in An Explosion of Design Healthy Winter Activities www.icelandictimes.com Christmas trees adorn squares, illuminating Containing the best articles the surrounding area with their lights. The from all around the country period holds a tradition unlike any other nation. Iceland’s own lads come, Packed with photos, maps and he nights are long; the lights are bright The number of visitors to Iceland in winter is one after another, on a daily basis. You can and the snow is thick. Excited children growing rapidly, as more people realise that it’s see them at the National Museum of Iceland general information gazeT at and sing carols whilst as if they are seeing a new country. and learn what each does. These are not your Colour-coded sections for easy mothers prepare for the biggest festival of Winter activities, from skiing to genial Father but the progeny of the year. The smell of freshly-baked bread snowmobiling to cycling, from health spas to two ill-tempered trolls who failed to instil any reference and reading wafts down the street as the bakers bring out hiking to horse riding, from whale watching discipline in their children. their special Christmas cakes and cookies. On to glacier jeep tours to Northern Light coach Then there is their Christmas cat—bearing QR Codes with each article to the mountains, skiers of all ages thrill to the tours provide visitors with a holiday packed no likeness whatsoever to Rudolf the red-nosed use with your smartphone challenge of the slopes whilst whales jump with inspiration, energetic exercise and both reindeer in either character or demeanour. alongside sightseeing boats as cameras click spiritual relaxation and stress relief. Christmas is celebrated across the country Over 400 pages long on board. All the signs of winter are here. Iceland’s winters are mild compared to much in homes and churches with a lot of joy and Since the Crash of 2008 which devastated of Europe and North America making it more happiness, as is fi tting for the Saviour’s birth. many lives, there has been a strong resurgence enjoyable—a pleasant break from home. New Year’s eve is the biggest party of the of innovation, especially in the area of This winter brings the climax to the Northern year, which many come to enjoy from across design. In one shop alone, 200 designers are Light cycle. Many tour operators offer special the world, with massive fi reworks displays. displaying compared to only 30 just six years tours to see this fantastic phenomenon. There’s Welcome to winter in Iceland and, on ago. The fi eld of design is revealing both great not going to be a better time for years to come. behalf of all the staff of Land & saga, may I talent and innovating use of a wide range of Christmas and New Year are celebrated wish you a very Happy Christmas and both a materials. In this issue we look at designers in with all the energy and gusto of a nation a prosperous and inspiring New Year. all parts of the country. hundred times its size. —Andrew Scott Fortune Contents Christmas All Year Round ...... 4 Unique Handmade Jewellery ...... 28 History Brought to Life ...... 58 Christmas in Iceland ...... 6 The Famous Football Café ...... 29 Deep in Natural Wonders ...... 58 Educative Holidays ...... 8 A Unique Festival Experience ...... 30-31 A Home in the North ...... 59 Christmas with Class ...... 10 We’ll meet in the Pool ...... 32-33 The Northern Playground ...... 60-61 Viking Style Christmas ...... 11 A New Set of Eyes ...... 34 Winter Whale Watching from Akureyri ...... 62-63 The Irish Celebration...... 11 Behind the Scenes ...... 36-37 Baking the Best in Akureyri ...... 64 Spreading the Taste ...... 12 Best way to see the city ...... 38 The Pristine Quality of Winter ...... 65 Harbourside Sushi ...... 12 Gateway to Iceland’s Culture ...... 39 Living His Passion ...... 66 A Changing of the Seasons ...... 13 Tours Tailored to Taste ...... 40 The Entrance to the East ...... 68-69 Enter the Volcanic Café ...... 14 Drive a Superjeep ...... 40 A Class from the Past ...... 70 Reykjavik Art Museum ...... 15 Drive in Iceland ...... 41 Between Mountains and Fjord ...... 70 Cakes, Cookies & Chocolates ...... 16 A Christmas Getaway...... 42-43 Eating well in Höfn ...... 71 A Taste of the Good Life ...... 17 The Land of Health...... 44-45 What is a Geopark Anyway? ...... 72-73 Icelandic Design ...... 18 The World of the Vikings ...... 46 Ásólfsskáli Farm Holidays ...... 74 Where the Designers Display ...... 20 The Grindavík Experience ...... 47 Stay by the Salmon ...... 74 Radiant Jewellery and refl ectors ...... 22-23 The Fisherman’s Friend ...... 48 The Icelandic Pool Culture ...... 75 Stay Warm this Winter ...... 24 The Art of Bacalao in Grindavík ...... 48 Eat At The Source ...... 75 Connoisseur’s Delight ...... 25 Winter Jeep Tours ...... 49 A Taste of Wild and Sweet ...... 76 Inuit In Reykjavik...... 26 The Night Lighting ...... 50-51 Beauty and Comfort ...... 77 Opening The Treasure Chest...... 26 A Very Different Land ...... 52-53 Northern Lights ~ My Passion ...... 78-79 By the Skin of a Salmon ...... 28 Souvenirs with Taste ...... 54 Designed for Outdoors ...... 28 Dine with the Northern Lights ...... 56-57

Credits Icelandic language How to make use of QR codes PUBLISHER LAYOUT & DESIGN ENGLISH EDITOR & PROOFREADER Land & Saga Layout Team Andrew Scott Fortune Icelandic is one of the European root [email protected] languages, like Latin. There is no ‘c’ The Tourist Choice SALES AND MARKETING Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir ARTICLES WRITTEN BY or ‘z’ in modern Icelandic, except in [email protected] Andrew Scott Fortune foreign words. However, It still contains Delphine Briois Anna Margrét Bjarnadóttir [email protected] some letters not found in most other Elín Bára Einarsdóttir Elaine Marie Valgarðsson [email protected] Júlíana Björnsdóttir languages. This basic list provides a EDITOR & GENERAL MANAGER Elín Sigríður Ármannsdóttir Nicholas Cavell [email protected] general idea of their sounds, using Einar Th. Thorsteinsson Sigrún Pétursdóttir [email protected] Erna Sigmundsdóttir Use your QR code reader application on your smartphone or Stefán Helgi Valsson familiar words rather than phonetics. [email protected] iPad to scan the QR codes. QR code reader applications can be Halla Lúthersdóttir Súsanna Svavarsdóttir VIDEO & TV DEPARTMENT Character Pronunciation downloaded free for all makes of smartphones Einar Th. Thorsteinsson [email protected] Vignir Andri Guðmundsson Hrönn Kristbjörnsdóttir á Like ‘ow’ in ‘cow’ Rutenberg [email protected] Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir FRONT COVER PHOTO æ Like the personal pronoun ‘I’ Icelandic Times Sigurlaug Ragnarsdóttir Valahnukur Reykjanes T [email protected] ð Like ‘th’ in ‘that’ h k Olgeir Andresson e o þ Like ‘th’ in ‘thing’ o Síðumúla 1 • 108 Reykjavík Icelan imes B +354 578 5800 dic T The opinions expressed in Icelandic Times do not necessarily refl ect those of the editor, publishers or their agents. Though the [email protected] content of this issue have been meticulously prepared, no warranty is made about the accuracy and completeness of its content. www.icelandictimes.com Copyright © 2012 Land og Saga ehf. All rights reserved Oddi Ecolabelled Printing Co. Available in all good bookshops and tourist centres www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com ne hour . o fro ox m r y p 12 o p u a r

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di erent variations of them. eir mischievous ways, their troll mother and her giant cat provide inspiration for so many imaginative Fast, FreQuent & on schedule C The Holiday Spirit is Preserved A in the Y R Shop items that you can’t  nd anywhere else on the hile some would argue that Christmas planet,” says Anne Helen. every day oF the weeK. has been overly commercialised and e age old tradition of making special For our flexible Travel Agency becomeW too fast and impersonal, the Little deep fried bread, called Laufabrauð, with schedule scan BSÍ Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík OR Authorised by Christmas Shop on Laugavegur Street is elaborate geometric leaf-like patterns has the QR code 580 5400 • [email protected] • www.flybus.is Icelandic Tourist Board living proof that the spirit of Christmas is also inspired some of the local craftspeople. being kept alive by those who cherish it. “Families and friends would gather before e Little Christmas Shop was opened over Christmas and cut the patterns in the  at ten years ago and the owner, Anne Helen, says bread before it was fried and it has since she never gets tired of Christmas, even though become a tradition. e patterns are like experience the shop is open all year round. “I had always the Icelandic wool sweater—uniquely been a bit fanatic about Christmas and over her search for new and exciting items. “I Icelandic,” says Anne Helen. we‘ll taKe a great day ten years ago, I decided to let my dream come regularly scour conferences and markets for true and open my very own Christmas shop. days on end looking for something unique with us! At  rst, I operated out of my garage and the for my store. I try to  nd something that you you there! discover all the magical places not initial response was so good that people started can’t easily  nd elsewhere and my customers all the most exciting to be missed when in iceland: showing up at the strangest times to do some seem to appreciate that. e creative types in places in iceland beautiful nature, multicolored Christmas shopping. en I decided to relocate Iceland have also been very enthusiastic and mountains, fertile farmlands, to the centre of Reykjavik  ve years ago and it frequently contact me with their ideas and stunning views, plummeting has been my second home ever since.” products,” says Anne Helen. waterfalls, natural wonders and geological phenomena.

Specialities in a Small Size Shop Only in Iceland Book now at your reception Even though the shop is, by most e Icelandic holiday traditions are, of course, comparisons, rather diminutive in size, you’d prevalent in the store, as Anne Helen will tell Due to popular demand from both Book now by calling 580 5450 be amazed by the amount of Christmas you. “The Icelandic Yule lads are a unique old and new customers abroad, who’ve items in there. Anne Helen is relentless in heritage and I’m especially proud to have many either heard about the store or regretted Book now on www.re.is not buying enough while they were there, Anne Helen is in the  nishing stages of opening her own web-store.

– Litla Jólabúðin VAG

Laugarvegi 8 • Reykjavík

+354 552 2412 BSÍ Bus Terminal Travel Agency none more details 101 Reykjavík Authorised by www.xmasiceland.is on tours 580 5400 Icelandic Tourist Board [email protected] © Immages Gabriel Rutenberg in our brochures www.re.is OR 4 www.icelandictimes.com © Immages Gabriel Rutenberg 6 seen often candelabras 7light the is Advent of sign Another ribbon. a red and evergreen of an branches with decorated typically and time. on atray same placed are ecandles the at lit are four all until Sunday every lit Advent. the is one more candle ereafter, e  on the lit is candle rst in Sunday rst Christmas. before Sunday one each byone, lit, are WWII. candles efour after Iceland in popular became which decoration, candle Advent the is Iceland in Advent of the signs One of the Advent. called is Christmas before weeks four period The Advent to spend quality time with the family. the with time quality spend to opportunity the but not least, last and, lights Christmas nights, dark long the music, great foods, special of the because year of the time C The Yule Lads Bring Their Own Celebration at Christmas time in Iceland. For most, it is the best best the it is For most, Iceland. in time festive most the Year is New and hristmas became popular and continues to be. to continues and popular became instantly decoration light The Christmas. for them selling and importing started abusinessman after ago decades several popular became arrangements 7 light ese tradition. Jewish the in as not menorahs are these belief, popular to Contrary windows. in www.icelandictimes.com or smoked lamb. After the meal, people meal, the After lamb. or smoked pork, smoked deboned serve others while year, all Iceland in resides which bird ground-dwelling chicken-like ptarmigan—a serve to atradition it is families, some In together. meal enjoy aspecial and gather 6 pm, families At Iceland. in time Christmas 23 (St. Þorláksmessa include: Mass) orlak’s concerts. Christmas to listen to Christmas and Advent the during of worship a place visit Many gifts. exchange and food good enjoy together, come families extended and close year, of the time this At event. family important aan is Iceland in Christmas Christmas 24 25 Year’s Eve) 31 December

th rd th e special family days around Christmas Christmas around days family especial December, Annar í jólum () (Boxing í jólum Annar December, December, Jóladagur (Christmas Day) (Christmas Jóladagur December, December, and Gamlársdagur (New (New Gamlársdagur and December, st December. th is the most special special most the is and branded plastic toys made in China. China. in made toys plastic branded and devices media digital receive rather much granted. for clothing would ey take today children that fact the with do to something has times modern in cat of this existence the Perhaps of clothing. one piece least at get don’t who children eats that cat, Christmas so-called the cat, of ablack tells that legend there’s a Iceland, In time. this until wait to  Children gifts. hard nd it very exchange their character. ey come from the mountains mountains character. the from their come ey later. still family the to added was ( cat) Jólakötturinn e Christmas and century be traced back to the 13 the to back traced be trolls, whose child-eating storybloodthirsty can two Leppalúði, and of Grýla sons mischievous 13 the are Yule lads) (The Jólasveinar eYule Lads the Yule lads can only be traced back to the 17 the to back traced be only can Yule lads the describe which names have eYule lads th century. century. of ehistory th

the 24 the on arrives who snatcher) (Candle Kertasníkir snatcher), (Meat finally, and Ketkrókur peeper), (Doorway sniffer), Gáttaþefur (Window Gluggagægir snatcher), (Sausage gobbler), (Skyr Bjúgnakrækir Skyrgámur slammer), (Door licker), Hurðaskellir bowl eating (Wooden (Pot licker), Askasleikir licker), Pottasleikir (Ladle Þvörusleikir (Shorty), rumbler), Stúfur (Gully Giljagaur (Gimpy), arrives 12 (Gimpy), arrives Stekkjarstaur one, first one The byone. www.icelandictimes.com th December. December. th December. December. comes en on the 25on the shoe. their in potato aplain getting risk  children behaved Badly presents. it with ll just might Yule lad the hope the in shoe regular of a instead night at window the in boot tall put a children Clever shoe. the in left Yule lad the what see upto getting to forward look and bed to going before window their in a shoe present. alittle bring place lads echildren bit on  of money reworks. afair spends family every nearly none as  to improvised second an see to display rework Icelandic. in Áramótaskaup called fashion, scathing but somewhat acomic in particular, in politicians, at take-o fun poking comedy annual ever-so-popular the for television of the front in gather 10 then 8and pm and between   lights, and star recrackers reworks. bon about excited all res, get children the while dinner for gather families evening, early the In midnight. until day the throughout increases o Anticipation holiday. public other any like starts day this people, For most Iceland. in year of the night party Year’sNew biggest the Eve is Year’sNew Eve after Christmas, which is 6 is which Christmas, after e mountains the to back goes Yule lad rst Yule the sleep, children the while night, At If you’re in a town or a city, you can expect expect you’reIf or acity, can you atown in children the with bonfires to go Many th December and all have left 13 days 13 days left have all and December th . – SV 7 theme and some are connected to historical Enjoy artefacts that are no longer present in For those looking for a more thorough modern society. e seventh Yule Lad is thus introduction to Icelandic Christmas traditions, named Askasleikir, a named derived from be sure to check out Terry Gunnel, Professor in his unsanitary habit of licking the inside of Folklore’s lecture on the subject on December 15th. special carved mini-troughs that A more modern Christmas exhibition E used instead of plates when the winters were will be found on the top  oor where dolls so harsh that they had to eat in bed. and puppets of the Icelandic Yule Lads The Christmas house enables people to will be on display. To ring in the holiday see and feel what an Askur is and thus better spirit, Christmas trees from throughout the The National Museum of Iceland is No Ordinary Museum understand where the stories came from. generations will also be on display. th hen people think of museums, fun Holiday Treasure Hunt available until . It is centered On the day before Christmas, (take note and games isn’t usually the  rst thing Ólöf Breið örð, at the National Museum, around finding the Christmas cat, which e Yule Lads are Coming that Icelanders usually celebrate Christmas on thatW comes to mind. e National Museum says that the treasure hunt has been a big is a uniquely Icelandic creature, believed to invite people, and especially children, Starting on December 12th, one of the the 24th) and on December 30th, there will be Hof Iceland however invites its visitors to success since its inception a few years ago. to be the pet of the Yule Lads’ parents— to get a real feel of how the holidays Icelandic Yule lads will make an appearance special events in the museum where you can explore its exhibitions in a special holiday “I was watching the games over the last which devours children who don’t wear new were celebrated before their time. There in the museum at 11 o’clock. According to taste the best of Iceland’s holiday cuisine, while treasure hunt. The traditional Icelandic holidays and it was a real treat to see entire clothes on . will be a traditional smoked leg of lamb Ólöf, this is naturally extremely popular with listening to one of the countries most celebrated Christmas cat has thus been hidden all over families enthusiastically exploring the hanging from the windows, which gives the children, as their appearance is followed singers, Egill Ólafsson, followed by an audio the museum and it is your job to look for clues museum together. We wanted to present Touch & Feel an incredibly thick aroma and traditional by singing and dancing. In addition, when the guided tour through the museum. that take you through Iceland’s rich history the idea that museum visits don’t always A part of that interactive theme is the utensils and related items will be available Yule lads come to the National Museum they –VAG Þjóðminjasafn Íslands towards your ultimate goal. Other holiday have to be silent and purely academic. We Christmas house in the reception hall of to fondle and touch,” says Ólöf. don their traditional garb, instead of the more specialities at the museum include the daily want our guests to be able to have fun while the museum. e house is meant to capture e National Museum’s role is, of course, commonly known red and white costume Suðurgata 41 • 101 Reykjavík arrivals of the thirteen Icelandic Yule lads they’re here,” says Ólöf. the essence of Christmas in Iceland as it was to safeguard Iceland’s heritage and traditions of . Ólöf emphasises the +354 530 2200 th from December 12 onwards, a Christmas The treasure hunt is now available in several hundred years ago and it’s not just and Christmas traditions are, of course, importance of maintaining the authenticity [email protected] house, music, lectures on Icelandic Christmas  ve di erent languages; Icelandic, English, meant to be gazed upon—you can smell not exempt. The 13 Icelandic Yule Lads, of the Icelandic Yule Lads, even though they www.thjodminjasafn.is traditions and food tastings. Polish, French and German and will be and touch the things in it. “We wanted for example, each has his own agenda and weren’t always particularly nice.

