TRAILS

Scottish Natural Heritage is a government body that works to conserve and enhance 's wildlife, habitats and landscapes. We aim to help people better understand and enjoy Scotland's natural heritage THROUGH TIME so that it can be sustained for future generations. IN THE NATIONAL PARK

Forestry Commission Scotland is the forestry department of the Scottish Executive, advising on and implementing forestry policy.

Our mission is to protect and expand Scotland's forests and woodlands and to increase their value to society and the environment.

Set up in September 2003, the is the largest in Britain.

The park is a refuge for a host of rare plants and creatures, including 25% of the U.K's threatened species.

FARLEITTER CRAG TRAIL 3.5kms/1.5hrs ALLT MOR TRAIL 5.5kms/2.5hrs RYVOAN TRAIL 7kms/3hrs 3 TRAILS INSIDE

??4K0404 Barcode ISBN 1 85397 ??? ? A CIP record is held at the British Library. Discover the dramatic story of the Cairngorms Price £2.00 Scottish Natural Heritage. www.snh.org.uk with these pictorial guides to 3 family walks TRAILS THROUGH TIME ANCIENT PEAKS AND MOLTEN ROCK, TROPICAL MOUNTAINS, ICE AGE GLACIERS...the Cairngorms have dramatic stories to tell.

Ancient peaks and molten rock... These mountains have not always looked as they do today...400 million years ago, long before the dinosaurs, they were part of a huge mountain chain, higher than the Alps, that stretched from North America to . Beneath those mountains molten rock solidified into granite.

Tropical mountains... Millions of years of erosion wore down those craggy mountains and periods of warm, wet climate left rounded granite summits and shallow valleys. Today, that ancient rolling landscape can still be seen on the high Cairngorm plateau but elsewhere, the Ice Age glaciers changed things completely.

Ice Age glaciers... Over the last 2 million years, global climate fluctuated regularly and Scotland had up to 18 distinct Ice Ages. In the Cairngorms you can see signs of ice action everywhere. Steep glens and corries, ice scoured rocks and vast heaps of sand, gravel and other rock debris are just a few of the features left behind by the glaciers.

Cairngorms today... Today the Cairngorms are still changing, and frost, floods, landslides, peat formation, and human activity all continue to leave their marks on the landscape.

TRAILS THR GH TIME OU help you fin explores gy of 3 Cairngorms walks guides d clues to re the landscape and geolo . Let the pictorial veal the exciting stories. BULLDOZERS creeping BOULDERS at work SURFING stones

It may not look like it, but in places soil and rocks on the higher slopes are slowly creeping downhill.

In spring, as deeply frozen ground thaws, water is trapped in the Look at the middle part of a scar. What you see is not just stony ALLT MòR soil and the soggy mix carries rocks and plants down the slope. This soil... it's a mixture of rocks and mud left behind by a glacier is solifluction; it's typical of arctic 15,000 years ago. climates. Over the thousands of This glacier came from the huge icefields that covered most of years since the glaciers the at that time. Acting like a monster melted, solifluction has Use our bulldozer, the ice pushed rocks and mud before it, plastering art formed crescent shaped ist's on the mountainsides and leaving mounds and ridges known as impressi lobes on many mountains. moraines. The moraines here could have come from up to nce of th Can you spot any on the to unco ide e Al past. 50kms away, perhaps from the Loch Laggan area. ver ev lt Mòr's icy slopes above?

