the peas in boiling salted water and rain eanwhile ,

‘ heat the oil in a stewpan , and in it brown the onion , parsley w and the whiting ; when the whiting is bro ned on both sides , add the drained peas , and the tomato conserve diluted with a little boiling water, and allow to cook for a further ﬁfteen minutes over moderate heat .

C U R L E D W H I T I N G

If you can persuade your fi shm o nger to prepare whiting in - f wa the old ashioned y, skinning them and passing the tail through the eye sockets , allowing one per person, flour the fish lightly and fry a golden brown on both sides in hot butter

S . in a heavy frying pan . erve with sections of lemon

P E S C I A C C A R T O C C I A T I Fish in paper cases

o f f You will need pieces greaseproo paper, one for each piece of fish to be cooked , and of a size large enough to envelop the c Oil fish entirely and wrap well over so that no jui es escape . d the pieces of paper on one si e , and oil whatever fish you are l n planning to cook, and lay it on the paper , after sprink i g c c it with salt and pepper , a little hopped onion , a s raping of c c garli , hopped parsley or other herbs you may fancy, half

O S T R I C H E A L L A V E N E Z I A N A

O sters Venetian s le y , ty

At the risk of being accused of heresy fo r suggesting methods of i I V cook ng oysters , would suggest trying this enetian method . Al ﬁsh low half a dozen oysters per person ; open the , loosen th them in their shells , and to each add a little of e following m o f l ixture , and a few drops o ive oil before grilling under a hot

Serve wi th sections of lemon .

M I " T U R E

1 tablespoon chopped a pinch o f chopped fresh parsley fresh t hyme l stalk of celery pepper to taste chopped ﬁnely l tablespoonful crisp 1 o f a r clove g rlic , breadc umbs crushed

P I G S I N B L A N K E T S

O s A ysters again, and oy ters cooked . llow six per person , remove f w r o f ea rom the shells , rap each oyste in a strip ham or str ky in bacon, and fry hot butter .

O R W I T H O U T B L A N K E T S

Om w ham itting the rapping of or bacon , dip the shelled oysters ﬁrst in beaten egg and then in breadcrumbs and fry in hot but S ter . erve with sections of lemon .

[ 120 ] F R I T T O M I S T O M A R E

If I you go to taly, and having visited a town on the coast come away without having eaten at least one dish of Fritto Misto M mi In are , then you ght almost as well have stayed at home . Veni ce you will probably be served with a mixture of tiny c c o topus , not much larger than a hefty house spider, s ampi , mi l f and nute mu let , all dipped in a light batter and ried in hot an d oil, drained served with sections of lemon . Farther south you may meet some peculiar white circles in your Fritto l\/Iist o Mare that have a more than slight resem R blance in text ure to the pencil eraser o f school days . ubber it ’ -ﬁsh n isn t , but ink it is , and it Should previously have u dergone t i d re a fairly leng hy operation of sk nning, having its insi es its - and th e n e i moved , eyesand ink bag removed also , bala c bo led an d until tender, this may take up to an hour if you want to - n avoid that too great resembla ce to pencil eraser texture . h an d -ﬁsh n W en tender, not before , the ink should be cut i to ’ f o wn F M s M rings , and if you re rying your ritto i to are , allow s a m six of these per per on, with the s me number of sca pi and tw one or o tiny mullet.

C L A M S O R M U S S E L S C O O K E D

W I T H E G f G S

A 1 o f t he ﬁs llow about 4 pints h per person . B m in w two efore cooking, leave the slightly salted ater for hours so that they may open and the sand may come out of

them . Meanwhile prepare in a heavy pan a of two table spoonsful of oil in which you have browned a small chopped a add ﬁs h onion and a teaspoonful of chopped p rsley ; the and , a two when they are opened, add the be ten yolks of or three ﬁs h an d the ui o f l f eggs , depending on the quantity of , j ce ha i an d lin o a lemon . Stir the m xture , keep it just below boi g p int,

and serve as soon as it is wel l m ixed .

[ 12 1 ] M S r M C L A o U S S E L S , — ’ F I SiII E R M E N S S T Y L E

Hav m fish c g cleaned the , pla e them in a covered pan over a fair ly strong heat until they begin to open ; uncover the pan c an at this point, and sprinkle the fish with hopped parsley d c v O rushed garlic, and ser e as soon as all are pened . You will fin d they make sufficient juice o f their own not to require additional liquid .

S O L E W I T H W H I T E W I N E

A z Sk llow one medium si ed sole per person . in and remove the head and fins and dust with flour . Heat a little butter in a heavy fis h pan until it bubbles , lay in the and cook first on one side n f o f then the other, then pour over it a wi eglass ul white wine i for each fish , and a little fish stock made from bo ling together R an d c t the head , skin and fins . educe the heat ook gently un il tender, by which time the sauce will have reduced in volume . c When serving, strain the sau e over the fish .

The substitution of cider for white wine is well worth trying .

S O L E F R I E D I N O I L

Al o n e m - low mediu Sized fish per person ; skin, remove head Di and fins . p first in flour and then in beaten egg , and fry c qui kly, first on one side then on the other, in hot oil until

S . light golden brown . erve very hot with sections of lemon

[ 122 ]

T E N C H

i Hav ng cleaned your tench, allow to marinate for half an hour in olive oil to which has been added a little chopped fresh r D rosema y, pepper and salt . rain and grill on both sides and serve very hot .

G R I L L E D G R E Y M U L L E T

A l S o ff llow one medium sized grey mu let per person . crape

a c . Oil the sc les with the ba k of a knife , clean and wipe dry all an d l over sprink e with salt and pepper, and cook on a hot

t . grill, ﬁrst on one side hen on the other

R E D M U L L E T

A T f . hese should be eaten very resh llow one per person . Scrape o ff c n the s ales , and clea , removing all the inside except the al l liver ; wash well , wipe dry, oil over, sprinkle with pepper and salt an d grill ﬁrst on one side and then on the other and serve hot .

S T U R G E O N

If k l you intend coo ing a whole sturgeon, choose a fairly smal ff . S o c ﬁsh crape the scales with the ba k of a knife , clean and M a remove the inside ; wash and wipe dry . ake several sm ll holes with the point o fa knife and in these insert ﬁl lets ofsalted ancho

v . P two o f y lace in a vessel and cover with wineglasses oil, salt, two and the juice of lemons , a little chopped parsley and L chopped thyme . eave for 2 hours . Remove and drain ; wrap in gr easeproof paper and bake in a moderate oven for 1 hour ; c 20 25 m remove the paper and ook for a further to inutes , basting during this time with the mixture in which it was S allowed to marinate erve very hot .

124 R O A S T T U N N Y F I S H

After our o wn brief acquaintance with beige - coloured tunny ’ fish a i hi in sm ll t ns , it is a startling t ng to behold one s first piece ‘ ’ - c d o f fi sh of tunny in the raw , a huge, liver oloure piece on ’ n r S c a fis hm o ge s slab in Naples or the towns of i ily . Fo r roast tu nny take a fairly thi ck slice of fresh tunny and t s l place it in an ear henware vessel with half a winegla sfu of oil , c c ni c o f some hopped parsley, hopped o on , the jui e a lemon , A one or t wo cloves and salt and pepper to taste . llow it to c n remain in this marinade for a ouple of hours , turni g from D t an d time to time . rain , sprinkle wi h breadcrumbs bake in the 1 s oven for hour or a little longer, ba ting from time to time with the mar inading mixtur e .

C A P P O N M A G R O

If ff you are expecting guests for a bu et supper, and know them ﬁsh a a et is to be lovers of , you could prep re few things more pp in i ﬁ sh G g than th s famous salad , originating in enoa , but likely in I a Bu t to be found any seaside town in t ly . be warned , it takes

m . a lot of ti e for shopping, and for preparation , and it is costly The recipe gi ven below should prove sufﬁcient for a party of eight or nine . F all ds irst of , look out your han omest round or oval serving ‘ ’ N do dish, for this is a dressed up dish . ext , if you want to the ’ a cui j ob properly, procure half pound of ships bis ts , break them n nf up , and soak them over ight in a tablespoo ul of olive oil If ’ mixed with an equal quantity of vinegar . you don t like the ’ c f in sound of the ships bis uits, dry hal a dozen slices of bread r as the oven , and when they are crisp , t eat them suggested for ’ hi in s . N o f the s ps bi cuits ext, prepare a selection vegetables ‘ a f o r m o re o f m s an d season, say h l a pound s all new potatoe , i il s f F s m ar quantitie of shelled resh green peas , rench beans , n l a you g carrots , cau iﬂower ; cook them sep rately in boiling, d ’ d salte water don t overcook rain and set on one side . P s repare a head of celery, é a pound of button mushroom , 2 l ounces black o ives, a similar quantity of green olives , and four hard boiled eggs ; a small jar of preserved artichoke hearts would add interest to the dish ; one or two small cooked beetroot u is would be colo rful and this a dish where colour matters . Cu t the mushrooms in, pieces and marinate with a little oil and

Vinegar, pepper and salt . c Where fish is oncerned , prepare a boiled lobster, a pint of shrimps or prawns ; half a dozen scallops ; and two pounds of some good white fish , turbot, sole or halibut . P c oach the white fish and the s allops for seven minutes , lift a from the water, fl ke and season with oil , lemon juice , pepper S and salt . hell the shrimps , and remove the lobster from its a c shell , and season these lso with oil , lemon jui e and pepper and salt . Next prepare the special sauce for Cappo n Magro

1 teaspoon chopped clove garlic parsley tablespoons capers anchovies or 3 gherkin s a e ks 2 t bl spoon chopped egg yol ( raw, nuts 2 hard boiled) pinch of oregano tablespoons vinegar pint olive oil green olives tablespoon grated thick slice of

fennel root bread, soaked in vinegar and squeezed dry

P c c la e the parsley and garli in a mortar and pound to a paste , add capers , olives (having removed the stones) , gherkins, d a fennel , hard boiled egg yolks , brea , nuts and oreg no ; when d a all poun ed to a paste , slowly add the oil , the vineg r and the two raw egg yolks , stirring with a wooden spoon ; the finished c c c sau e Should have the onsisten y of mayonnaise . All ingredients being now ready, you may start your dish . F f ’ irst of all arrange a plat orm of the Ships biscuits or bread , and on it spread a little of the sauce ; next arrange the various ingredients attractively in pyramid fashion on the pl atform of ’ i ui ships b sc ts , a layer of flaked fish, a layer of assorted vegeta The bles , a layer of the sauce and so on until all are used up . - c bright coloured vegetables , the sli ed beetroot, peas and small s as u n or diced carrot , may be used garnishes , as may a few c i shelled prawns, the lobster claws , cra ked for easy eat ng, and T i the quartered hard boiled eggs . h s dish should, of course , ‘ ’ c be served very old , and the prettier it is in appearance the better . them and then cut in pieces and marinate them fo r an hour in d a little oil to which you have a ded a chopped onion , a little parsley, a bay leaf, a little chopped thyme and/or rosemary, D pepper and salt and the juice of half a lemon . rain, and flour t hem lightly and fry in hot oil or butter . Or for a m ore elaborate experiment try

R A N E A L L A C A S T A L D A

P f w repare the rogs as suggested for fried frogs , but hen they two have soaked in water or three hours , dry them, but do not s m cut them in pieces , tru s the with the legs crossed over the in body, ﬂour them lightly, then brown them a stewpan with rus a little butter ﬂavoured with chopped parsley, a c hed clove all of garlic , pepper and salt . When they are browned over add half an ounce of dri ed mushro oms reconstituted in warm water two u o f w and cut in pieces , and wineglassf ls white ine, and cook over m oderate heat in a covered pan for half an hou r or u ntil

n S r t o f . they are te der . e ve wi h sections lemon

[ 128 ] Meats

he following pages give but a small selection from the I c numerous ways talian ooks have of cooking beef, veal , l c mutton, pork, and the various edible entrai s lassed in E ’ ‘ ﬂ l ’ nglish butchers shops as o a . To ﬁ the casual visitor to the country, it might appear that o ‘ ’ f i c cal is allowed to grow to maturity, s n e vitello (veal) makes

m en u s . bu t so frequent an appearance on all , living in the coun try one meets fai rly frequently all the meats eaten in this country li u s fo r of ours , plus several unfami ar to , as , example , young kid , hi c w h in taste greatly resembles lamb . S i f b uck ng pig and equally youth ul lambs are delicacies to . e I - s met with in taly, and, despite their over richnes , they are R delicious . ecipes for these have not been given , however, E since they are so rarely met with nowadays in ngland .

[ 129 ] M A N Z O I N U M I D O " Stewed B erg

1 2 or 3 lbs . stewing onion NOT 2 ck c cu t beef, cut in sti s elery all small pieces 1 carrot Slices streaky bacon beef marrow if t ablespo o n wt o m at o available conserve diluted meat stock 1 with a little broth oz . butter

With the point of a sharp knife m ake several small holes in the piece of beef and into these stuff strips o f streaky bacon ; season with pepper , salt and nutmeg .

Having prepared your piece of meat in this fashion , place it w u o f in a ste pan with about an o nce butter, a little beef marrow if e w available , and the chopped veg tables and allo to brown o slowly, turning the meat so that it br wns on all sides ; then add C meat stock nearly to cover it . over the stewpan and cook over

1 3 W l slow heat for 2} or hours . hen ha f cooked , add the m o f tomato conserve diluted with so e the broth , and continue m eat fis ul cooking till the tender, by which time the broth sho d S u be reduced in quantity and thickened . erve in a dish, s rround ed by the broth .

M A N Z O I N U M I D O A L L A T R I E S T I N A Stewed bed as cooked in Trieste

a piece of lean ste 2 rashers of streaky wing beef about bacon

2 . 1 lbs in weight onion , 2 stalks 3 cloves of celery and l salt and pepper carrot chopped 1 oz . butter small stock whi te wine

Make h oles in the beef with the point of a sharp knife - and push strips of the streaky bacon into them ; season with salt and

S T U F A T O A L L A F I O R E N T I N A Stew as cooked in Florence

2 lbs . stewing beef cut l teaspoonfu l in pieces for chopped rosemary serving l wineglassfu l red 2 tablespoonsful wine olive oil 1 tablespoonfu l t o 3 o f cloves garlic , mato conserve crushed

Heat the oil and m it allow the garlic and rosemary to brown f be ore adding the meat ; allow the meat also to brown, then

4 w f and reduce heat and add } a ineglass ul ofred wine , the tomato co nserve dilu ted w t m o f i h a si ilar q uantity meat stock or water . Co w fo r 2 ver the pan and cook slo ly 4 hours, adding more hot stock or boiling water from tim e to tim e if the meat looks like m dr beco ing y. If i o in m a l ked, potat es peeled and cut pieces y be added to the a an f er so t a ﬂav u stewp n hour be ore s ving, h t they absorb the b r o f the meat as they cook .

s if o u are bu f Where veal i concerned , y able to y it ro m a Conti n nt al o u o f e butcher, do so , for y will find he has a better idea cutting up veal for cutlets and escalopes than his British coun t er art E o c r S f 0 p . xcellent veal can be pr u ed in oho rom the sh p u lcke Old Co S and of Benoit B in mpton treet, there are other good Continental butchers to be fou nd in o ther parts o fLo ndon and in most large cities . ‘ ’ If yo u are buying veal for escalo pes a yo u need thin slices f f o f o m fi if o u o the lean meat cut r m the leg or r the llet, and y ‘ ’ s o f r m m are not the posse sor a; cutlet bat , e e ber to ask your butcher to flatten the escalopes fo r you with his cleaver ; this t far m n type o f rough reatment means a ore tender fi ished dish , h u u alm and an escalope, remember, s o ld be tender eno gh ost t to melt m the m ou th when ea en. ’ It s as well to be extravagant when cooking veal , using butter f r f t u t s l o rying, ra her than dripping; b ter cost a litt e more, but the flavou r is lighter and far m o re delicious when veal is fried

crisp in go od bu tter .

