Edinburgh Queen Street York Place F r e d e r C c i k H a a St.Andrew SQ SQ s S n t t el o v S George Street e t r r e S t e r t e Rose Street e t

Princes Street

N o Scott´s r t Monument h L B o r t i h d g ai e n R o a d Edinburgh Castle S o t u G Royal Mile h e B r o i Johnston TCE r d g g e e I V B r Grassmarket d i g Cowgate e

Edinburgh City Centre CONTENT Itineraries 1 „We´re are having a barrie time“ 10 Eating and Whisky and more „What´s on tonite?“ 20 clubs and cinema and more History and Culture 26 galleries and tartan and more Edinburgh is the most desirable city to live in the UK. At least, according to a 2009 YouGov poll. Edinburgh came out top for its atmosphere and positive reputation. We, the authors of this guide, can approve these results. “Auld Reekie” is indeed a wonderful place to visit. There’s the Castle, the Scott Monument, Arthur’s Seat ... yes, we talk about them, too. But beyond those mainstream sights we leave the trampled tourist paths and try to create an alternative gui- de to ’s capital. If you only have one or two days to stay our itineraries will help you spend them efciently. Edinburgh is a rather pricy town, in general. But the are spots which offer cheap , clothing or other items. Your wallet will thank you for taking our advice. Then, of course, there’s the whisky. You can’t leave Scotland without having tasted the best brands. Luckily, we have sorted out the the bad ones, so that you don’t have to. Finally, you’ll encounter people, attractions and stories you won’t nd in any other tourist gui- de. For Edinburgh in all its grandeur is yet to be discovered.

you Cit Travl Rw Team In the following (text) we would like to suggest you three totally different options how to spend your days in char- ming Edinburgh in the most efcient, yet affordable way. It is up to you to choose between: a very touristy and therefore historic, massive and impressive day – a rather alternative, picturesque and unique day or a pretty artis- tic, educating and entertaining day. However, in the end it needs to be said that – as different as they might seem I t i n – each day in some way includes all the above mentioned e r a r i e s adjectives.

In Scotland´s varied and inspiring Capital – Edinburgh - creativity and individuality is written in rather big letters. Maybe that is why became known for famous writers (like Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson), artists, philosophers (like David Hume), scientists and economics (like Adam Smith). Exploring Edinburgh´s Old and New Town includes a lot of walking. But thanks to closes, wynds and signicant historic buildings a walk is not just a walk – it is rather an experience and discovery. You soon feel at home and protected in this friendly and curious area. However, public transportation is more than unnecessary to discover this place, which seems to be neither a town nor a city – but this exactly is what creates Edinburgh´s unique character. Although it kept its small, familiar air and although this is the place where all the traditional, tiny specialized shops and their chatty salesperson still exist, it offers everything a human´s city heart might desire as well. It is now your time to be an explorer and to discover Edinburgh on your own, inspired by our itineraries. Have fun! 1 T o u r i s t y I t i n e r a r y

d as a World A visit to Edinburgh – inscribe 995 – would Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1 ot actively visi- not be complete if you have n d the treasure ted, experienced and absorbe ll your senses – chest of historic gems with a o yal Mile. that are at your disposal: the R of Edinburgh. The most typical touristy area

o provide you Yes – although we would like t anti-touristy with the most alternative and to of f er, we tips and places Edinburgh has the chance to also f eel the need to of f er you ic Old Town, experience Edinburgh´s histor uristy attrac- and with it its indispensable to tions. f the f act You might want to be aware o l notice that today surely everyone wil no shame that you are a tourist, which is most of the at all. Not that surprising that your route people you are going to see on re is no today are tourists, too. So the day to need to hide – today is YOUR day to f ree the tourist in you – YOUR r the explore one souvenirshop af te ngly other and YOUR day to stunni stop and stare with your head impressive t thrown back so to see this building in f ront of you. 2 To start this extraordinary day you climb up the four oors of the Scott´s Monument, which is situated in the heart of Princes Street. Hopefully it is a sunny day so that you have a clear overallview of Edinburgh in its full pride – the Monument´s four different viewpoints serve you with exclusive and accurate windy views to the North Sea, up Princes Street, down Princes Street with Carlton Hill & the Balmoral Hotel´s Big Ben – like clock in the background, and of course an excellent view of the Old Town and its Castle. Due to the fact that there are two other excellent viewpoints like Carlton Hill and Arthur´s Seat – which are, by the way, for free – you might not want to spend £3 on Scott´s Monument. Nevertheless it is higly recommen- ded, unless you are either afraid of heights, or claustrophobic. However, if you like cosy, dark spiral stair cases that lead you up the way – and force you to squeeze yourself past the descending strangers – it is worth the unique view.

