Add the Crowning Touch to Dainty Tea Gowns

Charming Creations That Add the Crowning Touch to Dainty Tea Gowns

LADY DUFF-GORDON, the famous "Lucile" of London, and foremotl creator of fashions in the world, write* each week the fashion article for this newipaper. presenting all that is newest and best ia style* for well-drewed women. Lady Duff-Gordon's Paris establishment brings her into close touch with that centre of fashion.

A Wonderful "Lucile" Lace Cap Constructed on Lines Which Come Straight from the Moyen Age. The Effect Secured by Wearing- the Chin Piece Above the Chin Rather Than Under Is a Novelty.

One of the Newest "Lucile" Tea Gowns of Why Only Four Out of Real Lace, Pink Chiffon and Satin, with a Little Dutch Every 100 Children Are Quaint Cap. Excellent Students Duff-Gordon HERE are fow things In oar public school sys¬ By Lady tem which cause more trouble, not only to UST where to go for inspiration ie the most an Englishman's * the children themselves but to their teach¬ difficult thing, with no Paris, -where one Derby day trous¬ ers and parentB, than the grading of pupils accord¬ accidentally runs Into all sorts of queer, ers and the ing to the ability they show In their studies. good and amuBing Ideas. Books, of course, veBtee of gray In spite of all tho care that may be used, a great we still have, and alao the theatres and restaurants, satin, with deal of Injustice is undoubtedly done under the but somehow the funny little women with the venr pearl buttons, present methods of grading, and this often has big daring aro not to be found over here. and the black serious results. Many boys and girls leave school The women I find here are ail well dressed and Batln Portia bat long before thoy should either because they are dis¬ in but the little perfect taste; idiosyncrasies that has a band of couraged at not attaining a passing grade or be¬ make one before one and them laugh, adapts adopts baby lamb, which cause they feel they have been given a grade lower are to Paris alone. peculiar is repeated In which are Somehow than that to they entitled. to-day without theae little helpmates of the muff. Black Prominent educators who have been mine 1 find myself at a loss for a moment. I investigat¬ have and white shoes ing the matter find that the giving of grades to been saying, What shall 1 tell? What do most and com¬ they gloves is too valuable a means to certain ends to want? What do I most want? Now I find pupils myself plete this strik¬ think of with it. The should, in your surroundings.I have it walk! dispensing grading ing nx howevor, be much more carefully, Intelligently and Never till I came over here have I eo dress. appreciated uniformly dona than is usually the case. the real use of the tea gown. After a beautiful For Winter Psychology suggests a method of grading which drive In your sliaiV cold, fresh air to come into a there are A Smart "Lucile" sports Street Costume of ought to bo generally adopted. According to a well- home which reminds an English woman of a semi- Black piquant possibil¬ Broadcloth, With Facings known principle, when sufficiently large numbers Turkish bath, her first thought is a tea gown, a ities In a end cap of Black, White and of persons are considered, their ability In general dainty cap, a pretty pair of mules and a beautiful coat of finely Gray. £tack of or In any particular line Is distributed In the form lingerie cushions. knitted black silk and a Bklrt and of the "puttees" of a curve known as With this in my mind 1 picked out a couple of my special snow-proof cloth; also of unrelieved black. bell-Bhaped technically the newest. If, that Is, there be swathed about the waist and probability curve. I \ woman a the base line of this in tailored suit looks Bmart and busi¬ knotted low down on the left a sash of flame- Letting curve represent the hip five of ness-like, in an evening gown triumphant; but in a colored or cerise or orange Bilk of the same fine degrees ability from poorest to best and the toa vortical lines gown her very best.Just a woman, alluring, kpitted variety as the coat, and If, moreover, during the numbers of persons possessing soft and dainty. the swaying, swirling movements of the skater there each degree of ability, it is clear that there is but r small number of Look at the top left hand picture of a young mar¬ comes another flash of color from inner knickers of students with excellent ability, ried woman, her little coatee reminding one of the knitted aflk and matching the sash. a larger number with good ability, a relatively large Dutch, eighteenth century. It is made of real lace ¦ For such skating wear these knitted silk number with medium or average ability, a smaller coats, numoer with sub-medium on pink chiffon, with strappings and pipings of pink and knickers must needs, for comfort's take but passing ability, and satin. Her sake, a still smaller number with distinctly unsatisfac¬ under dress has the quaintest little the place of the warmer cashmere coats and the tory ability. bows of the same pink satin down the back, with fabric breeches, which are better suited to ski-ing There are, of course, no sharp dividing lines be¬ very big tucks of the pink chiffon below. Her little and bo forth. tween these different groups, and any such lines also that are drawn cap Dutch, and though the flaps make it A colored coat, sashed with black and worn with are arbitrary. But when the base appear very big, it is tied a line is divided into five equal steps, tightly around the head black skirt, black cap ami colored puttees, can therefore flvo representing to give a little approximately equal steps of ability, tight, close-fitting outline, of which also provide variety and assured Bmartness, and it the numbers of each 100 students 1 am so very fond. that fall Into each will, of course, be an excellent and economical plan group are approximately as follows: The oap in the opposite corner comes direct from to specialize in one color, and this, for preference, Excellent (A), 4; good (B), 24; medium (C), 44; the Moyen Age. The photograph really describes flame or orange, and then sub-medium (D), 24; failure (E), 4. "ring the changes" with In 100 itself. You must note that the chin piece is worn contrasts of black or grading children the teacher who uses white. this the four best rather above the chin than under. but en¬ method.ranking as "excellent," Another, For the color scheme of each costume muat be the 24 next best as "good," and so tirely different, chin is worn on.will attain a strap with the remain¬ carried out to careful perfection in little de¬ very close approximation of perfect justice. ing tea gown. This is more every cap on the helmet lines, tail, and this means a Of course this principle holds only In the the chin very considerable outlay 1f run. In long strap being square and passing right over you let run any particular class, especially a small the of the head. your fancy riot among all the fash¬ class, tho percentages In the top ionable and Bhades which various groups might The tea gown is made of fascinating are now be slightly different from those given. A teacher blue chenlle, faced with available. cannot apply this flesh color and worn over an principle mechanically, but must chiffon, under dress of Better far to to one learn how to excellent the same £y keep and make a real suc¬ recognize ability, good abil¬ material. cess of it. ity, and so on. For my last I give you a black and white street Another choice.and When grading is incorrectly done the educational costume. The black costume.may be worthily equilibrium of the school is long coat i6 made of black represented by a cashmere disturbed and injustice broadcloth, the sweater (made to pull is done to the earnest and conscientious facings being of black, white and over the head, and juBt laced at The leas student. gray. together the throat), serious the students are the more they cloth skirt and puttees, cashmere cap and gloves, tend to gravitate toward the teachers that give the The sash of black satin holds this very long coat all in some higher grades, and the in w< flame or orange coloring, with injustico that this tends to tight at the waist, ti us exaggerating the big Just the contrast and The Worn work upon tho conscientious student when It relief of black In the long Cap with This Tea Gown >>./- to tho of comes flare of the & fringed sash swathed at the Is on awarding honors and the recommending waist; the boots, too, the New Kolmet Line*, With a Square for positions is obvious. The of The blactyO'd .white check skirt is reminiscent of of course, being black. Chin grades, giving many high .' Strap Passing* Right Over the Top of the Head. furthermore, gives many students a false and exaggerated notion of their ability. *