©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd “All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE PLAN YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT 2 Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions YOUR TRIP to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to 8 Geothermal Rotorua Wellington The À rst thing you’ll notice about Rotorua Voted the ‘coolest little capital in the 3 is the sulphur smell – this geothermal hot 4 world’ by Lonely Planet in 2011, windy spot whiՖ s like old socks. But as the locals Wellington lives up to the mantle by keeping point out, volcanic by-products are what things fresh and dynamic. It’s long famed for New Zealand...... 2 everyone is here to see: gushing geysers, a vibrant arts and music scene, fuelled by bubbling mud, steaming cracks in the ground, excellent espresso and more restaurants per boiling pools of mineral-rich water… Rotorua head than New York, but a host of craft-beer is unique: a fact exploited by some fairly bars have now elbowed in on the action. Edgy commercial local businesses. But you don’t yet sociable, colourful yet often dressed in have to spend a fortune – there are plenty of black, Wellington is big on the unexpected and aՖ ordable (and free) volcanic encounters to unconventional. Erratic weather only adds to Map ...... 4 be had in parks, Maori villages or just along the excitement. the roadside.

3 20 Top Experiences ...... 6 HOLGER LEUE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Need to Know ...... 18 What’s New ...... 20 If You Like...... 21 21 Month by Month ...... 25 If you like Itineraries ...... 30

C i t i e s Extreme H i s t o r y Trekking in New Zealand is urbanised: Activities White NZ history goes back 72% of Kiwis reside in the 16 We’re not sure if it’s some- just a couple of hundred biggest towns, and one-in- thing that has evolved to years, but Maori have lived three New Zealanders lives in lure tourists, or if it’s some- here since at least AD 1200. Auckland. It follows that cit- thing innate in the Kiwi psy- Waitangi Treaty Grounds In ies here are great fun. CoՖ ee- che, but extreme activities the Bay of Islands, where the New Zealand...... 35 shops, restaurants, bars, bou- (skydiving, bungy jumping, contentious Treaty of Waitangi tiques, bookshops, museums, jetboating, zorbing, white- was À rst signed by Maori chiefs galleries… You’re never far water rafting etc) are part and the British Crown (p 146 ) from a live gig or an espresso. and parcel of today’s NZ Dunedin Railway Station More Auckland Sydney for begin- experience. than 100 years old, trimmed ners? We prefer ‘Seattle minus Queenstown Bungy Strap with mosaic tiles and stained- Skiing & Snowboarding the rain’, infused with vibrant yourself into the astonishing glass windows; one of NZ’s most South PaciÀ c culture (p 62 ) Shotover Canyon Swing or Nevis photographed buildings (p 536 ) Wellington All the lures you’d Highwire Bungy and propel Oamaru Historic Precinct expect in a capital city, packed yourself into the void (p570 ) Beautifully restored whitestone into what is really just a very Sky Walk & Sky Jump, Sky buildings and warehouses, big town. Is San Francisco this Tower NZ’s adrenaline-pumping now housing eclectic galleries, pretty? (p366 ) extreme scene permeates even restaurants and artisan work- in New Zealand ...... 42 Bay of Islands •# Christchurch Re-emerging downtown Auckland (p75 ) shops (p 559 ) É from recent earthquakes with Franz Josef skydive If you’re Te Papa Wellington’s vibrant energy and verve, largely due to Icons & Beyond really up for some super-human treasure-trove museum, where the determination and resilience É thrills, this is the highest skydiv- history – both Maori and Southern Circuit of proud locals (p 482 ) AUCKLAND •# ing in NZ, at 18,000ft (p 472 ) Pakeha – speaks, sparkles, É Dunedin Exuding artsy, boozy Waitomo black-water rafting shakes…and is even shaped like

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PAGE UNDERSTAND GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP 637 Learn about the big picture, so you NEW ZEALAND can make sense of what you see

population per sq km where they liv New Zealand Today ...... 638 NEW ZEALAND AUSTRALIA USA (% of New Zealand

