. Photocolumn

Three-toed A rare and precious species in the Carpathian-basin, Woodpecker this photo catches the three-toed woodpecker in its traditional habitat, the coniferous forest, clinging to the trunk in front of its hole. The photo depicts the subtly carved hole entrance characteristic of the species, and the top of the beak of a hungry nestling peeping out of the nesting hole!

Josef Hlasek Slovensky raj National Park

support, preserve, enjoy ’s wilderness!

www.panparks.org PAN Parks Courier Combining nature conservation and sustainable tourism in Europe’s protected areas Winter 2004

A promising Italian candidate New Certified PAN Park: Tourism is nature’s best friend Developing parks and communities Retezat National Park PAN News

PA N Par k s

Canon Story, Japan Courier

PAN Parks Courier is the voice of the PAN (Protected Area Network) Parks Foundation. The Courier aims to inform all interested parties about PAN Parks. The project, as a joint initiative of WWF and Molecaten, is financed by WWF Netherlands. Hunedoreanul, ”Retezat has received European recognition through being awarded the PAN Parks certification.” Editorial Board André Brasser Edit Borza Zoltán Kun

Letters to the Editor and Free Subscription Spissky Dennik, Slovakia Edit Borza ”Finally, tourists are not PAN Parks Foundation c/o WWF considered as the enemies of PF 264, 9002 Gyôr, Hungary conservationists.” Tel.: +36 1 214 5554 Fax: +36 1 212 9353 e-mail: [email protected]

Cover Photo www.vita.it Vladivoj Vancura .. ”During the PAN Parks conference Fulufjallet National Park a study on Mediterranean national parks’ visitor management Design and Lay-out practices has been presented.” Hammer Advertising

Circulation 2500 copies are distributed HU ISSN 1586-1058 PAN Parks Courier is printed on recycled paper and is DalaDemokraten, published by PAN Parks Project ”Fulufjället National Park is fully (9E0163) of WWF certified, also its Sustainable Tourism Development Strategy Electronic version of this and and local business partners previous issues of the Courier have been verified.” can be downloaded at www.panparks.org under Newsroom > Courier.

2 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004 In This Issue

What’s New? Network News 4 Announcements 12 More satisfied visitors

5 Europe’s Wilderness Days 12 Tree from the Viking age

Communicating nature 13 A promising Italian candidate

Network Focus Conservation with the public 6 What makes Retezat a PAN Park? Feedback 6 13 14 The wild heart of Tourism Spotlight the Carpathians 8 Tourism is nature’s best friend Our Partners PAN Stories 15 PAN Parks, Other co-operating 10 Developing parks national parks, International 10 and communities 14 business partners

It is an ancient recognition that aspects with the enjoyment of nature tales have a power over human lives Editorial and some of them became national as it is demonstrated in one of the oldest symbols of America (see article pieces of world literature, the Tales on pages 8-9). of 1001 Nights when Scheherezade saves her life by captivating the interest Although European parks have of the bored Sultan with the expectation considerable drawbacks in “selling of a new tale for every night. Sultans, Edit Borza themselves” as compared to their genies and the magic Arabic world American counterparts, there are already might have disappeared but humankind many positive initiatives. Unfortunately, has preserved its longing for new stories Tales of nature many parks still lack the means and staff that help us dispel boredom, and can to invest in image-making and marketing. be more effective means of education Balkan is famous for its To help them, PAN Parks will continue to than textbooks. old monasteries, which have long encourage and promote projects that aim been the guards of Bulgarian national to improve communication and help A well-known tool in communication, and cultural identity with a lot of to find the tales each park has to tell… national parks have just recently legends attached. discovered the importance of story-telling and its usefulness to attract more It is getting more and more important visitors. The tales a park can tell can, to invest in “communicating” of course vary in Fulufjället, for instance, nature and increase the quality of visitors can see the remembrance trees, tourist experience. André Brasser, which have been carved to commemorate Communication Advisor of PAN Parks a person or an important event, Retezat studied the practice of American national is promoted as the “bear country” parks that were very successful in Write to the Editor at: (see article on page 14) and Central combining cultural and historical [email protected]

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 3 What’s New?

