FOREVER Tradition and heritage are honoured, but the natural beauty still takes centre stage at ’s most famous lake. Words NADIA BAILEY NEW The hotel doesn’t so much lay claim to A PLACE TO EXPERIENCE the landscape as it gently melds with it. The inside is filled with an exacting A CERTAIN KIND OF assortment of furniture and objects RAREFIED NOSTALGIA, tailored to the sort of traveller who can spot a Brâncuși at 30 paces. The palette ITS CHARMS ARE MANY. is all lumber, walnut and copper, with the occasional flash of emerald, and the air smells faintly herbaceous. The hotel boasts an infinity pool, multiple custom- built wood-panelled Riva boats and a Michelin-starred restaurant. It more than delivers on Lake ’s reputation for luxury — but compared to the ritzy, gilded hotels that have dominated the area, Il Sereno’s earthy, design-led aesthetic is invigorating. Speaking of that Michelin-starred restaurant, Il Sereno’s inventiveness extends to its food offering, too. In Berton al Lago, chefs Andrea Berton and Raffaele Lenzi translate Italian classics into thrillingly modern fare: a ravioli, for example, is made from black rice, black cabbage and razor clams; a pared- back Veal Milanese is elevated with fragrant morsels of candied lemon. Most surprising of all is the ‘minestrone’, not a soup, but a dessert of ultra-fresh fruit and vegetables — everything from curly fronds of oak lettuce to julienned pear to purple potato crisps to juicy segments of fig — which comes plated as prettily as a garden and theatrically drenched in chocolate sauce. A waiter, quizzed on RESTAURANT FOUND on ’s the logic of the dish, explained the chefs only island, Locanda dell’ are interested in creating food that is, can boast many things — seclusion, above all, memorable. It’s certainly that. picturesque views and that actor If your tastes swing towards Sylvester Stallone once dined there — but ambitious small plates, try Materia in its biggest claim to fame is that its menu or Feel in Como, both of has remained completely unchanged since 1947. Whether you which utilise a locavore approach — fish dinedA here 70 years ago or just last week, the meals always begin George Clooney. As a place to experience a certain kind of rarefied from the lake, locally grown herbs — in with a fresh tomato, halved and topped with a whisper-thin nostalgia, its charms are many — but it’s not necessarily a place service of artful gastronomical creations. slice of lemon, continue across five consecutive courses, and you go because it’s on the cutting edge of anything. Even more appealing is Bistrot Figli dei conclude with a shot of sweetened, brandy-laced coffee. The But all that, it seems, is changing. In the past few years, there’s Fiori, a florist-cum-restaurant located food is simple, orderly and pleasant. You don’t go to Locanda been an influx of new establishments that have found a way to on Como’s grungier west side. What it THIS PAGE Take a stroll down Como’s charming dell’Isola Comacina to be surprised. You go because it offers balance tradition with a fresh perspective. Take Torno’s Il Sereno lacks in lake views (none), it makes up narrow walkways. a fleeting respite from the pace of the modern world. Hotel, for example. The brainchild of the Contreras hotelier for in atmosphere: a plant-filled terrace OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT Bistrot Figli dei Fiori; This turns out to be a terrific way of thinking about Lake family and architect Patricia Urquiola, it’s the first newly built resembling a greenhouse proves an ideal ducks floating on the lake. Como proper. At towns all around the lake, trattorias and hotel on the shores of Lake Como in 70 years — but newness aperitivo spot, while in the multiple OPENER, FROM LEFT Village of on ristorantes faithfully plate up Lombardian classics, grand old here does not equal conspicuousness. Its exterior is modern and low-lit, botanically themed dining the Lake Como shoreline; world villas peddle time-capsuled luxury, and the only real boxy, rendered in locally sourced stone, lake-reflecting windows rooms you’re likely to hear the swift Bistrot Figli dei Fiori dish. variable is if and when one might catch a glimpse of Amal and and warm wood, and finished with a tumbling vertical garden. patter of Italian among the guests.