63 ≈ 3 people History ...... 640 North Island S New Zealand 10 5 Rest of Environment ...... 650 Today Australia the World 665 Shaky Isles Pause, Engag There’s no denying it, New Zealand has had it tough over the last few In the midst of all this years. It may be a long way away from just about everywhere but it is not on stoically, with the immune to the vagaries of the global economy. In September 2010, just ient in the face of wha as the country was edging out of its worst recession in 30 years, a magni- Throughout Septem n: tude 7.1 earthquake struck near Christchurch, the nation’s second-largest the Rugby World Cup Maori Culture ...... 657 city. The damage was extensive but miraculously no life was lost, partly ing their spectacular km because the earthquake occurred in the early hours of the morning when through foreign eyes. people were in their beds (by way of comparison, Haiti’s slightly smaller beauty of their beach earthquake earlier that year killed more than 316,000 people). thermal regions. Alth While the clean-up was continuing on the East Coast, tragedy struck games (its brand-new on the West Coast when an explosion occurred at the Pike River coalmine its rattled residents co The Kiwi Psyche wth: near Greymouth, sealing 29 men inside. All hope of rescue ended on 24 of the tournament – a The Kiwi Psyche ...... 665 November when a second large explosion ripped through the mine. In the face of all th Then in the early afternoon of 22 February 2011, a magnitude 6.3 to which the avera e What Makes Kiwis Tick? ) New Zealand is like that little guy at school when they’re picking rugby earthquake struck Christchurch. This time the city wasn’t so lucky and ally good time durin teams – quietly waiting to be noticed, desperately wanting to be liked. 185 people lost their lives. Canterbury has barely had a break since then, eager-to-please Kiwis ex eriencing literally hundreds of aftershocks: a 6.3 earthquake killed an an enduring Maori r Then, when he does get the nod, his sheer determination to prove him- elderly man in June; a 5.8 rattled Christmas shoppers on 23 December; tang self propels him to score a completely unexpected try. When his team- and a 5.5 got the new year oՖ to a shaky start on 2 January 2012. is eo le! It is eo le! Arts & Music ...... 670 mates come to congratulate him he stares at the ground and mumbles, Just when it seemed that things couldn’t get any worse, a fully loaded ‘It was nothing, ay’. People born in conta ner s , t e MV Rena, hit the Astrolabe Reef in October 2011 and While NZ is a proud little nation, Kiwis traditionally don’t have time other countries roceeded to leech heavy fuel oil into the Bay of Plenty, leading to NZ’s for show-oՖ s. Jingoistic Á ag-waving is generally frowned upon. People make up 23% worst environmental disaster. As we write, the recovery continues, with of NZ residents. most of the fue tan s raine an a substantial proportion of the con who make an impression on the international stage are respected and Of these, the admired, but Á ashy tall poppies have traditionally had their heads lopped main regions of oՖ . This is perhaps a legacy of NZ’s early egalitarian ideals – the ones that origin are the sought to avoid the worst injustices of the ‘mother country’ (Britain) by UK and Ireland breaking up large land holdings and enthusiastically adopting a ‘cradle (29%), the Pacific Islands to grave’ welfare state. ‘Just because someone’s got a bigger car than me, (15%), Northeast or bigger guns, doesn’t make them better’ is the general Kiwi attitude. Asia (15%) and NZ has rarely let its size get in the way of making a point on the inter- Australia (7%). national stage. A founding member of the League of Nations (the precur- sor to the UN), it ru՘ ed feathers between the world wars by failing to lindly follow Britain’s position. It was in the 1980s, however, that things ot really interesting. Turbulent Decade Modern Kiwi culture pivots on that decade. Firstly, the unquestioned rimacy of rugby union as a source of social cohesion (which rivalled the ’i h ldfdifi

ISBN 978-1-74220-017-0 99625

9 781742 200170 PAGE ON THE YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE 58 In-depth reviews, detailed listings ROAD and insider tips

Bay of Islands & Northland (p125)

Auckland Coromandel Peninsula (p60) (p169) Rotorua & Waikato & the Bay of Plenty the King Country (p288) (p191) Taupo & the Central Plateau (p258) Taranaki & Whanganui The East (p223) Coast (p331) Wellington Region Marlborough (p364) & Nelson (p398)

