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2017 / 2018 EDITION

Barcelona street fashion. Top party nights. The city’s best G&Ts. Cutting-edge Catalan cuisine. Festivals for all Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 2 Contents

What you’ll find inside

Food trucks Feature, p12

Primavera Sound Music, p84 This year’s exhibitions Art, p95 Pizza Food, p104 MARIA DIAS MARIA MARIA DIAS MARIA COLLECTION RAMON ARTUR GERMAINE. PICHOT, RAMON

Features 24. Catalonia looks to the future Regulars How knowledge is driving the region 12. Cool BCN 46. Shopping & Style Fashion, design, food, markets, hotel 25. Urban museum 49. BCU University info rooftops... There’s just so much that makes this A slice of Barcelona’s street art city one of the coolest places on Earth. Here we 70. Things to Do whittle it down to just six pages 28. Art in L’Hospitalet 80. Cinema In this neighbouring city, culture thrives 82. Theatre & Dance 18. 16 great things to do 84. Music & Nightlife If you need help deciding where to go and what 32. Street fashion to see while here, check out our selection of What Barcelona wears 92. LGBTI Barcelona essentials 94. Art Talk to us! 36. Sea and mountain 96. Books facebook.com/timeoutbcn 20. BCN tech A local gastronomic speciality 100. Food & Drink @timeoutbcn Discover the people and places at the forefront @timeoutbcn of Catalonia’s booming technology and 42. Eating out on C/Mandri 112. Getaways research sector Where tradition and innovation meet 114. Interview

3 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Here & now

Edited by Ricard Martín and Josep Lambies timeout.com/barcelona

Live this time to the full

SEEKING INSPIRATION for this column, I happened to hear Baz Luhrmann’s musical take on journalist Mary Schmich’s 1997 piece for The Chicago Tribune, an imaginary graduation speech that starts ‘Wear sunscreen’. You’re not graduating just yet, but as you set out on a great adventure, I offer you a Barcelona- focused interpretation of some of Schmich’s advice. ‘Do one thing every day that scares you’: try a few phrases in Catalan, eat in a café where you don’t May the understand anything on the menu, jump on the first bus that comes to your stop and get off where force be everything is unfamiliar. ‘Enjoy your body, use it every way you can’: in this city, sport is everywhere. ‘Work with you hard to bridge the gaps in geography and lifestyle’: you’ll meet people from all over the world, as well as locals. Talk to them, discover new places through their stories, and explain where you come from. ‘Travel’: you’re just a short train or plane ride from the rest of Catalonia, Spain, southern Europe and north Africa. And, of course, wear sunscreen. Q Hannah Pennell

THE ESSENTIALS Three things you have to do this year

Do this Eat this See this

Take one cosmopolitan city, mix with fair to ‘Little rolls of goodness’ is our alternative name Doubtless your research into Barcelona threw up scorching weather and you have the ideal for croquetas, regulars on the menus of many numerous must-see modernista buildings. As setting for outdoor festivals. From music to tapas bars. Made of béchemal mixed with meat, well as the classics, you should visit those newly film, food and more, Barcelona has events of all fish or vegetables that’s rolled in breadcrumbs opened to the public: Casa Vicens, Casa de les sizes to sate existing tastes and find new loves. then fried, they’re great, flavourful comfort food. Punxes (above) and Palau Baró de Quadras.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 4 5 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 BCN SEPTEMBER OCTOBER Calendar

The events you mustn’t miss 21 05 Lady Gaga Sitges Film Festival Concert Film The Joanne World Tour 6GTTQTCPFHCPVCU[ƂKEMU struts into Barcelona. from around the world. MARIA DIAS MARIA

OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER 25 23 13 Picasso in Barcelona Sâlmon Festival Fira de Santa Llúcia Art Dance Christmas The artist and the city at Innovative performances The perfect place to buy the Museu Picasso. at the Mercat de les Flors. decorations and gifts. SEP 2017 / JUN 2018 JUN / 2017 SEP

Elton John. One of the greatest showmen of our times Loop Festival. Video art takes centre stage at this DON’T MISS! is touring with his extensive back catalogue. DEC 03 event that celebrates all aspects of the genre. MAY 23

DECEMBER JANUARY FEBRUARY MARCH 31 07 08 11 New Year’s Eve Winter sales start Carnival Zurich BCN Marathon Party Shopping Tradition Sport Time to celebrate and If you’re a bargain-hunter, Time to party before the Trainers at the ready! say ‘hola’ to 2018. prepare for action. lean weeks of Lent. Get set to run 42km.

APRIL MAY JUNE JUNE

23Sant Jordi 31Primavera Sound 06Fire!! 14Sónar Tradition Music LGBTI Music festival Catalonia’s most Three days of great music International gay and BCN’s epic electronic romantic day of the year. at Parc del Fòrum. NGUDKCPƁNOHGUVKXCN event returns once more. MARIA DIAS MARIA

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 6 WORD I DESERVE ON THE TO BE HERE STREET

The most ridiculous things we’ve overhead in Barcelona this year

We give locals the chance to share their Two teenagers story on the street ‘Have you ever eaten sushi?’ ‘Isn’t that a breed of dog?’ Two people in a bar ‘Being a fishmonger is like selling at Zara, just selling fish.’ ‘You’re totally right.’ A man talking on the telephone ‘We arranged to meet Augustó Barceló today, but as you can see, I’m not there.’ Psychomotor therapist, 34 years old www.centricbcn.es A man unlocks a car from the year 2000 and You used to be a teacher. his daughter asks Yes, I have a degree in teaching and physical ‘Why does the car education as well as two postgrads in open with keys?’ educational and therapeutic psychomotor FERNÁNDEZ IRENE development. I’d always worked as a teacher but A patient to his nurse then I decided to leave my job in a local school an after-school activity open to all kinds of ‘Don’t give me coffee, to make Centric (Balmes, 13) a reality; it’s a children. We also do psychomotor therapy in pedagogical and psychomotor therapy centre. smaller groups with special needs children, I’m vegetarian.’ those with attention deficit issues, who are What led you to this personal project? hyperactive or inhibited, or have crossed A girl of about five to The idea was to help both the families and laterality or development problems; with them, her father children be happier. Rather than we do more specific work. ‘The robot-dog has using traditional therapies, we no batteries. My life’s provide an alternative through play ‘The idea is How would you assess the and discovery. It’s a space of free to help both experience? a disaster.’ expression and there are only three It’s very enriching, both for limits, which are all positive: look after the families us and the children. That’s Two women arguing yourself, look after the materials and and the why I want people to know ‘I forget but I look after the other people. And after about it. Because in Catalonia don’t forgive!’ that, play! children be psychomotor therapy is not well-known and it’s necessary What kinds of children come? happier’ to spread the word. We have an expression workshop, Q Begoña García Carteron

7 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Best of BCN

CITY SURVIVAL GUIDE

What you need to know The bureaucratic steps to setting up life in Barcelona, the transport options, how to validate a degree, and where to learn Catalan or Spanish.

What do I need to open a bank Do I need to register with the local state or Switzerland, you need (for metro, bus, tram, and FGC and account? authorities? either a valid European Health local Renfe trains) are: You need a letter of acceptance Registration (empadronament) Card (issued in your home country) ! T-10: A multi-person travel from your host university or with the city council enables you or private medical insurance for card allowing 10 journeys on all research centre, or any document to become a resident of Barcelona. the duration of your stay. Non- operators in the Integrated Fare that proves you’re studying or Everyone, with or without a EU citizens will require private System (IFS) . doing research at a centre in Spanish residence permit, has medical insurance that covers ! T-Mes: A holder-specific travel Catalonia, as well as a passport to register at a their time here. Public card allowing unlimited journeys and a foreigner’s ID number Citizen Service primary medical on all operators in the IFS; it lasts (NIE). If you’re a national of an Centre (Oficina A guide to care is provided at a calendar month and must be EU member state, apply for the d’Atenció Ciutadà). day-to-day neighbourhood CAP used with a valid ID. NIE at the police station located The OAC addresses centres: see www. ! T-Jove: Under-25s can use at Rambla Guipúscoa, 74. You’ll are listed on www. living in BCN catsalut.cat or call this personalised card to make need a prior appointment, which barcelona.cat, 902 111 444 for unlimited journeys over 90 days. you can make at: https://sede. where you can also details. ! T-50/30: An individual travel administracionespublicas.gob.es make the necessary card valid for 50 journeys over 30 (some info is in English, but certain prior appointment. Which card consecutive days from the first sections are in Spanish only). If should I use to validation. you’re not from an EU member How can I access travel by public For more details, see www.tmb.es. country, go to the police station at the public health transport? Pg. de Sant Joan, 189. To make system? The most Where can I do language classes? an appointment, email: infoext. If you come from an popular ! Catalan Consorci per a la [email protected] EU or EEA member travel cards Normalització Lingüística (CpNL):

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 8 Best of BCN

SAFETY TIPS

BEFORE STARTING OUT on your big Barcelona adventure, you may want to gather practical information just in case you run into problems. For example, get the phone number of your country’s embassy or consulate, and any numbers you might need to cancel credit cards or handle medical emergencies. During your stay, there are many measures you can take to keep yourself safe:

1 ! When making reservations or renting accommodation it’s best to use the services of institutions and organisations dedicated to that purpose, as recommended by Barcelona Centre Universitari (www.bcu.cat/en).

MARIA DIAS MARIA 2 ! If you use public transport, keep an eye on your belongings, especially your phone and money. In any crowded place, strap your bag and/or camera across your front, rather than your back. Use Call 112 a secure closure, such as a lock, zip, etc., ensuring that it’s always If you’re the victim of a crime, ask properly closed. for help from a police officer or call 112, which works for all emergency 3 ! On the beach, respect the services, including ambulances and coloured flags indicating whether the fire brigade. It’s free, works 24/7 it’s safe to swim. If you head there alone and plan to go in the water, and you can even call using your it’s best to leave valuables at home. mobile in places where you can’t get a signal with your provider (via another company). Operators can 4 ! If travelling by car, note that www.cpnl.cat everyone in the vehicle needs to Intercat: www.intercat.cat help in 50 languages. There’s also wear a seat belt, and it’s best not to Parla.cat: www.parla.cat ‘My 112 " Æ’, a useful, free app you can stop for strangers. Try to park in ! Spanish UAB Idiomes: download; if you access the service, well-lit locations. www.uab.cat/servei-llengues/ Merit School UPC: your phone will then use geolocation www.meritschool.com/upc/ to identify where you are. 5 ! Avoid showing your cash UPF Idiomes: www.upf.edu/pei/ For details, contact [email protected]. in public, and only carry a small amount. In restaurants and bars, Where I can get my foreign degree ask for the prices first to avoid approved/validated? surprises when paying. Go to the Higher Inspectorate of Education at Bergara, 12, ground floor. T. 93 520 96 03. 6 ! You may come across people who will try to divert your How can I get free WiFi access? attention with various excuses Barcelona WiFi is a service from (saying you have stains on your the local council that provides clothes, selling flowers, asking for internet connection through WiFi your signature, etc.). Do your best hotspots in municipal amenities to avoid them, as they could be and public access points. pickpockets. www.bcn.cat/barcelonawifi/en/ For more info, visit www.bcu.cat

9 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 FREE BCN

Enjoy the city without spending a cent

some nine metres high, which remain from the Roman colony of Barcino that DON’T once stood here. GUIDED VISITS MISS Æ Paradís, 10. M: Jaume I (L4). www.museuhistoria. Cemetery tours bcn.cat Barcelona’s cemeteries are not ATTRACTIONS Montjuïc Magic just final resting-places; they Fountain also house iconic sculptures Still in possession of and extraordinary sepultures, its original plumbing, artworks in their own right. this colourful landmark works its And as well as daytime tours, wonders with 3,600 the brave can enjoy occasional, pieces of tubing and spooky night-time visits. more than 4,500 light bulbs. At the Æ Sundays, in Catalan and Spanish. More info: www.cbsa.cat. evening shows, the multiple founts swell and dance to TRADITIONS anything from the L’ou com balla ‘1812 Overture’ to Every Corpus Christi Freddie Mercury and (around 65 days Montserrat Caballé’s after Easter), various ‘Barcelona’. fountains in the city Æ Av. Maria Cristina. are ornately decorated M: Espanya (L1,L3). with flowers and www.bcn.cat foliage, while an egg (ou) is placed on top OUTDOORS of the water where it Portal de Santa merrily dances (balla) Madrona away. It’s a memorable Every first, third and sight that epitomises fourth Sunday, the Barcelona’s historical Maritime Museum beauty. opens what is the last Æ Various sites. See surviving gate from www.bcn.cat for details. the city’s medieval walls and that gives HISTORY onto a hidden garden. Temple of Æ Av. Drassanes, 1. Augustus M: Drassanes (L3). Discover these 11am-2pm.

remarkable columns, DIAS MARIA www.mmb.cat

Publisher Eduard Voltas | Finance manager Judit Sans | Business manager Mabel Mas | Editor-in-chief María José Gómez | Student Guide editor Hannah Pennell | Ar t director Diego Piccininno | Design Laura Fabregat | Picture editor Maria Dias | Editorial team Erica Aspas, Jordi Gar rigós, Andreu Gomila, Maria Junyent, Josep Lambies, Ricard Mar tín, Mar ta Salicr ú, Eugènia Sendra | Catalan website Manel Pérez | Spanish website Erica Aspas | English website Jan Fleischer | Blog Pau Roca | Contributors: Xavier Amat, Laia Beltran, Òscar Broc, Irene Fernández, Begoña García Carteron, Jordi Garrigós, Clemmy Manzo, Ricard Mas, Aina Mercader, Iván Moreno, Abby Narishkin, Braden Phillips, Pau Roca, Martí Sales, Josep Succarats, Alexa Tucker, Montse Virgili | Translator Nick Chapman | Head of creative solutions and sponsors Clara Nar vión | Head of marketing and sales Car lota Falcó | Head of E-business Aroa Cer vantes | Advertising Carme Mingo T. 93 295 54 00 | Marketing and sales Mercè Llubera, Mercedes Arconada, Yolanda Muñoz, Germà Bustamante, Àlex Pascual, Albert Méndez | Administration Eduard Poch, Maria Jurado | Published by 80 MÉS 4 Publicacions | Time Out Barcelona Student Guide Published under the authority and with the collaboration of Time Out International Ltd, Our cover London, UK. The name and logo of Time Out are used under licence from Time Out Group Ltd, 251 Tottenham Court Road, London W1T 7AB, UK +44 (0)20 7813 3000. All rights reserved throughout the world. No part of Laura Fabregat this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of Time Out Group Ltd. © Copyright Time Out Group Ltd 2017. BCU-Welcome Barcelona Global Design Development, SL – GdD. Via Laietana, 20, 1a planta 08003 Barcelona | T. 93 310 73 43 [email protected] Printer Litografies Rosés | Legal deposit B-13743-2014 Supported by: Free, not for resale ISSN 2339-9872 | Time Out Digital ISSN 2462-3385

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 10 11 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 SCOTT CHASSEROT SCOTT

ONLY IN BARCELONA By Clemmy Manzo

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 12 El Quim La Boqueria Cool BCN

LA PLATA BE SCARED OF KISSING Not much has changed at this pint-sized tapas You’ll doubtless see locals bar since it opened its doors in 1945. Tucked greeting each other with a peck on away in a corner of the Barri Gòtic, owner Anna each cheek. It might seem a tad Marjanet serves up the same four tapas her forward, but it’s a custom that parents did 70 years ago. Clearly it’s a case of quickly becomes strangely quality over quantity, as locals jostle for space appealing. with some of the world’s biggest stars (among them U2’s Bono, actor Daniel Brühl and top EAT ON THE STREET DO! chef Ferran Adrià) for a taste of La Plata’s It’s not exactly frowned upon here. GO WALKING famous fried sardines, washed down with a It’s just not done. And really, Public transport in Barcelona is glass of vermouth. there’s no need. If you’re feeling excellent, and there are any Æ Mercé, 28. www.barlaplata.com peckish, just pop into one of number of rental vehicles to help Barcelona’s hundreds of cafés, you get around. But you’ll see more bars and restaurants. of the city, and feel more like a LUNCH AT THE MARKET local, if you use your own two legs. It’s hard to beat a morning at Barcelona’s must- DRESS HEAD TO FOOT IN visit markets, where piles of golden cheeses, FAST FASHION LOOK AFTER YOUR STUFF hanging hams and stacks of shiny tomatoes vie We like Zara, Mango, etc. as much While things have improved here for attention. So we suggest you stay for lunch as the next man, woman or child. recently, pickpockets are still on too. Among the kaleidoscope of colours are But with so many clothing the prowl. City-dwellers are used some of the city’s best taperias, where you can emporiums here, don’t limit to keeping valuables close, a habit feast on the very produce that you’ve just been yourself to the obvious ones. that is much cooler than having to admiring. They’re usually traditional affairs ƁNGCTGRQTVCVVJGEQRUJQR where locals on their lunch break bark out their STAY IN ONE AREA daily order while hungry tourists studiously pour Did you know that Barcelona has EAT SEASONAL FRUIT & VEG over the menu. Among our favourites are more than 70 neighbourhoods? ;QWoNNƁPFJGCRUQHNQECNRTQFWEVU La Boqueria’s El Quim and Santa Caterina’s Didn’t think so. Wander off the VJCVƁNN%CVCNCPNCTFGTUCPF Bar Joan. beaten track and you’ll be well stomachs at different times of the rewarded with new sights and year, like wild mushrooms in experiences. autumn, cherries in June and the RECIPE POSTCARDS onion-like calçots in winter. Put the sombrero down. And don’t even think BE EARLY CDQWVVJCVƂCOGPEQFTGUU(QTCYC[EQQNGTs Life tends to adhere to a later GO BILINGUAL CPFEJGCRGTsUQWXGPKTUVQEMWRKPUVGCFQP timetable in Barcelona. Breakfast 6T[QWVCRNC[KP%CVCNCP5GGCƁNO vintage-style recipe postcards and posters by at 10.30am, lunch from 2pm, no in Spanish. No, you might not get Catalan design studio Yema. Inspired by supper before 9.30pm. And don’t everything that’s going on, but you adverts from the ’30s, they use retro even think about going out at night will get a taste of this key part of typography and illustrations to depict typical before 11pm. EKV[NKHGYJGTGRGQRNGƂKRHTQOQPG Spanish and Catalan dishes such as crema language to another. Catalana, paella, pa amb tomàquet, patatas DRINK TOO MUCH bravas and pescaito frito. On the back are the Now, we don’t want to sound like LOOK AWAY FROM authentic recipes to match, so you can your mum, and we know alcohol is YOUR MOBILE re-create a culinary Barcelona experience back likely to be cheaper here than at 5GNƁGUVKEMUCTGPQVVJGOQUV home. Find them at gift shops across the city. home. But do as the Catalans do popular gadget among locals, and Æwww.yema.info and savour your drinks. It’ll be while we all know how useful more fun for everybody. mobiles can be, Barcelona is full of beauty. Don’t miss it. EL NACIONAL Down a quiet passageway off Passeig de HEAD TO THE BEACH )T¼EKCKUCUWTGƁTGEQPVGPFGTHQT$CTEGNQPCoU While you can go swimming in the most striking space. Inside the refurbished warmer months, there’s much 19th-century building, it’s all high-ceilinged DON’T! more going on there, not least splendour with a big dollop of Art Deco. In the seafront strolls, al fresco dining centre is a stunning wooden barra, the perfect and any number of outdoor sports. place for a glass of cava while you ponder which eating area to head for. Choose from

ARTIST’S BOOKS ILLUSTRATION ABC OF Terranova is one of the latest projects from Illustration in Barcelona is riding high. Find audiovisual creator Luís Cerveró; it seeks proof of it in the pages of the 2015 dual out new writing talents and city artists. language book Mundo ilustrado/Illustrated COOL (terrranova.com) World (Ed. Gustavo Gili; €14.90).

13 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Cool BCN HOTELS WITH A VIEW

Food trucks Get a different Palo Alto monthly market take on the city from its rooftops

You’ve got up-close and personal with the Picassos, gawked at the Gaudís, and admired the Mirós. Now it’s time for a new Barcelona perspective, from up above. Many hotel bars and restaurants offer unbeatable views of famous landmarks, minus the queues. Among the best is the slick rooftop of Hotel Majestic on Passeig de Gràcia. Masterful cocktails come with a poolside panorama of Casa Batlló and the spikes of the Sagrada Família. At the quieter end of the Barri MARIA DIAS MARIA Gòtic is the romantic Hotel Duquesa de Cardona, housed in a beautiful Q[UVGTUCVVJGƁUJTGUVCWTCPVLWKE[UVGCMUCVVJG Barcelona’s neighbourhoods. Touch wood 19th-century building. One part of the brasserie, Spanish tapas at the taperia, or there’s plenty of sunshine this year! sixth-floor terrace is open all day to perhaps deli-style snacks at the stall. Whichever ÆPalens: www.palens.com non-guests, who can admire views of [QWIQYKVJ[QWoTGKPXGT[UCHGsCPFETGCVKXGs ÆPalo: www.palowood.com the palm-fringed marina on one side hands here. ÆRibot: www.ribot-barcelona.com and the church of La Mercè on the ÆPasseig de Gràcia, 24 bis. www.elnacionalbcn.com other. For sea views, Eclipse Bar South at the sail-shaped W Hotel is your best QUIMET I QUIMET bet. Like the rest of the building, this PALO ALTO MARKET A stand-up-only bodega bar serving tinned covered bar on the 26th floor is known Taking place in an industrial warehouse in UJGNNƁUJ conservas) may seem like a peculiar for its innovative design details. Drinks Poblenou’s Vila Olímpica, this monthly hipster choice, but century-old Quimet i Quimet in Poble- aren’t cheap, but they’re worth it for hang-out showcases local fashion labels such sec is a Barcelona institution, exuding a the sweeping vistas. Towards Sants as Colmillo de Morsa, Mas34 and Mis Tesoros classic charm that transports you back to the station, Hotel Torre Catalunya’s top- Vintage, as well as independent homeware city’s pre-Segway-tour days. It’s minuscule and floor restaurant affords 360-degree designers and quirky art exhibits, accompanied museum-like, every inch of every wall lined with views of the twinkling city lights below. by a live music soundtrack. Dotted around are wine bottles for sale and collectible relics. And if For an entirely different viewpoint, gourmet street food trucks serving up tinned mussels aren’t your thing, worry not: head out of the centre to the elegant everything from spicy tacos to smoked pork there’s an extensive range of delicious Gran Hotel La Florida, where you can DCIWGVVGU+VoUOQTGVJCPCOCTMGVsKVoUCOKPK montaditos (tapas on bread) to choose from to combine a fine-dining experience with village of Catalan cool. Bring your trilby hat and go with your choice of tipple. hilltop views of the whole of Barcelona. UJCFGUsQTDGVVGTUVKNNDW[VJGOVJGTG ÆPoeta Cabanyes, 25. Æwww.paloaltomarket.com www.facebook.com/quimetiquimet ÆHotel Majestic: Passeig de Gràcia, 68. www.hotelmajestic.es ÆHotel Duquesa de Cardona: Passeig de Colom, WOODEN SUNGLASSES NAGUISA 12. www.hduquesadecardona.com Wooden-framed sunnies are in fashion, and it Founded in 2012 by an architect and an ÆW Hotel: Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1. seems everyone in Barcelona got the memo. KPFWUVTKCNFGUKIPGTVJKU%CVCNCPUJQGƁTOJCU www.w-barcelona.es The trend that has taken the city by storm in the breathed a new lease of life into the classic ÆHotel Torre Catalunya: Av. de Roma, 2-4. last few years is showing no sign of waning, with espadrille (espardenya in Catalan), launching www.torrecatalunya.expohotels.com a few local eyewear designers specialising innovative designs that propel the comfortable ÆGran Hotel La Florida: Ctra de Vallvidrera al solely in wooden collections. Among them are shoe into high fashion status. The stylishly Tibidabo, 83-93. www.hotellaflorida.com the handcrafted selections by Palens and Palo, creative collections are made with top-quality while Ribot’s funky designs are named after materials and combine different textures and

FOR KIDS HOME-GROWN TRAINERS Do art galleries for kids exist? Yes! The Sneaker fever shows no sign of abating. problem (perhaps) is that adults also For proof check out veteran Catalan vamba love the pieces on sale at Plom Gallery labels like Mates (Gayarre, 25) and Munich

(Sèneca, 31). (Rec, 22). MARIA DIAS MARIA

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 14 Cool BCN

colours. Many add wood or cork to the typical jute (rope) heels, while most of the fabric is leather. 9GGURGEKCNN[NQXGVJGQPGUYKVJCOGVCNNKEƁPKUJ ÆFind them at Ivori, Mirallers, 7 or go online to shop at: www.naguisa.com.