8 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 9 will, for the moment, forget you are in the 21st century, as you are transported back in time almost a thousand years. V Enjoy a Feast as S You Step Back C  in Time at Vikingakráin Give them a call to book your dinner, as this ave you ever wondered just what Live it Up, Viking Style is a popular venue year-round. Vikingakráin Viking life was like? Here‘s an You get the feel for the Viking way of life the is located above the Dubliner pub, known as opportunityH for you and your friends to moment you walk in. A longship stretches both the oldest and happiest pub in town. –ASF find out! Set in the heart of downtown almost the full length of the restaurant, Víkingakráin Reykjavik, the home of the Vikings, you will serving as a bar. The wood tables and

 nd Vikingakráin, the Viking restaurant. benches add that air of authenticity to the Naustunum 1 • 101 Reykjavík If you are planning a group event, rough-hewn beams and ceiling. +354 618 0444 incentive tour, conference or meeting, this is For special events, which is what any Viking [email protected] the restaurant that will be talked about long feast is, the actors, poets and storytellers www.vikingakrain.is C Einar Ben’s Christmas Buffet  brings Traditional C Elegance to Eating after the other discussions are forgotten. perform in such enthralling manner that you et in a century-old gentry townhouse drink or two before and after your dinner. right at the end of the walking street Set on the third floor of the building, Sin central Reykjavik, Einar Ben is a classic it provides a warm and quiet place to restaurant for those who enjoy a relaxed meal unwind after a busy day. in elegant surroundings. e restaurant is set Dinners are served in the warmly- in the home of one of Iceland’s most famous decorated dining rooms by a professional poets and heroes, after whom it is named. and discreet sta who enjoy catering to their guests in the calm and quiet atmosphere. meal from the Viking era is something A Christmas Dining Experience The buffet itself is delicious beginning visitors should try at least once in their lives! In keeping with tradition, Einar Ben is with wild mushroom and walnut soup. hosting a Christmas Bu et every evening Then, served on trays laden with small Moving the Mediterranean to Iceland throughout December, bringing the spirit bowls, diners are treated to a constant Speaking of the Mediterranean, throughout of Christmas to the town. stream of di erent  avours—none too large January and February, Einar Ben will The Red Bar is the place to start the or small, just right. First come  sh dishes be hosting a Mediterranean food festival evening—and to  nish it, too, as it o ers a and, perhaps you wonder, “Is that it?”, daily, looking forward to the arrival of comfortable ambience to relax and enjoy a only to see a tray of meats arriving with Spring. e blending of both Icelandic and wonder that The Dubliner is known as di erent lamb and pork plates. Supported Mediterranean ingredients will provide a the happiest pub in town. by a choice of good wines, the experience is very delicious combination, heralding the Christmas, New Year and The Dubliner‘s Birthday What with Christmas, New Year almost complete—until the riz à l’amande, freshness of Spring, as the daylight hours T  I C  and a birthday to boot, The Dubliner is soaked in cherry sauce, with a selection of rapidly grow longer in the new year. he world knows how much the Irish love doing when they raided Ireland and brought celebrating all December, culminating in Christmas cookies and petits fours adds the The restaurant opens daily at 6 pm, to celebrate. Any excuse for a party and all the beautiful women and the Dubliner the biggest blast on New Year’s Eve. ere’s  nal touch to the whole experience. with the exception of the special lunch on someT good drinks with friends. Christmas pub with them to Iceland. no better time to drop in to  ll your heart December 23rd, when it opens at noon. and New Year give the perfect excuse for with happiness and the rest with good drink. –ASF a good night out – every night. When you –ASF Traditional Viking Dinner Einar Ben e Happiest Pub in Town Dubliner Tradition is an important part of add that it’s the Dubliner’s birthday, the Cold beer, smooth Irish whiskey and

Icelandic life and, at lunch time on the Veltusundi 1 • 101 Reykjavik celebration becomes a wee bit longer. plenty of Celtic music, live every night Naustunum 1 • 101 Reykjavík rd 23 December, Einar Ben is hosting the +354 511 5090 The Dubliner has been a staple part of is guaranteed. Lubricate an Irishman +354 618 0444 centuries-old skáta and salted cod—the [email protected] Rekjavik for many years now, well known and you get a lot more – story-telling [email protected] famous Bacalao that is so popular in www.einarben.is for its Irish hospitality, music, drinking to stretch the imagination and plenty of www.dubliner.is Mediterranean countries. This unusual and fun. e Vikings knew what they were laughter, as the poets wax lyrical. It‘s no

10 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 11 S  You Can Enjoy Authentic   Thai Food T In Reykjavik or Akureyri he discovery of the wonderful  avours in years, Icelanders had grown accustomed to a genuine ai food only reached Iceland rather bland diet, so the introduction of ai inT 2001 when, down by the Old Harbour in cuisine had a major impact. a cosy, small white building, Krua ai  rst Icelanders have a reputation for started the taste revolution. For hundreds of pioneering and they plunged into this new taste sensation with gusto. A second  sh and vegetable soups served with freshly restaurant opened in Bæjarlind, near the baked bread are offered. Try the smoked Smáralind shopping centre, also providing salmon on toast, or the always fresh ‘catch home deliveries. Take away also gained great Krua ai’s cuisine is unique as it blends of the day’,  shed right from the waters of popularity and now you can  nd the same authentic Thai cooking with all its special Faxa ói Bay. A steaming bowl of plokk skur, delicious menu in Krua Siam in Akureyri, spices and ingredients imported directly from a traditionally Icelandic  sh stew, is just the close to the harbour. With prices set so that ailand with Icelandic meats and vegetables. thing to warm you after an afternoon of a whole family can eat for less than a single As the food is prepared to order, it reaches whale watching at the Old Harbour. person would pay in fancy restaurant, you you with all the  avour as fresh as possible. Café Haiti is great place to do some can understand its popularity. It has proven a popular spot for visiting ai ‘people watching’, for it´s as popular with tourists for good reason. e ai-Icelandic Welcome to the enticing and inviting Café Haiti tourists as it is with Icelanders. You might blend is a delicious experience. A C      S even spot a well known Icelandic celebrity n autumn, when the weather inevitably croissant or two, for this is one of the few or two while you’re at it. Enjoy! –ASF –EMV Krua Thai starts cooling down, Café Haiti serves as places in the downtown area that opens for Café Haiti oneI of those cosy, unpretentious places where breakfast—8.30 am to be precise. ere is Tryggvagötu 14 • 101 Reykjavík you can pop in to warm your toes and enjoy also an enticing array of home baked cakes Geirsgata 7a • 101 Reykjavík +354 561 0039 an excellent cup of co ee from beans roasted and pastries should you feel the inclination +354 588 8484 [email protected] every morning right on the premises. Here for a little something sweet. kaffi @cafe-haiti.com www.kruathai.is you can start your day early with a hot latte The laid back atmosphere is also a www.cafe-haiti.com or cappuccino, along with a freshly baked favourite with locals for lunch—quiche,

16 Seaters / 250 euro 9 Seaters / 200 euro Jeeps 4X4 / 150 euro Small Cars / 75 euro

City Car Rental Renault Master Toyota Hi-Ace Suzuki Grand Vitara Toyota Yaris • Kia Picanto Located in downtown Reykjavik Hyundai H1 Santa Fe Aygo • Daihatsu H Sushismiðjan–Midori, a Top Class S  Restaurant at the Old Harbour We are a professional car rental service located right in the centre of Reykjavik. n one of the bright green buildings down Whether for business or leisure, we have at the old harbour is Sushismiðjan, a just the car to fi t your needs and budget. bright and busy sushi restaurant. Bookings can be made directly with us or I through your hotel’s front desk. We will Serving a range of tasty sushi dishes be there to pick you up and drop you off with sake, wine or beer, this is a very sushi cannot be beaten for quality and  avour or you can also drop off the key at your popular eating and meeting place. —and its presentation is top class. hotel’s reception. To ensure that you get what you really want, reserve ahead Sitting on the patio on a cool autumn day, The menu offers Makis, Nigiris and of time online. Tour around Iceland and enjoying a delicious sushi and the view over the Sashimis, along with a mixed vegetable sushi enjoy Icelandic hospitality. harbour to Mount Esja across the bay, this is and different children’s dishes. Japanese Snorrabraut 29 • 105 Reykjavík +354 771 4200 the life! For freshness, the harbour is the place noodles with chicken, vegetables or Tiger [email protected] www.citycarrental.is to be. e combination of Icelandic  sh and prawns,  sh or miso soup, seafood or beef salad round out the main courses. For desert, there is chocolate cake with cream, ice cream and fresh berry smoothies. The restaurant is open from 11:30 am to 11 pm. Take-away meals can be ordered by phone or on the web. They cater for companies, parties and lunches, too.

– Sushismiðjan ASF

Geirsgötu 3 • 101 Reykjavik +354 517 3366 [email protected] www.sushismidjan.is

12 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 13 RWhere It All Started A M lthough Iceland is a young nation in e Kjarvalsstaðir museum is dedicated terms of art history, you’d be surprised to permanent exhibitions of Kjarval’s toA discover the quality and unique character of works, a sizable portion of which he Iceland’s  nest artists. Reykjavík Art Museum donated to the city of Reykjavík before his offers the chance to experience the best of death, as well as exhibitions of paintings, classic and contemporary art in Iceland in one sculptures and design by established enlightening day. e museum is situated in Icelandic and international artists. three different buildings in the city centre: Hafnarhús, Kjarvalsstaðir and Ásmundarsafn, each with its own theme and character.

e Must-See Display Those wondering who the stately gentleman staring at you from the 2,000 krónur bill is and EFeel the Shakes   and Tremors V of Earthquakes andC Volcanos where the unique imagery comes from, would be well advised to visit Kjarvalsstaðir, home Erró, The Grand Children of Mao, 2007 hat is it like living on a small island a  lm about the eruption in the Westman to Iceland’s most beloved painter, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, Mountain Milk, 1941 where eruptions occur on average Islands in 1973. The second one, ‘The Kjarval (1885-1972). While it is hard not to be the Mediterranean, the domed buildings everyW four years and earthquakes of various Volcano Island’, by the Icelandic  lm maker inspired by Iceland’s colourful landscape, few Get With the Times of the Middle East, and the pyramids of sizes occur daily, is a question Icelanders are Jón Sigfússon, is a documentary on the have managed to capture its essence and tie it so While Kjarvalsstaðir covers the more Egypt. Ásmundur’s sculptures can be found frequently asked. An island where ice and Eyja allajökull eruption in 2010, nominated securely into the Icelandic psyche as Kjarval did. conventional forms of artistic expression, surrounding the house and on the inside,  re are constantly battling, moulding and for the 2011 Emmy Award for outstanding Among the dozens of celebrated paintings Hafnarhúsið has the liberty to experiment making a magical land inspired by Icelandic reshaping the island’s appearance and the location cinematography. you’ll find now on display the exquisite and take on ambitious projects with landscapes, literature and its people. islanders’ mood and emotions. The only The Westman Island documentary Fjallamjólk, which scholars contemporary artists from all over the world. reply we can give is: We wouldn’t know how contains unforgettable footage from the 1973 claim has contributed more to the Icelandic Hafnarhúsið has six different galleries All in One Day to survive in a country which is not alive. eruption which started without warning in identity than any other painting, making it devoted to the most exciting current e famous landscapes of Iceland are well But if you are curious about the reality of the middle of the night on January 23rd. an absolute must-see and worth the trip to happenings, one of them being dedicated to known and easily accessible, but only the Icelandic life-force, enter the Volcano e entire population—over  ve thousand Kjarvalsstaðir by itself. a permanent exhibition of the works of Erró, through the eye of the artistic mind can one House, a café in the centre of Reykjavík individuals—were evacuated by boat to the the acclaimed pop-artist who has donated fully comprehend their signi cance to the and experience for yourself the impact of an Icelandic mainland where they stayed until over 2,000 works to the museum. nation‘s identity, making it an unmissable eruption or an earthquake while enjoying a the end of the eruption seven months later. Being located close to the city centre in an part of your discovery of Iceland. Reykjavík cup of tea or co ee, or munching on a slice e documentary contains truly dramatic intriguing building and due to its ambitious Art Museum o ers its guests a chance to of cake or homemade bread. and unforgettable footage. An exhibition from the ground undertakings, Hafnarhúsið has become a do it all in one day with their museum day Volcano House is no ordinary café. It is The Eyjafjallajökull eruption caused A large collection of semi-precious rocks centre of sorts for the creative arts in Reykjavík. passes. What really makes it an outing also a cinema and a museum, specialising millions of people to be stranded across and minerals from around the country worth your time is that it also gives you in the tremors and shakes, the colours, Europe due to thousands of flights are also on display and are available for e Hidden Pearl the chance to experience the culture of the smells and the touch of living in this being cancelled over several weeks. This purchase. Volcano House o ers guidance Probably the least known of the three Reykjavík while you stroll between the strange, remote corner of the world. documentary contains some breathtaking and information throughout the exhibition buildings is Ásmundarsafn, which is quite museums and relax in their coffee shops Volcano House’ in-house cinema o ers aerial views and footage and is truly a gem. which is particularly interesting for school remarkable considering that it is dedicated where patrons of the arts spend their time. two back–to–back documentaries. First up, Additionally, Volcano House offers a groups and students of geology. Volcano to the wonders of one of Iceland’s foremost You can even get souvenirs and informative hands–on geology exhibition where guests House occupies an enviable location in the sculptors, Ásmundur Sveinsson (1893-1982). books to commemorate your day. can handle various samples of pumice, ash heart of Reykjavík, with large bay windows The museum is housed in a unique Look out for Reykjavík Art Museum’s and lava from Icelandic volcanoes. overlooking the colourful old harbour. It building, designed mostly by the artist programme of upcoming exhibitions at their is open seven days a week from 10.00 to himself, who sought inspiration from website, www.artmuseum.is –VAG 22.00. e documentaries in English can Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17, 101 Reykjavík be viewed hourly from 10.00 to 21.00. German language commentary is available for groups or private screenings. –SS Volcano House

Tryggvagata 11 • 101 Reykjavik +354 555 1900 [email protected] www.volcanohouse.is –## Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata, 105 Reykjavík Ásmundarsafn, by Sigtún, 105 Reykjavík

14 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 15 the presidential residence weekly and occasionally dining in-house. Úlfar Eysteinsson and family bought the restaurant in 1989 and opened in the very last days of the beer prohibition. Úlfar kept the peculiar name, a name with dual reference to a long trench coat and the previous owners, two Frenchmen and a Frenchman’s wife.

Þrír Frakkar með Úlfari is truly one ABringing T French and  Icelandic   cuisine G together in L  Þrír Frakkar of Reykjavik’s hidden gems where fine n a little corner in the little big city in the Specialising in fresh fish and known dining and Icelandic family values come North is a small haven for the food lover. for his superb skills in creating rich together in a feast for the palate! –JB BehindO the beautiful rouge exterior of Þrír  avours and a tender texture to seafood, Þrír Frakkar Frakkar með Úlfar is a romantic dining room, Úlfar has earned a reputation as one of

small and intimate, like a French bistro in the Iceland’s most skilled chefs, marrying Baldursgata 14 • 101 Reykjavik Parisian Saint Michel, yet rich in Icelandic local traditions and  ne French cuisine. +354 552 3939 heritage through chef Úlfar Eysteinsson’s Úlfar’s list of prestigious clientele is long [email protected] C,Celebrate Christmas C with Mosfellsbakarí  C  artful fusion of French and and President Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson is www.3frakkar.com ne of the major highlights of the year, named after one of Iceland’s famous using primarily fresh Icelandic produce. a regular customer, ordering take away to when families strive to be together volcanoes but with exquisite taste and moreO than at any other time is, of course, appearance. Those tins look as if they’re Christmas. Advent builds up the excitement caviar—and the little chocolate balls inside for the children as the day draws closer. look like it but certainly don’t taste like it. en, like a tidal wave of family fun, the The pralines, a long-time favourite, each celebrations begin. Tables, lit with candles,  lled with a di erent  lling, coming also are laden with delicious pastries, cakes and in beautifully packed boxes, a welcome gift Take Time for a Drink and Snack cookies, savoury delicacies on different to any chocolate lover. If you relish this time of love and giving, kinds of bread to tantalise the taste buds. you’ll feel right at home in the bakeries. It’s ey don’t last long! en, in the lounge, the e Best of Baking as if Hollywood’s Christmas classics are being chocolates appear. Little wonder so many The bakeriesat Háaleitisbraut and the played out here. e smell of freshly baked In Reykjanesbær, In Reykjavík In Reykjavík look forward to this time of year! shopping centre in Mosfellsbærare laden bread draws you in. You feel like a child again. Keflavík, Garðastræti 6 Álfabakka 12 In Akureyri In Reykjavík with delicious breads, pastries, sandwiches e shelves are packed with crisp loaves, with Hafnargata 50 at Mjódd and much more almost every day of the year, pastries, cakes and everything that brings Hrísalundur 1b Charity shop open Eyjaslóð 7, Chocolates for Kids and Connoisseurs weekdays 13-18 At Mosfellsbakarí, Ha iði, the International but Christmas is special. Here come the rich back happy memories. You have time for a Charity shop open by the harbor Charity shop open Tue - Fr i 11-17 Charity shop open Tuesdays, Wednesdays Chocolate Ambassador, brings out his fruit English Christmas cakes and hot chocolate or coffee together, enjoying weekdays 13-18 Phonenumber: 561 3277 Phonenumber: 421 7090 Charity shop open and Fridays 13-18 latest handmade creations alongside the bread, the delicate, crispy laufabrauð, the one another’s company in the comfortable weekdays 13-18 (open Thursdays old favourites. The ‘golfballs’looking decorated biscuit houses and all the delights couches or chairs, surrounded by the warmth & Hertex- Phonenumber: 462 4433 from 20.December!) like the real thing but made with white that make the Christmas meals distinctive. of the Christmas displays. Which pastry or lukkupotturinn Phonenumber: 858 5908 Phonenumber: 844 6188 chocolate covering a delicious filling. e decorated candles, also, take on a new biscuits to choose is oh, so hard—and those Vallargata 14

Now, the volcanoseach totally di erent, meaning at this time of year. chocolates, well they would never last till Open Thursdays 13-18 Christmas Day, would they? You’ll just have and Saturdays 12-17 to get some more closer to the date! –ASF Mosfellsbakarí

Háholti 13-15 • 270 Mosfellsbæ +354 566 6145 Get a Bargain and Make a Difference by Supporting [email protected] www.mosfellsbakari.is the Salvation Army’s youth and welfare program!