The West Coast Christchurch (p446) & Canterbury (p480) Queenstown & Wanaka (p567) Dunedin & Otago Fiordland & (p533) Southland (p605)

PAGE SURVIVAL VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO 675 GUIDE HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

es. Bio- er customs Directory A–Z ...... 676 thorities are out keeping out any that may harm NZ’s tural industry. Tramp- ear such as boots and Transport ...... 690 ts will be checked and may ed to be cleaned before eing allowed in. You must declare any plant or animal products (including anything made of wood), and food of Language ...... 699 any kind. You’ll also come un- der greater scrutiny if you’ve arrived via Africa, Southeast Asia or South America. Weap- ons and À rearms are either Index ...... 706 prohibited or require a permit and safety testing.

Discount Cards Map Legend ...... 718 nternational Student tity Card The interna- y recognised ISIC is pro- y the International Travel Confedera- ww.istc.org) me students provides Most principal diplomatic cn da- representations to NZ are in Wellington, with a few

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Charles Rawlings-Way Brett Atkinson, Sarah Bennett, Peter Dragicevich, Lee Slater Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top A green or No payment o recommendation S sustainable option F required

AUCKLAND ...... 60 Coromandel Town ...... 176 TAUPO & AUCKLAND ...... 62 Far North Coromandel . . . 179 THE CENTRAL PLATEAU ...... 258 HAURAKI GULF ISLANDS . . 100 Whitianga ...... 180 Waiheke Island ...... 103 Hot Water Beach ...... 184 LAKE TAUPO REGION . . . . 260 Great Barrier Island ...... 109 Tairua ...... 185 Taupo ...... 260 Whangamata ...... 186 Turangi & Around ...... 273 WEST AUCKLAND ...... 113 Waihi & Waihi Beach . . . . . 187 THE CENTRAL PLATEAU . . . 275 NORTH AUCKLAND ...... 118 Karangahake Gorge ...... 189 Tongariro National Park . .275 Goat Island Marine Reserve ...... 123 National Park Village . . . . .282 WAIKATO & Ohakune...... 283 THE KING BAY OF ISLANDS & COUNTRY ...... 191 NORTHLAND ...... 125 ROTORUA & WAIKATO ...... 194 WHANGAREI DISTRICT . . . 128 THE BAY OF Hamilton ...... 195 Mangawhai ...... 128 PLENTY ...... 288 Raglan ...... 201 Whangarei ...... 130 ROTORUA...... 290 Te Awamutu ...... 205 Tutukaka Coast & the AROUND ROTORUA ...... 304 Cambridge ...... 206 Poor Knights Islands . . . . . 135 BAY OF PLENTY ...... 308 Matamata ...... 209 BAY OF ISLANDS ...... 138 Tauranga ...... 308 Te Aroha ...... 210 Russell ...... 142 Mt Maunganui ...... 315 Paihia & Waitangi ...... 146 THE KING COUNTRY ...... 211 Katikati ...... 320 Kerikeri ...... 150 Kawhia ...... 211 Whakatane ...... 322 THE FAR NORTH ...... 153 Otorohanga ...... 212 Whakaari (White Island) . .326 Doubtless Bay ...... 156 Waitomo Caves ...... 214 Ohope ...... 327 Karikari Peninsula ...... 157 Te Kuiti ...... 219 Opotiki ...... 328 Cape Reinga & Taumarunui ...... 220 Ninety Mile Beach ...... 158 Owhango ...... 221 THE EAST COAST . . . 331 Ahipara ...... 160 EAST CAPE ...... 334 TARANAKI & HOKIANGA ...... 162 Pacific Coast Hwy ...... 334 WHANGANUI ...... 223 Opononi & Omapere . . . . .164 Gisborne ...... 338 New Plymouth ...... 226 KAURI COAST ...... 165 Te Urewera National Park . . 344 Mt Taranaki (Egmont Waipoua Forest ...... 165 National Park)...... 234 HAWKE’S BAY ...... 347 Surf Highway 45 ...... 238 Napier...... 348 COROMANDEL Whanganui...... 240 Hastings & Around ...... 356 PENINSULA ...... 169 Whanganui National Park . . . 246 Cape Kidnappers ...... 361 Thames ...... 173 Palmerston North ...... 252 Central Hawke’s Bay . . . . .362 See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road

