Volume 13 Number 6 July/August 2004 HERITAGE

Vancouver N e w s l e t t e r

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4 5 6 ’s Hidden Heritage by Stephen Mikicich

hen we think of heritage in Vancouver, the images that houses escaped demolition because of challenges arising in typically come to mind are of grand Shaughnessy assembling property, shifting market demand, the decline of tradi- mansions, the painted Victorians of Strathcona and tional industries, and the City’s purchase of certain properties for WMount Pleasant, the Craftsman streetscapes of Kitsilano, proposed public works projects that have not proceeded. Edwardian commercial buildings in the downtown core, and Art For years, these vernacular buildings provided rooming-house Deco treasures such as the and Burrard Street accommodation, and office and warehouse space — or stood Bridge. A number of high-profile rehabilitation projects such as vacant, awaiting redevelopment. As holding properties, the build- Sinclair Centre, Barclay Heritage Square, the Roundhouse ings themselves had little if any value and were allowed to dete- Community Centre, and Pacific Heights Housing Co-op and riorate. Today, we are fortunate that many of these buildings have Mole Hill in the West End have also raised public awareness. survived long enough to be ‘rediscovered’ in the current wave of But some of Vancouver’s oldest buildings are located off the gentrification sweeping East Vancouver neighbourhoods. beaten path, nestled between warehouses and manufacturing While it is municipal policy to retain these lands for future plants in the city’s inner industrial areas. In pockets of industrial use, a number of factors are influencing land-use Strathcona, Grandview, Mount Pleasant, Fairview, Yaletown change and the preservation of heritage resources. First, general and even Kitsilano (as the accompanying photographs illustrate), changes in manufacturing, warehousing and distribution tech- many late Victorian and early Edwardian houses remain. nologies have dramatically altered industrial location and land use These inner-city industrial areas started out as residential requirements. Rising property values are displacing traditional neighbourhoods, but transformation to industrial use began as industries, and land is being converted to other uses, including early as the 1920s and continued through the 1970s. Some commercial and residential. There is a blurring of definitions See page 2 Hidden Heritage

Cover photos: Stephen Mikicich Photos 1-2 Strathcona, 3-4 Grandview, 5-6 Mount Pleasant from page 1 Hidden Heritage Bridge Celebrates 100th Birthday between land uses, as evidenced by the rise of ‘mixed-use’ and ‘live-work’ developments. As well, gentrification has attracted more upscale tenants such as estled below the spans of SkyBridge photographic studios, athletic clubs, and the Patullo Bridge, a Greater personal and business services. VancouverN landmark celebrates its 100th It seems that we are now reaping the birthday. One hundred benefits of “preservation by neglect” — years ago, on Saturday, July 23, 1904, as areas once considered highly undesir- Lieutenant Governor Sir Henri Gustave able are turning into funky, historic, Joly de Lotbiniere and Premier Sir mixed-use neighbourhoods. This trend is Richard McBride officially opened the most apparent in Mount Pleasant, north Opening of rail/highway bridge Fraser River Bridge, the first structure to Fraser River - 1904 of Broadway, and on the edges of Credit: G.F. Treleaven, The Surrey Story, 1970 Strathcona and Grandview-Woodlands; span the Fraser River between New it is also visible in the industrial areas Westminster and Surrey. and the upper deck for vehicles and around the Flats. In the last 20 years of the 19th century, pedestrians. Tolls were charged until Most of these old houses are not listed the only passage to the Surrey side was March 1910. When the high-level in the City of Vancouver’s Heritage a ferry service to the village of Patullo Bridge was opened in 1937, the Register, as the lands they occupy are Brownsville. Finally, in August 1902, upper deck of the original bridge was designated for industrial use. However, the Province of started removed. given that these buildings are now valued construction; the bridge was completed After 100 years, the bridge still serves in the marketplace for their heritage in July 1904 at a cost of $1,000,000. The appeal, and many of them are now being its original function of carrying rail traffic new crossing was hailed locally as “a restored, it makes sense that the City’s across the Fraser. Recent newspaper Heritage Register be updated to include magnificent structure of stone and steel” articles hint at the possible need for a these excellent examples of early and “one of the great engineering feats replacement structure to accommodate vernacular buildings. of the century.” A huge crowd came out planned fast trains between Vancouver The City of Vancouver’s Industrial to view the opening ceremonies, which and Seattle. This, in Heritage Lands policies are also up for review by included a procession of ships, canoe Vancouver’s opinion, is not good news 2005. As part of this review, consider- races, a luncheon and, at night, a fire- — this early transportation landmark ation should be given to existing heritage works display, illumination of the bridge, could soon become yet another victim resources, and the merits of preservation and a torchlight procession. of technological change. Every effort and re-use versus demolition. An updated Unlike modern bridges, the bridge’s land use and design vision for these areas must be made to ensure the bridge is low steel truss spans provide little should build upon long-established either sensitively upgraded, or saved and industries, historic buildings, and historic clearance, requiring a ‘swing span’ that adapted for other uses such as bicycles elements such as period paving and pivots open to allow marine traffic to and foot traffic. landscaping to create more distinctive pass. Like other bridges of the period, the industrial neighbourhoods. This would structure was designed to accommodate Happy Birthday Fraser River Bridge, be in keeping with the sustainable two decks, the lower deck for trains, and many more! development principles being advocated for Southeast False Creek and the False Creek Flats — principles that include the re-use of limited resources, and the Of Interest... reduction of stress on the natural and human environments. Heritage Schools: Good news!! In late Asian Heritage: Welcome to the Chinese In summary, we need to explore May, the Ministry of Education funded an Canadian Historical Society of British means to encourage further heri- accelerated process to identify all provin- Columbia (CCHS), the goal of which tage preservation within our rapidly cial schools requiring seismic upgrading. is “to bring out the unknown history of changing inner city. The remaining Between June and October, all public the Chinese in this province.”Of inter- early houses in the inner industrial schools in high-risk earthquake zones est to Heritage Vancouver members, areas represent the first layer of — as many as 800 schools in the 39 its activities have already included the neighbourhood development; togeth- er with factories, warehouses, offices, school districts — are to be assessed for co-sponsoring of a series of lectures on corner stores, railway tracks and seismic need. The Ministry will then pre- Vancouver Chinatown Revitalization; remnants of old paving, they provide pare a long-range plan for school safety. future projects include exploration of the raw materials for building new, The hope is that all needy schools will the historical identities of Vancouver’s sustainable communities, with a strong be upgraded within 10 to 15 years. We Chinatown business sites. For further link to our city’s industrial past. hope this means retention of many of the information contact: Edgar Wickberg, heritage structures that contribute to the [email protected]; Jean Barman education of Vancouver’s children. [email protected]; Larry Wong [email protected]; and Imogene Lim [email protected] ADVOCACY UPDATE