082 VIRGIN AUSTRALIA APRIL 2019 APRIL 2019 VIRGIN AUSTRALIA 083 084 VIRGIN AUSTRALIA APRIL 2019 APRIL the Alps’. The nameis seek a higher vantage not wrong. On a clear day, you can seeright every cafe, restaurant Bellavista may bethe on perfection, there’s out across Comoand choice, but thesmart whimsically referred comeswith viewsso only onethingto do: most popular tourist Spritz on theterrace palatial that it might palatial that it might Como, at an altitude Como, at an altitude sunset and watch as to make themost of to as‘thebalcony of Como- ride time your visit with for thoseseekingto with a view in Lake and you’llfind your of 715metres above the lake turns pink, and bar isdesigned sea level, isthetiny roughly $9, return), point. Overlooking Bellagio, (a bargain at €5.50, somehow improve choice of aperitivo and, on the distant and, on the distant the panorama. But horizon, the Swiss horizon, theSwiss It’s notto difficult golden, violet and and golden, violet finally burnished human cry. A tip: by one, thelights beyondto Torno, family-run affair up the mountain up themountain Balcone sulLago town of Brunate, find an aperitivo spots. Ristorante where anwhere Aperol Como, as almost Como, asalmost Cafè, a modest, come on in the silver, andone make a grown money ison Il seven-minute THE TOP THE Alps. Take the town below. vertiginous Funicolare FROM FROM VIEW

still andblueeternal. water asit stretches out to thehorizon, be this:the weight andshimmer of the shores, Lake Como’s lure will always what trends may behappeningon its green of thehills.Because no matter reflected in the water, the overlapping the slow pace of the journey, the sky into a day though.Sit back andenjoy dock at many of Como’s loveliest towns. cost a handfulof Euros per trip,and which criss-cross the lake all day long, Lago diComo’s battelli (slow boats), stopping choice isto take Navigazione of distracted nonchalance. A lessheart- tend to barrel down them with a kind sheer cliff-faces, and Italian drivers are perilously narrow andedged by but theroads surrounding Lake Como that will take you almost anywhere, worth thetripalone). There are buses through thehillsto meet thelake, is Orrido, a fairytale waterfall which cuts unexploited beauty of (the Nesso sweetly touristy Bellagio through to the shoreline: from stately Tremezzo and small towns that cluster around the might lie with exploring thepanoply of to start,theregion’s biggest pleasure stunningly beautiful all year round. everywhere you look —thelake is backdrop. There is verdant greenery of the Alps form an awe-inspiring easy train ridefrom . The foothills travel timeto find, when in fact it’s an think you’d have to put in someserious overwhelming natural beauty you’d environment itself. It has the kind of dining —itsgreatest asset remains the Lake Comothan just drinkingand pasta —comes strewn with flowers. everything —from thecocktails to the fresh, relaxed and surprisingly light, and This isa local’s hotspot, too. The food is (IN AUSTRALIA).(IN VIRGINAUSTRALIA.COMCALL 13OR 67 89 TOAIRLINES/SILKAIR. BOOK, VISIT WWW. PARTNERS ETIHAD AIRWAYS SINGAPORE AND FLIGHTS TO WITH MILAN ITS CODESHARE THERE GETTING It’s best not to try to cram too much ComoistheobviousWhile place Of course, there’s much more to VIRGIN AUSTRALIA OFFERS

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PHOTOGRAPHY GETTY funicolarecomo.it. 26, Brunate; www.ilbalconesullago.it.26, di Comodi ; www.comacina.it. Piazza Bonacossa, 2,Brunate; www.bellavistabrunate.com. Feel Via Borgovico, 39A, Como; www.figlideifiori.com/bistrot. Lago al Berton Como-Brunate com/property/il-sereno/restaurant. 32, Cernobbio; www.ristorante materia.it. il-sereno. Torrazza 10, Torno; www. serenohotels.com/property/ DETAILS Via Diaz,54,Como; www.feelcomo.com. www.navigazionelaghi.it. Locanda dell’Isola Comacina Via Torrazza,10, Torno; www.serenohotels. Piazza Alcide deGasperi, 4,Como; www. Il BalconeIl Lago sul Cafè Materia Materia Ristorante Bellavista Bellavista Ristorante Bistrot Figli Fiori dei Il SerenoIl Hotel Via CinqueGiornate, Isola Comacina, Navigazione Lago Via Pissarottino, Funicolare Via Via

APRIL 2019 2019 APRIL VIRGIN AUSTRALIA The stunning Sereno Il dish; town-hoppingdish; PAGE, TOP FROM on a battello; a on inside Artfully plated Feel the Sereno Il Hotel. Hotel. Hotel. THIS PAGETHIS OPPOSITE

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