132 1m m “ C O S T O L E T T E o r S C A L O P P E M I L A N E S E

Either a cutlet or an escalope of veal may be cooked ‘ alla Mila ’ In l f o nese . either case a low one or one and a hal per pers n , o t depending up n the size , and before star ing to cook, either f ﬂatten the meat yoursel with a cutlet bat, or have the butcher

flatten it for you . I n u Mi l f you wa t to be tr ly lanese, you will al ow your meat to marinate in a bath o f milk for an hour or so before starting n m an a to cook it, but this refi ement may be o itted without y re l detri ment to the finished dish .

Remove all fat and gristle . Coat your cutlets or escalopes in beaten egg which has been u s o ff seasoned with salt and pepper ; allow s rplu egg to drip , then dip the meat in ﬁn e toasted breadcrumbs before frying it C ui on both sides in a generous amount of hot butter . ook q ckly d on one si e until golden , then turn and cook the other, and lift out of the pan with a perforated slice so t hat any su rplus n S r ns fat goes back i to the pan . e ve with q uartered lemo and a garnish o f parsley . e n You may either serve th se hot , with a green salad , or havi g drained them well , and allowed them to cool, they are equally deliciou s served cold .

S C A L O P P I N E A L M A R S A L A

‘ The o f f Mar combination thin, crisply ried pieces of veal with m sala is an experi ent well worth trying . S ‘ ’ caloppine , known sometimes by the name of piccate , are much smaller than escalopes ; they are o u t very thin and shoul d T not be much more than 2 inches square . hree or four per person is the usual allowance . B u eat your scaloppine flat, and flour them with flo r that has an d In n been seasoned with pepper salt . a fryi g pan large s enough to accommodate them , if pos ible , in one layer, heat u an d is a fairly genero s knob of butter, when it really hot, brown s a n u the c loppi e very q ickly on each side . While they are still in o n M s ur the pan , add about a tablesp o ful of ar ala for every fo i o fu o f scaloppine , and bring to a bubbling bo l ; add a teaspo n l c c c c Ma hi ken sto k for ea h tablespoonful of rsala ; stir well , and s R allow to cook for a few moment under a lower heat . emember that one essential of this dish is "UICK cooking ; altogether the process should take under ten minutes .

Serve very hot .

S C A L O P P E A L L A M O D E N E S E

Allow one or one and a half escalopes per person ; flatten them ' c c with a utlet bat, oat with egg and breadcrumbs and fry in hot T butter . hen place the escalopes side by side in a flat fireproof dish , and on top of each place a slice of ham , and on top of that P G e c . c a thin slice of ruy re heese la e in a hot oven , and serve immediately the cheese has melted .

S C A L O P P E o r C O S T O L E T T E D I V I T E L L O A L S U G O

Prepare your esca10 pes as fo r SCALOPPE ALLA MILANESE then arrange them in a ﬂat ﬁreproof dish , and over them pour ‘ ’ hot tomato sauce (see SAUCES ) which will be all the better if when making it you have added a bay leaf. w S a . erve hot, ith a green s lad

V I T E L L O T O N N A T O Veal with Tunny Fish

Remove the skin an d fat from a piece of leg of veal remove the T e an d c . i bone , sti k the meat with small ﬁllets of anchovy it 1 uc c ﬁrmly and allow it to boil for ; hours in a sa epan , overed completely with water in which have been placed a small onion ,

c l c . two loves , a bay leaf, a ittle hopped celery, parsley and salt At the end of this time , lift the meat from the water reserving

f . cu t the broth to orm the basis of a minestrone Untie the meat , c c d c it in sli es and pla e in a ish covered with the following sau e , d in which it should be left for two ays , after which it should be

r s . se ved cold , with the sauce served in a separate ves el

Pound together all the ingredients except the butter in a mortar f d until a paste is orme , then add the butter and cream well P hi the together . our into the dish in w ch chops are to be o served , and keep hot ver a saucepan ofboiling water . When the chops are cooked . arrange in the dish and serve hot with sections of lemon .

V I T E L L O I N F R I C A S S E A , ' Fricassee of veal

l Fr u Cu t lean veal into sma l pieces . y an onion ntil golden brown in a little butter ; add the pieces of veal and brown on all sides ; w cover ith boiling stock, lower the heat and allow to cook until

1 M about half the liquid is evaporated (about } an hour) . ean i two o r wh le, beat three egg yolks with the juice of half a lemon i n and a l ttle chopped parsley, and whe the veal has ﬁnished an d mi w cooking, add the egg lemon xture , removing the ste Mix pan from the heat so as not to curdle the eggs . well and serve hot .

R O A S T V E A f.

Al 30 300 F low about minutes to the pound at degrees ahrenheit . P o f ound together a clove garlic and an anchovy , and rub these C over the roast of veal before cooking . over the meat with strips of fat bacon or salt pork to prevent its drying out, and Be if cook in a casserole with a little butter. careful you are salting it not to overdo this , as the anchovy will have made f At a f it airly salty . the end of the cooking, add a h l a glass of red v w f wine to the gra y, and baste the veal ith this be ore removing ‘ from the oven .

O S S O B U C O

T ‘A his is the knuckle of veal , rich and tasty when prepared lla M ’ ilanese . ‘ O S S O B U C O A L L A .M I L A N E S E TO SERVE 4

Allow one small 2 or 3 o z s . butter knuckle of veal ﬂour

per person, and salt and pepper it shoul d be sawn 1 win eglassfu l dry nearly through in white win e sections about 1}4 1 tablespo onful

or 2 inches long, chopped parsley so that one has 1 anchovy a number of sections grated rind of half

of bone, each a lemon surrounded by a stock or water

circle of mu scle . Heat the butter in a heavy pan large enough to accommodate the veal knuckles in one layer ; ﬂour the knuckles and brown n on both sides in the hot butter, seasoni g with salt and pepper ; c ki add the wine , and continue oo ng until the wine has almost evaporated , then add stock or water just to cover the meat ; n cover closely, and cook slowly for at least an hour, addi g more M stock if it looks as though the meat is drying . eanwhile pound a together in a mort r the garlic, anchovy, lemon rind and parsley, in and ﬁve m utes before serving, add to the gravy, and bring to the r boil , sti ring with a wooden spoon . It O R is customary to serve ssobuco with a plain isotto , col o ur ed ffr the with sa on ; this, incidentally, is only instance of / rice served with a meat dish .

A G N E L L O A R R O S T O

Roast Lamb

Tr R I hi B y oasting a leg of lamb talian fas on . efore putting it in th e 1n the oven , make a slit ﬂesh near the bone and into this t wo an d Oil place one or cloves of garlic a sprig of rosemary . i 15 the meat l ghtly all over, and place in a hot oven, allowing mi 15 i n f nutes to the pound and m nutes over, and basti g rom i o il an d l 15 m in t me to time with ,f , to make it even more de icious , f n fu hi utes be ore servi g, pour over it a wineglass l o f w te win e and baste ﬁnally with the j ui ces that have run into the roast ing pan . A G N E L L O O C A P R E T T O I N C A S S E R U O L A

Lamb o r Kid Po t Roast

Kid is eaten a great deal in Italy and the ﬂesh of young goats Tr makes excellent eatin g . y a leg of either kid or lamb stuck at intervals with rosemary, salted , and then browned on all sides in a stewpan in which two tablespoonsful of olive oil have been Co heated . ver the stewpan when the ﬂesh is brown ed on all 15 m u sides, and allow it to cook slowly, in tes to the pound, in the steam that will develop in the stewpan once it is covered .

' P O R K C O O K E D I N M I L K ‘ A L L A B O L O G N E S E ’

Fo r c this you need a pie e of loin of pork , boned and with some If B of its fat removed . you are going to cook it in the true olo n ese g manner, you will prepare it overnight by sprinkling with salt and pepper and leaving till morning, but this treatment is if m not absolutely essential time is at a pre ium . If s rin you are preparing the meat the day you are cooking , p kle c it with salt and bla k pepper before rolling it up, and it is an improvement if a clove of garlic is sliced thi n and rolled up few o f in the centre of the meat, together with a seeds coriander or fennel . ‘ m t he o f thBr o lled Use a saucepan that is ore or less size joint, and when the pork is ready for the pan, heat a little butter in it and brown the pork all over . m l Heat the milk, allowing roughly a pint of i k to each pound

. C a of pork, and pour over the meat over the saucepan and llow to Simmer gently for an hour or a little longer ; uncover, and c allow to cook for another half hour , by whi h time the quantity d c of liquid will be reduce onsiderably, and it should be a golden c T c d brown in olour . ake are that the saucepan oes not go dry ; if there is any danger of this , add a little more hot milk . The f joint is excellent hot , served with the sauce rom the c add few u ooking, and if you are able to a sliced tr fﬂes to this it is all the better . Another addi tion is that o f a chopped onion and a rasher of f bacon cut in small pieces , and cooked in the butter be ore the o e p rk is brown d .

P O R K C H O P S W I . T H P R U N E S TO SERVE 6

6 pork chops oil or butter fo r salt and pepper frying 2 tablespoons whi te wine

Heat the oil with the pepper and salt in a stewpan and in it fry u the chops ﬁrst on one side and then on the other ntil brown , add the wine and cook over slightly lowered heat until the wine has evaporated , then remove the chops to a hot dish and c over with the following sauce .

S A U C E’

1 oni on 2 slices l ean ham 1 oz . butter 2 tablespoons wine 10 or a dozen prunes vinegar which have been salt soaked in water chopped thym e until softened bay leaf

S u n f o s es Fr oak the pr es, and when so t rem ve the ton . y the chopped onion and ham cut in small pieces in butter u ntil light n an d is brown, add the vi egar, cook until the sauce reduced by

- f. P w a one hal lace the prunes in a small saucepan , ith b rely o f t m enough water to cover them, a pinch chopped hy e and P a bay leaf and cook slowly till soft . ass through a sieve or food mill and add to the chopped onion and ham ; well and r pou over the pork chops .

[ 140 ] S A;L S I C C I E A L L A T R I E S T I N A Sausages as cooked in Tri este TO SER VE 4

1 2 s o lb . pure po rk table po ns grated sausages Parmesan l wineglassful meat stock white wine

P c few uncture the sausages , then pla e in a saucepan with a s i o f t w n tablespoon of stock, and a w neglassful whi e i e and coo k gently on the top of the stove for about twenty minutes ; at the h P a e r l end of t at time , add the armes n ch ese , sti we l, and serve

very hot .

S A U S A G E S W I T H T O M A T O S A U C E TO SERVE 4

1 o lb . pure p rk chopped sage toma to sauce (See ‘ SAU CES ’ )

Pu n t u the saus fr in which a tea c re ages , then y the olive oil to g spoonful o f chopped sage has been added ; when they are

w a . C n bro ned, cover with tomato s uce over pa and cook gently

fo r w m n u t The sa e ~ m a m if is t enty i es . g y be o itted the ﬂavour not liked .

F E G A T O A L L A S P A G N O L A Liver as served in Spain TO SERVE 6

’ 1 1 f s 1 ll firm } lbs . cal liver dozen sma 2 large oni ons sliced tomatoes thinly into rings 1 lemon sprigs o f parsley o il flo ur salt and pepper Heat the grill , and meanwhile , dip the liver sliced to about c an d the thi kness of half an inch . in the flour, then into oil , Set d grill first on one side then on the other . on one si e to keep warm , and having seasoned the tomatoes with salt, pepper and l n oil , grill these a so . While this is going on , fry the o ions until d an d a gol en yellow . Have ready a large flat dish , pile the onions into a pyramid in the centre , with the Slices of liver d around , garnished with grille tomatoes and sprigs of parsley , cu and the lemon t into sections .

F E G A T O A L L’ I T A L I A N A Liver in the Italian style TO SERVE s

’ I c l s "lbs . a f liver, ﬂour cut into thin pepper and salt slices 1 lemon

2 ozs . butter

f F Heat the butter very hot in a large heavy rying pan . lour the fr slices of liver and y quickly, first on one side and then on the six other, the whole process to take not more than five or minu S tes . eason with pepper and salt, add a small knob of butter , and shake the pan well so that it is distributed over the slices o f R the liver . emove pan from the fire , and sprinkle the liver with the juice of half a lemon before removing to a hot dish for S serving . erve very hot . Having tried out these two fairly conservative methods of r T cooking liver, how about t ying a uscan specialty, as per the following recipe :

[ 142 ]

F E G A T O A L L A V E N E Z I A N A

Fo r each person allow about a quarter o f a pound o f liver and one large onion cut into rings . Heat the oil in a heavy pan and in it cook the onions until they are a golden yellow ; add the liver ﬂoured and cook quickly on either side , season with salt and pepper and serve piled upon a bed of the fried onions . T hen , for real luxury, why not try liver cooked with arti " ‘ ’ chokes Since Globe artichokes are not always easy to obtain t in this country, you may have to make do with the bot led or n ti ned variety, well drained .

L I V E R W I T H A R T I C H O K E S

’ Fo r al w o f o f a f each person lo quarter a pound c l s liver, and one t wo or artichokes . In a heavy pan fry a cho pped onion m a little oil until it is golden brown ; lower the heat and add the artichokes divided an d fo r m into sections , cook slowly twenty inutes or so until the are artichokes tender ; increase the heat, add the floured liver and co o k q uickly on first one side then the other ; remove from an d o f the heat, season with salt, pepper a tablespoonful finely w chopped parsley ; sprinkle ith lemon juice , and shake the pan well so that liver and artichokes are impregnated with the n S seaso ings and lemon juice . erve on a hot dish . ’ Here is an excellent way o f serving pig s liver as prepared in T T s uscany. here it is customary to serve the liver thu treated on o f ba a skewer, interspersed with small sections toast, and y wa o f leaves , but since grilling on a skewer is not the easiest y w cooking ith modern appliances , omit the toast and the bay ’ o f leaves , and having dipped your thin slices pig s liver in beaten egg, dip them in the following mixture so that they are t completely coated with it , and fry quickly in hot oil, hen serve o f with sections lemon . M I " T U R E F O R C O A T I N G

A d dc c good han ful of crisp brea rumbs ; a clove of garli , crushed an d or cut very ﬁne , a teaspoonful of fennel seeds , salt / pepper . Mix well together an d when t he liver has been dipped in beaten

h . egg, coat wit this mixture before frying in hot oil

F L A N D I F E G A T O

’ c 5 lb . alves liver or oz . butter c hicken livers ozs . salt pork 1 slice ham or 2 tru fﬂes or c a pin h of spices 4 oz . dried mush 2 Slices of bread rooms (soaked in soaked in sto ck water for ten and squeez ed dry minutes)

Pass all ingredients through a mincer and add half a wineglass M ful of arsala , half a wineglassful of stock, two whole eggs an d one additional yolk ; mix well and place in a greased so u fﬂé dish and cook in a moderate oven for t wenty m inutes or half

an hour .