Hjálpræðisherinn • Kirkjustræti 2 • 101 Reykjavík • 552 0788 • [email protected] • www.herinn.is 16 www.icelandictimes.com Designed to be Tax Free Joy from the creative roots ne of the greatest advantages to shopping 3. GET YOUR REFUND Airports he identity of Icelandic design is in had to create beauty and enjoy making nation was relieved to be rejoined with its in Iceland is that visitors can reclaim the Credit card Refund • Kefl avik - Landsbanki the materials, the Nordic forms and clothes, shoes, accessories, toys, furniture, beautiful heritage; to be able to find new taxO back, thereby getting designer goods for a Insert your credit card number on the Tax • Reykjavik - Information desk patternsT from the Saga age, along with pottery and tools. One can simply go to approaches for old ideas, use old patterns substantial discount—not to mention today’s Free form and mail it in an Iceland Refund • Akureyri - Duty Free Store modern ideas and innovation. Icelandic the National Museum to see how the for modern pieces of clothing, accessories, currencyI exchange rate that is very favourable envelope for a direct refund to your credit card. Egilsstaðir - Mailbox D designers use resources from fish skin islanders tolerated their isolation. It was pottery, toys and tools. • compared to pre-2008 levels. to lamb skin, fish bone to wool, silver their journey from darkness to light. Icelandic designers are quite eco- Cash Refund Ships to glass, lava rocks and natural stones, After the second Wold War, the Icelanders conscious. They work wonders from How to shop Tax Free: ree easy steps: Have the cheque refunded in cash by one of • Cruise ships: Our agents meet major recycled metal, porcelain and wood for were eager to join the Western World and recycled materials and prefer material our agents where you leave Iceland. cruise ships before departure. If not, get carving. Handicraft has always thrived for some time the heritage was generally provided by Mother Nature to express their 1. SHOPPING a customs stamp from Icelandic customs quite well in Iceland. frowned upon as being un t for the modern creativity, with the Icelandic sheep wool Make your purchase where you see the Prepaid Refund o cers on board and mail the forms in an When walking through the centre of culture—but it was not forgotten. Even being the favourite, by far. Their pieces Iceland Refund sign and simply ask for a Get your refund prepaid, before you leave Iceland Refund envelope. Reykjavik, the capital, one cannot but during the feminist era, the women would are designed to last a long time and quite Tax Free form at the register. the country, at the malls. en simply put • Smyril Line - Seyðis örður: Agents from wonder at the sheer number of designer be seen knitting during meetings, whether a number of them have already become your forms in the mailbox departure hall in Landsbanki are on board before departure. and handicraft stores and galleries. And political, cultural or educational. classics—such as the Icelandic ‘lopapeysa’ 2. CUSTOMS VERIFICATION Ke avik airport or mail it from abroad in indeed the Icelanders are exceptionally The joy of creating returned with a sheep wool sweaters and cardigans. If the refund amount on a single Tax Free an Iceland Refund envelope. Prepaid refund creative and love their heritage. The likely vengeance after the financial crisis in So, when in Iceland, look for the beautiful form exceeds ISK 5.000.- You have to show •  e Information Centre: - Aðalstræti 2 reason is their way of life for centuries, 2008. Suddenly, all those who had used designer wares. ough most designers sell the goods to customs when leaving the How to get your refund closed-in on their farms by darkness their creative talents on mere gifts for their products to shops in Reykjavik, you country and verify export with a customs e places where you can get your refund in Shopping Malls and forces of nature for months during families and friends, dared to show their will most surely find designer shops and –SS stamp. is does not apply for woollen goods. Iceland are as follows: • Kringlan or Smáralind: Information desk. the winter. To make it bearable, they products to the world. In general, the galleries all over the country. 18 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 19 W Kraum has the Widest   Range D  of Icelandic Designer D  Products ith 200 designers exhibiting their in the distinctive newly-renovated building work, Kraum is the largest centre for on Aðalstræti. From the outset, it was decided IcelandicW designers in the country. It is  tting to promote only the work Icelandic designers. that they are housed in the oldest building e concept took hold and very quickly, in Reykjavik, where Skúli Magnússon, the the number of designers from all over the the run-of-the-mill mass-produced plastic first Icelandic Governor to be appointed country swelled to reach today’s figure products here. Rather, there is a fascinating by the King of Denmark and known as the of over 200. With so many designers in world of unique ideas, concepts and designs ‘Father of Reykjavik’, established the  rst one place, visitors can not only get a clear which make really nice gifts for all ages. design studio and factory for manufacturing overview of the Icelandic design world, but Of course, many of the designs not Icelandic products in 1750. have the widest range of products to choose speci cally produced for Christmas also make Kraum was formed 6 years ago when a from. It is indeed a wide range, covering excellent gifts as the whole house is a treasure- group of thirty designers displayed their ideas everything from clothing to jewellery to trove of the di erent and unusual. e quality household products to lights. The list is of the designs on display is outstanding. far too long for an article of this size and a Practical and attractive fashion items abound, Our Master Watchmaker catalogue of everything available would  ll made by designers who recognise the need for a good-sized book. comfort in style and practicality in daily life. never loses his concentration Whether for Christmas, birthdays, Christmas Gifts anniversaries or simply love gifts, these With his legendary concentration and 45 years of With the season of giving here, Kraum is designer creations are bound to be greatly exhibiting a special range of Christmas items, appreciated and admired. The world of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned a number of which have won design awards Icelandic design is a vibrant and constantly craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single and competitions. You will not  nd any of changing one, with new ideas appearing timepiece before it leaves our workshop. regularly. Kraum is where you will  nd the cream of the crop. ey can also be purchased online and shipped internationally. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in –ASF Kraum Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials

Aðalstræti 10 • 101 Reykjavík are used to produce the watches and every single detail +354+354 517 517 7797 7797 has been given the time needed for perfection. [email protected] www.kraum.is The quantity of watches produced is limited, giving them an exclusive and truly personal feel. www.jswatch.com 20 www.icelandictimes.com JRStay beautiful and Safe in the Dark   with Tíra’s Refl ective Jewellery he Canadian born mosaic-artist, around an arm, leg, scarf, bag or rucksack— birds. All Tíra’s accessories are available at one making their own leaf. Alice created Alice Olivia Clarke, has found a way and they became instantly popular. ere the National Museum, National Gallery, the centrepiece a 3 metre high mosaic Celtic toT make Icelanders visible during the long, are short bands and long bands and even Epal (also at the Keflavik International cross, in the form of a tree and each of the dark winter days. With the traditional Icelandic men are happy to wear them. Airport), and in the Icelandic design store, leaves have been added to its crown. This re ective adhesives insulting the least bit of But Alice’ creativity was not  nished. Not Kraum, in the centre of Reykjavik. community project can be found in the vanity, men and women have refrained from by a long shot. e next item was a beautiful community hall of Hafnar arðarkirkju— sticking them on their overcoats. Which, by necklace, long enough to wear over any jacket, From the Family to the World Hafnar örður church. the way, is quite unfortunate as black is a coat or parka, with re ective buttons on each e Tíra’s aim is to combine the traditional Her installations can be found in several favourite colour in Iceland. end hanging down front and back and thus with the contemporary, focusing on Icelandic places in Iceland. In her studio in On a dark winter‘s day four years ago, Alice making the one wearing it quite visible. All material where possible. Only the re ective Hafnarfjörður, she gives courses and wondered at all the black-clad people and the accessories can also be worn as beautiful thread and the buttons are imported. seminars to teach her craft to Icelanders

decided there must be a way to make beautiful jewellery. Everything is made from Lopi and Actually, the whole concept is quite the who are always ready to learn a new do-it- Images by © Gabriel Rutenberg re ective accessories men and women would be re ective thread, not just on the surface, but family affair, as Alice’ husband, architect yourself craft. From Alice, they learn to happy to wear. And she found a solution. throughout. All the  owers are crocheted, all Kári Eiríksson, co-designs and their daughter make their own mosaic creations: mirrors, handmade and the knitted bands are machine makes the box illustrations. tables, candleholders and hotpads. A Flower Blooms into a Whole Range knitted by the Icelandic knitting company, Tíra is already exporting the radiant When in Iceland be sure to look for Tíra – It started with a flower, a completely Glofi. The bands inside the knitted cover accessories to the Netherlands and Alice has Radiant Accessories when buying gifts for family handmade  ower, made from the Icelandic are re ective, so is the leather on the end. All a long list of countries wanting to buy her and friends back home. e beautiful pieces will wool, Lopi. To begin with, Alice and her the buttons on Tíra’s radiant accessories are extraordinary products. “ is little idea I had make your loved ones visible in the dark. mother-in-law made them, but due to recycled and it takes several metres of re ective is certainly blossoming,” says this married –SS Tíra demand they had to add two more knitters thread to fasten them onto the  owers. mother of two, who is presently working

to the group, all working in Alice’ studio. on another of her mosaic installations in Gunnarssund 5 • 220 Hafnarfjörður Women were happy to add the radiant Where to Find em Hafnarfjörður. She has worked on this +354 697 6111 flowers to their overcoats, but the men e result is beautiful quality accessories. e newest piece, aptly named ‘ e Tree of Life’ [email protected] were still very much in the dark. So, the latest product is multi-coloured necklaces, for over three years along with nearly three www.tira.is next product was a band that one can circle based on the colour of indigenous Icelandic hundred, thirteen year-old children, each

22 www.icelandictimes.com 23 C’Hand-made knives by Palli are treasuredD  across the world patient treatment. In this case, he wrapped arefully carved out of diligently it in plastic and for the next 6 years, he daily A Living History researched and prepared materials, pricked a tiny hole in the covering to let just Álafoss is also a virtual museum. Built in 1896, oftenC rare and always unusual, Palli’s knives a bit more air in to dry it. Had he done it it was here that the Icelandic woollen industry are now found in at least 85 countries of faster, it would have splintered and crumbled SÁlafoss’ wool W keeps you warm   and dry–just W like the Icelandic sheep began and  ourished. e mill itself has closed the world. When he makes a special knife, to dust. Such is the thought and care applied celand is known for its ferocious winter who enjoy knitting themselves, balls of but the building now houses the Álafoss store. there can be quite a competition to own it. to each individual material that each handle storms. Generations of Icelanders have yarn, knitting accessories, patterns and ere are looms, pieces of machinery, vintage- stands out as carrying the touch of a master stayedI warm, dry and comfortable wearing everything associated with making the style cash registers, original early phones and Born from enthusiasm craftsman, a quality much sought–after. woollen clothing from the sheep that roam clothing, are available in the shop. examples of equipment used to make the Palli started carving knife handles over 25 the mountains in this wild country. Icelandic original company the powerhouse that drove years ago as a personal hobby. He enjoyed Custom or catalogue—all are unique wool is noted for its special qualities. It has Icelandic society for so many years in the 20th finding unusual materials to create the Because each knife is hand made, it is a a virtually waterproof outer layer and a soft, century. ere is a small café which overlooks handles and took delight in carving each unique creation. He does have a catalogue warm inner layer. e clothes are warm and the waterfall that started it all. one carefully to match the individual blades. but the images are just samples, as no shower-proof. is makes them especially It is the kind of store where you can relax knives are completely identical. He loves comfortable and suitable for all weathers— and browse, enjoy the ambience and  nd those Under the blade he will blend di erent materials together the challenge of experimenting with new unlike many wool clothes that end up a special gifts and personal items that are so rarely Visit his workshop and you will most likely to form a composite handle that, when materials. A 65 year-old dentist drill is heavy, sodden mess when it rains. found in Europe or the rest of the world.  nd yourself seated right under a collection carved, will be unique. A horse’s hoof, a pressed into use for intricate carvings. ey Just 20 minutes from Reykjavik lies the of blades magnetically held to a bar on the reindeer’s antler, a goat’s horn, a hippo’s can be ordered online or, in Iceland, can Made in Iceland, Found in Álafoss town of Mosfellsbær on the road to the north. ceiling above you. None has fallen yet! A tooth, elm, fossilized wood, ebony or even be found at Brynja, the handyman shop on All the woollen clothing to be found in There, after passing under the two bridges true craftsman, he always chooses the best di erent Icelandic stones—these are but Laugarvegur 29, Reykjavik’s main shopping Álafoss is made in Iceland from Icelandic you will find a roundabout. Most traffic blades, sourcing them from as far away as a few of the materials he uses to create street and at his workshop in Mosfellsbær. It’s wool, ensuring that you can find these continues straight but if you turn right, you’ll Pakistan. Others come from a blacksmith a handle. Whilst most are found within worth the 15 minute trip there (from down authentic qualities you are looking for. immediately see the red-roofed building of in Denmark. Factory made blades come Iceland’s shores, his search also takes him town Reykjavik) to see the environment Today, the clothing ranges from traditional the old mill, built next to the álafoss or ála from Norway, Sweden and Germany. ey to many di erent parts of the world. from which he draws his inspiration in his to high fashion. Many young designers have waterfall, from which the mill took its name. are either made from  ne Damascus steel, workshop next to the Álafoss waterfall. taken the Icelandic wool to create a whole –ASF stainless steel or single high carbon steel: –ASF Álafoss Wool Store e Patience of a Master Palli the Knife Maker new range of designs and colours, which which keeps its sharp edge the best. Sometimes, materials will require special gives plenty of choice for men, women and Álafossvegur 23 • 270 Mosfellsbær treatment if they are to last and that can Álafossvegur 29 • 270 Mosfellsbæ children alike. You’ll  nd them at Álafoss +354 566 6303 Nature’s provision take time. Some woods need to dry slowly +354 899 6903 alongside a stock of the traditional designs [email protected] What is special about these handles? Palli or they will split. Others, such as the [email protected] that have become a fashion statement www.alafoss.is loves to wander the countryside, looking fossilized tree he pulled from the water that www.knifemaker.is in themselves the world over. For those for new materials for his handles. Often, was turning into brown coal, need more

24 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 25 IAn Exclusive IStore Rwith a Rare Collection n 1998, Kulusuk Art was established Furs, Skins and Trolls in Greenland, opening in Reykjavik, Among their merchandise are arctic fur Iceland,I in February 2007. Named after and fashionable seal skin products such Kulusuk village in Greenland, this beautiful as stylish bags and shoes, along with the store, located at Laugavegur 15, specialises attractive Greenland national costume. in authentic Inuit art. e store is bright and Exceptional skin rugs, custom made knives, spacious with a very attractive setup. The troll sculptures and nature collectables from choice of products shows impeccable taste. both Greenland and Iceland are on display. ese are items de nitely not to be found elsewhere in Reykjavik. Customers can truly enjoy the spirit of a Greenland adventure. Even with a variety of Icelandic collect- able items, this unique store, Kulusuk Art, does not sell mass produced Icelandic souvenirs to their customers but prefers the fur and leather hats, gloves and scarves that exclusiveness of careful selection. should be able to ful l any customer’s wishes. Working with the Feldur fur company, Outstanding, adventurous and inviting, Kulusuk Art also has a wide range of beautiful Kulusuk Art is truly one of a kind. –SP Kulusuk Art

Laugavegi 15 • 101 Reykjavík +354 551 1080 [email protected] on facebook

O  A Master Craftsman T  Creates WorksT of Art in Precious C  Metals óra Guðbjört Jónsdóttir is one of in Reykjavík. Her expertise is national artist, she has always striven to put national Iceland’s  nest and most productive costume jewellery, or  ligree, a delicate kind crafts in a new context and associate her goldsmithsD using, with great understanding, of jewellery metalwork, usually of gold and designs with modern trends which combine the ways of Icelandic masters before her time. silver. Outstanding skills can be seen in her the artist’s desire to experiment with a Between 1949-53, Dóra started learning the superb work, honouring Icelandic tradition. thorough knowledge of templates and trade at her father’s workshop, gaining her Dóra likes to work with very old jewellery patterns of the past. Master’s degree in 1954. Additionally, she templates, often well over 100 years old. –SP Gullkistan studied at Tärna folk high school in Sweden She has always actively participated and Konstfackskolan in Stockholm around in exhibitions, both nationally and Frakkastíg 10 • 101 Reykjavík 1950, graduating with honours. internationally, and served as a chairman +354 551 3160 Dóra took over her father’s workshop in of the FIG (Icelandic Goldsmiths [email protected] 1970 and relocated it, opening her company Foundation) from 1974-75, being the  rst www.thjodbuningasilfur.is called Gullkistan, on Frakkastígur street Nordic woman to take that position. A true

26 www.icelandictimes.com fish-skin leathers. Over the years, however, she’s built a repertoire of salmon-skin  asks, jewellery, and purses that only continues to grow in quality. Her trademark patterns include  sh-skin leather  owers and, inspired by a period she spent living on the East coast in Höfn, bags that reminded her of the waves.

A Master at Work In Gudrun’s new location in the Dyngja store at Suðurlandsbraut 10, visitors can Favourite Foods for Travellers see a master at work. e leather-working Sitting down amidst all this glory, customers tools, salmon skin and sewing machines The Litla Kaffi stofan is a Mecca for Football Fans and Food Lovers can truly enjoy the high quality traditional are all present, and Guðrún is happy to T  F F  C Icelandic food Litla Ka stofan o ers. No less demonstrate the beautiful process that n the Ring Road between Reykjavík Flags and other memorabilia are also than 37 different servings of smörrebröd— transmutes  sh-skin into Icelandic fashion. and Hveragerði, Litla Kaffistofan’s displayed, sent from towns and countries homemade bread with thick layers of salmon, Gastu’s products are available in their atmosphereO has authenticity and warmth in all over the world. Europe’s best known herring and other ingredients, their famous workshop, in stores throughout Iceland and welcoming its customers which has, over the teams flags are hanging there—some even meatsoup (kjötsúpa) and pankakes are online. When flying with Icelandair, you years, since opening in June 1960, received autographed. Brazil and South Africa have available. Put that with steaming cups of hot can purchase Gastu’s  sh-skin  asks in the about all possible awards for excellent sent their native football flags and the fame chocolate or rich co ee and travellers will head BGastu’s   Creative SLeather Work  is the WorkS of a Master Saga Shop on board the plane. customer service. of Litla Ka stofan has even travelled all the back on the road energised and refreshed. –NC –SP efore entering the world of leather while carrying her  rst child, Guðrún set Gastu way to Munich, in Bavaria, where an article Litla Kaffi stofan design, Guðrún Ásdís Sturlaugsdóttir o to America to purchase the leather stock Football History from Near and Far regarding this extraordinarly collection was imaginedB a life in civil engineering, of a closing business. Within a few more Suðurlandsbraut 10 • 108 Reykjavik Packed with football memorabilia, this published in the local sports paper. is winter, Suðurlandsvegi •110 Reykjavík sketching and constructing. After months, her talent had lines of customers +354 867 6604 remarkable place has walls  lled with photos they plan to put up glass walls facing the road +354 557 7601 graduating, however, she was struck by a queuing in downtown Reykjavik. [email protected] from Icelandic football history dating from outside the Litla Ka stofan containing more none wild insight—why not air her creativity When she started in 2008, Guðrún www.gastu.is the early 20th century, even including collectibles of football history, in cooperation www.leit.is/servefi r/litla by crafting leather? Within months, and only made bags and simple earrings from several generations of families. with Samverk glass factory in Hella. Fjörukráin D ith a truly original approach toO Customers can  nd Kusk Collection A Viking village, set in the the usual outdoor gear, KUSK at Jólaþorpið, e in heart of Hafnarfjörður, Collection,W established in Reykjavik in 2011, Hafnar örður, where the opening hours Fjörukráin consists of two displays both ballsy, beautiful and unique are on Saturdays and Sundays from 13-18 restaurants, where you will products. An artist by nature, founder and from 13-22 on the 23rd of December. be served and entertained Hrönn Sigurðardóttir designs from either Also at Jólabærinn, Ingólfstorgi open by Viking-clothed staff. hand felted or moss stitched Icelandic wool, daily, 12-18 from the 14th of December, There is also a modern hotel leather or fish skin. Hats, ear and hand then 12-23 on the 23rd of December. and 14 Viking cottages, with warmers, amazing shawls that are extremely all modern conveniences. popular and even decoration for boots! KUSK Collection +354 618 8188 [email protected] Strandgata 55 • 220 Hafnarfjörður +354 565 1213 [email protected] www.fjorukrain.is