Announcements

Our first certified international Europe’s Wilderness Days 2004 tourism partner

After passing successful verification, SNP Natuurreizen, Europe’s Wilderness Days, the annual PAN Parks conference a tour provider based in the Netherlands, has become the took place in Norcia, between 7-11 October with more than first certified international tourism partner of PAN Parks. 70 participants. Special thanks go to Monti Sibillini National Park, The verification process examines the management, the host of the conference, for the co-organization and the pleasant marketing, training, and operational practices of atmosphere. At the event, Retezat National Park was awarded the potential partners against PAN Parks Principle 5. PAN Parks certification, and several national parks expressed their A long time generous supporter of WWF initiatives, commitment to apply for verification, including Küre Mountains SNP conducts outdoor adventure and leisure travel tours National Park, . to off-beat locations in Europe and select destinations There were several inspiring presentations by tourism and around the world. The company offers organised trips to conservation experts followed by training days for the participants. two Certified PAN Parks: a 10-day nature holiday in To give readers a glimpse of the conference the abstracts of the Oulanka National Park in and an 8-day walking tour of Fulufjället National Park in Sweden. The tours presentations of Edit Borza on communicating nature and combine quality cultural experience with a taste of André Brasser on US national parks experience were chosen “real” wilderness. as they both touch the sensitive issue of how to introduce A certified partnership is an opportunity for SNP to a somewhat more entrepreneurial spirit to parks. expand operations into other PAN Parks, and to receive a public endorsement of its sustainable tourism policies. For PAN Parks, SNP can continue to promote our partner areas and provide quality experience to ecologically Communicating nature minded people. “It is essential for national parks to adopt a more business- For further information: minded approach and to invest in communicating nature Gert Nieuwboer as this also supports realising conservation goals,”stated [email protected] Edit Borza in her presentation at the Europe’s Wilderness Days conference that examined the role of national parks Training opportunity for local partners from a somewhat unusual perspective.

Trailfinders, a Dutch tourism company specialising in A fake dilemma: communication versus conservation? horse riding holidays and a committed international business partner of PAN Parks, offers a training While communication is getting more and more important opportunity for two local business partners from in any other field, for many conservationists, this is the Bieszczady and Central Balkan National Parks. The first item they remove from the budget charts or even training course will focus on how to organise a horseback forget to include. Of course, the argument is that there riding holiday and provide for leisure and sport activity, is no trained staff for communication and after all, parks which increases the attraction of the park and the area for are mainly responsible for conservation and not for the visitors. This is particularly important for the PAN Parks communications or marketing. This is, nevertheless, Foundation since we can thereby promote local a fake dilemma since communication can help a lot businesses and make use of the existing expertise of to realise conservation goals, for example involving the community. The offer further demonstrates how international tourism partners can support small local stakeholders in decision-making, gaining the support of the businesses in acquiring new skills and increasing their local community, educating visitors and making people marketing value. more conscious of the environment and the role of national parks. And more visitors would, of course, For further information: mean a higher income, which can be used for the Hans Hoff benefit of the park and the local community. This latter [email protected] aspect is discussed in what follows.

4 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004 ht:Edit Borza Photo: Step-by-step

First of all, the “selling” of a park to visitors is similar to other business situations and, therefore, a more business-minded approach should be followed. The same elements should be considered: the product (nature and services), the consumers (present and potential visitors) and the message (what we want them to know/do) should be clearly identified and addressed properly by park managers to enable successful communication.

