©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 460

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Anita Isalska Many thanks to the travellers who used the My research in was hugely enriched last edition and wrote to us with helpful by the people I met on the road. I’m especially hints, useful advice and interesting anec- thankful for the tips and insights from Slavo dotes: Julie Cowan, Peter Stumvoll, Ramadan Stankovič, Marek Leskovjanský, Erik Ševčík, Besim, Sandra Buchanan, Simone Mollard Jiri Sikora, the incredibly helpful tourist office teams in , Žilina and Martin, and pret- ty much everyone in friendly Košice. Big hugs WRITER THANKS to Normal Matt for being an invaluable write-up morale-booster. Greg Bloom Big thanks to pop for tagging along and lending Tom Masters anecdotes, insight and much bar research. To Many thanks to Valmir, Emin, Esra, Granit, Callie, who couldn’t wait until after my dead- Shemsi and Lorik in Pristina, to Shpendi, line to arrive: you were so worth the sleepless Joard, Mateo, Renato and Rita in Tirana, and nights. To her mama, Windi, T.Y. for keeping it to dozens of hostel owners around both coun- together while I was away. To Callie’s sister, tries who supplied such helpful information, Anna, thanks always for keeping me sane. On especially to Walter in Gjirokastra, Catherine the road, thanks to Nikolai (Minsk) and Leonid in Valbona, Roza in Shkodra, and the crews at (Chişinău), and to Mike T and Fabian M, respec- Driza’s House in Prizren, Tirana Backpacker’s tively, for setting me up with them. Hostel in Tirana and Hostel Saraç in Peja. Spe- cial thanks also to Jimmy in Theth for being a Mark Elliott good Samaritan when I had car trouble! Countless kind Bosnians (and Hercegovinians, too) offered more help than I have space to Lorna Parkes acknowledge. Enormous thanks to the great A huge thank you to the friendly people of philosophers at Savat, to Kate Hunt for so Macedonia who helped guide me through bad much emotion, Wangdi for the space and signposting, lost trail markers, GPS black holes sustenance, and to Harriet Einsiedel, Izzy and and the basics of Cyrillic. Your warmth and Shashka for the amazing coincidences. Love good nature is a testament to your country. and endless gratitude beyond words to my Equal thanks go to my husband, Rob, without unbeatable family. whom I would not have been able to do this 461 job, both mentally and physically, and my beautiful son, Austin, who patiently waited for ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS my return. Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of Leonid Ragozin the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol- Huge thanks to Olexiy Skrypnik, Serhiy ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Savchuk and Yevhen Stepanenko for helping

Cover photograph: Fresco, Rila Monastery, SCENES THE BEHIND me to explore Lviv. Another jumbo plane of Bulgaria. Walter Bibikow / AWL © gratitude goes to Lena Lebedinskaya, Ruslan Popkov and their wonderful friends in Odesa. Finally, thank you, Masha Makeeva, for endur- ing my long absences.

Tamara Sheward Every time I go to Serbia, the hvala list gets outrageously longer; if I keep this up, I’ll be trying to cram 7.13 million names into this tiny space. To whittle down the numbers somewhat, I’ll offer my undying gratitude to the Lučić and Eremić families, Srdjan (the lifesaver) and Gordana, the NS Kitchen Col- lective, the wonderful folks of Šekspirova, and Brana Vladisavljevic at LP. My Dušan and Ma- sha, may 10000 trubači bands forever toot in your honour: poljupci zauvek!

Senior Cartographer Assisting Cartographer THIS BOOK Mark Griffiths Valentina Kremenchutskaya This 14th edition of Lonely Book Designer Mazzy Prinsep Cover Researcher Planet’s Eastern Europe Assisting Editors Janet Naomi Parker guidebook was curated by Austin, Sarah Bailey, Michelle Thanks to Cheree Broughton, Mark Baker, Greg Bloom, Peter Bennett, Kate Chapman, Katie Jennifer Carey, David Carroll, Dragicevich, Marc Di Duca, Connolly, Melanie Dankel, Kate Chapman, Neill Coen, Anita Isalska, Tom Masters, Bruce Evans, Sam Forge, Daniel Corbett, Joel Cotterell, Hugh McNaughtan, Lorna Carly Hall, Trent Holden, Kate Shona Gray, Jane Grisman, Parkes, Leonid Ragozin, Tim James, Amy Karafin, Kellie Andi Jones, Ivan Kovanovic, Richards, Simon Richmond, Langdon, Jodie Martire, Anne Borbála Molnár-Ellis, Catherine Tamara Sheward and Anna Mulvaney, Rosie Nicholson, Naghten, Claire Naylor, Karyn Tyler. This guidebook was Lauren O’Connell, Kristin Odijk, Noble, Bridget Nurre Jenn- produced by the following: Charlotte Orr, Monique Perrin, ions,, Martine Power, Rachel Destination Editors Gemma Sarah Reid, Gabbi Stefanos, Rawling, Kirsten Rawlings, Graham, Lauren Keith, Anna Saralinda Turner, Fionnuala Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, Tyler, Branislava Vladisavljevic Twomey Dora Whitaker Product Editors Anne Mason, Jenna Myers ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 462

