The Inside: Degrees of SuccessPg. 12 ST. JOHN’S NEW CEO?/3 A MALL-BASED URBAN/8 WWD WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The THURSDAYRetailers’ Daily Newspaper • May 13, 2004 • $2.00 List Sportswear Spare Parts NEW YORK — While Giorgio Armani is known for his clean lines and sharp cuts, he’s just as deft at showing off a girl’s natural assets. His Le Collezioni resort line features plenty of racy, discreetly ruffled separates in neutral tones. Here, for example, a viscose and elastin top and silk and polyester skirt. For more, see page 6.

Couture’s Health Check: Will the Sector Survive Exits of Ungaro, Versace? By Miles Socha PARIS — Just when the couture seems to lack buzz, it springs back to life — because of speculation that it’s dying. Both Emanuel Ungaro and Donatella Versace told WWD exclusively Wednesday they are bidding farewell to the world of couture — or at least its runways — which is bound to fuel fresh debate over the future of ultraexpensive, handmade clothes as the number of their purveyors continues to dwindle. The news from Ungaro and Versace follows the announcement by Givenchy that it would not show during Paris See Ungaro, Page7 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL Two pillars of Paris couture, Emanuel Ungaro and Donatella Versace, are ™ 1 bidding farewell to the world of couture, or at least its runways. Federated Department Stores Inc.’s first-quarter profits more than doubled A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 3 on spring fashions that sold well above plan and at full price. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated EYE: Tuleh’s Bryan Bradley and Amanda Brooks unleashed a team of 4 graffiti artists to tag the streets in the name of Tuleh. NET GAINS Wal-Mart had a bad day in the nation’s capital, where the EPA slapped it Women embrace the ease of Internet apparel shopping 5 with a $3.1 million fine and detractors huddled on ways to ease its power. FASHION: Giorgio Armani’s Le Collezioni let loose for resort with looks that are largely unstructured, with simple ruffles and casual silhouettes. “Anything you want, you got it.” Anything an example. “The virtual model that they have 6 you need, you got it, anything at all, you got it,” created is the next best thing to being in the fitting Classified Advertisements ...... 14-15 crooned the late Roy Orbison in the late 1980s. Flash room,” she asserts. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is forward to 2004 and the same sentiments largely “After our search engine, the virtual model is the [email protected], using the individual’s name. hold true for the female consumer’s experience second most used tool overall on our site,” shares WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. shopping the Internet for apparel. Chris Mordi, a spokesperson for Land’s End. VOLUME 187, NO. 101. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional “Many women believe that there is a better “Enter your personal characteristics on one page issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 selection online than there is in stores,” asserts Ellen and see an instantaneous model.” But the fun West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Tolley, a spokesperson for the doesn’t stop there. “We have a Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior National Retail Federation feature that makes size and fit Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at (NRF), the world’s largest retail recommendations,” she adds. additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration trade organization. “If a store Want a little snugness in the No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. 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To subscribe to other Fairchild started using the Internet as an you the fit you want. It’s like magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully having your best friend sitting screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive addition to their retail stores. these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. Multiple selling channels are there telling you what looks WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND supporting and creating the best “The reality is that you can get best,” adds Mordi. TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART outcomes for companies so far,” to more places on the Web quicker And if that’s not enough for WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE relates Jihye Park, Ph. D, an than you can walk or drive. We know you, continues Mordi, the ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. assistant professor at Iowa State that convenience is the first and company also recently added the University, who has conducted most important driver to shopping Land’s End Live feature. With considerable research on con- on the Web.” the click of a button, consumers sumer Internet shopping habits. will receive a call from a customer In Brief – Robert Passikoff But the Web isn’t just a backup Brand Keys service operator. “We’re here at to bricks-and-mortar locations; their convenience,” Mordi says. ● EXTRA SPARKLE: Bulgari said Wednesday it has formed a ven- it is clearly becoming a bonafide retail venue, as And that convenience includes a generous return ture with the Leviev Group, which produces cut diamonds, to fur- Tolley is quick to report. According to data from policy, which experts agree is key to consumer ther develop its diamond jewelry business. Under the terms of Shop.org, NRF’s online entity, online apparel sales confidence in buying apparel off the Net. “They the agreement, Bulgari International Corporation NV, a fully owned subsidiary of Bulgari SpA, and LLD Diamonds Ltd., a for 2003 are expected to total $8.6 billion, which want to know that their purchases are guaranteed,” fully owned subsidiary of Leviev Group, will each hold a 50 per- represents an estimated increase of 54% from the says Cotton Incorporated’s Kitchings. And free or cent stake in the venture and create a new company based in $5.6 billion in actual sales for 2002. reduced shipping fees may also add incentives Switzerland. In a statement, Francesco Trapani, Bulgari’s chief “There certainly is the perception that there is for consumers looking to make purchases online. executive officer, said the agreement will be strategic in consoli- a larger selection online,” affirms Robert Passikoff, “Many sites have instituted a minimum, whereby dating the company’s position in the jewelry market, particularly president of Brand Keys, a consultancy in New they offer free shipping, which definitely encourages the diamond jewelry segment. The Leviev Group has sales of $2.5 York. “But the reality is that you can get to more women to have an item or two sent home.” billion in the diamond business. places on the Web quicker than you can walk or One of the best loved shopping motivations for ● PRESSMAN’S NEW ROLE: Robert Pressman has joined drive. We know that convenience is the first and most women – bargain hunting – can also be found on Studley, the commercial real estate services firm, as executive important driver to shopping on the Web.” the Web. “There are many apparel sites that offer vice president of its new national retail division. The division So much so that 35.9% of female respondents lower prices for well-known brands,” relates will specialize in providing real estate and financial services for browsed the Internet for clothing in the last quarter of Dr. Park. “In the e-tailing market, there are the retail and consumer products industries, as well as restruc- 2003, which compares favorably to the 31.1% making numerous discount merchants that cater to those turing and bankruptcy matters. Pressman was executive manag- ing director of the retail management consulting group at such a claim in the fourth quarter a year earlier, according price sensitive customers.” Cushman & Wakefield and before that worked at Newmark to the Cotton Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™. There is certainly no discounting the importance Retail Financial Advisors. Prior to that, he was co-chairman of Credit retailers with building of the Internet to apparel Barneys New York. sites that are increasingly easier Amount of time spent browsing Internet purchases, as evidenced by and faster to navigate. And don’t for apparel in a one-month period major retailer Sears, which ● EARLY EASTER HELPS TOO: An early Easter and a reduction forget about global availability plans to add the category to in the cost of goods sold helped Too Inc. join its specialty store 2003 cohorts in reporting significantly improved earnings for the first that makes the previously None 7% its site in coming months. quarter. For the 13 weeks ended May 1, the New Albany, Ohio- unattainable attainable, and Less than one hour 46% “Considering that the number based tween girls retailer saw earnings inflate 26.1 percent to the bells and whistles that 1 to 2 hours 27% one search is for apparel, it $5.2 million, or 15 cents a diluted share, besting Wall Street’s con- make Internet shopping a 2 to 4 hours 10% only makes sense for us to sensus estimate by 2 cents. Comparatively, the company reported earnings of $4.2 million, or 12 cents a share, in the year-ago peri- wholly different experience. 