The first step is to clearly identify the target group (visitors/potential visitors) Monti Sibillini was co-organiser of Europe’s Wilderness Days to whom we intend to sell the product (the national park and its services visitors. Amazing scenery, huge waterfalls hear stories about how the landscape including trails, huts and guiding). It is or breathtaking peaks, of course, render it was formed, the traditional way important to conduct a survey among much easier to attract tourists to a of life of shepherds, the history visitors to map characteristics such as age, national park. In the absence of of cheese-making. And after all, gender, education, family status, and spectacular sights, the services a park can we should not forget that stories shape economic situation. It is also important offer (horseback riding, mountain huts, the consciousness of people more to track consumer habits and demands, canoeing, dog sledging) and the stories we effectively than any postcard. including the length of visit, the aim of stay, can tell of nature become more The definition of these elements is desired experiences, and the facilities used. important. As people usually make essential to get the message through. decisions based on their emotions, stories Secondly, it is important to think of ways attached to nature can really work well. PAN Parks support to increase the appeal of the product for In Monti Sibillini, for example, we could How can PAN Parks support parks in this activity? PAN Parks can be very effective in increasing the visibility of parks by providing alternative channels

Photo: Parks PAN of communication, in establishing a research network and thus providing useful studies in ecotourism, in supporting the creation of tourism packages and offering promotional channels such as the website or the Courier. We can offer ideas about how to communicate nature, but, of course, each park should find its own message.

For further information: Edit Borza Conference participants at the venue, a previous monastery building [email protected]

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 5 Network Focus

the park expanded to almost 40,000 Retezat hectares of the Retezat mountain range, which, from the valley bottoms to the National Park peaks, are as high as 2490 m.

Situated in one of Europe’s most Retezat is a mountain range as they once were outstanding natural regions, the in Europe - with deep virgin forests in its Carpathians, the Romanian park valleys, mountain streams flowing from can indeed boast remarkably diverse enchanted lakes, traditional mountain pastures landscape features. Retezat is a great on the mountaintops, with predators such as PAN Park as it provides an excellent wolf, bear and lynx competing daily with sample of Carpathian high mountain shepherds, and eagles eyeing the visitor from ecosystems with deep valleys covered by high altitude. The park offers a true wilderness mixed forests of beech, fir and other tree experience to visitors. species, and over 80 glacial lakes dispersed among high mountain peaks, with numerous endemic and threatened 38 047 ha What makes Retezat species such as Draba dorneri, brown bears, wolves, and chamois. On the other a PAN Park? hand, the mountain pastures are among the few in Europe that are still used by Declared protected in 1935, Retezat roaming shepherds in almost the same has become the first national park in manner as when humans first started Romania. Despite the difficult historical animal husbandry in Europe thousands periods and the attempt to exploit of years ago, relying just on their heavy natural resources such as water and sheepskin coats, shepherd dogs and deep forests in an unsustainable manner, understanding of the mountains. Photo: APNR

The park has more than 80 glacial lakes dispersed among high peaks

6 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004

Retezat National Park undoubtedly Tudor Predescu Photo: represents a unique natural and cultural heritage that provides for an unforgettable visitor experience of “real” wilderness. The hiking trails and tourist facilities fit in this “rough” natural environment enabling venturesome tourists to lose touch with civilization and engage in the real adventure of spending several days at high altitude with just the food and equipment they carry in their rucksacks. In Retezat, visitors can find harmony with nature and explore the unimaginable beauties of the wild in a solitude which is so difficult to find in our overcrowded modern cities.

by Grigore Opritoiu

Chamois is one of the threatened species of the park

A voice from the field

The verification team - Juan Herrero (Lead Verifier), The national park was recognised by UNESCO as a Jernej Stritih (Verifier),Alexander Zinke (Verifier), Biosphere Reserve in 1979. At the time when Romania is Erica Stanciu (local expert) and Vladivoj Vancura (PAN preparing to be a member state of the European Union, Parks observer) - visited Retezat National Park between Retezat National Park has not just fulfilled the

14-16 September for a field trip to evaluate the area. Juan Herrero Photo: In what follows, Jernej Stritih reports on his experience.

For me this was the second visit to Retezat after nine years and I was impressed with how the national park team in these years turned the area from a park under threat from waste, hydropower development and logging, into a leading protected area with the support of Romanian NGOs and donors, such as the World Bank. We all enjoyed the friendly and creative atmosphere that made us immediately feel at home in the Retezat as well The verification team having a break as the encounters with wildlife. responsibility of the country to protect nature of The team among others visited Lake Bucura, which is the European importance but it has also provided an largest lake in the national park, the limestone ridge, opportunity for the development of the surrounding Small Retezat, the strictly protected reserve, Gemenele, communities through sustainable tourism. I believe that that was a no-go area for 70 years and the new visitor the certification of Retezat as a PAN Park is an important centre in Nuscoara. step in this direction.

