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CITY FOCUS BAYONNE 5 MUST-DO EXPERIENCES Capital of , Bayonne is a beguiling blend of Gascon Public gardens, magnificent architecture, culture and art – you will be spoilt for choice on a city break to Bayonne. To help you create your perfect itinerary, and Basque. Gillian Thornton soaks up the town’s unique atmosphere here is our pick of the five not-to-be-missed experiences in this historic city.

DISCOVER LOCAL CULTURE AT THE MUSÉE BASQUE Visit on Thursday evenings between 6pm and 8pm for free lectures covering everything from Basque music and dancing to film, history and art. See the website for details of temporary exhibitions in 2021. www.musee-basque.com

HAVE FUN AT A FESTIVAL For the full-on Basque experience, join in the Fêtes des Basques for five days of music and merriment at the end of July when locals turn out in their thousands in red and white costumes. Or maybe try the Foire au Jambon in mid-April or the early November chocolate festival. www.bayonne-tourisme.com

TOUR THE CHOCOLATE SHOPS Names to look out for include Darantz (www.daranatz. com) and Cazenave (www.chocolats-bayonne-cazenave. fr) in Rue Port Neuf; ‘cocoa alchemist’ Monsieur Txikola (www.monsieurtxokola.fr) in Rue Jacques Laffitte; Chocolat Pascal on Quai Galuperie; and L’Atelier du Chocolat de Bayonne (www.atelierduchocolat.fr).

MEET THE HAM PRODUCERS Weekday tours and tastings at Pierre Ibaïlde’s atelier des jambons take place at 11am, 2.15pm and 6pm (www. pierre-ibaialde.com). Visit the free Ham Museum at Maison Aubard, run by former rugby professional Cédric Bergez, who retired in 2009 to join the family business (www.charcuterie-aubard.fr) and stock up on delicious supplies at Pierre Oteiza (www.pierreoteiza.com).

Cultural melting pot: VISIT THE UNESCO-LISTED CATHEDRAL Quai Jaureguiberry beside Notre Dame de Sainte-Marie was rebuilt between 1258 and the River Nive in Bayonne, 1450 after the original Romanesque church was damaged by where you will find a unique blend of Gascon fire. Look out for the three lions of the Kings of England on and Basque influences the keystone in the first bay of the nave. The cloister is one of the largest in . www.cathedraledebayonne.com.

ayonne has always been my kind of town – anywhere residential Anglet, the three adjoining towns known simply as B-A-B. Basque country and the surrounding Gascon lands, and explore South of the river had always been Basque country, but Saint-Esprit with a history of delicious cured ham and handmade But Bayonne has a longer and more diverse history, developing specific themes through temporary exhibitions. on the north bank was still part of Gascony and it was here that chocolate instantly puts me in a good mood. But this around three historic districts on the river banks. The areas of Grand The upper floors deal with Basque music, games and traditions, chocolate-making techniques first entered France via Jewish unique town in the south-west corner of Nouvelle- Bayonne and Petit Bayonne lie on the south bank of the , and it’s impossible not to be caught up in the vibrant painting by immigrants escaping the Spanish Inquisition. Jews were first Aquitaine is a winner in so many other ways, proudly separated from each other by the Nive river, whilst Saint-Esprit – the Perico Ribera of villagers dancing the fandango. The image proved so welcomed to Saint-Esprit in the 16th century by Jeanne d’Albret, wearing its label of Ville d’Art et d’Histoire. town’s original Jewish quarter and still home to the synagogue – lies popular that Ribera painted several versions of the main couple in Queen of Navarre and Duchess of Vendôme through her marriage to BPart Gascon, part Basque, Bayonne stands at the confluence of the across the Adour around the Citadel. different settings. You can also get to grips with the Basque sport of Antoine de Bourbon. A passionate religious reformer, she was an Nive and Adour rivers, a short way inland from the sand and surf of pelota, which can be played either against an outdoor wall or active supporter of the French Huguenot movement and mother to the Atlantic coast in the département of Pyrénées-Atlantique. Part of BASQUE IN THE HISTORY fronton, or in an indoor squash-style court called a trinquet. Henri IV of France. the ancient Gascony region, Bayonne is also regarded as the capital of To find out what it means to be both French and Basque, I’d When you leave the museum, you can see for yourself by following French Basque Country, an unofficial land with no official borders that recommend stopping first at the Musée Basque in Petit Bayonne, the signs to the Trinquet Saint-André, converted from a royal tennis COCOA CULTURE straddles the with three Basque provinces in France and housed in an imposing 17th-century property beside the Nive that was court to a pelota court in the 19th century. Soon the fashion for drinking chocolate had spread far beyond the four larger ones in Spain. built to house the family accommodation and warehouse premises of a People have lived in this area since the 1st century AD and, town’s well-to-do to Paris, and Bayonne’s reputation for chocolate put Bayonne has a distinctive Gascon air, with its Gothic-style cathedral wealthy local businessman. Founded in 1924 and recently revamped, in the 4th century, a Roman camp was established on the natural the town on the foodie map. By the mid-19th century, the town and medieval streets, but you instantly notice an extra dimension: the this fascinating museum will answer all your questions on Basque life, promontory between the Nive and Adour rivers. But it was in the boasted more than 30 chocolate makers and today it is still home to dual language signs in French and Euskara, ancient language of the culture and traditions, and much more, putting the rest of the town early 13th century that trade really took off and the town developed. several specialist shops, each with their own scrumptious speciality. Basque provinces; the red and white flags and bunting that personify – and those three provinces – into context. The city prospered as part of the Aquitaine territories that were Wander the historic streets for sweet temptations ranging from all things Basque; and the prominence of the Basque country’s Discover the Basque language and territory in the ground floor acquired by the English crown on the marriage of Henry II and delicious single chocolates to lavish gift boxes, and expand your favourite sport, pelota. Administratively, Bayonne is linked to the rooms, as well as local history from ancient times to the Roman Eleanor of Aquitaine, but in 1451 at the end of the Hundred Years chocolate horizons with a myriad of innovative flavours. Then relax