4 hours + 9% include apparel on the site by “My Web site has attracted year’s end,” relates Willie od. Sales spiked 11.7 percent to $154.1 million from $138 million. Medina, a spokesperson for Sears. customers from all over the world,” shares Kim ● GONE TO ARBITRATION: A judge in an Oakland County court Johnson, proprietor of Johnsonshop.com and But there’s also one other element to ordering ruled that former Kmart Corp. executives, including chairman Johnson, a boutique situated on Manhattan’s Lower apparel from the Web. “It’s great to come home and and chief executive officer Charles Conaway, who are being East Side. Considering that she owns and operates find a package waiting on your doorstep,” concludes sued by the Kmart Creditor Trust over retention loans, should a single small location in an emerging fashion district, Kitchings. “It’s like sending a gift to yourself!” face an arbitration panel instead of a jury, the Associated Press Johnson notes that hosting a Web address extends That’s definitely one more reason to feel great reported. The trust is suing the executives to get back $28.8 mil- her client base far beyond those in local zip codes. about shopping online! lion worth of loans given to the executives prior to the retailer’s bankruptcy in 2002. The report said that the defendants have not “It definitely gives me great exposure.” This story is one in a series of articles based on findings been charged with any crimes, and that this case is unrelated to Taking a global style to a local level is certainly a federal lawsuit against former Kmart executives involving the an appeal, but are there any other advantages to from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ loss of retirement funds from the Chapter 11. shopping online versus in-store? Yes, say the tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, experts, who all point to virtual models, created by each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the specific retailers for women who want to avoid the American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes dreaded try-on process. and behavior regarding clothing, Clarification appearance, fashion, fiber selection and Cotton Incorporated’s director of market research The date of the AmFAR benefit being hosted by Donatella Versace, and planning, Kim Kitchings, gives Land’s End as many other timely, relevant subjects. Giorgio Armani and Carine Roitfeld in Cannes is May 20. The date was incorrect in a fashion scoop on page 3, Monday. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 3 Federated Net Springs 108.7% St. John Said Naming By Dan Burrows are seeing improvement in the superiority among department tourist business.” stores in terms of such key ele- NEW YORK — Federated Depart- Greater consumer spending ments of success as assortment Zegna’s Cohen CEO ment Stores Inc.’s first-quarter and a strong response to fashion editing, private brand develop- profits more than doubled on and career merchandise led to ment, visual presentation and By Lisa Lockwood Z Zegna and Agnona. He also spring fashions that sold well brisk sales of better sportswear, store design,” Buchanan said. established a solid retail busi- above plan and at full price. handbags, jewelry, women’s shoes As for the potential acquisi- NEW YORK — Richard Cohen, ness for the company, opening The company also assured in- and men’s tailored clothing, said tion of Marshall Field’s, the sub- who has been president of 10 Zegna stores in the U.S. vestors and analysts it would not Houget. Weaker categories in- ject during the call was barely a Ermenegildo Zegna North Prior to joining Zegna, overpay in a potential acquisition cluded housewares and tabletop. sidenote to the discussion of America for the past 16 years, Cohen ran the wholesale divi- of Marshall Field’s. Must-have fashions and quick- Federated’s stellar quarter. How- is headed to St. John Knits as sion of Burberry for 10 years. For the three months ended er inventory turns did wonders ever, in response to an analyst’s chief executive officer, WWD St. John, which went public May 1, the Cincinnati-based oper- for full-price selling, as more con- question, Houget said investors has learned. in 1993 at $17 a share, was a ator of the Macy’s and Blooming- sumers were snatching up what could assume that Federated Cohen confirmed Wednes- Wall Street favorite for its dale’s nameplates, among others, they wanted at initial price points. would be a disciplined interested day he was leaving Zegna, but first years, but in 1998, missed said net income vaulted 108.7 With more full-price selling party, and would not overpay for declined to comment on where estimates for several quarters. percent to $96 million, or 52 cents he was headed. “I got a fabu- Robert Gray, founder and a diluted share, from $46 million, Our sales performance in the first lous opportunity,” he said, chairman at the time, found or 24 cents, a year ago. Earnings adding he plans to leave Zegna himself answering to analysts easily eclipsed Wall Street’s esti- “quarter far exceeded our original when his successor is found. and making changes to meet mate by 4 cents. St. John, the Irvine, Calif.- investors’ demands that he Net sales for the period ad- expectations, as well as that of based manufacturer of women’s felt compromised St. John’s vanced 6.9 percent to $3.52 bil- apparel and accessories, is ma- integrity. In 1999, he struck a lion from $3.29 billion a year ago, our key competitors. jority owned by Vestar Capital stock buyout deal valued at and comparable-store sales like- Partner, with the Gray family about $520 million to take the wise grew 6.9 percent. — Karen Houget, Federated” Department Stores Inc. owning a minority stake. firm private, with funding “Our sales performance in the Neither Vestar officials nor from Vestar Capital. first quarter far exceeded our and the related spike in comps, Field’s. Target Corp. opened bid- Kelly Gray and Bruce Fetter, In June 2001, Gray said he original expectations, as well as Federated was able to leverage ding on the venerable 62-unit de- current co-ceo’s of St. John, planned to retire the following that of our key competitors,” said costs into a 90 basis-point in- partment store chain on Monday. were available for comment. January and fully turn over the chief financial officer Karen crease in gross margin and an 80 Should Federated make a run However, sources close to company’s operations to H.W. Houget on a conference call with basis-point drop in selling, gener- for the company, it may be in a Cohen confirmed his new job. Mullins, the former chairman analysts and investors. “Sales in al and administrative costs. slightly better position than rival While St. John is strictly a and ceo of Neiman Marcus the quarter were up 6.9 percent Those moves accounted for the May Department Stores Co., ac- women’s business, Zegna does Stores, who joined St. John in versus our original expectation triple-digit profit growth on sin- cording to an earlier analysis by the lion’s share of its business January 2001 as ceo. However, of 2 to 2.5 percent, and we were gle-digit sales gains. Buchanan. While May has neither — 85 percent — in men’s wear, Mullins abruptly resigned in able to convert those above-plan Further driving sales was confirmed nor denied interest in and the remainder in women’s October 2001 and Gray post- sales at a very high profit rate.” Federated’s lead in offering Field’s, analysts widely assume apparel under its Agnona poned his retirement indefi- Houget said the entire compa- more appealing merchandise in the company will consider mak- brand. Both St. John and Zegna, nitely to groom his daughter, ny experienced robust sales, but a more inviting shopping envi- ing a bid. Should that happen, however, compete in the luxury Kelly, the firm’s longtime cre- the Bloomingdale’s and Burdines- ronment, noted A.G. Edwards & Buchanan said based on the com- sector of the market and have ative director, and Fetter, St. Macy’s businesses were the out- Sons analyst Robert Buchanan panies’ balance sheets, Federated been run by family members. John’s chief operating officer, to standing contributors. in a research report to investors. has a fractional edge given its bet- During Cohen’s tenure at jointly take over the ceo post. “Bloomingdale’s performance “Our recent visits to Federated ter long-term debt position. Zegna, the North American According to sources in the was driven by strength in the stores in markets including New After the first-quarter sur- operation grew its sales to women’s sector, it is believed St. high-end sector of retail, while Orleans and New York (we just prise, Federated upped its full- $175 million from $15 million. John recently has been search- Burdines benefited from its inte- visited the new Bloomingdale’s year forecast, excluding charges, He was responsible for such ing for a professional manager gration with Macy’s,” Houget store in SoHo this past weekend) to $4.04 to $4.14 a diluted share brands as Zegna, Zegna Sport, and merchant to steer the firm. said. “And both these divisions continue to attest to Federated’s from $3.90 to $4. Intermix Prototype Spreads It Out