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 7 Tourism Spotlight

Tourism is nature’s best friend In American national parks

“From the very beginning, tourism has been The campaign made it a lot easier for early are not seen as the icons of Europe they nature conservation’s best friend,and can conservationists to convince the US are looking for. again help us to reconcile the protection government to establish Yellowstone as the of nature with today’s reality,”WWF world’s first national park in 1872. But not all parks in America are that Netherlands tourism coordinator Andre The Railways proved to be very helpful well-known. “Americans love their Brasser concluded after his trip to the to create the myth of the wonders of nature parks, all five of them” as a popular US National Parks Service in June 2004. as “must sees.” This led to the creation saying amongst national parks staff of more parks in the US, the adoption goes. Big Bend National Park in Texas By the end of the 19th century the American of the idea in Europe and eventually for example attracted 312,000 visitors Railway Companies managed to overcome the spread of protected areas all over in 2003. That’s close to nothing compared distances which had previously been the world. to the million-seller Blue Ridge Parkway beyond imagination, and effectively From the 1950s onwards, increasingly in the Appalachians (18 million visitors connected the Eastern and Western coasts one single logo has been used to represent in 2003). Since they belong to the same with their rails. The only thing that was all parks. This facilitated the creation of system, however, they can benefit from missing was passengers and a reason for The National Parks as one of America’s joint marketing where nearby less popular them to travel. It was this time that the icons. European visitors today booking areas are advertised in the hot spots. companies first discovered the appeal of a trip to, say Las Vegas, “naturally” The Golden Gate Area (13.8 million natural beauties such as Grand Canyon include a visit to Grand Canyon while visitors in 2003) near San Francisco for the people and started advertising Americans are unlikely to find their way to provides one of the best examples of the idea: “Let’s build lodges out there!” European parks just because the latter joint marketing: here a group of natural Photo: Elma Brasser

Bryce Canyon National Park, one of the icons of America

8 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004

raise their own funds or even lack the staff conservation. In advanced cases such as the to do the applications. To help them, the Las Vegas area, a separate organization US government initiated a so-called fee linked to the area - The Outside Las Vegas demonstration programme for the National Foundation - took control of fundraising

Photo: Elma Brasser Parks Service, which enables a selected and proved to be very successful in group of parks to raise their own tourism mobilizing public and political support fees. Out of the collected sum, 80% can for national parks. The National Parks stay in the park budget and 20% is paid to Foundation has a similar approach for the budget of less well-known parks. the National Parks Service in general. The scheme prompted the parks to do a In the end, like it or not, without support business opportunity screening. They no park can operate let alone survive in selected the most promising cases, made a our commercialised world. And support is business case out of them and marketed difficult to get for areas that many outsiders them to the right audience. This resulted consider being mere obstacles to the free not only in better negotiated concessions use of space and resources. Here, just like Feedback to generate support in Grand Canyon: with private companies but also in an in the very early days, tourism can be this is how we spent your money improved collection of entrance fees and instrumental again. To make use of it, and cultural parks united under the cover the introduction of user fees for boats and it is, nevertheless, essential for the park of a single brand are successfully marketed cars. In the beginning, visitors lamented: managers and park staff to revisit past in a professional almost Disney-like way. “We have already paid our taxes to the biases and adopt a more entrepreneurial government, why should we pay twice to perspective on tourism and conservation. Win a lot, lose a little make use of it!” But after some time the Maybe we can learn from the example of scheme found a general acceptance by the the American Railroad Companies, which Despite the negative effect of over- public. Not the least because parks took an by the way, have never counted either visitation, generally speaking, nature effort to communicate to the people on among the friends of ecologists… protection has more to win than to lose signboards in visible places where they in its partnership with the tourism sector. spent the money on. For further information visit Facing decreasing support from the www.seeamerica.org public funds, it is remarkable, though, The spirit of enterprise - www.outsidelasvegas.org that many parks are unwilling or reluctant learning a new role www.nationalparks.org to use their tourist potential to raise www.nps.org additional income. Of course, there are The scheme has forced parks to take a or contact André Brasser constraints. Many parks are not able to more entrepreneurial look at nature [email protected]