Index

A art galleries, see museums 17, 362-70, 364, 17 Braşov 319-22, 321 accommodation 23, 426-8, & galleries accommodation 363-5 Bratislava 377-84, 380 see also individual 14 drinking & nightlife 367-8 accommodation 379-81 locations ASTRA National Museum entertainment 368-9 activities 379 Complex 324 Accursed Mountains 18, food 365-6 drinking & nightlife 382 ATMs 431 50-1, 18 sights & activities 362-3 entertainment 382-3 Auschwitz-Birkenau 295 activities 28-32, see also tourist information 369 food 382 individual activities, travel to/from 370 individual locations history 377 travel within 370 airports 436 B shopping 383 Balatonfüred 193-4 Belavezhskaya Pushcha air travel sights 377-9 Banat 328-31 National Park 68 to/from Eastern tourist information 383 Berat 52-3 Europe 436 , see churches & tours 379 cathedrals bicycle travel, see cycling within Eastern travel to/from 383-4 Europe 437 bathrooms 434 Bitola 256 travel within 384 Albania 42-57, 43 Bay of Kotor 13, 272, 13 Bjelašnica 78 Brest 66-8 accommodation 57 beaches 24 Bjelave 73 breweries business hours 56 Albania 54 Bjeshkët e Namuna 50-1 Brewery Museum 149 climate 42 Belgrade 363 Black Sea Coast 19, Jan Olbracht 309 102-6, costs 56, 57 Black Sea Coast 19 Old Town Brewery 246 (Bulgaria) 102-6 Bled 403-5 food 42, 55, 56 Pilsner Urquell Budva 272 Bled Island 403-4 highlights 43 Brewery 149 Dubrovnik 127 boats, see ferry travel itineraries 44 Sabaja Craft Keszthely 195 Bohemia 148-53 Brewery 206 money 56 Lake Balaton 193 Bohinj 405-7 bridges public holidays 56 Nesebâr 103 border crossings 438 Charles Bridge 12, telephone services 56 Novi Sad 372 Bosnia & Hercegovina 138-9, 12 travel to/from 57 Odesa 421 70-85, 71 Crooked Bridge 81 Albanian Riviera 54 Ohrid 249 accommodation 70, 85 Stari Most 79 Altja 172 Pärnu 175 business hours 84 Brno 153-6 archaeological sites Sozopol 105 climate 70 Bucharest 313-19, Ancient Serdica 314 Complex 88 Varna 102 costs 85 accommodation 316-17 Butrint 53 Bear Sanctuary food 70, 84, 85 drinking & nightlife 317 Pristina 207 Diocletian’s Palace 120-1 highlights 71 entertainment 318 Heraclea Lyncestis 256 Belarus 58-69, 59 history 79 food 317 Kazanlâk tombs 98 accommodation 58, 69 internet access 84 shopping 318 Medijana 374 business hours 68 itineraries 72 sights 313-16 Salona 121 climate 58 money 84 tourist information 318 Sirmium Imperial Palace costs 69 postal services 84 travel to/from 318-19 Complex 371 food 58, 65, 69 public holidays 84-5 travel within 319 architecture 27, 152, 219, highlights 59 safety 85 11, 181-91, 184, 297, 326 itineraries 60 travel to/from 85 186, 11 money 69 visas 85 accommodation 185-7 telephone services 69 Bovec 407-8 drinking 188-9 travel to/from 69 Boyana 94 entertainment 189 Map Pages 000 travel within 69 Brajčino 255 festivals 185 Photo Pages 000 visas 69 Bran Castle 12, 322, 12 food 187-8 463 shopping 189-90 Car Samoil’s Fortress Postojna Cave 408 Cathedral of St John the sights & activities 182-5 250-1 Predjama cave system Baptist (Racławice) tourist information 190 Catherine Palace 353 409 300 travel to/from 190 Cēsis Castle 223 Škocjan Caves 408 Church of Mariánska Hora 389 travel within 191 Český Krumlov State cell phones 22, 433-4 Castle 150 cemeteries Church of Our Lady Budapest Spring Before Týn 138 Festival 29 Citadela (Budva) 272 Antakalnis INDEX (Budapest) 182 Cemetery 229 Church of Our Lady of budgeting 23 Ljeviš 209 Budva 272-4 Devín Castle 384 Capuchin Monastery 153-4 Church of Rozhdestvo Bulgaria 86-107, 87 Dubrovnik forts 126 Bogorodichno 95  B-C 185 accommodation 86, 106 Eger Castle 198