P O L P E T T E D I F E G A T O

Liver rissoles

’ 4 ; lb . calves liver 2 slices bread 1 slice fat pork soaked in stock and squeezed dry

P ound these to a pulp with a pestle and mortar, then add P e a three tablespoons grated armesan chees , s lt and pepper two an d l to taste , egg yolks beaten , form into smal rissoles the ‘ ' ’ z S k ffn si e of a walnut . prin le with ﬂour an d fry in a So t o of oil c S and hopped onion . prinkle with a little white wine when l they are ha f cooked . T R I P P A A L L’ I T A L I A N A

Tri e Italian ashion p , f TO SERVE 4

1 1 lb . tripe large onion 1 clove garlic 4 tablespoons olive 1 dessertspoo n oil 2 ﬂour medium tomatoes , 1 pint stock peeled 1 teaspoon chopped l carrot basil 1 stalk celery salt 1 teaspoon bay leaf chopped parsley P¢PPer

Heat the oil and in it fry the chopped onion and crushed

garlic until they are golden brown and then stir in the ﬂour . Cu t s r the wa hed t ipe into squares , and add to the mixture cu t S together with the tomatoes peeled and small . lowly add c the sto k, stirring to prevent sticking to bottom of pan ; add c c a A di ed elery and c rrot and seasoning . llow to simmer gently S a for an hour and a half. erve hot, removing the bay le f before v ser ing .

T R I P P A A L L A F I O R E N T I N A

Tri e Florentine st le p , y TO SERVE 4

1 1 c b. tripe 4 pint tomato sau e ‘ ’ See SA CES pepper and salt, ( U ) to taste 1 teaspoon chopped 2 tablespoons Par marjoram mesan cheese

Cu t the tripe into squares and boil for half an hour in boiling, D w salted water . rain ; then place in a stewpan ith the tomato sauce and allow to simmer gently fo r a further hour ; a quarter

of an hour before serving , sprinkle in the marjoram , and when se dished up , scatter the grated cheese over it, or hand it in a p l arate dish to be added at wil .

R O G N O N I A L L A B O L O G N E S E Kidneys as cooked in B ologna TO SERVE 4

’ ’ 1 e 2 lb . calv s or pigs medium sized kidneys onions

2 ozs . butter 1 pint stock juice of half 1 tablespoon a lemon chopped parsley

S a f n the kin the kidneys, cut in h l , removi g core , then plunge in boiling water to which a little vinegar or lemon jui ce has th D been added and leave for two or ree minutes . rain and cut i s in sl ce . Heat the butter in a stewpan and in it fry the chopped onion until golden brown and add the parsley ; add the chopped an d k kidneys cook for ﬁve or six minutes , sha ing the pan so t n l hat they are cooked on all sides and do not stick ; ﬁ al y, add the stock and a little lemon juice and cook gently for a fu rther 10 m i nutes , but do not allow to boil .

T E S T A D I V I T E L L O A L L A T O S C A N A B rains as cooked in Tuscany TO SERVE 4

’ Calves brains j u ice of half a lemon 1 1 oz . butter carrot 1 small onion 1 stalk celery 1 tablespoon salt and pepper

parsley, chopped

k Wash the brains in salt and water, removing the s in and ﬁbres and allow to remai n in salt and water for half an hour or longer . Wrap in a piece of muslin and tie with string and put on to cook in a stewpan with water to cover and the chopped fo r vegetables , seasoning and lemon juice, and cook a further 15 0 m or 2 minutes , or until the brains are ﬁrm ; remove fro u t the stewpan, ntie , and serve on a hot dish wi h a piquant sauce . B R A I N R I S S O L E S

brain s prepared as fo r TESTA DI VITELLO ALLA TOSCANA beaten egg pepper and salt

fo re o m Having prepared the brains as in the g g recipe , allow to cook and then chop ﬁne and bind together with the beaten egg ; stir over the ﬁre in a sm all pan until the mixtur e thickens but does not boil ; allow to cook and then form into small rissoles , which fry in hot oil or butter after coating with egg

S t s ns . and ﬁne breadcrumbs . erve wi h ectio of lemon

L I N G U A A L L A S A L S A Tongue with same TO SERVE 8

’ calf s t o n u e 1 medium sized _ g

lb . rump steak onion teaspoon chopped 1 teaspoon chopped basil parsley pint stock 1 bay leaf ms slices streaky 4 lb . mushroo bacon salt and pepper

Pu t the tongu e in a stewpan with salted water to cover and

‘ l m l . bring to the boi , then sim er gently for at least i hours

Drain , cool and remove the skin ; puncture it here and there and into the holes introduce slivers of the streaky bacon .

Grease a stewpan and in it place the steak, well beaten with c c a utlet bat , then the hopped onion , basil , parsley, bay leaf o u t u c r and mushrooms small ; on this lay the tong e , and ove with the other half of the steak , well beaten , and over it pour C c the stock . over the saucepan and allow to ook very slowly c for about three hours , adding more stock if ne essary during c i that time , but allowing the broth to redu e almost to noth ng S i by the end o f th e cooking period. erve hot w th a piquant s f c auce , or if preferred, li t on to a dish, allow to ool and serve r co ld with a g een salad . L I N G U A C O N O L I V E Tongue with olives TO SERVE 4

’ l calf s tongue 1 small chopped 1 carrot chopped on ion 1 1 oz . butter teaspoon chopped 1 pint boiling parsley stock 6 large green olives

Pu t c the tongue in a stewpan , cover with old water to which

14 a little salt has been added ; boil for 5 hours , then drain, cool M and skin . elt the butter in a stewpan and in it brown the add chopped vegetables ; the tongue and brown all over , cu t l then add the stock and the olives in sma l pieces , cover and ‘

11 r allow to cook gently for a further } hou s , adding a little more f m im stock ro time to t e if necessary .

Staffed Meats

B R A C I U O L E R I P I E N E Stuﬂed steak TO SERVE 4

cu t about 2 lbs . of veal steak in thin layers and ﬂattened with a cutlet bat

. 2 about 2 ozs of slices of bread , streaky bacon or soaked in milk or lean ham water an d sq u ee 1 or 2 cloves of zed dry c 1 garlic , rushed egg yolk 1 teaspoonful a pin ch of nutmeg chopped parsley pepper and salt

2 ozs . grated Parm esan cheese

° Poultry 69 Game

Chicken

P O L L O I N U M I D O

Chicken stew

TO SERVE 4

1 d S1z ed s me ium 4 lb . mushroom 1 boiling fowl small onion , 1 a st lk celery, cut chopped 1 c small carrot , hopped 1 1 teaspoon chopped oz . butter parsley 4 pint stock or 1 tablespoon tomato water conserve pepper and salt

C lean and prepare the fowl and cut into joints for serving . Heat the butter in a stewpan and in it cook the chopped vegetables a few minutes ; add the chi cken and brown on all ms sides , then add the stock, the mushroo cut small , and the c C tomato conserve diluted with a little sto k or water . over the pan and Simmer gently fo r 2 hours or until the chicken is m tender, adding a little ore stock if necessary during the cooking m ti e .

P O L L O A L L E O L I V E

Chicken with olives TO SERVE 4

In addition to the ingredients for POLLO IN UMIDO in c Six the pre eding recipe , you Will need or eight large green P olives . roceed as in the preceding recipe but do not cut the A fowl into joints , but leave it Whole . fter adding the stock , r m add the olives , stoned and cut in st ips allow the pan to sim er fo r n 2 hours or u til the chicken is tender, then serve on a heated is d h with the sauce served in a separate tureen . P O L L O C O N V E R D U R E

Garnished chicken TO SERVE 4 1 medium sized 2 slices streaky boiling fowl bacon

1 1 . small onion, oz butter chopped small 4 pint stock or 1 level tablespoon water ful ﬂour 1 carrot 1 tablespoon tomato 1 small cabbage ns nu t co erve salt, pepper 2 stalks of celery meg

4 lb . pork sausages

cu v P c Clean the fowl and t in pieces for ser ing . la e the butter c in a stewpan , heat it and in it cook the hopped onion till it is golden brown ; add the pieces of chicken and allow to brown c on all sides ; stir in the ﬂour. and allow to ook a moment or i two before add ng the stock very slowly, stirring so as to prevent lumps forming ; add the salt, pepper and nutmeg , the carrot and celery cut small ; cover an d cook slowly for 2 hours or until c c the hi ken is tender ; twenty minutes before serving, add the cabbage , washed and shredded , and the sausages, and when

se e . the are cooked , serve in a heat d dish

P O L L O A I P I S E L L I Chicken with peas

P r POLLO AI F NG I repa e as for U H , but instead of the mush rooms add 1 pound of fresh green peas weighed after shell ing and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley~to the broth c c after the hi ken is nearly cooked , and when the peas are cooked , serve the whole in a hot dish .

[ 153 ] P O L L O A L L A C R E M A

Chicken with cream TO SERVE 4

1 medium sized ﬂour roasting fowl l tablespoonful 1 small onion or more o f l wineglassful of butter cream or ‘ top m ilk’

P repare the fowl , cut in pieces for serving . Heat the butter and in it brown the onion ; then ﬂou r the pieces o fchicken and brown Add on all sides in the heated butter, salting to taste . the cream and allowto cook to boiling point ; remove from the stove and serve sprinkled with chopped parsley .

P O L L O A I F U N G H I

Chicken with mushrooms TO SERVE 4

1 m m ediu sized 2 ozs . butter boiling chicken 4 pint stock or 1 small onion water 1 m u tablespoon tomato 4 lb . shro oms COHSCI’ VC

P repare the chicken for cooking and cut in pieces . Heat the butter in a stewpan and in it cook t he chopped onion until L c c an d u yellow . ightly ﬂour the hi ken fry in the b tter until brown on all sides ; salt to taste and add the stock and the tom a C to conserve diluted with a little stock . over and cook Slowly for two hours or until the chicken is tender ; lift the chicken from the gravy, and keep hot ; meanwhile , clean the mushrooms cu t add m and small , them to the gravy and cook for ten inutes , c c then return the hi ken to the stewpan, and when it has been in the gravy long enough for it to have come to the bo il , serve in a hot dish .

[ 154 ]

C H I C K E N A S S E R V E D I N R O M E TO SERVE 4

1 m edium sized 2 ozs . ﬂour boiling fowl 4 cloves 4 tablespoons olive a little chopped oil parsley 1 sliced leek 1 pint stock m a pinch o f thy e 4 ozs . macaroni 1 tablespoon tomato pepper and salt COI’ISCI'VC

t a Heat the oil in a large s ewpan, and having prep red the chic ‘ it W ken , add to the stewpan ith the chopped leek, cloves , w a herbs ; allow it to bro n on all sides , and t ke your time over P ff s o . Ad the thi process . our half the oil d stock and the tomato conserve diluted wit h a little stock or water ; cover and allow to ﬁnish cooking at least another hour and a half or two M i hours , until the chicken is tender . eanwh le cook and drain has n n the macaroni , and When the chicken ﬁ ished cooki g, remove it from the sauce and keep hot ; add the m acaroni to the m ix e ni sauce , well and s rve around the chicken as a gar sh .

P U R E E O F C H I C K E N

F r o f i o this , the breast a med um sized chicken should be pound c ed in a mortar with a little sto k, and two slices of bread that mi have been soaked in stock and squeezed dry . When well xed , f m t lf pass through a ood ill , place in a stewpan wi h ha a wine M glassful of arsala , and a similar amount of brown sauce and Al m o f . a pinch mixed spice low to cook gently for twenty inutes, remove from the heat and mix with a beaten egg yolk and the j ui ce of half a lemon ; season with salt and pepper to taste and serve on a dish surrounded by snippets o f hot fried bread .

156 H A R E I N S W E E T S O U R S A U C E

S kin and clean a hare , cut in pieces , wash in a weak solution n F o f Vinegar and water a d ﬂour lightly . ry in butter in which you have browned a chopped onion an d a slice of ham cut in C small squares . over with stock and salt to taste and allow to c c d w a l M l ook slowly in a overe ste p n for about l; hours . eanwhi e mix toget her 2 tablespo ons of sugar wit h half a wineglass full d s ul c of vinegar, a heape tea poonf of grated bitter cho olate , n a tablespoonful of chopped fen el and a few seedless raisins , m ix m i well and add to the hare twenty nutes before serving .

H A R E S T E W

In a heavy stewpan heat an ounce of butter and in it brown c a chopped onion and a crushed love of garlic, a pinch of al c 2 s rosemary, a st k of elery chopped ﬁne , tablespoon olive oil h A and a little chopped am . llow to cook together for several mi nutes , then add your hare cut in pieces , washed and lightly an d T . u ﬂoured , allow it to brown hen slowly add a wineglassf l hi i c of w te Wine , a l ttle tomato onserve diluted with stock or l o f s ms water, half a pint of stock, ha f an ounce dried mu hroo min that have been soaked in water a few utes, a pinch of nut

4 . C a c meg over and llow to ook gently for 1} to 2 hou rs .

P I G E O N S W I T H P E A S

A erso n an d d llow one pigeon per p f when cleane , brown them all over in a stewpan in hot butter to whi ch has been added c Sa li a hopped onion . lt to taste and cover with boi ng stock di C and a little tomato conserve luted with stock or water . ook

14 gently for } hours , then remove the pigeons and keep hot ; hi hi c c meanw le in the broth in w ch they have ooked, pla e l two half a pound of Shel ed green peas to every pigeons , cook m c s c for twenty inutes , then repla e the pigeon , allow to ook mi A l together a few nutes and serve hot . litt e chopped basil w i is a elcome add tion to this dish . P E R N I C I O T T E A L L A M I L A N E S E Young partridges as cooked in Milan

P two luck and draw the birds and cut in , lengthways , and ﬂatten A a slightly with a cutlet bat . llow them to m rinate for an hour s a before cooking , in oil sea oned with salt, pepper , a little p rsley an d T a crushed bay leaf. hen, one half at a time , dip in crisp c an d d A bread rumbs fry on both si es in hot olive oil . rrange on a heated dish an d serve with anchovy sauce (See

B E C C A C C E A L S A L M I

Wo odcock

T c hese tender little birds need plu king very carefully, and the T NOT head , which is left on the body, is skinned . hey are c drawn before ooking . Partly cook the woodco ck in a stewpan with a little oil d t cu t seasone wi h salt , then in two , and remove the inside , c throwing away the stoma h and gall , but using the remainder sal rni to enrich the , or sauce . Having removed the birds from the pan , heat a little butter , and in it brown a chopped onion and the insides removed from the birds and cut in small pieces ; c repla e the birds , adding a very little stock to prevent the S d birds drying ; cover and cook until tender . erve garnishe with snippets of toast spread with the salmi .