WELLINGTON REEFTON & CENTRAL OTAGO ...... 551 REGION ...... 364 GREY VALLEY ...... 457 Cromwell ...... 551 WELLINGTON ...... 366 GREYMOUTH ...... 459 Alexandra ...... 554 KAPITI COAST ...... 389 HOKITIKA...... 463 Alexandra to Palmerston . . 555 Paekakariki ...... 389 HOKITIKA TO WESTLAND NORTH OTAGO & TAI POUTINI NATIONAL WAITAKI ...... 558 Paraparaumu ...... 390 PARK ...... 467 Oamaru ...... 559 THE WAIRARAPA ...... 391 WESTLAND TAI POUTINI Waitaki Valley ...... 564 Martinborough ...... 392 NATIONAL PARK ...... 469 Greytown ...... 395 Franz Josef Glacier...... 469 QUEENSTOWN & Fox Glacier ...... 474 WANAKA ...... 567 MARLBOROUGH & SOUTH TO HAAST ...... 477 QUEENSTOWN REGION . . .568 NELSON ...... 398 HAAST REGION ...... 477 Queenstown ...... 568 MARLBOROUGH REGION . . .400 Arrowtown ...... 587 Picton ...... 400 CHRISTCHURCH & Glenorchy ...... 591 Queen Charlotte Track . . . . .407 CANTERBURY . . . . . 480 Lake Wakatipu Region . . . .593 Kenepuru & Peloru Sounds. . 409 CHRISTCHURCH ...... 482 WANAKA REGION ...... 595 Blenheim ...... 411 AROUND CHRISTCHURCH . . .502 Wanaka...... 595 Kaikoura ...... 416 Akaroa & Banks Peninsula . .503 NELSON REGION ...... 423 NORTH CANTERBURY . . . . 510 FIORDLAND & Nelson ...... 423 Hanmer Springs ...... 510 SOUTHLAND ...... 605 Motueka ...... 432 CENTRAL CANTERBURY . . .514 FIORDLAND...... 607 Motueka to Abel Tasman . . . 435 Arthur’s Pass ...... 515 Te Anau ...... 607 Golden Bay ...... 440 Methven ...... 516 Te Anau–Milford Hwy . . . .612 Kahurangi National Park . . 444 Milford Sound ...... 615 SOUTH CANTERBURY . . . . 518 Doubtful Sound ...... 618 THE WEST COAST . . .446 Timaru ...... 518 Inland & Mackenzie SOUTHERN SCENIC MURCHISON & Country ...... 521 ROUTE ...... 619 BULLER GORGE ...... 448 Aoraki/Mt Cook Tuatapere ...... 619 WESTPORT & AROUND . . . .450 National Park ...... 528 CENTRAL SOUTHLAND . . 621 WESTPORT TO KARAMEA . . 452 Invercargill ...... 621 DUNEDIN & OTAGO . . 533 KARAMEA & AROUND . . . . 452 THE CATLINS ...... 625 WESTPORT TO DUNEDIN & Invercargill to Papatowai . .627 GREYMOUTH ...... 455 THE OTAGO PENINSULA . . 535 Papatowai to Balcutha . . 629 Punakaiki & Paparoa Dunedin ...... 535 Stewart Island ...... 630 National Park ...... 455 Otago Peninsula ...... 547 ia

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glacial grandeur (p469) F e-hiking adventures and Ic SE fs, waterfalls and TASMAN Milford Sound Milford dark cobalt waters (p615) erdant clif Queenstown V °S Extreme sports and 46 °S après-ski indulgence (p568) 42 44°S OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Charles Rawlings-Way Coordinating author; Plan Your Trip, Waikato & the King Country, Taranaki & Whanganui, Rotorua & the Bay of Plenty, Survival Guide English by birth, Austral- ian by chance, All Blacks fan by choice: Charles’ early understanding of Aotearoa was less than comprehensive (sheep, mountains, sheep on mountains...). He realised there was more to it when a wandering uncle returned with a faux-jade tiki in 1981. Mt Taranaki’s snowy summit, Raglan’s point breaks and Whanganui’s raffi sh charm have enthralled. He’s once again smitten with NZ’s phantasmal landscapes, disarming locals and determination to sculpt its own political and indigenous destiny.