By Anamaria Wilson NEW YORK — The budding retail strip of Bleecker Street is welcoming yet another hip specialty store — Intermix. Situated at 365 Bleecker Street on the corner of Charles Street, the 1,000-square-foot store boasts a modern appeal despite its rather quaint West Village surroundings. “Bleecker is a beautiful, charming street and I wanted to bring a modern charm to the block, from the store de- sign to the product mix,” said Khajak Keledjian, who owns the specialty chain of Intermix stores along with his brother, Haro. The Bleecker Street store marks the $30 million com- pany’s fourth Manhattan location. Keledjian estimates the new store should garner approximately $1 million in first-year sales. Intermix also has boutiques in Boston and Miami and three in Tokyo. The company is continu- ing to search for new locations for stores in the U.S., al- though no sites have been finalized.

Of the Bleecker Street location, Keledjian said, “I did- PHOTOS BY CENTENO TALAYA n’t want it to be claustrophobic. I wanted the store to be Above: Brothers Khajak and Haro Keledjian flank store manager open and for the products to have a clarity without peo- Danielle Spiegler. Right: Two interior shots of the new Bleecker ple having to search for things. We like to have beautiful Street store. stores, but the main objective is to showcase the clothes.” Retail prices range from $40 to $65 for Ts, $138 to To that end, the owners, along with architect Seth Howe, $178 for jeans and $235 to $1,790 for dresses. created a minimalist environ with wide-plank oak floors, “Because it’s a smaller store for us, I really wanted it nickel-plated steel fixtures and lacquered wood cabinets. to represent the best of the best,” said Sari Sloane, head “Their other stores tend to be a bit more masculine,” buyer for the stores. Along with paring down the offer- said Howe. “This is a prototype for the rest of their stores, ings for the new location, the company employs an inno- so the effort here is to make it more feminine and to keep vative merchandising approach: Instead of clumping it very modern and neutral.” denim in one section and knits in another, all product The muted tones and simple lines provide a spare categories are mixed together, so shoppers can pull out a backdrop for the exuberantly colored clothes, which run Bash silk handkerchief top and pair it with trouser jeans the gamut from tie-dyed C&C T-shirts; a rainbow color of from Citizens of Humanity. knits from Splendid, Vince and Ella Moss, and striped Accessories range from high-end designer handbags ponchos from Suss. Intermix carries a range of hot denim such as Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel and Chloé to newer la- lines, including Sacred Blue, Citizens of Humanity and bels such as Ronny Kobo. Prices for handbags range Chip & Pepper, along with more high-end designer pieces from $198 to $2,165. The jewelry offering is equally di- such as dresses from Matthew Williamson, Paul & Joe, verse with one-of-a-kind charm necklaces from Mawi, Catherine Malandrino and Diane von Furstenberg. earrings from Lee Angel and pendants from Phat Farm. 4 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004