[ 158 ]

C O N I G L I O A L L A B O R G H E S E

‘ ’ Rabbit Citizen sty le

Sk . Cu t in a rabbit, removing the entrails the rabbit into joints , w ash and wipe dry , and place in a stewpan with about an B ounce of butter . rown on all sides , then lower the heat and wm e add a wineglassful of white , a chopped onion , a little

chopped parsley, a pinch of thyme , a dash of nutmeg , pepper t f and salt , and ei her quarter of a pound of resh mushrooms d ‘ r ’ cut small , or half an ounce of drie mushrooms evived in cu t C a little broth and small . over the stewpan, and allow to 1 f cook slowly for 5 hours , adding a little stock rom time to time as if it looks through the rabbit is drying out .

C O N I G L I O I N S A L S A P I C C A N T E Rabbit in piq uant sauce

Cu t b the rab it into joints, ﬂour these , and place in a stewpan A in which 2 ounces of butter have been heated . llow the rabbit w to bro n on all sides , then add a stick of celery, chopped ﬁne , cu t a little chopped parsley, a small onion , a carrot small , ms r 4 lb . mushroo cut small , two or th ee cloves , pepper, salt Add o f and a pinch of nutmeg . a wineglassful red wine and an equal quantity of stock ; cover the stewpan and allow to cook fo r c about an hour, then remove the pie es of rabbit ; pass the gravy through a sieve , pressing it through with a wooden spoon ‘ ’ so as not to leave behind anything but the dregs , add a couple of tablespoons of capers and two anchovies that have been ix c pounded in a mortar ; m well , repla e in the stewpan with

o f w few . the pieces rabbit, and allo to boil for a minutes more S erve surrounded by croutons of toast or fried bread . F R I C A S S E E O F R A B B I T

c an d Heat an oun e of butter in a stewpan , in it fry a tablespoon cu t ful of butter until brown , then add a rabbit, into joints an d c cu t ﬂoured, together with a couple of slices of fat ba on an d l c i has d small , a low to ook unt l the rabbit browne say C an d 15 minutes . over with a wineglassful of white wine an c equal quantity of stock, add a hopped onion and a pinch of o is pepper, and co k fairly slowly until the liquid reduced R 0 by half and the rabbit is tender . emove the rabbit on to d s an a hot i h , remove the p from the ﬁre and into the sauce ks t wo c mix the beaten yol of eggs and the jui e of half a lemon . M n ix well a d pour over the rabbit before serving .

C O N I G L I O I N S A L S A P I C C A N T E Rabbit in piquant sauce

P c n c s repare the rabbit by skinning, leani g, cutting into pie e , i P wash ng and wiping dry with a cloth . lace in a stewpan with 4 s ounce ofbutter, after having ﬂoured it lightly ; allow to brown c for about quarter ofan hour , then add a couple ofsticks of elery u c cut in thin slices , a heaped teaspoonf l of hopped fresh parsley, z ni d ca a medium si ed o on chopped ﬁnely, a medium size rrot cu t s in thin Slices , quarter of a pound of fresh mu hrooms , r Add th ee cloves , salt to taste and a pinch of nutmeg . a wine

glassful of red Wine and an equal quantity of hot stock, cover the stewpan and allow to cook for an hour or unt il the rabbit R is tender . emove the rabbit and keep warm ; pour the broth a two through a food mill into another stewp n , add to it ancho two vies cut in pieces and tablespoons of capers, heat together w for a few minutes , return the rabbit to the broth and allo to cook together for a few minutes longer ; serve on a heated d ish surrounded by snippets of toast .

[ 15 1 ] Vegetables

I here vegetables are concerned , the talian cook is con siderably more imaginative than her English counter i ‘ part, and one is unl kely to be confronted with plain ’ boiled potatoes, or with watery vegetable marrow served with a thi n white sauce ; try some o f these suggestions fo r livenin g up the vegetable dishes .

[ 162 ]

C A R C I O F I I N U M I D O C O N P I S E L L I Artichokes stewed with peas TO SERVE 4

12 globe artichokes 1 small onion f es lb . Shelled r h chopped parsley e le peas , weigh d juice of half a after shellin g mon 3 egg yolks pint stock or 1 tablespoon olive oil water

P repare the artichokes ; meanwhile, chop the onion and fry lightly in the oil, together with the parsley ; add the artichokes , s quartered , the pea and the stock together with pepper and C salt . ook together for half an hour, stirring from time to time so that the vegetables do not stick to the bottom of the pan ; the the at end of cooking time , remove from the heat and stir e o f in the b aten yolks eggs and the lemon juice and serve hot .

C A R C I O F I A L L A G I U D A I C A Jewish Artichokes TO SERVE 4

P f s . W repare a dozen artichokes, leaving a airly long tem hile ‘ ’ l they are soaking, prepare a battuto with a ittle chopped

parsley, a little chopped mint, a crushed clove of garlic, and place a little o f this in the middle of each artichoke after drain In o f ing the vegetable . a deep pan heat a cupful olive oil very and s a s t hot in thi place the rtichokes up ide down, pressing hem w r C do n so that the leaves sp ead out . ook over a hot ﬂame for s ten minutes and serve with section of lemon .

[ 164 ] A S P A R A G I A L L ’ O L I O Asparagus with oil

R n s emove the hard end of the stalks of a bu dle of asparagu , ‘ ’ and remove the scales that are to be found along the stalks ; tie in smaller bundles wit h ﬁne string and bo il gent ly in salted R r fo r . water about twenty minutes emove f om the water, cut the string and remove and serve with either melted butter or olive oil .

’ A S P A R A G I A L L A M I L A N E S E Asparagus Milanese Style

c r us Having prepared and ooked your bundle of aspa ag , drain , la t u m o f an and y in a ﬁreproof dish , wi h a l p butter, pepper d salt and place in a hot oven for a few moments ; j u st before o P r serving, sprinkle with two tablesp ons of grated a mesan

c . heese , and serve as soon as this starts to melt

F A G I O L I N I A L B U R R O

B uttered French B eans TO SERVE 4

1 F r lb . young rench 2 tablespo ons g ated beans Parm esan

2 o zs . butter pepper and salt

To t l n s p and tail the beans , and cook hem in boi i g alted water fo r t t i r c s ﬁ wen y m nutes ; d ain, and pla e in a grea ed reproof s dish with the butter, pepper and salt and grated chee e , and c S pla e in a moderate oven until the cheese starts to melt . erve i immed ately .

[ 165 ] F A G I O L I N I I N F R I C A S S E A Fricassee of French B eans TO SERVE 4

F ns . 1 lb . rench bea 2 ozs butter 1 tablespoonfu l salt and pepper 1 2 chopped parsley or egg yolks , 1 clove garlic , beaten lightly crushed with a teaspoon j u ice of half a lemon of cold water 1 tablespoonfu l per yolk grated Parm esan

Prepare the beans and cook in boiling salted water fo r ﬁfteen m nu t i tes , then drain, and place in a s ewpan with the parsley, c fo r f butter, garlic and salt ; allow to ook gently a urther ten m u m r e in tes , re ove f om the heat and stir in the beaten gg yolks , lem on juice an d grated cheese and serve im m ediately .

F A G I O L I N I A L L A R O M A N A

French beans Roman s le , ty TO SERVE 4

u F 1 . 1 lb . yo ng rench oz butter a an d beans pepper, s lt 1 m edium onion nutmeg chopped sm all 2 anchovies cu t small

P f m nu repare the beans and boil in salted water for ﬁ teen i tes ,

o f . P c saving a little the co oking water, and drain la e in a stew ‘ ’ in o f the pan which you have prepared a battuto butter, ni s o o n , sea onings and chopped anchovies , together with a little of the water in which the beans were cooked ; cook gently for ten in minutes , during which time the liquid will have reduced

a f m . qu ntity, remove ro the ﬁre and serve

[ 166 ]

F AV E A L G U N C I A L E

B road B eans with bacon

TO SERVE 4

n c 2 lbs . broad bea s , 2 sli es of streaky and if you wish bacon

really to enj oy 1 oz . butter 1 z them , gather medium si ed them while they onion are still small and tender

Heat the butter in a stewpan , in it cook the chopped onion t un il it is a golden yellow colour, add the bacon cut in dice , thi c l c s and when s is ooked, add the shel ed un ooked bean , and cook together for a further ﬁve m inutes ; add water almost to cover ; place lid on stewpan and simmer gently for A dd . minutes . pepper and salt to taste

P I S E L L I A L P R O S C I U T T O

Green Peas with Ham TO SERVE 4

2 lbs . peas lb . ham cut in 1 small onion dice 1 oz . butter

M c elt the butter in a stewpan , cook the hopped onion till a golden yellow ; add the diced ham and cook for a further n o t ﬁve minutes , then add the peas, shelled , washed but c c ooked ; add sufﬁcient water not quite to cover, and ook gently for quarter of an hour with the lid on the stewpan .

[ 168 ] P I S E L L I A L L A P A R I G I N A

Peas Paris st le , y TO SERVE 4

A F c c I ren h recipe , but one whi h ﬁnds its way into talian I c so c . ookery books and on to talian tables , well worth in luding

2 lbs . peas 2 round lettuce 4 spring onions 2 teaspoons castor salt and peppe r sugar 1 o z . butter

S - k hell the peas , and retain four or ﬁve of the best loo ing shells . cu t Wash the lettuce and in four lengthways, then lift it out of the water and place it dripping wet in a stewp an in which you have already warmed the butter, add the peas and the s an d pea pods you have kept aside , the onion pepper and salt ; f - ﬁve m cover and allow to cook slowly for orty inutes , shaking a c the pan from time to time to prevent the veget bles sti king . T beco m ake a look from time to time, and if the peas look like o f F ing dry, add a teaspoonful or two warm water . ive minutes before serving , add the sugar and shake the pan to mix well .

Aubergines

These lus ciou s - looking Vegetables make delicious eatin g cooked s in variou ways .

M E L A N Z A N E A L L A G E N O V E S E Aubergine Genoese style TO SERVE 4

3 or 4 medium 1 tablespoon olive Sized aubergines oil 1 chopped onion 2 or 3 ripe pepper and salt tomatoes

[ 169 ] Heat the oil and in it cook the chopped onion until it is golden cu t - brown ; add the aubergines, in half inch slices crossways fo r and cook ﬁve minutes , then add the tomatoes , peeled and cut in pieces , and cook together until the egg plant 18 tender ; remove from the ﬁre and stir in two lightly beaten eggs ; m ix well and serve immediately .

M E L A N Z A N E A L L A N A P O L I T A N A

Auber ine ea olitan s le g , N p ty TO SERVE 4

3 or 4 medium pepper and salt z si ed aubergines 2 ozs . grated Bel P P lb . aese, armesan unless you are pint or rather I in taly, in which more tomato case u se .an equal sauce quantity o f Mozzarella

Fo r f- ss this dish peel the aubergines, cut in hal inch slices cro an d fo r an u ways , sprinkle with salt, cover leave ho r or so , then fr drain , flour lightly and y gently in hot olive oil, then drain on blotting paper to remove the surplu s oil . Grease or oil a so u fflé dish or fireproof casserole and in it Bel P put alternate layers of aubergines , aese cheese and tomato sauce until all is used up ; sprinkle with the grated Parmesan r - and dot with butter . Bake in a moderate oven fo twenty fi ve m inutes .

M E L A N Z A N E R I P I E N E Stuﬁ ed aubergine TO SERVE 4

2 large aubergines 2 slices of bread , 1 small onion soaked in milk chopped and squeezed dry h 2 Slices of am 4 lb . chopped diced mu shroom s 1 oz . butter pepper and salt [ 170 ]

P A T A T E I N S T U F A T O ' Sauteed po tatoes TO SERVE 4

4 large potatoes a Slice of fat roast 2 tablespoons butter beef 1 tablespoonful a teaspoonful o f tomato conserve chopped rosemary

add f an Heat the butter in a stewpan, the bee cut in dice d T i fry till brown . hen add the potatoes peeled and cut in th n c sli es, and the rosemary, pepper and salt, and ﬁnally the tomato conserve thinned with a little water ; cook over moderate heat

- for three quarters of an hour, stirring now and again and adding r a little boiling water if the dish appears to be d ying .

P O T A T O F R I T T E R S

1 2 lb . potatoes 2 0 5 . butter 2 whole eggs and a few chopped 2 extra yolks pistachio or pine nuts

Cook the potatoes and mash in a pestle and mortar or pass c through a ricer, adding the butter, beaten eggs and hopped F - nuts . orm into small rissoles , dip in egg white and fry in hot D olive oil . rain and serve very hot .

P A T A T E A R R O S T O B aked potatoes TO SERVE 4

Allow one good - sized potato per person ; peel and place in c a baking dish with an oun e or more of butter, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour or until they are nicely browned but not burnt ; baste from time to time with the butter and sprin kle lightly with salt . P A T A T E C O N S A L S A D I P O M I D O R O

Potatoes with tomato sauce TO SERVE 4

4 large potatoes 454 pint tomato 1 medium sized sauce 1 onion , chopped tablespoon oil

Heat the oil and in it cook the chopped onion till a golden c brown ; add the potatoes , peeled and cut in sli es , simmer for m add c a few inutes, then the tomato sau e , together with a little water an d cook gently till the potatoes are tender and

the liquid has reduced and thickened about 40 minutes .

P A T A T E A L B U R R O B uttered potatoes TO SERVE 4

4 large potatoes 3 tablespoons stock 1 ChO z tablespo on p 2 o s . butter ped parsley

P w eel the potatoes and cut in slices , and place in a ste pan with the stock and the parsley and cook over moderate heat until s the potatoe are cooked, adding a little water from time to time if they appear to be drying up ; ﬁve m inutes before serving Mix add the butter . well together and serve hot .

T O M A T O E S C O O K E D W I T H O N I O N S TO SERVE 4 ‘

1 1 large tin tomatoes oz . butter salt and pepper 3 medium siz ed 1 tablespo on castor o nions sugar 1 cupful breadcru mbs [ 173 ] D s rain the tomatoe , saving the liq uid to add to the stock pot . S nk P pri le the tomatoes with salt, pepper and sugar . eel and s n a lice the o ions , and in a buttered ﬁreproof dish rrange o f e hi alternate layers tomato s , onions and breadcrumbs , ﬁnis ng Do t with a layer of breadcrumbs . with butter and bake in

a moderate oven for half an hour .

P O M I D O R I A L L A C A S A L I N G A

Tomatoes housew e s le , if ty TO SERVE 4

1 ﬁ rm 1 lb . clove garlic, tomatoes cru shed a pinch o f oregano 1 tablespoon salt and pepper chopped parsley 1 tablespoon olive 1 tablespoon oil grated Parm esan

m n s a Halve the to atoes , removi g the seed ; place in a gre sed f m ﬁreproo dish, Sprinkling with a ixture of salt, pepper, ore na e gano , garlic and parsley, and ﬁ lly with the grated ch ese an d o il ; bake in m oderate oven twenty m inu tes .

C A R O T E A L B U R R O

B uttered carrots f TO SERVE 4

1 u o f in lb . yo ng a pinch c c was arrots, hed namon and scraped and salt and pepper cut in slices 1 tablespoonfu l 1 oz . butter ﬂour 3 tablespoons stock juice of half a lemon

' B the 1 oil carrots in salted wate for quarter of an hour, drain , and f s the place m a buttered fireproo di h with butter, pepper u and salt, stir in the flo r and gently add the stock , and allow to cook m a moderate oven or on top of the stove fo r ten m in u t l u n m n es ; final y, five min tes before serving, add the ci na o and em ui l on j ce.

f the m k s water rom the sprouts , and stir until ixture thic en . Mix e t c the ch stnuts and sprouts toge her, cover with this sau e , and place in a warm oven until heated through .