Brett Atkinson Christchurch & Canterbury, Dunedin & Otago, Queenstown & Wanaka, Fiordland & Southland On his third research trip to the ‘mainland’, Brett explored Maori rock art, stayed in a historic cottage in the Gibbston Valley, and negotiated a penny- farthing bicycle around Oamaru. Two weeks researching earthquake-damaged Christchurch left him even more impressed with the resilience and determination of the people of Canterbury. Brett has covered ten countries for Lonely Planet, and more than 40 countries as a freelance travel and food writer. See also www.brett-atkinson.net.

Sarah Bennett & Lee Slater The East Coast, Wellington Region, Marlborough & Nelson, The West Coast Raised at the top of the South, Sarah migrated to Wellington at 16 and has lived there ever since, except for various travels and a stint in London working at Lonely Planet’s UK offi ce. During research, she strives to fi nd fault, particularly in relation to baked goods and beer selection. Sarah is joined in this endless quest by her husband and co-writer, Lee. English by birth and now a naturalised New Zealander, Lee’s fi rst career as an engineer has seen him travel extensively around Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and the Caucasus. Sarah and Lee are co-authors of Let’s Go Camping and The New Zealand Tramper’s Handbook. They are also freelance feature writers for newspapers and magazines, including the Dominion Post and Wilderness.

Peter Dragicevich Auckland, Bay of Islands & Northland, Coromandel Peninsula, Taupo & the Central Plateau, New Zealand Today, The Kiwi Psyche, Arts & Music After nearly a decade working for off -shore publishing companies, Peter’s life has come full circle, return- ing to West Auckland where he was raised. As Managing Editor of Auckland-based Express newspaper he spent much of the ’90s writing about the local arts, club and bar scenes. This is the third edition of the New Zealand guide he’s worked on and, after dozens of Lonely Planet assignments, it remains his favourite gig. OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason- 16th edition – September 2012 able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about ISBN 978 1 74220 017 0 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi- © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. Bestselling guide to New Zealand – source: Nielsen BookScan, Australia, UK and USA, March 2011 to February 2012 Contributing Authors Professor James Belich wrote the History chapter (p640 ). James is one of NZ’s pre-eminent historians and the award-winning author of The New Zealand Wars, Making Peoples and Paradise Reforged. He has also worked in TV – New Zealand Wars was screened in NZ in 1998.

Tony Horwitz wrote the Captain James Cook boxed text (p 643 ) in the History chapter. Tony is a Pulitzer-winning reporter and nonfi ction author. His fascination with James Cook, and with travel, took him around NZ, Australia and the Pacifi c while researching Blue Latitudes (alternatively titled Into the Blue), part biography of Cook and part travelogue.

John Huria (Ngai Tahu, Muaupoko) wrote the Maori Culture chapter (p 657). John has an editorial, research and writing background with a focus on Maori writing and culture. He was senior editor for Maori publishing company Huia and now runs an editorial and publishing services company, Ahi Text Solutions Ltd (www.ahitextsolutions.co.nz).

Josh Kronfeld wrote the Surfi ng in New Zealand boxed text (p 53 ) in the Extreme New Zealand chapter. Josh is an ex–All Black fl anker, whose passion for surfi ng NZ’s beaches is legendary and who found travelling for rugby a way to surf other great breaks around the world.

Gareth Shute wrote the Music section (p 672 ) in the Arts & Music chapter. Gareth is the author of four books, including Hip Hop Music in Aotearoa and NZ Rock 1987–2007. He is also a musician and has toured the UK, Europe and Australia as a member of The Ruby Suns and The Brunettes. He now plays in indie soul group The Cosbys.