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Tuleh’s spray-painted wall on Chrystie Street. PHOTOS COURTESY OF TULEH PHOTOS COURTESY Tuleh’s Tag Team NEW YORK — Tuleh’s got a brand new tag — and it’s not the kind on the back of a floral-print dress. Late last week, designer Bryan Bradley and his creative director- muse, Amanda Brooks, unleashed a team of graffiti artists to tag the streets in the eye® name of Tuleh. Armed with stickers, chalk stencils and flyers sporting the various smarty-pants Tuleh-isms Bradley printed on T-shirts for fall — “We is Family” and “Creation of Desire” among them — the taggers cut a swathe through SoHo. They plastered Broadway, Houston, Wooster, Mott, Prince and Spring Streets. Even the sidewalks outside such high-traffic fashion pit stops as the Marc Jacobs store, Balthazar and Pastis were fair game. “I wanted people we know to see them, as well as people who don’t know the line,” Brooks says. Bradley isn’t too worried that his core customer might shake her well-coiffed head in disdainful wonder at this seemingly anarchic behavior. In fact, he’s challenging the classic Tuleh girl to think outside her usual ladylike box. “To loosely quote a gentleman who knows a lot about these kinds of things, ‘In fashion, bite the hand that feeds you and it will always come back for more,’ ” he muses. Indeed, the cheeky campaign fits right in with the newfound sexier edge of the brand. A friend of Bradley’s suggested he bring more of his outsized personality to the table. “The aim being more Tuleh strikes a downtown subway sign. complexity and subterfuge, a higher unexpected quotient and a raucous good time,” Bradley says. “The most tangible result is the graffiti tagging project.” The guerrilla tactics are also a wallet-conscious way for an insider fashion label to get its name out to a wider audience without breaking the bank or submitting to a flush backer. “This is a fraction of the cost of taking out an ad in Vogue,” Brooks says. “And if it were so easy to buy that ad, we wouldn’t need to be this creative.” EYE SCOOP The idea to take to the streets was a natural evolution in terms of Tuleh’s actual geographical Prom Queen: If you’re Mischa location — the studio is on Chrystie Street, nestled between a wholesaler of boiler room parts and a Barton and you’re faced with ceiling tinsmith. “We’re a child of where we live,” says Brooks, noting neighboring downtown streets choosing a dress for your high are covered in all sorts of interesting, artistic graffiti, which kick-started the project. Brooks herself school prom, where do you turn? went out on a midnight sticker raid, saying, “I felt very young and cool.” Why, Chanel, of course. While plastering the city with any sort of advertisement is strictly a legal no-no, the Tuleh team “Everybody goes all out,” Barton is not too concerned about getting into trouble. Bradley scoffs, “The law and I often don’t see eye to said on Tuesday at the launch of eye.” However, any cop, fashion-conscious or not, can figure out just who the gang is. On various Chanel’s Allure Homme Sport flyers designed to look like lost cat posters, names of Tuleh friends, past and present, circle the “We fragrance on the roof of the Hotel is Family” logo. There’s even a shout-out to “Josh,” as in Patner, Bradley’s former design partner Gansevoort. “Some of the girls who helped launch the line in 1998. “He’s still family,” says Bradley. even wear Cavalli.” The dress, The posters also offer a rip-off fringe at the bottom listing the New York stores that carry the however, couldn’t have made an brand: Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, Jeffrey. So implicate one and you implicate all. The enormous impression on her fallout has been minimal, however: A cop nabbed one tagger, but only confiscated his peers at the Professional paraphernalia and slapped him with a $15 fine — which will come out of Tuleh’s coffers, naturally. Children’s School in Manhattan. Thanks to endless thunderstorms, some of the chalkings have washed away, while most of the “I was only there for 20 stickers and flyers have been torn down in the West Village. But the tags are up everywhere in the minutes,” Barton added. “You East Village and Lower East Side. The project masterpiece is still intact, too — a huge mural on the can’t spend too long at these side of Brooks’ own apartment building a few doors down from the studio, spray-painted by Johnny things.” Barton will take the next Vance and Anders Olson, both illustrators. month off in the South of France But how financially successful the project turns out to be ultimately might not be the point. “It’s with her parents before “The all in good fun,” says Bradley, “which is sometimes missing in fashion.” O.C.” starts filming again July 7. — Nandini D’Souza The Ex-Factor: The first public Prepping the wall, from left, encounter between Neil Bush, his are Amanda Brooks, with new wife, Maria Andrews, and his ex-wife, Sharon Bush, will daughter Carmen, taggers supposedly take place Friday Anders Olson and Johnny night at John and Becca Cason Vance, and Bryan Bradley. Thrash’s manse in Houston. The Thrashes and Versace are hosting an “evening of fantasy, fashion,

food and folly.” No word yet WIREIMAGE BY BARTON where the folly will come in. Mischa Barton in Chanel and Miss Sixty.

Drama Club: The Dramatist Guild benefit brought an interesting crowd to the Millennium Broadway Monday night. Mixed in among the playwrights and the performers — including emcee John Guare; Stephen Sondheim, who sang with Nathan Lane; Idina Menzel and Kristin Chenoweth of “Wicked” and Tony Kushner — were a smattering of fashion-friendly folk, recruited by co-chair Kate Betts: Aerin Lauder Zinterhofer, Lillian von Stauffenberg, Renee Rockefeller and Reed and Delphine Krakoff. Fred Ebb, honored with the Lifetime Achievement Award with his writing partner, John Kander, had them all in stitches during his acceptance speech. “I don't know what this Lifetime Achievement Award thing means,” Ebb said. “Does it mean I walk out of here and get hit by a bus?” WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 5 Nicole Miller Gets Better With Donnkenny

By Eric Wilson and Evan Clark duced another secondary line called Miller Girl, which is positioned in the contem- porary sportswear category, and this year began selling a collection of housewares NEW YORK — Nicole Miller is adopting a new strategy to crack the better at Bed, Bath & Beyond, which is expected to push Miller’s overall sales at retail to sportswear market by licensing a secondary collection with Donnkenny Inc. $600 million, Konheim said. called Nicole Miller New York. The new line “is the cornerstone of building the whole future of the Nicole The move represents the company’s first serious effort to break into Miller business,” he added. broader department store distribution, aiming to reach May Co. and The deal also moves Donnkenny, which has traditionally focused on moder- Federated Department Stores divisions that have not carried Nicole Miller ately priced goods, further into the better range, said ceo Dan Levy. Average products in the past. With a collection that encompasses suits, knits and retail prices of the new line are expected to be around $98. sportswear, Nicole Miller New York is looking to compete with recent design- Bromer joined Public Clothing Co. two years ago to work on the Perry Ellis er branded launches in the better zone from Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger women’s sportswear relaunch under designer Patrick Robinson. A spokesman and Michael Kors. for Perry Ellis said the company is currently looking for a replacement for Donnkenny has hired about a dozen employees to prepare for the spring Bromer. She had been president of the Bill Burns division of Kellwood Co., 2005 introduction of Nicole Miller New York. It has named Elissa Bromer, the career divisions of Liz Claiborne and at Andrea Jovine. formerly president of the Perry Ellis women’s division of Public Clothing Co., as group president. Sophia Tezel, who designed her own collection in the Nineties and previously worked for Miller, was hired as designer of the People think we are more commercial new line. Miller’s 22-year-old business is primarily targeted to social occasion, “than we really are, but we’re not in this bridal and contemporary categories, priced significantly lower than most designer brands and with the bulk of its distribution through mass department store business. stores such as Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s. Bud Konheim, chief executive officer of Nicole Miller, said the timing was right to —” Nicole Miller partner with a manufacturer with the ability to produce a larger Nicole Miller collection. “People think we are more commercial than we really are, but Levy is looking to eventually reach $150 million in sales with Nicole we’re not in this mass department store business,” Miller said. “Introducing Miller New York — $100 million from sportswear and $25 million each this line is going to allow us at the same time to raise the level of the Nicole from the knits and suits. In its first year, executives are expecting sales of Miller collection.” around $10 million to $15 million. About a quarter of Miller’s runway collection — with retail sales of The expansion of Donnkenny’s licensed business with Nicole Miller, in- about $60 million — is currently priced at the high end of the market, but cluding a signature outerwear line launching for fall, also helps strengthen the designer would like to evolve her image from that of a special-occa- the firm’s positioning as a branded and private label resource. Donnkenny sion resource, selling bridesmaid dresses in bulk with an average retail also produces Z. Cavaricci junior and misses’ merchandise and Bill Blass price of about $300, to that of a prestige designer with prices ultimately women’s coats, under licensing deals. ranging from $2,000 to $3,000 for a dress. In a separate announcement, Nicole Miller named a new sales manager With 30 existing Nicole Miller stores around the country, including 12 to its Miller Girl division. Christine Benney, who was formerly director of company-owned locations, Miller said the firm has found little price sales and merchandising at La Cosa, will be responsible for sales of the col- resistance to higher-priced items from her runway shows and plans to lection and will report to Jennifer Mallicote, executive director of sales. increase such offerings to help differentiate her signature line from