B R O C C O L I S T R A S C I C A T I B rocco li with salt pork

Prepare the broccoli and cook in boilin g salted water for mi P fifteen nutes ; drain . lace in a stewpan with a little salt pork cu t in dice and cook over a very slow fire for half an hour o until the fat has been absorbed by the broccoli . N further salting will be necessary, as there will be sufficient salt in the pork .

C AV O L F I O R E A L L A S I C I L I A N A Cauliflower Sicilian style

C u fo r f m n s i ook your ca liflower fi teen i ute in bo ling, slightly w a an d in e r s salted ater, dr in , place a greas d fi eproof di h two m and a fo r anchovies chopped small, place in oderate oven b ke n w o il f m t im fifteen minutes, basti g ith a little rom ti e to e ; finally add thr ee tablespo ons o f tomato sauce and a few capers m S and allow to cook a few inutes longer before serving . end to the table in the dish in which it has been cooked .

C AV O L F I O R E A L L A L I O N E S E Cauliﬂower with meat sauce TO SERVE 4

l good -sized }4 pint meat sauce ‘ ’ cau liﬂower (See SAUCES )

Cook the cau liﬂower for ten m inutes only in boilin g salted l n fo r few s water, then drain and place cold water a minute ; k m c t drain again and brea into s all pie es , and place m a s ewpan with the meat sauce and allow to coo k a fu rther twenty minutes d over moderate heat, a ding a little stock or water if it appears to be getting too dry . P U R E E O F C H E S T N U T S TO S ERVE 6

1 lb . of chestnuts a little warm milk from which outer salt and pepper

‘ 1 o z and inner skins . butter have been re moved

B i d oil the chestnuts in salted water unt l tender, then rain , and mas h with just enough warm mil k to moisten them ; add butter

S n . and pepper and salt to taste . erve i stead of mashed potatoes

M A R R O W S

I c o f Whenever am fa ed with a helping boiled marrow, served En hi I k in the glish fas on , with white sauce, thin fondly of the I more enterprising talian ways of dealing with this vegetable . To our credit be it said that from the colossal ripe marrows of t he late season we English can produce marrow pickle an d marrow preserve that would bear comparison with any sim ilar C d c ontinental elica ies , but what we do with early marrow is , to say the least , a triﬂe uninteresting . In the fruit an d vegetables shops during the summer the tiny ‘ ’ o z cc imp rted u hini are to be seen , and may be bought at c is s E luxury pri es , but there no rea on why our nglish marrows should not be harvested whil e they are still young and tender ‘ ’ an d c c d used in recipes for which zuc hi ni have been pres ribe . Take for example some o f the foll owing

Z U C C H I N E F R I T T I

Fried small marrows

TO SERVE 4

d cchi m E You need either a poun ofzu ne , or a s all nglish marrow Cu . t ths of equal weight into rounds about g of an inch thick, an d P i o f . spread on a plate, cover with a spr nkling salt lace an fo r inverted plate over them and leave an hour, by the end o f c D whi h time the liquid will have come out of them . rain thor h oughly, then ﬂour them and fry t em in hot olive oil , allowing D fo r c . t about a minute ea h side rain hem well before serving, so as to remove surplus oil, and serve with sections of lemon .

S T U F F E D M A R R O W TO SERVE 4

1 lb . small pepper and salt marrows and a pinch o f rose chopped ham [mary mixed well breadcrumbs together

S plit the marrows in two lengthways , and remove the seeds . F u ill the hollows with the st fﬁng , put the two halves of the a ain an d c marrows together g , tie with white otton to keep the stufﬁng in . Heat a little butter in a stewpan , add the marrows , brown them lightly, then reduce the heat and cover the pan , and cook for a further twenty minutes .

S T E W E D S M A L L M A R R O W S TO SERVE 4

1 3 - lb . small marrows good sized onions

3 tablespoons olive 1} pint water oil pepper and salt to taste

Heat the oil and in it cook the chopped onion until it is golden Add . r brown the mar ows , unpeeled if you have the actual z ucchine or supposing you are using English marrows these too if may be unpeeled provided they are quite small , but you are l - using the larger variety, then peel and cut into inch slices ; add water and seasoning ; cover the pan and cook slowly fo r half an hour .

[ 173 ]

S P I N A C I A L L A P A R M I G I A N A Spinach with Parmesan cheese TO SERVE 4

1 lb . spinach butter

salt, pepper and 2 tablespoons grated nu tmeg Parmesan

C an d c ook the spinach as directed , when ooked drain well , then place in a stewpan with about two ounces of butter, salt, A pepper and a pinch of nutmeg . llow the butter to melt , then stir in the grated cheese and serve hot .

S P I N A C I A L L A P I E M O N T E S E TO SERVE 4

1 6 8 lb . spinach or anchovies 1 o z t . but er or cut small 1 tablespoonful half a clove of

olive oil garlic , crushed salt and pepper to taste

C w ook the spinach as directed and drain ell . Heat the butter in c a pan, add the garlic and ook till yellow, add the spinach , a e m ix nchovies and p pper and salt to taste , well together , and serve decorated with triangles of thin toast . Salads

he salad most commonl y met with in Italy is the fresh u green salad , liberally do sed with good olive oil and bu t lemon juice , there are a fair number of other salads to be met with when one spends a longer time in the country, few and here are a suggestions . O N I O N S A L A D

A two llow one large or medium sized onions per person . E u ither bake the onions in the oven , or boil them ntil they A an d i are cooked but not mushy . llow to cool when cold , sl ce f l d o them airly thin y, spread in layers on a ﬂat ish and seas n c with olive oil, lemon jui e and pepper and salt .

P L A I N S A L A D

Co s B a or atavian lettuce , washed well and hung in a sal d drain er until crisp , is excellent by itself served with a plain oil and mi ‘ DRESSING FOR GREE . See N Vinegar dressing, xed well (

S A L A D W I T H H A R D B O I L E D E G G

A llow one hard boiled egg per person, cut in two lengthways and arrange on top o f a bed o f lettuce dressed as previously suggested with an oil and vinegar dressing ; or if liked, serve i o f w ind vidual plates dressed lettuce, with egg, cut length ays decorating each portion .

With all green salads , remember not to add the dressing until t he last possible moment before serving, and remember, too , that torn lettuce is preferable to lettuce cu t with knife or scis sors .

C U C U M B E R S A L A D

Slice thinl y an unpeeled cucumber ; spread the slices in a ﬂat plate , sprinkle with salt, cover with another plate and leave D fo r . about two hours rain, and squeeze moisture out of the z S slices by placing in a cloth and squee ing in the hands . eason with oil , wine Vinegar (or lemon juice) , pepper and salt to taste , and , for additional enjoyment, a little castor sugar .

weets met with on vacation in Italy seem to be of 4 two -ﬁlled kinds ; either the welcome , well dish of fruits in ‘ ’ - season, or the out size very rich , very creamy layer cake , but a longer stay discloses other, more imaginative sweets , and a selection of these is given in the following pages . Z A B A G L I O N E o r Z A B A I O N E

I - r When talking of sweets in the talian menu, this airy fai y c in d reﬁnement of egg pun h is the one that springs ﬁrst to the m , w r c an d it is worth while kno ing how to make it to pe fe tion . Fo r 2 2 each consumer allow egg yolks , tablespoons castor an d 2 M sugar , tablespoons of arsala , or failingthis , of good V S . herry anilla may be added , if liked , but for my taste the dish is better without it . Beat together the egg yolks and sugar until they are pale and P c add M . c reamy, then slowly the arsala la e the mixture over d c hot water in a ouble boiler, and stir slowly until it thi kens ,

c c . S taking are not to over ook it, otherwise it will curdle erve d T immediately in warme sherbet glasses . here is a school of ‘ ’ t c c I thought hat di tates serve hot or old , but this to most talian z palates is heresy serve your abaione hot .

Fritters

S Off m a tarting with a frying batter as a basis , delicious fritters y be made of the various fruits as they come into season .

S T A N D A R D F R Y I N G B A T T E R

4 z 3 o s . plain ﬂour tablespoons olive a quarter of a pint oil or rather more of a pinch of salt warm wat er 1 lightly beaten egg white

S c an d ieve the ﬂour into a basin , make a well in the entre into an d a dd add this pour the oil ; mix well , the salt , then slowly the c a c o f c water , stirring onst ntly until the onsistency thick ream

d . A 2 is obtaine llow to stand for hours or thereabouts , then stir hi c ﬁs h in the lightly beaten egg w te , and use as a oating for d th l or for fruits as suggeste in e fol owing pages . A P P L E F R I T T E R S

Fo r B these use ramleys or similar large cooking apples , allowing P one per person . eel the apples , and remove the core with a

‘ co rer then c t he metal , sli e apples transversely in slices about

- three eighths of an inch in thickness , dip in batter, and fry in nk hot oil ; drain , spri le with castor sugar and serve very hot . An improvement is to substitute fo r half the water of the

an . batter, equal amount of white wine A reﬁnement of these fritters also is to be obtained by im m ers ing the apples , once they are peeled and cored , but before ru m hi c slicing them , in to w ch sugar and a pin h o f cinn amon fo r has been added , allowing them to remain two or three hours , turning them frequently so as to impregnate the fruit u f c with the rum , but in this case , the water batter is s ﬁ iently rich without the addition of white wine .

P E A R F R I T T E R S

o f Using the same method , but instead slicing the fruit, peel n them, quarter them and core them before dippi g in batter , hard cooking pears make delicious fritters .

A P R I C O T F R I T T E R S

- Fo r the . Cu t two these apricots should not be over ripe in , removing the stones ; place in a vessel deep enough to hold them r when sprinkled with sugar ; leave for several hours , or even fo rem o vean d d f a whole day , then rain , dip in rying batter and fr y in hot oil , drain and serve , hot sprinkled with castor sugar . A o f fo r lternatively, instead covering with sugar and leaving w some hours, the apricots may be covered with rum , to hich a Of f has been added sug r and a pinch cinnamon , le t for two or

t u . hree ho rs , then drained , dipped in batter and fried

[ 186 ]

e o lks from the heat, cool slightly and add the beaten gg y and f later the whites beaten sti ﬂy, the citron cut small and the rai Mix c f ns . si together well , and when ool, orm into little balls the size o f a walnut ; dip in beaten egg white and then in bread crum bs an d fry quickly in deep oil until a golden brown ; drain for a moment or two on blotting paper to drain o ff any surplus oil , and serve hot , sprinkled liberally with castor sugar .

C H E S T N U T F R I T T E R S

To u f half a po nd of chestnut ﬂour , add su ﬁcient water to make c a thick paste ; add a pin h of salt , a few seedless raisins , and a few chopped pistachio nuts ; mix together well and drop in D ai f . spoon uls into deep hot oil , cooking till golden brown r n and

S . serve hot, prinkled with castor sugar

F R I T T E L L E A L L A F I O R E N T I N A

To half a pound of fine flou r add sufficient water to make o f l o f a thick paste ; add a pinch salt, the yo k an egg, a little Mix grated lemon rind and a few seedless raisins . well and drop in spoonfu ls into deep hot Oil and fry until golden brown ; D rain and serve hot . S W E E T F R I T T E R S

2 egg yolks 2 ozs . ﬂour 1 pint cream a little ﬁnely 2 tablespoons sugar chopped candied citron

B l eat together the egg yo ks , cream and sugar until well mixed , an d d o n blend in the ﬂour place in a ouble boiler, co ki g till c fu thi k and being care l not to allow it to boil , otherwise the d If c s be egg yolks will cur le . the ream does not eem to thick l d enough , a little semo ina may be a ded towards the end of in S . the cooking time . tir the citron Pour on to a ﬂat plate that has been lightly oiled or greased o with butter ; allow to cool , cut in pieces ab ut two inches di u fr square ; p in white of egg and then in breadcr mbs , y in d butter till golden brown , serve hot , sprinkle with sugar .

M O N T B L A N C THIS SHOULD SERVE 4

I l 4 c 1 lb . ta ian chestnuts } lb . astor sugar 4 pint double cream

Cu t n o an d a slit in the chest uts at the p inted end, place them d m mi e a ozen at a ti e in a very hot oven for ten nut s , after c which they will peel easily . When all are peeled , pla e in boiling water and allow to simmer for an hour or until they are tender . S s d train, and mash the nut , ad ing the sugar and a pinch of P c salt . ass them then through a potato ri er, allowing them to m The pile up in pyra id form on a dish . less you touch them with e o f your hands the b tter, otherwise the light appearance the

ﬁnished dish is apt to be Spo iled . ﬂavo u rin l Whip the cream , g it if you like with a ittle good l an d f u iqueur , pile it lightly on the top of the mound O chestn ts , t w u a ra her like sno on a mo nt in top .

[ 189 ] M C H A R L O T T E D I E L E , P E R E O P E S C H E

A le ear o r each charlotte pp , p p TO SERVE 6

2 . 1 d lbs cooking apples , tablespoon col pears or peaches 4 water t 1 hat are not over oz . butter ripe 1 wineglassful white grated rind of a Wine lemon thin slices o f bread 1 wineglassful rum and butter with 4 c u ozs . brown sugar r sts removed Prepare the fruit by peeling and coring (or in the case of pea c hes , removing the stones) , put them in a stewpan with the the ' whit e sugar , the water and rind and cook until tender ; when redu ced ' t o the fruit is a pulp , add the butter and the grated c lemon rind , and if not suffi iently sweet add a little more sugar . M so u fflé eanwhile , grease a mould , and line it entirely with - P f well buttered slices of thin bread . our in the ruit pulp , and over the top place a layer of thinly sliced and buttered bread . S nk B pri le with sugar . ake in a moderate oven for half an hour, f and just be ore serving, pour over the rum and light , so that the m T dish is carried fla ing to the table . his final touch may be omitted if preferred .

rat aﬁ a 1 lb . biscuits pint milk 2 whole eggs and 1 tablespoonful 2 extra yolk castor sugar grated rind of half a tablespoonful each a lemon of sultanas and of a few glacé cherries chopped citron and a little shred ded angelica

G so u fflé rease your dish with butter, and line the sides with S i cu t stale avoy biscu ts or failing these , stale sponge cakes in t hin slices lengthways ; arrange at the bottom of the mould d c a layer of the sultanas , mixed with the choppe citron, herries rat afi as and angelica, and on this place the broken small and any trimmings left over from the Savoy biscuits or Sponge cakes . B eat together the eggs , extra yolks and sugar , and when the m sugar is dissolved , beat in the ilk slowly, and strain into the mould . You may now either cover with buttered paper and steam gently for an hour, or place in a not too fierce oven and bake a for a simil r length of time . S erve with whipped cream , or with a little apricot jam warmed .