8 ways US parks earn money from tourism

1. Entrance fees Photo: Elma Brasser 2. User fees 3. Concessions 4. Voluntary donations programme 5. Associated foundations 6. Merchandising 7. Corporate partnership programme 8. Joint marketing programmes with other parks Bryce Canyon lodge: one of the first lodges built in national parks in the 19th century

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 9 PAN Stories

Developing parks and communities: Winners of the PAN Parks Small Grants Fund

Thanks to the generous grant from the Dutch DOEN Foundation, of the park and the local community.In what follows, our readers this year four parks received support from the PAN Parks can get acquainted with the four projects supported in Bieszczady, Small Grants Fund for projects aimed at improving the condition Fulufjället, Rila and Slovensky raj National Parks.

Community-building in Rila

The inspiring project Bulgarian national parks, the preparation and running of of Rila National Park training courses for people from the Razlog area and the

Photo: RNP combines the promotion production of a Practical Guidebook and Methodology of sustainable tourism for Community Based Ecotourism Development. with community- The expected benefits are threefold: the project opens up building - an aspect new job opportunities for local people, the municipality which is particularly gains new income and economic alternatives, and the important in an area scheme can help build support for the national park in which suffers from local communities around the territory without harming high unemployment, conservation. The shared gains of the project also make migration and the depopulation of villages. it a lot easier to communicate the benefit of sustainable The project goal is to build local capacity for ecotourism tourism to local people. development in the municipality of Razlog and create a model for multiplication in other areas around the national For further information: park. The proposed activities include an analysis of existing Lachezar Ivanov ecotourism practices and experience around the three [email protected]

Visitor management plan in Slovensky raj

The park administration obstacles to PAN Parks verification: to create a zoning in Slovensky raj has long system with at least 10,000 ha of a non-fragmented, strictly demonstrated a commitment protected core area. The communication of PAN Parks to our principles and has certification goals can raise a substantial public support

Photo: Péter Janszky made great effort to qualify and can be effectively used in the negotiation with for PAN Parks membership. authorities and local stakeholders. Project activities include An important step in the the preparation of communication information materials preparation is the project that and the mobilization of PR support for the Management won the support of the PAN Parks Small Grants Fund. Plan of the park and the Visitors´ Management Plan. The project goal is to incorporate the Visitors Management The real “test” is, of course, the PAN Parks verification Plan into the amended Management Plan for Slovensky raj for which the park is committed to apply no later than National Park (2006 - 2016), which would give the the summer of 2006. administration tools for the effective management of the park and sustainable tourism development in the region. For further information: The Visitor Management Plan is expected to help the park Dusan Bevilaqua administration to overcome one of the most important [email protected]

10 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004

Promoting horseback tourism in Bieszczady

The Hutsul horse reintroduction, originally aimed only at Wolosate with Vladivoj Vancura Photo: threatened species conservation, soon turned out to have new saddles and a big potential for local tourist services development in publish a three- Bieszczady. In 1997 the park won the countrywide contest language (Polish- for implementation of a pilot project for horseback tourism English-German) development in Poland under the Phare-Tourin Program. brochure entitled Today, the network of horseback trails covers a total Mountain of 142 km enabling several days of long expeditions. horseback Since horseback tourism is getting more and more popular tourism in the among Polish and foreign visitors, it has become an High Bieszczady important issue to maintain existing marked routes in Mountains. a proper condition. This is a task, however, that many This is expected to facilitate communication with target municipalities cannot afford. The goal of the project is groups of visitors as potential horseback tourist product to improve horseback visitor experience and guarantee customers. The planned outputs include improved marking appropriate conservation surroundings of the existing on 83 km of horse trails, the brochure and an experience marked routes in the Bieszczady PAN Parks region. for horse-riders, which is worth repeating. Within the framework of the project the park intends to improve conditions on the most marked horse trails sections For further information: in the national park and its surroundings, repaint existing Grzegorz Sitko marks, equip the Breeding Farm of Hutsul horses in [email protected]