Nandor Tanczos wrote the Environmental Issues in Aotearoa New Zealand boxed text (p 652 ) in the Environment chapter. NZ’s fi rst Rastafarian Member of Parliament (NZ Greens Party), and the fi rst to enter parliament in dreadlocks and a hemp suit, he was also the Green Party’s spokesperson on constitutional issues and the environment from 1999 to 2008.

Vaughan Yarwood wrote the Environment chapter (p 650 ). Vaughan is an Auckland-based writer whose most recent book is The History Makers: Adventures in New Zealand Biography. Earlier work includes The Best of New Zealand, a Collection of Essays on NZ Life and Culture by Prominent Kiwis, which he edited, and the regional history Between Coasts: from Kaipara to Kawau. He has written widely for NZ and international publications and is the former associate editor of New Zealand Geographic, for which he continues to write.

Thanks to Dr David Millar for his help with the Health content, Grace Hoet for her contribution to the Maori Culture chapter, and all the NZ regional tourism organisations for their help with pre-research briefi ngs. 30

Itineraries

Whether you’ve got 13 days or 30, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

•#Bay of Islands É

É

AUCKLAND •#

É

•# Rotorua É Lake •# Taupo •# Ta u p o TASMAN Tongariro #÷

SEA National Park É

Marlborough Sounds É •#

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É É Wellington Marlborough •#

Wine Region É

•# Kaikoura SOUTH

É PACIFIC OCEAN Christchurch •#

Two Weeks North & South

From top to bottom (almost), this tour gives you a taste of the best of New Zealand. Kick off your holiday in Auckland: it’s NZ’s biggest city, with awesome restau- rants and bars, galleries and boutiques, beaches and bays. Not an urbanite? Head north to the salt-licked Bay of Islands for a couple of days R&R. Tracking south, Rotorua is a unique geothermal hot spot: geysers, mud pools, steaming volcanic vents and accessible Maori culture make for an otherworldly experience. Further south, progressive Taupo has the staggeringly beautiful Lake Taupo and Tongariro Na- tional Park on its doorstep. Try some tramping, mountain biking or skydiving, then hoof it down to Wellington, a hip little city with an irrepressible arts scene. Cross Cook Strait on the ferry (an adventure in itself) and see what all the fuss is about in the Marlborough Wine Region. The hypnotically hushed inlets, ranges and waterways of the Marlborough Sounds are nearby. Swinging southeast, spend a day in Kaikoura, a whale-watching paradise, then cruise into Christchurch for some southern culture and hospitality. 31 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES . er. er. ff . Try to . Try (…ohh, for a dose Fox Glacier Fox Otago Penin- Otago . Further south . Further Dunedin and nding its feet again OCEAN SOUTH fi PACIFIC to explorend half a day fi Bay of Islands of Bay into shape). Get your skates (sauvignon blanc heartland), Napier # • c melting pot. Spend a few days Rotorua Peninsula . If you have time, detour over to. If you have fi É haka Coromandel # • # • É

É WELLINGTON Island # • Waiheke Hawke’s Bay Wine Country Bay Hawke’s Franz Josef Glacier Josef Franz Wine Region #_ Marlborough # • É Coromandel Peninsula # É • Kaikoura # • #

• É ee’s hot, the beer’s cold and wind from the cold and wind from hot, the beer’s ee’s Bay of Islands ff Christchurch . Truck north to the . Truck Hawke's Bay