Uuðbrandur Jósef H Jezorski and his Creating Collections J in Contrasts daughter Tina are highly esteemed Guðbrandur and Tina combine a fine SG Textil goldsmithsG known for their exceptionally craftmanship, enhancing the contrast designed jewellery where they make use of between the main elements of the Designer Sigga creates beautiful products Icelandic stones, lava, precious metals and Icelandic nature. made from wool and silk, decorated with various other natural materials. From their collection, customers can fi sh leather. Outlets are in Kjósarstofa Lavaland choose from rings, necklaces, beads, Ásgarður and at Kleppsvegur 128, Handmade jewellery proudly made in Iceland. Family Partnership 104 Reykjavík. Melted lava from Eyjafjallajökull glacier The father and daughter partnership, brooches and pins, all equally stunning is combined with silver to make simple, run from a small gallery in the centre of and unique. outstanding and unique jewellery. Kleppsvegur 128 • 104 Reykjavík +354 8963 361 Reykjavik, has gained great recognition for Guðbrandur Jósef Jezorski Nesvegur 17 • 350 Grundafjörður +354 777 0611 www.sgtextil.is their exclusive handmade jewellery. +354 552 3485 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.lavaland.is

28 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 29 A U

A Windy Weekend and Iceland Airwaves escribing the Iceland Airwaves music e festival o cially started on a Wednesday festival is not something that can and, walking down Reykjavík’s main street of beFD done simply in terms of the enormous Laugavegur, music could be heard from most supply of quality music, as it represents cafés, bars and shops and by the time you E  a complete departure from the ordinary, reached the centre you would have seen or where community, culture, people, partying, heard about a dozen shows. One other thing networking, freedom, fashion & music are you’ll notice is that the people on the streets are fused into one incredible long weekend in the in a special festival mode—everyone is wearing heart of Reykjavík city. highly fashionable clothes, in high spirits and The concerts are held in various venues seems to be connecting with each other much around Reykjavík and despite the especially more than on an average Reykjavík night on harsh winds this weekend it always seemed the town. as exciting to move around and see what was It almost never fails that the people you going on in the other side of the centre. e meet have just come from an ‘amazing’ show supply of music is staggering, bands and artists in some obscure, weird venue with a similarly of almost every conceivable genre are counted obscure artist—and they can’t wait to tell you “We had known about Iceland Airwaves “I’ve known about the festival for at least “Iceland Airwaves is out of this world. in the hundreds. Some of the concert venues about it. After a few hours in the festival, you’ll for as long as we can remember and 10 years and have always wanted to You meet all these weird and wonderful were centered around loosely based themes, so soon see why and get caught up in the mood. fi nally decided to come this year. So far come. I’ve been a fan of Icelandic music people; you meet old friends and make you could go to see gentle acoustic music in an After stumbling in on a folksy band in the it has been fabulous, the atmosphere for a long time and have found there is a new friends. I’ve been talking to people old church, experimental neo-classical music in backyard of a downtown café, I couldn’t wait is great and we are having a lot of fun. certain joyfulness that is contrasted by a from places that I haven’t really paid much an old theatre, hard rock in a smoky bar, artsy to tell everyone about the concert, so that fellow This building, Harpa, is phenomenal, certain quietness, almost like the contrasts attention to before but they know our bands in a museum or DJ sets in downtown festivalgoers would have a chance to see them but we also love going to the smaller between spring and winter. The festival is music, which is amazing. We also enjoy clubs. The main venue, however, was the later during the weekend. venues. Yesterday we saw ‘Of Monsters great, it reminds me of a colder South by the off-venue programme as it gives us striking new Harpa concert complex, where The festivalgoers are a strange mixture of and Men’ in a bar with about 200 people Southwest, a music festival held in Texas. an opportunity to play to a different crowd hundreds of bands played by the harbour. people from all over the world and each one which was pretty amazing. The range of The atmosphere is really enjoyable, I’ve and the people who didn’t get tickets get But amazingly enough, the festival is not all comes to Iceland for a di erent reason—some bands playing is quite staggering—this been going around town to these smaller a chance to experience the festival. We about the o cial concert schedule—although come to see speci c artist (this time around, afternoon we hadn’t quite decided what venues and talking with the people and I played in a small bar yesterday which was it is a big part of it—as there are literally Sigur Rós & Of Monsters and Men seem we wanted to see and we counted around feel as if I could move to Reykjavik and be a lot of fun, almost like a giant house party.” hundreds of o -venue concerts held in the most to be in the highest demand), some come to 20 shows we wanted to go to.” part of the community instantly.” unimaginable places, including the smallest  nd something new and others come for the —Kristján Páll Kristjánsson, bassist, concert hall in Iceland—a single tiny room nightlife. But they all seem to unite around a —Jennifer & David Parmenter, Boston. —Mai Le, Photographer, San Francisco Of Monsters and Men located in the middle of a square. singular theme—to have a good time. –VAG

30 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 31 Great place to meet the locals Laugardalslaug–the most popular swimming pool in Reykjavik Swimming pools and hot tubs are an W’     P important meeting place for local people wimming in one of Reykjavik’s seven choose from ranging in temperature from 37°C New at the pool in 2012 of all ages. Many of the most frequent so. Most people leave their towel behind and four times a year by independent health swimming pools and the unique Ylströnd to 43°C. e largest hot tub in Laugardalslaug A saltwater hot tub just opened in visitors come to the pool  rst and foremost in a special area near the showers while and safety inspectors. The clean natural Sgeothermal beach is very invigorating. The swimming pool has space for 50 people. Laugardalslaug. It is the first one of its to socialise rather to exercise. ey typically they go into the pool. Bath robes and geothermal water and regular inspection pools, which are open all year, attract nearly kind in Iceland. The saltwater comes from come to the pool on a certain day of the sandals are hardly ever seen around pools ensures the highest water quality possible. 2 million visitors and for a good reason! Enjoy Reykjavik’s most popular pool a drill hole near the sea on the northern week and time of day when they know but people with long hair are expected soaking in the warm water originating from a Laugardalslaug Olympic size swimming side of the Reykjavik peninsula, about one their friends are there, too. Because nearly to wear a shower cap. Be considerate to Laugardalslaug opens at 06:30 in the morning geothermal drill hole within the city limits. pool is the largest and most popular pool kilometre from the pool. The saltwater is everyone in Iceland enjoys going to the other swimmers. Try not to swim in a and closes at 22:00 at night on week days in in Iceland. Originally built in 1968 and cold when it comes from the ground but it pool you might bump into Iceland’s most lane with faster swimmers so they won’t summer. Saturdays and Sundays it is open from since renovated periodically, it was visited is heated to 40°C. Children love the new famous singer, the mayor of Reykjavik, pop have to overtake you. When it looks like 8 in the morning. The price in 2012 is 500 kr. for Cool like a pool adults and 120 kr. for children under the age of Reykjavik’s swimming pools are definitely by 750,000 people in 2011. The main pool wipe-out style ‘iceberg challenge’ which stars, TV-personalities, actors, members of you’re going to swim into a person you’re 18. Disabled and senior citizens go free. cool—as in hip. e water in the main pool has several 50 m lanes for casual swimming, consists of a mesh of ropes overhead parliament, university lecturers and students. supposed to veer to the right. is about 29° Celsius / 83° Fahrenheit which exercise and competition. ere is an indoor and iceberg-like floats in the water. The –SHV Laugardalslaug is quite comfortable. In warmer countries pool for training and competition, a children’s challenge is to walk on the icebergs over Pool etiquette Great water quality people jump into the pool to cool o —here in pool with slightly warmer water than the main a distance of 7 m without falling into the It is considered very important to shower e water in Reykjavik’s swimming pools Sundlaugarvegur • 104 Reykjavík Iceland, it is exactly the opposite. You want to pool, 3 children’s water slides, a wipe-out-style water. Finally, the tallest waterslide at naked and wash thoroughly before is of the highest quality. It comes from +354 411 5100 jump in to keep warm! e children’s pool is challenge, 7 hot tubs of various temperatures Laugardalslaug swimming pool has been entering the pool for hygiene reasons. drill holes in three di erent areas, in and [email protected] even warmer than the main pool and if that is and a steam bath. In addition, it is possible to revamped and now has LED-lights in the Visitors who don’t conform may have one near Reykjavik. e quality of the water is www.swimminginiceland.com

© Gabriel Rutenberg not warm enough, then you have 7 hot tubs to order a massage prior to your visit. ceiling for a part of the ride. of the sta , or even guests ask them to do inspected four times a day by the pool sta

32 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 33 Enjoy

C a relaxing holiday

M Y in Laugar Spa ASee YourN Dream SHoliday Through E Refractive Surgery at Sjónlag CM MY tanding on top of an Icelandic glacier, want to help people see life with their own with its clear and unblemished majestic eyes and we feel that there is no better place CY Sviews in all directions, is something you to begin with than the beautiful landscapes CMY can only truly experience with your own of Iceland,” says Kristinn. K eyes and that is exactly what Sjónlag eye A surgery would require only three short clinic wants to offer to potential visitors appointments—one pre-check-up, the with imperfect eyesight—an affordable procedure and a follow-up appointment. refractive eye surgery and Iceland’s The procedure itself only takes a few Two in One grandeur, all in one trip. seconds. “ e very next day you’ll be able “Iceland’s many qualities have been well to go sightseeing with a brand new set of documented recently—we have all these A Perfect Match eyes, as it were,” says Kristinn. incredible natural phenomena, high While many people wouldn’t necessarily quality accommodation and food, good equate having lasers pointed into your eyes Highest Standard of Quality infrastructure and it is very clean, making with a relaxing holiday, Kristinn Ólafsson, Kristinn says that Sjónlag would only complications from infection almost manager of Sjónlag, says they are a better suggest such a holiday if they were unheard of. e current currency situation match than one might think. “What we absolutely sure that the clinic was up to is really the icing on the cake for potential propose is a holiday with a lasting bene t. the highest standard of quality. “We have visitors, as we can offer the procedure at Located in the heart of Reykjavik, the Laugar Spa offers a wellness center for your whole family. What we o er has to do with quality of life bought two new state of the art lasers, a fraction of the price that neighbouring and helping people get the most of it. We all our sta are highly experienced, both countries are currently offering. You can Enjoy our luxury health spa and ensure your body and soul feel their best. abroad and here in Iceland, and the clinic get your eyes fixed and an unforgettable has done thousands of procedures with holiday in Iceland for the same price as just Laugar’s outdoor and indoor thermal pools, beauty and massage clinic, unique fitness center excellent results,” says Kristinn. the procedure elsewhere,” says Kristinn. combined with luxury spa will help you breeze into a wonderful and relaxing holiday. Sjónlag offers a wide variety of –VAG Sjónlag ophthalmological procedures, as di erent

sets of eyes require di erent treatments. “It Álfheimar 74 •104 Reykjavík is important that we  nd the correct solution +354 577 1001 Laugar Laugar Opening hours for each individual, which is why we do [email protected] Sundlaugarvegur 30a Mon - Fri 06:00 - 23:30 thorough research and consultation at the www.sjonlag.is 105 Reykjavik Tel. +354 553 0000 Sat 08:00 - 22:00 beginning stages,” says Kristinn. [email protected] Sun 08:00 - 20:00 www.laugarspa.is 34 www.icelandictimes.com B   SThe Future of Iceland’s Tourism

t’s hard to believe that only a few decades danger by the increasing number of people without even leaving your bed. Smart phone ago Iceland’s tourism infrastructure was Mutual Goals visiting them. It is our opinion that this applications seem to be taking this evolution virtuallyI non-existent. Means of transport were Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir, chairman of does not need to be the case and with proper to the next level and it is an exciting time to limited, access to sights was often difficult, the Capital Area’s branch, says it was very infrastructure and funding we can preserve be working in this  eld,” says Ingibjörg. the food was uniform, activities were scarce enjoyable to see the amount of originality and our nation’s treasures and, at the same time, Among the novelties being presented and accommodation options were few and fresh ideas at the conference. “ ere are always allow the world to enjoy them. We have at the conference was a mobile phone far between. e current variety and quality new parties coming up with new and exciting and co-operate. “In our opinion, both the also seen that, as the industry grows, people application, Be Iceland, which enables you spokesman for gay rights. Pink of services available did however not come ideas and the human imagination seems to industry and customers are better served have started presenting new hidden pearls to discover whatever restaurants, museums Iceland capitalises on Iceland’s open- about by chance – The Icelandic Tourism be the only limitation we have. is steady when the operators are aware and informed from all over, as an alternative to the staple or activities are available in the immediate mindedness and provides gay, bisexual Association has diligently been expanding and  ow of new enterprises makes e Icelandic of what is currently on o er. us an operator attractions,” says Ingibjörg. vicinity in which you are standing. Another and transgendered people tailor-made improving the industry through co-operation Tourism Association all the more important, providing activities, but not accommodation application, from Locatify, takes you on an vacations suited to each lifestyle. and co-ordination between the multitudes of as we need to ensure that everyone operates on can direct his customers to a suitable option Smartphone Take Over informative treasure hunt of sorts, where Also on display were exciting adrenaline di erent parties involved in the industry. the same level of quality and safety. We also and vice versa,” says Ingibjörg. e arrival of smartphones into the industry you race around an area looking for clues fused tours, standardised quality control To give you an insight into the inner make sure that the environment is such that is bound to revolutionise the way we to take you to your next location, each  lled systems, guided elf visiting tours and workings of Iceland’s tourism industry, we newcomers with quality products or services Guarding the Treasures approach travelling, according to Ingibjörg, with information, pictures and media. diving courses in between the tectonic take you to a recent conference arranged by the receive the support and information they The protection of natural resources is as is evident by the number of mobile Iceland is known worldwide for its plates of North America and Europe. A Capital Area’s branch of the Icelandic Tourism need to set up their business,” says Ingibjörg. a matter of great importance for the solutions at the conference. “ e way we plan gay rights, as gay marriage is legal, brief inside look into Iceland’s tourism Association where innovation, creativity and The association also serves as a platform association. “There is a growing concern our trips and activities has already changed its prime minister is outspokenly gay industry thus reveals a landscape as diverse entrepreneurship were on display. where tourism operators can compare, share that some of Iceland’s treasures could be in fundamentally, as you can plan entire trips and Reykjavík’s mayor is a frequent and unique as Iceland itself. –VAG

36 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 37 history, culture and language, giving you just enough to understand the subtle nuances of G  I’ C daily interaction in Iceland. “ e language Languages, History and Cooking in The Tin Can Factory is an inseparable part of our culture and a hen discovering a new culture in a Gígja’s decades of experience in language gateway to a richer experience,” says Gígja. short period of time, most visitors teaching. “I’ve seen that my pupils never Another innovative course takes you failW to really penetrate the core of a nation’s seemed to fully comprehend the culture on an excursion in Reykjavik, where you BReykjavik Bike  Tours’  original  way to  see Reykjavik  is also the best identity. While visiting monuments and until they’d learned about Iceland’s history compare the cityscapes of 1900 and today, f you’re in good health and know Classic Reykjavik Tour – 2.5 hrs / 7 km attractions is rewarding in itself, the true and connected it to our present. I remember through collaboration with Iceland’s how to balance a bicycle, you’ll enjoy This tour is the perfect introduction to the Icelandic experience comes from within and taking people who had been living here for Museum of Photography. At the end of ridingI with one of Reykjavik Bike Tour’s capital city of Iceland and is offered all year. there is no better way to  nd discover it than a while on a tour of Reykjavik, explaining both courses, there will be a traditional entertaining and professional guides. ey You can expect to see some of the city’s hidden through the language, history and the cuisine, the city’s origin and history and, after the tea-break buffet where you’ll make o er bicycle tours and rentals in Reykjavik secrets while learning about its history from require the assistance of a minibus and according to Gigja Svavarsdottir, the driving tour, one of the group members said, with authentic Icelandic pancakes and learn all year. In summer, they also do day trips a professional and enthusiastic local tourist trailer. Combine all five and you’ve got force behind the newly opened Tin Can a sigh of relief, “Finally, now Reykjavik has what caused them to be so thin. out of town in a minibus with a bicycle guide. You get to know what the city is all about yourself a holiday bicycle tour. Factory, an old factory house, converted into come into my heart!”, says Gígja. The cooking course centres on either combination to places not to be missed. – in terms of its history, best museums, best The two city tours are the Classic an energetic centre for language and culture. brunch or dinner, where you’ll prepare restaurants, current special events and much, Reykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 7 km, and the Coast Why Are Icelandic Pancakes so in? traditional Icelandic courses with local No. 1 on Trip Advisor much more. Perhaps the most important aspect of Reykjavik – 2.5 hrs / 18 km. e Classic Reykjavik in the Heart Using her experience, Gígja decided to o er ingredients, while learning Iceland’s history Reykjavik Bike Tours has enjoyed top of this tour, apart from the exercise, of course, is tour has plenty of stops and is quite easy for Visitors to the Tin Can Factory are visitors who are staying for a shorter time the through slideshows and conversation. position on the Trip Advisor social traveller the direct access to the local guide giving the tour. anyone in good health. The Coast tour is welcomed with a range of choices to same experience. e Tin Can Centre thus website for the past three years. It is Ursula also fairly easy but covers more than twice discover Iceland’s culture, structured upon o ers an informative crash-course in Iceland’s Walk Straight Into the Community and Stefan’s family business, founded in Holiday Bicycle Tour the distance of the Classic tour. The Tin Can Factory has a strict 2009. Travellers appreciate the friendly Reykjavik Bike Tours o ers one scheduled e three tours that involve the use of a environmental policy and only uses welcome, knowledgeable guides, the outdoor tour in winter, and  ve scheduled tours in minibus and trailer are: Golden Circle & vintage furniture and interiors. High activity and excellent quality bicycles. summer; two in the city, and three which Bike – 8 hrs / 25 km; Westman Isles & Bike ceilings, massive wooden tables, ancient – 9 hrs / 11 km and Blue Lagoon & Bike – 8 pump-organs and classic drapes make for a hrs / 18 km. For more information, please unique and welcoming mood. “We wanted visit Reykjavik Bike Tour’s website. to create something di erent, something that gives our visitors direct access to

Ursula and Stefan love what they Iceland’s culture and history, where people © Immages Gabriel Rutenberg do and receive every visitor with a can simply walk in the door and feel like friendly smile. they are a part of a community,” says Gígja. –SHV –VAG Reykjavik Bike Tours Tungumálaskólinn

Ægisgarður 7 • 101 Reykjavík Borgartún 1 • 105 Reykjavík +354 694 8956 +354 551 7700 [email protected] [email protected] www.icelandbike.com www.skoli.eu

38 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 39 Celebration Year In 2013, Isafold Travel is celebrating its 16th birthday. All of its vehicles are 4-wheel drive, so 4x4=16 will be the theme of the year. So this is the best time to try out the Winter Trophy or pickup service from Ke avik International Highland Challenge and Comfort Self-Drive Airport, Reykjavik domestic airport and the TIsafold Travel offersT fl exible tours to fi t your T wishes tours in the Land Rover Defenders. DReykjavik Rent a Car IProvides Cars for Your Comfort and Convenience BSÍ coach station in downtown Reykjavik. safold Travel was founded 1997 as a Tailored for Season and Style “In addition, we offer discounts on car family based company, which is run Isafold Travel offers a selection of guided Gifted Guiding eykjavik Rent a Car is a leading available with automatic transmission rental all year which make it more a ordable byI Jón Baldur Thorbjörnsson. The word scheduled tours that take individual Both the tailored and scheduled tours are car rental company in Iceland that and considerable engine power—which is to rent a car,” says Mr. Baldvinsson. ‘Isafold’ is a poetic name for Iceland. e bookings. The company guarantees conducted by excellent driver-guides and Isafold specialisesR in 4x4 car hire as well as low needed in remote areas of Iceland. company has now grown up to be a dynamic departure with a minimum of 2 persons and Travel focuses on  nding the right guide for each fuel consumption smaller family cars. “All our cars can be equipped with a Detailed information is available on all-round tour operator, still focusing on normally not exceeding a maximum of 10. group, depending on language and theme. “We o er a selection of high perform- range of useful extras, often needed in rural Reykjavik Rent A Car’s website. –SHV tailored private tours for small groups. There are a variety of themes offered. For Isafold Travel ance vehicles that are comfortable to Iceland, such as Garmin GPS Navigation Reykjavik Rent a Car e team of Isafold Travel strongly believes in example, there is the culinary tour ‘Taste of drive and are  t to tackle anything that System, roof boxes, child safety seats and the advantage of small groups, resulting in more Iceland’, summer and winter family tours, Sudurhraun 2B • 210 Gardabær Iceland’s volcanic terrain has to o er,” says other accessories” says Halldór. Hlíðasmári 13 • 201 Kópavogur flexibility, more personal service and higher various photography tours, authentic tours +354 544 8866 owner, Halldór Baldvinsson. Reykjavik Rent a Car offers a delivery +354 569 3300 customer satisfaction. It’s quite a challenge to with the best seller, ‘Iceland Break’ and  nally [email protected] Reykjavik Rent a Car have a fleet of service and can deliver your rent-a-car [email protected] ‘invent the wheel’ every time a new tour is created, ‘Winter Trophy’, a challenging highland www.isafoldtravel.is vehicles which includes top models such directly to any hotel or guesthouse in the www.reykjavikrentacar.is however the Isafold Team loves creativity! adventure operated in modi ed 4x4 ISAK’s. as Jeep, Dodge, Suzuki and Ford; all Greater Reykjavik area. They also offer a

tyres for increased  otation for driving on snow, sand or on other soft surfaces, just by Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown de ating the tyres as far down as one tenth of the normal pressure in extreme situations. Then the wonder happens: the footprint of the Defender will be less deep than a footprint of someone standing alongside it.

