tip of the tongue Vineyard estate heralds second life

WORDS PETER SCUDAMORE-SMITH PHOTOGRAPHY RODNEY GREEN

THE Prendergast family have been locals in Moffatdale hand selling activity becomes essential. village since the early 1990s. Their establishment borders To Joe Prendergast, this connection the fringes of Lake Barambah, aka Bjelke-Petersen Dam, with his stretch of dirt providing and back into the nearby ridges which support the north- verdelho and semillon wine of precise south rows of grape vines. style and origin is as important as the association of the local aboriginal TODAY, THERE IS A NEW BEGINNING. tribes with their lands alongside Lake Despite the first harvest of grapes in the year 1999, that Barambah, though for millions of inaugural wine production happened nearby in a large years. winery. From 2014, Joe Prendergast, 33, and his A mature or excellent vineyard is a winemaker Nick Pesudovs have commissioned a new sacred cow. Joe lives on his. Beside winery directly on the property in the true concept of the family home is his Irish Tavern and estate production-grown, made, bottled and sold on and he is also the owner of the nearby from the property to keep the connection. Grand Hotel built in 1943 – When I asked Joe to describe the vineyard’s origin his the old one burnt down. reply was, “On the receding shores of Lake Barambah When asked what the future of the during the seventh year of drought, vines were planted on region is and of the ways forward, he an unnamed piece of land on the side of a dusty hill. says: “The future remains in the South Hence the name. Burnett expanding for Dusty Hill to “In 1997 and 1998 we planted verdelho, semillon, merlot, reach its full potential as a premium cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and muscat; during our wine tourism facility. revitalisation phase there has now been tempranillo and “The region’s future lies in providing a viognier (2013) and this year saperavi, nebbiolo and tinta complete experience which will attract cao. The vineyard covers 7.5 hectares.” visitors.” Here, there is a strong emphasis on the wine method. In Joe said the game changed many a world where wine can be made, shipped and bottled years ago with the arrival of the large wine merchants anywhere, to restrict the focus entirely on maintaining and it is no longer sufficient to just have a cellar door. their sense of place at Dusty Hill is commendable. This is “We give visitors an experience which includes alternative the Moffatdale terroir, grapes originating here, nowhere varieties (not readily available), adventurous and premium else, and the only form that crushed berries leave the quality wines, combining this with quality food, property is in a bottle. accommodation and complementary tourism.” The last phase of that story is to communicate the wines’ But, never fear dear reader, this will never be another provenance on the label, by personal selling or via Zoo! website. To distinguish from a buyers’ own brand of For more information visit www.dustyhill.com.au indeterminate origin, sold in a local chain bottle shop, this Joe Prendergast, Dusty Hill Vineyard, Moffatdale.

TOP TWO TIPPLES

■ Dusty Hill Verdelho 2014 (88) 11 per when acidity kicks in early, to exercise its ■ Dusty Hill Semillon 2014 (94) 10.5 the second, both arousing and amazing cent; $19 ; from 16-year- control; taut and angular, capable of per cent; $19 South Burnett; from flavours reflecting the vine age; also the old grape vines; nice pale green colour stretching out far more within a year and 17-year-old grape vines; pale enough to flavour concentration in grapes from this with a flick of emerald green, unwooded still appear extremely young. Cannot be close to water but that is excellent; site looks immense; most outstanding fruit cup aromas, delicate yet capable of think of anything but freshly caught very good winemaking from lessened drink, needs fatty foods to enjoy with the expanding aroma over the next year or whiting or a bucket of prawns to pair up skin uptake; nose of lanolin and green linear acidity coiled up inside the wine. so; taste is contrite, hints of melon and with the wine. Drink 2014-2016. fruits, lemon also; most powerful fruit Drink 2014-2035. grapefruit, currently a tight mouthfeel aromas in the mouth which build by

DECEMBER 2014/JANUARY 2015 SMART FARMER 21