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# • É Auckland on the East Coast, NZ’s archetypal art-deco sun city. While archetypal art-deco sun city. on the East Coast, NZ’s # • Hokitika Marlborough Wine Region Marlborough Waiheke Island Waiheke Christchurch Wellington Napier &FoxGlacier Queenstown Franz Josef Glacier . Next stop is . Next SEA , get a nose full of egg gas, ogle a 30ft giggle at volcanic mud bubbles geyser, TASMAN Aka the ‘City of Sails’, of Sails’, Aka the ‘City Classy cities, geothermal eruptions, fantastic wine, Maori culture, glaciers, extreme Classy cities, geothermal eruptions, fantastic wine, Maori things, and favourite activities, isolated beaches and forests: these are a few of NZ’s what you’ll a want to see if you’re , jutting abstractly away from the Victorian facades of student-soaked abstractly away , jutting Kaikoura Rotorua Head inland via SH8 to bungy-obsessed Head Swan over to the South Island for a few days to experience for a few the best the south has to o days Swan over to the South Island then jump on a boat/plane/helicopter for a close encounter with a massive marine mammal then jump on a boat/plane/helicopter in Start with a tour through the the West Coast for an unforgettable encounter with Coast for an unforgettable the West catch some live music while you’re in town. catch some live music while you’re to driving back north airport can keep here you or play hopscotch from Hokitika From Christchurch then back to Auckland. after earthquakes the coast road south to the wildlife-rich – followed by the sula politicians generates its own low-pressure system. This is NZ’s arts capital: catch a live band, Thispoliticians generates its own low-pressure system. is NZ’s a poetry a gallery slam, opening or some theatre. the beaches and wineries on and experience a Maori cultural performance (work your cultural performanceand experience a Maori (work shopping, eating, cafes: this is NZ at its most cosmopolitan. drinking and pinging between sure you get on a ferry out onto the harbour Make yacht, and or a of aquatic adventure (dolphins, sailing, yourself on deck), then scoot back south- sunning east to check out the forests and beaches on the in on and cruise down to o here, don’t miss the bottled you’re the chardonnay). Down in the chardonnay). One Month Classics Kiwi 32 RUTH EASTHAM & MAX PAOLI / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN ITINERARIES

» (above) Mt Taranaki (Egmont National

OLIVER STREWE / LONELY PLANET IMAGES © Park; p234 ), Taranaki. » (left) Bridge to Nowhere (p 248 ), Whanganui National Park. 33

Cape •# Reinga É

Bay of SOUTH É Islands •# PACIFIC OCEAN Waipoua #÷

Kauri Forest É É Goat Island

É É Marine Reserve

•# TRIP YOUR PLAN Rangitoto Island

AUCKLAND É Waiheke Island •#•# •# •# •# Karekare & Piha É Whitianga Waitakere Ranges #÷ É Regional Park É

TASMAN Bay of SEA •# É Plenty

Raglan •# É É •# •# É Waitomo Caves Rotorua ITINERARIES

É

East É •# Coast Whanganui Mt TaranakiR River Road •# Napier Auckland Encounter •# •# Hawke's Bay Northern Exposure Whanganui •#

Wine Country

É É

•# Wairarapa Wellington #_

Three Weeks Two Weeks Northern Exposure Auckland Encounter

Three- quarters of New Zealanders live Is there another 1.4-million-strong on the North Island – fi nd out why! city with access to two oceans and Begin in Auckland, NZ’s biggest such vibrant Polynesian culture? city. Eat streets abound: our faves are Auckland – one of the world’s great Ponsonby Rd in Ponsonby, K Rd in New- nautical cities – also off ers stellar bars and ton, and New North Rd in Kingsland. Hike restaurants, museums, islands and beaches. up One Tree Hill (Maungakiekie) to burn Don’t-miss list: check out the Maori and off resultant calories, and don’t miss Auck- South Pacifi c Islander exhibits at Auckland land Art Gallery and Auckland Museum. Museum, then wander across the Domain Heading north, the amazing Waipoua to K Rd for lunch. Pay a visit to the grand Kauri Forest is home to some seriously tall Auckland Art Gallery (with the new exten- (and wide) timber. The rugged tip of the far sion) and the iconic Sky Tower. Ponsonby north is Cape Reinga, shrouded in solitude is the ideal enclave for dinner and drinks. and Maori lore. Take the ferry over to Rangitoto Island, Venture back south through geothermal then chug into Devonport for a meal. Have Rotorua then around the Bay of Plenty to a look at the Waitakere Ranges Regional the sunny beaches of the East Coast. Art-deco Park, Karekare and Piha, then hit the Napier is surrounded by the chardonnay Kingsland restaurants. Have breakfast in vines of Hawke’s Bay Wine Country. Fol- Mt Eden, climb Maungawhau then ferry- low SH2 south into the sheepy/winey Waira- hop to Waiheke Island for some wineries rapa before soaring over the cloud-wrapped and beaches. Rimutaka Range into hip Wellington. Take your pick from activities within easy The northwesterly route back to Auck- reach of the big smoke: snorkelling at Goat land passes through Whanganui (detour Island Marine Reserve, sailing the much- up the joyously scenic Whanagnui River photographed Bay of Islands, ocean-gazing Road), and beyond to epic Mt Taranaki. at Cape Reinga, ogling giant trees at Waip- Hit the point breaks near Raglan if you’re oua Kauri Forest, delving into Waitomo into surfi ng, or go underground at Waito- Caves, surfi ng at Raglan or beaching your- mo Caves for glorious glowworms. self at Whitianga. 34