 Church of St Lychakiv Cemetery 419 climate 86 Festetics Palace 195 Euphemia 116 Mirogoj 109-10 costs 106, 107 Fortica 124 Church of St James 138 Old Church & food 86, 105, 107 Gediminas Castle 228 Church of St John the Cemetery 298 gay & lesbian travellers Gjirokastra Castle 54 Baptist 406 Cēsis 223-4 106 Kalaja 52 Church of Sveti Andrej Český Krumlov 20, 150-3, highlights 87 Kalemegdan Citadel 362 247 151, 20 itineraries 89 Karlštejn Castle 147-8 Church of Sveti Jovan at Cetinje 278-9 travel to/from 106-7 Ljubljana Castle 398 Kaneo 249, 17 Charles Bridge 12, 138- travel within 107 Lobkowicz Palace 136 Church of the Deposition 9, 12 of the Robe 341 visas 106 Lublin Castle 295 Chernobyl 420 Church of the Holy bunkers 45 Malbork Castle 307 children, travel with 428 Cross 284-5 Burgas 104 Mir Castle 66 Chişinău 259-64, 262 Church of the Saviour on bus travel Niš Fortress 374 Chopin, Frédéric 285 the Spilled Blood 347 to/from Eastern Europe Njasvizh Castle 65-6 Chopin Museum 285 Latin Cathedral 420 437 Old Royal Palace Chornobyl 420 Loreta 136 within Eastern Europe () 136 Matthias Church 182 438-9 Palace of the Grand churches & cathedrals Nativity of Christ business hours 432, see Dukes of Lithuania Aleksander Nevski Cathedral 215 also individual locations 228 Cathedral 88 Nativity of Christ Peter & Paul Fortress Alexander Nevsky Metropolitan 347 Orthodox Cathedral Cathedral 260 C Petrovaradin Citadel 371 164 cable cars Annunciation Cathedral Old Princely Court Prague Castle 136, 137 Dubrovnik 127 341 Church 315 Predjama Castle 409 Kasprowy Wierch Cable Archangel Cathedral 341 Orthodox Metropolitan Prizren Fortress 209 Cathedral 329 Car 298 Assumption Cathedral Mt Tâmpa 320 Râşnov Fortress 322 341 Plaošnik 249-50 camping 426, 428 Reök Palace 197 of St Poznań Cathedral 302 canoeing 308, 407 Royal Castle Stephen 183 Reformed Church 329 (Warsaw) 284 Canyon Matka 247-8 Benedictine Abbey Rīga Cathedral 214 Royal Compound car travel Church 194 Saviour Monastery of St (Belgrade) 363 Black Church 319 Euthymius 346 to/from Eastern Europe Rozafa Fortress 49 437 Boyana Church 94 Sedlec Ossuary 148 Rundāle Palace within Eastern Europe Cathedral of Christ the Spiš Chapter 390 439-40 Sighişoara Citadel 322 Saviour 340 St Anne’s Church 229 Carpathian Mountains Soroca Fortress 266 Cathedral of SS John St Basil’s Cathedral 297-9 Špilberk Castle 154 the Baptist & John the 337, 15 cash 431 Spiš Castle 390 Evangelist 308 St Donatus’ Church 118 castles, fortresses & Tsarevets Fortress 100 Cathedral of St Dmitry St Francis Xavier Church palaces 24 Turaida Museum 346 & Monastery 233 Asen’s Fortress 97 Reserve 222 Cathedral of St St Isaac’s Cathedral 347 Domnius (Diocletian’s Tvrdina Kale St Martin’s Cathedral Barbican 284 Palace) 121 Fortress 242 377 Bendery Fortress 267 Cathedral of St Wawel Royal Castle St Mary’s Basilica Biljarda 278 Elizabeth 392 289-91 (Kraków) 292 Bled Castle 404 Cathedral of St cathedrals, see churches & St Mary’s Church Bran Castle 12, 322, 12 George 409 cathedrals (Gdańsk) 305 Bratislava Castle 377 Cathedral of St John caves St Mary’s Evangelical the Baptist Brest Fortress 67 Church (Sibiu) 324 Cave Vrelo 248 (Lublin) 296 Brukenthal Palace 324 Dobšinská Ice Cave 391 464 St Mary’s Lutheran business hours 132 sights 126-7 Poland 310 Cathedral 164 climate 108 tourist information 131 Romania 331 St Michael’s Church costs 131, 132 travel to/from 131 Gdańsk 304-7, 304 325-6 food 108, 130, 132 travel within 131 Gierłoż 308 St Moritz Cathedral 156 highlights 110 Durmitor National Park Giżycko 308 St Nicholas’ Cathedral itineraries 114 279-81 Gjirokastra 54-6

INDEX INDEX (Braşov) 319-20 public holidays 132 Golden Ring 345-7 St Nicholas Church (Prague) 139 telephone services 132 E Golem Grad 254 St Nikolaiv Church tourist information 132 Eger 198-9 Gorky Park 337 C-H (Brest) 66 travel to/from 133 electricity 429 Gospa od Škrpjela 276  travel within 133 St Olaf’s Church 165 emergencies 429 Great Masurian  Lakes 308 St Peter’s Church 214 visas 132 Estonia 162-79, 163 St Sophia’s Curonian Spit 18, 236-7, 18 accommodation 162, 178 Great Plain 197-8 Cathedral 413 currency 22 climate 162 Grūtas Park 233 St Stephen’s cycling 437-8 costs 178, 179 Cathedral 124 Bratislava 379 food 162, 177, 179 H St Tryphon’s Cathedral Curonian Spit 18, 237, 18 gay &lesbian health 429-30 275 Riga 218 travellers 178 Heraclea Lyncestis 256 St Vitus Cathedral 136 Tallinn 168 highlights 163 Hercegovina, see Bosnia & Stavropoleos Church 315 Zagreb 113 itineraries 165 Hercegovina Sveta Bogorodica Czech Beer Festival 29 telephone services 178 Hermitage 16, 351, 16 Bolnička & Sveti Nikola Bolnički 250 134-61, 135 tourist information 178 Hévíz 195 Sveta Petka accommodation 134, 158 travel to/from 179 High Tatras 14, 386-9, 14 Samardzhiiska Church business hours 158 travel within 179 hiking 24-5 88 climate 134 visas 179 Accursed Mountain 18, Sveta Sofia Church costs 158, 160 Estonian Open-Air 50-1, 18 (Sofia) 88 food 134, 159, 160 Museum 168 Bled 404 Sveta Sofija Cathedral gay & lesbian Esztergom 192 Durmitor National (Ohrid) 250 travellers 158 events see festivals Park 279 Sveti Georgi Rotunda 88 highlights 135 exchange rates 23 High Tatras 386 Sveti Sava Temple 363 itineraries 138 EXIT Festival 30 Pelister National Park Sveti Spas Church 242 money 159 255-6 Sveti Stefan Church 103 public holidays 159 Rugova Mountains 208 Vilnius Cathedral 228 F safety 386 telephone services 159 farm tourism 427 Wawel Cathedral 291 Zakopane 298 travel to/from 159-60 Ferdinand, Franz 72 citadels, see castles, Hill of Crosses 235 travel within 160-1 ferry travel fortresses & palaces historic sites 25 visas 159 to/from Eastern Europe City Walls Dubrovnik 126 437 Andriyivsky Uzviz 413 climate 22, 28-32, see also within Eastern Europe Auschwitz-Birkenau 295 individual locations D 438 Hrnčiarska 392 Cluj-Napoca 325-8 Dalmatia 117-31 festivals 28-32, see also Majdanek 296 dangers, see safety communist relics 26 individual locations hitching 440 Danube Bend 191-2 concentration camps food 26, 399-401, see also homestays 427 Danube Delta 326 Auschwitz-Birkenau 295 individual locations horse riding Debrecen 198 Red Cross Concentration fortresses, see castles, Bled 404 Camp 374 Dihovo 255 fortresses & palaces Mavrovo National Majdanek 296 Diocletian’s Palace 120-1 Park 249 convents, see monasteries disabilities, travellers with Hoxha, Enver 54 & convents 434-5 G Gagauzia 261 Hradčany 136 corruption 432-3 discount cards 428-9 Galičnik 249 Hrebienok 386 credit cards 431 Dracula 322 galleries, see musems & Hrodna 66 Croatia 11, 108-33, 110 Dragalevtsi 94 galleries 180-201, 181 accommodation 108, driving, see car travel gardens, see parks & accommodation 180, 131-2 Drvengrad 373 gardens 200 activities 122 Dubrovnik 13, 126-31, gay travellers 430-1 climate 180 , 128 13 Bulgaria 106 costs 200 accommodation 127-9 Czech Republic 158 food 180, 200, 201 Map Pages 000 activities 127 Estonia 178 highlights 181 Photo Pages 000 food 129-30 Latvia 225 itineraries 182 465 money 200 K accommodation 212 costs 256, 257 telephone services 200 Kableshkov, Todor 99 climate 212 food 240, 254, 257 tourist information 200 Kadare, Ismail 54 food 212, 222 highlights 241 travel to/from 200-1 Kalamaja 165 highlights 213 itineraries 245 travel within 201 Kaliningrad 354 itineraries 214 money 256-7 visas 200 Karlštejn 147-8 telephone services 225 travel to/from 257 Hvar Island 124-6, 11 Karst 408-10 travel to/from 225 travel within 257 INDEX Kaunas 233-5 travel within 225 Malá Strana 138-9 kayaking Latvian Ethnographic Małopolska 289-97