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ICY KNIFE cuts gorge ath is wn n p sho by O How was this huge gorge formed? To find the answer, we must Mai O O O go back to the Ice Age. DEEP heat 15,000 years ago, a glacier filled Glenmore and every spring and summer a deluge of icy meltwater would have poured from the ice. Over 400 million years ago, This water thundered east along the edge of the glacier, eroding a Scotland was part of a massive deep glacial meltwater channel. But notice the bend in the channel. mountain chain, higher than the Alps. Deep within The edge of the glacier extended east-west so why does the those mountains bubbled the molten rock that was to solidify into SCAR tissue channel suddenly turn north? trickle to the granite heart of the Cairngorms. Feel the roughness of a granite How old are these scars? Most of them are over 100 years old! They At this point the meltwater river, finding a weak point, plunged boulder and look for crystals of its three minerals; are landslips, caused when massive, but very infrequent floods, cut under the ice, cutting a new channel at an angle TORRENT •quartz (clear) into the gorge sides. The last recorded to its original course. •feldspar (pink or white) flood of such a huge size was the Don't be deceived, the Allt Mór, is a truly wild river and after Look for rounded boulders at the • mica (black) Muckle Spate of August 1829. summer thunderstorms or rapid snowmelts it can quickly tops of the scars... that's the Cairngorm granite contains a lot of feldspar and often appears Over time falling stones pile up become a raging torrent. Boulder-moving floods are rare, say bed of the ancient meltwater pink; the Gaelic name for these hills is Am Monadh Ruadh, the red and cover the cut with 'scree', 50 years apart, but every day small stones and sand are river, still visible today hill-range. but this is often swept away by flushed downstream. Over thousands of years, all this material further smaller floods, so the has settled to form a broad alluvial fan, now hidden by forest. scars remain looking fresh.

TAKE CARE! MAIN ROAD.

RISTRUHTIME THROUGH TRAILS

ALLT MòR ALLT

Map by Forestry Commission Scotland. Copyright controller, HMSO-6M-AL-March 2002 HMSO-6M-AL-March controller, Copyright Scotland. Commission Forestry by Map

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Before you start BOULDERS HOW TO FIND THE • This trail follows the Allt Mòr river. Allt Mòr is Gaelic for ‘Big Burn’. There are no Trails Through Time signs on the The boulders scattered around the Allt Mòr hold clues about the past. ALLT MòR TRAIL ground but the gravel path is easy to follow. As you walk pick out some interesting boulders •You can join the trail at several points but most people and do a little detective work... start at the Allt Mòr Car Park, follow the path up to the Ski Car Park and return by the same route. See ‘HOW TO FIND THE ALLT MÒR TRAIL’. HOW LONG HAVE THESE BOULDERS • Allow 2.5 hours for a family to walk the 5.5kms up and BEEN HERE? back, at an easy pace. Our artist's illustration is not New arrivals: the cleanest ones. They've arrived within the last HOW MUCH WATER POWER BROUGHT to scale. five years and are still clean from being trundled and scraped YOUR BOULDERS HERE?

• Don't feel like walking uphill? Catch the bus to the top along the riverbed. Imagine the power needed to move these boulders. The Allt and walk down. (Phone 01479 811 211 for bus times, Old timers: the ones with tiny plants growing on them. They've Mòr in flood is a force to be reckoned with...rainfall intensities or visit www.rapsons.co.uk) probably been in place 20 years or more. Look for coloured of over 40mm per hour have been recorded here, resulting in • WATCH CHILDREN... after the bog wood, the path patches on the boulders. These are lichens. They grow very some of the highest flood run-off rates ever seen in Britain. crosses a main road. slowly and steadily and geologists use some species, for example Rhizocarpon geographicum, as living clocks, to • BEWARE steps and boulders make the path unsuitable estimate how long the rocks have been exposed. for prams, wheelchairs and bicycles. • See Ordnance Survey Landranger map 36 for …AND BULLDOZERS From Aviemore take the road to Coylumbridge and the Ski more detail. Centre. The Allt Mòr Car Park is on the left about 7.5kms from WILD MOUNTAIN TORRENT Coylumbridge and just over 1km after Glenmore Visitor Centre.

Take Care! The Allt Mòr is an unpredictable river. A flash flood in June Start the walk by crossing the footbridge over the Allt Mòr 1956 destroyed bridges and trees and washed away the road and turning right. This is one of the wildest environments in Britain! below Coronation Bridge. You can still find bits of the old road Alternatively, park in the main Ski Car Park and start the walk Let someone know where you are going and always be downstream. from below the information centre. prepared for bad weather, with warm, waterproof clothing, Four years later, on the night of 5 August, it happened again - strong footwear and something to eat. stranding people upstream and delaying the opening of the first Cairngorm Chairlift. After that, in an effort to protect the road, the riverbed was bulldozed to widen and deepen the channel. Allt Mór flood, 1960. Photo: Alasdair McCook Allt Mór flood, 1960. FARLEITTER CRAG

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l e What made the paw print shape of Uath Lochans? It may look as though a giant wolf stepped here but the lochans were really formed by something almost as strange; a massive chunk of ice. At the end of the last Ice Age the climate warmed quickly and within a few decades the huge Strath Spey glacier began to melt and break up, releasing torrents of sediment-laden meltwater every summer.