the new Nicole Miller New York license. Last year, the company intro- ▲ A sketch of the Nicole Miller New York line. Sales Gain Boosts D&G Net Wal-Mart’s Bad Day in D.C.: MILAN — Dolce & Gabbana saw growth of nearly EPA Fine and Activists Meet 20 percent in profits and sales last year, over- shooting an initial company forecast that its top WASHINGTON — Wal-Mart had Wal-Mart detractors was spear- line would grow at least 10 percent. a bad day in the nation’s capi- headed by United Food & Com- Earnings before interest and taxes for the year tal Wednesday, including being mercial Workers Union presi- ended March 31 grew 19.3 percent to $102.1 mil- hit with a $3.1 million Environ- dent Jim Hansen, who took the lion, while consolidated sales rose 19.6 percent to mental Protection Agency fine. helm of the 1.4 million-member $674.1 million. The company did not release a net Downtown, a group of Wal- union earlier this year. The profit figure. Mart detractors huddled be- UFCW for several years has Dollar figures have been converted from the hind closed doors at a union been working to organize the euro at average exchange rates. headquarters in what one or- discount chain’s workers, which The company also managed to shave its debt to ganizer called a “brainstorm- it claims Wal-Mart has strongly $59.3 million, or 50 million euros, from $109.1 mil- ing session” to share informa- resisted. lion, or 91.9 million euros, a year earlier. tion about the discount giant’s Hansen “wanted to broaden General affairs director Cristiana Ruella attrib- market power and its effects the discussion of Wal-Mart- uted the rising profits and sales to “healthy pru- on U.S. wages, communities ization,” said Greg Denier, an dence” rather than to any particular product cate- and health care. assistant to Hansen and UFCW gory or market. The EPA said the world’s communications director, She declined to give a precise forecast for the cur- largest retailer would pay a pointing to an issue being high- rent fiscal year, but said growth will be “significant.” civil penalty of $3.1 million to lighted by a growing cottage in- “At this point, it’s difficult to quantify by how settle charges of mismanaged dustry of Wal-Mart watchers much, but it will definitely be a double-digit storm-water runoff at 24 build- among organized labor, aca- jump,” she said. ing sites in nine states. demics and community ac- Returning to the figures for the year ended this This was Wal-Mart’s second tivists, all of which were repre- March, Dolce & Gabbana said about 48 percent of such citation. In 2001, the sented at the meeting. its revenue came from industrial operations, chain paid a $1 million fine In a statement, participants in while about 40 percent derived from retail activi- and was required to develop a the meeting said its purpose was ties and 12 percent from licensing agreements. storm-water runoff prevention “to begin a dialogue on how to Dolce & Gabbana’s licenses include those with IT program with its contractors reverse the negative course that Holding for diffusion line D&G’s apparel items, for violations at 17 sites in companies like Wal-Mart have on Marcolin for eyewear, Binda for watches and multiple states, the EPA said. workers and communities and Euroitalia for fragrances. The recent settlement re- how to hold big corporations ac- Wholesale revenue for the year, which includes news the EPA’s call for Wal- countable for the negative im- sales through directly operated stores, as well as Mart to have stronger oversight pact on the American economy.” those made through licensees, rose 17.7 percent. of its 150 building contractors The Wal-Mart critics said Industrial investments came to $18.2 million, Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce through an “aggressive compli- they also want “to encourage or 15.4 million euros, for the year, as the company ance program,” the agency said. Wal-Mart and similar compa- initiated a plan to enlarge two factories in central Gabbana will open its first store in Hong Kong. Wal-Mart’s director of cor- nies to improve their corporate and northern Italy. Communications expenses to- In the meantime, the company is mum on the porate communications, Gus behavior in two crucial areas: taled $78.1 million, or 65.8 million euros, slightly future of two of its Milan stores, its accessories- Whitcomb, said in a statement working with communities higher than the $72.5 million, or 61.1 million only and Vintage boutiques on Via della Spiga. that the company “will begin where they are located or con- euros, a year earlier. About a year after their highly touted openings, implementing new measures at sidering locating and providing Retail investments came to $15.7 million, or they are both shuttered and crawling with con- our construction sites and sin- better-paying jobs with benefits, 13.2 million euros, down from $45.9 million, or struction workers. Although it is believed they cerely hopes to be a trendset- especially health care.” 38.7 million euros, a year earlier. The company will remain Dolce & Gabbana sales points, it’s not ter in environmental compli- Wal-Mart did not respond to just cut the ribbon on a D&G store in London and clear which products will fill them. ance moving forward.” request for comment. a Dolce & Gabbana store in Madrid. The company “You will find out soon,” Ruella said. Meanwhile, the confab of — Joanna Ramey is now focusing on China. In June, Dolce & — Amanda Kaiser 6 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004

Suede jacket and cotton and elastin pants. At Ease NEW YORK — Let loose, it’s resort. That’s exactly what Giorgio Armani has in mind for Le Collezioni, where every- thing looks gentle as a breeze, from frilled dresses to softened-up jackets.

▲ Silk dress.

Viscose and ▲ linen jacket and silk pants.