I  H-M Open-Air Museum 220 183 insurance 430 Bled 404 Durmitor National Park legal matters 430 markets  health 429 279-80 Lenin, Vladimir Ilych 337 Bratislava Christmas vehicle 439-40 Elafiti Islands 127 Lenin’s Mausoleum markets 379 internet access 430 Lake Balaton 193 (Moscow) 337 Cheese Market (Peja) internet resources 23 Lake Matka 248 lesbian travellers 430-1 208 travel advisories 434 Kazanlâk 98 Bulgaria 106 Danilovsky Market 342 island hopping 11 Kazimierz 292 Czech Republic 158 Dolac Market 109 islands Keszthely 194-5 Estonia 178 Izmaylovsky Market 344 Bled Island 403-4 Klaipėda 235-6 Latvia 225 Ljubljana Central Market Elafiti Islands 127 398 Konjic 78 Poland 310 Golem Grad 254 Rīga Central Market 215 Koprivshtitsa 99-100 Romania 331 Gospa od Škrpjela 276 mausoleums, see also Korčula 117 Levoča 389 Hvar Island 124-6 cemeteries Košice 391-3 LGBT travellers see gay Lokrum 127 travellers, lesbian Lenin’s Mausoleum 337 Margaret Island 183 Kosovo 202-11, 203, 13 travellers Njegoš Mausoleum 277 accommodation 202 Paklemi Islands 125, 11 Lithuania 226-39, 227 Tito’s Mausoleum 362 business hours 210-11 Sveti Djordje 276 accommodation 226, Mavrovo National Park climate 202 Sveti Ivan 105 237 248-9 food 202, 206 Istria 115-17 business hours 237 Melnik 95-6 highlights 203 climate 226 itineraries 33-40, 33, 34, Mezhyhirya 419 itineraries 205 35, 36, 38, 39, 40 costs 238, 239 Mikołajki 308 public holidays 211 food 226, 237 Mileştii Mici 18, 265, 18 travel to/from 211 highlights 227 Minsk 20, 60-5, 62, 20 J travel within 211 itineraries 228 accommodation 61 Jahorina 78 visas 211 money 237 drinking 63-4 Janče 248-9 Kotor 13, 274, 274-6, 274 telephone services 238 food 61-3 Jewish heritage Kraków 17, 289-94, 290, 17 travel to/from 238 shopping 64 Galicia Jewish accommodation 292-3 travel within 238 Museum 292 sights 60 drinking & nightlife Ljubljana 397-403, Great Synagogue 400 tourist information 64 293-4 (Bucharest) 315 accommodation 399 tours 60 entertainment 294 Great Synagogue drinking & nightlife travel to/from 64-5 (Budapest) 184-5 food 293 401-2 travel within 65 Holocaust Memorial sights 289-92 entertainment 402 Mir 66 Center for the Jews of tourist information 294 sights 397-8 mobile phones 22, 433-4 Macedonia 244 travel to/from 294 tourist information 402 Mokra Gora 373 Museum of Jewish Kremlin (Moscow) 336-7 travel to/from 402-3 Moldova 258-69, 259 Culture 379 Kuldīga 224 travel within 403 accommodation 258, Museum of the History Kutná Hora 148 Lokrum 127 269 of Polish Jews 285 Kyiv 413-19, 416 Lovćen National Park 277-8 business hours 269 Prague Jewish Lublin 294-7 Museum 143 climate 258 Lviv 21, 419-22, Rīga Ghetto & Latvian L 21 costs 269 Holocaust Museum 218 Lahemaa National Park 172 food 258, 268 Schindler’s Factory 292 Lake Balaton 15, 193-5, 15 highlights 259 Vilnius 229 Lake Bled 403 money 269 Zamość synagogue 297 Lake Koman 50 M public holidays 269 Macedonia 240-57, Zaslavsky Jewish Lake Ohrid 252 241 travel to/from 269 accommodation 240, Monument 60 landmines 433 travel within 269 256 Julian Alps 403-7 languages 22, 443-59 visas 269 Jūrmala 221-2 climate 240 Latvia 212-25, 213 Moldova wine country 265 466 monasteries & convents drinking 343 Belarusian State Art Latvian Ethnographic Bachkovo Monastery 97 entertainment 343-4 Museum 60 Open-Air Museum 220 Cave Monastery 265 food 342-3 Brewery Museum 149 Latvian National Cetinje Monastery 278-9 shopping 344-5 Brukenthal Palace 324 Museum of Art 215 Gračanica Monastery sights 336-40 Bunk’Art 44-57 Lennusadam 165 207 tours 340-1 Chopin Museum 285 Maironis Lithuanian