C R E M A D I B A G N O M A R I A

Rich steamed custard

TO SERVE 6

4 3 2 eggs , plus tablespoonsful extra egg yolks castor sugar 5 pint m ilk grated rind o f half butter for greasing a lemon alterna t ivel dish y, a teaspoon of vanilla

G m rate the lemon rind into the ilk, or alternatively add the r B vanilla and allow it to stand fo half an hour . reak the eggs and extra yolks into a basin, and beat together with the sugar, then add the milk gradually . When thoroughly mixed , pass all through a fine Sieve , removing the froth that has formed in P c so u fflé the beating . la e the liq u id in a greased dish and place hi - t s in a double boiler, or if one is not available , place it on an d c i inverte sandwi h cake tin, in a saucepan of boil ng water, with the water reaching to within 14inches from the top of the fl so u f é d . C outside of the ish ook on top of the stove , keeping the If water just under boiling point for about an hour . you propose

eating this dish hot , allow to stand for about ten minutes after A d c v . it has ﬁnishe ooking, before ser ing lternatively it may be d c allowed to become cold , when it makes a eli ious cold sweet .

C R O S T I N I A L L’ A N A N A S S O Pineapple toast TO SERVE 4

This is a dish worth trying when South African pineapples c are available at reasonable pri es . l or 2 of these 12 thin slices of small pineapples bread with the 4 z s c o . butter rusts removed , a few teaspoonsfu l of and cu t in two maraschino or lengthways kirsch a little apricot jam 4 ozs . sugar 4 wineglassful of water

Heat the butter in a heavy pan and in it fry the bread very n lightly, not so much brow ing it as allowing it to absorb the P cu t butter . reviously, peel the pineapples and into as many c slices as there are pie es of bread , lay these m a plate , sprinkle lightly with sugar an d with the liqueur and allow it to stay for ‘ ’ two d n d or three hours . When the pineapple has marinate a the c ﬁ d c bread is ooked , arrange in a ﬂat reproof ish , with a pie e of c c pineapple on ea h pie e of bread . C o an d o k the sugar with the water until it begins to colour, to add d c this the liqui in whi h the pineapple has marinated , to c l gether with the apri ot jam ; boi together for a few minutes, then pass through a sieve and serve boiling hot over the ‘ ’ c rostini .

[ 193 ] M E R I N G U E S

‘ ’ Since so many o f the foregoing recipes call for extra yolks a recipe for meringu es is useful for employing the whites left

over . L ight the oven before starting to make the meringues , and it 50 should be a very slow oven (2 degrees at most) .

4 egg White s 1 cup castor sugar o f if a pinch salt 4 teaspoon vanilla , liked

B eat the egg whites with a beater, together with the pinch of salt until they are stiff and dry ; now add half the sugar a little at a time beating thoroughly after each addition ; beat in the vanilla ; the balance of the sugar should be folded in with a Spa

tula or fork . Meanwhile run some sheets of brown paper under the cold ‘ ’ D water tap and use as linings for ﬂat cookie tins . rop the egg m ixture by large spoonfuls on to the paper , place them in the c 45 60 oven and allow to ook for to minutes, or until they will The lift easily from the paper . slow cooking is essential , the x trick being to dry out the mi ture rather than to cook it . 1 53 When cooled , serve ﬁlled with ice cream , whipped cream, or any sweetened fruit .

P A S T I C C I O D I F R U T T A Fruit flan

P o f m repare two pounds ixed fruit in season , apples , apricots ,

w an with 4 . et c . an d c st e plums , pears , place to ook in a p ozs gran u lat ed A sugar and a wineglassful of white wine . few soaked and stoned prunes make a welcome addition to the mixture . c When the fruit is tender, add a little hopped candied citron , a couple of tablespoons of rum and a pinch of powdered cin namon . Meanwhile line ﬂan tins with fairly rich pastry ; pou r in the f ruit and bake in a hot oven until the pastry is cooked . S erve hot or cold , with whipped cream .

P I Z Z A

A book of Italian cookery would be incomplete wit hout one or two recipes for this Neapolitan speciality try it if you like ; i f c speak ng for mysel , the mention of pizza will always re all r N what ar ived at my table in aples one evening when, fancying ‘ ’ I z I few something not too heavy , ordered piz a . waited a an d was c d moments then onfronted with an outsize inner plate , on which reposed something that looked rather like King Henry the Eighth ’ s best hat made of pastry that was solid rather than an d c light , ﬁlled with a mixture of tomatoes and an hovies that, ’ to say the least, was rich , and alarmingly salty. However , if it s ’ z z c pi a you fan y, here s how it is made .

P I Z Z A A L L A C A M P O F R A N C O TO SERVE 8

1 o 4 lb . plain ﬂour teasp on chopped 5 eggs basil ’ half tablespoon 4 oz . brewers yeast Bel P sugar 4 lb . aese cheese 1 4 lb . ham lb . tomatoes 3 tablespoons grated 1 tablespoon olive Parmesan oil 5 ozs . butter pepper

P ile the flour on to your pastry board or cooking table , make a hollow in it and in this put the butter, two eggs , a pinch of salt il and the yeas t diluted with a little water or m k . Work the flour with the hands until the ingredients are absorbed , then blend in c t e the next two eggs , and work the dough until it is elasti to h touch ; then add the sugar ; work the dough a little more ; then c C c pla e in a warmed basin . over with a loth and leave in a fairly c c warm place for a ouple of hours , by whi h time it should have doubled in size . M fi c eanwhile prepare the lling ; slice the heese , and the ham ; an d c peel the tomatoes remove the seeds , and ook very quickly in oil so that they do not become mushy but retain their fi rm ness . d When the dough has risen, flour your pastry board ; divi e th e d c an d ough in two pie es , one slightly larger than the other c d two c . roll out into ir les With the larger one , line a grease pie r c plate or flan tin, and on it lay fi st of all a layer of the heese , S t then a layer of the cooked tomatoes . eason wi h salt and pepper an d a little basil , and on this place a layer of strips of ham ; an d ni o ff continue in this way till the filling is all used up , fi sh d P No w f with a layer of the grate armesan . beat the fi th egg, us ai d c and with a br h p nt the edges of the ough , and over it pla e l c the sma ler cir le of dough , pressing the edges together so that c c they remain losed ; leave it to rise again in a warm pla e , for c a about an hour, then paint the top with the balan e of the be ten

an d c . egg, ook for twenty to twenty ﬁve minutes in a hot oven

Eat hot .

[ 197 ] Sauces

he preparation of a sauce is a ritual in Italy ; it is not unusual for an Italian housewife to spend hours in loving preparation of a truly rich and enjoyable sauce to be ‘ ’ l eaten over pasta , and having tasted the resu ts of some of the dm the hours of loving labour, one has to a it time has been well spent .

[ 198 ]

Mu s h r o o m Sa u ce

B k While your échamel sauce is coo ing , wash and chop ﬁnely l 4 b. mushrooms and cook gently for ten minutes in hot olive B oil before adding to the échamel .

Sh r im p Sa u ce

To B a pint of échamel sauce add half a pint of shrimps , shelled and chopped , and serve when heated through . A good sauce with ﬁsh .

B R O W N S A U C E

1 small onion 3 tablespoons olive chopped ﬁnely oil 2 tablespoons freshly grou nd chopped parsley black pepper 1 1 pint beef stock teaspoon oregano , 4 tablespoons ﬂour or , failing this, 1 bay leaf 4 teaspoon thyme

r Heat oil in heavy pan, brown onion in this , with pa sley, and stir in ﬂour . When brown and blended add slowly your beef t stock ; allow to boil for two or hree minutes, and add season m s g .

V A R I A T I O N S O F B R O W N S A U C E

Mu s hr o o m Sa u ce

To as half a pint of brown sauce made above , add quarter of a pound of mushrooms that have been washed , chopped ﬁnely D and cooked for ﬁve minutes in hot olive oil . elicious with a ste k and baked meats .

[ 200 ] Whit e Win e Sa u ce

To half a pint of brown sauce add a quarter of a pint of white an d d wine ; heat together to boiling point serve imme iately .

A good sauce with baked meat .

P A R S L E Y B U T T E R

1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon ﬁnely 1 teaspoon lemon minced parsley juice pinch salt

S c l teak is greatly enhan ed with ittle dabs of this simple sauce . C an d ream butter blend in remaining ingredients , mixing well and allowing to become very cold before serving at table

with steak .

Va r ia t i o n s o f Pa r s l e y B u t t e r

Ins Of c tead a tablespoon of parsley, try the ombination of n c an d c a teaspoo ful ea h of mint , parsley sweet basil , hopped

ﬁnely, or alternatively, two teaspoons parsley to one of mint, t wo or teaspoons parsley to one of basil .

A L M O N D S A U C E

z s c 2 tablespoons butter 2 o . blan hed juice of two lemons chopped almonds

B c rown butter slightly, and slowly add hopped almonds and c S lemon jui e . erve hot or cold with ﬁsh .

[ 20 1 ] ‘ S O F F R I T T O ’ O R ‘ B A T T U T O ’

This is the name given to the foundation from which stews and a t soups are often st r ed ; in its simplest form it consists of hot oil , has butter or dripping , in which been browned a chopped ni c can o on or a love of garlic crushed , but it be elaborated o f by the addition chopped carrot, parsley and celery, but all very ﬁnely chopped and browned before the addition of the f meat or game which is to orm the stew or soup .

S I M P L E T O M A T O S A U C E

1 medium size tin 4 tablespoons olive tomatoes o il

2 onions , chopped 4 teaspoon ﬁnely granulated sugar 1 teaspoon ﬁnely salt and freshl y chopped ground black

basil , or if not pepper to taste

available , ﬁnely chopped parsley

fr Heat oil in a heavy pan , y onion until transparent and pale

S . C yellow, add parsley or basil . train tomatoes and add ook fo r 4 of an hour, stirring frequently, add sugar and seasonings, and cook gently for a fu rther ten minutes .

A good sauce to be used with ri ce or spaghetti .

W H I T E W I N E S A U C E T O S E R V E W I T H F I S H

z 4 cup of the liquor 14 o s . butter in which ﬁsh has creamed and made cooked into a paste with a 4 cup cream tablespoonful of 4 cup white wine ﬂour

Place liquor and wine in a saucepan and bring to the boil ; add ﬂour and butter paste slowly, and allow to cook for ﬁve

minutes , by the end ofwhich time the sauce will have thickened . Add c R f ream , stirring all the while . emove rom heat and stir

in a further ounce of butter a little at a time , meanwhile beating

the sauce with an egg whisk .

P I "U A N T S A U C E

just under 4cu p l teaspoonful flour wine vinegar 4 teaspoonful 4 cu p cold water French mustard black pepper a few finely 1 teaspoonful meat chopped capers extract l tablespoonful 4 teaspoonful finely chopped tomato paste parsley z Of c 4 o . butter pinch ayenne pepper

Place vinegar in a saucepan together with a fairly generous

k c . sha ing of freshly ground black pepper, and a pin h of cayenne Bring to boil and allow to cook until the vinegar is reduced - Add c by one half. cold water in whi h you have dissolved the meat extract and the tomato paste (do not overload the sauce t wi h tomato paste , keep the quantity small) and allow to cook together for ten or twelve minutes ; strain through a ﬁne Sieve ;

- re . C replace on stove and heat ream the butter, and to it add c d c the flour and when the sauce has rea hed the boil , re u e an d a dd fl heat the butter and our paste little by little , stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens . Cook slowly for mi add five nutes longer, then remove from the fire and chopped capers and chopped parsley .

E c et c . x ellent with game , pigeons ,

S A L S A O L A N D E S E

Ho llandaise Sauce

juice of half 2 unbeaten egg a lemon yolks

4 lb . butter 4 teaspoon salt a dash of cayenne

An excellent sauce to serve with artichokes or asparagus . D Add lemon juice to unbeaten egg yolks . ivide butter into

- d C three and add one thir also to egg yolks . ook over hot, but not boiling, water, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon A d until the butter has melted and the sauce has thickened . d the second third o f the butter and continue stirring until it has melted and the sauce has thicken ed again ; repeat the process ni d an d with the remai ng thir of the butter, continue stirring Add until the sauce has the consistency of mayonnaise . the seasonings and beat sauce with a Wire whip until it takes on a shi ny appearance about half a m inute ’ s beating will be d It d neede . should not curdle , but if it shoul , beat in a little boiling water until it is smooth . T U N N Y F I S H S A U C E FOR 1 POUND OF SPAGHETTI

l —6 1 . 1 ozs . tin tunny lb (or me ﬁsh diu m siz ed tin) 3 tablespoons tomatoes chopped parsley anchovies 1 tablespoon tablespoons olive chopped capers clove garlic salt and pepper cru shed

Heat the Oil and in it allow the capers and crushed garlic m in u t es bu t add to cook a few , do not brown ; tomatoes (cut — up , skinned and seeded if raw strained through a sieve if an d F tinned) , cook for a further half hour . lake tunny ﬁsh c c c small , and hop an hovies ﬁnely and add to the tomato sau e , C d together with salt and pepper . ook uncovere until it has become thick .

C L A M S A U C E

Substituting a medium sized tin o f clams (drained) fo r the tun ny ﬁ sh and anchovies of the preceding recipe you have a favourite sauce for spaghetti frequently met with in and around N s c aples , except that there the clam ome direct out of the sea o f s and not out tin .

S H R I M P S A U C E

1 pint (before 2 tablespoons shellings) shrimps olive oil or prawns 1 small onion 1 tablespoon chopped parsley

C w hop onion and cook without bro ning in the heated oil , o f s adding a tablespoonful chopped par ley, and the shelled im w shr ps , together with warm ater to cover and simmer 20 mi The d o f few al nutes . ad ition a ﬁnely chopped toasted monds is interesting .

Pesto is a sauce of Genoese origin that ﬁnds its ways into many d c c ishes ; it is ex ellent with spaghetti , for instan e , and a table m c t he An spoon added to inestrone greatly enhan es ﬂavour . y - c c left over pesto may be pla ed in a small jar, overed with o r olive oil and kept f some days .

3 cloves garlic 1 cup grated Sardo u c s fﬁcient fresh basil heese , but since to produce this Sardinian 3 tablespoons cheese made when removed of ewes ’ milk is from stalks and not easy to pro c P torn into small ure , armesan pieces may be about 2 tablespoons substituted fresh olive oil

P c ound the garlic and basil to a paste in a mortar, add the heese t and continue pounding until a hick paste results , then slowly add oil until you have a mixture the consistency of mayon ai n se . A few almonds, pine nuts or even walnuts pounded into the paste make an interesting variation .

[ 208 ] R A G U B O L O G N E S E SUFFICIENT FOR 6

' N0 book o n Italian cookery woul d be complete Without a recipe ’

I l . o f a . for this , one t y s most famous sauces 4 lb lean beef, i or; a m xture of beef with veal and/or pork, though the beef d m i should predominate , and all should be passe through a ncer

1 z 1 c 4 o s . butter 4 ups stock or

3 . a ozs stre ky water, or for bacon preference 1 cup

onion, carrot, stock plus 4 cup c o f a sti k celery , white Wine a cru shed clove 1 teas poon tomato garlic paste 2 or 3 cloves 4 cu p cream or a pinch o f salt and pepper powdered cloves to taste

A be if few chopped mu shrooms may added liked , and if you have three or four chicken livers available, these, chopped , are a great improvement .