Hastings Park/PNE sites Heritage Vancouver continues to Woodward’s Department Store The hectic pace of public discus- press Council; in a open letter, the (101 W. Hastings Street) sion about Hastings Park/PNE issue Board writes: The City has unveiled the three continues. City staff presented a final proposals for redevelop- report and recommendations to Dear Mayor Campbell and ment of the Woodward’s Building Council on May 18: of critical Members of Council submitted by Westbank Projects, importance was the evidence from July 13, 2004 Concert Properties and Millennium public opinion surveys that most Development Corporation. Vancouverites, including those living Re: PNE/Hastings Park in the Hastings Park area, support Dear Mayor and Council; All three design proposals would add the retention of park and Playland new buildings or towers to the site in — and heritage. Speakers at the We write to you on behalf of our mem- the 100-block of West Hastings, and three City Council public hearings in bership regarding Council’s latest deci- all would open up the old department early June confirmed these findings. sions related to PNE/Hastings Park. store building to allow public access Acting on the results of this con- We commend Council on what to a central courtyard. All three pro- sultation, City Council voted, at its appears to be the retention of the posals would retain the big “W” that 22 June meeting, to accept a modi- roller coaster as a permanent feature has marked the Vancouver skyline for fied version of Options 3 & 4, thus of Playland. The Coaster has, as decades. Two would keep it approxi- retaining both the PNE and Playland. you know, long been a critical issue mately where it is on the roof of the The Roller Coaster seems secure for Heritage Vancouver, appear- old store. The third would bring it and may well act as the the southern ing regularly in its annual listing of down to the ground and use it as a anchor to a relocated Playland. So Vancouver’s Top Ten Endangered monumental feature of the courtyard. too do the three buildings on the Sites. The Roller Coaster is one of We hope that you attended one of Heritage Register — the A-listed the last remaining wooden roller the open houses held during July, Garden Auditorium and the B-listed coasters in North America, one of and we welcome any feedback. Forum and Rollerland. the world’s highest when it opened The public process resumes in But the fate of the Livestock in 1958, and continues to be a sig- September and the critical dates are: Building is still unknown. The good nificant tourist attraction. We look news is that the Hastings Park/PNE forward to its continued operation • Thursday, September 9/Open Steering Committee consulted the in Playland. House/W Room, 101 W. Hastings Heritage Commission and that it spe- We remain concerned, how- Street/6 - 8 pm. City staff will pro- cifically cited Heritage Vancouver’s ever, about the fate of the Livestock vide an overview of their recommen- concern about the Livestock Building. The Livestock Building is dation to Council. Building in its report to Council. In significant both for its Streamline turn, Council specifically directed Moderne Architecture (designed by • Wednesday September 15/Special staff to report back on “the heritage McCarter & Nairne, famed architects Council Hearing/City Hall Council value of the Livestock Building and of the Marine Building, in 1939) and Chambers/2-6 p.m. and again at the costs associated with the restora- for the role it played in the province’s 7.30 if required. Public Hearing tion of the barns.” internment of the Japanese during of delegations. Next steps are resolution of the WWII. The building should continue racetrack/slot machines issue and the to play a vital role in a revitalized Heritage Vancouver strongly decision about the modified version Hastings Park. favours the Concert Properties pro- of the conceptual plan. At its July 26 Both the Livestock Building and posal as being most respectful to meeting, City Council will review the Roller Coaster are integral ele- the heritage building and its historic the response of the public hearings ments of a vibrant Hastings Park. We context. We are presently preparing to the proposal to allow 600 slot look forward to a positive resolution a letter to City Council outlining our machines at Hastings Park. The staff of these issues. position. This will reach the Council reports about the modified version (with copy to all HV members) in etc. will probably return to Council Yours truly, late summer. in September. Decisions about the As always, please consult the City future shape of Hasting Park/PNE Heritage Vancouver Board of website for the most current news. should be complete by fall 2004. Directors www.city.vancouver.bc.ca/woodwards/ HeritageHeritage Vancouver Vancouver MembersMembers Get Get 10% 10% Off Off VANCOUVER Mark Your Calendar HERITAGE