Equipped for the Extreme Apart from the construction modifications, every Defender is equipped with an air compressor, ice bumper, snorkel and a VHF Probably the best pizza radio for communication between the vehicles— along with a shovel and a rope, of course.

Challenge yourself and the Country in town Isak 4x4 rental opens up a unique and challenging way to experience Iceland by driving a superjeep, either individually rented, on guided convoy tours, on scheduled challenging winter tours or on DIsak 4x4 Rental  has S  specially modifi ed Land Rovers for any conditions explorative U-Drive Tours in the summer. n the summer solstice in 2013, it will incentive groups to drive a modi ed SUV, Isak 4x4 Rental be 6 years since the innovative Isak which the Icelanders call a ‘Superjeep’. Sudurhraun 2B • 210 Gardabær 4x4O rental was established. Isak was the Sudurhraun 2B • 210 Gardabær  rst car rental in Iceland to o er exclusively +354 544 8860 Drive where others cannot go +354 544 8860 [email protected] [email protected] modi ed 4x4’s for individual rental and self Isak owns and operates 16 modified 4x4 www.isak.is drive purposes. e rental accommodates Land Rover Defenders, either type 110 or www.isak.is the many requests by individuals and 130. ey have been mounted on big 38” www.gamlasmidjan.is 40 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 41 A C 

A Rises by the Sea he metropolitan hustle and bustle A Packed Schedule the Christmas Village. e afternoons, from Christmas from 13-18 and whatever time everyone is most welcome to enjoy the leading up to Christmas can often be Ásbjörg Una Björnsdóttir, manager of one o’clock to about four, will be action- you come you can be sure that something festivities with them. “ e whole town of GquiteT daunting and a getaway, celebrating Hafnarfjörður’s Christmas Village, says packed for the children and families—with will be going on,” says Ásbjörg. Hafnar örður is extremely welcoming to a calm and friendly holiday spirit, can seem that, because Icelandic Christmas traditions outdoor singing and dancing, magic and visitors. ere will be activities going on like a faraway dream. Many will be surprised, are quite unique, the Christmas town is not various performances. After four we’ll calm A Traditional Holiday all over town and there are quality design however, that a 20 minute bus ride from only about the market. “We want to provide things down a bit with cosy accordion or The Christmas Village places special and jewellery shops close to the market, as Reykjavik’s city centre will take you straight people with the complete Christmas package jazz music and a more traditional Christmas emphasis on traditional Icelandic Christmas well as a small shopping complex in the to a local small-town setting of choral singing, and o er a wide array of entertainment in mood. We’re open each weekend up until customs. “We want people to be able to vicinity. We even have small local lava calm Christmas shopping, holiday pastries, get away from it all and experience real  elds with elven inhabitants and guided dancing around the , friendly Icelandic holidays. Everything here is done tours to visit them. e number one bus banter and general holiday spirit in the by the locals for the good of the community, goes directly from the main bus terminal Christmas Village of Hafnar örður. as opposed to strictly marketing purposes. Grýla—the Yule Lads’ troll mother! She acts and stops right in front of the market, so Each year, the people of the calm port- The local choirs will be performing and as a presenter, performer and also mingles there really is no reason not to check out town of Hafnar örður, located just outside presenting their products. One of the few with the children in the crowd. Those our cosy Christmas village,” says Ásbjörg. Reykjavik, erect a Christmas market in the abbeys in Iceland is located in Hafnar örður who are lucky can even spot her giant cat –VAG Hafnarfjarðarbær city centre and ring in the holiday cheer and the nuns sell their quality products at roaming around.

with activities and performances every the market. We have authentic Icelandic Strandgötu 6 • 220 Hafnarfi rði weekend up until Christmas. e market food, genuine local crafts and real Icelandic A Welcoming Village +354 585 5500 consists of several holiday cabins where entertainment,” says Ásbjörg. To celebrate Even though the Christmas Village in [email protected] the locals display their goods; including Icelandic Christmas tradition the presenter Hafnarfjörður is a local event, Ásbjörg www.visithafnarfjordur.is

© Immages Gabriel Rutenberg crafts, pastries and hot chocolate. for all the acts on stage is none other than places special emphasis on the fact that

42 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 43 T  L 

Reykjavik Excursions’ Tours Take in Riding and Health Spas over a natural hot spring and you can hear hat little rock in the Arctic that is In today’s stressful societies, peace and power of Gullfoss waterfall, Reykjavik it bubbling through the open  ooring at Iceland might seem to have little to tranquility are becoming much sought-after Excursions has added the option to your feet. Not only do the baths and pools offer,T but what it does have is beginning commodities. The benefits of unwinding enjoy the spa at Laugavatn Fontana, help improve your health, but those with Ride the Ice annecdotes associated with the sights to be very much appreciated. Pure air, and enjoying life without pressure are well horse riding in the countryside, or arthritis can bene t from walking on the For the ultimate adventure on the Golden you both pass and stop at, so you’re able pure water,H unpolluted food, beautifully known and now Reykjavik Excursions snowmobiling on the Langjökull glacier. warm sands on the edge of the lake. and Circle, you can head up onto Langjökull to get the most out of the tour. relaxing vistas, wonderful animal and bird makes it possible for you to enjoy your includes the Golden Circle sites. glacier for a thrilling ride on the ice using Taking a winter tour is all the more life, nature and geology that is unrivalled holiday and gain the bene ts the Icelanders powerful snowmobiles. We’re talking about spectacular, as the countryside changes are just a few examples. have been accustomed to all their lives. Riding Man’s Most Valued Friend an hour-long ride on Iceland’s second largest and you may well see one of the most Icelandic horses are unusual in that they glacier and the views and experience this powerful waterfalls silenced, frozen in an e Golden Circle With Extras have two additional gaits that make them will give you are amazing. ice sculpture that is astounding to view. Now Reykjavik Excursions has introduced wonderful to ride. Of course, you can All the tours include pick-up from your This is what makes Iceland so special— tours that take in the famous Golden Circle trot, if you like bouncing up and down, hotel half-an-hour before departure and its seasonal diversity is so great, it’s as if but which also add some extra spice. Besides but they have a gait called the ‘tolt’ which drop off when arriving back in Reykjavik. you’re visiting a different country. seeing the unique sites such as Þingvellir, is so smooth and comfortable, you could The luxury coaches all have wireless –ASF ReykjavikReykjavik Excursions where the tectonic plates can clearly be seen ride for hours without getting saddle- Internet access so you can immediately pulling apart at the site where the world’s sore. Reykjavik Excursions has teamed Tweet or post your experiences on e Fontana Spa BSI Bus Terminal • 101 Reykjavík longest-running parliament began or the e recently totally renovated and rebuilt up with top stables, Eldhestar, to give an Facebook as you live them, with photos +354 580 5400 geothermal area at Geysir, with its soaring steam baths and pools on the edge of Lake inspiring 1½2 hour ride, followed by to prove it. You’ll appreciate the [email protected] columns of steam and after which all Laugarvatn are one of those experiences to a light lunch and a continuation of the comfort as you travel and the guide fills www.re.is such spouts are named or the thundering remember. The sauna and steam baths sit Golden Circle tour. you in on the background, history and

44 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 45 Sailing across the Atlantic might not seem that impressive with the technology and materials we have today, but one cannot but be impressed when looking at the 18 tons of wood and 5,000 nails used to make a wooden T So Much MoreG than Just the Blue E Lagoon behemoth which could survive the unforgiving ll too few visitors to the famous Blue Extreme Conditions high seas of the Atlantic Ocean – Viking style! Lagoon realise that, just beyond the Grindavík retains a special place in history surroundingA hills is a wonderland of geology as one of Iceland’s prime locations for the e Whole Viking Package and history—at the centre of which is the production of salted cod. While present day Víkingaheimar is full of informative and tranquil  shing town of Grindavík. Having Iceland has welcomed modern comforts and entertaining exhibitions, which delve into survived extreme conditions throughout the technology, it’s important to remember that, T The Complete W Viking Experience  is  Found inV  Reykjanesbær the story of the Viking expansion across the centuries, the industrious people of Grindavík until only a few decades ago, this was one of the uch has been made of Iceland’s Viking Millennial Voyage Atlantic, their unique mythology, myths and have now united to give their visitors a chance most inhospitable places imaginable. Extreme Geological Wonderland heritage and many Icelanders proudly One of its prize displays is the Viking ship the archeological findings in the Suðurnes to get the full ‘Grindavík Experience.’ weather conditions, lack of vegetation, The peninsula on which Grindavík is claimM they possess some of the Vikings’ Íslendingur, an exact replica of a genuine region which tell the story of the settlement unforgiving tides, isolation, darkness, disease, positioned is actually the Mid-Atlantic most desirable traits; strength, courage and Viking ship, dated back to 870 AD, which of Iceland. After your visit you’ll no longer famine, poverty and even pillaging pirates Ridge rising out of the Atlantic Ocean as persistence. e modern day Icelander can, was excavated almost entirely intact in wonder why so many Icelanders cling so from Algeria are among the struggles that the a result of powerful underwater volcanic however, hardly be considered an accurate Norway in 1882 and is considered one of adamantly to their Viking ancestry. The people of Grindavík have had to deal with over eruptions As you can imagine, the area is representation of the Viking lifestyle. Outside the best examples of the era’s engineering Vikings’ accomplishments and ingenuity the centuries and the only way out of these dire bursting with energy. The region is home of witnessing history buffs dressing up in and maritime knowledge. What makes in face of extremely harsh environments on circumstances was through the salted cod. to over 100 volcanic craters, over 200 lava traditional garb in county festivals, the full the Íslendingur so amazing is that it display in Víkingaheimar speak for themselves With Grindavík Experience, visitors are tubes, lava fields, hot springs and much extent of the Vikings’ incredible way of life is was actually used to cross the Atlantic and when you show up at home with your now able to get a better sense of how history more. ese phenomena have however been nowhere more visible than in Víkingaheimar, in the year 2000 to commemorate Leif Viking helmet on, you’ll actually be able to has moulded the nation of today. “Through somewhat hidden and hard to reach, but via e World of the Vikings, in Reykjanesbær. Eiriksson’s discovery of North-America. retell the incredible heritage that it signi es. this initiative we’ve been able to merge all these the Grindavík Experience, the area has been divergent sources of interest into one experience. made easily accessible by walking tours, all- Iceland at Your Doorstep As a result you can, for example, enjoy the lava terrain vehicles, bus tours, bicycle tours and When arriving to Iceland all too many tourists fields and craters and learn about the many even on horseback. Signposts and paths have hop on the  rst bus they see and head straight shipwrecks and ship rescues in the area. With already been placed throughout the lava elds to Reykjavík, missing out on the wonders of their involvement in the project, smaller and historical sites and a new direct path from the Reykjanes peninsula —geological, historic operators have been able to present their services the Blue Lagoon to Grindavík is underway. and cultural. You’d be well advised to book on a much bigger scale, giving visitors a unique A park guiding you through one hundred your first night in Reykjanesbær and work Unique Geology, Tranquility by the Sea way of experiencing the area,” says Sigurður. volcanic craters was established recently and your way from there. Despite its proximity Sigurður Óli Hilmarsson, chairman of the creation of a Geopark is in the works. to the airport, Reykjanesbær is no ordinary Grindavík Experience, says the initiative has The Geopark concept is a collective airport town; it’s actually a vibrant village exceeded most expectations, but the biggest venue where visitors can experience history, with a unique history, countless activities and reward is giving people a chance to experience modernity, landscape, geology, cuisine, arts, natural phenomena to be discovered. the area which the people of Grindavík are crafts,  ora and fauna of the area. –VAG so proud of. “ e attractions here are really –VAG Reykjanesbær Grindavíkurbær limitless, with a history so rich that it would

Tjarnargötu 12 • 230 Reykjanesbæ take days to recount. I myself have done some Víkurbraut 62 • 240 Grindavík +354 421 6700 guiding in the area and found I could spend +354 420 1100 [email protected] an entire day talking just about one particular [email protected] www.reykjanesbaer.is cape, called Hópsnes, without anyone www.visitgrindavik.is becoming even remotely bored,” says Sigurður.

46 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 47  oors could talk. About the only thing that might seem out of place is the plaster bust of John Lennon that is suspended from the ceiling and a large poster of the Beatle above the piano in the corner of the room. e owners are retired  shermen who just happen to be big Beatle fans! When the weather allows, you can sit outside on the deck to sip your co ee, tea or glass of wine, or enjoy the cosy atmosphere inside where light lunches of soups and sandwiches or home-made cakes are served. On Wednesdays, the house speciality is a traditional lamb soup and on Fridays it’s lobster soup, using the freshest ingredients, of course. Every year, Café Bryggjan hosts its very own ‘Cultural Week’ with some of T Grindavík’s F ’ cosy café culture F Iceland’s well known poets, writers, and Would you like to do something di erent hat I love about Café Bryggjan is its musicians, performing their works. And WGet the Most Out ofJ a Winter T Trip to Iceland with Salty Tours on your trip but are not quite sure what? solid authenticity in a town that has if you stick around long enough, someone hen you travel to Iceland with a like the back of his hand means you will Owner, Þorsteinn, has enough ideas to make servedW as one of Iceland’s most important may just strike up an old Beatle song on small group of friends, you may get a lot out of your trip. Not only that, your head spin. You are promised a great  shing centres for the last 500 years. Located that piano in the corner! beW tempted to simply rent a car and see but the drive is filled with fun anecdotes, day, no matter what the weather. –EMV –ASF on the quay of Grindavík’s harbour, the Café Bryggjan the sights. To be frank, driving in Iceland history, geology and lots of interest that Salty Tours popular fishermen’s café has an almost in winter can be quite a challenge and, by makes the hours fly by too fast. museum-like feel to it. It is decorated with an Miðgarði 2 • 240 Grindavík driving yourselves, you will miss a lot. One of the most highly reviewed tour Borgarhrauni 1 • 240 Grindavík interesting variety of sea-related memorabilia. +354 426 7100 operators on TripAdvisor.com, Salty Tours +354 820 5750 Photo after photo of retired  shing vessels kaffi [email protected] Luxury Travel Filled with Fun Stories offers personalised tours to the Golden [email protected] line the walls. e well-worn wooden  oor www.kaffi bryggjan.is Travelling in the comfort of a luxury jeep Circle with a lot of extras thrown in that www.saltytours.is would no doubt have some stories to tell, if with a guide who really knows the region you would never see or experience otherwise.