INDEX INDEX Literary Museum Kyevo-Pecherska Lavra travel within 345 City Museum of Lju- 413 bljana 398 233-4 Maritime Museum of Noul Neamţ Monastery Et’hem Bey 45 Danubiana Meulensteen 267 Art Museum 384 Montenegro 275 M Gazi-Husrevbey  Ostrog Monastery 278 Despića Kuća 73 Marubi National  Mosque 72 Photography Patriarchate of Peć Jashar Pasha Egon Schiele Art Museum 49 207-8 Centrum 151 Mosque 205 Memorial House of Rila Monastery 95 Mosque Church Emin Gjiku Ethnographic Mother Teresa 242 Museum 204 Southern Bucovina (Pécs) 196 Meštrović Gallery 121 monasteries 328 Sinan Pasha Estonian National Museum 173 MK Čiurlionis National St Francis Xavier Church Mosque 209 Museum of Art 234 & Monastery 233 Estonian Open Air Sultan Mehmet Fatih Moscow galleries 344 Sveta Bogorodica Mosque 205 Museum 168 Monastery 248 Ethnographic Museum Mucha Museum 139 Mostar 16, 79-84, 80, 16 Sveti Jovan Bigorski (Berat) 52 Muhu Museum 176 accommodation 82 Monastery 248 Ethnographical Museum Museum Fotoateliér drinking & nightlife 83 Sveti Naum Monastery (Plovdiv) 97 Seidel 151-2 253-4 food 82-3 Ethnographical Museum Museum of Broken Trinity Monastery of St shopping 83 (Sofia) 88 Relationships 109 Sergiy 346 sights & activities 79-81 Galerija 11-07-95 73 Museum of Confiscated Visoki Dečani Monastery tourist information 84 Galicia Jewish Museum Art 66 208 tours 81 292 Museum of Contempo- money 22, 428-9, 431-2 motorcycle travel Gallery of Matica Srpska rary Art (Skopje) 244 see also individual to/from Eastern 371 Museum of Contempo- locations Europe 437 Grigore Antipa Natural rary Art (Zagreb) 109 Montenegro 270-81, 271 within Eastern Europe History Museum 316 Museum of Decorative Arts & Design 214 accommodation 270, 281 439-40 Hammam Museum 81 Museum of Genocide climate 270 Mt Tâmpa 320 Hermitage 351 Victims 229 costs 280, 281 Mt Triglav 21, 407, 21 Historical Museum of Gdańsk 304-5 Museum of Jewish food 270, 280 Mt Vitosha 94 Culture 379 highlights 271 Mucha, Alfons 139 Historical Museum of Poznań 302 Museum of Modern Art itineraries 272 Muhu 176 (Olomouc) 156 History Museum of travel to/from 281 museums & galleries 26 BiH 75 Museum of New Art travel within 281 Aleksander Nevski (Pärnu) 175 History Museum of Crypt 88 monuments Lithuania Minor 236 Museum of Railway Apple Museum 138 Technology 66 Candle of Gratitude 266 Holocaust Memorial Ćele Kula 374 Archaeological Museum Center for the Jews of Museum of Roses 98 Fishermen’s Bastion 182 (Nesebâr) 103 Macedonia 244 Museum of Socialist Freedom Monument 215 Archaeological Museum Holocaust Museum Art 89 (Sofia) 88 Holy Trinity Column 156 (Vilnius) 229 Museum of the 1989 Archaeological Museum Revolution 329 Newborn Monument 205 183 (Sozopol) 105 Museum of the Great Njegoš Mausoleum 277 Hungarian National Archaeological Museum Museum 183 Patriotic War 60 Sea Organ 117-8 (Split) 121 Museum of the History Sun Salutation 118 Jūrmala City Archaeological Museum Museum 222 of Polish Jews 285 Zaslavsky Jewish (Varna) 102 Museum of the Infant Monument 60 Kadriorg Art Archaeological Museum Museum 167 Jesus of Prague 139 Moravia 153-8 of Macedonia 242 Kajtaz House 81 Museum of the Ninth Moscow 336-45, 338 Armoury (Kremlin) 336 Fort 234 Kaunas Picture accommodation 341-2 Arsenāls Exhibition Gallery 234 Museum of the Hall 215 Romanian Peasant 316 art galleries 344 Klaipėda Castle Art Pavilion (Zagreb) 109 Museum 235 Museum of Vojvodina 371 ASTRA National Museum Kraków Gate 295 Museum of Yugoslav Complex 324 History 362 Map Pages 000 Kumu 168 Balabanov House 96-7 Museum of Zakopane Photo Pages 000 Kunstkamera 347-50 Style 298 467 Museum of Zamość 297 Stalin Line Museum 60 Nové Město 139-42 travel seasons 22, 28-32, Museum on Water - Bay State History Museum Novi Sad 370-3 426 of the Bones 254 (Moscow) 337 Novo Sarajev 73-5 Plitvice Lakes National National Archaeology State Tretyakov Gallery Park 119 & History Museum 337 Plovdiv 96-9 (Chişinău) 260 Storno House 192 O Plzeň 148-50 Odesa 421