BRAVA FABRICS What’s not to love about this fair-trade fashion label? Made exclusively in Barcelona from EGTVKƁGFEQVVQPVJGKTUJKTVUEQOGKPHWPDQNF prints such as slices of watermelon, paper boats, rubber ducks and, one of our particular favourites, food trucks. There’s a range of women’s blouses, dresses and T-shirts, as well as bow ties, shorts and underwear. What’s more, their strict eco-friendly ethos means that no RNCUVKEKUWUGFKPRCEMCIKPIQTRQUVKPIsKPUVGCF you’ll get your purchases beautifully wrapped in burlap with recycled paper tags. ÆRoc Boronat, 6. www.bravafabrics.com CRISTINA RECHE CRISTINA PALOMA WOOL The brainchild of 20-something Paloma Lanna, this fresh clothes label has grown into a huge HAVE A VERMOUTH hit since it launched in 2014. Lanna shirks the faddish elements of fashion, choosing instead among younger generations may be to produce timeless, high-quality pieces When what’s cool down to its appealingly retro image, made from linen and cotton. The sweatshirts or perhaps there’s just a growing feature prints of her personal analogue has a long history appreciation of such traditions in photographs, while other designs are inspired a time of increasing globalisation. by artists such as Matisse and Picasso; they’re behind it Whatever it is, one thing’s for sure: limited-edition pieces that in a way could be said any authentic Barcelona experience is to be works of art in themselves. And all made Like a phoenix rising from the ashes incomplete without getting stuck into of its dowdy reputation, vermouth vermouth o’clock. has in recent times become the city’s Sit down for an artisan experience most fashionable drink. Made from among the oak barrels of Casa Mariol white wine macerated with aromatics, (Rosselló, 442). This little bodega and served on the rocks or fizzed up near the Sagrada Família has gained with siphon soda, it’s usually enjoyed international fame for its own brand with friends before a long lunch or of vermouth, made with 150 herbs an aperitif before dinner. A small and spices, and a white wine base plate of plump green olives or pickled originating from macabeo grapes. anchovies are almost obligatory This is the place to buy a bottle to take accompaniments. While the tradition home. At the foot of Montjuïc, trendy was once practically confined to the Seco Taverna Km0 (Pg. del Montjuïc, over-60s, now you’re just as likely to 74) brings a big measure of vermouth see youths in skinny jeans nursing cool to fashionable Poble-sec. On the tumblers of the stuff. The drink’s other side of the spectrum are the newfound popularity has resulted in old-school Bodegueta Cal Pep in Sants a resurgence of traditional bodegas (Canalejas, 12) and Gràcia’s Bodega as well as a wave of contemporary 3WKOGV 8KE sDQVJDGNQXGF Stylish shirts vermuterias. Vermouth’s renaissance veterans in the vermouth ritual. Brava Fabrics

SIGNATURE CERAMICSLOCAL HATS MODERN JEWELS If you’re a ceramics fan, don’t miss the From the fusion of skate and surf Craft and design combine in the dream-like pieces by Lusesita (Pallars, cultures comes Laser Bcn. A must if contemporary jewellery of Alba Casares 84) and the illustrated work of Sonia baseball hats and sweaters are a key (facebook.com/albacasaresbarcelona) Pulido (in Oslo at Torrent de l’Olla, 164). part of your wardrobe (Doctor Dou, 2). and Berta Sumpsi (bertasumpsi.com).

15 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Cool BCN SANT ANTONI MANIA proudly in Barcelona, as the young designer CYCLING herself puts it. 9GCNYC[UMPGYKVDWVPQYKVoUQHƁEKCN$CTEGNQPC The area that Æwww.palomawool.com ranks among the world’s best cities to cycle in, according to a recent report by urban planning proves anywhere experts Copenhagize Design Co. Over 100km of JAMBOREE cycle lanes stretch across the city, making it easy can become cool Going strong since the ’60s, this tiny, cave-like for you to take in the sights on two wheels while basement club on Plaça Reial captivates simultaneously burning off those patatas audiences young and old with a diverse musical DTCXCU$KEKPIs$CTEGNQPCoUOWPKEKRCNE[ENG Sant Antoni was once a nondescript programme 365 nights a year. From big band to UJCTGU[UVGOsKUCXCKNCDNGVQTGUKFGPVU neighbourhood, but it earned its bebop, Jamboree covers all styles of jazz, while there are rental services on practically place in the cool hall of fame around inviting local and international artists onto its every corner. six years ago, when a handful of celebrated stage. Legendary musicians who’ve Æwww.bicing.cat pocket-sized bars opened up on performed there include the likes of Chet Baker, Æ www.bornbikebarcelona.com and around C/Parlament. News of Lou Bennett, Kenny Clarke and Ornette Æbarcelonabiking.com the neighbourhood’s cutting-edge Coleman. What’s more, Monday night’s WTF! Æwww.tallerbicicle.net cool factor spread like wildfire. jam sessions are a Barcelona classic, just like Soon, an influx of the modern mixed the club itself. seamlessly with the classic, cementing ÆPlaça Reial, 17. www.masimas.com/jamboree PINC BY ANA TICHY Sant Antoni’s reputation as the Ana Tichy has conquered the hearts of PGKIJDQWTJQQFQHVJGOQOGPVsCPFKV HCUJKQPKUVCUCUHCTCƁGNFCU6QM[QYKVJJGT shows no sign of letting up. NUMON versatile pieces made with natural, organic Lined with bars, cafés and restaurants, Núria, the designer behind the Numon brand, fabrics. Feminine, urban and eclectic, her Parlament is still the centre of the describes her one-of-a-kind creations as collections are intended to be dressed up or action. Bar Calders forms part of ‘accessories with history’. She’s like the fairy down for everyday wear. She’s best known for the Barcelona’s new vermouth revolution, godmother of fabrics, lovingly transforming colourful prints she designs herself from her while Federal Café is where MacBook- disused vintage rugs, curtains and bedcovers small workshop in Gràcia. Featuring irresistibly toting freelancers come for their daily into everyday bags of all shapes and sizes fun jungle-themed prints for women and men, her dose of organic café. Two blocks down, from her workshop in the rural outskirts of latest collection secures her position as one of on Viladomat, Casa Lucio serves up Barcelona. Other funky Numon accessories our favourite Catalan designers. typical Catalan cheeses, grilled fish [QWoNNƁPFKPENWFGUWPINCUUECUGUK2CFEQXGTU ÆEncarnació, 39. www.anatichy.com and omelettes with truffles. For a and purses. retro experience, head to the nearby ÆBuy her creations at Olokuti Gràcia, Astúries, 36. and aptly named Bar Nostàlgic. On www.numon.org OMG BCN C/Aldana, a smattering of compact The concept of this Born boutique is that every cocktail bars includes ’50s-style item should make you gasp ‘OMG!’. Mission Jonny Aldana. accomplished. Dynamic owners Iu and Estela The patch bordering Av. Paral·lel is the have created a magical treasure trove of all gastronomic domain of Barcelona’s things made in Barcelona. Here’s the place to favourite culinary duo, the Adrià discover emerging local designers, whether brothers. Among their five restaurants you’re in the market for giant pouf-like sofas or in the area is the Michelin-starred necklaces from Cubos y Raíces that combine Tickets. Reservations have to be made geometry and nature. The shop also regularly months in advance, but if you can’t get hosts workshops ranging from pottery to origami. a table, at least you know there are ÆPl. de la Llana, 7. www.omgbcn.com plenty of enticing alternatives nearby.

ÆBar Calders: Parlament, 25. TOMATOES ÆFederal Café: Parlament 39. In a place where a key national dish involves ÆCasa Lucio: Viladomat, 59. rubbing cut tomatoes on bread (pa amb ÆBar Nostàlgic: Viladomat, 38. tomàquet, see page 45), it’s to be expected that ÆTickets: Av. Paral·lel, 164 the glossy red fruit so popular in Mediterranean ÆJonny Aldana: Aldana, 9 cooking is a common sight in Barcelona’s Go shopping markets. According to a 2011 report by the OMG BCN Fundació Miquel Agustí, there are 13 traditional varieties of Catalan tomato, including cor de bou

VINTAGE MOTHER & DAUGHTER GRAPHIC DESIGN For vintage Scandi furniture, try Noak Room Lydia Delgado and Miranda Makaroff Barcelona is an incubator for renowned (Roc Boronat, 69). At nearby Eterna, you’ll create fun, colourful fashion collections. graphic designers. We love Toormix’s find souvenirs from BCN’s industrial past Find the work of this family enterprise in posters (toormix.com) and Brosmind’s (Roc Boronat, 68). Gràcia (Sèneca, 28). drawings (brosmind.com).

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 16 Cool BCN 01. Pinc by Ana Tichy creates feminine, urban clothing 02. All the coolest eyes in BCN few tend towards the anonymous, box-like style, are protected by wooden shades, there are others that go the extra mile, indeed like this Palens model way beyond the extra mile, when it comes to 03. Accessories with history are OCMKPICPGHHQTVVQFQUQOGVJKPIDGƁVVKPIVJKU YJCV[QWoNNƁPFCV0WOQPYJGTG ƁPGEKV[6JGJQVGNU1JNCCTGCECUGKPRQKPV they use recycled materials GURGEKCNN[VJG1JNC$CTEGNQPC6JKUƁXGUVCT design boutique hotel has one of the most memorable façades in the city centre, with eyes on stalks decorating its neo-classical structure. Inside this building that was constructed in the oU[QWoNNƁPFVQRENCUUVCRCUCPCOC\KPI rooftop pool and a stylish cocktail bar. If you want something slightly less central, the Ohla Eixample opened its doors in 2016. Along with a modern industrial design, it incorporates new technology and creative architecture. ÆOhla Barcelona: Via Laietana, 49. ÆOhla Eixample: Corsèga, 289. www.ohlahotel.com

CATALAN WINE Catalonia’s most famous alcoholic drink is 2 undoubtedly cava, the bubbly white that had to change its name from champagne when that French area was awarded one of those pesky protected designations of origin. But while it’s a delicious tipple, there are other local vintages worth trying. For whites, ask about Penedès varieties (this is the region where most cava is made), while for red there’s Priorat (the money’s- no-object choice), Montsant (a worthy alternative to Priorat), and Conca de Barbara. A 2015 article in Time Out Barcelona’s Catalan edition repor ted that more than half of restaurant-goers here FQPoVQTFGT%CVCNCPYKPG&QPoVDGCUVCVKUVKEs go local. 1 3 A SANDWICH CALLED BIKINI (beefheart), pear tomatoes from Girona and ones habit hasn’t caught on as much in Barcelona. For most of us, the word conjures up images of to be hung in the kitchen, such as the tomàtiga de However, that’s not to say that the custom svelte, sun-kissed bodies. But for Barcelona ramellet. The last is the type recommended for pa FQGUPoVGZKUVCVCNNs[QWLWUVJCXGVQMPQYYJGTG residents, bikini equates to a ham and cheese amb tomàquet, and even if they’re picked in to look. Gata Mala in Gràcia, for example, is small sandwich, buttered on the outside before being summer, they can last right through winter. So and crowded but worth the battle for the treats toasted. It’s said the name comes from the keep your eyes open for this dangling delicacy, they serve up with each beer ordered (Rabassa, legendary Bikini nightclub in Les Corts (www. and don’t miss the chance to try bread rubbed 37). At Cal Chusco, in the seafront area of bikinibcn.com). Their twist on a croque-monsieur with tomato, one of the city’s favourite snacks. Barceloneta, order a beverage and you might be became so popular that bars across the city served ham, cheese, croquettes or whatever chef started to follow suit. Gooey in the middle, Isabel comes up with that day (Almirall Aixada, 5). crunchy on the outside and exceptionally FREE TAPAS Elbows ready. Mouth open. Prepare to feast. satisfying, the humble bikini has become a Although its precise origins are unknown, the regional treasure.Try a contemporary take on the Spanish tradition of offering a small bite to eat to old favourite at Tarranà, while more traditional accompany a drink order in a bar has been around HOTEL OHLA versions are served at Granja La Catalana. for several centuries. Unfortunately, unlike in With Barcelona’s tourist industry booming, ÆTarranà: Viladomat, 23 other cities such as Madrid and Granada, the hotels continue to go up all around town. While a ÆGranja La Catalana: Ronda de Sant Pere, 28.

BOOKS DESIGN PIECES You’ll be hard-pressed not to find a book A spot to find a variety of design products you really want to buy at La Calders (Ptge. is AOO (Sèneca, 8). We particular like de Pere Calders, 9), one of the city’s newer the items designed by the shop’s driving temples to the written word. force, Marc Morro.

MARIA DIASMARIA

17 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 16 great things to do in BCN

Barcelona is full of amazing sights but where do you start? Here’s our guide to the city’s essentials

1 Do a vermouth crawl! 4 Gats, where the artist and his 6 Walk on the arty side Everything tastes better peers gathered to dine and discuss Museums are on almost every accompanied by a good vermut, their trade. Lastly, visit the Museu corner in Barcelona, but one jewel especially with a bite to eat. Try Picasso, a beautiful medieval not to miss is the MNAC, with the house vermouth at classics building housing works from Catalan art from the Romanesque Bar Calders, La Pepita and Bar Pablo’s formative years. period to the mid-20th century. On Electricitat. a smaller scale, the Palau Robert is Gaixample for the sheer number free, has great exhibitions, and the of stores and clubs that cater to 5 Climb up the magical Montjuïc building itself is worth a gander. this clientele. Start the night with a 2 Discover the city on foot This ‘mountain’ is perfect for cocktail in Plata Bar; if dancing till Barcelona is the perfect size a leafy walk with great views, dawn is your goal, Metro is a great for strolling around. Stunning although it takes a bit of legwork 7 The Raval choice, as is Arena, where both buildings and parks abound, but to climb. With buildings from the Once called the ‘Barrio Chino’, this boys and girls are welcome. there’s also a Barcelona off the 1992 Olympic Games, as well as neighbourhood has inspired many beaten track: head for hidden the Botanic Gardens and a castle, a writer. Today, it’s a place where squares like El Sortidor , explore the effort is worth it. Back at the local businesses thrive in the form 10 The Mediterranean the charms of Sant Andreu, or visit bottom, the Mies van der Rohe of unique shops and restaurants Barcelona has just over four the village-like Sarrià. Pavillion and CaixaForum are while still maintaining some of its kilometres of beaches where you definitely places to check out. seedy underworld glamour. Street can spread out your towel, stab culture is booming here, alongside your umbrella into the sand, smear 3 Get to know the city’s history key sites like the MACBA, CCCB yourself with sun cream and find a Barcelona is full of diverse cultures and Filmoteca. very safe place for your rucksack. and heritages – along many What’s more, just a short drive or streets you’ll find signs of train journey away, you can take its history. Plaça del Rei, El 8 Hit a high note in concert in numerous other coastal towns Born Cultural Centre and Barcelona has excellent live blessed with gorgeous beaches. the Maritime Museum music venues, such as Apolo and are just some of the Razzmatazz, and great concert must-sees. halls. The Liceu opera house is a 11 Perfect your path to heaven survivor in splendour, with gold Visit some of the city’s leaf, plush carpets and ornate magnificent churches like Sant 4 See the city carvings, while L’Auditori is a sleek Pau del Camp, a rare example of of Picasso’s youth space with capacity for 2,400. Romanesque architecture, with Start at C/Mercè, 3, a stunning façade and amazing where the Picasso family cloister. The graceful basilica of once lived (the building Museu Picasso 9 Visit the gay heart of the city Santa Maria del Mar may be the unfortunately no longer Barcelona’s gay capital has long best surviving example of Catalan stands). Then head to Els been the Eixample, nicknamed Gothic.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 18 MARIA DIAS MARIA

Barcelona has just over four kilometres of beaches where you can spread out your CRISTINARECHE towel Port Vell

12 Discover your sweet tooth For posh chocolates in fancy packaging, head to Escribà or Bubó, where every bonbon is 15 Get out! a work of art. For an authentic The best place to take a break here Barcelona experience, stop by is at one of the many outdoor bars one of the cafés on C/Petritxol and cafés. Santa Marta is a hip for a thick, rich hot chocolate Barceloneta hangout with a huge favoured by locals (whipped terrace, while another option is cream on top optional). La Font del Gat, a historical spot close to the Fundació Miró. In the summer, the rooftop terraces 13 Barcelona’s Old Port of hotels like the Grand Hotel Raval With yachts, shops and cafés, Central or the Pulitzer are the Bar Mendizabal Port Vell is popular with locals places to be and be seen. FERNÁNDEZ IRENE for a weekend walk in the sun. In the same area, you’ll also find the Aquarium, the Catalan History 16 Enjoy a really good party Museum and the Columbus Once you’ve got to know Barcelona statue, which offers panoramic by day, let it all hang out in the best views across the city and sea. clubs in town for an unforgettable night. Sidecar is where indie rockers have been getting their 14 Much more than a club fix for 30 years, while Magic is the For many visitors, a stay in quintessential Barcelona rock Fundació Miró

Barcelona is not complete club. If funk and hip hop are more DIAS MARIA without heading to the iconic your thing, your best bet is Marula. Camp Nou. Even if football isn’t really your thing, you could check out a basketball game or take a turn or two around its ice rink, which is open all year.

19 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Think big

By Hannah Pennell

Innovation and research are forging our future. We look at the key projects and people in Catalonia seeking answers to the questions of today and tomorrow.

JOAN SALES

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 20 BCN Tech

In 2010, the Catalan Leading 04. Virtual reality treatment regional government created for ADHD the CERCA Institute of researchers The Psychiatry Service of Meet some key Catalan Research Centres, the Vall d’Hebron University members of an umbrella organisation Hospital, headed by Dr Josep- Catalonia’s scientific incorporating over 40 Antoni Ramos Quiroga, is the community different private centres first in Spain to launch a pilot that aims to encourage test to analyse the usefulness of flexibility, efficiency and the virtual reality in the treatment of recruitment of top scientists. Attention Deficit Hyperactivity Here are details of seven key Disorder (ADHD). The project, research projects currently carried out in collaboration with underway in Catalonia. the Catalan company Psious , follows the line taken by the Vall d’Hebron Research Institute 01. Distributed internet – led by Professor Joan Seoane (VHIR) in the analysis of new 5G telephony have developed liquid biopsies approaches to this disorder. An internet of intelligence requires of cerebrospinal fluid (CSF) as a The initiative received a Mobile new architectures and services that way to monitor brain tumours. Word Capital Barcelona award can interconnect people, objects Using this method, the CSF, which NÚRIA MONTSERRAT for technological innovation in and nature in more efficient and is present in high quantities in Junior group leader at the September 2016. The test uses dynamic ways than the current circulating central nervous system Institute for Bioengineering mindfulness techniques for the internet. There’s also a need for tumour DNA, is extracted by of Catalonia, specialising first time, while virtual reality new systems and protocols that lumbar puncture, meaning less in organ regeneration and allows professionals to use can transform information into discomfort and risk for patients stem cells. new knowledge, and the creation than traditional procedures to of intelligent environments for its extract brain tissue samples. management. Users can then be The liquid biopsy can be used This method of empowered to design, reconfigure for the prognosis, treatment, and manage the networks based identification and tracking of brain liquid biopsy on their own interests and needs. genome alterations over time. This A team at i2CAT, The Internet technique also suggests the option means less Research Centre, led by Dr Eduard of more precise, individualised discomfort and Escalona, is exploring new ways to treatment for each patient. manage future internet networks, www.vhio.net risk for patients enabling new functionalities than traditional and business models by means 03. Environmental of integrating technologies like ‘memories’ passed on procedures Software Defined Networking and In April 2017, scientists at the Network Function Virtualization, Centre for Genomic Regulation ALBERT TARANCÓN as well as developing pioneering (CRG) published findings that Head of the Nanoionics internet architectures based on the impact of environmental and Fuels Cell Group at the ultra-realistic environments to aid new paradigms beyond TCP/IP. change can be passed on in the Catalonia Institute for Energy patients’ concentration, the aim www.i2cat.net genes of tiny nematode worms Research, with focus on being to treat ADHA without the for at least 14 generations – the hydrogen technology. use of drugs. 02. Liquid biopsies most that has ever been seen in www.vhir.org At the Vall d’Hebron Hospital animals. Working in conjunction Oncology Institute, researchers with the Josep Carreras Leukemia 05. Discovering new species Research Institute and The At the Institut Català de Institute for Health Science Paleontologia Miquel Crusafont, Research Germans Trias i Pujol, research teams are investigating and led by Dr Ben Lehner, group the existence of previously leader of the EMBL-CRG Systems unknown species. For example, in Biology Unit, the researchers 2015, a team led by the institute’s noticed that the impact of new director, Dr David M. Alba, environmental change can be published details in Science passed on in the genes for many magazine of a new genus and more generations than previously species, Pliobates cataloniae, seen; they made the observation based on a skeleton recovered while studying C. elegans worms SERGI FIGUEROLA from the landfill of Can Mata carrying a transgene array – a long Chief Technology and (in Els Hostalets de Pierola in string of repeated copies of a gene Innovation Officer at i2CAT Catalonia). The fossil remains for a fluorescent protein that since 2013, his research belong to an adult female had been added into the worm includes new internet individual christened ‘Laia’ by genome using techniques of architectures. her discoverers. Laia weighed 4-5 genetic engineering. kg, consumed soft fruit items, www.crg.eu and moved through the forest

21 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 BCN Tech Leading researchers Meet some key members of Catalonia’s scientific community The adult Laia lived 11.6 million years ago, weighed around 4-5 kg and consumed

soft fruit items IÑAKI PERMANYER Research fellow at the Centre for Demographic Studies specialising in canopy by climbing through subjects such as social and hanging from branches. stratification. Pliobates lived 11.6 million years ago and precedes the divergence between hominids (great apes and humans) and hylobatids (gibbons), which has important implications for reconstructing the last common ancestor of both groups. www.icp.cat 06. Interactions between 07. Nanosatellites light and matter Space-based observations have The Quantum Nano- transformed our understanding Optoelectronic group at ICFO, of Earth, its environment, the led by Professor Frank Koppens, solar system and the universe. ANA CAÑO-DELGADO studies interactions between Moreover, space exploration has Professor at the Centre for light and matter at extreme played a key role in the provision Research in Agricultural limits. Several unique and novel of innovative technologies Genomics, her investigations techniques are exploited to confine for an extensive knowledge of are focused on plant light to nanometre-length scales the Earth in the globalisation biotechnology. and study physical processes at era. Today, such technologies ultra-fast timescales. Central have a significant impact on to these studies are a variety of telecommunications, climate novel materials that are only one monitoring and forecast, atom thick – graphene and 2D geolocalisation, and defence. materials – which show fascinating In this context, small satellites properties that are only just and, in particular, nanosatellites being discovered. The group also (1-10 kg), are gaining momentum develops new concepts for photo- as a disruptive solution for detection, imaging systems, optical accessing space in a rapid and modulation, nano-scale light more affordable manner. Having processing and switching, as well first launched a nanosatellite in as flexible and wearable health and 2016, a group at the Institute of fitness devices. The aim is to build Space Science of Catalonia (IEEC) prototypes of these disruptive under Professor Adriano Camps (of LETICIA TARRUELL technologies, in collaboration IEEC-UPC) plans to launch several Junior group leader at with industry. The group works such small satellites between 2017 The Institute of Photonic closely with the Graphene Flagship and 2020 covering the interests Sciences with a research programme, the EU’s largest of different public research programme on ultracold research initiative, with funding of centres and universities, and quantum gases. €1 billion for ten years. private companies for industrial www.icfo.eu applications. www.ieec.cat Q

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 22 BCN Tech Q&A we talk to... BARCELONA NATIVE AND chemical engineer Francesc FRANCESC Subirada became Director- SUBIRADA General of the Catalan LLUÍS ROVIRA has a PhD in biology, DG, Generalitat government’s Universities and but soon after he finished his doctorate Research dept Research Secretariat in 2016. he moved towards the management of scientific institutions, and today he’s How many people currently work in the director of CERCA, a foundation that research in Catalonia? brings together more than 40 research At the moment there are 25,500 centres across Catalonia. researchers. The percentage of foreigners is pretty high, especially in the more established Why is CERCA necessary? stages of research careers. It’s very necessary in Catalonia for various reasons. First the CERCA programme How has the profile of research changed here finances research centres with €100 recently? million every year. What’s more, it Perhaps the most significant evaluates these centres every four change in Catalonia is that our to five years... and we select the institutions have become much more directors of the centres. competitive. In terms of cutting-edge research, LLUÍS ROVIRA Why is the scientific sector so we are now second in terms of awards Director, CERCA important now to Catalonia? from the European Research The country aims to somewhat Council per million inhabitants. change its economic model... to a knowledge-based one, and Which research areas are the research is the fuel for that. most important in Catalonia? They comply exactly with How do you see the future of the sector? what the EU regards as key I’m an optimist, I think it can go very well. enabling technologies, We’ve overcome big obstacles in the last eg, nanotechnology, 20 years... and now we’re entering a new biomedicine and material phase, where we are not only generating sciences. Q high-level scientific knowledge, we are starting to sell technology like they do in institutes like MIT in the US. Catalonia is a small country but I think we’ll have a Nobel Prize in the next 10 or 15 years. Q LLUÍS TORNER completed his PhD at UPC in Barcelona, and his current research area is nonlinear optics. He’s the founding director of The Institute of Photonic Sciences (ICFO).

What ICFO is and how does it work? Catalonia will LLUÍS TORNER ICFO is a cutting-edge research centre, where Director, ICFO we seek discoveries with a global impact. Our have a Nobel Prize multidisciplinary research focuses on areas like nanoscience, new materials and sensors. in the next 10 or What’s your relationship with other global entities? We collaborate and compete with the most 15 years advanced centres in Europe and the USA. ICFOnians are continually going to conferences and working on collaborative projects abroad.