Having minced the meat, place in a stewpan with the heated i butter, add chopped bacon , on on , carrot and celery, all of

can . which , to save time, have been passed through the mincer Add two c c or three dried loves or a pin h of powered cloves , and allow to coo k until the meat has brown ed and the vegetables Add are a golden colour . the stock and/or wine little by little, e c add tomato paste moist ned with a little sto k, stir well ; add C salt and pepper . over meat with the liquid , lower heat and 15 allow the mixt ur e to cook gently for another minutes . In o f is c one the traditional recipes milk used instead of sto k, w - hich results in a richer tasting sauce , but this is purely a matter a of person l preference .

At the end of the coo king tim e add the cream and mix well . E xcellent sau ce fo r serving with spaghetti .

[ 209 ] L I V E R S A U C E F O R G N O C C H I

4 lb . liver, 4 lb . button (calves ’ liver will mushrooms

c c 1 . do , but hi ken glass white livers are wine (half preferable) a cupful) 4 pint chicken 1 tablespoon stock ﬂour

2 ozs . butter

C u m hop and ﬂour liver, chop m shrooms s all , and sauté both 10 12 s in butter in a heavy pan for to minutes , eason with c salt and pepper, stir in any balan e of ﬂour, and slowly add the wine ; allow to cook 7 or 8 minutes longer before adding S the stock; immer until thick .

A P P L E S A U C E

4 ff - cooking apples , l co ee spoonful medium size grated lemon 1 teaspoonfu l rind lemon juice

P cut l eel apples , them into smal pieces and place in a stew pan with water to cover , and allow to cook until they can be Add n mashed into a purée . grated lemon ri d and a pinch of l salt , remove from heat, and stir in lemon juice and wel . S erve with roast pork .

B R E A D S A U C E 4 pint milk white bread 1 medium sized 4 oz . butter oni on stuck salt wit h cloves cayenne pepper (4 of these)

[ 2 10 ]

S A L S A R E M O U L A D E

To a mayonnaise made as in the fo rego m g recipe add the follow ing 1 tablespoonful 1 tablespoonful made mu stard ﬁnely chopped or to taste parsley 2 tablespoonfu ls 2 or 3 chopped ﬁnely chopped gherkins capers

E xcellent to serve with cold meat or with shellﬁsh .

D R E S S I N G F O R G R E E N S A L A D SUFFI CIENT FOR SALAD FOR 4

4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoo n castor 1 teaspoon French sugar mustard freshly ground 1 tablespoon wine black pepper vinegar 3 tablespoons olive oil

Mix the together all ingredients except oil, then slowly add l An c the oil, and mix til well blended . ex ellent mixer is of the O alt in e The type sold for mixing such drinks as Horlicks or v . mixing time is two or three minutes , and the dressing is all the better if 1t is made an hour In advance of the meal at which O it is to be used . nce blended it can be embellished by the addi m tion of a teaspoonful or ore of ﬁnely chopped parsley, mint i or bas l, and by half a clove of garlic very ﬁnely chopped , if DO NOT ADD TO O R SALAD TIL A MO liked . Y U UN MENT OR TWO BEFORE SERVING .

[ 2 12 ] C H I C KE N S A U C E TO SERVE 4

6 c 4 pint of cream ozs . ooked o z s Bel P s 2 . ae e breast of chicken cheese cut in dice

. s 4 lb cream cheese 4 lb . mushroom

2 ozs . butter

Place cream and cheese in a double boiler and cook slowly c a over hot water, stirring onst ntly until the mixture is smooth an d M hi s creamy . eanw le, sauté the chopped mushroom in Add c the butter . these and the chopped chicken to the sau e ; c G mix well and serve hot over any kind o f pasta as iutta . rated Parm esan cheese sprinkled over the ﬁnished dish is an im pro

vem en t .

P E A S A U C E

To serve with macaroni or with rice

1 onion chopped 3 tablespoons olive ﬁnely oil 1 l rasher of streaky lb . peas (before bacon she lling) 4 pint chicken 1 tablespoon parsley stock chopped ﬁne salt and pepper to taste

l o il Heat o ive in heavy pan, and in it cook the onion until it is i golden colour ; cut bacon small and add , allow ng it to cook mi Add c e . o for three or four nut s sto k , peas and seas ning, and c ook slowly for ﬁfteen or twenty minutes .

H A M S A U C E W I T H C R E A M TO SERVE 4

o zs. 4 ozs . lean ham or 2 butter cooked gam m on 4 pint cream cu t small M the h elt the butter in a heavy pan , add am or gam m on and l wn f L a low to bro slightly be ore adding the cream . ower heat, s T and cook together until the mixture begin to b u bble . his sauce is delicious served over freshly coo ked pasta o f any variety .

M U S H R O O M A N D T OM A T O S A U C E SUFFICIENT FOR 6 PEOPLE

1b 1 1 . mushrooms tablespoon 1 - medium size tin chopped basil, or tomatoes if not available 3 tablespoons olive an equal quantity of ﬁnely chopped 1 clove garlic mint or parsley crushed a pinch o f chopped cayenne pepper thyme to taste a pinch o f salt

Heat oil and in it allow the crushed garlic to brown ; add mushi ﬁ fo r m s s rooms , sliced nely and simmer ten inutes ; pas tomatoe through a sieve , and add to the sauce together with the remain in C fo r g ingredients . over and allow to cook very slowly an

f m m . S hour, stirring ro ti e to time erve very hot as a sauce t wi h any type of pasta .

C A P E R S A U C E TO BE SERVED HOT WITH ANY FISH

2 tablespoons capers 2 ozs . butter 1 tablespoon ﬂour 2 tablespoons wine 1 tablespoon vinegar chopped parsley 1 pint beef stock salt and pepper

D c c rain apers and hop ﬁnely ; heat butter in heavy pan, add

flour, stirring until it is smooth and has turned a golden brown ; e stir in capers , add vinegar slowly, and finally stir in parsl y i hi th c e . S and seasoning, fin s ng up with beef sto k immer for quarter of an hour and serve hot .

S W E E T S O U R S A U C E FOR SERVING WITH VEGETAB LES OR WITH FISH DISHES

» 1 lb . granulated pint hot water sugar 4} pint stock 1 tablespoon ﬂou r salt and pepper 2 tablespoons win e vinegar

B rown sugar in heavy pan , sprinkle ﬂour over and blend to gether ; add hot water slowly, following with stock , vinegar and

A 3 . seasonings . llow to cook 2 or minutes and serve hot S W E E T S O U R S A U 'C E W I T H N U T S TO SERVE WITH NIBAT OR GAL/IE

n 3 s lb . chopped uts , table poons red preferably cu rrant jelly almonds or pine 2 tablespoons nuts sultanas 2 squares unsweet the grated rind ened chocolate of half a lemon 2 tablespoons and half an granul ated sugar orange 1 c 3; pint wine vinegar 2 pint sto k

Allow sugar to caramelise slightly in heavy pan before stirring S in grated chocolate and other ingredients . immer for half a an hour, seasoning with pepper and s lt to taste .

Y E T A N O T H E R S W E E T - S O U R S A U C E TO SERVE WITH MEATS

2 tablespo ons pint stock or hot butter water in which

pin ch salt . vegetables have 2 tablespoons been cooked

vinegar 2 tablespoons gran . 2 tablespoons sugar ﬂour fresh ground black pepper

C d aramelise sugar and blen in ﬂour, adding slowly the rest c m of the ingredients , and ook together slowly for twenty inutes before serving .

[ 2 17 ] T U N N Y S A U C E W I T H B L A C K 0 L I V E S TO SERVE 4

1 4 ozs . black olives medium sized tin 6 or 8 anchovies o f tunny ﬁsh tomato sauce (see any o f the various recipes fo r this un der ‘ SAUCES ’ )

an d Having prepared your tomato sauce , stone chop the olives , mash the tunny and anchovies , and add to the sauce while it is k f still coo ing ; mix well , and serve hot over resh cooked pasta .

M A R I N A R A S A U C E TO SERVE 4

1 1 c a c medium sized love g rli , onion crushed 4 6 tablespoons olive tomatoes , peeled oil teaspoon brown }1 pint whi te wine sugar 1 pint shrimps salt and pepper to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy pan and in it cook the chopped onion c cu t and crushed garli until golden colour ; add tomatoes , L small , together with sugar and pepper and salt . ower heat

fo r 20 m . hi c and allow to cook gently inutes W le this is ooking , peel shrimps , and add them together with the wine to the to

m c 15 . A mato ixture , ooking gently together for minutes little chopped fresh basil may be added 5 minutes before the end c of the ooking time , or failing this , chopped parsley . S erve hot over pasta ofany type.

[ 2 18 ]

Bru sse s s o u s served wi h Cheese an d o n io n so u 42 43 l pr t t p , ,

chestn s 175 Ches nu fri ers 188 ut , t t tt , Bu er bean s with fish 22 Ches nu u r e 17 7 tt , t t p é , Ches nu so u 39 t t p ,

Cabine u ddin 19 1 Chick eas 92 t p g, p , ’ Cacciu cco allaTo scan a 103 Chick eas sai o rs s e 93 , p , l tyl ,

Calam aretti, 105 Chicken , 152 ff.

‘ Cannello n i 49 Chicken breas s Lo m ba d s e , , t , r tyl , Cann ello ni filled with cheese 155

an d sau sa e 66 Chicken b o h 3 1 g , , r t ,

Ca e sau ce 2 16 Chicken arn ished 153 p r , , g ,

Ca ellet ti 6 Chicken in whi e wine 155 pp , 7 t ,

Ca ellet ti in bro do 7 1 Chicken iver ar e s 24 pp , , l t tl t ,

Ca o n m a ro 125 Chicken ivers an d r ice so u ffle pp g , , l , Ca rett o in casseru o la 138 p , 89

Carcio i 163—4 Chicken u r e 156 f , , p é ,

Carcio i alla iu daica 164 Chicken r avio i fi in 70 f g , , l ll g , Carcio i in ricassea 163 Chicken r iso o 80 f f , , tt ,

Carcio i in u mido co n iselli Chicken Ro m an s e 156 f p , , tyl , 164 Chicken , sau ce, 2 13

Car o t e al bu rro 174 Chicken s ew 152 , , t ,

Car 123 Chicken ar e s 24 p , , t tl t , Ca ro ts bu ered 174 Chicken wi h cr eam 154 r , tt , t , Ca o s can d ed 175 Chicken wi h o ives 152 rr t , i , t l ,

Carr o s co o ked in bu ter 175 Chicken wi h eas 153 t , t , t p ,

Cau f o we Sicilian s e 176 Chicken wi h m u shro o m s 154 li l r tyl , t , Cau f o we wi h m ea sau ce 176 Cinnam o n 18 li l r t t , ,

Cav o l io re alla lio n ese 176 Ci o lle ri iene 1 f , p p , 17

Cavo l io re alla Siciliana 176 C am sau ce 206 f , l , ’ Ceci 92 C am s fisherm en s s e 122 , l tyl , Ceci alla m arinara 93 C am s wi h e s 12 1 , l t gg , Ce er 13 Gl o ves 18 l y, ,

Ce er s u ffed 22 Co d au ratin 103 l y, t , g , Charl o tte di mele ere o esche Co d F o ren in e s e 108 , p p , , l t tyl , 190 Co d sa cream ed 1 10 , lt, ,

Cheese 14 Co d sa in sau ce 109 , , lt, , Cheese cream 2 7 Co d sa Li u rian s e 109 , , , lt, g tyl ,

Cheese dishes 94 . Co d sa risso es o f 1 1 1 , , ff , lt, l , Cheese f ed 100 Co d wi h to m a o es 108 , ri , t t , Cheese o m e e t e 96 Co ni lio alla bo r hese 160 , l t , g g , Cheese r avio i fi in 69 Co ni lio in salsa iccant e 160 , l ll g , g p , ,

Cheese r ice ba s 85 16 1 , ll ,

Cheese sau ce 199 Co o kin em e a ur es 1 1 , , g t p r t , o o kin m es fo r ast a 5 1 Fenn e an ti ast o 22 C g ti p , l , p ,

n r eeds 18 Fenn e seeds 18 Co ria de s , l , ,

m anzo alla casalin a Fen n e st uffed 22 Co scia di g , l , , 13 1 Fett u cin e with m eat sau ce an d

i ello al su o 134 cheese 56 Co sto lett e di v t g , ,

te Milanese 133 Fi fri ter s 187 Co st o let , g t ,

Cr abs so f she 105 Fin o cchio n a, see Fen n e seeds , t ll , l

Fish 101 . Cr awfish, 105 , ff

r cheese av o f in 69 Fish o n ratin , 102 C eam r i li ill g , g m m u shr oo m so u 44 Fish cakes 103 Crea o f p , ,

Cream o f o m a o so u 44 Fish en o ese s l e 1 15 t t p , , G ty , Cr em a di ba n o m aria 192 Fish in a e cases 1 18 g , p p r , ’ Cro stini all an an asso 193 F sh m i ed fr ied 12 1 , i , x , Cro stini alla Na o lit ana 2 7 Fish sa ad 125 p , l ,

Cu cu mber sa ad 182 Fish S ci ian f ied 102 l , , i l r , Cu s ar d rich s eam ed 192 F sh so u see So u s fish t , t , i p , p , Fish inn ed an d sa ed 15 , t lt ,

Ee s Ferr ar a s e 106 Fish to bo 1 19 l tyl , , il , Ee s r o as 106 107 F sh to r o as 1 19 l , t, , i , t, Ee s s ewed 107 Fish w h har co o r bu tter l , t , it i t

E dishes 94 . n gg , if bea s, 22

E an d ar s e sau ce 199 F av o ur in s 12—19 gg p l y , l g , ’ E s har d bo i ed an d sa ad Fo r tun ata Ru o cco s co d e er gg , l , l , l p pp 182 1 83 an i as o 23 , t p t , E s scramb ed wi h cheese 99 Fr en ch bean s bu tt ered 165 gg , l , t , , ,

E s wi h ice 99 Fr en ch bean s fricassee 166 gg t r , , ,

E bo w m acar o n i ie 5 7 Fr en ch bean s Ro m an s e 166 l p , , tyl , h 1 Fricassee o f ar tic o kes , 63

Fa ian o al Madera 159 r e Fr en h be n 166 g , F icasse , c a s,

Fa io li alla r ovin ciale 167 Fr icassee r abbi 16 1 g p , , t, Fa io lini al bu rr o 165 Fr icassee v ea 136 g , , l , Fa io lin i alla Ro m ana 166 F i a a ai ar io i g , r tt t c c f , 97

" Fa io lini in ricassea 166 Frittat a ai u n hi 96 g f , f g ,

Fave al u nciale 168 Fritt at a ai le u m i 96 g , g ,

Fe at o all a Milan ese 143 Fritt ata ai ro sciu t t o 97 g , p ,

Fe at o alla S a n o la 141 Fritt at a ai t art u i 9 g p g , ff , 5

Fe ato alla To scana 143 Fritt at a al o rm a io 96 g , f gg ,

Fe at o alla Ueneziana 144 Fritt at a alla Ci o lle 97 g , p , ’ Fe at o all It aliana 14 F i a all alsa di o mido r o g , 2 r tt ta a s p , Fe at o lan di 14 g , f , 5 96