Educational trail in Duna-Dráva

Nagypartos, a tourist can be visited only with permission. To improve visitor centre in Duna-Dráva experience, the project also involves the development National Park, of facilities at the demonstration site such as fireplaces, is being discovered wooden tables and seats, dustbins, toilets and road Photo: Parks PAN by a growing number maintenance. of visitors, which, As a result of the project, tourists will visit the nature while indicating an trail instead of the Kölked pasture, which will reduce increased interest in the human disturbance and support the preservation of the natural rarities of the high biodiversity of the site. The development of the region, has caused demonstration site will help to inform people of the problems from a nature importance of conservation and the nature-friendly use conservation perspective. of land. The quality visitor experience the park has to The demonstration site of Nagypartos is too small for the offer can be more effective in the development of the tourists, who because of this disturb not only the resting ecological consciousness of the visitors (many of whom and fishing areas of the local population but also the are school children) than any other environmental nearby strictly protected area of Kölked thereby posing education methods. a threat to natural wilderness. The aim of the project is to develop a nature trail on the bank of the Danube, For further information: which will have the benefit of concentrating tourism Laurice Ereifej and disburdening the sensitive and protected areas that [email protected]

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 11 Network News

Eastern Region More satisfied visitors

There is an increasing number of tourists visiting solitude, sport opportunities and the cultural Central Balkan the Central Balkan region in and the sights they wanted to visit. The majority national park has become the major focus of (over 60%) stayed for 3 days. It is worth National interest - these are the first results of a survey noting that 90% declared willingness for conducted on the order of the Directorate of the future visits in the region. Park Central Balkan National Park about public The assessment of the conditions of the opinion of the park in the neighbouring area and park also gave interesting results. The most the visitors’ needs and experience. The final appreciated aspects of the visit were the results of the socio-economic survey will be landscape, the solitude and the experience integrated in the new four-year Strategic Plan of wilderness. The unique natural features of the Directorate as well as in received the maximum score from the the planning and development respondents. It is important to note that in process of sustainable tourism comparison to 1998, visitors expressed a higher in the park and the region. degree of satisfaction with cleanliness, Photo: CBNP The visitor survey found that accommodation and food services. The fact the most common type of that facilities still received considerable criticism visitors were families (56.3 %) (25%), nevertheless, suggests that the park whose main goal was needs to continue their efforts to make the recreation. The most common park a real tourist paradise. reasons to choose the region as destination were nature For further information: qualities and acceptable prices Diana Terzieva but visitors also mentioned [email protected]

Northern Region Tree from the Viking Age

In October Fulufjället National Park organised geological tourist map for Fulufjället National Fulufjället its annual Science Seminar, which was attended Park, which, when accomplished, will be a by about 60 interested people including locals, substantial contribution to park information. National students and scientists. Started in 2002 as an The biologist Jenny Sander presented an attempt to facilitate research in the Fulufjället interesting lecture on the history of forest fires Park area and create a forum for experts and local in Fulufjället, which brought many elderly local people interested in the park and its history, the people into a vivid discussion. From her studies seminar established a tradition, and the people she was quite surprised to learn how old some who came to the event obviously shared the feeling of her samplings were. The oldest piece dated of being members of a greater from the Viking age, the inner year ring from community. This sense of AD 970, the tree died in 1252 and thus has been coming together provided for standing - and lying dead on the ground for over a very positive atmosphere and 700 years. After the lectures, visitors could

Photo: Lisa Oberg friendly environment where participate in excursions related to the seminar people came not just to share topics and observe in the field traces from the ideas but also to meet other forest fires and the geological characteristics ecologically- and communally- of the park. minded people. Two geologists, Claes Mellqvist For further information: and Gunnel Ransed, spoke of Evelina Selander their ongoing work on the [email protected]

12 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004 A promising Italian candidate Southern Region