How do you see the future of investigation here? Various centres in the metropolitan area offer a combination rarely found in other parts of Europe. As well as the appeal of Barcelona, organisations like ICFO provide exceptional training opportunities for young researchers. Q

23 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Knowledge, the engine of Catalonia

The strength and innovation of the Catalan university system means the region is well set to play a key role in inventing the future. By Montse Daban Catalonia is one of the places in source of human capital, agents southern Europe where quality for the transformation of society. higher education is most widely ‘We cannot predict the future, available to its population and, but we have the opportunity by extension, to society at large. to invent it, based on sound The devolution to Catalonia of science and technology certain university and research foresight.’ This comes from competencies from the central the book Inventing the Future Spanish government happened (1963) by Dennis Gabor, who about 30 years ago, and since later received a Nobel Prize for then the Catalan government his work in holography. (Generalitat) has created an entire Catalonia is currently working university system, with its own on many large global projects personality and model. Now, aimed at inventing the almost half of the 250,000 students future, such as the European in the higher education system The Genomics Commission’s FET Flagships: Core faciliy are enrolled in universities among (UPF) works visionary, science-driven, the top 100 centres in Europe. In on new genetic large-scale research initiatives 1986, less than 350,000 Catalans analysis that address significant scientific had a higher education degree; BSC. Barcelona and technological challenges. FET today, it’s more than 1.2 million. Supercomputing Flagships run for about 10 years, Between 2003 and 2015, the Center. and have a total budget of around number of people employed €1 billion. They bring together in R&D as part of the working many research institutions, population rose by 50 percent, including academia, large industry while the scientific production and SMEs. Graphene (see page of Catalonia went from 0.1 22) and Human Brain are two FET percent to 1.3 percent of Flagships that involve Catalan worldwide production between R&D organisations, including 12 1981 and 2014. When it comes public universities, 42 research to internationalisation, as a UAB. Catalan Institute centres, three large infrastructures of Nanoscience whole, Catalan universities & Nanotechnology. (Alba Synchrotron, Barcelona teach 168 master degrees Supercomputing Center, and where more than 50 percent the National Center for Genomic of students are from another Analysis) and about 300 academia- country. based spin-offs. To have achieved all this, a In 2014 Barcelona was designated basic agreement has remained the first ‘European City of Science in place about the key policies and Innovation’ by the EU, and in on which the model is built, 2013 the MIT Technology Review regardless of which political wrote that two of the world’s top party may be governing at three physics and astronomy any given time. Now the institutions are located near the challenge is to maintain city: the Institute of Photonic and build on this success. Sciences, and the Catalan To that end, the Generalitat Institution for Research and is planning to adopt a Advanced Studies. Catalonia National Pact for Universities with may not be a world power in the aim of making the system ALBA Synchroton demographic terms, with just a main driver for progress in A key facility of 7.5 million inhabitants. But it is UAB. the region. In such a model, undoubtedly a power in terms of students become a significant talent and creativity. Q

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 24 Urban museum You don’t need to onuments are and the consolidation of the visit the MACBA to out of fashion. ‘liquid values’ and ‘soft power’ of Outsize postmodernity. And this can be see 21st-century human seen in the monuments – sorry, art. Just open your figures, public artworks – of Barcelona, sometimes mostly funded by official eyes – there’s art all on horseback, institutions. Will it be long before around you. cast in we see public artworks funded bronze to via Kickstarter? Will there always commemorate heroes of the be griping when the authorities By Ricard Mas Photos Maria Dias M fatherland or the fallen in unveil a new artwork, because countless wars. This is the era of people would rather see the money Facebook, in which public life has spent on something more useful? been replaced by shares, likes and What’s the point of art anyway? In self-satisfied selfies. Statues like your own home, you choose the the monument to 19th-century decorations, but on the street… dramatist Frederic Soler Pitarra, Is that why there are so many on La Rambla, look like monuments with a minimalist anachronistic relics of a bygone aesthetic? Could we draw up a list era, somewhere between totem of the least fashionable subjects Æ poles and over-iced cakes. for public art in Barcelona? And The age of monuments came to an another with subjects that are on end with the attack on the World the up? For example, military, Trade Center. Nowadays, the most religious and political leaders are important memorials are built on the way out. Writers (preferably with empty space, like Frederic poets), causes like Aids and Amat’s ‘SOLC. A Salvador Espriu’ oppressed minorities, civil society, (2014), a concrete-lined trench at and interactive installations the top of Passeig de Gràcia, shaped get more popular by the day. All like an imprint of the giant obelisk this and more can be seen on the behind it to commemorate Catalan city council’s website. In the ‘by poet Salvador Espriu. theme,’ section, the ‘Art Públic’ The 20th century was the century link takes you to an exhaustive of utopias, of two world wars, catalogue of public artworks, fully genocide, the atomic bomb and translated: a total of 2,815 works the Cold War. The 21st has scarcely spanning 800 years of the history been more peaceful, but has seen of the city’s monuments, with the evolution of concepts like ‘the photographs, historical essays and welfare state’ and ‘public interest’, details of each work. Q

25 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Urban museum Æ

Comic Mural DANIEL TORRES, 2011 Comics for grown-ups first arrived in Barcelona during the ’70s. One of the main currents in the new genre was the ligne claire or ‘clear line’ style of drawing, pioneered in Belgium in works such as Hergé’s Tintin. The Norma Editorial publishing house immediately threw itself behind the ligne claire, publishing comic artists including Mariscal, Mique Beltrán, Micharmut, Sento and Daniel Torres. And it was Torres who was commissioned to decorate the exterior of the Norma Editorial warehouse in Poblenou, with a beautiful and nostalgic homage to an era. C/Fluvià (Poblenou).

THE ANTS JOAN SALVAT-PAPASSEIT & JOSÉ MANUEL PINILLO (CREATION), 2004 ÆMural, 7 x 7 m Where Passeig del Born crosses C/Rec, let your eyes wander up to light on a calligram by Joan Salvat- Papasseit, Catalan literature’s best- loved avant-garde poet. It comes from his 1921 book L’irradiador del port i les gavines (The Port Beacon and the Seagulls), and reads: ‘Camí del sol / per les rutes amigues / les formigues’ (‘On the way to the sun / along friendly routes / go the ants’). Its transfer to this monumental scale was the idea of José Manuel Pinillo, and formed part of the Mapapoètic project, held to mark BCN’s 2004 Universal Forum of Cultures. What a pity there aren’t more tributes to poets like this one.

AIDS MURAL KEITH HARING, 1989 (2014) ÆMural, 2 x 30 m On February 27, 1989, the US artist Keith Haring painted a 30-metre- long mural in Plaça Salvador Seguí. It read: ‘Todos juntos podemos parar el sida’ (‘Together we can stop Aids’). Below, a series of human ƁIWTGUYGTGEJCUGFD[CUPCMG

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 26 Urban museum

whose tail they cut off and on which ART they put a condom. Haring died a TALK year later, himself a victim of Aids. In 1992, as part of a renovation project, the mural was destroyed, but not before an exact survey had ÆTHE ROAMING CAT been made, and paint samples Fernando Botero’s cat taken. In 2014, the mural was must be the best-travelled reconstructed in the MACBA’s back sculpture in town. Seven courtyard, on a wall that separates metres long and weighing the museum from C/ Ferlandina. QXGTVYQVQPPGUKVYCUƁTUV the same time more ephemeral tubes built into the ground, which installed in Ciutadella park, in than a kiss. Or to put it another way, passers-by can speak, sing or shout 1989. In 1992 it was moved nothing more eternal than into. Responding to these sounds, a TO THE CASTELLERS to the Olympic ring and, a thousands of digital photographs program designed by Rebeca few months later, to a site ANTONI LLENA, 2012 near the medieval shipyards. reproduced in ceramics and Sánchez generates synaesthesic ÆSteel tubes, 25 m tall In 2003 the feline took up arranged in a mural to form a single effects via a complex set of colour This towering monument to the residence in its current home giant kiss. This was the idea dreamt combinations, produced by lines of Catalan tradition of human tower on Rambla del Raval. up by Joan Fontcuberta, publicised LEDs in the ground. The colours building, castells, took up more in the newspaper El Periódico, and move in waves, forming ever- space in the newspapers than it ÆA CRUEL CUT made a reality with photos emailed changing patterns of rippling light. FQGUKPKVUƁPCNNQECVKQPDGJKPF%KV[ in by readers. And all encapsulated Musicians have adopted the 9JGPVJGƁIWTGQHC[QWVJQP Hall. Commissioned from the artist the Font del Geni Català, on by the motto of the 1714 installation, and come to translate in 2004, it was planned to go up Pla del Palau, was unveiled tercentenary celebrations, ‘Viure their playing into a visual spectacle. near Santa Caterina market. A in 1856, he was completely lliure’ (‘Live free’) – participants had series of setbacks almost naked. A few days later, the VQUWDOKVKOCIGUTGƂGEVKPIYJCV consigned the piece to limbo, but it city’s bishop ordered his freedom means to them. It’s history MEETING POINT YCUƁPCNN[KPUVCNNGFYKVJ genitals be removed, and as the history of ordinary people, JORDI BENITO, 2009 the hole covered. In 1980 it OQFKƁECVKQPUNKMGCTGFWEGFJGKIJV and you can see it in Plaça Isidre ÆEngraved on granite was revealed, but only the and without a metal sheet at the testicles remained. During Nonell, close to the Cathedral. Meeting points are an attempt to top. At its foot is a verse by poet Paul the ’90s he was endowed with create a point of reference in non- Celan: ‘Sóc més jo si tu ets més tu’ (‘I a resin tube, and in 2008, his places. This meeting point, however, am more me if you are more you’), a parts were fully reinstated. BRUUMRUUM! also serves to commemorate the tribute to the castellers’ spirit. DAVID TORRENTS AND MAURICI words of the grammarian Pompeu Locals have overcome their initial ÆINCOGNITO GINER, 2013 Fabra – ‘Amb un acte de paraula opposition, and now people scribble ÆLight installation podem expressar més d’un The city’s best-hidden drawings in chalk around the work, sculptures are the 1928 ‘Light installation’ is a provisional pensament’(‘With an act of speech almost as if they were heeding statues of the Virgin Mary label for an artistic creation that we can express more than one Celan’s words. in Plaça Catalunya by hovers between the monumental thought’) – chosen by the poet Enric Monjo and Eusebi and the playful. How to describe it? Antoni Marí, converted into a logical Arnau. In the anti-Catholic In front of the D-HUB, where formula by the scientist Jorge THE WORLD IS BORN IN atmosphere of the Civil Avinguda Meridiana meets Plaça de Wagensberg, then turned into an EVERY KISS War, they escaped notice les Glòries Catalanes, there’s an artwork by Jordi Benito, who died and were places of discreet JOAN FONTCUBERTA, 2014 public prayer. open space that lights up when before the work was inaugurated. ÆCeramic photograph, 3.80 x 8 m darkness falls. But it doesn’t light ;QWECPƁPFKVKPVJGGPVT[YC[QHVJG There is nothing more eternal and at up randomly. There are speaking Provença FGC station.

27 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 The art of

‘Techno’ Wall painted by ‘Warhol’ Kenor, found Mural by Uriginal close to the at a local police Torrassa metro car pound

Ana Mas Projects Based in a 1970s industrial buiding

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 28 The cultural district of L’Hospitalet is on the rise thanks to the contribution of street art as a catalyst for creativity. L’H By Eugènia Sendra

IS IT POSSIBLE to give life embrace, an initiative that bears back to the old factories and similarities to Brooklyn and disused industrial spaces in Berlin? All sorts from visual arts L’Hospitalet de Llobregat? This to music and theatre via design dilemma for Barcelona’s next- and R&D. The most visible are door neighbour and Catalonia’s the murals decorating various second largest city arose in rundown corners of the city. One 2013 during a consultation of the most established projects process to map out its future. In is that supported by Contorno response, a concept started to Urbano: every month they invite take shape: what is known today an artist to paint the same space, as the cultural district, a hub of the wall of the Torrassa bridge; creativity, innovation and culture people like Rasmus Nilausen, that stretches from the barrios of Amaya Arrazola, Elbi Elem and El Centre and Sant Laura Llaneli have Josep to other parts all left their mark. of the city. ‘We soon ‘It’s an Graffiti and street realised it was a art as a cultural and district with an open open social integration tool perimeter where any district can also be seen on entity connected to the Isabel la Catòlica culture could find where any bridge, and on two its place,’ says David cultural walls painted by local Stendhal Quirós, councillor for artists at the time Books culture. entity can of a gathering for Creators of paper Word spread like European creative delights wildfire and thanks find its districts. The totally also to tax incentives place’ figurative wall by from City Hall for Uriginal takes us back industries committed to the world of Warhol to culture, there’s an and the Factory, and increasing number of abstract electronic creatives based there. music inspired the And what genres futuristic effort does this initiative by Kenor. Q L’Hospitalet Art

Can Trinxet At the start of the 20th 1century, this was a key textile factory that manufactured velvet for tram seats. Closed for many Can years, this is one of the places Trinxet that the council has proposed for renovation. Until that happens this industrial space in Santa Eulàlia hosts different events such as the exhibition of Gina Giménez (Gallery Weekend 2016) or the 2017 show about Warhol’s Factory. Æ Carretera de Santa Eulàlia, 182-212. Edifici Freixas Artists, designers and also 2small-scale manufacturing share a home in this industrial ESCOLA D’ART SERRA I ABELLA I ABELLA I ABELLA I SERRA D’ART ESCOLA building that in the ’70s was a Philips television workshop and factory. The Freixas Building is instantly recognisable for its yellow façade, and also for one of the entities now inhabiting it: La Nave collective, with space for working with ceramics and paint; the nerve centre for the industrial design studio Melmelada; and Entresòl Primera, an artist’s Centre Cultural collective that Miquel Garcia, Tecla Sala Mercè Hernández, Damià Vives and Gemma Draper are all part of. ÆGlòria, 5.

Cirque du Soleil Centre Cultural The renowned Quebec Tecla Sala 3entertainment factory 4This is the city’s main COSTA DA MANU arrives in L’Hospitalet in spring cultural base. It’s both a library 2018 to present Totem. But and an art centre, where you can it seems likely that the circus discover what’s hot in visual arts company will stick around until and contemporary thinking. 2030, making the city one of its In the back part of the one-time main southern European hubs and factory site is the Arranz Bravo a venue where they’ll regularly foundation, where they show present new shows. work by the Barcelona painter Æ Travessia Industrial, 50. and are dedicated to promoting up-and-coming young artists. Nogueras Blanchard Æ Av. Josep Tarradellas, 44. and Ana Mas Projects 5These two neighbouring Stendhal galleries both fled the big smoke of Books Barcelona in 2015. They continue 6In a light building that used to attract loyal fans with special to house chemical industries, Saturday viewings and art festivals, the painter Carles Gabarró now such as Gallery Weekend. At the has his studio. It’s also the HQ September 2017 event, Nogueras of Stendhal Books. Elisabet Blanchard presents a series Parés and Álvaro Garcia publish Edifici commissioned by noteworthy books of poetry, illustration, Freixas artists – Richard Wentworth kicks photography and essays that things off – and Ana Mas has they say they would like to invited sculptor Alberto Peral to receive as gifts. Paper delights work at the gallery. made in L’H. Æ Isaac Peral, 7. Æ Cobalt, 13.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 30 31 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 From the street By Hannah Pennell Photos Maria Dias

BARCELONA IS A stylish city. Home to internationally renowned fashion companies, it lends its name to a gorgeous Mies van der Rohe chair and has an urban aesthetic that delights many. But what of its people? How do they dress? Can they match their home town in the style stakes? This is a place that has independent clothing retailers almost as numerous as bars, a thriving design sector and a largely non-judgemental attitude to what others wear, all of which makes for a varied spectrum of looks on local streets. Here’s a snapshot (or four) Some want to make an instant declaration with their attire. Barça fans regularly of the kinds of things that and proudly wear their azulgrana (blue and burgundy) shirts. Anyone in a bright Barcelona residents like yellow T-shirt is likely to favour Catalan to wear. independence – these garments have been sold in recent years to wear on September 11, Catalonia Day. Then there are more subtle expressions of self – many favour special footwear or a stand-out piece of jewellery set against a more restrained outfit. These are people who care about what they wear, but are unlikely to go for the big statement look. It’s often easy to tell who isn’t local, because their clothes don’t blend quite so seamlessly into this city in which they find themselves. The fine folk on the following pages are but a tiny sample of the population’s sartorial sense. Q

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 32 Street fashion

Estefania, 35 

Carrer de la Volta d’en Colomines

WORKS Stylist assistant and shop worker.

WEARS Top and jumper from Zara, Mango jeans, Nike trainers. The scarf was a gift from Norway. She likes retrieving lost items and the memory of artisans.

Juan Antonio  Carrer del Comerç

WORKS Real estate agent.

WEARS Persol glasses, jacket by El Ganso, an Armani shirt, Geox trainers. The bike is from Italian company MBM. He says he’s a fan of Italian brands.

33 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Street fashion Coco, 26 

Museu del Disseny

WORKS In charge of marketing for Wiredcraft.

WEARS Italian jeans, jacket from China, scarf from Beatriz Furest and espadrilles by Toni Pons. Comparing BCN with Shanghai, she says quality design is better priced here.

Felipe, 29

 Parc de les Tres Xemeneies

WORKS Journalist and translator for ‘lamono’ magazine.

WEARS H&M T-shirt, Globe trousers, Vans trainers, ‘lamono’ hat and Bucherer watch. He posts his drawings on Instagram (@doyjaimefelipe).

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 34 35 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 This is harmony

When Catalan chef Ferran Adrià published his first book, El Sabor del Mediterraneo (1993), he found that it was the mar i muntanya (‘sea and mountain’) dishes that contained ‘the signs of revolutionary and experimental identity’ of his cooking. The quote comes from gourmet Jaume Fàbrega, who confirmed that these recipes have a uniqueness not shared with any other European cuisine. Today, chefs are still inspired by unexpected dishes that visitors to the region look at with astonishment before daring to try. If you don’t sample them, it’s your loss.

By J o s e p S u c a r r a t s Photos Iván Moreno

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 36 SWORD RAZORS WITH FRIED MUSHROOMS Sergi de Meià Sergi de Meià leads an ongoing masterclass, continuing the reinvention of Catalan cooking. For this piece, we wanted to include his extravagant dish featuring sea and land snails with smoked seaweed and chorizo. But the snails weren’t in season. Instead he has canyuts (‘sword razor s’) – which is what they call small razor clams in the Delta de l’Ebre region of Catalonia – with tomatoes and fried wild mushrooms. It’s a sea and mountain dish in which the foresty taste of the fungi replaces the forcefulness of meat. ‘And the iodised flavour of the sword razors is compensated for by the sweetness and acidity of the tomatoes,’ adds De Meià. Aribau, 106 (Eixample). T. 93 125 57 10. Æwww.restaurantsergidemeia.cat

37 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Sea and mountain CATALAN PAELLA Suquet de l’Almirall Uff, the paellas of Quim Marqués have upset the neighbours! It’s well-known in Catalonia that purists in Valencia accuse them of confusing ‘paella’ with ‘rice with stuff’. But Marqués, a chef from the seaside barrio of Barceloneta, and the partner with him in the kitchen at Suquet de l’Almirall, Manel, keep doing their own thing. In 2014, to mark the restaurant’s 25th anniversary, they thought up the paella catalana as an homage to the whole region. The result was a monumental sea and mountain dish: Blanes squid, Barceloneta crayfish, Maresme peas, Delta de l’Ebre rice, gall negre chicken from Penedès, Les Garrigues sausage and plums. Extensively delicious. ÆPg. de Joan de Borbó, 65 (Barceloneta). T. 93 221 62 33. www.suquetdelalmirall.com

BROTH MEATBALL WITH SQUID La Falconera Subsitute the madeleine for a giant meatball (pilota) and Proust for the chef and former advertising creative Xavi Luque: the effect’s the same. When, in 2016, Luque and his brother Miquel took over the Taverna Mediterrània to convert it into La Falconera, they created a new menu which featured family faves. Such as their mother’s pilota de caldo. The recipe passed through the quick mind of Xavi Luque to become the base of a baroque sea and mountain dish: the meatball is bathed in scorpion fish stock, served with squid and mixed with a duck’s egg. A rarity that, all MEATBALLS WITH CUTTLEFISH together, works. ÆEnric Granados, 58 (Eixample). T. 608 80 49 23. CHICKEN WITH KING PRAWNS Allium Freixa Tradició Finding the snail logo of the Slow Food Chicken with king prawns movement on the door of a restaurant RED MULLET WITH PORK JOWL (pollastre amb llagostins) is a direct surrounded by tapas bars and pizzerias Disfrutar relative of chicken with lobster, that are best avoided is a real comfort. They open the fish down the which Catalan writer Josep Pla Just as comforting are the meatballs middle, remove the bones, put a included among his three local with cuttlefish (mandonguilles amb sípia) fine loin of Iberian ham on top, dishes that ‘turn people’s heads’ they serve there. This is my favourite and accompany it with so-called (the others were black rice with Catalan dish. It has everything: the aubergine gnocchi that explode shellfish and niu stew from singular mix of meat and fish we’ve in the mouth with a delicate Palafrugell). In times past, lobster sought for this article and a picada (the bitterness. To make a dish like was a poor person’s grub; it went base of almonds, bread and liquid often this, you need a lot of know-how bad quickly and fishermen used it used in Catalan cooking) that creates or the resulting mess could be only because otherwise it would a rich sauce. The meatballs by Allium’s epic. But as Oriol Castro, Eduard be thrown out. Nowadays, it’s chef, Jordi Casas, melt in your mouth as Xatruch and Mateu Casñas were extremely expensive. But there’s no does the accompanying cuttlefish. When three mainstays during the most need to yearn for this dish thanks to possible, Casas uses organic produce golden period at the multi-award- chef Josep Maria Freixa, who uses and he’s a true lover of classic Catalan winning El Bulli restaurant, they king prawns instead of lobster. The cuisine. An unusual combination to find can imagine an unusual mar i battle of flavours ends up, in his pot, in the Barri Gòtic. muntanya dish and make it work creating a perfectly balanced meal. ÆCall, 17 (Gòtic). T. 93 302 30 03. without making us suffer. ÆSant Elies, 22 (Sant Gervasi - Galvany) www.alliumrestaurant.es ÆVillarroel, 163 (Eixample). T. 93 348 68 96. T. 93 209 75 59. www.freixatradicio.com www.disfrutarbarcelona.com

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 38 EYES AND EARS Culture of land and sea

Ç The Magic Mountain / Death in Venice Thomas Mann located these two literary landmarks in altitudes that differ by thousands of metres. The Magic Mountain takes place in the Sanatori Wald in Davos, Switzerland, while Death in Venice occurs in a Venetian hotel and adjoining beach.

Ç The Grand Budapest Hotel / Life Aquatic Wes Anderson submerged a colourful crew with Bill Murray at the helm in Life Aquatic (2004). In CRAYFISH WITH BACON The Grand Budapest Hotel (2014) he transferred his cast to a hotel in Can Boneta RICE WITH ‘CAPIPOTA’ AND EEL central Europe surrounded by sheer “It’s normal that, with the Catalan La Mundana peaks and snowy landscapes. cuineta that we do, we have a mar i Alain Guiard and Marc Martínex muntanya dish every time we change wanted a sea and mountain option the menu,” says Joan Boneta, chef for La Mundana, a restaurant in at Can Boneta. The diminutive word Sants neighbourhood that’s cool cuineta (‘little cuisine’) is said in a with both locals and some folks tone that’s part affection, part humility abroad. However, they felt it was from a man who came late to cooking up to them to move away from (he was previously an architect) in an the classic marriage of pork and unpretentious restaurant. But those of shellfish. ‘As we work a lot with us who have sat at a table there know smoked products, it occurred to his dishes deserve the recognition us to think up a dish with eel,’ says that we’re giving to the crayfish and Guiard. The result is rice with pig’s bacon (escarmalans i cansalada) with trotters (the pota in capipota means Ç Mar y montaña parmentier of wild mushrooms and feet) and smoked eels, created as La Fonoteca Barcelona and Shook sheep’s cheese. A plate that, from the a tapa to share. The gelatine is the Down gathered unreleased songs sea and the mountain, seems to shout, common thread in a recipe that from 14 up-and-coming Barcelona ‘Barcelona, this is autumn!’ made its debut in October 2016. bands, such as Vàlius, Ran Ran Ran ÆBalmes, 139 (Eixample). T. 93 218 31 93. And having seen its initial success, and Elsa de Alfonso y Los Prestigio, www.canboneta.com it seems set to stay for a long time. for this album that includes tasty ÆVallespir, 93 (Sants) T. 93 408 80 23.  treats like a cover of ‘These boots are www.lamundana.cat made for walking’ by Les Sueques.