Bay of Islands •#

É

Icons & Beyond Southern Circuit É AUCKLAND •# É

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Rotorua •#

Ta u p o •# Mt Taranaki R É #÷Tongariro •# National Park Whanganui River Rd É Golden Bay TASMAN •# Marlborough SEA Abel Tasman •#Sounds National Park #÷ •# •# #_ WELLINGTON

Nelson •# É Picton Marlborough ITINERARIES •# Wine Region Aoraki/ É Kaikoura Mt Cook É West Coast •# Christchurch R Glaciers •# ÉÉ •#

•# Banks É

É Lake Peninsula •# É Tekapo Milford Sound É •#

É É Queenstown

•# É Doubtful Sound É •# Dunedin SOUTH É É PACIFIC •# OCEAN Catlins

Four to Six Weeks Three Weeks Icons & Beyond Southern Circuit

Virgin visitors to NZ will want to Winging into Christchurch with check out NZ’s tourist icons, and three weeks at your disposal, there’ll maybe throw in some active wilder- be plenty to keep you entertained, ness experiences for good measure. both urban and wild. Cruise sail-dappled Auckland harbour, ‘ChCh’ continues to rebuild post-earth- then take SH1 north to the winterless Bay quakes. Grab a kick-ass coff ee at a cafe (try of Islands: surfboards, kayaks, scuba gear – Addington Coff ee Co-op), then visit the ex- your choice. Heading south, hold your nose cellent Canterbury Museum or Interna- through the sulphurous sweats of Rotorua, tional Antarctic Centre. The Avon River then hook into idyllic Taupo and some cuts lazily through town – check its fl ow in tramping in the volcanic wilderness of Ton- the Botanic Gardens. gariro National Park. Take SH43 west to City saturated? Drive out to see eccen- New Plymouth for photogenic Mt Taranaki, tric Banks Peninsula and its wildlife-rich then stay up late in caff einated Wellington harbour, then head north for some whale- and watch the nocturnal freak show pass on- watching in Kaikoura. Continue through the wards to oblivion. famous Marlborough Wine Region and Across Cook Strait, launch into some pretty harbour town Picton, and lose a day in sea-kayaking in Abel Tasman National the Marlborough Sounds waterways. Park or disappear into the Marlborough Detour west past artsy Nelson to eco- Sounds. Track down the rain-swept West friendly Golden Bay (more paintbrushes Coast with its iconic glaciers, then head over than people). Southbound, check out the to adrenaline-addicted Queenstown. Mix West Coast glaciers and continue through and match highways to Te Anau for the side ski central Queenstown. Desolate Doubt- road to Milford Sound, then backtrack to ful Sound is mesmerising, while the over- SH6 and head north, swapping over to SH8 grown Catlins are perfectly chilled out. for cloud-piercing Aoraki/Mt Cook, before Back up the east coast, check out Scottish- veering east back to Christchurch, a city on fl avoured Dunedin then detour to the snowy the mend. Don’t miss an afternoon exploring heights of Aoraki/Mt Cook and Lake Teka- the Banks Peninsula, southeast of town. po, before rolling back into Christchurch. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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