The Majella Mountain - which Pliny assessment reveals, the park has a the Elder called the Mountains’ Father - strong potential to become a PAN Park. Majella is a high, huge and wild massive in the It is a very professionally managed park, heart of the Apennine Mountains. with clear strategic goals, zonation, National The national park is geographically formed rules for visitors and a full competency by four big parts: the properly called of the park administration to implement Park Majella, Mount Morrone, Mount Porrara main park goals. The partnership with and the Pizzi Mountains. Majella is unique local stakeholders is an important thanks to its position in the Mediterranean part of the management policy, and area, its asperity, wideness and magnificence - in the surrounding villages tourists can it can boast more than 60 peaks, find many local products branded with 30 of which are over 2000 metres. the park logo. Vladivoj Vancura Photo: Located in a network of protected areas, Park managers should, nevertheless, the park has extensive core area and think about how to create the buffer a remarkably diverse flora and fauna. zone and form the Majella PAN Parks The 74,095 hectares of the park territory Group. With the enthusiasm and is home to 1,800 plant species and commitment we experienced in the a high number of rare and endemic park these do not seem to be huge animal species including an almost obstacles to a successful verification. complete collection of native carnivores (bear, wolf, wild cat, marten) but also For further information: Apennine chamois, otter, Apennine Vlado Vancura salamander. As the pre-verification [email protected]

Tatra swept by powerful windstorm Eastern Region

On 19 November 2004, a windstorm swept administrators are concerned that the damage across northern Slovakia causing serious from the storm will not be treated as that of Tatra damage, the most severe of which was to Tatra a natural process. From a conservation National Park. An estimated 12-14,000 ha perspective, it is important for everyone National of forest - between 1.5 and 3 million cubic involved to ensure that the human response meters of timber - were destroyed. to the storm does not cause more damage Park Tatra National Park has recently started than the wind itself. discussions with PAN Parks about verification, The storm has not affected Tatra’s interest and is preparing to sign a letter of intent. in moving towards PAN Parks verification. Calling the event an “ecological disaster,” The director stated that “the windstorm can Slovakian authorities have committed to postpone the final decision when we will ht:TNP Photo: a quick response. Most of the damage be ready for PAN Parks verification but occured to the national park at the edge we definitely need an independent of the old core zone, populated mainly verification to assess effectiveness of our by spruce planted early in the 20th century. management. Support of the PAN Parks A recently proposed new core zone of older and WWF will be very crucial in this growth, species-diverse trees fortunately very hectic time.” suffered relatively little damage. Slovakian NGO officials are cautioning For further information: government and industry to approach renewal Juraj Svajda planning carefully, and Tatra’s park [email protected]

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 13 Travellers’ Stories

Eastern Region The wild heart of the Carpathians

Covering an area larger than the Alps, South Carpathians - Lake Bucura, the largest the Carpathians is the last remaining stronghold lake in Retezat. A surprisingly good gravel road Retezat in Europe for rare animals and also vital as a led us up to the Lapusnicul Mare Valley. bridge between the northern European forest The view from the valley fascinated us: on the National and those to the south and west. Eva Vancurova right side the steep limestone ridges of the visited the wild heart of this beautiful Small Retezat and on the left the huge slope Park region and a new member of the PAN Parks covered with the wild, evergreen forests. network - Retezat National Park. After another hour of walking, we reached the tree line: slim spruce is dominant here but we I was always lured by Retezat. The stories I have also passed many huge cembra pines - the heard from my more courageous friends arouse queen of these mountains - and dwarf pines my curiosity, and this summer together with my growing above the tree line. Another two friend we undertook a more than 900 km long hours of easy hiking and we could see journey to the heart of South Carpathians - Lake Bucura lying at our feet in its awesome Retezat National Park. beauty - huge, dark colored and nobody around! Tired as we were, we decided to From the small hill above Hateg we could hike up to the highest point - Vilfur Peleaga catch the first sight of Retezat. The sight was (2,508 m). The view was breathtaking: sharp indeed marvellous: more than 2,500 m high peaks and emerald-like lakes in every valley peaks soaring above Hateg plain and endless around us. On the way down a group of mountain ridges fading into the distant horizon. 8 chamois passed the tourist trail just The bumpy roads 150 metre aside. But the great adventure led us to Riu Mare was still to come. We were driving back Valley and finally, to the motel in the dark when we were in the pitch dark suddenly confronted with the intensive we parked nearby gaze of two curious, green-sparkling eyes. Photo: Florina Crisan the small Motel Intermission. It took us some minutes to Dumravica. realise that we had bumped into a brown bear. Wilderness took Blinded by the car-lights, he was staring at hold of us: we had us for a while but then apparently recovered lost mobile signal and escaped from the road. We could not and for the next five believe our eyes. We read in the brochure days we could that we were supposed to be in “bear country” find only 3 “secret” but can we really be so lucky? A careful tracking spots where we with flash light revealed nice footprints in could call our the mud with a diameter of 13 cm accompanied families and friends. by several smaller ones. It was a mother bear with at least 1-2 cubs. Next morning the weather was sunny, In the following days we accomplished a 2-day warm but with a hike to Small Retezat and Masiv Godeanu clear feeling of the and we explored the northern part of the park. coming autumn. We fell so much in love with the place that Our destination we decided to return in the spring. There are was the hot spot so many more things we want to see there! of this newly appearing hiking Marvellous sights await you in Retezat destination in the by Eva Vancurova