39 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Sea and mountain

COD WITH PEROL SAUSAGE La Mar Salada For the 2016 autumm-winter gastro season, chef Marc Singla challenged himself to create a subtler, lighter version of the classic, powerful mar i muntanya dishes he knew. And in his take, nothing is left out: cod (bacallà), perol sausage and chickpeas (cigrons). What most surprised us about this version is the variety of textures: an almost liquid botifarra (sausage), ultra- smooth creamy chickpeas and pil-pil sauce crowning the cod. It’s a display of culinary talent from the creator of this plate – a lover of mar i muntanya whose rice in this genre is worthy of a standing ovation – that few chefs can achieve. ÆPg. de Joan de Borbó, 58-59 (Barceloneta) T. 93 221 10 15. www.lamarsalada.cat

VEAL RAVIOLI, KING PRAWNS AND SHELLFISH SAUCE 2254 Restaurant The Sicilian owner of 2254 (the number refers to how many kilometres he covered when he moved from Palermo to Barcelona) says that in Italy, ‘mixing meat and fish is very typical, like in the area around Girona’. Indeed, the veal ravioli cooked at low temperatures with shellfish doesn’t have the Catalan roots that we thought. ‘Rather it’s a connection between the cuisine of north Italy – ravioli filled with veal are very Piedmontese – and that of the south – shellfish cream is typically Sicilian.’ Wherever they originated, it’s a total sea and mountain effort. ÆConsell de Cent, 335 (Eixample). T. 93 528 60 02. www.restaurante2254.es

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 40

Man, you can eat well on Mandri Discover the gourmet joys of this uptown street.

By Pau Roca Photos Irene Fernández

Lío de 4

us who were already here and the new ones Lifelong friends have brought a lot of strength to the place Æ Classic restaurants for eating your fill in recent times.’ That’s the thinking of Joan Pujadó, the owner of Bar Mandri (Mandri, In all honesty we can’t say that Mandri is the 60), which in November 2016 celebrated prettiest street in Barcelona. And it’s not its 50th anniversary. It’s said – and we exactly in a neighbourhood that has a lot can confirm it without hesitation – that going on. However, from the beginning of the they serve some of the best patatas bravas 20th century, this street, which is just over 600 in the city. The battered artichoke also metres long, has become an important spot deserves a prize. for nights out in the traditionally bourgeois Along with Bar Mandri and Claudia there barrio of Bonanova. ‘Over time, locals found are any number of classic eateries we can they didn’t need to go to other parts of the mention, places where you still see wives city to eat well or have a drink’, explains Jorge dressed in furs and husbands in spotless suits Perarnau, owner and chef of Claudia (Bigai, munching down on the historical selection 3). This restaurant has been open for almost of mini burgers at Montesquiu (Mandri, 56) 30 years and is one of the most famous in the or the best fried fish in the area at Pescadito area. They serve around 100 meals a day, BY METRO de Mandri (Mandri, 54); or at Bar Bero even though ‘what most people order is the Metro lines 9 and 10 (Mandri, 35), with its excellent bikinis meat cooked on stone. It’s delicious!’ says will have a station in (toasted ham-and-cheese sandwiches) and Perarnau. Claudia isn’t quite on Mandri, but Mandri. But we don’t patatas bravas, and tasty beer on tap; or at it’s one of the busiest in this zone that in the know when. Originally Escocés (Mandri, 23), a truly vintage bar past few years has been transformed by the it was to be 2007, that’s been open since 1955 and still has arrival of new restaurants. This development then 2013; now they the same age-old aesthetic and style when means that Mandri and its surrounds – say it’ll be in 2020. it comes to serving. And we mustn’t forget including streets that cross it like Bigai and Shanghai (Bisbe Sivilla, 48), one of the best Bisbe Sivilla – are more colourful and active. Chinese restaurants in Barcelona, which is ‘Nowadays there are a lot of great marvellously managed by the maestro José restaurants in Mandri and nearby. Those of María Kao. Q

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 42 Chico

Bar Mandri

THE DOCTOR The street’s with oxtail, as well as the home-made desserts. The street’s name, so say The chef is José Miguel Manzanal, who has the old-timers, worked in such illustrious places as Cachitos, newcomers is an homage Dos Palillos and Koy Shunka. ÆThese places have updated and expanded to the inventor Along the same gastronomic lines is Chico their menus of Cerebrino (Mandri, 29), which for 70 years was a bakery. Mandri, a Today you can enjoy tapas and small dishes, The Kao family is a good example of how headache of which the baked aubergine and octopus this area has been transformed and how the medicine from crackling are two of the star creations. In just over younger generations have turned around the 20th century. 18 months, this restaurant, which is managed traditional businesses. Mr Kao has been by Gonzalo Ros and Joan Ferrer (who both came in charge at Shanghai since 1976 while his from the renowned Grup Tragaluz), has become daughters have opened, just next door, Kao one of the best in the area. Dim Sum (Bisbe Sivilla, 48), specialising in the And these aren’t the only new establishments delicious eponymous sacks. Developments like on Mandri: Once Upon A Time (Mandri, 32) this explain how Mandri has become a gastro is a small place with the best terrace on the hub for all ages, tastes and budgets. street and a full set lunch menu (with options ‘It’s important to relocate what Barcelona like courgette noodles and seafood rice). Close has to offer and be able to move to other by is Café Dore (Mandri, 36), an ideal place neighbourhoods where, traditionally, there for the drinks to get your night started. On hasn’t been signature cooking at reasonable neighbouring streets are Tremenda (Maó, 25), a prices. Now there’s a lot more choice, more small pizzeria with an orgasmic mushroom and people come expressly to Mandri , not just truffle pizza served in portions by the weight; locals.’ So says Carina Soler-Lio, one of the Freiduria de Pauli (Bisbe Sivilla, 46), where four owners of Lío de 4 (Mandri, 22). This Galicians Mara and Paulino serve cockles as big welcoming gastrobar opened in late 2015 and as clams and as tasty as oysters; and Masaya has made fresh, market-bought produce a (Bisbe Sivilla, 42), a Japanese restaurant that’s feature on the street. Try their lip-smacking the perfect example of the Catalan saying ‘bo, Menorcan omelette or the exquisite brioche bonic i barat’ –‘tasty, good and cheap’. Q

43 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Hamburger heaven From classic flavours to the most creative varieties, burgers are big news in the gastro world. If only they all tasted as good as these ones

La Santa del Born If you’re a meat lover, then this is the place for you. And if you’re Barba-Rossa Beach Bar a fan of veggies, it’s also perfect for you! At La Santa del Born This bar has it all: US food and a surfer, biker, Californian you’ll discover a different kind of place with its own character ambience. They serve the best burgers from Route 66, as and personality, and a range of dishes created with the highest well as ribs, nachos and the popular Surfer fries (potatoes quality ingredients. Don’t miss the Black Angus hamburger, fried with bacon and surfing on a wave of cheese). The and all their meats are worth sampling. They also have a great Fat Elvis Burger is a must for those with the most daring range of vegetarian burgers, which are simply delicious. stomachs, and there’s also a Barba-Rossa in the nearby ÆCarrer de la Pescateria, 6. Tel. 93 268 73 89. seaside town of Castelldefels. Æ Marquès de l’Argentera, 25 (Born). T. 93 488 65 96. Castelldefels: Passeig Marítim, 209. T. 93 124 88 64. www.barbarossabeachbar.com

Bar Centro Burgers & Craft Beer The combination of a gourmet burger and a craft beer is always a winner. In this bar, where they specialise in that perfect partnership, you’ll find 11 different burgers, all cooked on the grill (volcanic stone) and made using protected designation of origin aged Galician beef. Want a recommendation? La Cerveseria Clandestina The one with brie, wild Take your pick from 16 different hamburgers made using mushrooms and wasabi 100-percent organic Galician beef, and which include mayonnaise. Accompany the most classic kinds as well as innovations such as it with one of the craft Pebre Verd (Green Pepper) and Jalapeños, all of them beers on the menu and an enticement to visit this bar. Vegetarians will also find you’re all set for a great options for them, plus there’s a range of craft beers to suit meal. all tastes. Æ Casp, 55 (Eixample Dret). ÆCòrsega, 611 (Sagrada Família). T. 93 530 72 77. T. 93 192 52 55. www.barcentrobcn.es

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 44 Promotional feature

Timesburg This place started as a tiny hamburger joint, and now Timesburg has eight establishments around Hard Rock Café Barcelona. It’s become popular thanks, among Just hearing the words ‘Hard Rock Cafe burgers’, makes other things, to gourmet creations like a hamburger us start to salivate. The Atomic Burger, the Big Band made with wagyu beef, the option to have organic Burger, the popular Legendary Burger… Finding these meat, and fried potatoes based on a recipe from iconic hamburgers - synonyms for the best Americana the grandmother of one of the partners that are cooking and made using quality, local meat and fresh nothing short of addictive. Buns stamped with the products - on offer is always a real pleasure. And if you restaurant name and spaces that are welcoming, like to try something new, their menu constantly features colourful, urban and Mediterranean make us love new creations. Timesburg even more. Æ Plaça de Catalunya, 21 (Ciutat Vella). T. 93 270 23 05. www.hardrock.com Æ Casanova, 246. T. 93 631 78 13. www.timesburg.com

Bernie’s Diner Paying homage to those authentic American diners we’ve all seen on screen, Bernie’s Diner specialises in some of the best food and culture from the US. This classic retro-diner offers everything you might expect from true Americana cooking, all made with top- quality ingredients. NBA-CAFE You can savour Right at the heart of Barcelona, and located in a historical a premium neoclassical building, the NBA-CAFÉ is a fantastic venue with hamburger views over La Rambla. As soon as you step inside, you’ll be accompanied surprised by the authentic sense of being on a basketball court by great music and you’ll feel as though you’re actually in an NBA game. But in a unique if the atmosphere is surprising, then the menu will leave you atmosphere. stunned. Authentic American cuisine created with the best Æ Via Laietana, 20. Tel. 93 products. They go far beyond the typical fare there, and what’s 185 77 35 berniesdiner.com more, they have special menus for kids and groups. Æ Les Rambles, 120. Tel. 93 302 48 66. www.nbacafe.com/

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45 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Shopping & Style Edited by Eugènia Sendra timeout.com/barcelona/shopping-style

LOOK #2 Contrast the femininity of the Nookie Wood dress (€145, nookiewood. com) and the raffia turban by Eliurpi (€95, see below), with the neutral and fresh LOOK #1 Vans (€85). The Lacoste jacket (€130, lacoste.es) meets the trend for sportswear. Complete the look with Lee jeans (€170, eu.lee. com), Vans trainers (€85, vans.es) and the TSPTR T-shirt, (on sale at Lolos, Lluna, 2). Æ Local label Many of these clothes are created nearby. Yerse has its roots in the town of Sabadell (yerse.com); Sweaterhouse is based in Olot, in central Catalonia (sweaterhouse.es); and Naguisa makes its shoes in La Rioja (naguisa.com). For even more local products, seek out the hats of Eliurpi (eliurpi.com) and leather bags from Fahrenheit (fahrenheit.com.es).

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 46 Change of wardrobe Clothes and accessories for a new, simple look. By Eugènia Sendra

A COMFORTABLE RANGE of clothes means one without fanfares that doesn’t ignore the latest fashions but still resists the passing of time. There are labels that have always followed these maxims while more and more are turning towards this almost minimalist approach. On these pages you’ll find some ideas that fit this mould from Lacoste, Lee, Vans, TSPTR and other brands with character.

LOOK #3 The design on the MODELS UNIKO PATRICIA, AND FRAN Lacoste blouse

(€120) and the MODELS / Yerse trousers (€89.90) suggest

summer and JAIME DÍAZ the sea. The MARIA DIAS Naguisa sandals BY PIECES (€120) are from

a collection / PHOTOS inspired by the island of Tenerife. EUGÈNIA SENDRA ELTALLERDEJOYERIA.COM - STYLING SETTING

LOOK #4 The Lacoste shorts (€100) have splashes of blue that nicely match the marbled jumper by Sweaterhouse (€79) and the Novesta trainers (€59, on sale at Lolos). Complete the look with the leather rucksack (€259) by Fahrenheit.

47 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Shopping YOU INSPIRE US

SUR IS A breath of fresh Mediterranean air, with one foot in London, where the label was born, and the other in Barcelona, Laura Figueras Daily luxury where its pieces are produced. The Among the Sur pieces person controlling the compass The Catalan designer is the soul of Sur, that would suit any is Laura Figueras; she studied a brand that straddles London and modern woman, at Barcelona’s Escola d’Arts i Barcelona. By Eugènia Sendra highlights include Técniques de la Moda (Fashion those in leather and Art and Technical School), and the wool jumpers like then headed to the UK to work at the Breton. Preen. When she returned home, Æwww.sur-studio.co.uk she launched Bambi by Laura, a brand that established her in New York, Paris and Tokyo. ‘A Japanese man bought the whole collection,’ she says; she seduced the Japanese market in the same way that designs from that country had appealed to her years before. In 2012, in London, she started Sur, which saw her opt for a mix of quality materials – English wool, Italian silk and Spanish leather – and Catalan production, as a way back to that sector. The Visual reference result is a series of sophisticated, Textures, shapes and architectural pieces from basics shadows characterise to more collection-style items the most personal that Figueras creates at her own work of Viviane pace. ‘I prefer to do new things Sassen. Figueras is every month, or collaborations; a fan of her fashion collections, due to the time photography, which is pressure, destroy inspiration,’ full of colour. she says. She also aims for a Æwww.vivianesassen.com nearness when it comes to selling; Sur is promoting itself through pop-up events, and its most loyal customers know that they can just knock on the door of the studio in London. Q

BLOUSE Figueras is an active ambassador for Sur, and this basic, elegant item is hers, Table dressing as are the shorts. Figueras is also attracted to the JEWELLERY simplicity and beauty Her ring is from the of the products of 40s, bought in Paris. Parament, a project She likes finding from designer Carla jewels with a history. Rauert. Æ parament-shop.com SHOES They’re from COS. She’s also a fan of Amélie Pichard. MARIA DIAS MARIA

48 We draw talent, we shelter and we help out

www.bcu.cat|49 Visit Barcelona. A cosmopolitan, dynamic, Mediterranean city, with a widely recognised university community. Get to know Barcelona from the sea, by bus, on public transport, on foot or from high up, while you enjoy taking a close look at its architecture and soaking up the atmosphere of its streets and squares. There are countless ways to discover the city and Turisme de Barcelona will help you; don’t forget to drop by our tourist information offices or visit our website.

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Catalunya Cabina Plaça Espanya Cabina Estació Nord Information and sales Pl. de Catalunya, 17 S Pl. d’Espanya Estació Nord (Quai autobus), Ali-bei, 80 +34 932 853 832 Sant Jaume Cabina Sants [email protected] Ciutat, 2 Pl. Joan Peiró, s/n Cabina Plaça Catalunya Nord Pl. de Catalunya, s/n tickets.vistibarcelona.com Estación de Sants Mirador de Colom Pl. dels Països Catalans, s/n Pl. del Portal de la Pau, s/n Cabina Plaça Catalunya Sud Aeroport de Barcelona Cabina Sagrada Família Pl. de Catalunya, s/n Aeroport del Prat Terminal 1&2 Pl. de la Sagrada Família Oficina Catedral Oficina Rambla Liceu Cabina Colon La Rambla, 51-59 Pl. del Portal de la Pau, s/n Pl. Nova, 5 Oficina Glòries Oficina La Rambla Oficina Pelai Pl. de les Glòries Ptge. Amadeu Bagués Edif. Triangle

visitbarcelona.com What is it? Welcome to Barcelona!

The Barcelona Centre Universitari would like to welcome you and introduce you to the ways in which we can help.

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www.bcu.cat|53 CERCA means RESEARCH! PHGLFDODQGOLIHVFLHQFHVLQVWLWXWHV VFLHQFHDQGHQJLQHHULQJFHQWUHV KXPDQLWLHVDQGVRFLDOVFLHQFHVLQVWLWXWLRQV UHVHDUFKHUV 2YHU:R6SDSHUVSHU\HDU $QDQQXDOEXGJHWRIDSSUR[LPDWHO\½0 (5&JUDQWHHV &(5&$WKH5HVHDUFK&HQWUHVRI&DWDORQLDQHWZRUNFRQVWLWXWHV WKHPDLQ5 'VWUXFWXUHLQ6RXWKHUQ(XURSHLQDWWUDFWLQJWDOHQWHG VFLHQWLVWV7KH&(5&$FHQWUHVKDYHEHHQFDUU\LQJRXWLQWHQVH VFLHQWLÀFDFWLYLW\RYHUWKHODVWIHZ\HDUVDIDFWZKLFKKDVPDGH WKHP RQH RI WKH PDLQ OHDGHUV LQ D QXPEHU RI GLVFLSOLQHV DQG VHFWRUVDW(XURSHDQDQGLQWHUQDWLRQDOOHYHO 7KHLUFRQWULEXWLRQVVXSSRUWWKHFUHDWLRQDQGLQWURGXFWLRQRIWKH VWDQGDUGVDQGWHFKQRORJLHVRIWKHIXWXUHLQRXUVRFLHW\WRGD\DV ZHOODVWKHSURJUHVVRIWKHNQRZOHGJHEDVHGHFRQRP\HVSHFLDOO\ LQDQGDURXQG%DUFHORQD 7KHUHVHDUFKSHUIRUPHGE\WKH&(5&$FHQWUHVLVWKHIRXQGDWLRQ RQZKLFKWKHQHZLQGXVWULHVRI&DWDORQLDZLOOEHEXLOW 7KLVLVRXUFKDOOHQJH www.cerca.cat

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1DÀVHK6DOHKL5HVHDUFK,QVWLWXWHIRU Can you tell us the main difference (DUWK6FLHQFHV*HRORJLFDO6XUYH\RI between Barcelona and the city you ,UDQ83&'HSDUWPHQWRI&LYLODQG come from? (QYLURQPHQWDO(QJLQHHULQJ 0\FLW\7HKUDQLVWKHFDSLWDORI,UDQ How did you end up in Barcelona? DQGKDVDSRSXODWLRQRIDURXQG PLOOLRQSHRSOH,WLVRR]LQJZLWK ,VSHFLDOL]HLQPLQLQJJHRORJ\DQG PRYHPHQWDQGOLYLQJUHTXLUHVDQ JHRWKHFKQLFVVRWKHFRXUVHVRIIHUHG HIIRUWVRLWVXIIHUVIURPWKHXVXDO E\83&ZHUHDSSURSULDWHIRUP\ SUREOHPVDIIHFWLQJPHJDFLWLHV%XW EDFNJURXQG0RUHRYHUP\FRXUVH %DUFHORQDLVPXFKFDOPHUDQGZH LVLQ(QJOLVK$OVR%DUFHORQDLVD FDQHQMR\WKHQDWXUHDQGWKHJUHHQ ORYHO\SODFHWROLYH7KHZHDWKHULV VSDFHVPXFKPRUH ZDUPDQGWKHFLW\LVSDFNHGZLWK PRQXPHQWVWRYLVLW Have you had the opportunity to go What is the focus of the research WRWKHFLQHPDWROHFWXUHVFRQFHUWV etc.? project you are carrying out? 1RW\HW%HFDXVHRIP\OLWWOHVRQ 0\PDMRUGHDOVZLWKWKHRYHUODS “Barcelona is ,GLGQ·WKDYHWKHFKDQFH,QVWHDG EHWZHHQK\GURJHRORJ\DQGWKH ,YLVLWHGGLIIHUHQWSDUNVDQG HQYLURQPHQWLQWKHÀHOGRIVRLODQG SOD\JURXQGV JHRWHFKQLFV,QRWKHUZRUGVZH a lovely place PRGHOWKHJURXQGZDWHUV to live...” How has BCU helped you? What do you expect from your stay at UPC? You have come with your family. How ,IRXQGVRPHXVHIXOLQIRUPDWLRQE\ does it feel being a student and a UHDGLQJWKLVPDJD]LQHLQFOXGLQJ $VDUHVHDUFKHU,H[SHFW83&WR mum in a foreign country? UHFRPPHQGDWLRQVRISODFHVWR VXSSRUWPHDFDGHPLFDOO\VRWKDW YLVLWDUWLFOHVDERXWWKHFXOWXUHRI GXULQJWKHVH\HDUV,PD\EHDEOHWR 7REHDPRWKHUDQGVWXGHQWDWWKH %DUFHORQDDQGODQJXDJHFRXUVHV SXEOLVKVDWLVIDFWRU\SDSHUVDQGJDLQ VDPHWLPHLVTXLWHWKHFKDOOHQJH )RUVWXGHQWVOLNHPHZKRDUHQRW HQRXJKNQRZOHGJHQRWRQO\LQWKHRU\ $OWKRXJKP\VRQKDVDOZD\VVHHQPH IDPLOLDUZLWK6SDQLVKWKLV(QJOLVK EXWLQSUDFWLFH DVDUHVHDUFKHUKHDOVRGHPDQGV P\DWWHQWLRQVRPDQDJLQJP\WLPH PDJD]LQHLVUHPDUNDEO\KHOSIXODQG How long will you stay here? WREHDEOHWRORRNDIWHUKLPZLWKRXW EHQHÀFLDO ,WGHSHQGVRQKRZP\WKHVLVXQIROGV GLVUHJDUGLQJP\UHVHDUFKLQJLVDWULFN\ EXWQRUPDOO\WKHGXUDWLRQRI3K' EDODQFLQJDFW How did you get to know us? FRXUVHVLQ6SDLQLVDERXW\HDUV :KHQ,YLVLWHGWKH5HVD+RXVLQJ Is there anything the city offered you RIÀFHWRUHQWDÁDW,FDPHDFURVV What do you like most from that you didn’t expect? \RX$QG,DOVRSLFNHGXSDFRS\RI Barcelona? %HIRUHFRPLQJKHUH,JDWKHUHGDV the Time Out Student GuideZKLFK, ,UHDOO\OLNHWKHSHRSOH7KH\DUH PXFKLQIRUPDWLRQDVSRVVLEOHDQG IRXQGWREHLQWHUHVWLQJ VRKRVSLWDEOHDQGKHOSIXO7KH DOVRVRPHRIRXUIULHQGVOHQWXVD DUFKLWHFWXUHRIWKHEXLOGLQJVLV KDQG,FDQ·WVD\,·YHFRPHDFURVV IDEXORXVWRR DQ\WKLQJXQH[SHFWHGVRIDU They trust us 7KHXQLYHUVLWLHVRI%DUFHORQDWKHLUDUHDVRILQÁXHQFHDQGWKH 0RELOLW\2IÀ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ÀFH

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STAY WITH US FROM 1 TO 12 MONTHS

BOOK NOW www.resa.es T. 900 649 169 (National calls within Spain) T. +34 93 394 35 00 (International calls) www.resahousing.com T. +34 932 389 072 Shopping Your style By Eugènia Sendra 2 TRULY KITSCH 3 1 Coucou Suzette SECOND SKIN The French designer combines Cold Picnic FOR EVERY DAY pop, kitsch and girl power The lines and shapes Gravel and Gold references in a collection of of the female body Since Cassie McGettigan fun accessories that have an inspire the creations and her partners launched irreverent touch, such as the of this Brooklyn products featuring prints breasts pin and these socks. company (see the rugs of boobs in 2014, they’ve ÆSocks. €13. www.etsy.com decorated with the been constantly reissuing form of the inner them. And they keep on thighs). On their looking for new ways to recycled cotton spread their positive, bed throw, too, feminist message. they suggest a lot Æ Boobs tote. with very little. €70.30. Æ Boob blanket. www.gravelandgold.com €187. 4 www.coldpicnic.com LOCAL La Casita de Wendy One of the hits of this Barcelona brand is the merino wool jumper made together with the Teta&Teta studio (teta means ‘tit’ in English). It’s elegant, discreet and avoids censorship on social media.Æ ZigZag jumper. €75. www.lacasitadewendyshop.com

SALE SAMPLES

Urban colour Save the world Local style Nailed it ÆRobí, 26; misskleckley.com Æwww.uttopy.com Æes.costalamel.com ÆBackstage BCN (València, Opened in spring If you want your Striped tops, 306). backstagebcn.com 2017, this shop was clothes to really say sweaters with As well as a the natural step after something about tattoo-style designs, hairdressers and nine years of blogging you, check out the essentials for an beauty treatments, by the eponymous designs of Barcelona urban tribe that this newish salon is Miss Kleckley, or T-shirt company refuses to grow home to a maestra Marina Giménez. The Uttopy. All their up. This is the MO in nail art. If you’re designer has created collections donate of Costalamel, a looking to try out

MARIA DIAS MARIA a space that’s naïf and proceeds to NGOs Barcelona label some truly creative colourful where you’ll and are produced inspired by the ’90s talons, then book an find her trainers and using environmentally and that produces all appointment at their other on-trend brands. friendly methods. its pieces here. Eixample location.

69 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Things to Do

Edited by Erica Aspas timeout.com/barcelona/things-to-do

Barça & the city With over 100 years of history, FC Barcelona has left its mark on the Catalan capital. Braden Phillips takes a tour of the key landmarks

Camp Nou Regularly topping the list 1of Catalonia’s most-visited museums, the Camp Nou Experience (aka ground zero of any Barça pilgrimage) welcomes hundreds of thousands of people each year. Europe’s largest stadium with capacity for over 99,000, Camp Nou is due for a facelift, curently planned to start in 2018, including covered seating for 105,000 spectators. The museum is state of the art, with giant interactive touchscreens, a vast collection of football memorabilia, and a space dedicated to the team’s diminutive star Leo Messi.