Linger over a glass of wine from Salthusið’s extensive wine list while listening to the soft Comfortable nightly four-hour tours to catch ambient music in front of the wood-burning the Northern Lights in South-west Iceland stove in the dining room that serves to AURORA warm and brighten those rainy days that are Price: sometimes a part of life in Grindavík. BOREALIS TOURS Adults 14.000 ISK Children under 12 half-price Aside from the á la carte evening menu, there is more casual fare for the lunch crowd, Included: a café with free Internet access and a bar IN LUXURY JEEPS Camera-tripod, warm overalls and warm drinks which is popular with the locals on weekends. Salthusið Restaurant, just 5 minutes drive Pick-up: from the internationally acclaimed Blue direct from hotels in Reykjavik at 20:30, from Lagoon, is housed in a warm and inviting hotels in Grindavík near the Blue Lagoon and from log house, made of solid Estonian pine. e Keflavík at 19:45 restaurant, spanning 2  oors, is an elegant venue for banquets, parties, conferences and reception dinners accommodating a total T Salthúsið A Restaurant  takes B this famous fi sh toG a new level of taste of 200 guests. e large premises can host conferences, workshops and meetings in 3 all it bacalao, salted cod, morue or Mediterranean, African, and Caribbean dining rooms, each with its own separate salt sk in Icelandic, the cod  sh was so cuisine for many centuries. sound system, wireless Internet and an importantC to Iceland’s economy that it featured Benefiting from its proximity to the sea, overhead projection system. prominently on the Icelandic Coat of Arms. Salthusið’s á la carte menu features beautifully –EMV Salthúsið Restaurant The Salthúsið (Salt House) Restaurant presented seafood that couldn’t be more fresh: of Grindavík is the first restaurant in whether it’s cod, haddock or catfish or even Stamphólsvegi 2 • 240 Grindavík Iceland specialising in the lowly codfish, lobster—it all depends on the ‘catch of the day’. +354 426 9700 bringing it up to new heights. Not a  sh lover? e menu also features items [email protected] Once the staple of the poor, baccalao such as marinated  llet of lamb, beef tenderloin www.salthusid.is has been a celebrated ingredient in and BBQ ribs amongst others. +354 426 8822 • [email protected] • www.volcano.is 48 www.icelandictimes.com L  –ASF  The spectacular Northern Lights   captured by Olgeir Andrésson for all to enjoy

inter in Iceland is a complete the solar cycle reaches its peak. Across eir shape and patterns change by the contrast to its summers. ose long the entire country on almost every clear moment and they really do appear to be Capturing the beauty of the Northern Lights summerW nights, when the sun barely dips night, these brilliant, swirling lights in the dancing as they sweep across the sky. Whilst has been a life-long project for Olgeir below the horizon are replaced by darkness sky ere is never one night the same as they can be seen in Reykjavik, the city lights Andrésson. He travels for hours to fi nd the settling in early in the afternoons. However, another. ey appear, dance across the sky don’t allow their full beauty to be visible and spots he feels they will be at their best and all is not blackness as the snows transform in a ballet of light, only to disappear as so it has become popular to take a tour out then spends hours fi lming them, sacrifi cing sleep and comfort to get the best shots. the landscape into an ethereal picture of abruptly as they came. into the countryside or to travel to di erent Over the years, he has developed numerous beauty unlike any other. Not only that, is will be the best time to view them and parts of the country to enjoy them. © Immages: Olgeir Andrésson techniques to portray both them and his but those frosty nights, when the skies are the time when the chance of viewing them Just as they are never the same any given surroundings at their best. Using a good crystal clear, the unique Aurora Borealis can is higher than in past years. Experiencing night, so they appear di erently according to camera with long exposures, he has produced  ll them with works of art that are constantly the Northern Lights display in person can where you are viewing them in the country. some stunning displays of this phenomenon changing in an entrancing display that draws be awesome. e nights generally need to Photos you see are a moment, frozen in time that most would never get the opportunity to many to Iceland just to enjoy them. be chilly and clear. Any time from 6 pm of an event that will be very di erent just see in their lifetime. He has become a master e 2012—2013 winter is expected to onwards, the Lights can appear, starting as a minute later. us, this is a performance in his craft and his masterpieces could adorn provide the most spectacular season of a glow and frequently becoming so bright that can be enjoyed every night they appear, any art gallery, company or home. Northern Lights for the next decade as that everything around is clearly visible. often for hours at a time. –ASF

50 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 51 is tour can be joined either in Reykjavik or at the Blue Lagoon so, after your soak in those soothing warm waters, you can continue discovering the area’s riches—hidden from most travellers behind the mountains of lava. The first stop is just down the road at country and understand why people love A VGrayline-Iceland Excursions Takes You on Tours You’ll Not Forget In the Steps of Jules Verne Grindavík. This is a fishing town with a A full-day trip that will exceed your coming here so much, whatever the season, hen Iceland dons its winter coat, the glow. Not that it’s dark the whole day—far from changing, appearing and disappearing in history going back to the Settlement. e expectations is the tour to Snæfellsnes rain or snow, sun or storm. D country changes dramatically. The it. e sun, being lower in the sky, casts lights ofL a swirling dance. A good camera, tripod tour then passes through the dramatic lava Peninsula. I took this trip in the middle of a longW summer days turn to nights, to start with. beautiful colours on all the surroundings. It’s a and warm clothing are recommended to  elds to the Krýsuvík boiling mud pools snow storm and learnt more than in all the Celebrating New Year’s Eve You might think that’s bad news—but how very special time to take some very special tours. get the most from the evening. and the nearby bubbling Kleifarvatn Lake, trips I had driven myself. But whether it is clear If you’re in Iceland over New Year’s, you’re in else would you be able to see the spectacular With 34 distinct tours on o er in the winter both even more spectacular if there is snow and  ne or a winter storm, the weather only for quite an experience. Icelanders bring in Northern Lights sweeping across the sky? and about 55 in summer, Iceland Excursions- Days Display Cold, Heat and History on the ground for photo opportunities. adds to the experience and enjoyment. the New Year in style. You’ll doubtless want Then, the land changes, too. The snow Grayline Iceland is one of the most popular tour Over the Christmas period, from the This tour has it all—history, geology, to enjoy the festivities—they’re spectacular. reflects the light, so the darkness takes on a operators. We’ll take a look at just four here. 23rd December until 1st January, the bird life, photo opportunities, dramatic ere’s a tour for that and you can join it. It special Summer Reprise takes place, with landscapes, energy,  shing villages. It’s one starts around 8 pm with a bon re. ere’s a e Night Belongs to the Lights tours heading out west to the Reykjanes of the most interesting trips, being so full of break for a light meal at a restaurant before is winter, the cycle of the Northern Lights, Peninsula. e  rst takes you to a landscape diversity and the guide brings it all to life. moving to a viewing spot to enjoy the main will be at its peak. ey will not be visible as covered with lava  elds, volcanoes,  ssures The last main stop is Stykkishólmur event. It’s as if the whole of Reykjavik is often or be as spectacular for another decade. and geothermal areas. Starting with a visit  shing village on the mystical Breiða örður shooting up  reworks in a breathtaking 360° The tour leaves every evening at 8 pm on to Hvalneskirkja, a church built in 1887, the Bay, with its countless islands. e bay looks display that reaches its climax at midnight. a magical mystery tour far away from the scene rapidly changes, visiting the bridge like the set for a fantasy  lm. You may also see –ASF Iceland Excursions city lights to find and enjoy the elusive, ever between two continents, the European and some whales as you travel its coastline.

changing Northern Lights, weather permitting. American tectonic plates. Then, it’s on to Then, driving home over the mountain Hafnarstræti 20 • 101 Reykjavík They rely on both their experience and the Gunnuhver hot springs before ending at the pass, you are treated to yet another di erent +354 540 1313 reports online to  nd the best chance for each Blue Lagoon. You can either enjoy a relaxing landscape, with volcanoes, lakes, waterfalls [email protected] night. The displays can last anywhere from soak in these mineral-rich spa waters, simply and rivers. In this one tour, you get to www.grayline.is minutes to hours—and they are constantly head back to Reykjavik or take the next tour. appreciate many of the di erent sides to this

52 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 53 Northern Lights

STake a Sweet Gift Home  from Ísland TreasuresT Delicious Delicacies sland Treasures ehf. introduced a range of souvenirÍ Icelandic candies in the summer 2012. These were ‘Icelandic Puffin Eggs’ – milk chocolate treats with a soft chewy liquorice centre, ‘Icelandic back for your Northern Lights’ – business card to all natural, hand be affixed before they made, peppermint are individually wrapped sugar candies, in in cellophane, giving you the colour of the a unique business gift which Seljalandsfoss Geysir area Northern Lights, ‘Icelandic Lava Sparks’ also promotes Iceland. If you are – traditional Icelandic toffee wrapped Promotions Fondly Remembered interested in taking advantage of in a crisp red shell, and ‘Icelandic Lava Ísland Treasures also designs small packages this unique promotional gift, please Pebbles’ – traditional Icelandic liquorice for hand outs at conferences and smaller, contact by email or visit the website. toffee with a hint of chocolate, wrapped lighter versions of their  agship ‘Icelandic Ísland Treasures in a crisp black shell. ey were an instant Pu n Eggs’ gift boxes aimed at companies, hit in select tourist shops and sites around business people and anyone interested in Skagabraut 25 • 300 Akranes the country. Very quickly, these souvenir promoting Iceland. ese come in 2 designs: +354 612 5065 candies began to be snapped up by tourists their traditional pu n scene and another [email protected] and Icelanders looking for unique Icelandic humorous one aimed at golfers. Both www.islandtreasures.biz gifts to take to friends overseas. of these small boxes have a space on the

Master goldsmith and designer of jewellery, Dýrfinna Torfadóttir has a personal style, characterised by an original & daring execution. Her designs can be found and bought in Epal Design Store at Keflavik Airport, in Listhús Ófeigs in Reykjavik, at Goldsmith Sædís in the old harbour, Reykjavik and in Gullauga, Ísafjörður.

Stillholt 16-18 • 300 Akranes +354 464 3460 +354 862 6060 [email protected] www.diditorfa.com Day tours / Activities / Airport Express Arts & Crafts We are one of the leading tour operators in Iceland and offer professional services, flexibility and Gallery SÓLA safety for travellers in Iceland. Designer Snjólaug Guðmundsdóttir Allow us to provide you with a transfer from the airport and introduce you to the variety that creates beautiful crafts from felted wool & jewellery from bones and shells. Iceland has to offer; from its richness in culture and history to its breathtaking beauty in nature Known for her talents, she also weaves Ullarselið in Hvanneyri is a shop and daily life. wall carpets, often with beautiful with handcrafted goods, wool reference to Icelandic nature. products from Icelandic wool Snjólaug teaches courses upon request Enjoy Iceland with and encourages people who are and handcrafted items from Iceland Excursions – Gray Line Iceland interested to contact her. many more Icelandic materials. www.grayline.is Brúarland 2 • 311 Borgarnes +354 437 1817 [email protected] www.ull.is • [email protected] • +354 437 0077

54 www.icelandictimes.com D   

A Popular Sightseeing Spot Comes with Dinner and a Place to Stay N ou’ll see Hótel Brú set back o the road as L  Restaurant by the Bay you drive down the side of Borgar örður Veigar is an experienced chef—and it shows. Bay,Y just a short distance from the causeway His fish buffet, prepared from locally- e hotel has recently been renovated e Hotel capital, it makes a very convenient place bridge (or brú) that gives the hotel its name. caught fish and fresh local ingredients is and so those beds are very inviting—but Hótel Brú is a country hotel, warm and to dine, watch the Northern Lights and For generations, this area has been a popular gaining rave reviews on travel sites as well as then, so is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity welcoming on a cold night, with hot turn in for a good, comfortable night’s picnic and sightseeing spot and now, through amongst the Icelanders. is is the kind of to experience the Northern Lights. is drinks and a bar to warm you up. It has sleep, before continuing your journey. It the hotel’s owner, Veigar Freyr Jökulsson, dinner that is worth driving out of town for. is a time to wrap up warmly, turn off 8 rooms with privated bathrooms and is only a few minutes away from a rich it has become one of the most popular The fresh fish is fried with a mixture of your  ash and open your camera shutter. 8 with shared bathrooms. Each of the and fascinating history, with many of the restaurants serving a special  sh bu et. vegetables and spices, creating a light, refreshing You will be amazed at the quality of the ground floor rooms has both a private country’s famous figures having lived and dinner. There is an extensive wine list to photos you can take home with you—not bathroom and entrance and all the rooms left their mark in the vicinity. complement the meal, served in a quiet, relaxed to mention the memory of the experience. have free Internet access. e rooms are It’s great to be able to base in a place manner that encourages a good digestion. charming and snug with comfy furniture. that you know you can come back at the e restaurant itself looks out onto the bay. It On a cold, clear evening, without city lights A hearty breakfast welcomes guests in the end of a day’s exploring or enjoying the has comfortable, subdued lighting and candles to distract, the view is beautiful. e Northern morning in the restaurant or out on the area’s activities to a delicious dinner and at each table. It’s clear that the sta want you to Lights can be seen clearly both outside and lovely balcony overlooking the bay on the the possibility of an evening’s ethereal enjoy your meal in this comfortable atmosphere. from the bedrooms. In fact, if you wish, the one side and sheltered by the mountain entertainment in the heavens. hotel runs a service to notify guests staying range on the other. From here, you can – Hótel Brú ASF Northern Light Dinner there of the appearance of the Lights in the see all the way to the famed Snæfellsjökull is year, as the Northern Lights reach their night. You can let the sta know if you have when the weather is clear—which it is very Hafnarskógur • 311 Borgarbyggð peak, the opportunity to see them is better any limits to when you can be disturbed but, often, to the surprise of some guests. +354 437 2345 than ever—if you are in the right place. As for some, this has been the only time they In the winter months, if you have [email protected] you can see from the pictures here, Hótel Brú have seen them during their visit to Iceland, a later start from Reykjavik on your www.hotelbru.is is de nitely one of those ‘right’ places. so it’s an option well-liked by guests. way north, being only 65 km from the

56 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 57 up beds. Owners Steinunn and Sæmundur will be more than happy to point you in the right direction to the natural D Gamli Bærinn  Bed N & Breakfast at Húsafell W wonders in the area, among them: riving north towards Akureyri in the Spring, I decided to wander o • Surtshellir - a lava tube, the longest cave theD ring road near the town of Borgarnes in Iceland at (1970 m or 6463 ft) to do some exploring. Forty minutes later, • Hraunfossar - a series of low cascading I found myself at Húsafell—an area rich falls that come up through the lava plain. in history with several extraordinary • Barnafoss falls waterfalls, two scenic glaciers and some • Langjökull and Eiríksjökull Glaciers pretty amazing people. Húsafell is a service village nowadays, Beautifully sculpted rocks, the work of but in former times it was a sprawling estate sculptor and musician Páll Guðmundsson, with a farm and rectory under the care of himself the great, great, great grandson the 18th century Pastor Snorri Björnason. of Pastor Snorri, are scattered around the e old farmhouse from 1908, known today grounds. A fascinating artist and musician, as Gamli Bærinn, has been renovated and Páll is also known for his marimba-like turned into a quaint bed and breakfast that instrument made of stones. Páll and the o ers sleeping bag accommodation and made Sigur Rós band did a performance using the HThe Snorrastofa Cultural B  and Medieval Centre  isL  in Reykholt steinnharp, as it is called in Icelandic, several norri Sturluson (1179-1241), Iceland’s is situated on his ancient homestead, years ago in the Surtshellir lava tube cave. – best known Saga writer and scholar, is which is considered one of Iceland’s most Gamli bærinn Húsafelli EMV Sthe author of such important and famous noteworthy historical sites. Snorrastofa works as Heimskringla, which is one of the manages research, a library, an exhibition Húsafell • 311 Borgarbyggð most important sources of Scandinavian about Snorri and conference facilities. It +354 895 1342 history, Snorra Edda, a handbook on poetry also runs a tourist reception and a souvenir [email protected] and mythology and probably one of the very shop, which offers books, postcards and none best Sagas of Icelanders, Egil’s Saga, the story Icelandic designs, some exclusively for of the Viking poet Egill Skallagrímsson. sale in Snorrastofa. A new exhibition, Snorri’s records of the Old Norse language ‘The Snorri Sturluson Saga’, can now be and Nordic mythology are invaluable to visited in Snorrastofa. It tells the story of modern scholars. e quality of his writing Snorri’s exciting life, addressing issues made him the foremost historical writer of such as upbringing, education, writing, e Reykholt Churches medieval times throughout Europe. His properties and manors. ere are two churches in Reykholt: the old style, bringing his characters to life, makes Snorri’s bath (a geothermally heated church, consecrated in 1887, now beautifully fascinating reading even today. pool) can be seen outside along with the restored by the National Museum of Iceland, Snorri was a wealthy and powerful tunnel which led from his private manor and the new church built between 1988 chieftain in the age of unrest and civil war directly out to the pool. and 1996. The new church is known for preceding Iceland’s loss of independence. A statue of Snorri by Gustav Vigeland its strikingly designed windows (designed He was murdered by his enemies in his stands in front of the old district school, by Valgerður Bergsdóttir) and its acoustics. home on the 23rd September 1241. which was used between 1931 and 1997. The church is famous for its concerts all Today the beautiful building, designed year round. A classical music festival of the SnorrastofaA Living Memorial by Guðjón Samúelsson, is administrated highest quality, e Reykholt Music Festival Snorrastofa, the Cultural and Medieval by Snorrastofa, o ering apartments and is held annually on the last weekend in July. Centre in Reykholt in West Iceland, study facilities for scholars, along with Snorrastofa’s exhibition, “Snorri was founded in memory of Snorri. It meeting and conference facilities. Sturluson’s Saga”, can be visited all year A HOME IN THE NORTH Room or lounge and the breakfast room round. During the summer season, (1st May Siglufjörður is a Winter Paradise Worth Visiting Any Time of Year are also suitable for meetings. – 31st August), the opening hours are from ocated in the heart of Siglufjörður, bags or made up beds. Rooms are cosy, Hotel manager, Katrín Sif Andersen takes 10 to 18 every day, and during the winter Hvanneyri Guesthouse offers great each with a charm of their own. excellent care of her guests and welcomes season, from 10 to 17 on weekdays and, if serviceL for travellers wanting to enjoy the Hvanneyri offers single, double and you this winter as Hvanneyri has good booked in advance, during weekends. beautiful nature and winter sports the area family rooms as well as one double room facilities for winter sports enthusiasts. –AMB has to offer. Siglufjörður’s community is with a living room and private facilities. –AMB/SP Snorrastofa Hvanneyri Guesthouse both vibrant and entertaining. In winter, for All rooms have wash basin and television,

Reykholt • 320 Borgarfi rði example, the town turns into a skier’s paradise except the rooms on the ground floor, Adalgata 10 • 580 Siglufi rði +354 433 8000 a dream come true for the outdoor lover. which has wheelchair access. +354 467 1506 [email protected] Hvanneyri Guesthouse has been operating Self-catering facilities in the kitchen, [email protected] www.snorrastofa.is since 1992 and o ers good accommodation to which all guests have access and there www.hvanneyri.com for up to sixty people with either sleeping are bathrooms on all  oors. e Cognac

58 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 59 he dozen inhabitants in 1786, See the Sights clinging to the side of Iceland’s Akureyri is also a service base for many of the longestT  ord, Eyja örður, probably never most important tourist destinations in North imagined their brave struggle would Iceland. From here, you can visit Mývatn, ultimately produce a town of 18,000 Dettifoss—the most powerful waterfall people with all the services of a major city. in Europe, the islands of Hrisey, with its Akureyri is not as big as any of the world’s powerful healing energy and Grímsey, cities but it provides all the features and services straddling the Arctic Circle, see volcanos and expected of a big city in a very compact form, boiling mud pools and, in fact, reach all the so that everything is within a short distance. pearls of the north in under 2 hours. Take, for instance, winter activities like skiing. e family-friendly slopes are Easy Access under 10 minutes from the airport and the Flights from both Ke avik international and hotels. Likewise the horseriding tours, boat Reykjavik airports take just 40 min. Scheduled trips, bird watching, shopping—to name buses leave from Reykjavik Bus Station. ere T  a few—are all so close, you can almost are numerous tours, some of which go through touch them. You name it, it’s close-by. the highlands during summer months. The The weather, with its combination of bus service is free in town. crisp, dry snow and Northern Lights—at N  the peak of their cycle this winter—makes a Akureyri, the Base to Reach All the Northern Sights and Highlights holiday here memorable.

Cultural Centre of the North P  When it comes to culture, Akureyri has it all: museums, art galleries, international exhibitions, conference facilities, music concerts of all genres, opera, theatres and cinemas showing the latest  lms. It has well over 20 restaurants, covering both Icelandic and international cuisine, with top chefs who create their own innovative cuisine. Cafés, each with their individual speciality abound, while local micro- breweries and farms o ering food tasting are a fascinating addition to the food scene. For groups and incentive tours, Akureyri offers such a wide range of activities, events and opportunities, maximising the time available. There are a multitude of tours covering every interest from  ying to caving, from  shing to the Hidden People, Naturally, every common form of walking to whale-watching. transport is available: car, bike, boat, horse, ATV, plane rentals. Every type of Sports of all kinds accommodation is also on hand, from 4-star Sport activities are very popular in the hotels to camp sites. North and many sports are represented in this dynamic community. Akureyri has it all and an outgoing The geothermally–heated swimming friendly welcome, too. pools, with their hot pots and jaccuzzi are open—and very popular—all year round. –ASF Akureyrarstofa e Arctic Open Golf championship is

played on the most northerly 18-hole course Strandgata 12 • 600 Akureyri in the world, just outside the city under +354 450 1050 snow–covered mountains and the midnight [email protected] sun. You can hire clubs if you need them and www.visitakureyri.is relax in the club house afterwards.