Af t er get t in g t he r st im t he R oy a pr ession of l Mile – ap t he day f r o one pr ox imat ely m abov e y o and only pe a mile long u need t o he t a dest r ian zon , par t ly st ill ad t o r t ans, sc ot t e in E dinbu pr et t y r oy al ish sc ar v es, r gh. F or t ho and t he used by t o K ilt s, Shor t b se of y ou w ur ist as sou r ead or ot h ho ar e int o par adis v enir s f or t h er Sc ot t ish e - inc luding e lov ed one spec ialit ie buy high c lass s w ho st ay s - or dinar y t o c ashmer e s ed at home ur ist y t hing hops as w el : t his is F or t he r es s. l as af f or dab t of y ou it m le shops t o guess a ight be sat bout t he ot h isf y ing enou t our er ´s supply gh t o go in ist . T her ef o and mov e one of t he s r e y ou pass on t o f ulll t or es, f r ont of t he t he Hear t t heir t ask a C hur c h and of Midlot h s a pr oper t he only spit r ight in ian t o y our Af t plac e in Sc o t he middle lef t , r ight e r w a t land w her e of it . Indeed in d r d s t h y ou ar e as , t his pr oba o nk e y e ne x k ed t o spit i bly is r i d i n t at t r n public . b u t u g a h ac t i o n nf o r t u o r s e – w ai t i n t h nat e ac t u s j u s t e p a l y t he al l y t h ar o u i nb s t s o r e w e i s i s nd t h e t w e t hat i r e ma t he s t e c o r n e n l o t t no w d e s o at u e o e r – s o f p l o o k s me a f an a ar k i ng a b i t r c hi t e ad mi r s p o t d i s p c t i c al al , s . l ac e d mi s t a and i s k e s b ani s he d 3 As you are already next to the Church it is worth paying attention to it and to go in for a few minutes and – hopefully on a sunny day – to watch the reections of the imressive stained glass windows. However, the most important information about the Royal Mile is that it connects the Edinburgh Castle in the North with the Holyrood Pa- lace and the new, controversial Scotish Parliament in the South. Surely, there are some people who like to see the castle from inside – who like to see the room where Mary, Queen of Scots gave birth to her son James, the future King of Scotland and England – who like to see the Stone of Destiny as well as the Scottish Crown Jewels, called the Honours of Scotland,. Nevertheless this takes about 2 hours, so that probably some of you are satised with a picture of each on a yer and spend their time in a maybe more fun and exciting place – the Camera Obscura right below the Castle.

As t he t our ist y day mov es Unsur pr is on y ou will su ingly , t he Roy a r ely f eel t he ne dinne l Mile of f er s y ou ed t o get som r and of c our se a wide v ar iet y et hing t o eat . an beer or whisk y of plac es t o ha d less k nown a . So t her e ar e v e lunc h, c of f e s well as smalle lot s of t r adit ion e, c used c of f ee r sandwic h sho al pubs, inex p shops, whic h o ps of f er ing goo ensiv e St ar buc k s f f er y ou soups- d f ood, y oung- and Subway . A of -t he-day , as w people f o- lunc hb ll in all y ou ind ell as maint r ea r eak . Howev er , eed hav e mor e m shops lik e Sc o as we ar e on o t han one opt io t t ish w ur t our ist ic r ou n t o spend y o it h Neeps and t e it s appr opr ia ur c al, is hav ing f T at t ies in one o t e t o hav e a pr o ast f ood á la Sc f t he loc al pubs pper ot land: deep f r . C heaper , but ied F ish& C hips. st ill t y pi-

After having lunch it is time to take a walk to the graveyard. “Why go to a graveyard?“, you might wonder. But this is not just any graveyard. It is THE graveyard. The graveyard where you can nd the most haunted Mausoleum in Edinburgh and even more important: the graveyard including Greyfriar Bobby´s Grave! The grave itself is worshipped with a few pale-coloured plastic owers and rain-soaked cuddle toys. You might not have heard of “Bobby, the Terrier“ who, after the death of his owner, used to come to his grave for the rest of his live, 14 years, to still take care of him. Just around the corner Edinburgh dedicated Bobby a statue, which now ist the most photographed statue in Edinburgh – so feel free to unpack you camera and take the 100.000th Bobby-picture to update your photogallery. 4 : Fish and chips is a popular take-away food in Scotland therefore you denitely have to try it once. It consists of deep-fried sh (traditionally cod, haddock or ounder) in or bread crumbs with deep-fried chipped potatoes.