Plaça Sant Jaume Canaletes (see 4) is the place 2for mass public celebrations of FC Barcelona’s triumphs, but Plaça Sant Jaume – the city’s political heart – was once the

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 70 NQECVKQPHQTQHƁEKCN commemorations. Players presented trophies to local political leaders on the City Hall balcony. Very emotional for all, but huge crowds meant these occasions moved to Camp Nou.

Camp de Les Corts This was Barça’s stadium 3from 1922 to 1957. Soon after it opened, on Travessera de Les Corts between C/Vallespir and C/Numància, Barça fans jeered the Spanish national anthem, resulting in a six-month closure. Les Corts held a special place in Catalan hearts, but it was razed after the construction of Camp Nou.

Canaletes Fountain Barça fans converge here, at 4the top of La Rambla, to FC celebrate titles. The tradition Barcelona began in 1930, when Catalan newspaper La Rambla posted opened football results in the window of its QHƁEG YJGTG$CT0WTKCKUVQFC[  an office (CPUECOGVQƁPFQWVsCPF in New celebrate – if Barça had won. York City in They’ve been coming ever since. September Solé Gymnasium 2016 On November 29, 1899, a 5dozen men gathered here (half Catalans, half foreigners), at Montjuïc del Carme, 5, on the corner of Pintor Fortuny, to create FC Barcelona. Today you can visit the spot and admire the plaque that marks the historic event.

71 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Things to Do

TOP SIX Urban

Palau Mercader jewels In this single building, you 6 can visit both the main floor Amazing places just outside the city. of an aristocratic palace from the second half of the 19th century, By Xavier Amat. Photos Irene Fernández including period furniture and over 3,000 objects, and upstairs, a fun museum dedicated to maths. This is the Palau Mercader, a majestic by the town council in and elegant edifice that was once collaboration with the Parc the residence of the Count of Agrari and the Cooperative Bell-lloc. What’s more, the palace Agrícola of Viladecans. is located inside a magnificent Æ Take the R2 or R2s Renfe train park, where young and old can ride lines to Viladecans, or the L86 and on an electric train. L80 buses. Æ You can get to Cornellà with L5 of the metro, as well as Renfe train line R4 and FGC lines R5 DIAS MARIA and S8. Lluerna Discover the good 3taste of Barcelona’s Mercantic neighbours at this Michelin- This is a permanent second- starred restaurant in Santa 5hand market in the town Coloma de Gramenet, a of Sant Cugat where you’ll find city with an ever-increasing furniture, antiques and quirky foodie profile. Chef Victor items. They also host various Quintilià is a master of parallel activities especially at contrasts who has a knack weekends. On Sundays, in the El for knowing what the people Siglo space, there’s live music and want. ÆAvinguda Pallaresa, 104. vermouth, and you can also enjoy Get to Santa Coloma Gramenet on L1 of an extensive range of gastronomic the metro. options courtesy of some of the most acclaimed local restaurants. ÆHead to Sant Cugat with the FGC Metro del Parc Arqueològic de Vallès lines S1 and S2. Gavà 2 In the nearby area of Baix Llobregat is Europe’s Mercat del Pagès oldest series of mines, which If you want to try authentic were first excavated about 4local fruit and vegetables, 6,000 years ago by people like delicious El Prat artichokes looking for variscite, a green- grown by farmers in the Parc Agrari blue phosphate mineral used of the Baix Llobregat, you can buy 1 to make jewellery. As well as them direct from the suppliers at visiting part of the original the Mercat del Pagès (Farmer’s Fàbrica d’Anís del Mono mines, you can also go to the Market) held every Wednesday With its monkey (mono) logo, this anise liqueur is a classic museum that explains what morning in Viladecans. You’ll find Catalan drink. Head to the factory in nearby Badalona for a guided life was like in the area in times a good range and stock of produce tour and find out all about the origin of its primate-based image past. ÆTravel to Gavà on the Renfe lines at the market which takes place and name (hint: Darwin’s theories are involved), see posters and R2 and R2S, or buses L80 and L81. around Can Xic and is organised ad campaigns used by the historic company, discover how the drink is made and admire the installations’ modernista design. Æ Go to Badalona on the R1 Renfe train line, buses B25 and B26, line T5 of the Trambesòs and metro L2 and L10.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 72 73 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Things to Do

AN EXHIBITION AFTER THE END... This one’s for you, Trump

Post-Paris Creative solutions The 2015 Paris In the show, artists, Climate Agreement film-makers, writers, figures largely in architects, designers materials about and scientists this show, but its consider various timeliness is striking scenarios, and reflect in light of President on the decisions we all Trump’s withdrawal have to share in. of the USA. Curated with care Starting over Curator José Luis de Whether or not the Vicente specialises remaining signatories in analysing cultural meet their (voluntary) spaces between objectives, we face technology, social having to rethink innovation and art. He numerous aspects of curates Sónar+D and is our daily lives, like the on the curatorial team food chain, city design of FutureEverything and birth rates. Festival (Manchester). ‘PORT OF ANTWERP’ CORTESIA DE BENJAMIN GRANT / SATELLITE IMAGERY © DIGITALGLOBE, INC DIGITALGLOBE, © IMAGERY SATELLITE / GRANT BENJAMIN DE CORTESIA ANTWERP’ OF ‘PORT The end is nigh INC DIGITALGLOBE, This is a two-part exhibition, exploring both the state of our planet in 2017, and what it could look like toward the end of this century; a place many experts predict will be very different from how it is now. ™After the end of the world. CCCB; Oct 24-Apr 29, 2018.

www.cccb.org © IMAGERY SATELLITE / GRANT B. ARIZONA’, LAKES, ‘SUN

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 74 TOP THREE

Second-hand markets: where to go for alternative retail therapy MARIA DIAS MARIA

Ç Mercat de Sant Antoni Get up early one Sunday and check out this second-hand book market. Currently housed in a temporary canopy, the market is full of energy, both at the stalls and outside where collectors exchange stickers, coins and stamps. ÆUrgell, 1. Sun 9am-2.30pm. www.mercatdesantantoni.com

Ç Encants Nous The word encants comes from the Latin in quantum, meaning ‘auction’. Dating from the 14th century, this is one of Europe’s oldest second-hand markets. Browse the stalls and you’ll find an extensive range of stuff. ÆAv. Meridiana, 69. Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat. www.encantsbcn.com

Ç El Flea Once a month vendors set up pitch outside the Maritime Museum where they sell and exchange all manner of goods. It’s organised by Flea Market BCN, which aims to encourage new ways to use old objects. ÆPlaça de Blanquerna. Second Sun each month. 10am-8pm. www.fleamarketbcn.com

75 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Things to Do TO DO More things you can do around the city

is the culmination remains, discovered walking distance of MODERNISME of the architect’s by accident in the the city centre. The experimental eff orts ’20s. most southwesterly to re-create natural ÆPlaça del Rei. M: Jaume I part, at the foot of Sagrada Família forms with bricks (L4). museuhistoriabcn.cat the W Hotel, has a Barcelona’s most and mortar (not to view of the entire visited site is due to mention ceramics cat.cat Barcelona coastline, be fi nished by 2026. and even smashed- DESIGN from the three Wander through the up cava bottles). chimneys to the huge interior of the church ÆProvença 261-265. M: solar panel in the with its tree-like Diagonal (L3,L5). lapedrera.com Museu del Parc de la Fòrum grounds, plus columns, and check Disseny de BCN the Olympic Port and out the museum, This focus for design Ciutadella Barceloneta Beach in which explains HISTORY in Barcelona opened between. Antoni Gaudí’s its doors in December When the weather’s fine, this ÆM: Barceloneta (L4). creative process. 2014. It houses a surprisingly extensive park ÆMallorca, 401. Museu d’Història huge range of design Platja de la Mar M: Sagrada Família (L2,L5). de Barcelona objects including (the largest in the city centre, Bella sagradafamilia.org The three stories of ceramics, textiles, it houses the zoo, a large The coastal renewal the Barcelona History graphical works and children’s play area and a process that began La Pedrera Museum document clothing, as well as with the 1992 The last secular the city’s Roman an extensive archive boating lake) is a great place for Olympic Games building designed roots. Stretching with around 22,000 a picnic, bike ride or taking an breathed new life by Gaudí, the 1912 from Plaça del Rei documents. ice cream break. into this beach, Casa Milà (popularly to the Cathedral are ÆPlaça de Glòries, 37. which combines Æ known as La Pedrera, some 4,000m2 of M: Glòries (L1). Passeig de Picasso, 21. M: Ciutadella (L4) two very different ‘the stone quarry’) subterranean Roman areas: a nudist beach www.museudisseny.cat at one end and a FASHION sea, the Barcelona children’s playground OUTDOOR Urban Forest at the other. You’ll offers a mélange of also find groups 080 Barcelona activities, sports and playing football and Fashion Tibidabo theme adventures for you to volleyball. With winter and park test your adrenaline ÆM: Selva de la Mar (L4). summer editions This hilltop park, levels, all within the that each run for dating from 1889, city limits. Zip lines, five days, 080 gives has invested millions rope swings, bungee RUNNING the Barcelona on modernisation, jumping, log rolls and fashion scene a including an 80kph much more besides. biannual shot in rollercoaster, but ÆPlaça del Fòrum, s/n. Marató de the arm with the it still retains a M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). Barcelona support of the nostalgic charm with www.barcelonaboscurba.com The Barcelona Generalitat. It its house of horrors, marathon is a popular mainly showcases bumper cars and cat entry on the world local designers, Avió, the world’s first BEACHES marathon calendar. from skilled ateliers flight simulator. Launched in 1977, such as Natalie Æ www.tibidabo.cat it follows a flat and Capell and Miriam Platja de Sant scenic route through Ponsa to big-hitters Barcelona Bosc Sebastià the city. like Desigual, Custo Urbà It’s more than a ÆLength: 42 km (26.17 miles). and Mango. An adventure kilometre of sand When: March 11, 2018 Æ080barcelonafashion.com playground by the and sea within www.zurichmaratobarcelona.es

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 76 Promotional feature

A unique international experience If you’re considering what path to take after your degree, the UPF Barcelona School of Management can help

YOU’RE DOUBTLESS HAVING a mean these programmes are fantastic time in Barcelona at the highly acclaimed by companies moment, but perhaps you’re also seeking young talent with different giving thought to what comes next, visions and perspectives. What’s what to do once your degree is more, Barcelona is the ideal finished. If so, take a look at the multidimensional base, as a UPF Barcelona School of capital of innovation, technology, Management. UPF is one of the best art, business and digital universities in the world according transformation. All of which may to international rankings and one explain why demand for Masters of of the few centres in Barcelona that Science in the city keeps on growing offers Masters about world business among young locals as much as and management, it also offers the those from abroad. chance to sample those management courses at a two-week Summer school summer school to help you work Each July, the UPF Barcelona School out if that’s the direction your of Management offers a summer professional future should take. school aimed at young graduate and ungraduate More than a learning students from around experience Most of the the world who want to Young, modern and dynamic, do a training period the UPF Barcelona School of students in Barcelona, and Management – the Masters and come from find out about the Postgrad school of the Universidad methodology and Pompeu Fabra – teaches Masters abroad, different subjects of Science that stand out for their taught at the school. methodology, which is focused on creating For two weeks, these analysis, rigour and the processing a global young international of data applied to the world of students follow an business and management. These environment intensive course full-time programmes, which are that includes taught solely in English, aim to multidisciplinary enable professionals to manage subjects comprising from an analytic perspective, entrepreneurship, with a strategic orientation, wide- technology and creativity, ranging view and the capacity innovation, sales and negotiation to solve problems. The taught techniques, project management specialities are Management, and even an introduction to International Business, IT Strategic analysis and Big Data. After the Management, Business Analytics, first full-on week, the second Marketing, Enterpreneurship, week sees students gain a deeper and Finances and Banking. But understanding of one of three beyond the theory, the Masters areas of specialisation: Sports of Science offer learning based management, Marketing and on real challenges, co-creation, communication or Finance. It’s creativity, grounded management a great opportunity to live, get to and innovation. Indeed, their know and try a unique learning methodology and international experience, and decide if your future environment (86 percent of lies with a Master of Science at UPF participants are foreign and Barcelona School of Management. come from all parts of the world) Æbarcelonaschoolofmanagement.upf.edu

77 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 ÆPlaça dels Àngels, 1 www.macba.cat/en/ M: Sant Antoni (L2), Universitat (L1, L2). With Fundació Joan Miró kids The bold colours and simple shapes used by Edited by Erica Aspas Catalan artist Joan timeout.com/barcelona/barcelona-for-kids Miró are loved by children; Familimiró is a programme of activities for all the family. the Planetarium ÆParc de Montjuïc DON’T MISS (for those aged five www.fmirobcn.org/en to eight), Clik (ages M: Espanya (L1,L3; FGC) three to six) and Flash CosmoCaixa (seven to nine), which MNAC The standout exhibit introduce kids to With the MNAC’s of CosmoCaixa, one science through fun various activities of Europe’s biggest and games. your little ones could science museums, is ÆIsaac Newton, 26 be a fairy for a day, the Flooded Forest, a http://obrasocial.lacaixa.es learn the sculptor’s living reproduction of FGC: Tibidabo trade or be a detective a corner of Amazonia and solve a robbery. with glass walls Barcelona Zoo Reservation required. that allow you to This decently sized ÆParc de Montjuïc see underwater. zoo has a wide range www.museunacional.cat/en The children’s of animals – some M: Espanya (L1,L3; FGC) installations include 2,000 creatures, made up of 315 species. Aquarium are fish of mind- Other features are a Barcelona’s Aquarium boggling shapes and Dt. 17.LET’S 19 h. Gratis. PLAY farmyard zoo, pony is home to more colours, an 80m-long rides, picnic areas than 11,000 animals underwater tunnel and two excellent representing 450 and Planet Aqua, a MACBA playgrounds. If all the species – what you split-level circular Every weekend, walking is too much, would expect from space with Humboldt the MACBA offers there’s a zoo ‘train’. the world’s largest penguins. activities for families, ÆParc de la Ciutadella Mediterranean- ÆMoll d’Espanya combining tours of the www.zoobarcelona.cat/en/ themed marine www.aquariumbcn.com exhibition galleries

MARIA DIAS MARIA M: Arc de Triomf (L1) attraction. There M: Drassanes (L3) with workshops.

TOP THREE

Child-friendly eateries Bar del Convent ÆComerç, 26. T. 93 256 50 17 Family Room Cafè Located in a 14th-century Gothic ÆJoan Gamper, 13. building, there’s a terrace with T. 93 534 18 30 views of the cloister where the Feel at home in this Les Corts kids can safely play. There’s also a spot, where they serve a space for them inside the bar. variety of delicious drinks and www.bardelconvent.com dishes. Children can decorate the blackboard or play in the wooden house. www.familyroomcafe.com Chocolatería La Nena ÆRamon y Cajal, 36. T. 93 285 14 76 With whitewashed stone walls, piles of books and games, and delicious treats like waffles, crêpes, hot chocolate, fresh juices and ice cream, this is a great place for all ages. www.chocolaterialanena.com

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 78 79 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Film

Edited by Josep Lambies timeout.com/barcelona/cinema MARIA DIAS MARIA Best film festivals If you’re passionate about cinema, here are five yearly film events in Barcelona you mustn’t pass up. By Josep Lambies

YOU’RE UNLIKELY TO find starlets teetering D’A Festival Internacional Mostra de Cine de Dones along a red carpet in Barcelona surrounded by While many of the films screened in Cannes This festival was born 26 years ago, back when it droves of paparazzi. If you’re looking for that, won’t appear in cinemas, you can see a range wasn’t usual to see a woman shooting a film, to you’re better off heading north, to the San of them during this ten-day spring festival reclaim the forgotten work of the film industry’s Sebastián film festival, or maybe south, to the that offers a great panorama of contemporary female pioneers. With a main event in June one in Málaga. But if you want good, quality auteur cinema. It started in 2011, and other activities running films, you needn’t leave town. Feast your eyes but despite being the newest of throughout the year, it aims to on our list of the best local film fests, five our top five, it’s already one of the The 2017 show the best films made by annual events you won’t want to miss. city’s best film fests. women from around the world. Æwww.cinemadautor.cat Sitges Æwww.mostrafilmsdones.cat Sitges Film Festival Int’l Film It’s not Sundance or Venice, but locals are In-Edit L’Alter nativa justifiably proud of hosting one of the freakiest Music fans and film buffs should Festival This event is paradise for real film festivals around, held every autumn in the take a look at In-Edit, a festival runs from cinephiles, anyone who avoids beach town of Sitges, 30 minutes away from dedicated to only one genre: the mainstream and seeks more Barcelona. This is the place where the best the music documentary. But October 5 challenging movie experiences. (and, let’s face it, the worst) horror and fantasy lest you confuse specificity In November (for 2017, 13-19) at movies are premiered, and where you can with superficiality, know that to 15 the CCCB, enjoy independent and spend the whole night in a non-stop marathon it’s premiered films here like experimental films of B-movies or take part in the Zombie Walk, a Searching for Sugar Man. The that just wouldn’t fit ghoulish parade of the living dead. 2017 edition opens on October 26. anywhere else. Æwww.sitgesfilmfestival.com Æwww.in-edit.org Æalternativa.cccb.org

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 80 Film

WHERE TO WATCH CINEMA IN BARCELONA

Verdi bar-restaurant The five-screen in Sants. Is there Verdi and Verdi Park anything more noble (see below) have than trying to help transformed this small independent corner of Gràcia with a productions find an diverse programme of audience? independent, mainly Æ Béjar, 553. M: Tarragona European and Asian, (L3). www.zumzeig-cine.eu cinema, all shown in its original language Filmoteca de (VO). At peak times, Catalunya arrive early and The government- make sure you don’t funded Filmoteca confuse the queue to is a little dry for enter with the one to some tastes; what buy tickets. you’ll find are Æ Verdi, 32. M: Fontana (L3). comprehensive www.cines.verdi.com seasons of cinema’s more recondite Verdi Park auteurs alongside The little brother of better-known the Verdi, this four- classics. Books of ten screen annex on the tickets halves the next street has smaller price per film to €2, screens but the and they offer a range same solid art-house of season tickets. programming. buy your ticket (rates Æ Balmes, 422. FGC: Putxet. Æ Pl. Salvador Seguí, 1. M: Æ Torrijos, 49. M: Fontana vary according to www.grupbalana.com Liceu (L3). www.filmoteca.cat (L3). www.cines.verdi.com the day), it gives you access to the cinema Phenomena The Last Days for that whole day, Located just metres so you can see up to from the Sant Pau Filmed in Barcelona, this seven films for the Art Nouveau Site, 2013 sci-fi thriller from price of one. until December brothers Àlex and David Pastor Æ Pi, 5. M: Catalunya (L1, L3; 2014, Phenomena shows the city in chaos, as an FGC). www.cinemamalda.com was an itinerant undertaking, with

epidemic causes humans to Balmes screenings in different DIAS MARIA fear going outdoors. Multicines venues around town. The most recent However, initiatives Cinemes Méliès Renoir addition to the such as Jaws-Alien This small, two-screen Floridablanca original-language double sessions in VO venue is the nearest This place screens which closed for it. But what it lacks landscape, this is a were so successful, Barcelona has to an up to ten US, British several years before in charm, it makes 12-screen cinema with organisers decided art-house cinema, and Spanish films re-opening with a up for in choice, with big, comfortable seats to move into a with an idiosyncratic (and occasionally state-of-the-art sound 15 screens offering and stadium seating permanent home. roster of accessible some from other system, are shown in blockbusters as well as that guarantees a Æ Sant Antoni Maria Claret, classics alongside countries) in VO their original versions mainstream foreign good view. Go on 168. M: Sant Pau/Dos de more recent, non- each day. Though and subtitled in and Spanish releases. Wednesdays for the Maig (L5). www.phenomena- commercial films. they tend toward the Catalan. Æ Salvador Espriu, 61. M: cheapest tickets. experience.com Æ Villarroel, 102. M: Urgell indie genre, there’s Æ Diagonal, 508. Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). (L1). www.meliescinemes.com increasingly space for M: Diagonal (L3, L5). www. www.yelmocines.es Zumzeig blockbusters too. bolichecinemes.cat Esteban Bernatas Æ Floridablanca, 135. Maldà hears ‘You’re crazy’ M: Urgell (L1), Universitat (L1, Icària Yelmo Centrally located in a lot. That’s what MORE AT L2). www.cinesrenoir.com This large VO the Gothic Quarter, people say when multiplex has all the this small cinema has he talks about his TIMEOUT.COM/ Boliche atmosphere of the come up with a novel project: Cine-Zumzeig BARCELONA The films in this near-empty shopping way of getting bums Bistro, a cinema four-screen cinema, centre that surrounds on seats – when you and above-average

81 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Theatre DIAS MARIA & Dance

Edited by Andreu Gomila timeout.com/barcelona/teatre

Not only local heroes

There’s no better way to immerse yourself in local culture than to take in a play in Catalan. By Andreu Gomila

THEY’RE IN THEIR 40s and have projects in theatre capitals ‘We talk like New York, Milan and Buenos Aires. They’ve absorbed about what lessons from Neil LaBute, Simon happens on Stephens and David Harrower. Josep Maria Miró They even tasted success in the street... their 20s with small plays staged Today our in off-Barcelona venues. Now, happens on the street, what’s in best foreign play. Josep Maria with directors no longer in the audience is the papers. Today our audience is Miró is a hero in Buenos Aires and spotlight, playwrights like Pau global.’ Clua’s latest play will open Mexico City, thanks to Archimedes’ Miró, Josep Maria Miró and Jordi global’ in Athens and Buenos Aires. principle. In 2016 Casanovas Casanovas are the ones to watch. All these playwrights come from premiered Gazoline in NYC. Guillem Clua, whose plays Sala Beckett, a drama factory that In 2012, the Catalan National Skin in Flames and The Taste of 15 years ago devoted a full season Theatre gave a few playwrights the Ashes premiered in the US, says, to the theme of Barcelona and, two chance to stage new work in one ‘We’re living our finest moment years later, to Catalan drama. In of the biggest theatres in town. It as playwrights with respect to the Barcelona season, new authors showed local playwrights can draw international opportunities, and erupted onto the scene. Pau Miró an audience. This season includes we’ve got to take advantage of premiered Plou a Barcelona (It’s plays from Lluïsa Cunille and J.M. that. This is happening because Raining in Barcelona), which won Miró. In Barcelona, not only does we don’t sit around contemplating the Critics Circle best new play Hamlet speak Catalan, our navels or talking about award and was staged in Italy; his but the most popular marital problems or issues out Els jugadors (The Players) won plays are written in of our reach. We talk about what an Ubú (the Italian Oliviers) for Catalan too. Q

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 82 Theatre & Dance

THE CITY’S TOP THEATRE AND DANCE VENUES AND ARTS FESTIVALS

Teatre Lliure: Mercat de les Montjuïc Flors Back in 2001, the UK theatre director Teatre Lliure in Peter Brook is credited Gràcia (which is still with transforming this open) was growing one-time exhibition so fast that this new pavilion into a fully venue was opened formed venue for on Montjuïc. It has the performing arts two spaces, the in 1985, when he bigger of which holds was looking for a 800 people and the place to stage his smaller just 200, ideal legendary six-hour for more intimate production of The performances. Mahabharata. The Æ Pg. Santa Madrona, 40-46. Mercat now focuses M: Poble Sec (L3). firmly on national www.teatrelliure.com and international contemporary Teatre Nacional dance, with a strong de Catalunya programme that This Generalitat- includes unusual funded theatre that formats, live music opened in the late and new technologies. ’80s boasts a vast Æ Lleida, 59. M: Poble Sec airy lobby and three (L3). www.mercatflors.cat excellent performing spaces. Current artistic director Xavier Albertí opts for a good mix of classical Teatre Tívoli and contemporary This is another of pieces, including the city’s grand from new writers. centenarians. The Æ Plaça de les Ar ts, 1. HOT TICKET! original space was M: Glòries (L1). www.tnc.cat inaugurated in 1849, and since 1918 Coming up this year it’s been standing Club Capitol Barcelona’s biggest arts festival proudly in its current What better way is the Grec, held every July and residence, boasting a to learn the local featuring a staggering selection of ‘neo-rococo’ style and languages and theatre, dance, music and family eclectic programme. discover the city’s shows (lameva.barcelona.cat/ Æ Casp, 8. M: Catalunya (L1, spirit than with shows grec). Smaller but just as enticing L3; FGC). www.grupbalana.com by comedians like is th hosted at Mercat de les Carlos Latre, Toni Flors in late November, with fresh L’Antic Teatre Moog and David shows that go against the flow This space has the Guapo. Take your Teatre Romea (mercatflors.cat). Out of town ramshackle look of an class at the Capitol, This was a private in Girona and Salt, Temporada organisation working the city’s home for theatre when it Alta is a perfor ming ar ts festival on counter-cultural local comedy. opened in 1863. Over with work from some of Europe’s events. Its mission Æ La Rambla, 138. 100 years later, it was most renowned creatives. Among is to support and M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). taken over by the the pieces scheduled for the build the capacity www.grupbalana.com Catalan government Teatre Nacional this year, for experimentation, and then in 1999, standouts include Sarah production, Grup Focus took Kane’s Blasted and a exhibition and MORE AT up the reins; it’s modern take on promotion of now dedicated to Frankenstein. professional artists. TIMEOUT.COM/ contemporary works. Æ Verdaguer i Callís, 12. BARCELONA Æ Hospital, 51. M: Liceu (L3). M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). www.teatreromea.com www.anticteatre.com