▲ Silk jacket and cotton and polyester

pants. JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 7 Ungaro Giving Up Couture, But Not Retiring

Continued from page one women’s fashion director two years later. couture week July 6-9 as it seeks a replacement for Julien Macdonald, and rumors that Asked about his relationship with Valli, described by some company insiders as Valentino also is considering dropping the couture. A spokesman for the house on estranged, Ungaro waved off the question by insisting that conflict is natural in cre- Wednesday denied the speculation, however, and said the designer will show a couture ative and artistic matters. A Renaissance type prone to quoting writers, philosophers collection in Paris in July. and artists, Ungaro mentioned Michelangelo quarreled with his assistants while paint- But the moves are bound to prompt further soul-searching among the remaining ing the Sistine Chapel. names on the couture roster. Chanel and Christian Dior, for example, while deeply “I do not have a personal conflict with Giambattista Valli,” Ungaro said. “We may committed to the couture business, have recently questioned the viability of a couture work in a different way….But if we work for a house, we all have to live together. We week in Paris as the number of participants continues to decrease. Karl Lagerfeld has have to respect the ethic of the house.” even recently mulled the possibility of showing in New York. Valli had no comment on Wednesday’s announcement. Houses that have stopped making couture in recent years include Yves Saint Ungaro insisted he still has plenty to do for the house. Last month, he traveled to Laurent, Thierry Mugler, Louis Feraud, Lanvin and Nina Ricci. Rome for the launch of a fragrance, Apparition, and he will soon travel to New York to The couture has had its ups and downs, but receive a lifetime achievement award from the seemed to find a new viability in the booming Pratt Institute. Nineties with the extravaganzas mounted by John “I love to work, in fact,” Ungaro said. “We are full Galliano at Dior and the entry into the craft of such of energy here. We’re not going to sleep.” houses as Jean Paul Gaultier. Even Alexander Indeed, Di Spirt spoke frankly about the amount McQueen at one point voiced an ambition to pro- of work that needs to be done at the company, duce a couture collection under his Gucci-backed which has been operating in the red since it was label, but that never came to fruition. acquired by Salvatore Ferragamo in 1996. Di Spirt But as the luxury goods sector was hammered by declined to quantify the losses, but market sources the global economic downturn after 9/11, it became estimate them to be north of $10 million a year. The increasingly difficult for some houses to justify the Ungaro brand generated wholesale volume of investment in their expensive couture operations. about $95.2 million, or 80 million euros, last year, Ungaro’s departure from the couture removes Di Spirt noted. another pillar of the craft, and one on which he Since the cost of making a couture collection and founded his house 37 years ago. mounting a show can easily run into the millions, When told Ungaro was leaving couture and Wednesday’s announcement will amount to signifi- Versace would possibly follow suit, Pierre Bergé cant cost savings for the firm. said, “I’m sure others will follow. I’ve always said “We’re not saying ‘Let’s cut our roots to cut that the couture would die with Yves Saint Laurent. costs,’” Di Spirt stressed. “Rather, we’re acknowl- Now it’s a domino effect. The couture has lost its edging that our customers are asking for some- raison d’être. Couture isn’t art. It’s not meant to be thing else.” hung in a closet like a painting. The women who Ungaro is believed to have a client base for cou- wore couture no longer exist, the art de vivre that ture of perhaps 200 women. spawned couture has died. Although figures are never broken out, in “If houses such as Chanel and Dior one day get January the house characterized couture sales as proof that they can sell as many bags and fragrances “fair.” Prices per item start at about $25,000. Ungaro without a couture show, they’ll stop couture, too.” and Di Spirt insisted prices were never the prob- Although Ungaro’s withdrawal from couture lem, but rather that younger clients do not plan week is bound to carry historical importance — their wardrobes months in advance. especially as it comes only three years after Yves “We don’t only want to maintain our older Saint Laurent retired from the couture — the clients, but develop a new young clientele as designer has been gradually withdrawing from the well,” Di Spirt said. “There are a lot of young fashion scene in recent years. In January, he scaled women out there who want special pieces, but back his couture show to two intimate presentations aren’t prepared to go through the process of haute at Avenue Montaigne. That sparked speculation couture ordering.” that it could be his last show. Ungaro himself grew up in couture. Although his Ungaro, 71, stopped short on Wednesday of saying first job in fashion was as an assistant to a Sicilian he’s retiring, insisting he will continue as a creative tailor in his hometown of Aix-en-Provence, his guru and figurehead for the house, much as he has formative experience came working for the leg- since 2001 when he passed the design reins for Emanuel Ungaro on the runway endary Cristobal Balenciaga. There, Ungaro ready-to-wear to Giambattista Valli. after his fall-winter 2003 learned the importance of draping — as opposed to In fact, Ungaro said he hopes to continue servic- sketching — and the rigors of couture. After six couture show. ing and attracting an upscale clientele with a new years under Balenciaga’s tutelage, Ungaro struck hybrid of couture and rtw delivered at the speed of out in 1967 with his own house in Paris, earning modern times. quick acclaim as an innovative tailor and bold col- “If the house decides to not make couture collec- WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY orist. Among his first couture clients were tions any more, I regret it, of course. But it’s the law of the métier,” he said in an exclu- Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and French high-society doyenne Marie-Helene de sive interview in his sun-drenched atelier on Avenue Montaigne. “I’m not nostalgic. Rothschild, who helped catapult his seductive and colorful style into society. I’m not sad. But we have to live faster and we are reflecting on a new way to do things. Originally inspired by Carnaby Street, the Beats and the hippie movement, Ungaro “The modern way of living does not allow us to make a show, present the prototypes, has more lately been associated with lusty Mediterranean style — replete with shock- order the fabrics, wait for the delivery and then have clients come for three fittings.” ing colors, cascades of ruffles and daring shapes. “Life changes, but what never Details of the hybrid line are still being finalized — including pricing and whether changes is people’s desire to be beautiful,” he once said. or not it will be shown to the press. The first is expected to be ready by fall. Meanwhile, De Spirt said among priorities for the Ungaro business is maximizing Ungaro chief executive officer Paolo Di Spirt, who joined the designer for the inter- sales of its signature, Fuchsia and Fever lines, while expanding the accessories cate- view, said the couture atelier was recently restructured, with headcount reduced by gory to a target of 30 percent of sales in three to four years. At present, shoes and hand- about 20 percent. But he said the skills and expertise of the remaining employees, bags, produced under license by Ferragamo, generate about 7 percent of sales. numbering less than 30, would be applied to other Ungaro products, which range from De Spirt said brand sales rebounded about a year and a half ago and that the latest diffusion and jeans collections to swimwear and accessories. incarnation of the Emanuel/Emanuel Ungaro bridge line, now licensed to G.A.V. in the Wednesday’s announcement comes amid speculation of a rift in the house between U.S., has been meeting sales targets. Ungaro and Valli. Other recent business developments include new franchise boutiques in Dubai, Italian-born Valli, 37, has been credited with modernizing the house and bringing Beirut and Kuwait, along with three directly operated corners in Japan. Di Spirt also new attention to the brand — dressing celebrities from Nicole Kidman to Lucy Liu. He said he is close to signing new licenses for men’s wear. initially joined the house in 1997 to run the design studio and was promoted to — With contributions from Alessandra Ilari, Milan, and Robert Murphy, Paris Versace Ends Couture Shows to Focus on Ready-to-Wear Collections By Alessandra Ilari business by allocating additional resources to and strengthen the company across the board. The moves also are expected to result in the various departments: design, sourcing, pro- To underscore the move, Ballestrazzi said more timely production and delivery sched- MILAN —In further restructuring moves, duction, merchandising and delivery. that, starting with spring-summer 2005, the ules, cost efficiencies and better sell-throughs Versace is shifting its resources and focus from “Our women’s business is coming off two pre-collection and first line will be renamed for Versace’s wholesale partners and fully couture to its bourgeoning pre-collections and strong back-to-back seasons,” said Daniele Main Collection and Runway Collection, re- owned retail operations. main ready-to-wear line. Ballestrazzi, Versace’s interim chief executive spectively, and will be conceived as consistent To further pump up the volume, Versace is The company said that, starting in July and officer, in a statement. “Through the beginning collections. upping its advertising budget by 20 percent for for an undisclosed time period, it will no longer of May, retail sales for the spring-summer The Main and Runway collections are ex- the second half of the year. While Versace de- show during the couture seasons in Paris, but 2004 main collection are up 28 percent, while pected to generate 65 percent and 35 percent clined to comment on the amount it spends will sell to atelier clients from its Milan head- wholesale revenues for fall-winter 2004 grew of seasonal revenues, respectively, Ballestrazzi overall on advertising, an industry source esti- quarters. 22 percent over the previous year.” noted. As part of the new strategy, an expand- mated the additional investment to be in the Versace said the decision will allow it to ac- Ballestrazzi added that Versace felt the need ed women’s wear Main Collection will be league of $1.2 million. Targeted markets include celerate the development of its pre-collection to reallocate resources to improve profitability shown in June alongside the men’s collection. the Far East, Italy, the U.S. and Russia. 8 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004