15,000 years ago

This area would have looked like a watery moonscape, littered with huge chunks of decaying ice, half buried in sand and gravel.

N E The main path is 10,000 years ago sh O W S own by O O O One of these ice chunks ended up where the lochans now lie and its steep sided imprint, known as a kettlehole, became a ROCKS lake of milky coloured meltwater. ICY birth bounce back Farleitter Crag is known as a roche moutonnée, or ‘rock sheep’. 20,000 years ago this area was POWERFUL plants Had you been here 20,000 years ago you wouldn't have seen filled by the Strath Spey glacier, the Crag because this whole area was buried under a glacier Its not just huge ice sheets that change landscapes. Another, one of Scotland's biggest and over 1km thick. Imagine the weight and pressure exerted by that more subtle process is peat formation. Peat is a type of soil made fastest moving at over 30 metres a much ice. The glacier's underside, plastered with wet mud and of partially decomposed plants that builds up in waterlogged year. When it melted, it left polished studded with rocks, acted like a giant scouring pad wearing HITCH hiker conditions. After the glaciers melted, plants began to grow on bedrock, littered with the rocks that had been away the softer rock around Farleitter to leave the distinctive the bare rocky shores of the kettlehole. Gradually soils formed frozen to its base. Today the once smooth bedrock lies cracked in Imagine the power needed to move smooth slope of the Crag's south west face. and the mild wet climate encouraged peat untidy slabs. Look for it on the gentle slope behind the erratic - why is this huge boulder. Glaciers can carry formation. Over thousands of years As the ice moved over the north it all cracked up? rocks like this for thousands of kilometers and when the ice melts they the peat built up, dividing the east side of the hill it froze onto often get left in dramatic positions, far from their origins. These rocks Lift a weight off a sponge and see it regain its original shape. That's original lake into several smaller the rock and then tore chunks are called erratics. what happens to rock once the heavy ice melts; the rock moves back ones. Perhaps in a few more off as the glacier moved up and cracks open. The weight of the ice sheets depressed all of See how the surface of this erratic is criss-crossed by white quartz thousands of years the Uath onwards. Over time this Scotland and even now some parts of the country are still rising. veins and feel how the hard quartz stands out from the rock. The Lochans will fill in completely. plucking action steepened quartz under the erratic doesn't protrude as much, because the rock the side of the hill forming the underneath is sheltered from the elements. steep craggy cliff we see today.

he Lochans. he t what vegetation grew here in the past. the in here grew vegetation what

alking in either direction around around direction either in alking w by l l i i a a r r t t e e h h t t t t r r a a t t S S buried at different depths we can tell can we depths different at buried

and by examining pollen grains pollen examining by and

about 2kms. about is like taking a slice back through time through back slice a taking like is

turn left after 1km. Uath Lochans Car Park is on the right after right the on is Park Car Lochans Uath 1km. after left turn preserved. Drilling out a core of peat of core a out Drilling preserved.

Insh Watersports Centre. Turn right at the junction and then and junction the at right Turn Centre. Watersports Insh and pollen grains are often perfectly often are grains pollen and t. ong footwear and something to ea to something and footwear ong r st

left at Kincraig and follow the road to the junction after Loch after junction the to road the follow and Kincraig at left don’t decompose completely in peat in completely decompose don’t prepared for bad weather, with warm, waterproof clothing, waterproof warm, with weather, bad for prepared

om Aviemore, take the B9152 south. After about 5kms turn 5kms about After south. B9152 the take Aviemore, om Fr er the last 13,000 years. Plants years. 13,000 last the er ov Let someone know where you are going and always be always and going are you where know someone Let

metres thick and has slowly built up built slowly has and thick metres

This is one of the wildest environments in Britain! in environments wildest the of one is This

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The deep peat around Uath Lochans Uath around peat deep The

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easy pace. Our artist's illustration is not to scale. to not is illustration artist's Our pace. easy