83 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Music & Nightlife

Edited by Marta Salicrú www.timeout.com/barcelona/music-nightlife

FACE OFF Summer festivals We compare and contrast two of Barcelona’s most popular music festivals. By Marta Salicrú

PRIMAVERA SOUND

What? forecast to see if the gods of rock Pretty much a guaranteed demand a light raincoat. inclusion on lists of the planet’s best festivals, PS was born in 2001 Where? as a single day of concerts and DJ At the end of Av. Diagonal, sessions focusing on alternative you’ll find the Parc del Fòrum, a pop-rock and electronica. Today mammoth open-air space ideal it’s a huge, eclectic event, where for huge music festivals. Since hip hop and world music also have 2005 the Fòrum has played host their place. PS officially lasts three to PS, and it now has more than days, but actually takes over many ten stages spread out over almost city venues for about a week. 200,000m2. The space is a concrete monster, but there are grassy and When? quiet spots, and the musicians there are almost exactly the same where classic greats have played PS takes place at the end of May shine as they perform with the amount of women as men. To including Thurston Moore, Patti or start of June, when the local Mediterranean as a backdrop. give you an idea of who goes, the Smith and Brian Wilson; acts weather’s usually just right for an PS 2014 ad campaign was set in a who are now big names passed outdoor festival, though Mother Who? fictional rehab centre for hipsters through at the start of their career, Nature can play tricks on festival- Among the 185,000 music fans trying to kick the festival habit. like Arcade Fire and Vampire goers. If you’re from less sunny who danced and sang their way Weekend; and there have been climes, definitely protect your through Primavera Sound in 2016 Why? performances by such hugely skin, but you’ll also want a jacket were 124 different nationalities. Because it’s a feast for music disparate bands as Tame Impala, for the cooler nights, and check the The average age is 25 to 35, and lovers with omnivorous tastes Radiohead and Sleaford Mods.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 84 ‘It’s the mother of all parties that also has an intellectual side’

SÓNAR

What? Who? The Festival of Advanced Music Sónar continued its great and Multimedia Art got underway form in 2016, its 23rd edition, in 1994 and is still true to its roots: with 115,500 punters from a mix of explosive experimental 101 countries. These are huge acts to feed grey matter, and numbers when you consider danceable electronic pop and Sónar also organises events hedonistic club music for working each year in other cities around up a sweat and getting the the world – hosts including endorphins going. Reykjavik, Istanbul and Hong Kong. This festival also draws When? audience members between 25 Sónar is on for three days in and 35, men and women in fairly mid-June, around the summer equal numbers, and you’ll find solstice, so Barcelona is fiery hot hipsters, as well as technology in more ways than one. The high geeks and ravers. temperatures also dictate festival fashion: bikini tops, Bermuda Why? shorts, wide-rimmed hats, Because it’s a funfair for big, sandals and shades are the curious kids that stimulates ‘The acts dress code. the synapses and also provides heaps of fun – the mother of all shine Where? parties with an intellectual side The festival is divided into Sónar to help you feel redeemed if you

as they DIAS MARIA PHOTOS: by Day and Sónar by Night, each end up suffering any residual perform celebrated in different spaces. effects. Heroes of pop culture with the For a long time, it was on at the have performed at Sónar, like MACBA, but a bigger venue Kraftwerk, Roxy Music, Chic with Med sea as was called for, and now two big Nile Rodgers, Grace Jones, Jean convention centres play host: Michel Jarre and Devo, and you backdrop’ by day it’s the Fira Montjuïc, and can also delight in events such by night the Fira Gran Via. The as classical pianist Francesco evening venue is actually outside Tristano converting his recital into BCN (in L’Hospitalet), but it’s just a house session, a Björk DJ session ten minutes by bus from Plaça or discovering up-and-comers at Espanya. the Red Bull Music Academy.

85 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Music & Nightlife GET YOUR POP FESTIVALS CHANSON FESTIVAL Cruïlla Barnasants Cruïlla began quietly TICKETS NOW A singer-songwriter in 2008 before festival now in its launching into 23rd year and which something special offers some 100 big two years later. It now and small concerts attracts thousands around Barcelona. of music fans lured Æ Januar y-April 2018. Various by a weekend of an Listings venues. www.barnasants.com eclectic and genre- crossing line-up of FOLK FESTIVAL great bands in an Tradicionàrius outdoor setting. This is the most ÆJuly 2018. Parc del Fòrum. important traditional M: El Maresme/Fòrum (L4). music festival in www.cruillabarcelona.com Catalonia, with about 30 concerts in BAM Gràcia’s Centre Artesà BAM is an annual Tradicionàrius. indie music festival Æ Januar y-June 2018. Plaça that’s part of the Anna Frank, s/n. M: Fontana citywide La Mercè (L3). www.tradicionarius.cat celebration and includes many free, CLASSICAL MUSIC open-air concerts L’Auditori around Barcelona. Home to the city ÆSeptember 2017. Various OBC orchestra, you venues. barcelona.cat/bam can also hear world, contemporary Guitar BCN and experimental This will be the music plus works for 28th edition of Festival Internacional de children. Barcelona’s extensive Æ Lepant, 150. M: Marina guitar festival, Jazz de Barcelona (L1). www.auditori.cat which includes classical guitar and One of Europe’s most well-respected jazz Palau de la established virtuoso festivals has grown to embrace everything Música Catalana performers, as well as This stunning concert alternative bands and from bebop to gospel, around a core of hall is as captivating musicians. mainstream performers. In the autumn as the music it ÆFebruary–July 2018. of 2017, its 49th edition will kick off with hosts, with a varied Various venues. confirmed acts including opener Diana Krall programme that this www.theproject.es year includes Anne- and The Waterboys. Sophie Mutter and Sir Festival del Æ www.jazz.barcelona John Eliot Gardiner. Mil·lenni Æ Palau de la Música, 4-6. M: The Millennium Urquinaona (L1, L4). Festival is one of www.palaumusica.cat Spain’s most diverse, with sounds ranging OPERA from folk-rock to Creativity and Lapsus DNIT FLAMENCO FESTIVAL Gran Teatre Liceu eclectic flamenco Electronic Music, This event at the Experimental Ciutat Flamenco Barcelona’s opera This year sees it stage which began in CCCB features electronica and A benchmark festival house has a season of its 19th edition. Montreal in 2000, has around eight non- young creatives of contemporary iconic works lined up ÆNovember 2017-May been making waves stop hours of avant- take centre stage at flamenco at Mercat this year, such as Un 2018. Various venues in Barcelona for the garde electronic CaixaForum in this de les Flors that Ballo in Maschera by www.festival-millenni.com past eight years. music featuring season that hosts celebrates the Giuseppe Verdi and There’s a Digi_Section both national and monthly concerts and art form while Richard Wagner’s ELECTRONIC MUSIC daytime programme international artists. talks. challenging its Tristan und Isolde, FESTIVALS and electronic music ÆApril 2018. ÆLast Friday of month, conventions. alongside one-off Mutek every night. Montalegre, 5. Oct-May. Av. Francesc Ferrer i ÆMay 2018. Lleida, 59. performances. The International ÆMarch 2018. Various M: Universitat (L1, L2). Guàrdia, 6-8. M: Espanya (L1, M: Poble Sec (L3) Æ La Rambla, 51-59. Festival for Digital venues. www.mutek.org www.cccb.org L3; FGC). obrasocial.lacaixa.es www.mercatflors.cat www.liceubarcelona.cat

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 86 Music & Nightlife

TOP THREE Catalan musicians you need to know MARIA DIAS MARIA DIAS MARIA FERNÁNDEZ IRENE MIQUI PUIG MARIA ARNAL & MARCEL BAGÉS BAD GYAL With both awards and experience, Miqui Puig This pair are the latest ‘next big thing’ The undisputed queen of urban music in has been making the city dance for three in Barcelona, a singer and guitarist who Catalonia is Bad Gyal, a woman who’s not yet decades, both behind a microphone and his explore oral traditions and popular culture 20 but has already achieved millions of plays record decks, and is one of the most eclectic with exquisite delicacy. In spring 2017 they of her clips on YouTube. Alba (her given name) DJs you’ll find here. The elegance of pop and released their first disc, 45 cerebros y 1 has become a star without having recorded spirit of soul combine in this Barcelona icon corazón, the culmination of a period when a single disc, but then she doesn’t need to; who put out a new album earlier this year, everybody’s been talking about them. Their she keeps editing songs and mixtapes while Escuela de capataces. future is undoubtedly bright. stealing the city’s stages.

87 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Clubs

Edited by Ricard Martín timeout.com/barcelona/music-nightlife Keep on dancing These Barcelona parties, sessions and clubs will have you dancing to great music all night long. By Pau Roca

ALMOST ANY NIGHT of the week in Barcelona you’ll find a club LIBIDO AT NITSA CLUB night happening somewhere. 2It’s seven years since Gon and Whether you want a Monday Pau started their adventures on the evening pick-me-up, a full-on edges of electronic music at Nitsa@ all-night session or feel like Apolo (Nou de la Rambla, 113), and hearing the newest sounds, they’re still going hard. With an you’re almost bound to find it upbeat soundtrack of ’90s house, in the Catalan capital. If you’re served with plentiful helpings of planning a night out but aren’t disco, boogie and soul, Libido has sure where to start, here’s a become an institution. The line- selection of what we reckon are up mainly consists of local DJs, the ten hottest club nights and although they also invite monthly sessions the city currently has international guests to mix things Switch Bar to offer. up a bit. www.facebook.com/libidobarcelona

TRILL AT RAZZMATAZZ 1They call it ‘Internet club SWITCH BAR 33/45 music’. Spain’s biggest Future 3If you end up at Switch 4The ideal place for Beats club night takes over (Francisco Giner, 24), you might a quick drink before the Barcelona’s five-room Razzmatazz well find Sunny Graves, Fede night really gets going – club (Almogàvers, 122) every Erdán, Abu Sou or Nehuen at the but don’t be surprised Saturday evening, and features decks. In this half-bar, half-club if you get stuck (in the the up-and-coming stars of the hybrid hangout, which is managed best sense of the word) hardcore continuum – artists by the impeccable Deckard, they with a soundtrack who are writing the future of serve generous cocktails that you that runs from Burial dubstep, garage and jungle, such as can enjoy in two connected spaces to Bonobo via Björk AarabMuzik, Baauer, Nguzunguzu (one more laid-back, the other with and James Brown. At and local Alizzz. Party like it’s a DJ booth and bar) with music 33/45 (Joaquín Costa, 2017! selected by the best DJs in town. 4) you’re in a haven www.facebook.com/trillrazzmatazz www.facebook.com/SwitchBar of great taste that

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 88 JORDI PIZARRO JORDI

Sala Apolo

Mondays at Apolo for the title of the wildest party in town, Wednesday’s El Dirty at Razzmatazz has a tagline that succinctly says it all: ‘All the hits you can imagine mixed all together (now!)’. With the attitude and energy of a gay-friendly party night, it’s ideal for all you clubbers who just can’t wait until the weekend. www.facebook.com/eldirtyderazzmatazz

Razzmatazz CHURROS CON 9CHOCOLATE A playlist that’s a potpourri of kitsch (from commercial radio hits to mariachi hymns) plus an has swiftly become a Barcelona pop, indie, garage, electronica and anarchic, up-for-it atmosphere. nightlife essential. rock and whatever else they think Entrance is free, everyone is www.facebook.com/33.45bar it will take to get the room moving. welcome and it takes place one Its slogan is ‘we come, we dance, Party planner Sunday afternoon a month at we rock’, while Madmax describes Apolo. If you want to discover CLUB MARABÚ AT SALA NM as ‘a party for normal people A Friday night game the secret of happiness, mark 5UPLOAD who like rock’. plan starts at Collage Churros on your calendar. We Club Marabú (Sala Upload in www.nastygarage.com (Consellers, 4), with its guarantee you won’t regret it. Poble Espanyol, Av. Francesc www.facebook.com/Churros-con- Ferrer i Guardia, 13) is the top cocktails and free Chocolate-353099171375605/ electronic club night Barcelona WEDNESDAYS AT MOOG tapas. Then a stand-up needed. With a ’90s aesthetic, 7The city’s pocket-sized supper at Bar del Pla; try promoters Canada and Drakis Berghain keeps delivering the oxtail with foie gras VENTÚ have devised a party whose USPs big names in international 10VenTú has redefined are musical eclecticism and an techno, with the most authentic (Montcada, 2) . Mosey the concept of the afternoon out-of-control dance floor. atmosphere in Barcelona. This, its over to Magic Club (Pg. de vermouth for a new generation. www.clubmarabu.com only remaining real techno club, Picasso, 40) to dance till That means fewer grandpas has an uncompromising policy sipping aperitifs and nibbling that mixes local regulars – Gus 6am. Finally, at Xurreria olives, and more live music, party NASTY MONDAYS Van Sound, Olmos, Uroz – with San Roman (Consell de atmosphere and uninhibited 6Running for some ten years, label nights and special guests Cent, 211) stave off a dancing, all with a glass of this week-opener event claims to (Arc del Teatre, 3). ice-cold vermut in hand. With be Europe’s biggest rock ‘n’ roll www.masimas.com/es/moog hangover with a cone of ever-changing venues, this is a party. Regular hosts Mad Max and xurros doughnuts. perfect early afternoon shindig for Soren do all they can to break up Sundays, proving once more that Monday monotony by offering a EL DIRTY AT RAZZMATAZZ they’re the new Fridays. mixbag of sounds including rock, 8Competing with Nasty www.ventubcn.es 89 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Music & Nightlife

BEST OF THE REST

More great nightlife in the city

you need for a great using live music Spandau Ballet, Tina CLUBS night out. DJs playing and burlesque; and Turner, Ultravox and house, hip hop, R&B Apotheke, a creative Simple Minds, among and international cocktail bar. others – stands this Sidecar hits, a terrace ideal ÆPl. Reial, 13-15. hall with amazing This below-ground for the first cocktail of M: Liceu (L3) acoustics for concerts temple of indie rock the night, and a range www.ocana.cat and performing arts, is 25 years old and of delicious fusion and that’s managed still fit as a fiddle, cuisine. Opium Barcelona by promoter The with a different ÆPg. Marítim de la Opium, a restaurant Project. session every day Barceloneta, 36. with a terrace as ÆAv. Paral·lel,62. and the confidence of M: Ciutadella/Vila well as a nightclub M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) knowing that the hip Olímpica (L4) for beautiful people www.barts.cat and happening will www.shoko.biz looking for a modern Sing it! be there at least once ambience that has a (L4) a week. Ocaña touch of opulence, Tired of singing in the shower BURLESQUE ÆPl. Reial, 7. M: Liceu (L3) Another Plaça is next to the Hotel and not getting your www.sidecarfactoryclub.com Reial venue, Arts, practically on Ocaña combines a Barceloneta beach. deserved 15 minutes of fame? El Molino Shôko Lounge restaurant, café and ÆPg. Marítim de la Check out Barcelona’s various After extensive Club two night-time spaces: Barceloneta, 34. karaoke hot spots, which renovations in 2010, This enduringly the Club, which seeks M: Ciutadella/Vila this grand dame popular beachfront to unite New York and Olímpica (L4) include the George Payne pub, has returned to her destination has all Ibiza party nights, www.opiumbarcelona.com Touch Music and Weekend former glory. ‘The Karaoke Bar. Mill’ was once a Sala BeCool symbol of resistance Æ For details see timeout.com/barcelona/music-nightlife. This is where the city’s against official novelty-hungry music censorship, but lovers go to find out today sticks to its what’s happening in main job as a cabaret, places like London burlesque and music and Berlin. You won’t you’ll find nightly nights that follow are hall. For the past find a regular crowd – residencies that legendary. Divide seven years, in June, it varies from one gig feature blues, disco, your time between they’ve staged the to the next, depending pop-rock, and vintage the rooms playing hip Barcelona Burlesque on who’s headlining. and Spanish rock. hop, pop, lounge and Festival, with some ÆPlaça Joan Llongueras, 5. ÆMuntaner, 246. Latin sounds. of the world’s best M: Hospital Clínic (L5) M: Hospital Clínic (L5) ÆAv. Diagonal,547. starlets showing off www.salabecool.com www.luzdegas.com M: Maria Cristina (L3) their sensuous skills. www.bikinibcn.com ÆVila i Vilà, 99. Luz de Gas Bikini M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) This lovingly Bikini has lost some BARTS www.elmolinobcn.com renovated old music of its muscle in recent On the foundations hall, garnished with years, with the big- of what was once the chandeliers and name stars it once Gran Teatro Español classical friezes, is booked replaced by and Barcelona’s a mainstay on the little-knowns and Studio 54 in the live music scene. In ageing rockers. Still, 1980s – which between visits from gigs are staged with hosted concerts international artists the professional by the likes of New and benefit concerts vigour of gold-ticket Order, Depeche for local causes, shows, and the club Mode, Duran Duran,

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 90 91 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 LGBTI

Edited by Martí Sales timeout.com/barcelona/lgbt

Discover a place DIAS MARIA for you

Barcelona’s gay community enjoys a range of places to meet people, hang out and have fun. By Hannah Pennell IRENE FERNÁNDEZ IRENE

La Sue BCN out their moves without having to adhere to any on the local scene. The basic aim is having fun Since opening in August 2012, La Sue BCN socially ascribed roles. In February 2017, the in original and diverse ways; that means live 1 has become one of the city’s top places group hosted the second Tango Queer festival. shows, theme parties, magicians, DJs, drag for women to meet women. It’s popular for Æ C/ de la Paloma, 5, bajos. www.facebook.com/tqbcn queens, great disco music and whatever else watching Barça matches while snacking on their ‘believers’ might want. Open every night sandwiches, salads and tapas (the kitchen is La Federica from 9pm to 5am (Friday and Saturday until the domain of Sue’s wife, Mercè). If literature is The Alberts – Albert Villaplana, graphic 6am), if you find yourself regularly drawn more your leaning, they also organise poetry 3designer, and Albert Macaya, who worked there, you can sign up as a VIP believer. recitals and monologues, as well as provide a in safaris – took over this popular gay bar in Æ Balmes, 56. www.thebelieve.club comfortable place to catch up with your reading. 2015, setting out to offer something completely With one-off activities like fancy dress Carnival different from what was already available in Carita Bonita BCN parties, this bar is great year round. the nearby hip street of Blai. Clients go there Started as a Friday night party by the two ÆVillarroel, 60. www.facebook.com/lasue.bcn.3 for glamour and glam decadence, and to eat 5women behind Melon Party (see page 93), really well. Every other Saturday, the Alberts Ursu and Mireia, Carita Bonita BCN has now set Tango Queer Barcelona host a theme party, which sees them go all out itself up as a permanent bar in the Gayxample Fancy learning to dance the tango? Head decorating the bar and themselves. area of the city. Open Wednesdays to Saturdays 2to Inusual Project on Mondays at 7pm Æ Salvà, 3. www.facebook.com/barlafederica from 8pm to 3.30am, it’s already a popular (beginners) and 8.30pm (intermediaries) for place for snacks, cocktails and hanging out with classes with Dafne Saldaña who teaches from a Believe Club friends, old and new. They also have DJs, music, gender-breaking perspective. From 10pm, the Inaugurated in April 2017, this Eixample and screens showing football matches. Milonga Queer is open for whoever wants to try 4club is determined to shake things up Æ Balmes, 69. caritabonitabcn.com Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 92 LGBTI

OUR PICK OF THE BEST LGBTI PARTIES IN BARCELONA

Stupenda featured on this page: On the first Thursday Churros, Ká, POPair, of every month, the La Rebujito and Classic disco of the SomosLas. For this Arena group hosts three-monthly (or this party night for so) mega-fiesta, they women. It includes put their collective screenings, the resources together for ‘message game’ (an an exuberant night indirect way to meet of music, dance and people), gifts and fun. To find out where a striptease where and when they’ll next a brave and bold be strutting their volunteer from the stuff, check out their audience is called for. Facebook page. First Thu of month, 11pm-3am. facebook.com/seranlascinco Arena Classic, Diputació, 233. M: Universitat (L1, L2) Churros con Chocolate Playing everything from obscure Spanish pop sounds to the latest Katy Perry

La Rebujito commercial house The main feature music with a Spanish Nenis Out and of this party is that pop hit thrown in Subtitled ‘The there’s usually a happy now and then. They Lesbian Night’, this about hour starring the also do theme nights, party event, running rebujito, a typically where the clientele since 2015, takes Barcelona celebrates gay Andalusian drink – dons costumes. place every Saturday culture with two big summer just the tonic to get any Up&Down, Av. Dr. Marañón, evening in Believe tracks, this is a fun, party going. And we 17. M: Zona Universitària Club. It was started by ever-changing festivals. In June is Gay Pride, can tell you first-hand (L3. L9S). legendary Barcelona session with a diverse with the huge parade and much that at La Rebujito, it DJ Lady Chus – she’s audience where more. The other is August’s does just that. SomosLas been in the business anything goes and One Friday a month. Metro Ferran Camarasa, the for close to a quarter where, above all, Circuit Festival, two weeks of Disco BCN, Sepúlveda, 185. man behind logistics of a century – who good vibes rule. Get parties, shows and pool fun. M: Universitat (L1, L2) and artist hospitality is renowned both there early to enjoy Æ pridebarcelona.org; circuitfestival.net; girliecircuit.net for both Nitsa Club on the local and some of the titular Melon Party and Primavera Spanish LGBTI scene; churros (long fried The organisers are Sound, is also the she’s also one of the doughnuts covered heels. In 2013 they Barcelona’s nightlife, committed to their creator of this session residents of the Girlie in sugar) with hot moved their soirées namely DJ Albertoto. cause: throwing that he modelled on Circuit Festival (see chocolate. to a cocktail bar. Ká is With the help of parties for young what was going on in box) and monthly One Sunday a month. Sala an explosive session family and friends, lesbians just starting Berlin and that brings Girlicious party. Apolo, Nou de la Rambla, 113. that has made its way he puts on this to go out and eager to together any lesbians Believe Club, Balmes, 56. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) through two venues alternative session have fun dancing to and gays who want a M: Urgell (L1). www.facebook. and is now a regular at for everyone from place to play. com/nenisbarcelona La Ká Plataforma. the bear world. ‘We One Friday a month. La [2] de Sandro and Jon are One Sunday a month. started POPair to fight Apolo, Nou de la Rambla, 111. friends who met over Plataforma, Nou de la Rambla, against Barcelona’s M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) a decade ago and 145. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) gay nightlife going MORE AT started throwing stale and to break Las Cinco house parties where POPair stereotypes,’ he says. ‘The Five’ is a TIMEOUT.COM/ everyone ended up A beard is the key into First Friday of each month. superparty organised BARCELONA showing off their this party thrown Metro Disco BCN, Sepúlveda, by various of the wares in wigs and by a big player in 185. M: Universitat (L1, L2) events already

93 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Edited by Eugènia Sendra timeout.com/barcelona/art-culture Art

A PERFECT COMBINATION of old-fashioned 1800s, Colònia Güell’s boss, Eusebi Güell, opulence and stylised modernisme, Palau wanted good living conditions for his workers. Güell is tucked into a skinny Raval street. His ideas included religious and cultural The building, designed by Antoni Gaudí for buildings, constructed in Gaudí’s modernista his patron, Eusebi Güell, stands today as style (Claudi Güell, 6, Santa Coloma de Cervelló. Pure a symbol for Catalan nationalism. As you gaudicoloniaguell.org). explore, take note of how the rising In 1884, Güell hired Gaudí levels (from the modest basement again for the renovation of his to the ostentatiously colourful roof) ‘Finca Güell estate, Finca Güell. Styled with reflect the motif of wealth (Nou de la Asian designs and Mudejar Rambla, 3-5; palauguell.cat). is striking influences, Finca Güell is genius Casa Vicens, Gaudí’s first great striking because of its colourful for its house, holds a special place among tiles and innovative ironwork the architect’s earlier works. colourful such as the mythical dragon Antoni Gaudí is inextricably Designed with his signature colours tiles and protecting its gate (Avinguda linked with Barcelona. Abby and motifs, Casa Vicens marks a Pedralbes, 7). Narishkin explores some of his distinct period of Moorish influence innovative On the site of a medieval royal for Gaudí. Due to open to the public residence, the architect created lesser-known creations for the first time in autumn 2017, ironwork’ Torre Bellesguard,which gives you can be among the first to see this a sense of a free Gaudí, inspired masterpiece up close (Carolines, 24; by medieval castles and casavicens.org). working with Gothic Revival In contrast to most owners of resources (Bellesguard, 16-20; industrial colonies from the late bellesguardgaudi.com).