The Beat Hayne Eyeing Mall Scene for Urban Outfitters By Ross Tucker cialty store has been on a six- year tear, with sales from its NEW YORK — Urban Outfitters Urban, Anthropologie, Internet Inc. is headed for the suburbs, and catalogue and Free People said Richard Hayne, chairman channels exploding to $548.4 mil- and president. Given the compa- lion in fiscal 2004 from $209.9 ny’s frenzied pace of growth, its million in 1999, a compound an- future mall-based specialty retail nual growth rate of 21 percent. neighbors aren’t likely to welcome Momentum shows no signs of it with bundt cakes and pies. slowing, and management has Setting the retailer apart is a been anything but coy, expecting “multiview” merchandising strat- first-quarter results, to be report- egy that works especially well for ed today, will be as high as the apparel. Hayne told WWD that record 120 percent earnings gain unlike other stores, “We will in the fourth quarter. have at least three different con- Urban Outfitters offered a cepts or themes running through preview last week, announcing a our women’s assortment at any 32 percent boost in comparable- one time.” store sales for the first quarter. The strategy also allows the Sales ballooned 59.1 percent to company to test new concepts $170.3 million from $107 million that may deviate from the others in the year-ago period, making without having to throw vast re- the company’s expectations of sources behind it. “Most of our doubling earnings per share from vertically integrated competitors the 16 cents reported in the first will have one theme, and it will quarter of 2003 within its grasp. be very narrow,’’ Hayne said. Hayne, who co-founded Ur- young tweens and early teens,” “They often don’t allow for test- ban Outfitters in 1970, admits to Hayne said. Meanwhile, Urban ing. We, again, think this is an being late in embracing the mall stores’ 18- to 30-year-old target area that allows us to test and get channel. customer had gravitated to major a little bit faster read on things.” “I really deserve a little criti- cities. Those that commuted A mall strategy has its chal- cism in this area,” Hayne said. from the suburbs tended to do lenges. Urban Outfitters faces “We traditionally had not been their shopping in the cities. stiff competition in a crowded in favor of malls.” The reason The change occurred about 10 space that includes specialty re- was simple — his customers years ago, when suburban busi- tailers such as Gap, Abercrombie weren’t there, he said. nesses began growing and entic- & Fitch, Pacific Sunwear and Suburban malls were “really ing post-graduate twentysome- American Eagle. a place for a 30-something-year- things to work there, Hayne said. The Philadelphia-based spe- old woman with a baby stroller, Rather than reverse commute, 18- to 30-year-olds chose to live and work in the suburbs, dramat- ically altering the role suburban malls played in their lives. “They’re actually going to places like the Cheesecake Fac- Industry developments... tory and other restaurants,” Hayne said, comparing the Urban customer demographic of today Global Sourcing The Power of Negotiation Import Buying with previous years. “They’ll go Advertising and Promotion New Techno Fabrics and have a date there. This was unheard of in my day.” 3-D Modeling & Animation Art and Commerce Hayne, during a presentation Publicity Workshop Online Retailing at a Lehman Brothers retail semi- nar here in April, offered insight Web Design Technical Drawing Branding Strategies into the company’s expansion plans and showed there was room Urban Outfitters, known for retailing through freestanding stores and for both its Urban and Anthro- catalogues, is taking its multiview merchandising approach to the suburbs. ... pologie store concepts to grow. Career development For the company’s core Urban industry yet that would under- stores with pages marked asking stores concept, expansion hinges stand what a tremendous market sales staff where certain items in on obtaining mall space. As of the twentysomething is for that the catalogue are. Although we Jan. 31, the company operated 61 same kind of lifestyle setting.” can’t exactly quantify it we be- Urban stores, only seven of The buying power of the An- lieve it is driving additional sales is connecting the dots. which were in malls. Aber- thropologie demographic has in the stores.” crombie & Fitch by comparison made it one of the company’s Unlike its specialty-store com- has about 340 stores, with 270 in fastest-growing segments, with petitors, Urban has found success malls. An estimated 630 of sales closing ground on Urban in selling home goods to its cus- American Eagle’s 758 stores are with each quarter. For the first tomers, which Hayne attributes to FIT’s School of Continuing & Professional Studies in malls, while some 850 of the quarter, Anthropologie sales in- a fundamental difference in the offers two paths to success. For professionals looking to stay on Gap’s more than 1,400 stores are creased 62.6 percent to $66.6 mil- way Urban approaches retailing. top, Hot Topics classes provide short-term seminars focusing mall-based. lion, from $41 million. “The typical specialty store on the latest trends affecting creative fields. And for budding Anthropologie, which targets a “I think that because Anthro- took out product category by cat- entrepreneurs, the Enterprise Center courses teach the more affluent and established 30- pologie is serving a wider demo- egory from department stores business and technology tools needed to bring a creative idea to to 45-year- old female customer, graphic it probably has more po- and then fashioned that into a life. No matter which path you choose, you’ll learn with industry is hitching its wagon to the recent tential for number of units,” chain of stores,” he said. These leaders focused on your future. growth of lifestyle centers. Hayne said. stores then targeted a wide array “There are so many of these The decision to beef up its cat- of customers. “We don’t look at it being built today, these centers alogue distribution has been a like that,” he said. “We still have COME TO AN OPEN HOUSE: that target that 35-year-old well- key driver of sales across all many of the product categories educated woman with select channels in recent years, said that a traditional department General Advisement: shops that provide a neat mix for Hayne. After successful test dis- store would have had, yet we spe- Saturday, May 15, 10:00am–12:00pm her without her having to walk tributions during the back-to- cialize in a customer.” Marvin Feldman Center, C Building Lobby thousands of square feet through school season last year, manage- Underscoring the company's a mall,” said John Kyees, Urban’s ment decided to up its Urban Out- merchandising acumen are some chief financial officer. fitters catalogue circulation this healthy balance sheet indicators. For a catalog call 1-888-FIT-IS-NYC x47 Of the firm’s 52 Anthropologie year to eight million from three For example, heading into the www.fitnyc.edu/wwd locations, 20 are in lifestyle cen- million. Anthropologie’s circula- first quarter the company has no ters, and management estimates tion will jump to 15.5 million from long-term debt and its immedi- the current pool of lifestyle cen- 13 million last year. ate liquidity position, with a ters in the U.S. to be 250. “We see when we drop the quick ratio of 1.8, should be more School of Continuing & Professional Studies Given the rapid success of catalogues a significant increase than adequate to meet any un- Anthropologie and the lifestyle in Internet traffic and sales,” foreseen obligations. Fashion Institute of Technology STATE UNIVERSITY OF NEW YORK | SEVENTH AVE. AT 27 ST., NEW YORK CITY center concept, Hayne said, Hayne said. “Anecdotally, we see —With contributions from “There’s not a lot of insight in the a lot of women coming to the Dan Burrows WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 9 Denim Dish Warnaco Posts a Profit The Warnaco Group Inc. on Wednesday posted im- proved first-quarter earnings with net income com- ing in at $20.2 million, or 44 cents a diluted share, on revenues of $393.3 million. I.C. Isaacs Details Exec Pay In year-ago results, on an adjusted basis, during which the company was still mired in bankruptcy for a one-month period during the quarter, the loss was The Marithé & $40 million on revenues of $423.5 million. François Girbaud For the period ended April 3, revenues in the jeans line is sportswear group fell 24.5 percent in the three produced by I.C. months to $96.8 million from $128.3 million. The inti- ▲ Isaacs & Co. mate apparel group declined by 3.8 percent to $141.2 million from $146.8 million, hurt in part by continued weakness in the Warner and Olga lines. The good news was in swimwear, which gained 4.7 percent to $155.3 million from $148.4 million. Joe Gromek, president and chief executive officer, said during a conference call to Wall Street that rev- enue shortfall in the Calvin Klein jeans business was primarily the result of the firm’s “planned year-over- year reduction in sales and excess inventory through Two albums from Diesel’s auction. the off-price channel and the shift in our member- ship club business to a more normalized basis.” He added that the company, nevertheless, achieved its goal of double-digit operating margins in the CK jeans business. The company’s brand-building efforts for the CK jeans business include new product introductions and an increase in marketing activity. Gromek added that department store customers have responded fa- vorably to the double-black denim portion of the CK jeans line. The ceo noted that the performance of Chaps also had exceeded the company’s expectations, and that I.C. Isaacs & Co. chief Chaps represents Warnaco’s largest revenue growth executive Peter Rizzo, opportunity over the next three years. The Chaps denim collection will launch in fall 2004 in more