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Allow 1.5 hours for a family to walk the 3.5km at an an at 3.5km the walk to family a for hours 1.5 Allow •

beautiful shapes are revealed. It’s under the microscope too, microscope the under It’s revealed. are shapes beautiful

See ‘HOW TO FIND FARLEITTER CRAG’. FARLEITTER FIND TO ‘HOW See Park. Car

seeds and it’s only under a microscope that the unique and unique the that microscope a under only it’s and seeds

Most people start and finish this walk at Uath Lochans Uath at walk this finish and start people Most •

plant species produces distinctly shaped pollen to fertilize its fertilize to pollen shaped distinctly produces species plant

he route up the crag is marked by green waymarkers. green by marked is crag the up route he t

If you only associate pollen with hay fever, think again. Each again. think fever, hay with pollen associate only you If

signs on the ground but the path is easy to follow and follow to easy is path the but ground the on signs

G G A A R R C C R R E E T T T T I I E E L L R R A A F F s s e e p p a a c c s s d d n n a a l l t t s s o o l l o o t t y y e e k k leitter Crag. There are no 'Trails Through Time' Time' Through 'Trails no are There Crag. leitter r Fa

This trail loop takes you round Uath Lochans and up up and Lochans Uath round you takes loop trail This •

N N E E L L L L O O P P Before Before you start you … … D D N N I I F F O O T T W W O O H H

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FARLEITTER CRAG TRAILS THROUGH TIME ICY conveyor belt

Ice melts without trace but glaciers leave marks and here in ath is s Ryvoan we can unravel the story of the last Glenmore glacier by ain p how m n by looking at what it left behind. Like a massive conveyor belt, the e O Th O glacier scraped up and carried a mix RYVOAN O O of rocks and mud along with it. When the ice melted, this debris was left behind as mounds and ridges we call morraines. Scotland has a vast legacy of this type of glacial material; it's used to make tracks and roads all over the country. Take a closer look at some moraine... rounded rocks have been smoothed by ice and meltwater and are from inside the glacier. More angular rocks escaped grinding and were probably carried on top of the ice.

glacial ESCAPE ROUTE

ar The glaciers that carved the narrow funnel of Ryvoan were being

t i s t i pushed from behind by the huge Spey Glacier pressing m

p r e s northwards. Moving at over 300 metres a year, this glacier was s i o n n fast and powerful and little could stand in its way. o t to sc a Imagine the Pass filled with powerful, moving ice, relentlessly le forcing a way through and shattering the rock sides by sheer pressure. Each successive glacier widened and deepened the N channel carved out by its E predecessor and Ryvoan's distinctive U-shaped cross section is the sure sign of W S SURFING trees, a valley cut by ice, not by a river. STRIPY screes

The trees up here lead precarious lives, in fact they've been known to go surfing down the scree slopes. There's constant subtle downward movement of rocks, U se ou vegetation and water on these unstable slopes. Most of the time r a rt there's little visible movement but heavy rain or disturbance can ist r eviden 's uncove ce of Ryv t suddenly sweep chunks of slope downhill, giving the stripy, part impr ion to oan's dramatic pas glacier’s LAST GASP ess forested appearance you see here in Ryvoan. arly inhab its e itants Water trickling through these screes contains very few plant remains; an e of d som that's one reason for the Green Lochan's unusual colour. Not everyone agrees though; old tradition says the colour is due to fairies washing their clothes in the water. Which explanation do you prefer? TELL-TALE ‘tide marks’