National Gallery of Arts Techmania Science Podgórze 292 INDEX (Tirana) 44 Ohrid 17, 249-53, , Centre 149 250 17 Poland 282-311, 283 National Gallery of Rīga History & Naviga- old towns 24, see also accommodation 282, Macedonia 242-4 tion Museum 214 individual locations

M-R  310 National History Mu- Timișoara Art Museum Olomouc 156-8 business hours 310 seum (Tirana) 44  329 Opatija 117 climate 282 National Maritime Mu- Tiraspol National History opening hours see costs 310, 311 seum (Gdańsk) 305 Museum 267 business hours food 282, 309 National Museum Toruń Gingerbread Orheiul Vechi 265 highlights 283 (Belgrade) 363 Museum 308 Ostrów Tumski 302 National Museum Tunnel Museum 76 gay & lesbian Otepää 174-5 travellers 310 (Ohrid) 250 University of Tartu National Museum Museum 173 itineraries 284 (Racławice) 300 War Photo Limited 127 P money 310 National Museum Warsaw Rising Museum Pakleni Islands 125, 11 public holidays 310 (Sarajevo) 73 285 palaces, see castles, telephone services National Museum of Zepter Museum 362 fortresses & palaces 310-11 Ethnography & Natural Paneriai 232-3 travel to/from 311 History (Chişinău) 260 parks & gardens, see travel within 311 National Museum of N also national parks & visas 311 History (Boyana) 94 national parks & reserves, reserves Pomerania 304-9 National Museum of see also parks & Gorky Park 337 Lithuania 228 gardens Poprad 385-6 Grădina Publică Ştefan Poreč 117 National Museum of Belavezhskaya Pushcha cel Mare şi Sfînt 260 National Park 68 postal services 432 Montenegro 278 Grūtas Park 233 Curonian Spit National Postojna 408-9 National Museum of Kadriorg Park 165-8 Slovenia 398 Park 236 Poznań 301-3 Łazienki Park 285 Neon Museum 287 Djerdap National Park Prague 12, 136-47, 137, 140 Maksimir Park 109 New Tretyakov Gallery 369 accommodation 143 Marjan Forest Park 121 337 Durmitor National Park drinking & nightlife Nikola Tesla Museum 279-81 182 145-6 362-3 Galičica National Park Parcul Catedralei 260 entertainment 146 253 Onufri Museum 52 Parcul Etnografic Romu- food 144-5 Hortobágy National lus Vuia 326 Palace of the Grand sights 136-42 Park 198 Punta Corrente Forest Dukes of Lithuania tourist information 146-7 228 Kurshskaya Kosa Park 116 travel to/from 147 Perast Museum 277 National Park 354 Vintgar Gorge 404 travel within 147 Pharmacy History Lahemaa National Pärnu 175-6 Collection 326 Park 172 Pécs 196 Prague Castle 136, 137 Prague City Museum Lovćen National Park Peja 207-9 Pristina 203-7, 204 139-42 277-8 Pelister National Park Prizren 21, 209-10, 21 Prague Jewish Museum Mavrovo National Park 255-6 public holidays 432, see 143 248-9 Perast 276-7 also individual locations Pushkin Fine Arts Mt Dajti National Park 45 Peterhof 353 Pula 117 Museum 340 Pelister National Park phonecards 434 Pushkin, Alexander 260 255-6 Red Cross Concentration photography 432 Camp 374 Plitvice Lakes National Piran 409-10 Russian Museum 347 Park 119 R Pirita 168 rafting, see kayaking Rīga Ghetto & Latvian Slovenský Raj National planning Holocaust Museum Park 390-1 rail passes 442 217 Tara National Park 369 budgeting 23 Red Square (Moscow) 15, Rynek Underground 292 Nesebâr 103-4, 19 calendar of events 28-32 337, 15 Sarajevo 1878-1918 nightlife 26, see also Eastern Europe basics reserves, see national museum 72 individual locations 22-3 parks & reserves Schindler’s Factory 292 Niš 373-5 internet resources 23 Rīga 14, 214-21, 216-17, 15 Sergej Mašera Maritime Njasvizh 65-6 itineraries 33-40, 33, 34, accommodation 218-19 Museum 409-10 Njeguši 278 35, 36, 38, 39, 40 drinking & nightlife 220 468 entertainment 220 entertainment 77-8 travel within 395 Svetlogorsk 354 food 219-20 food 76-7 visas 394 synagogues shopping 221 shopping 78 Slovenia 396-411, 397 Choral Synagogue 229 sights 214-17 sights & activities 72-5 accommodation 396, 411 Great Synagogue tours 217 tourist information 78 activities 407 (Bucharest) 315 travel to/from 221 tours 75 climate 396 Great Synagogue

INDEX INDEX (Budapest) 184-5 travel within 221 travel to/from 78 costs 411 Old-New Synagogue 143 Rila Monastery 95 travel within 79 food 396, 405, 411 Prague synagogues 143 road hazards 440 Sarajevo Film Festival 31 highlights 397