museum Tours & Expeditions presents VancouverPRESENTS to October 28/Tours of Arthur Erickson Garden/Thursdays at 5:00 p.m., or Sunday August 15 Walking Tour, Monday and Thursday afternoons False Creek Urban Heritage Trail for groups of 3 or more. 1-3 p.m. Rain or shine The best gifts $10. Reserve at 604-738-4195 Meeting point: or email [email protected] Brewery (see map at http://www.dis covervancouver.com/maps/granville_ Heritage Walks with John Atkin island_map.html in history! Wednesdays, rain or shine, 7.00 p.m. Please preregister by leaving your Members $5; Non-members $10 name and phone number or email For more information call 604.734.7368 address on the HV voicemail The Vancouver Museum Store or visit www.johnatkin.com. (604-254-9411) A hit with locals and tourists Sunday August 22/Tour of Hycroft alike, the Vancouver Museum Manor, 1489 McRae Avenue, Vancouver/ Don Alexander and Brendan Hurley, Store has an eclectic blend of 2 p.m. meet under the port cochere. who developed the False Creek art, jewelry and exhibit related Tour organized by Vancouver Historical Urban Heritage Trail Guidebook Society. merchandise, from hand- described in the April 2004 crafted First Nations jewelry to September 25 & 26/Town Hall Seattle, Newsletter, will guide us through beautiful coffee-table books, 1119 Eighth Avenue at Seneca Street/10 a section of the trail eastward from you will truly find the best am-4 pm 2004 Bungalow & Craftsman Granville Island. We will hop on gifts in history. Home Fair & Lectures the heritage tram as well. See http://www.cityofseattle.net/commnty/ newcity.ca/Pages/false_creek_trail.pd histsea/events/#fair Cost: $5 members; $10 general public September 16, 7.30 p.m. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10-5 Register: Call Historic Seattle at Vancouver Museum 1100 Chestnut St., Vancouver 206.622.6952 ext. 234 General Meeting (just over the Burrard St. Bridge) tel: 604-736-4431 ext. 387 In its seventh year, Historic Seattle hosts October 21, 7.30 p.m. www.vanmuseum.bc.ca over 50 craftspeople in metal, tile, glass, Vancouver Museum textiles, ceramics, and lighting; Heritage Vancouver architects; interior designers; and Annual General Meeting. antique dealers at Town Hall Seattle. The fair is an opportunity to learn about early 20th century architecture and design and to ask questions and get answers from knowledgeable people in the field. Join Heritage Vancouver Membership valid one year from date of issue. Members receive a Name: monthly newsletter and reduced rates for tours and other activities. Address: City: Charitable donation #1073758-52. Membership fees are Postal Code: Telephone: E-mail: not tax deductible.

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Editor: Sharon Meen [email protected] Newsletter design by Piper Design [email protected] / 604.266.2569