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 94 Art

CHECK OUT BARCELONA’S TOP MUSEUMS AND ART CENTRES

MACBA Fundación Art is taken seriously Mapfre at this place. If you’re The Foundation willing to tackle opened its shows that waver Barcelona space in between the brilliant KPVJG CPFVJGDCHƂKPICPF modernista Casa if you’re prepared to Garriga Nogués FQ[QWTTGCFKPIC building. Its shows trip to the MACBA so far have focused can be most on photographers rewarding. The such as Duane centre’s permanent Michals and Bruce collection is rooted &CXKFUQPCPFVJ in the second half and 20th-century QHVJGVJEGPVWT[ painters. YKVJOGFKCUQWPF Æ Diputació, 250. M: Passeig and performance de Gràcia (L2, L3, L4). art from the 1960s www.fundacionmapfre.org and 1970s. See this year: Hell according to Æ Plaça dels Àngels, 1. Rodin, Oct 10-Jan 21, 2018 M: Sant Antoni (L2) www.macba.cat See this year: Joan Brossa, Sep 21-Feb 2018 PABLO PICASSO. BUSTE D’HOMME (ÉTUDE POUR LES DEMOISELLES D’AVIGNON), 1907. PARIS, MUSÉE NATIONAL PICASSO. © RMN-GRAND © PICASSO. NATIONAL MUSÉE PARIS, 1907. D’AVIGNON), DEMOISELLES LES POUR (ÉTUDE D’HOMME 2016 BUSTE MADRID PICASSO. PABLO VEGAP, PICASSO. PABLO SUCESIÓN © OJÉDA. GABRIEL RENÉ PALAIS,

neighbouring study contemporary L’Hospitalet. Its focus CTVVJGOWUGWO 1917. Picasso is contemporary highlights the work visual art and it seeks and life of Tàpies in Barcelona to promote Catalan himself (he died in CTVKUVUCNVJQWIJPQV 2012). Marking 100 years since to the exclusion of Æ Aragó, 255. M: Passeig de Espai Volart MARIA DIAS MARIA Picasso’s last extended stay in foreign creatives. Gràcia (L2, L3, L4) Part of the Fundació ÆAv. Josep Tarradellas i Joan, www.fundaciotapies.org Vila Casas (which MNAC Barcelona, this show presents 44, L’Hospitalet de Llobregat. See this year: Susan Meiselas, has different sites This is the place for many works he produced M: Torrassa (L1) Oct 5-Jan 14, 2018 CTQWPF%CVCNQPKC  an overview of during that time, when he was www.teclasala.net Espai Volart houses Catalan art from the See this year: Carles Congost, Fundació Joan temporary shows in working with the Ballets Russos 11th to the 20th Oct 26-Jan 14, 2018 Miró its location in the old centuries. The of Serge de Diaghilev. 6JKUNKIJVCKT[XGPWG storerooms of the highlight is the Æ Museu Picasso. M: Jaume I. Oct 25-Jan 28, 2018 Fundació Antoni houses over 225 modernista building Romanesque Tàpies RCKPVKPIU Casa Antonia Puget. collection – murals The artist Antoni sculptures and all of Every July it shows from medieval Tàpies set up a /KTÏoUITCRJKEYQTM work by Fine Arts churches in the www.museunacional.cat among the most foundation in the RNWUUQOG students from Pyrenees See this year: Ramon Pichot, interesting shows to former Montaner i drawings.The Barcelona University. transported here to Sep 21-Jan 7, 2018. be found in the city. Simon publishing permanent collection ÆAusias Màrch, 22. keep them from ÆAv. Francesc Ferrer i house in 1984. As shows Miró’s use of M: Urquinaona (L1, L4) falling into ruin. Also CaixaForum Guàrdia, 6-8. M: Espanya (L1, well as a place to primary colours and www.fundaciovilacasas.com unmissable is the This masterpiece of L3; FGC). obrasocial.lacaixa.es UKORNKƁGFQTICPKE See this year: modernista industrial See this year: Giorgio de HQTOUCUYGNNCUVJG Lita Cabellut, EQNNGEVKQPYJKNGVJG modernisme (a Chirico, until Oct 22 NCTIGDNCEMQWVNKPGF Oct 5-May 27, 2018 decorative arts former yarn and paintings from his section includes VGZVKNGHCEVQT[  Centre d’Art Tecla ƁPCNRGTKQF MORE AT original furniture designed by Puig i Sala Æ Parc de Montjuïc, s/n. from modernista %CFCHCNEJJQWUGU Set in a 19th-century M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) TIMEOUT.COM/ houses. three memorable RCRGTOKNNVJKUCTV www.fundaciomiro-bcn.org BARCELONA Æ Parc de Montjuïc. spaces for temporary centre lies just See this year: Sumer, Oct

M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) exhibitions – often DG[QPF$CTEGNQPCKP DIAS MARIA 25-Jan 28, 2018

95 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Books

Edited by Josep Lambies timeout.com/barcelona/art-culture

Blooming great Sant Jordi: In recent years, around 6 million 1roses have been sold across Catalonia on April 23. About 80 percent are red, while yellow, rainbow and Barça a book and blue-and-red ones are also popular.

Historic day a rose Shakespeare is said to both 2have been born (1564) and died (1616) on April 23. In addition, April 23 is always a it’s recorded as the day Cervantes was special day in Barcelona. buried (also 1616), having died the By Maria Junyent previous day. Read all about it SANT JORDI (aka Saint George) is the patron In 2017, just over 1.6 million saint of Catalonia, and although his feast 3books were purchased in day on April 23 isn’t a public holiday, it’s Catalonia, worth about €21 million, a four always a local celebration. Don’t expect saints percent increase on 2016. Among the clutching swords or dragons dripping blood: non-fiction bestsellers was Marie Kondo’s it’s a day for lovers, authors, book signings The Life-Changing Magic of Tidying Up. and roses. Tradition dictates a rose for her and a book for Keep an eye on the sky him. But nowadays the rules are more flexible – The only thing that can ever bring women like to read too! Getting your hands on 4local spirits down on the day of Sant a rose couldn’t be easier. In fact,on that day it’s Jordi is bad weather. Anxious viewing of hard to find a corner in the city that hasn’t been the weather forecast becomes a national invaded by impromptu flower stalls. sport in the days leading up to April 23. For book-givers, the prize is a spanking- new first edition signed by the author. It Global celebration seems every writer in Spain – and a few This day has been designated foreign ones – spends the day being 5UNESCO’s World Book and herded round signing sessions. Browsing Copyright Day. As well as Shakespeare groaning tables of books, both new and Cervantes, it is also the date of birth releases and classics, is one of the day’s or death of other renowned authors like pleasures, although you should broach Vladimir Nabokov and Catalan writer the crowded thoroughfares with patience. Josep Pla. There’s more to the day than just books and roses. Balconies are draped with The times they are a-changin’ Catalan flags, while restaurants are booked As might be expected at a time out by couples seeking a romantic table for 6when new products hit the shops two. La Rambla reaches full capacity, and weekly, many creative souls have come up Plaça Catalunya becomes with innovative items for sale on April 23, an open-air stage with a such as rose lollies, boxes of chocolates continuous programme of in the shape of books, and bread with an music and other acts. Q edible Catalan flag running through it.

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 96 Books

WHERE TO BUY BOOKS IN BARCELONA AND LITERARY FESTIVALS

Altaïr tomes and a well- If you’re planning stocked corner a trip, this has to be dedicated to books your first stop – it’s and games for kids. the largest travel Æ Balmes, 129 bis. bookshop in Europe. M: Diagonal (L3, L5); You can pick up FGC: Provença. guides to eating free www.libreriainglesa.com in different cities, academic tomes Hibernian Books on geolinguistics Originally opened and handbooks on as a second-hand successful outdoor bookshop in English sex, as well as in 2004 (the owners essentials like maps, shipped over some travel journals and 30,000 books from mosquito nets. Dublin for their base Æ Gran Via, 616. stock ), they soon M: Universitat (L1,L2). moved to bigger www.altair.es premises and have started selling a small selection of new books alongside their main stock. Æ Montseny, 17. M: Fontana (L3). www.hibernian-books.es

Laie and non-fiction in a Laie is one of the top range of languages, Read like bookshops in town although the majority among the literati and are in English. Browse FNAC-Triangle a local those looking for the the shelves while The most centrally latest publications enjoying coffee or tea located temple of Open since 1975, when Spain’s from Catalonia, Spain and a slice of one of cultural consumption dictatorship came to an end, and abroad. They their delicious cakes. in the city, with books have an immense Æ Villarroel, 27. M: Sant (there’s quite a good this bookshop still has a certain collection of fiction Antoni (L2), Urgell (L1). Continuarà selection in English), ’70s glamour to it, thanks to the (plus local and foreigh babeliabcn.com Comics CDs, movies, cameras, charisma of owner Josep Cots. literary magazines), This two-floor computers and other while cinephiles and BCN Books temple to the comic electronics. It’s also Æ Documenta, Pau Claris, 144. M: Girona (L4). music fans can also This two-storey is a Barcelona a main location for satisfy their cravings. bookshop has a very classic along with ticket sales. Æ Pau Claris, 85. decent fiction and Norma Comics. Æ Plaça de Catalunya, 4. La Central La Central del M: Urquinaona (L1, L4). classics section, and The ground floor is M: Catalunya (L1, L3; FGC). The largest of Raval www.laie.es an especially good dedicated to Spanish www.fnac.es three La Central This is probably the selection of books in and European bookshops in the city, coolest bookshop Babèlia Books & English dedicated comics along with La Casa del Llibre this aesthetically in the city, thanks Coffee to Catalonia and merchandise for The branch in Rambla pleasing space has a to its setting in a This combo café/ Barcelona. mythomaniacs de Catalunya is wide range of books, former chapel and second-hand Æ Roger de Llúria, 118. of Star Wars and one of the largest including a small, thousands of titles bookshop has fiction M: Diagonal (L3, L5). other fantasy sagas. bookshops in the city. eclectic selection of with a special focus www.bcnbooks.com Downstairs is all It has a good English- English tomes. Its on the humanities. If about Japan and the language section, specialities include you have a few hours Come in Llibreria US, featuring manga plus an open, airy art, social sciences to kill, you could do Inglesa and anime, as well as ambience and spaces and contemporary worse than let yourself Here you’ll find a a space dedicated to for presentations and thought, while there’s wander among its range of books from American comics with activities. a nice café upstairs. extensive and well- fiction to cookery vintage editions going Æ Rambla de Catalunya, 37. Æ Mallorca, 237. M: Diagonal stocked shelves. manuals and graphic back to the 1920s. M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, L3, (L3, L5); FGC: Provença. Æ Elisabets, 6. M: Liceu (L3). novels, as well as a lot Æ Via Laietana, 29. M: Jaume I L4). www.casadellibro.com www.lacentral.com www.lacentral.com of language-learning (L4). www.continuara.org

97 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Books

Fatbottom prizes it awards: This little cave of a silver violet for illustrated books third prize, a golden and graphic novels rose as second and, features adventure naturally, a real stories ranging from flower for the winner. bears hunting salmon The games died out to the latest graphic in the 15th century novels from the but were resuscitated hottest authors of the in 1859 as a vehicle moment. for the promotion of Æ Lluna, 10. M: Sant Antoni the Catalan language. (L2). fatbottombooks.com Nowadays, you’ll also hear Castilian, Gigamesh Basque and Galician Its motto is ‘vice and as well as various subculture’, and world languages. it’s fair to say that Æ May 2018. lameva. this shop more than barcelona.cat/ fulfills its mission: barcelonapoesia Gigamesh is one of the cornerstones of geek culture in Barcelona, a top- drawer source of sci- fi, horror and fantasy, whether in book or comic form, and with a great catalogue of books in English. Æ Bailén, 8. M: Arc de Triomf (L1). www.gigamesh.com eye is hidden in a festival of the dark bunch of wine boxes side of literature. Speaking from – the picture books, Talks, round-table Saló del Còmic with fiction separated discussions and With everything for experience from non-fiction. Self- prizes, all of it as black the comic enthusiast, edited books, origami as noir. from videos to The ‘First Person’ festival and puppets have also Æ Jan-Feb 2018. lameva. conferences by features writers who employ found a place here. barcelona.cat/bcnegra guest illustrators Æ Vic, 14. M: Fontana and writers and, of the first person singular and (L3); FGC: Gràcia. www. Món Llibre course, collectibles, their own experience as raw casaanitallibres.com ‘Book World’, the this event is a dream material for their work. Recent festival of children’s come true every Norma Comics BCNegra and young adult spring for thousands It doesn’t matter guests include Caitlin Moran It’s a dark and stormy literature, is the of fans; indeed many if you grew up and Richard Price. night. Barcelona annual meeting point come dressed as their worshipping Stan Æ Primera Persona. May 2018. www.cccb.org is breathing like for families. The favourite characters. Lee or Fran Miller, she smoked a lot of event fills various If manga is more your following the sagas of cigarettes and then venues, in and thing, from Nov 1 to 5, Godzilla or Star Wars, exhaled the smoke around the MACBA 2017, Barcelona holds or if you can argue till Abracadabra presentations and over the barrel of a and the CCCB, its 23rd Manga Fair in you’re blue in the face Llibres exhibitions. gun. It’s late January with numerous the same venue. over the work of Art At this children’s Æ General Álvarez de Castro, 5. and the only way to free activities like Æ Fira de Barcelona, Av. Reina Spiegelman, Daniel bookshop, you’ll M: Urquinaona (L1, L4), Jaume I keep warm on the workshops, theatre, Maria Cristina. M: Espanya (L1, Clowes or Jacques find colourful (L4). abracadabrallibres.com mean streets is a exhibitions and L3; FGC). March 2018 (tbc). Tardi – Norma is for publications in a shows. www.ficomic.com you all. Once you’ve variety of languages, Casa Anita Æ April 2018. lameva. made your purchase, as well as educational Here’s a place made barcelona.cat/monllibre head next door to toys and other for kids and teens that Glups to peruse your special items. The is still fun for adults, Poesia MORE AT new treasures with a shop also boasts where you can spend This poetry festival drink or snack. an independent hours discovering the started in 1393 as the TIMEOUT.COM/ Æ Pg. de Sant Joan, 9. M: Arc space intended for marvels between the courtly Jocs Florals BARCELONA de Triomf (L1). kids’ workshops, covers of a book. The (Floral Games), www.normacomics.com storytelling, book apple of Casa Anita’s named after the

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 98 Promotional feature New sports hub Nike launches BOXBARCELONA, a meeting-point for lovers of sport, art and the latest trends that is set to revolutionise Barceloneta

DO YOU WANT to start into shape with their sessions. doing more exercise and One of the ones that really stands rediscovering sport? Then out combines stretching and head for Barceloneta where live music: on the sand, Paula you’ll find a new sports hub, Butragueño leads the exercises for entrepreneurs and artists, a paradise created by Nike: while the guitar and sweet voice both those who have already BOXBARCELONA. It’s a unique of Anna Pacheco provide the worked with BOXBARCELONA A range of space, right by the beach, that music. And if you’re one of those and others looking to get aims to be a meeting-point people who’s been training with involved: you’ll be amazed by disciplines for all sports fans. How? With Nike for some time, don’t worry! the beauty of the photographs will introduce its inviting venue, numerous The Nike + Run Club will remain by Alba Yruela, captivated by sports talents in charge of all active and will also start from the wooden chairs made by you to a new kinds of training sessions, and Barceloneta. Whichever sport Marc Morro, and surprised at the world of a wide range of disciplines that you choose, leave everything posters that have emerged from will introduce you to a new in your locker, do your session the mind of Arnau Pi. And these sport world of sport. Plus there’s a then head to the chill-out zone to are just a few of the local artists shop on the ground floor. watch the sun set. who have left their mark there. Through the vision of these C/Atlàntida, 78 Come and discover young people and innovators, (La Barceloneta). Yoga, boxing, dance, boot camps, Much more than sport a warm space has been created, Registrations: SUP pilates... There’s a whole The sculpture ‘Wounded star’ right in front of the sea, which nikeboxbarcelona.com community of emerging talent by Rebecca Horn is located just aims to connect with locals and that’s changing the way you can in front of BOXBARCELONA. revolutionise Barceloneta and enjoy and experience sport. At Coincidence? No! Because this the wider city. If you like sport BOXBARCELONA, you can meet is a sports hub that’s also a talent and culture, you’ll feel right at some of these trainers and get and creativity breeding ground home!

99 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Food Edited by Ricard Martín timeout.com/barcelona/restaurants

BODEGAS Life out of a barrel A taste of real Barcelona can be found in its bodegas, where the wine is cheap and the snacks tasty. By Martí Sales. Photos Iván Moreno

AMONG THE TRENDY cocktail bars and Scandi- the aperitif (Violant d’Hongria, 105). On style cafés, Barcelona is still home to many the other side of the city, in Nou Barris, La classic bodegas, those wholesale vendors of Bodegueta d’en Miquel is small but has been wine that’s housed in large wooden barrels one of the neighbourhood’s most important stacked along the walls. Not only can you take social centres for the past 50 years. On an empty plastic bottle to be filled straight Thursday evening, they offer a drink and tapa from the vat for a cheap local vintage, many for just €1.95 (Plaça dels Jardins d’Alfàbia, 3). of these places also have tables where you In Raval, Bodega Montse is the last bastion can linger with friends for a civilised chat of a long tradition of bodegas in the area. The over a glass of wine and a few accompanying son of the eponymous Montse, Javi, serves nibbles. Here we guide you towards some good, cheap food just as the bar’s respective of the bodegas we think should be on your owners have done for over 100 years. You Barcelona bucket list. Take, for won’t find a particularly young instance, Bodega Montferry. A clientele, but that’s part of the great example of the enthusiasm ‘We think appeal – go ready to listen and such traditional establishments these you’ll hear fascinating stories can arouse in their fans, and how and wise life lessons. The walls Amazing anchovies they can be renovated without bodegas are decorated with photos of Bodega J. Cala losing an ounce of authenticity. old Barcelona, bullfighting Wooden doors painted red. In 1964, Pere and Evangelina should be posters, and dust and cobwebs Rows of barrels darkened by the opened this bodega in Sants, then on your that are generations old (Arc de passing of time. An Espanyol spent their lives there serving Sant Agustí, 5). Finally, if you’re football club shirt. The J stands vermouth and anchovies. In 2013 Barcelona looking for somewhere to go in for Joaquina, mother of the they decided it was time to retire, bucket list’ a group, Celler Cal Marino in owner, Johnny. He and his wife and in no time blogger Alberto Poble-sec is located in an old Rosa spend hours every evening García (his site is En ocasiones veo fizzy-drink factory. Converted in cleaning the anchovies so they’re bares) had convinced two friends, 2013, this place has food options ready to eat (with olives and Marc and Raquel, to take it over almost as numerous as the vermouth) the following day. and convert it into a temple to alcoholic ones (Margarit, 54). Q Æ Pere IV, 640. M: Besòs (L4). Lunchtime only. PHOTOS: IVÁN MORENO IVÁN PHOTOS:

An oasis in the Born A trip back in time 100 years sating Gràcia Bodega Jané Bodega Salvat Bodega Marín This centenarian bodega This city is full of places to Opened as a grocery in 1916 was forced to move due to a discover, like this bar in Sants. by Enrique Marín, it was later redevelopment project. The new The lunchtime light that hits it taken over by Emilio Marín (no location has more space and would be reason enough to visit, relation) then Encarna Marín light than the old one but the but it also happens to be one of (no relation!) and her husband, same wooden fridge. With walls the best bodegas in town: old who turned it into a bodega. Tere covered with bottles, craft beer trophies, barrels as old as time Cercós, hubby Antonio and son on tap and a house vermouth, and renowned anchovies. If you Jordi (plus the late, much-loved this is an ideal place in the centre like wine from the barrel, order Mini the cat) have been the soul of for a drink and bite to eat. the Setze Vàlvules (Priorat). this historic spot since 1991. Æ Fonollar, 24. M: Jaume I (L4). Æ Andalusia, 2. M: Mercat Nou (L1). Æ Milà i Fontanals, 72. M: Joanic (L4).

101 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Food

WE TALK TO... Martín Berasategui

THERE’S NO ‘I’ in the kitchen. A chef needs also a chef, and I quickly realised he has an people to help them. That’s not me talking, it’s innate talent. We don’t have any rules about Martín Berasategui. Following any success, the creativity; sometimes there’s enough with a first thing the Basque Country native does is pencil and a notebook. We jot down emotions, credit his team; when he won the third Michelin tastes, textures and flavours. Sometimes star for his Barcelona restaurant Lasarte, I seek out a unique flavour, other times, an he had words of unconditional gratitude for association of flavours. We’re permanently on Paolo Casagrande (the chef-in-residence), the the hunt for new things, we’re curious about Cadarso family (investor partners), Juan Carles everything that’s happening around the world. Ibáñez (maître d’ and sommelier), and Inés Vázques (communication and PR). Berasategui Lasarte wasn’t among most people’s is enjoying ‘the happiest time’ of his life; he’s predictions for a third star. the first three-star chef twice over in Spanish It’s unfair that people talk without actually history and the first to have three stars in having been to the restaurant, and base Barcelona. what they say on cronyism rather than real knowledge of places. I know the superhuman You’ve become the most valued chef in the effort that we’ve made at Lasarte in the past

Michelin guide. Does that make you dizzy? few years. CHASSEROT SCOTT I’m dealing with it fine, with the same freshness as in 1975, when I started learning You’ve never done anything that’s not a the trade from my parents. I restaurant. No hamburger joints or was taught that whatever you food products. choose to do, you give it your all. ‘Sometimes I’ve been lucky enough to be asked My university was the Bodegón I seek out to create made-to-measure places Alejandro, the traditional eatery where I feel comfortable. But of where I was born. The best dish of a unique course a hamburger can be very 41 years in the profession is the good if it’s done well. I’ve got a motivation to work. flavour, lot of respect for everybody who other becomes a chef. For five years Michelin has rewarded the at Bodegón, I wore just trousers, creativity with which Casagrande times, an polo shirt and apron. Having interprets your personality. How do association seen [Spanish chefs] Arguiñano, you work together? Subijana and Arbelaitz, I didn’t We meet every day. Paolo was of flavours’ dare put on the chef’s jacket. Ŷ recommended by a friend who’s Interview by Ricard Martín

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Parking Pizza This place is an Instagram 5star. Parking Pizza combines extremely photogenic quality – think a specialised Brooklyn café – ON THE MENU with the knowledge of how to make an excellent wood-burning oven. The result is pizzas created using top ingredients that are a huge Newly baked Mesié Sin Gluten success both in photographs and Wheat is the devil (at least in your stomach. They offer a range 3according to some books). of new combinations that include pizzerias But it is true that an increasing delicacies such as black truffle, number of people are coming to Fontina cheese and Parmesan, realise that if they abstain from where the impetuousness of the A good pizza is a lovely thing, but here gluten, it helps their digestion no mushrooms is balanced by the we throw the spotlight on places that are, end. If you’re among that number, smoothness of the cheeses. The with notable success, thinking outside the at Mesié Sin Gluten, you’ll find pizzas aren’t cheap, but their an excellent choice of gluten-free quality and the flavoursome effect circle. By Ricard Martín pizzas. created by the oven give them Æ Siracusa, 15. M: Joanic (L4). a clear edge over many of their T. 93 119 56 05. €20. so-called competitors. ÆLondres, 98. M: Diagonal Massa Pizza (L3, L5); FGC: Provença. The owners of hamburger T. 93 633 96 45. 2joint Oval and Blitz €20-€25. sandwich bar have now applied their standards of style and quality to pizza, which means you get a lot of say in what you eat. For €8.90, you choose a base from three options, then add one condiment and three ingredients. For this basic tariff, 4 I get a luxurious Pizza d’Autore round overflowing Two young Rome natives with Girona beef, are behind this place that caramelised onion sells pizza by the slice and cherry tomatoes. (priced by weight) and The dough, which where the recipes range is made in-house, from the familiar to more has a perfect balance baroque creations that might between toasted and spongy well be inspired by historic when cooked. The venue papal banquets: pizza stuffed is enormous, restrained and with porchetta, orange and honey! well-distributed. There’s a good They also do something that, as DIAS MARIA selection of indie-rock played at a far as I know, has never been done civilised volume, and a brief, well- before: salad pizzas, like the one thought out and affordable menu of wild mushroom, lettuce, truffle of wine, beer and house desserts. cream and black olives. The dough They’ve cracked it. is left to ferment for 24 hours, Æ Mallorca, 196. FGC: Provença. making a crispy, light base for fresh 1 T. 93 004 14 26. €15-€20. ingredients from the local market. Domino Bar Æ Tamarit, 142. M: Sant Antoni (L2). T. 93 163 Don’t be fooled. This place is no relation of the giant US 03 99. €10-€12. pizza factory of a similar name. In this colourful cocktail bar, you’ll find creations such as the Bierzo (roasted peppers and cecina cured meat) or the japopizza (salmon, walnuts and wasabi vinaigrette). Having it with a coffee- tonic cocktail might seem criminal, but when it’s there in front of you, the combo suddenly makes perfect sense. Æ Flors, 16. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3). T. 696 46 17 25. €20.