R-T Synagogue in the  Romania 312-33, 313 Saranda 53-4 itineraries 398 Fortress 329 accommodation 312, 331 Savamala 368 money 410  Zamość synagogue 297 climate 312 scams 433 tourist information 410 Szeged 197-8 costs 331, 332 Schiele, Egon 151 travel to/from 411 Szentendre 191 food 312, 332 senior travellers 428 travel within 411 gay & lesbian Serbia 360-75, 361 Slovenský Raj National travellers 331 accommodation 360, Park 390-1 T highlights 313 375 Smokovec 386, 387, 388 Tallinn 19, 164-72, 166, 19 itineraries 316 climate 360 Soča Valley 407-8 accommodation 168-9 money 331 costs 374, 375 Sofia 88-94, 90 drinking & nightlife 170-1 telephone services 331-2 food 360, 367, 374 accommodation 89-90 food 169-70 travel to/from 332-3 highlights 361 drinking & nightlife 92 shopping 171 travel within 333 itineraries 362 entertainment 92-3 sights & activities 164-8 visas 332 money 375 food 91-2 tourist information 171 Rovinj 116-17 travel to/from 375 shopping 93 tours 168 Rugora Mountains 208 travel within 375 sights 88-9 travel to/from 171 ruins, see archaeological visas 375 tourist information 93 travel within 171-2 sites Sergiev Posad 346-7 tours 89 Tartu 173-4 Rundāle Palace 215 Shkodra 49-50 travel to/from 93-4 Tatranská Lomnica 386-87 Russia 334-59, 335 Sibiu 323-5 travel within 94 Tatras Mountains 385-6, accommodation 334, 355 Sighişoara 322-3 192-3 see also High Tatras business hours 355 Sigulda 222-3 Soroca 266 Telč 152 climate 334 Silesia 299-301 Sozopol 105-6 telephone services 22, costs 355, 357 Skalnaté 386 Spišské Podhradie 389-90 433-4, see also individual locations food 334, 357, 358 skiing Split 119-24, 120 Tesla, Nikola 362-3 highlights 335 High Tatras 388 Srem 371 theft 433 itineraries , 336 Sarajevo region 78 Sremska Mitrovica 371 Theth 51 money 356 Zakopane 298 Sremski Karlovci 371 Tihany 194 postal services 356 Škocjan Caves 408 St Anastasia Island 104 Tikveš 253 public holidays 356 Skopje 241-8, 243 St Basil’s Cathedral time 434 safety 356 accommodation 244-5 (Moscow) 337, 15 time zones 22 telephone services 356 drinking & nightlife 246 St Michael’s Church Timişoara 329-31 travel to/from 358 food 245 (Cluj-Napoca) 325-6 tipping 431 travel within 358-9 sights 242-4 St Petersburg 347-55, 348 Tirana 44-8, 46 visas 357 tourist information 246 accommodation 351 accommodation 45-7 tours 244 entertainment 354-5 drinking 48 travel to/from 246-7 food 351-2 S food 47-8 travel within 247 sights 347-50 Saaremaa 176-8 sights & activities 44-5 Slovakia 376-95, tourist information 355 safety 432-3, see also 378 tourist information 48 individual locations accommodation 376, travel within 355 tours 45 hiking 386 393, 394, 395 Staré Město 137-8 travel to/from 48 road hazards 440 climate 376 Stari Most (Mostar) 79 travel within 48 Sarajevo 72-9, 74 costs 394, 395 Štart 386 Tiraspol 267-9 accommodation 75-6 food 376 State Hermitage Museum Tivat 277 drinking 77-8 highlights 378 16, 351, 16 toilets 434 itineraries 377 Štrbské Pleso 387, 388 Tőkés, Father László 329 money 394 Suzdal 346 Toompea 164 Map Pages 000 tourist information 394 Sveti Djordje 276 Toruń 307-9 Photo Pages 000 travel to/from 394-5 Sveti Ivan 105 469 tourist information 434, food 412, 422, 424 visas 22, 435, see also Wielkopolska 301-3 see also individual highlights 414 individual locations wildlife refuges locations itineraries 413 Visegrád 192 Bear Sanctuary train travel money 423 Visoko 78 Pristina 207 rail passes 428 postal services 423 Vladimir 345-6 wine 18, 26 to/from Eastern Europe safety 423 Vlkolínec 384 festivals 28, 32, 95,

437 INDEX travel to/from 423-4 Vojvodina 370-3 185, 197 within Eastern Europe Vršič Pass 21, 21 regions 253, 265 441-2 travel within 424 Vuno 54 women travellers 435 Trakai 233 visas 423 work 435  T-Z Transdniestr 266-9 Wrocław 299-301  Transylvania 12, 319-28 V W travel advisories 434 vaccinations 429 walking, see hiking travellers cheques 431-2 Valbona 50-1 Warsaw 283-9, 286 Z travel to/from Eastern Varna 102-3 accommodation 287 Zadar 117-19 Europe 436-7 Veliko Târnovo 100-1 drinking & nightlife 288 Zagreb 109-15, 112 travel within Eastern Ventspils 224-5 entertainment 288 accommodation 113 Europe 437-42 Vevčani 254 food 287-8 drinking & nightlife 114 trekking, see hiking food 114 Vilnius 227-32, 230 sights 284-7 Trogir 118 accommodation 229-30 tourist information 288 shopping 115 Tsarskoe Selo 353 drinking & nightlife 231-2 travel to/from 288-9 sights 109-13 entertainment 232 travel within 289 tourist information 115 tours 113 U food 231 water 430 travel to/from 115 Ukraine 412-24, 414 sights 227-9 weather 22, 28-32 accommodation 412, tourist information 232 websites, see internet travel within 115 422, 423 travel to/from 232 resources Zakopane 297-9 climate 412 travel within 232 White Nights 29 Zamość 297 costs 423, 424 Wieliczka 293 Zlatibor 373 470 NOTES 471 NOTES 472 NOTES 473 NOTES 474 NOTES 475 NOTES 476 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 477