Scotland's Ice Age lasted two and a half million years. During that

time the temperature fluctuated and glaciers melted and reformed as 15,000 years ago many as18 times. We know that ice, from the huge Spey glacier to the SW, filled Ryvoan several times and flowed towards . ELEPHANTS Today Ryvoan is peaceful, but 15,000 years ago, as the glaciers hidden SUBWAYS Sometimes the ice covered the top of the melted at the end of the Ice Age, this was a dangerous and noisy Pass, spreading over the surrounding above place. Torrents of meltwater thundered through the Pass, blocks of Glaciers aren't just solid ice, they contain hidden tunnels running hills and scoring level 'tide marks' at ice toppled from the edge of the glacier and razor sharp rocks with huge quantities of water, sand and gravel. Sometimes all this its edges. Look out for these tell- Have you noticed the 'elephants'? clattered down from the cliffs above. At that time the glacier material can even block the tunnel completely. Eventually, when tale marks on the hills above completely blocked the Glenmore end of the Pass and so all the Although there are no records of real the ice melts, a narrow winding ridge of sand and gravel called an Ryvoan; they show the height of meltwater was forced east towards Abernethy. Only when the ice elephants in the Pass, these ones are known and loved esker, is left stranded. The steps down to the Green Lochan are cut the ice at different times in the finally lost its grip on Ryvoan could water flow naturally Which by local people. through an esker. past. way does the water flow today? Imagine standing in the darkness of that icy subway with thousands of tons of moving ice creaking and groaning all around.

RISTRUHTIME THROUGH TRAILS

RYVOAN

Map by Forestry Commission Scotland. Copyright controller, HMSO-6M-AL-March 2002 HMSO-6M-AL-March controller, Copyright Scotland. Commission Forestry by Map

([email protected]) ([email protected]) Swailes Janet : : n n o o i i t t a a r r t t s s u u l l l l I I

Scottish Natural Heritage Heritage Natural Scottish : : n n g g i i s s e e D

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738 458530 F: 01738 458613 E: [email protected] W: www.snh.org.uk W: [email protected] E: 458613 01738 F: 458530 738 01 T:

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HOW TO FIND Before you start

• This trail loop takes you into Ryvoan Pass. There are no RYVOAN PASS 'Trails Through Time' signs on the ground but the path follows the blue waymarkers. From OCEAN •You can join the trail from several places, but most people start and finish at Glenmore Visitor Centre. See ‘HOW TO FIND RYVOAN PASS’. DEPTHS …TO ROBBERS ROAD • Allow three hours for a family to walk the 7km at an easy pace. Our artist’s illustration is not to scale. Believe it or not, Ryvoan's Slowly, in the wake of the ice, vegetation gained a foothold. •The upper part of the trail, with lovely views through dramatic scree slopes Then came wild Caledonian woods and forest animals. ancient pine forest, is narrow and rocky in places. The were once the floor of an lower path is broad and easier. ancient ocean. That • BEWARE... the upper section is unsuitable for prams, ocean closed up 400 wheelchairs and bicycles. million years ago and its • See Ordnance Survey Landranger map 36 for muddy floor was buried From Aviemore, take the road to Coylumbridge and the Ski more details. People followed... the earliest people left few traces and we Centre. About 6kms after Coylumbridge you'll find Glenmore several kilometres deep in Visitor Centre Car Park on the left. the earth’s crust. Down can only guess at who they were, but a flint arrowhead, found high on the Cairngorm plateau, tells us that they hunted here Start the trail from a narrow path that climbs into the forest there, intense pressure and heat cooked and squeezed the over 5000 years ago. The remains of an old limekiln also tell Take Care! behind the Visitor Centre. Turn right at the first junction and ocean sediments into pinky grey schist rock. For millions of walk downhill to take the second track on the left. After about us that people discovered limestone here and probably used years the schist lay buried, but when the glaciers chiselled This is one of the wildest environments in Britain! 1km, this wide forest road becomes narrow and rocky and out Ryvoan's sheer cliffs, it was at last exposed to daylight. it to fertilise local fields. enters the old . After another 1km, the trail Until recent times, Ryvaon Pass was the main route to Let someone know where you are going and always be drops steeply down to the Green Lochan and picks up the Long after the ice melted, rocks continued to shatter and Glenmore; hunters, traders, woodcutters, soldiers and prepared for bad weather, with warm, waterproof clothing, broad track back towards the Visitor Centre. crash down, building these dramatic scree slopes. But the strong footwear and something to eat. journey hasn't stopped for the schist... little by little it erodes countless unknown others have travelled this way. At one back into sand and mud. Today the cliffs have worn back to time, for reasons we can only guess Ryvoan Pass even earned safer, more gentle angles and rockfalls are very rare... stop the fearsome reputation of being 'The Robbers' Road!’. and enjoy the silence.

To walk Ryvoan really is to follow ancient footsteps.