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Edited by Ricard Martín timeout.com/barcelona/bars

BCN’s best pulling places

Hankering for a beer? Here are three of the city’s top spots for a really good pint. By Òscar Broc & Montse Virgili PHOTOS: IVÁN MORENO IVÁN PHOTOS:

Biercab. Monumental brewery Brewdog. Style and substance La Més Petita. Quality matters Staffed by some of the most knowledgable BrewDog, the Scottish craft beer with possibly Opened in early 2013, its name means ‘The beer-makers in the country, this monumental the best marketing in the world (viz. making Littlest One’, and it has to be said that this is brewery boasts 30 taps all of them serving up the strongest beer ever produced at the time not one of the city’s more commodious craft beer; about a third of them are dedicated and calling it The End of History, dropping drinking spots. However, it’s quality rather to the house beer, Naparbier while the others stuffed cats from a helicopter, and brewing than quantity that counts here and, thanks to are all international and feature every style of beer at the bottom of the Atlantic) has its own its eight draught beers, La Més Petita is beer, lager, ale, stout, etc., on the market – and bar in Barcelona. There you can try possibly the bar with the most the range is constantly changing. If you’re both their house specialities and taps per square metre in partial to new taste sensations, then it’s worth the ‘guest beers’, which regularly La Més Barcelona. Theirs is a carefully knowing that Biercab’s cellar has a stunning change. The pub features 20 craft selected offering of domestic and selection of bottled beers, from varieties that beers on tap, about half of which Petita may imported craft beers all served in rest in cognac barrels to those with unexpected are their own brews and the other be the BCN (very) cosy surroundings; the list origins. With such a pedigree, it’s hardly half are invited varieties; and of available varieties written up suprising the venue hit the top spot on ratebeer. we haven’t even mentioned yet bar with on the blackboard changes com’s ranking of global beer establishments in the menu of around 40 bottled almost weekly. If you’ve a party or summer 2014. For the peckish, they also serve beers. What do we recommend? the most picnic to go to, you can also get good food with a range of interesting dishes Without a doubt the Punk IPA, an taps per your brew of choice to take away such as sea bass ceviche, Wagyu tartare with Indian pale ale that makes up in reuseable containers. We Naparbier beer sorbet, and Belgian-style about 50 percent of BrewDog’s square suggest sampling Ratpenat mussels. More traditional Catalan fare is production and has transcended metre (‘Bat’), a brew created by La available as well in the shape of hand-cut ham the speciality world to practically Més Petita’s in-house beer or some nicely spicy patatas bravas. become a standard. exper t, Alber t Sanchís. Æ Muntaner, 55 (Eixample Esquerre). M: Universitat (L1, L2). Æ Casanova, 69 (Eixample Esquerre). Æ Diputació, 30 (Eixample Esquerre). www.biercab.com M: Urgell (L1). www.brewdog.com M: Rocafor t (L1).

105 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Drink 3 G&Ts SPOTLIGHT ON Some of our favourite places for a great gin and tonic The glasses at Tandem IRENE FERNÁNDEZ IRENE

DRY MARTINI One of the world’s best cocktail bars WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUT... Dry Martini A classic cocktail Æ Aribau, 162 (Eixample Esquerre). ⓜ Diagonal (L3, L5); FGC: Provença. T. 93 217 50 72. bar with hand-cut Nobody messes with Dry Martini’s intrepid barman, Javier glasses. de las Muelas. Or with the place itself, a world-renowned shrine to the famous cocktail, which is honoured with WHY YOU HAVE TO artwork and served in a hundred forms. All the trappings of a IT WAS FROM television that we learned GO... traditional cocktail bar are there but it has a notable lack of there was a world beyond the traditional Because both the stuffiness, and the musical selection owes more to trip hop Duralex glasses everyone had at home. drink and the glass than middle-aged crowd-pleasers. When it comes to gin, you Every time J.R., the baddie from ’80s are made by the can find flavours such as cinnamon, raspberry, coffee and Texas-based super-soap Dallas, shut his hands of artisans. blackcurrant, while the gimlet foxtrot is unmissable. office door, he poured himself a slug of And that’s luxury whisky that came out of a cut-glass bottle nowadays. which made a sound when the lid was put Æ Aribau, 56 (Eixample back in. Apart from this memory and the Esquerre). FGC: Provença. images of magnificent glassware featured T. 93 451 43 30. in classic films, it’s now in cocktail bars where you can find glasses that retain the cloudy brilliance of dreams. At Tandem, for example, the base of the glasses is marked with a grid pattern. A classic, sober style. Just what Alfredo, the father of the bar’s current owners, wanted when, on March 9, 1998, he ordered a consignment of glasses from Josep IRENE FERNÁNDEZ IRENE Antoni Moya, a Barcelona glass-cutter with his Negroni Elephanta workshop in the Les Corts neighbourhood. The Æ Joaquín Costa, 46 (Raval). Æ Torrent d’en Vidalet, 37 (Gràcia). exact date is marked, in pencil, in a notebook of ⓜ Universitat (L1, L2). ⓜ Joanic (L4). T. 93 237 69 06. orders displayed by Josep Antoni’s son, Toni, who Another place named after When the first spinach leaf was has followed in his father’s footsteps. a popular cocktail, this one dropped into a G&T, Elephanta Today, Toni still cuts by hand many of the glasses (which opened in 2004) mixes was already dominating the art in Barcelona’s cocktail bars. (They also sell from classic spirit with elegant, of this particular cocktail. They their shop at Passatge de Font, 8, which they’ve contemporary style. Don’t do it so well that now gin hysteria had for 65 years.) The first order came from the bother looking for the menu is coming back down to Earth, old Terraza Martini. Ever since, city barmen have – there isn’t one. Instead, Elephanta is still regarded as trusted the Moyas for their personalised glasses. have a chat with your friendly a place where you’re guaranteed The ones at Ideal still have a detail that recalls a bartender and you’ll soon be a drink that even the Queen castle battlement, those at Belvedere allude to the sipping on a memorable of England herself would world of Gaudí, and at Solange they pay homage gin-based concoction. approve of. to Art Deco. QMontse Virgili

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107 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Food BOOK YOUR

CATALAN CUISINE When it’s in season, 7 Portes they have the The eponymous TABLE NOW exquisite Bordeaux seven doors open lamprey. on to as many Lleida, 7. T. 93 423 45 70. dining salons, all M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) kitted out in elegant 19th-century décor. PIZZA Long-aproned La Bella Napoli waiters bring regional There’s likely no dishes, including a Listings one who’s been fishy zarzuela stew living in Barcelona with half a lobster, a for any length of different paella every time who doesn’t day, a range of fresh know about these seafood, and heavier wonderful pizzas. dishes such as herbed They’re served in black-bean stew an authentic Italian with pork sausage, atmosphere, with and orujo sorbet to noisy, cheerful finish. Reservations waiters. Book a table are available only if you’re going at the for certain tables; weekend. otherwise, arrive Margarit, 14. T. 93 442 50 56. early. M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) Passatge Isabel II, 14. T. 93 319 30 33. Piazze d’Italia M: Barceloneta (L4) A temple of southern Italian Bar Velódromo cuisine with an This classic serves ALLENDE CARLES innovative and quality dishes from provocative twist. early morning until The pizza chef the wee hours. With makes the dough Jordi Vilà (one of spin and dance the city’s cooking For when the parents CDQXGJKUƁPIGTVKRU maestros) at the helm, before transforming they produce an are in town it into an endless succession This is an excellent place, modern but outstanding crust. of dishes and tapas Dare to try their that will teach you comfortable, to try Michelin-starred sweet Nutella pizza, about Catalonia’s grandmotherly Catalan essentials. The which is completely gastronomic heritage. favourite dish here is the canelons – hearty, over the top but not The full menu is to be missed. available all day, so steaming tubes of pasta filled with shredded Casanova, 94. T. 93 323 if you fancy some beef and topped with a fragrant béchemal. 59 77. Iberian ham at 7am, Æ Restaurant Gaig, Còrsega, 200. T. 93 453 20 20. M: Hospital Clínic (L5) M: Rocafort (L1) or a croissant for a midnight snack, just TAPAS say so. La Esquinica Muntaner, 213. T. 93 430 Think of it not 60 22. home-made Catalan artichokes and antique furniture M: Poblenou (L4) as a trek to the M: Hospital Clínic (L5) cuisine. Now two aubergines, meatballs with modern decor, less-than-central sisters and their with cuttlefish and while still retaining Rías de Galicia neighbourhood of L’Havana families boast a home-made flan. its air of a small-town This restaurant is the Nou Barris, but as a Few restaurants faithful following of Lleó, 1. T. 93 302 21 06. bar. One delicious setting for the Iglesias quest; queues outside in Barcelona that regular customers. M: Universitat (L1, L2) recommendation: family’s wonderful are testament to opened in 1897 are There’s a warmth grilled sardines in relationship with the great value of still around. In 1945, about the place that SEAFOOD sauce, though they the finest seafood. the tapas. On busy a family took over makes you fall in Els Pescadors don’t always have The menu may have nights you’ll be asked one such restaurant, love at first sight. Josep Maulini and them. Rice dishes are Cantabrian lobster to take a number, L’Havana, keeping Among the many his wife have turned a staple on the menu, with garlic, John supermarket-style. its name and its recommendations this into a lovely and never disappoint. Dory, and txangurro Suggestions include commitment to are the battered spot, combining Plaça Prim, 1. T. 93 225 20 18. crab cannelloni. squid rings (chocos),

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llonganissa cured McFoie Burger is an sausage and stuffed exercise in fast-food mussels (tigres). heaven, as is the Pg. de Fabra i Puig, 296. bikini, a small version T. 93 358 25 19. of his take on the ham- M: Vilapicina (L5) and-cheese toastie. Diputació, 269. T. 93 488 09 El Jabalí 77. M: Passeig de Gràcia (L2, This deli bar, which L3, L4) is reminiscent of Paral·lel in its heyday, ASIAN is great for enjoying Bangkok Café tapas – try the patatas Squeezed into a bravas, the chicken matchbox-sized salad and the cured space, this tiny Thai sausage – while restaurant serves sipping on good delicious curries with wine. It’s also ideal a genuinely fiery kick Barcelona. lentils from Puy. for sitting on the – and cool Thai beers Vallirana, 26. Primarily French terrace and doing to quench the flames. T. 616 185 196. FGC: Padua and Mediterranean some serious people With its few tables and cuisine, Sol i Lluna watching. high level of success, Gado Gado is also known for its Ronda Sant Pau, 15. make sure you book In the Gothic quarter, ratatouille lasagna T. 93 441 10 82. (well) in advance. the long-established Sta. Coloma de with melted goat’s M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) Evarist Arnús, 65. Betawi is a popular cheese, salads, and T. 93 339 32 69. choice for Indonesian Gramanet desserts. Tapas 24 M: Plaça del Centre (L3) food, with fresh Verdi, 50. Another nu-trad spices and dishes that This neighbouring municipality T. 93 237 10 52. tapas bar focusing El Petit Bangkok balance sweetness (get there by metro L1) is ideal M: Fontana (L3) on quality produce. The authentic Thai and heat. Their other Among the oxtail specialities on the restaurant is Gado for a new gastro experience. stews, anchovies and menu here include Gado in Gràcia, which After checking out sights like the jamón croquettes, nem sausages and a also serves Thai Cacaolat factory, Recinto Torribera however, fans of range of curries and specialities. Try the chef Carles Abellán wok dishes. Serious eponymous gado and Can Zam, have tapas at one will also find playful connoisseurs of Thai gado salad with a rich of the local bars like Tremendos snacks more in food consider El peanut sauce, bakmi (Lluís Companys, 3) or 1982 Birres keeping with his Petit Bangkok one of goreng (traditional & Burger (Lluís Companys, 26), signature style. The the best eateries in stir-fried noodles with egg and veggies), or or go to Ca n’Armengol (Prat de their delicious curries. la Riba, 1), one of the city’s best- Or, 21. T. 93 179 85 58. known restaurants. M: Joanic (L4) Raso Terra This phenomenal GALICIAN vegetarian restaurant, Casa de Tapas Escairón prices and with owned by the Cañota Escairón is excellent service. presidents of Slow El Cañota is a particularly Fontrodona, 5. Food Barcelona, seafood tapas bar, remarkable for its T. 93 442 93 29. serves a fantastic and and the younger Galician entrecot M: Paral·lel (L2, L3) affordable set lunch brother of Rías de (sirloin steak) and menu from which you Galicia (see page 96). caldo gallego soup. VEGETARIAN-VEGAN can choose one, two They specialise in Owners Jorge and Sol i Lluna or three courses, all traditional dishes: Pilar make you feel In this warm made with purpose fried fish and seafood, at home, while the Gràcia restaurant, and care, and off the patatas bravas, clientele are mostly frequented by film traditional vegetarian Galician octopus, regulars. One of the buffs who pack the path – that is, with a ensaladilla rusa, stars is their house Verdi cinemas, you’ll lot of imagination and draught beer and Escairón dessert, find jewels in the using rediscovered wine. All of it is top- which is a crème crown of vegetarian recipes. At night quality, and served in caramel with a kind and vegan cuisine, they have a menu Petit Bangkok a laid-back venue. of nougat ice cream. such as the quinoa full of home-made Lleida, 7. T. 93 325 91 71. Excellent Galician wok and meatballs pasta dishes and M: Espanya (L1, L3; FGC) cuisine at reasonable made from French international

109 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Food

cuisines. the preparation of Palau, 5. T. 93 318 69 26. these dishes: ‘All the M: Jaume I (L4) utensils are vacuum packed and the bread, which we make, is prepared completely separately’, according to Conxita Ricard, speaking on behalf of the restaurant. Choose from dishes such as foie gras shavings, chocolate Govinda volcano, and scallops It’s hard to imagine without fear of later what locals must intenstinal problems. have thought when Even better, there’s no this place opened extra charge for gluten- in the mid-1980s free plates. – an Indian-style València, 28. T. 93 226 87 18. vegetarian restaurant that didn’t serve alcohol! In addition to their fine selection of Indian vegetarian specialities, they also have pizzas and a salad buffet as well as vegan dishes. Be careful when you order, because the portions are very generous. pibil (a marinated well-priced set menu. INDIAN Pl. de la Vila de Madrid, 4-5. pork-based dish) and Comerç, 27. T. 93 268 41 34. Om India T. 93 318 77 29. The granddaddy of chicken with mole Far removed from M: Liceu (L3) poblano, an elaborate COELIAC-FRIENDLY the sumptuous style stew made with Can Conesa of other local Indian JAPANESE Peruvian cuisine chocolate and a host This local sandwich restaurants (and this is Taverna Japonesa Opened back in 1993, long of other ingredients. and frankfurt classic TGƂGEVGFKPVJGRTKEG  Wakasa Torrijos, 47. T. 93 217 34 14. draws long queues Om India focuses on It seems that four before the current trend for that can extend into the Punjab region, tables and a Japanese dishes from Peru hit Barcelona, Tlaxcal Plaça Sant Jaume. And producing dishes that couple are all you this spot focuses its extensive Calling themselves deservedly so. What’s are at the same time need to create some a gastronomic taco more, for the past simple and generous – of the best sushi in menu on Peruvian Creole restaurant, the aim of decade or so,they’ve and their poppadums Barcelona: grilled cuisine, with a rich variety this excellent eatery served a gluten-free are very popular. salmon nigiri, of flavours. is to rediscover the bread (75 cents extra), Floridablanca, 140. salmon and turnip Æ Café Ninoska, Av. Icaria, 131 M: Ciutadella/Vila Olímpica (L4). traditional dishes of OCFGYKVJEQTPƂQWT T. 93 325 03 07. makis... and Japanese this great cuisine, and egg. From the desserts. It’s your using a dynamic more than 40 hot Namaste ticket to Japan CRRTQCEJ;QWoNNƁPF CPFEQNFƁNNKPIUVT[ A job done well is a real without boarding a prices. You won’t find M: Sant Antoni (L2) an interesting menu the warm Roquefort pleasure to behold, plane. Just bear in any sushi here, but of tacos, Mexican sandwich, or the one and that’s what you’ll mind that they’re they do have tofu, MEXICAN soups and dishes with stewed meat and ƁPFCV0COCUVG6JG[ only open at night pork dumplings and Cantina Machito that are rarely seen salsa de Marta. have sampling menus from Wednesday to Japanese-style fried This restaurant was in Barcelona. At Llibreteria, 1. T. 93 310 13 94. for both vegetarians Saturday; on Sunday, chicken. You can also serving authentic lunchtime there’s a M: Jaume I (L4) and carnivores, and they only do lunch. get miso soup with Mexican cuisine when serve up traditional Nàpols, 287. T. 93 207 63 95. fermented soya pasta everyone else was Nectari dishes made with M: Verdaguer (L4, L5) (red or white) which, ƁZCVGFQPVJG6GZ/GZ Nectari, holder of a Indian spices, like perhaps surprisingly format. Laid-back and Michelin star, offers seekh kebab lamb Bouzu to Western tastes, is colourful, they avoid all a creative menu rolls, or murg korma A good place to try a popular breakfast the usual stereotypes for those looking – chicken with onion, authentic Japanese dish in Japan. and even add artistic for gluten-free butter and cream. cuisine tapas-style Ronda de Sant Antoni, 26. touches to their options, as well as a Villarroel, 70. T. 93 451 40 27. at very attractive T. 93 443 32 26. dishes, like cochinita guarantee regarding M: Urgell (L1)

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 110 Promotional feature All’italiana! To enjoy a great pizza, made exactly right, you have to go to an Italian restaurant of course! Here are four in Barcelona that are experts in the art of the crust and where you’re sure to eat well

Mamma Mia With a rustic, authentic style, this is the first Italian restaurant in Poblenou. They make their pizzas in a wood fire, giving them fine, crispy crusts. Among their quality ingredients, the cured meats and Italian cheeses are two of the stars. The menu is rich and varied, and includes fish and meat cooked according to Italian recipes. What’s more, you shouldn’t miss their delicious home-made desserts – they’re mouth-wateringly good! ÆPallars, 230. Tel. 93 486 37 35. www.mammamia-bcn.com

Passione per la pizza The best of Italy in Nou Barris. Enjoy a welcoming, friendly atmosphere and attentive service from the moment you arrive. Passione per la pizza has an extensive menu with dishes made using top quality ingredients and based on classic recipes combined with avant-garde innovations. They have tasty calzoni and a large variety of pizzas including classics such as the Napoletana, the prosciutto e funghi and the 4 stagioni, while among their more original creations are the Boscaiola, made with Catalan botifarra sausage and wild mushrooms. Absolutely delicious! ÆCarrer del Molí, 4. Tel. 93 129 32 17. www.passioneperlapizza.com

La Pizza del Born Tasty pizzas with high, crispy crusts made in an authentic Argentinian style. La Pizza del Born has a wide range of options to try, including over 30 types of pizza. You can also try empanades, pasta dishes, fresh salads, home-made desserts, ice cream, and typical Argentinian sweets. What should you order? We suggest a slice of the pizza of the day and a glass of the house sangria. La Pizza del Born has been around since 1982, when it introduced Barcelona to the concept of buying pizza by the slice, and it’s never looked back. A revolution that today is a tradition! ÆPasseig del Born, 22. Tel. 93 310 62 46. www.lapizzadelborn.com

Siamo Qua Siamo qua means ‘here we are’ in English. And it’s a name that suggests at once that you’re in the hands of expert Italians. In what, though, you might ask? Well, in pizzas, naturally! Their speciality is authentic pizzas with crispy bases and a large selection of toppings. They’re all cooked over a wood fire and made with first- rate Italian ingredients, and according to traditional recipes. Because at Siamo Qua they know full well that originality means going back to the beginning. ÆRambla del Poblenou, 121-123 . Tel. 93 140 59 19. www.siamoqua.es

111 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Getaways

Edited by Hannah Pennell timeout.com/barcelona/trips-near-barcelona

Make a break for it

Not far from the city, you’ll find unique flora, fauna and history. Welcome to Barcelona – now get out. By Hannah Pennell

The heart of the matter Situated at the centre of Catalonia, Vic is a fantastically historical city with lots to see. The local council has created an itinerary that takes in 30 buildings and sites, including Tasting times a second-century Roman temple Wine tours are ten-a-euro-cent and remains of the city walls in these parts, so why not try one from the 14th century as well as with something extra. Torres, one various religious houses. The of Catalonia’s best-known wine cathedral is one of the highlights producers, run various activities with its myriad architectural styles throughout the year, including a including Romanesque, Gothic walking tour among its Penedès and Neoclassical. Next door is vineyards, followed by a tasting the Episcopal Museum, which of wine and hors d’oeuvres. You contains some 20,000 objects can also get a true flavour of Spain including medieval paintings and Destination Middle Ages such influence that the duke of with their wine and Ibérico ham sculptures. Finally, if you visit on If we tell you that the ‘Salt Lords’ Cardona was known as ‘the king pairing, with the chance to sample a Saturday you’ll find the lived in this castle between the without a crown’. A visit to the four varieties of cured ham and magnificent main square (it’s 11th and 15th centuries, you castle gives you the chance to see matching wine; alternatively, for spacious and lined with beautiful might think that we’re talking the modern fortress as well as the vegetarians, there’s a wine and arcades) filled with stalls for the about a new volume in the Game remains of the old county citadel. cheese pairing option. extremely popular weekly market of Thrones series. But, in fact, And from the top, you can enjoy www.torres.es – it also hosts fairs and other events these noblemen were the lords incredible views across the valleys throughout the year. of Cardona, related to the main of Cardener. Picture-postcard pretty www.victurisme.cat European royal families and with www.cardonaturisme.cat While there are plenty of gorgeous

Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 112 villages in the foothills of the it’s almost certain that the large as one of Catalonia’s major Pyrenees, Castellar de n’Hug majority have no idea they are sights, attracting thousands of stands out for its location near touching down just next to one visitors to its abbey, art museum the source of the Llobregat of the best places for spotting and natural beauty each day. River. The tumbling waters are birds in Catalonia: the delta of However, why not head inside dramatic, and the red roofs of the the Llobregat River. The area is so the mountain to explore the local houses against the forested good for ornithologists because saltpetre caves in Collbató, hills will provide plenty of photo it forms part of the migratory with its incredible stalactites, opps. The village is in the far route for certain species, and is stalagmites and columns formed north of Barcelona province, considered an IBA (important by water erosion over thousands so make a real trip out of it and bird and biodiversity area). The of years, which recall the work stay in the area to properly surprisingly unspoiled beach that of Antoni Gaudí. The guided appreciate the beautiful setting – touches the edges of the airport tours start with a climb of 244 a number of simple but practical has a well-signposted walk steps, and once inside – where accommodations are available in indicating the different things the ambient temperature is 14°C the village itself. you can see. with humidity that can reach 97 www.turismecastellardenhug.cat www.portadeldelta.cat percent – you’ll have the chance to hear some of the legends about Planes and birds Gaudí’s inspiration? these caves that are as old as the As visitors come in to land at Montserrat (the ‘serrated hills around them. Barcelona’s airport in El Prat, mountain’) is well-known www.collbato.cat

113 Time Out Barcelona Student Guide 2017/18 Time Out Interview The Eastern lover Mathias Enard won the Prix Goncourt for ‘Compass’, the story of an enamoured dreamer. By J o s e p L a m b i e s Photo M a r i a D i a s

IN 2008, MATHIAS Enard won that I lived abroad. I’ve had a close acclaim for Zone, a novel that relationship with countries like explores the Med area. His next Syria and Lebanon. work was Carrer Robadors, about a Moroccan émigré who wants to When Compass won the come to Barcelona. The tale ends Goncourt, you dedicated it to up in one of the darkest parts Syria. What effect can a book of El Raval, C/Robadors, where like this one have nowadays? Enard rented a flat for a long I think that books such as Compass time. His latest book is Compass, help to see the diversity of a world a symphony as ambitious as that we hardly know, because One Thousand and One Nights, it shows that above the war and and which picked up the 2015 violence there’s a culture, timeless Prix Goncourt, France’s most values and fascination. prestigious literary award. Among the real people who In the book’s first line, appear there are many two people are smoking composers and singers. What opium in Vienna. Is that role does music play in it? an anachronism? The music was fundamental. I A licence. I wanted to work have the sensation that here we are with a series of Eastern well-versed in Eastern plastic arts, fantasy stereotypes, painting and architecture, but the and the idea about the music is still mainly a mystery. opiates grabbed me. There are musicologists who’ve I was thinking about tried to import the harmonic opium and immediately principles from the Persian a torrent of images came to tradition, for example, but they’ve mind: an obscure corner had to act as a kind of translator in China where people to make them compatible with reclined while smoking Western music. That’s also why I pipes, rebellious American wanted it to be set in Vienna. youth, and the darkest dens of Europe. It wasn’t But you didn’t write this book just a question of the effect in Vienna, but in Berlin. Why? of the drug on the taker, but Chance. I was offered a residency ‘Books like also a transnational cultural and I took it. In Berlin, I could Compass symptom. be undisturbed and work on it completely, as if it was a vital help to How did you become a scholar parenthesis. It’s always good to of the Eastern world? have a change of scenery, to get see the Fate. I grew up in a small village in new ideas. diversity western France, and adolescence converted me into an avid Is your phase in Berlin of a world reader of adventure books. I was finished? we hardly fascinated by travel stories, about Yes, I finished in Berlin last explorers and their discoveries. year. Now, even though it’s a bit know’ When I was 18, I went to Paris to intermittent, I once more have a study Arabic and Persian. After foot in Barcelona. Q

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