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe Train station/Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 478 Tim Richards Poland Tim is a travel writer whose work has appeared in a variety of news- papers, magazines and websites. He also researches and writes guidebooks for Lonely Planet. Tim lived in Egypt for two years, and Poland for a year, while teaching English as a foreign language in the mid-1990s. Nowadays he lives in the city centre of Melbourne, Australia, with his wife, Narrelle Harris. BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Simon Richmond Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries cov- ered including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban Sketching - follow him on Instagram to see some of his photos and sketches. Simon contributed to the Plan and Survival Guide chapters

Tamara Sheward Montenegro & Serbia After years of freelance travel writing, rock’n’roll journalism and insalubrious authordom, Tamara leapt at the chance to join the Lonely Planet ranks in 2009. Since then, she’s worked on guides to an incongruous jumble of countries including Montenegro, Australia, Serbia, Russia, the Samoas, Bulgaria and Fiji. She’s written a miscellany of travel articles for the BBC, The Independent, Sydney Morning Herald et al; she’s also fronted the camera as a documentary presenter for Lonely Planet TV, Nat Geo and Al-Jazeera. Tamara’s based in far northern Australia, but you’re more likely to find her roaming elsewhere, tattered notebook in one hand, the world’s best-travelled toddler in the other.

Contributing Writers & Researchers Carolyn Bain (Iceland & Slovenia) Steve Fallon (Hungary, Slovenia & Romania) Anna Kaminksi (Hungary) Anja Mutić (Croatia) Andy Symington (Estonia, Latvia & Lithuania) Neil Wilson (Czech Republic) 479 Mark Elliott Bosnia & Hercegovina Having already lived and worked on five continents, Mark started writing travel guides in the pre-Internet dark ages. His first work, Asia Overland, was a ludicrously over-ambitious opus covering a whole continent and designed to aid impecunious English teachers make the trip home to Europe from Japan with a minimal budget. It was one of the first guides to help backpackers across the then-new states of the former USSR. BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND Elliott has since written, or co-written, around 60 other travel books, while acting as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, interviewer and blues harmonicist.

Anita Isalska Bulgaria, Hungary, Romania & Slovakia Anita is a travel journalist, editor and copywriter whose work for Lonely Planet has taken her from Greek beach towns to Malaysian jungles, and plenty of places in between. After several merry years as an in-house editor and writer – with a few of them in Lonely Planet’s London office – Anita now works freelance between the UK, Australia and any Balkan guesthouse with a good wi-fi connection. Anita writes about travel, food and culture for a host of websites and magazines. Read her stuff on www.anita- isalska.com.

Tom Masters Albania & Kosovo Dreaming since he could walk of going to the most ob- scure places on earth, Tom has always had a taste for the unknown. This has led to a writing career that has taken him all over the world, including North Korea, the Arctic, Congo and Siberia. Despite a brief spell living in the English countryside, Tom has always called London, Paris and Berlin home. He cur- rently lives in Berlin and can be found online at www.tommasters.net.

Hugh McNaughtan Lithuania A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa applications, and turned his love of travel intro a full-time thing. A long- time castle tragic with an abiding love of Britain’s Celtic extremities, he jumped at the chance to explore Wales, from the Cambrian Mountains to the tip of Anglesey. He’s never happier than when on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field....

Lorna Parkes Macedonia Londoner by birth, Melburnian by palate and ex-Lonely Planet staffer in both cities, Lorna has spent more than 10 years exploring the globe in search of the perfect meal, the friendliest B&B, the best-value travel expe- rience, and the most spectacular lookout point – both for her own pleasure and other people’s. She’s discovered she writes best on planes, and has con- tributed to numerous Lonely Planet books and magazines. Wineries and the tropics (not at the same time!) are her go-to happy places. Follow her @Lorna_Explorer.

Leonid Ragozin Latvia, Russia & Ukraine Leonid studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia, he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for the Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist focusing largely on the conflict between Russia and Ukraine (both his Lonely Planet destinations), which prompted him to leave Moscow and find a new home in Rīga. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Mark Baker Bulgaria, Czech Republic, Romania & Slovenia Mark is a freelance travel writer with a penchant for offbeat stories and forgotten places. He’s originally from the United States, but now makes his home in the Czech capital, Prague. He writes mainly on Eastern and Central Europe for Lonely Planet as well as other leading travel publishers, but finds real satisfaction in digging up stories in places that are too remote or quirky for the guides. Prior to becoming an author, he worked as a journalist for The Economist, Bloomberg News and Radio Free Europe, among other organisations. Instagram: @markbakerprague Twitter: @markbakerprague

Greg Bloom Belarus & Moldova Greg is a freelance writer, tour operator and travel planner based out of Siem Reap, Cambodia, and Manila, Philippines. Greg began his writing career in the late ‘90s in Ukraine, working as a journalist and later edi- tor-in-chief of the Kyiv Post, an English-language weekly. As a freelance travel writer, he has contributed to some 35 Lonely Planet titles, mostly in Eastern Europe and Asia. In addition to writing, he now organises adventure trips in Cambodia and Pala- wan (Philippines) through his tour company, Bearcat Travel.

Marc Di Duca Croatia, Poland & Ukraine A travel author for the last decade, Marc has worked for Lonely Planet in Siberia, Slovakia, Bavaria, England, Ukraine, Austria, Poland, Croatia, Portugal, Madeira and on the Trans-Siberian Railway, as well as writing and updating tens of other guides for other publishers. When not on the road, Marc lives between Sandwich, Kent and Mariánské Láznĕ in the Czech Republic with his wife and two sons.

Peter Dragicevich Croatia & Estonia After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current no- madic existence means he’s often elsewhere.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 14th edition – October 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 145 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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