60 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 61 W W  W  North A Sailing’s Traditional Oak Schooners Sail to the Whales

Their company, North Sailing, Ólafs örður and Akureyri in Eyja örður breathtaking views and a BBQ on the beach, began in 1994 with one vessel, the  ord. e evening trips, sailing under eating locally-prepared musk ox meat. tarting this winter, North Sailing goes Get the Best of All Worlds weather. With a comfortable viewing Knörrinn, but news spread quickly the midnight sun are special! whale watching right from the centre If you’re visiting Iceland to enjoy the winter area on deck and a warm lounge below, and their tours became so popular that ere is the option to combine a trip Lunch or Dinner at the Harbour Sof the town of Akureyri. Interestingly sports activities and to see the Northern the sturdy, well protected Náttfari is the two more vessels were renovated. with a 2-hour horse riding tour from The beautiful Gamli Baukur rest- enough, they are the first company to Lights, the capital of the North, Akureyri, ideal vessel for the tours and its success e Haukur and then later e Hildur Saltvík Horse Centre, south of Húsavík. au rant, with its large verandas o er scheduled trips from Akureyri—just is the perfect place for you. In winter, rate is very high. Take a look at the were  tted with traditional equipment For the more adventurous, there is a overlooking Húsavík harbour, o ers as they were the first to offer them from Akureyri, on Eyja örður, the longest  ord comments on TripAdvisor.com to get a in the spirit of the 18th century shark 2-day ‘Edge of the Arctic’ tour eating a great dining experience, surrounded Húsavík 18 years ago. ey’re  nding large in Iceland, provides the opportunity to feel for what to expect on the tours. e sailing schooners that used to fish off and sleeping on board, stopping off by maritime memorabilia to complete humpback whales in groups right in the see the families of whales feeding close up reviews are overwhelmingly positive. the coasts of northern Iceland. at Flatey and Grímsey islands. What your tour. With its fresh seafood, both  ord just a short sail away. whereas the bay at Húsavík, where North Today, there are 6 vessels in the  eet. food could be fresher than fish caught local and international dishes, it is a Whale watching at any time is Sailing is ranked as the No. 1 attraction, is Bringing History Back to Life All the boats are outfitted to modern en route and grilled on board! hot venue for live music. exciting, to see these massive creatures more open to the common cold northerly Sailing traditional Icelandic oak  shing boats standards without losing the beauty and Eagle Air flies passengers directly –ASF Norðursigling surfacing—and sometimes, jumping winds in the wintertime. used to be almost a memory of the past until charm of the traditional oak wood  nish. from Reykjavik airport to Húsavík for clear out of the water close to the ship. e tour itself lasts a full three hours brothers, Hörður and Árni Sigurbjarnarson this tour so if you have limited time, Hafnarstétt 9 • 640 Húsavík ousands of people have taken photos and includes hot chocolate and local painstakingly restored a 20-ton oak vessel, Summer Tours for all tastes you really get the most from your visit. +354 464 7272 but the experience of seeing the whales is snack refreshments. Warm over suits, the Knorrinn, to its former glory and started During the summer months, there e ultimate is an 8-day tour,  ying from [email protected] something that will never be forgotten. hats, gloves, blankets and raincoats taking visitors whale and pu n watching are up to 12 tours daily from Húsavík Reykja vik airport to Green land, sailing on www.nordursigling.is It is amazing to get so close to them. are available in case of any changes in from the northern town of Húsavík. alone, not to mention sailings from the schooner, ‘Hildur’, with treks inland to

62 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 63 Further west at Tröllskagi, The Troll Peninsula, Sport Tours offer Snowmobile Tours, Cat Skiing, Cat Boarding, Hiking T Activity Tours P with Sport Tours Q are Dynamic Whatever W the Season and Horse riding in the mountains. Cat celand has amazingly diverse Skiing and Cat Boarding just below the B The Bakery with  a Healthy BDose of Delicious  A Innovation possibilities to enjoy in Spring, Arctic Circle is quite unique. You can pen every morning at 6.30 for the Summer,I Autumn or Winter. Until literally ski from top of the world to sea-level early risers and travellers, Bakarí recently, the fantastic winter season was and as the mountains rise from the ocean. viðO brúna is a natural stop for a healthy not available for tourists as the Icelanders breakfast, lunch or evening take-away. e themselves were not keen on the Luxury Cottages shelves are packed with all kinds of breads, unforeseen adventures brought on by the You can go deep sea  shing, whale watching pastries, cakes and sandwiches—which, magnificent northern winds, with their and shore  shing in Eyja örður along the along with co ee make a hearty meal. snow and ice. But, as winters in Iceland way. While enjoying all these various are often still and sunny, the beauty of the activities, the best place to stay is at the Invite your girlfriend for poetry Après-ski Party endlessly white landscape was undeniable From Ocean Bed to Northern Lights cottages provided by Sport Tours at the Ytri- The café area is a cosy place; the walls e bakery aims to provide the best possible and gradually the Icelanders learned to Iceland is geologically young and, indeed, Vík farm. It is a beautifully peaceful place, are tastefully decorated with pictures of service. You can order ahead—handy for groups enjoy its vastness through a variety of is still being sculpted—and that includes located on the west side of Eyjafjörður, a number of different bridges around and parties. After skiing the slopes less than 10 sports. en, of course, they wanted the the ocean-floors. Sport Tours offer an between Akureyri and Dalvik, close to the Iceland. The hand-painted tables deserve min away, it’s the ideal place to come to the whole world to enjoy them, too. exceptional diving tour to the unique diving shoreline, with a glorious and unobstructed special mention, too; each with a di erent bakery to warm up over co ee or soup and some Sport Tours is an Activity Travel Agency sites in Eyja örður where you can inspect view across the fjord. The cottages are map on it, showing the direction from one of of those delicious pastries with your friends. in North Iceland but operating all over the the staglamites, the geothermal chimneys of different sizes and can accommodate Iceland’s towns right to the bakery and each country all year round, o ering a variety rising from the interesting lava-moulded between 2–16 people. All the cottages have a one inscribed with a small poem! buns or sandwiches filled with a variety You’ll fi nd the bakery right behind of tailor-made and activity-packed tours landscape underneath the waves. fully equipped kitchen and bathroom and a of salads, meats and cheeses. Hot pizza the Gleratorg shopping centre. for groups and individuals, both private e Super Jeep tours to all the natural private geothermal hot-tub on the verandah. is also available and on Thursdays, the –ASF and scheduled tours. They have been wonders of North Iceland like Dettifoss, –SS Bread Bowl—with a di erence Bakaríið við brúna Sport Tours A very tasty idea is the bread bowl. Take bakery serves a traditional Icelandic fish organising package tours for many years Ásbyrgi, Lake Myvatn, Goðafoss, Askja a round loaf, cut off the top, scoop out dish. Everything is hand-made here with Gleráreyrum 2 • 600 Akureyri and are true specialists on the excitement and many more, are truly mystical and Melbrún 2 • 621 Dalvík the insides and pour in fresh, hot soup. the healthiest of ingredients. +354 461 2700 and action to be experienced in Iceland’s inspiring. e other-worldly pristine days +354 461 2968 You may have had bread with soup The delicatessen has a range of natural, [email protected] spectacular nature along with relaxation gradually fade into the afternoon dusk, [email protected] before—but never like this. It was a locally-produced herbal teas and jams, www.vu2012.ispcp-01.garun-vefl ausnir.is in geothermal water, the best culinary bringing on the Northern Lights and www.sporttours.is delicious lunch—especially with the fish oils and fresh pesto. choices and very good accommodation. possibly, the dancing elves.

64 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 65 L Pedromyndir Camera H Shop P has been in Akureyri for two generations of the Canon EOS camera. Today, he teaches órhallur Jónsson is an accomplished Pedro-Pictures in Akureyri in 1965 but my photography in Akureyri and in Reykjavik. amateur photographer who once sold a wife and I took over the business in 2001.” “The autumn is my favourite time of the photographÞ to the USA Today. His striking Þórhallur says the business has changed year to photograph because of the vivid image shot at midnight in June some years significantly since he started with the autumn yellow and red colours. I love shooting ago, shows a man playing golf under the company at only 18 years of age. “We in the outdoors, and I love capturing moments red and yellow glow of the Arctic midnight mostly used to develop films and print in a photograph which I can show others.” – sun. Þórhallur regularly contributes pictures, but today, our business depends Pedromyndir ehf SHV photographs in the Icelandic Times. on camera sales and service.”

Skipagata 16 • 600 Akureyri Photography In Changing Times Teaching, Training and Promoting +354 462 3520 “Photography has been my work and Þórhallur was one of the founders of the [email protected] passion for the past 26 years,” says Akureyri Camera Club in 1991. He’s www.pedro.is Þórhallur. “My father in law founded published a book on how to get the most out Aðalbakarí Great variety of freshly baked breads, buns, sandwiches, pastries and cakes along with a lunch menu of soups and pasta.

Aðalgata 28 • 580 Siglufjörður +354 4671720

One of Akureyri’s best kept secrets is the recipe for North Iceland’s most famous ice cream. Treasured in the family for over 100 years - more delicious than anything you ever tasted! Welcome to Brynja!

Aðalstræti 3 • 600 Akureyri +354 462 4478 [email protected]

66 www.icelandictimes.com Snacking on Souvenirs Souvenirs in the form of food are a relatively new feature in Iceland. Now every region has their specialities and the variety of those edible keepsakes grows daily. Hús Handanna has quite a few East Icelandic delicacies meant to tickle your taste buds or bring to loved ones for a delicious surprise. Golden turnip, chutney with apricots and angelica are among these savoury bits and with Aust rskar Krásir o ering a wide range of organically grown products, friends and family back home will be able to enjoy their pancakes with Icelandic birch syrup or rhubarb jam and cream while listening to stories about the native elves and trolls. With attention on the excellence of their products, the gallery of Hús Handanna prides itself on nothing but the best for Enter partners Rósa & Zdenek sale and show. An atmosphere of warmth e longing to make a signi cantly positive and creativity welcomes its visitors, while difference, combined with an interest in the interiors, displays and installation of design, led partners Rósa Valtingojer and the products are expertly done under the Zdenek Patak together in Reykjavík 2006. supervision of local designers. Rósa, a textile and ceramic designer Every month sees a special emphasis Introducing local designers originally from East Iceland, introduced on one particular artist of the month—as Born in 1974, Ríkey graduated spring 2003 graphic designer, Zdenek, to her hometown well as the designer of the month—with from the Haandarbejdes Fremmes Seminarium in Stöðvar örður, where they now live and special focus on their work and often in Copenhagen, majoring in textile and envision future locations for sustainable special offers on their creation. embroidery. Since graduation she has been communities all over Iceland and worldwide. Hús Handanna shares their building designing and working e ectively on projects Designing for, and running Mupimup! with the local Tourist Information Centre, under her own name as well as co-designing a Recycled by Design, the couple’s design so after enjoying the arts and crafts, visitors successful clothing line for boys, Húnihún. approach is focused on post-consumerism are able to  nd useful information before Ríkey started creating collars in 2006 and recycling industrial waste. heading towards another adventure. with the idea of design which would An example of their design made from combine both fashion and functionality. recycled plastic bottles is a beautiful light Knowing that jackets and coats can often called Crystalic Globe, Blossoming Flower use a little pizazz, her beautiful designs around or 42 PET. (PET referring to material the neck can embellish and completely change widely used for plastic bottles). an out t. Inspired by lace and embroidered Created from forty-two, two litre plastic Filled with some of the most intriguing collars from the Romantic era, Ríkey bottles, the lampshade is delicately woven designs that East Iceland has to o er, there is believes that such mystic femininity adds into branches that are curled together a wide selection of paintings, beautiful ceramic a great touch to modern style fashion. forming whimsical leaves. products, quality handcrafts made of reindeer Handmade from the finest wool, The material is about 400 metres skin, reindeer antlers and local woodwork. sometimes mixed with mohair, silk or of hand-cut bottles which would take While the majority of items come from kashmir, the collars are often decorated approximately 600 years to decompose in East Iceland, some of the design work with Ríkey’s old jewellery from her days the ground. e inner construction is made T Quality handcraft E at the East Iceland  Crossroads   E comes from other areas of the country. travelling the world. out of plexiglass, industrial waste from n the banks of Lagar jót river located Magic Happens at the Crossroads All beautifully designed and crafted, e main decor is recycled vintage lace plexiglass company Plexigler ehf. in East Iceland, we find the capital According to old Icelandic folklore, when many items transcend the boundaries doilies—usually crocheted or tatted, that ofO the east, Egilsstaðir. With a population coming to a crossroads, one should stop between memorabilia and art. the designer dyes, arranges and mixes with Hús Handanna is defi nitely a place of just over two thousand people, the town and envision what greatness lies ahead and Local food delicacies from Austfirskar embroidery, gems and pearls, giving each where magic happens! Welcome to of Egilsstaðir can trace its urbanization by magic it will all come true. Krásir (East Iceland Delicacies) which and every collar a unique feel. the Entrance to the East! to a farmer who laid the groundwork In the heart of Egilsstaðir, at the oversees the production of local artisanal –SP Hús Handanna for increased commerce and services by busiest crossroads in East Iceland, sits the foods, is also featured at Hús Handanna. Tatting is a technique for handcrafting a constructing a large residential building enchanting Hús Handanna, known for its East Iceland Delicacies was founded particularly durable lace constructed by a Miðvangur 1 • 700 Egilsstaðir there at the start of the 20th century. e creative and quality handicraft from around in February 2009 in Egilsstaðir to series of knots and loops. Tatting can be +354 471 2433 farmer was con dent in his choice of land East Iceland. The gallery specialises in reinforce the East Iceland food heritage used to make lace edging as well as doilies, [email protected] and predicted ‘the crossroads will be here’, selling and promoting East Icelandic quality and to combine the forces of those collars, and other decorative pieces. On Facebook which later proved true. design, both creative and skilfully made. involved in local food production.

68 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 69 Hótel Aldan also houses the restaurant, a treasure on its own, where traditional lamb and langoustine dishes, as well as fresh fish from the fjord are featured. Many dishes are seasoned with herbs, handpicked from the mountains above the  ord every summer. Collected specially for the restaurant, these fragrant  owers and herbs give Hótel Aldan’s signature dishes their distinctive  air. e classy restaurant is perfect for a romantic autumn evening dinner in elegant surroundings on the edge of the world. Hótel Snæfell, a more budget option, has ASeyðisfjörður’s C Hótel  Aldan surrounds   Guests P with Elegance total of nine rooms in a charming wooden hen arriving at one of the furthest Aldan is located in two of those gems, divided house from 1908 located at the mouth of the points in East Iceland, surrounded into Hótel Aldan and Hótel Snæfell. Fjarðará River with views across the  ord. byW magni cent views, one can almost feel Hótel Aldan is in what used to be the bank Recreational highlights include mid- the sparks of creativity combined with the of Seyðis örður for almost a century. Elegantly night kayaking (in summer only), peacefulness the area has to o er. Known furnished with antiques imported from attempting the challenging ‘Seven Peaks as something of a trendy place, musicians Denmark and soft furnishings from India, the Hike’, mountain biking, sea angling and and artists from all over Iceland and abroad bedrooms are the picture of gentle relaxation, bird watching at Skálanes. –SP have been attracted to Seyðisfjörður’s especially when guests can cherish the starry Hótel Aldan  ourishing cultural scene. night sky from the skylights above their beds.

Several of the rooms boast adjoining Norðurgötu 2 • 710 Seyðisfi rði Starry Nights and Stellar Food sleeping quarters in a recessed alcove, which +354 472 1277 popular signature hamburger is topped Seyðis örður’s Norwegian–style wooden are sure to be a popular cosy nook for children. [email protected] Kaffi Hornið Hits the Spot with mounds of melted cheese, bacon, houses, dating from early 20th century, Immaculately clean rooms with quality linens www.hotelaldan.com E   H  onions and mushrooms, and comes with a make the village unique in Iceland. Hótel and down duvets add a touch of luxury. a Hornið in Höfn í Horna rði has Specialties of the House generous portion of french fries. Another a friendly, laid back atmosphere that Chef Ingólfur o ers a variety of absolutely  lling lunch option is the legendary club putsK you at ease the moment you walk in fresh langoustine dishes including pasta sandwich, which is popular among locals. the door. The Finnish wooden interior with langoustine in a cognac-cream sauce, BReyðarfjörður’s Fjarðarhótel M opens up the beauty  of the F area and cosy tea lights  ickering on each table roasted langoustine with vegetables and Craving vegetables lend a feeling of warmth to this established garlic sauce, grilled langoustine with If somewhere along your way you didn’t jarðarhótel, a hotel in the middle of groups will find this hotel well-suited for restaurant, which has been run by the same salad and even an intriguing langoustine get your daily dose of fresh vegetables, Reyðar örður, which lies close to both their needs. All rooms feature an en suite couple, Ingólfur Einarsson and Kristin pizza. Many of the seafood dishes come Kaffi Hornið offers a lunchtime soup with F ord and mountains, provides ample room bathroom, free wireless Internet access and Óladóttir since it opened 13 years ago. with a fabulously crunchy Swiss rösti homemade bread and your choice of vegetables for conferences or special occasions. With a television. Guests are a short walk from Making use of the celebrated ingredients which attests to Ingólfur’s 2 years of chef from the salad bar, available daily until 4 pm. room for 20 to 50 people, large and small Reyðar örður’s expansive  ord and mountain from the Vatnajökull region as much as training in Zermatt, Switzerland. Last, but not least, there is a  ne selection possible, Kaffi Hornið puts emphasis on of homemade cakes and desserts including hiking trails, which Fjarðarhótel’s friendly the prized langoustine for which Höfn A hamburger calling? organic ice cream from the nearby Árbær sta will happily direct guests to. is known. Not to be confused the North In case you are homesick for a hamburger, dairy farm. The addition of Icelandic Fjarðarhótel’s restaurant melds local American lobster, langoustine is also called Ka Hornið’s thick and juicy hamburgers liquorice to many of the more ordinary Icelandic fare like fish, lamb and beef with Dublin Bay prawns, Norway lobster or will fit the bill, easily putting others to  avours like chocolate and vanilla turns this the  avours of a steak house, with entrées like scampi and imparts a more delicate  avour shame. Made with 120 g of pure Icelandic ice cream into a uniquely Icelandic dairy and texture than their larger cousins. beef from nearby farms, Ka Hornið’s ever treat that is hard to resist.  aming lamb crown alongside mouth-watering Western steak and spare ribs. Of course, no Icelandic restaurant would be complete Not to be missed Located right on the main road that passes without dishes of freshly caught  sh featured through the centre of Höfn, Ingólfur and daily. Fjarðarhótel also features a well-rounded Kristín welcome you to pop in for a friendly selection of wines, spirits and beer. meal whenever you are in town.

