LE ROY PENNYSAVER & NEWS - MARCH 5, 2017 Soups On Soup of the Evening, Beautiful Soup recipe is a little shorter than in England making mock turtle Franatelli’s. It was one of soup with a calf’s head. And eighty recipes that she copied in then he gave away samples. a little book in 1823 and brought Everyone thought it was great. with her to LeRoy when she and He didn’t tell them it was mock Jacob moved to town. Whether turtle soup. Actually, at one she ever made mock turtle soup, time Campbell’s made mock or had her cook make mock turtle soup. Today you can buy turtle soup isn’t known. Char- Worthman’s mock turtle soup. lotte’s recipe: It is absolutely delicious. It’s After boiling the been made in Cincinnati since head cut it in pieces & reduce 1920. the liquor. The head is boiled While doing some re- to make the gravy with some search about mock turtle soup, butter and flour, then put your I discovered that Lewis Car- pieces in the browning, with a roll included a character, Mock teaspoonful of pepper, one of Turtle in Alice in Wonderland thyme, one large onion cut fine, which was published in 1865. the rind of lemon sliced fine, a The Queen of Hearts introduces tea cup of the ketchup, half (?) Alice to the Gryphon who takes of wine, cloves, mace and a lit- her to the Mock Turtle. He is tle pimento, a few pieces of lean very sad, and tells Alice that he veal cut longways. After laying used to be a real turtle in school. your layers, put as much gravy He sings a sorrowful song.: to it as to cover it, let it simmer Beautiful Soup, so rich and one hour. green, What is important is Waiting in a hot tureen! that almost all of the mock turtle Who for such dainties would soup recipes that I have found, not stoop? include the same herbs. Many Soup of the evening, beautiful include chopped hard boiled soup! eggs. Others include little In 1999, Alice in Won- meatballs, made of veal. Most derland was made into a movie The Gryphon and the Mock Turtle, created by Lewis Carroll of them include some type of and Gene Wilder is Mock Turtle ketchup – either mushroom or and he sings the soulful song. When I called Sean at the D&R turtle soup. His recipe is over tomato and all of them include a Depot to go over the menu for a page long, with details about red wine and lemon zest. I men- the annual Dinner Auction at preparation: “get a proper sized tion lemons, because, lemons LeRoy House this weekend, I stockpot and after having but- were rare in upstate New York suggested we start dinner with tered the bottom thereof, place in the early 1800s, yet Char- one of Charlotte LeRoy’s soups. in it four slices of raw ham, two lotte’s recipe book contains "It’s delicious. A very rich beef large knuckles of veal, and an many recipes that use lemons broth with a little veal and sea- old hen partially roasted, moist- - -for cakes, puddings, jellies, soned with wine and lemon en with two quarts of broth and even Mrs. Wadsworth’s lemon zest. But folks might have trou- put the stockpot on the stove- liquor. ble with the name - - mock tur- fire to boil until the broth is re- Although I enjoy tle soup." The history of mock duced to a glaze, then instantly the challenge of cooking 19th turtle soup is fascinating. In the slacken the heat by covering the century recipes over the open 1700s, soup made with sea tur- fire with ashes and then leave hearth, I have never had much tle was very popular but it was the soup to color itself gradual- interest in making mock turtle very expensive. If you had the ly.” The base for the soup was soup from scratch – although I money, you could buy a sea tur- a calf’s head. (And no - - Sean have prepared snapping turtle tle and start the long laborious is not using a calf’s head to a couple of times. First it’s im- process of making a wonderful make the mock turtle soup on possible to buy a scalded calf’s soup. So cooks looked for a way Saturday night!) As most cooks head. I read one recipe that men- to make a soup that had the rich- know, a rich stock is made by tions that it’s important to keep ness of turtle soup, but wasn’t as using soup bones that are sim- the windpipe inside the pot, expensive. So recipes for mock mered for hours. It is a good because when it boils, it could turtle soup abounded. Even use of something that might be siphon the broth out of the pot. Queen Victoria’s chef, Fran- thrown away. Actually, I was able to find a catelli had a recipe for mock Charlotte LeRoy’s Utube piece that showed a chef