stylish coastal resort of Biarritz and the laid-back beach lifestyle of occupation. Discover the integration between rural traditions in WIKI COMMONS THORNTON, © GILLIAN IMAGES War, Bayonne swore allegiance to France. over a cup of frothy chocolat mousseux at Cazenave beneath ❯❯

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Clockwise from top left: Musée Basque on the left and Quai Galuperie; the magnificent interior of the cathedral; strolling beside the Nive; inset, head to Les Halles for an authentic shopping experience; enjoying coffee with friends on market day; stalls spill out from Les Halles on to the streets

the arcades of Rue Pont Neuf in Grand Bayonne. Chocolate tours and century, it only acquired its crowning glory in the 19th, thanks to a tastings are just one of many options offered by the Tourist Office follower of restoration enthusiast Viollet-le-Duc, who clearly felt it with expert local guides who can reveal all kinds of hidden gems was lacking something and commissioned the spires. Don’t miss the behind closed doors and in secret courtyards. glorious chapel painted with angels playing musical instruments or Discover the restoration story behind the painted scenes in the the blissfully tranquil cloister. Cathedral. Or perhaps explore the Art Deco architecture and street Walk round Bayonne with your eyes open and you’ll find all kinds of art of Saint-Esprit. The district remained Gascon until 1584 when surprises, large and small. Sections of Roman wall and Vauban Bayonne purchased the rights to the territory to ensure supremacy of ramparts; a Botanic Garden in the Japanese style; and an arena for both sides of the Adour. bull games, concerts and a variety of shows. There are riverside walks Back across the water in Petit Bayonne, a short walk from the and shady parks; a grand municipal theatre; and even a rugby Museé Basque, I picked up some savoury souvenirs from Pierre museum dedicated to the favourite sport of the French south-west. Ibaïlde, one of the town’s most renowned producers of celebrated Wherever you wander, you can feel centuries of French history Bayonne ham. His shop in Rue des Cordeliers is hung with legs of around you, but not just French. Come to Bayonne and you can’t help ham, and foodies can also join a guided visit to learn more about the but experience a unique dual identity – not to mention some of the processes behind this iconic local delicacy. best sweet and savoury flavours north of the Pyrenees! FT

DELI DELIGHTS Bayonne ham is to French gastronomy what Parma ham is to Italian charcuterie: emblematic of both a city and a cuisine. Made from BAYONNE ESSENTIALS free-range pigs raised in the foothills of the Pyrenees, this full-flavour ham is treated with crushed pimentos from nearby – GETTING THERE Fly to Biarritz and catch a bus or taxi (9km); take Brittany France’s only AOP spice – and salt from deep below Salies-de-Béarn Bayonne Ferries from Portsmouth to Santander and drive (248km); in the east of the département. IGP status decrees that the ham must or take the train to Bayonne SNCF station. come from specified breeds and be allowed to mature for a minimum of seven months. Other names to look out for in Bayonne are Pierre WHERE TO STAY Oteiza, who raises pigs at Les in the foothills of the Pyrenees, Gillian stayed at the Mercure Le Grand Hôtel in rue Thiers in the and Charcuterie Aubard, with its free Musée de Jambon adjacent to heart of Grand Bayonne (www.all.accor.com/gb) and enjoyed dinner at the shop, which is well worth exploring. the Hôtel des Basses Pyrénées, set in the ramparts on Rue Tour de You’ll find charcuterie producers and a whole range of other local Sault (www.hoteldesbassespyrenees.com). New for spring 2021, the 4* delicacies at the atmospheric Saturday morning market which spills Villa Koegui Bayonne close to the Musée Basque offers 43 rooms out of Les Halles beside the Nive and onto the streets and bridges. with contemporary décor and a distinctive local flavour (www.hotel- Shoppers stop to chat with laden baskets, and quayside cafés are villakoegui-bayonne.fr). buzzing on what is both an important retail and social occasion. TOURIST INFORMATION Dominating the market stalls are the twin spires of Bayonne Pick up a free highlights guide from the Tourist Office in Place des Basques Cathedral, classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO as part of and visit www.bayonne-tourisme.com

IMAGES © GILLIAN THORNTON © GILLIAN IMAGES the routes to Saint Jacques de Compostelle. Begun in the 12th

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