Scottish dessert: It seems that Scottish people have a sweet tooth because there are a lot of delicious but extremely sweet desserts. The most famous one is probably fudge, a small toffee bar si- milar to caramel, mainly made of and butter. After a visit in the Fudge House you get a sugar shock for sure! If you are into sweet staff you will be satised with having some , Dundee , or dou- ghnut... there is enough for everyone.

If you visit Edinburgh try Pies: these typical Scottish dishes: Pies are simply pieces of meat in gravy encased with crusty . These pies are lled with minced meat and onions. Often, the meat is replaced by innards. According to the traditi- on mutton meat is used but nowadays is Haggis with tatties and neeps: more commonly used. There are different types Haggis is Scotland’s national dish. It even of pies, such as sh , chicken pie, comes up rst in people’s minds when or . they think about Scotland. In the distant past when times were hard, haggis was a creative way of using up what is left over. It is with oats, , and pepper. Ingredients are stuffed into a sheep’s sto- mach to be baked and served up with tat- ties and neeps. Despite the fact that this all sounds awful, haggis is surprisingly tasty. As Scottish people more and more have become vegetarians they have in- vented vegetarian Haggis. It is a popular alternative to the old blood and guts way.

12 After strolling around Edinburgh in search of nice places to appease one’s appetite or hunger here are some sugges- tions of locations to go to:

Crag and Tail (Restaurant) Gourmet Burger Kitchen (Restaurant) 503 Lawnmarket, Royal Mile, 137 George Street EH2 4JY Edinburgh, EH1 2PH British and Irish franchise but tasty burgers at Small but modern, friendly internati- reasonable prices, huge portions, also offers onal staff, offer typical Scottish food, exotic burgers (e.g. Avocado burger, Jamaican good place to enjoy rich Scottish burger), contemporary interior design, lounge but also a place to be in the music, nice alternative to pubs and touristy evenings. places for business people as well as students.

Wannaburger (Restaurant) Susie’s Wholefood Diner (Vegetari- 217 High Street an restaurant) Edinburgh, EH1 1PE 51 West Nicolson Street, Newington At rst glance it seems to be a mainstream Edinburgh EH8 9DB fast food restaurant but it is probably one Specialises in organic vegetarian meals, of the best places to enjoy a big delicious relaxed atmosphere, chilled out staff, burger in Edinburgh, very friendly staff, easy-going and young atmosphere. students’ area, ideal for low budget.

Halfway House (Pub) Black Medicine Coffee Co. 24 Fleshmarket Close, 2 Nicolson Street Edinburgh, EH8 8DH Edinburgh, EH1 1BX Cosy and casual atmosphere, non conventi- The smallest pub in Edinburgh, winner onal place, meeting point for young people of the award for pub of the year 2009, and students, friendly staff, independent pri- vate run coffee shop, wide range of teas and hidden in the heart of Edinburgh’s Old fresh smoothies, broad range of food ranging Town, tiny but warmly welcoming you, from chocolate and cookies to cia- they specialise in ales/beers. batta melts and soups.

Jekyll & Hide Pub (Pub) L’alba D’oro (Fish’n’chips) 112 Hanover Street 5-7 Henderson Row, New Town Edinburgh, Midlothian EH2 1DR Edinburgh, EH3 5DH A bit dark but pretty individual place, toilets are hidden behind a bookcase, Probably best chippy in Edinburgh, unique character, chatty and delight- take-away and delivery. ful staff, regular comedy nights.

13 The Underground Café (coffee) The Kenilworth (Pub) 34 Elder Street 152-154 Rose Street Edinburgh, EH1 3DX Edinburgh, EH2 3JD, United Kingdom Welcoming atmosphere, cosy seats, Small venue but cosy and friendly place, friendly staff, huge portions, ideal for having a chat and get some delicious meals, also reasonably priced coffee, tea or . typical Scottish breakfast.