14 PAN PARKS COURIER WINTER 2004 Our Partners

PAN Parks PAN Parks People

Oulanka National Park

Zoltán Kun Executive Director Fulufjället National Park PAN Parks Foundation c/o WWF, PF 264, 9002 Gyôr, Hungary Tel: +36 96 433 925 Fax: +36 96 519 786 Mobile: +36 30 916 7795 e-mail: [email protected]

Bieszczady National Park Vladivoj Vancura PAN Parks Foundation Conservation Manager Retezat National Park PAN Parks Foundation c/o WWF, PF 264, 9002 Gyôr, Hungary Central Balkan National Park Tel: +421 44 522 3436 Fax: +421 44 522 1214 Mobile: +421 907 816 067 e-mail: [email protected] Name of area: Fulufjället National Park Name of area: Oulanka National Park Country: Sweden Country: Finland Area (ha): 38 483 Area (ha): 27 500 Number of visitors per year: 40 000 Number of visitors per year: 150 000 www.dalarna.se/fulufjallet www.metsa.fi/natural/nationalparks/oulanka Edit Borza Communications Manager PAN Parks Foundation c/o WWF, Name of area: Bieszczady National Park Name of area: Central Balkan National Park Country: Poland Country: Bulgaria PF 264, 9002 Gyôr, Hungary Area (ha): 29 200 Area (ha): 71 669 Tel: +36 1 214 5554 Number of visitors per year: 250 000 Number of visitors per year: 25 000 www.mos.gov.pl/kzpn/ind_gb.htm www.centralbalkannationalpark.org Fax: +36 1 212 9353 e-mail: [email protected]

Name of area: Retezat National Park Country: Romania Area (ha): 38 047 Sue Clark Number of visitors per year: 8 000 Marketing Manager Molecaten, Molecaten 1, Other co-operating national parks 8051PN Hattem, the Netherlands These areas are working for PAN Parks Abruzzo National Park, Italy (2007) Tel: +31 73 611 1024 verification. In brackets are the expected Rila National Park, Bulgaria (2005) Fax: +31 73 611 1025 dates of verification. Slovensky raj National Park, Slovakia (2006) e-mail: [email protected] Triglav National Park , Slovenia (2005)

Mylene van der Donk International business partners Marketing Assistant Molecaten, Molecaten 1, PAN Parks Accommodation BV, Fulufjällsbyn, Sweden - Gerben Weening, 8051 PN Hattem, the Netherlands [email protected], www.panparksaccommodation.com SNP Natuurreizen, the Netherlands - Gert Nieuwboer, [email protected], www.snp.nl Tel: +31 76 513 9073 Trailfinders, the Netherlands - Hans Hoff, [email protected], www.trailfinders.nl Mobile: +31 6 4188 6633 James van Leuven, the Netherlands - [email protected], www.jamesvanleuven.nl e-mail: [email protected]

WINTER 2004 PAN PARKS COURIER 15