– –EMV Fjarðarhótel KB Kaffi Hornið

Búðareyri 6 • 730 Reyðarfi rði Hafnarbraut 42 • 780 Höfn +354 474 1600 +354 478 2600 [email protected] kaffi [email protected] www.fjardarhotel.is www.kaffi hornid.is

70 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 71 W  More than meets the eye e keep seeing this word pop up 30 countries met in France to sign the Enter Iceland Various options for accommodation are G in the media nowadays,A but who International Declaration of the Rights of Katla Geopark is Iceland’s first and only available in the Katla Geopark. Everyone knowsW what it really means? In the Greek the Memory of the Earth, a document that Geopark, becoming a member of the European should be able to find accommodation to language, geo means earth. From this root advocates international consideration of the Geopark Network in 2011. It is located in their taste from hotels, hostels, guesthouses we get words like geography (the study of protection of geological heritage. In 1997, the southern part of Iceland and follows the and farm holidays, to camping grounds, the earth and its surface features), geometry two geologists, a Frenchman and a Greek, borders of three municipalities, Skaftárhreppur, summer cabins, mountain lodges or (measurement of the earth) and terms like came up with the idea of forming a network Mýrdalshreppur and Rangárþing-eystra. Its community halls. Restaurants and cafés geopolitics, which refers to the relationship of geoparks across Europe. name originates from one of the best known offer gastronomic pleasures using local between politics and geography. But a e new concept began to catch on and volcanoes in the area, Katla, which lies under products which have appeared increasingly geopark as a concept, encompasses much in 2000, the European Geopark Network the Mýrdalsjökull Icecap. on menus in the last few years. Katla more than just a vast tract of protected was formally created. Now with 50 members The mission of the Katla Geopark is to Geopark offers great opportunities for land, however magni cent, set aside for our in 19 European countries, the movement enhance co-operation between all three activities and adventures—ice climbing enjoyment and however simplistic the word continues to add more members to the municipalities with the aim of promoting and glacier walking, hiking, caving, horse- may sound at  rst glance. growing geopark network every year. sustainable development within the territory riding, sightseeing, angling, jeep safaris, Here is the o cial UNESCO de nition of in the  eld of geotourism together with the quad bike tours, snowmobile tours and golf. the word geopark: A territory encompassing A Worldwide Phenomenon preservation of natural and cultural values. Katla Geopark is accessible all year round; one or more sites of scienti c importance, not As other countries of the world became Katla Geopark is, in every sense, the land each season has its own magical charm in only for geological reasons but also by virtue of interested in forming their own geoparks, of fire and ice, with its towering glaciers this spectacular natural paradise. its archaeological, ecological or cultural value. the European Geopark Network began and active volcanoes. These forces are discussing the possibility of forming a constantly shaping the land and in uenced e Park of the Future A bit of history global network of geoparks with UNESCO, where people settled. rough the centuries, The plans for the next few years for Katla The origins of the geopark concept date modelled on the long-established UNESCO man and nature have a ected the region’s Geopark involve a holistic methodology which the Katla Geopark; providing educational back to the late 1960’s, when a group World Heritage Site network. is led to the history. However, there are other amazing includes di erent activities, such as creating material and services for tourists and of scientists recognised the need for creation of the Global Geoparks Network landscapes in the area; mountains, lakes, new opportunities for business development, students; carrying out targeted marketing safeguarding the world’s natural resources. in 2004, which today boasts 90 members in black sandy beaches, green pastures and such as encouraging local food production activities to promote the area as an all year Over the years, momentum slowly began 26 countries around the world, with China meadows, powerful glacial rivers, beautiful of culinary interest for visitors; improving round tourist attraction and to provide to grow and by 1991, delegates from over leading the way with 26 geoparks. waterfalls and vast lava  elds. the visitor infrastructure and facilities in speci c information for geo-tourists. –EMV

72 www.icelandictimes.com 73 playthings where children and families can play together in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Ragnar Matthías Sigurðsson, youth- and sports councilman in Þorlákshöfn, says that the swimming pool is already known for its cleanliness and quiet atmosphere. “Last week I was talking to a gentleman who has been coming here regularly from Reykjavik and he calls the pool his little  tting for this neat and tidy dairy farm secret. The reason is that this is not your that opened its doors to travellers in 1991. typical swimming pool, where you have only There are two self-contained cottages an inch between you and the person sitting that can sleep up to 6 people each and next to you. The inside pool is especially come complete with jacuzzi and gas popular as it is hotter and shallower than barbecue, making it an ideal retreat T A Secret SwimmingI Pool in Þorlákshöfn P to Relax C in usual indoor pools at 34-35°C, so during the in a picture post-card perfect setting. he Icelandic swimming pool culture is discuss politics, gossip and the weather. Each colder winter days, our guests like to lie inside Visitors are welcome to watch the something that visitors shouldn’t miss. swimming pool has its own character and in the warmth and relax,” says Ragnar. milking of Ásólfsskáli’s 50 cows, hike SwimmingT pools serve as meeting points, Icelanders are constantly trying new pools, e town of Þorlákshöfn is 30 minutes from the foothills along marked trails or visit where people from all walks of life meet and looking for the ultimate swimming pool. Reykjavik by the coast. Close by the swimming the picturesque 19th century Ásólfsskáli e new swimming pool in Þorlákshöfn has pool you’ll  nd walking trails to the coast and church that presides over the landscape. been called a secret swimming pool by some the exceptional Strandakirkja church. –VAG Ásólfsskáli –EMV Reykjavik residents, looking for a more relaxed Þorlákshöfn Pool Á Living under Eyjafjallajökull FVolcano H setting and less crowded hot tubs, while giving

t’s one of those places that is easy to miss Farm seems to magically come into focus Ásólfsskála • 861 Hvolsvelli the kids a swimming adventure land to play in. Hafnarberg 41 • 815 Þorlákshöfn if you are rushing along the ring road on in a way that you might not expect. +354 487 8989 The pool was built in 2008 and features +354 480 3890 Iceland’sI majestic south coast. Sharing the It won the 2011 award for being the [email protected] a 25-metre outdoor swimming pool, two [email protected] peaceful location just below Eyja allajökull most beautiful farm in Rangárthing- www.asolfsskali.is hot tubs, a sauna, water slide and an indoor www.swimminginiceland.com with a handful of other farms, Ásólfsskáli eystra county and the honour is wholly swimming pool, filled with colourful

EDine on Delicious A T  Langoustines S at Eyrarbakki’s Rauða húsið visit to Iceland is not complete without Iceland was late to discover this seafood a visit to the birthplace of the Icelandic delicacy. Lobster fishing was born off the lobsterA industry. Here, you can indulge in shores of Eyrarbakki in 1954. In fact, it was not a feast of the finest Icelandic seafood at till then that the Langoustine was discovered the Rauða húsið (Red House) restaurant, to be not only edible, but delicious, too! found in the picturesque seaside village of Care is taken to maintain the sense of Eyrarbakki. In this beautiful red house, a history within the restaurant. e red house short drive from Reykjavik, langoustines are boasts beautiful original wooden  oorboards it o with one of the Rauða húsið’s signature suggest activities: everything from glacier served in a charming atmosphere amidst a dating back to 1919. If you arrive by noon, desserts. Serving a variety of delicious fish tours, helicopter sightseeing, snowmobiling, rich and well-preserved history. a hearty bowl of langoustine soup or a light and meat dishes, the restaurant’s cuisine is a Super-Jeep tours, horse riding and dog Now a tranquil village, Eyrarbakki was seafood salad sets you up for the day. Choose mix of international and Icelandic foods, all SÁrhús is a Beautiful    Spot to S Stay in South Iceland sledding to gol ng, swimming, river rafting once an important trading centre in Iceland. an evening of indulgence and you can savour featuring local ingredients. eep in the heart of South Iceland, close guests with both traditional cuisine and and fresh water  shing. Many of its houses were built in the early the Catch of the Day, consisting of three Enjoy a walk around the village either to Hella, a beautifully inviting area specialities such as lobster, shellfish, This is a well-priced accommodation 1900’s and the village maintains that turn- di erent seafood dishes. Pair a bottle of  ne before or after a meal at the Rauða húsið. appears,D just o the right side of the road. salmon and the “catch of the day”. in South Iceland, located in a peaceful of-the-century charm and atmosphere. wine with any of the menu’s o erings and cap The walk could continue along the Surrounded by Icelandic nature, Árhús o ers environment, easy to get around during beautiful black beaches only few minutes exclusive and peaceful accommodation by Abundance of Activities winter and ideal for you to experience the away from the village. A relaxing stroll by the River Rangá, one of the best known Arriving at Árhús in winter, just o Iceland’s wonders of Iceland. the water makes the visit complete. salmon rivers in Iceland. Riverfront Ring Road, the feeling is like stepping into –SP –ASF Árhús Rauða Húsið cottages, alluring yet simple, are the perfect a world  lled with magic. While Árhús is a combination with the Café Árhús rest- great location for viewing Northern Lights Rangárbakkar 6 • 850 Hella Búðarstíg 4 • 820 Eyrarbakka aurant, its terrace overlooking the river. in the wintertime, this winter wonderland +354 487 5577 +354 483 3333 Offering an á la carte menu with o ers just about anything travellers can think [email protected] [email protected] an emphasis on high quality Icelandic off. Well-connected in their community, www.arhus.is www.raudahusid.is food, Café Árhús restaurant tempts its the staff at Árhús is more than happy to

74 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 75 ALaugarvatn’s T Lindin  Restaurant W & Café Bistro S indin Restaurant & Café Bistro, located featuring only wild caught  sh and seafood, on the banks of Lake Laugarvatn, stands game and lamb. Exotic dishes like grilled onL a  rm foundation of culinary excellence reindeer and cormorant with wild mushroom that has attracted patrons from around the sauce and arctic char tartare with coconut allergenic and supremely comfortable, with world. Owner and head chef, Baldur Öxdal sauce are featured on the menu. Always ahead fair-trade organic linens. Guests will notice Halldórsson trained at the Culinary Institute of his game, you can be sure of  nding new ION Luxury Adventure Hotel frees you from the stress and mundane a modern, natural and warm aesthetic that of America in New York in 1986–1987, and and exciting additions to his dessert menus B  C  immediately makes them feel at home with received training as a pastry chef at the such as his delectable chocolate mousse with ooking for the extraordinary? A brand menu is focused on contemporary native a luxurious attention to detail. rough the prestigious Richemont Professional School raspberry sauce, with watermelon pieces and new hotel is opening in Iceland in fare, with emphasis on sustainable, farm- Icelandic wool throws, art and  ower vases, in Lucerne from 1988–1989, where he white chocolate foam and his bilberry skyr JanuaryL 2013; a hotel which will revitalise fresh ingredients. hand-blown by local artisans, guests will developed his interest in the art of chocolate mousse with crow berries and rhubarb. your well being and pamper all your senses. ION’s softly lit lounge is the perfect place enjoy a new perspective on rural hospitality. and learnt the secrets behind a great dessert. ION hotel is located at Nesjavellir, a for guests to connect with family and friends After his training abroad was completed, Only the freshest 40 min. drive from Reykjavik, where the over distinctive local ales or pick a perch In the Centre of Activities Baldur began something of a culinary Passionate about food, Baldur insists on force of nature merges with exceptional from which to gaze up through the tall, Adventurous visitors can truly experience revolution in Reykjavik, working at many the absolute purity and freshness of all his e Verdict tranquillity and the landscape tells stories of cantilevered windows to the stars. south-west Iceland’s remarkable ever- of the top hotels and restaurants, creating ingredients—not too di cult a task when Taking our coffee and dessert out on the Mother Nature’s more turbulent times. With changing natural beauty by choosing from a spectacular and sophisticated desserts that you are located in the heart of Iceland’s spacious terrace overlooking a lush lakeside relatively easy hiking trails crisscrossing Become Revitalised wide range of activities year-round, from the were hitherto unknown in the capital. ‘greenhouse belt’ where he can take his garden, no less than 2 famous volcanoes, the surrounding hills and mountains and ION’s spa seamlessly connects its interior extreme to the sublime. is region o ers pick of the choicest fruits and vegetables Hekla and Eyja allajökull were both visible through centuries-old lava fields to Lake to the outdoors through a series of textural opportunities for hot spring picnics, ice Mecca of Icelandic wild game grown in the area year round. The on the eastern horizon. The setting was Þingvallavatn, the breathtaking sights, transitions designed to help guests peel away climbing, horseback riding, bird watching, Baldur took over Lindin Restaurant in 2002 restaurant even has its own small kitchen magical, the coffee, among the best we’ve the perfect stillness and purity are sure to urban stress. From the entry way, through stargazing, diving or snorkelling, caving, which is known as the ‘Mecca of Icelandic wild garden providing a fresh supply of rhubarb, tasted in Iceland and the chocolate mousse... nourish guests’ inner peace. naturally adorned treatment areas and out white-water rafting, snowmobile safaris, game’, priding itself on its year round menu chervil and red and black currants. was, well...simply divine. onto the stone deck of a lovely Jacuzzi, jeep tours, glacier walks,  y  shing for trout Come Apart from the Busy Scene  owing continually like a river, guests are and arctic char, and more. In the heart of the Golden Circle ION Hotel is designed to inspire, revitalise transported and revitalised. Lindin is located in the village of Laugarvatn, and enable guests to escape the mundane. Each ION private room boasts incredible Event and Incentive Tours Take Note beside the natural steam baths and pool at Inside and out, they are surrounded by a views. Each private bath is environmentally Looking to host an event that will be Fontana Spa. The 45 min scenic drive from visual symphony. e restaurant embodies responsible with water-saving shower remembered for all the right reasons? ION Reykjavik takes you through enchanting the local  avour and spirit of Iceland. e systems. The king-size beds are hypo hotel‘s conference and meeting facilities can landscapes between Geysir and Gullfoss and accommodate up to 60 people in its larger ingvellir, making this an excellent day trip venue and 20 in the smaller meeting room. in one of the most scenic areas of Iceland. Check ION hotel is already open for booking. For the opening times on the website. further information please contact them. –EMV –SS Lindin Restaurant ION Hotel

Lindarbraut 2 • 840 Laugarvatni Nesjavöllum • 801 Selfoss +354 486 1262 +354 482 3415 [email protected] [email protected] www.laugarvatn.is www.ioniceland.is

76 www.icelandictimes.com www.icelandictimes.com 77 Northern Lights and Civilisation Iceland is perhaps the most accessible N  L But I Don’t~ WantM My Grandchild P to be Crosseyed place in the world to view the Northern he Northern Lights are an amazing Northern Lights and Civilisation Best Time to See the Lights Lights. In winter, after dark, it is possible phenomenon for all but for one tourist Iceland is perhaps the most accessible Ragna Sveinsdóttir says the lights are to see the lights the moment you step out of guideT in Iceland, it is more than just that— place in the world to view the Northern particularly good this year as we’re coming close Iceland’s international airport terminal. e it is her great passion in life. “I love the Lights. In winter, after dark, it is possible to the 11-year peak in sunspot activity predicted international airport is only 35 miles from Northern Lights and, in recent years, I’ve to see the lights the moment you step in 2013. “More solar activity means more the nation’s capital city. Other suitable places turned my attention increasingly to the sky out of Iceland’s international airport Northern Lights activity; it’s as simple as that. in the world in which to see the Northern and space phenomena,” says seasoned tourist terminal. The international airport is Closer to the peak, we can expect more nights lit Lights are quite remote. ey include the guide Ragna Sigrún Sveinsdóttir. only 35 miles from the nation’s capital by Northern Lights on the average than at other northern parts of Canada, Southern half city. Other suitable places in the world times. 2012 was excellent and we’re looking of Greenland, northern parts of Norway, in which to see the Northern Lights are forward to another two or three fantastic years. Sweden, Finland and Russia. quite remote. They include the northern It is possible to see the Lights in Iceland from parts of Canada, Southern half of end of August to mid-April. Depending on Remember to Dress Warmly Greenland, northern parts of Norway, conditions, of course, it is possible to see the e Northern Lights attract people from with thick lining, a scarf, a warm hat, one or I Don’t Want My Child to be Cross-Eyed Sweden, Finland and Russia. lights anytime it is dark. Statistically speaking, all over the world. “English and Americans two woollen jerseys and a heavy coat.” Superstition has surrounded the Lights from the best time of the day to see them is late are probably the most numerous. We time immemorial. In France and Italy, the How to View the Northern Lights evening through to early morning.” also get people from various countries in e Expert’s Favourite Places Lights struck fear into the population. ey More and more people visit Iceland Europe, Asia, Central America and Africa. “It’s a great privilege to live in Iceland and to rarely appeared that far south and people in the winter. First time visitors often It doesn’t seem to matter where people be able to admire the Northern Lights on most were shaken by the sight, believing the expect to see the lights the moment they come from, everyone is interested in the clear nights,” says Sveinsdóttir who has guided Lights to be a warning of illness, plague or step foot in the country, which of course Lights. e Japanese have a special interest for the Reykjavik-based bus tour operator, death. “It was a common belief, at least in is quite possible but not always true. in them because seeing them symbolises Reykjavik Excursions for years. “Sometimes some parts of Iceland, that pregnant women Viewing Northern lights must meet fertility and success in private life.” it’s possible to see the lights from Reykjavik who looked at the lights would give birth to five criteria. First, it has to be night One important thing to remember when but for the best view, it is necessary to drive cross-eyed children. I know one story from as daylight drowns out the faint light searching for the Lights, Sveinsdóttir says, is to out of the city to get away from the electric Langanes peninsula in the north east part emitted by the Northern Lights. Second, dress warmly. “It can get cold while standing lights. The tours I lead take about 3 hours of the country. In 1960, a young foreign skies must be clear or partly clear. Third, outside the bus on a mountain pass in the and I must admit that I’m still, after all these pregnant woman was visiting her Icelandic there has to be an eruption on the sun. middle of the winter. One might have to wait years, equally excited to see the Lights as my mother in law with her husband. One night Fourth, the solar wind which carries fine a while for the Lights. When they appear guests. My favourite places to search for the the Northern Lights appeared. As the couple particles ejected from eruptions on the you want to spend time outside watching the Northern Lights in the vicinity of Reykjavik watched the display in awe the mother in law sun has to be directed towards Earth. amazing display and it is much more enjoyable are Þingvellir National park, Hvalfjörður appeared, and dragged her daughter in law Fifth, the particles from the eruptions if you’re not freezing cold. Personally, I wear  ord, Melasveit, Vatnsleysuströnd, Ölfus and into the house exclaiming, “I don’t want my must reach the Earth’s magnetic field. warm shoes and warm socks, leather gloves Grímsnes in the south. grandchild to be crosseyed!” –SHV

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