Biddy Mulligans (Pub) Royal Mile Tavern (Pub) 96 Grassmarket Edinburgh, EH1 2JR 127 High Street Edinburgh EH1 1SG Old-fashioned style, very rustic and Discounts for backpackers who are Scottish, ideal for typical Pub feeling staying in a hostel, lovely staff, friendly when enjoying a beer. Delicious and warmly welcoming atmosphere, young reasonably priced meals for lunch, e.g. people’s meeting point, live music play- soup with bread, a place where you nd ing current rock songs, nice place for locals drinking a beer with a good friend

Bannerman’s (Pub) The Canny Man (Pub) 212 Cowgate/Niddry Street Edinburgh, 237 Morning Side Road EH1 1NQ EH10 4 QU Historic pub, a bit hidden below South Bridge, mee- Outside the city centre but worth going there, ting point for students and backpackers, sometimes alternative style, individual pub full of nooks, crowded but very lively, live new alternative music staffed with antique and junk, pub with the (Folk, Rock, Indie, Punk, Metal), Karaoke, student widest range of whiskies in the city, famous discounts, not a place to go for just a quiet drink, it is a place to get drunk and get to know new people. for delicious food, if they don’t want you to enter you won’t enter. UR

14 Well, if you are hungry right now after reading all this staff about food and meals in Scotland there is just one thing to be recommended to you: have a look at the following table as it might help you to nd your way through the Scottish gourmet jungle: angus beef Gourmet beef from Scottish Angus cow banger and mash with mashed potatoes bashed neeps mashed beetroot/turnip black blood sausage cock-a-leekie chicken soup with leek sh soup with smoked sh haggis sheep stomach lled with sheep’s innards, oat and onions ham & haddy smoked haddock topped with ham and cheese hugga-muggie sh-haggis served in sh stomach hot smoked bloater/red herring mince minced meat with onions and gravy vegetable soup with grain from pearl purée from potatoes and onions fried or roasted white sausage, sometimes for vegetarians at oat bread either sweet or spicy black bun traditional fruit cake for (= New Year’s Eve) dumpling typical with and cinnamon fudge soft butter toffee little sweet cake made of our and butter (cheese) cookie made of oat (with cheese) shortbread made of short pastry with a lot of butter; butter coo- kies chippy sh and chips boiled oats with water/milk turnips type of vegetable, a root extremely sweet and gaelic coffee Irish coffee with scotch whisky hotch potch soup with lamb and vegetables neeps beetroot/turnip pie lled pâté venison meat from deer tatties potatoes toddy whisky with hot water and sugar (when someone’s got a cold) 15 laddy and lassie boy and girl loch, lochan lake, small lake muckle, meikle big, tall mercat [mer-kit] market (mercat cross in a town is a monument marking the site of the old market- place) miraculous [mir-rock-you-luss], (to be...) to be exceptionally drunk minginvery unpleasant or of bad quality, also used for describing the weather ned(in Glasgow area) a young hooligan ongoings happenings, events outsider(Glasgow area) rst or last slice of a loaf of often: sausage pinkie the little nger piper a bagpipe player plump a sudden, heavy fall of rain quair a book; word often found in literary works such as A Scots Quair queerie any odd or strange person rood cross reek a smoke, to smoke scooby(in Glasgow) not to have a Scooby about something = to know nothing at all about it skirl a loud shrill sound such as that of the bagpipes slàinte mhath [slan-ja vah] Gaelic toast used especially when drinking whisky; it means “good health” smirr drizzly rain falling gently in small drops steamin (to be…) to be very drunk swally, swallie having a drink of alcohol (e.g. fancy a quick swally after work?) tapsalteerie [tap-sl-tea-ree] upside-down, chaotic, untidy

Tartan a distinctive pattern of coloured lines and bands which cross each other at right angles originated in the Highlands associated with particular clans Thistle the national emblem of Scotland Ùrlar [oor-lar] in bagpipe music it is the basic tune around which a pibroch (piece of bagpipe music) is based; Gaelic word for oor vennel lane, alley (often used in street names) wee small, little, tiny, a bit wynd narrow street or lane, often a winding one, which leads off a larger/more important one wellied (to be…) person who is drunk yestreen last night or sometimes yesterday 41

TEAM: TEXT: Marcel Bartsch Ulrike R. Gesa T. Patricia O. Eva Salomon Willi Kubica Leah Junck

LAYOUT/DESIGN: Willi Kubica WORKSHOP ASSISTANCE Luca Fregonese Rebecca White

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