Fe at o o l ett e di 145 i a o i o g , p p , Fr tt at c l r s , 98

ri at a di atate 98 F tt p ,

Fenne 14 Frit tat a arcita 97 l , f , Frittat a sem lice 95 Herbs o m e e e wi h 95 p , , l tt t , Fr ittelle al a Fio ren tina Herrin s ri ed 107 l , g , g ll , Frit ers 185 Ho an aise sau ce 205 t , ff. ll d , Fr er s a e 186 itt , ppl , Fr ers a r co 186 In sa ata a a iardin ier a 183 itt , p i t, l ll g , Fr i er s ba e fo r 185 tt , tt r , Fr it ers ches nu 188 u n i e berr es 15 t , t t, J p r i , Fr i ers fi 187 tt , g,

Fr ers F o ren in e 188 Kid o t r o as o f 138 itt , l t , , p t , Kidn B n Fri ers each 187 e s, o o ese s e 148 tt , p , y l g tyl , Fri ers ear 186 Kidn e s s ewed 147 tt , p , y , t ,

Fr i ters um 187 t , pl ,

Fr i ters sem o na 187 Lamb, o t r o as o f 138 t , li , p t , Fr i ter s swee 189 Lam b r o as 137 t , t, , t, Lasa ne 49 Fritt o m ist o m o re 12 1 g , — , Fro s 1 7 8 Lasa ne al o rn o , 64 g , 2 g f Lasa n e imbo ttit e 65 Fru i f an 194 g , t l , Lasa ne verdi g , 63

Len ti o u 34 am e 1 s , , 36 G , 56 ff l p ’ ’ Le tu ce sa ad 18 a den er s w fe s sa ad 183 , 2 G r i l , t l Let u ce so u 41 ar ic 15 p , G l , t Lin u a alla salsa 14 ar c so u 42 g , 9 G li , p , Lin u a co n o live 1 Gavato ni 5 1 g , 50 , Live f an 145 en o ese f sh so u 46 , G i p , r l Live f an Ita ian st e 14 en o ese r ce 80 , y , 2 G i , r l l l Live Mi an ese s e 143 n hi f an , , o cc 67 7 1 . G , , ff r l l tyl Liv 1 n o cchi all a Ro m ano e f an , risso es , 45 G , , 73 r l l Live f an sau ce 1 n o cchi o tato 7 , , 2 0 G , p , 2 r l Liver f an S an ish s e 14 1 no cch sem o ina 72 , p y , G i , l , l t l L ver f an Tu scan st e 143 no cchi w h to m a o sau ce 73 , y , G it t , i l l Live f an Ven e ian s e 144 reen sau ce 207 , , G , r l t tyl Liver f an wi h ar i ho kes 144 r e m u e r ed 124 c , G y ll t, g ill , l t t Lo bs er bo i ed 104 t , l , Lo bs e c d 104 Ham o m e e e 97 , o , l tt , t r l ‘ Lo bs e f ed 105 Ham sau ce wi h cr eam 2 13 , , , t , t r ri Ham w h s a he i 59 it p g tt ,

Ha e in swee so u r sau ce 15 7 Maca o n , 49 r t , r i Ma ro n i baked wi h cheese 58 Hare s ew 157 ca , , , t , t M aro ni baked w h so u c eam Ha ico bean so u 43 ac , , r t p , it r r Harico bean s 167 59 t ,

Harico bean s wi h baco n 167 Macaro n i ie e bo w 5 7 t t , , p , l , Harico beans w h f sh 22 Maca o ni w h b o cco 62 t it i , r it r li , Herb 1 — M z lla m assaia 13 1 s, 2 19 an o a ,

ars e 16 l u m f i ers 187 P l y, P r tt , ars e bu er 201 o llo ai u n hi 154 P l y, tt , P f g , ar s e an d e sau ce 199 o llo ai iselli 153 P l y gg , P p , ar r d es Mi anese s e 158 o llo alla crema 154 P t i g l tyl , P , ll o all Ro m an o ast a 49 . o a 156 P , if P , as a ho m e m ade 52 o llo alle o live 152 P t , , P , as a u an i ies o f 52 o llo al vin o bianco 155 P t , q t t , P , as a t o co o k 50—1 o ll o co n verdu re 153 P t , , P , asticcio di ru tta 194 o ll o in u mido 152 P f , P , astina 49 o ll o etti di alla Lo mbarda P , P , p , , atate al bu rro 173 155 P , at at arr o st o l n a e 172 o e t 90 . P , P , ff at ate co n salsa di o mido ro o len ta w h cheese 91 P p , P it , 173 o len ta wi h o m a o sau ce 91 P t t t , atate in stu at o 172 o l etti 35 P f , P p , Pea sau ce 2 13 o l et tine di st o cca isso 1 1 1 , P p f , eas reen arisian s e 169 o m ido ri alla casalin a 174 P , g , P tyl , P g , eas r een wi h ham 168 o rk cho s alla Na o lit ana 139 P , g , t , P p p , eas s ewed w h ar icho kes 164 o r cho s w h ru n es 140 P , t it t , P k p it p , each char o e 190 o r in m i k alla Bo lo nese 138 P l tt , P k l g , each fr er s 187 o rk o in o f eru an s e 139 P itt , P , l , P gi tyl , ea char o e 190 o rk o n o f Tu scan s e 139 P r l tt , P , l i , tyl , ear fr er s 186 o a o fr ers 172 P itt , P t t itt e er 18 o a o no cchi 72 P pp , P t t g , e e an ti ast o co d 23 o a o o m e e e 98 P pp r, p ( l ) , P t t l tt , e e an ti ast o ho t 25 o a o ancakes 17 1 P pp r, p ( ) , P t t p , ern icio tte alla Milanese 158 o a o es baked 172 P , P t t , , esce ratinat o 102 o a o es bu er ed 173 P g , P t t , tt , esci accart o cciati 1 18 o t a o es sau eed 172 P , P t , t , est o 208 o a o es w h o m a o sau ce P , P t t , it t t

heasan in Madei a 159 o u r 152 . P t r , P lt y, ff ’ iccat e see Scal o ine o zzu o i fisherm en s so u 47 P , pp P l p , i eo n s wi h eas 157 u ddin cabin e 19 1 P g t p , P g, t, s in b anke s 120 u ddin m i k wi h a m o n ds 191 Pig l t , P g , l , t l , ike 123 u r e o f ches nu s 177 P , P é t t , ike o u ratin 123 u r e o f chicken 156 P g , P é , in e n u s 17 P t , inea e o as 193 Rabbi citizen st e 160 P ppl t t, t, yl , i u an sau ce 204 Rabbi f icassee 16 1 P q t , t, r , iselli alla ari ina 169 Rabbi in i u an sau ce 160 16 1 P P g , t, p q t , , ’ iselli al r o sciu tt o 168 Ra it Bo lo nese 209 P p , g g , izza 196 Ran e alla astaldo 128 P , G ,

izza all a Cam o ran co 196 7 Ravio li 67 . P p f , , if Ravi o li baco n an d sau sa e Riso t to en o ese 80 , g , G ,

fi l in fo r 7 1 Riso t o in ca n o ni di m a ro 85 l g , t g g , Ravio li cheese fi in fo r 69 Ri so o m u shr o o m 77 , ll g , tt , ,

Rav io li chicken fi in fo r 70 Riso to ain 76 , ll g , t , pl , Ravi o li cr eam cheese fi lin fo r Riso t o r ich 7 7 , l g . t , , 69 Ri so t o she lfish 79 t , l ,

Ri o t o Ven e ian 8 1 Rav io li fi in s fo r 68 . s , ll g , ff t , t , 1 Ravio li m ea fi lin fo r 70 Risso es br ain s, 49 , t l g , l , 14 Ravio li s in ach fi in fo r 68 Risso les, iver , 5 p ll g , l Ravio li t o m ake 67—8 Risso es sa co d 1 1 1 , , l , lt ,

Red m u e 124 Ro no n i all a Bo l o nese 148 ll t, g g , Red m u e fried 1 14 Ro n o ni in u mido 147 ll t, , g ,

Red m u ll e Le ho rn s e 1 13 Ru m s ea ho u sewife fashio n t, g tyl , p t k ,

Red m u e L urian s e 1 14 13 1 ll t, ig tyl , Red m ul e Tries e s e 1 15 l t, t tyl , Saffr n 17 Rice, 74 if. o ,

Rice an ti asti 1 Sa e 18 , p , 2 g , ’ Rice bo i ed with bu t er an d Sai o r s so u 46 , l , t l p , cheese 84 Sa ad dr essin 2 12 , l g ,

Rice bo i ed with bu e an d Sa ads 18 1 . , l , tt r l , ff

ce e 85 Sa ads cu cum ber 182 l ry , l , , ’ ’

Rice fried wi h baco n an d e Sa ads arden er s wife s, 183 , , t gg, l , g Sa ads har d bo ed e 182 183 88 l , il gg, ,

Rice o m e e te 98 Sal ads et u ce 182 , l t , , l t ,

R ce an d eas Ven e ian st e 8 1 Sa ads m ixed 183 i p t yl , l , ,

Rice so u ff wi h chicken ivers Sa ads o n io n 182 , lé t l , l , , 8 Sa ads ain 182 9 l , pl ,

Ri ce so uff wi h shr im s 89 Sa ads wi h so ur cr eam 183 , lé t p , l t , Rice t o bo i 83 Salsa alla izzaio l a 2 07 , l , p , R ce w h cabba e 83 Salsa o lan dese 205 i it g , , Rice wi h ce e 83 Salsa Rem o u lade 2 12 t l ry , , Rice w h urn i s 82 Sa sa verde 207 it t p , l , Triestin a 141 Rico tta, 14 Salsiccie alla ,

Ri at o ni 5 1 Sa 18 g , lt, Risi e bisi 81 Sa co d cr eam ed 1 10 , lt , , Ris o e cavo li 83 Sa co d in sau ce 109 , lt , , Riso e ra e 82 Sa co d Li ur ian st l e 109 p , lt , g y , Riso e sedan o 83 Sa co d r isso es o f 1 1 1 , lt , l ,

Riso in ca n o ni 4 Sar in s 15 g , 8 d e ,

’ Ro sem ar 1 y, 7 Sartzt , 87

Riso tt o brain s , , 79 Sau ces, 198 ff.

Riso t o chicken 80 Sau ce alm o n d 2 01 t , , , ,

Riso o favo ur e 78 Sau ce an cho v 2 19 tt , it , , y , Sau ce a e 2 10 Scam i alla Mo denese 1 17 , ppl , p ,

Sau ce B cham e 199 Scam i f ied 1 16 , é l , p r ,

Sau ce br ead 2 10 Sem o in a fri ers 187 , , l tt , Sau ce bro wn 200 Sem o in a n o cchi 187 , , l g , Sau ce ca er 2 16 S o liate do lce di rico tt a 195 , p , f g ,

Sau ce cheese 199 She f sh riso o 79 , , ll i tt , Sau ce chicken 2 13 Shrim sau ce 200 206 , , p , ,

Sau ce c am 206 Shr m s an d r ice so u ff 89 , l , i p lé , Sau ce e an d ars e 199 Sici ian fried fish 102 , gg p l y, l ,

Sau ce reen 207 Sici ian r eci es fo r as ta 61—2 , g , l p p ,

Sau ce ham 2 13 Sn ai s 12 7 , , l , Sau ce Ho an da se 205 S o ritt o , ll i , ff , 202

Sau ce ive 2 10 So e fr ed in o il 122 , l r, l i , Sau ce m arin ara 2 18 So e r i ed 103 , , l g ll , Sau ce m ea 2 15 So e wi h wh e w ne 122 , t, l t it i ,

Sau ce m ea w h m u shr o o m s So u ff o f r ice an d chic en , t; it . lé k 2 15 ive s 89 l r , Sau ce m u sh o o m 200 o f r ice and shrim s 89 , r , So u fflé p ,

Sau ce m u shro o m an d o m a o So u ff o f t a liatelle 54 , t t . lé g ,

2 14 So u s o c c ear 30 p t k, l , Sau ce ar s e an d e 199 So u s 29 . , p l y gg, p , ff

Sau ce ea 2 13 So u bean har ico 43 , p , p , , t,

Sau ce i u an 204 So u cheese an d o n io n 42 43 , p q t, p , , ,

Sau ce shrim 200 206 So u ches n u 39 , p , , p , t t,

Sau ce swee so u 2 16 2 17 So u cream o f m u shro o m 44 , t r, , p , ,

Sau ce swee so u w th n u s So u cr eam o f t o m a o 44 , t r, i t . p , t , 2 17 o u fish 45 . S p , , If

Sau ce o m a o 202 So u ar ic 42 , t t , p , g l ,

Sau ce to m ato alla Na o litan a So u en o ese 46 , , p , p , G ,

203 So u har ico bean 43 p , t , Sau ce, to m ato un swee ened 2 03 So u l en il 34 36 , t , p , t , , S u a ce, to m a o an d m u shr o o m So u e u ce 41 t , p , l tt ,

2 14 So u m arro w alla Na o lit ana p , , p , Sau ce u nn fish 206 18 41 , t y , , 2

Sau ce Ven e ian 2 19 So u m u shro o m cream o f 44 , t , p , , ,

Sau ce white w n e 201 04 So u o n io n an d cheese 42 43 , i , , 2 p , , , ’ Sau sa es Tr ies e s e 141 So u o zzu o i fisher m en s 47 g t tyl , p , P l , ’ Sau sa es wi h t o m a o sau ce 141 So u sai o rs 46 g t t , p , l ,

Scal o e a lla Mo den ese 13 So u s in ach 36 3 7 38 pp , 4 p , p , , ,

Scalo e di vit ell o al su o 1 So u S r acu san 48 pp g , 34 p , y ,

Scal o e Milanese 133 So u t o m ato cream o f 44 pp , p , , ,

Scalo in e al Marsala 133 So u ve e ab e 35 40 pp , p , g t l , ,

Scam i all a Lo mbarda 1 17 S a he i 49 p , p g tt ,

Whi e wine sau ce 201 Vea 132 ff. l , t , Vea cho s Ve o n ese s e 135 Whi e w n e sau ce fo r fish 204 l , p r tyl , t i ,

Vea fr icassee 136 Whi in cu r ed 1 18 l , , t g , l ,

Vea ie st uffed 15 1 Wo o dco ck 158 159 l , p , , , ,

Vea o as 136 l , r t, Vea s ew w h eas 135 Zaba lio n e Zabaio n e 185 l , t it p , g ( ) , Vea w h u nn fish 134 Zu cchini ritti 17 7 l it t y , i , Ve e ab e o m e e e 96 Za a all a Fo u bo n ne 40 g t l l tt , pp , Ve e ab e so u 40 Za a alla Marinara 46 g t l p, pp , Ve etab e so u wi h m ea ba l s Za a di esce alla en o vese g l p t t l , pp p G , 35 46

Ve e ab es 162 . Za a di esce alla Siracu sana g t l , ff pp p , Vene an sau ce 2 19 48 ti ,

Uit llo in ricassea 1 a a di d e f , 36 Z pp pesce dei pescato ri i Uitall o in u mido co n iselli 135 o zzu o li 47 p , P , Uitello ri ien o al asticcio 15 1 Za a aradiso 39 p p , pp P , Za a avese 38 pp P ,

Wei h s an d m easur es 10 g t ,