left, and chairman ▲ than 900 doors. Staffan Ahrenberg, right. —Vicki M. Young

Bottom of the Pops Typically, when a business tries to sell merchandise, it seeks to play up the desirability of the goods in question. But the folks at Diesel aren’t a group that I.C. Isaacs & Co. takes the standard approach. Inc. last year re- For the past few months, the Italian jeansmak- vised the terms of its er has been encouraging shoppers to drop off the executive contracts, worst record albums they own at its stores. The ending the practice of company has now collected about 3,000 of the basing bonus payments on least-desired LPs and is preparing to auction top-line results and instead linking Levi’s Tax Move them on eBay. them to bottom-line measures. As a result, only one top The auction will take place from May 28 until official — president Danny Gladstone, a five-year vet- Levi Strauss & Co. has appointed Paul Smith as vice June 28 and all proceeds from the sale will go to eran of the firm who was grandfathered in — received president of its global tax department, effective May Sweet Relief Musicians Fund, an organization that any bonus money in 2003. 24. The move comes after a year in which the compa- provides financial assistance to all types of career The New York-based firm has seen a number of ny faced lawsuits from former employees who musicians facing illness, disability or age-related changes at the top since an investment vehicle con- claimed they had been fired after refusing to with- problems. trolled by François Girbaud and Marithé hold records from tax authorities. The auction will include albums from such artists Bachellerie acquired a 40.4 percent stake in Isaacs, Smith, 36, joins Levi’s from Ernst & Young LLP’s as Michael Jackson, Lionel Richie, Take That and their largest licensee, in 2002. The changes were de- Washington office, where he served as director of tax Celine Dion, as well as Bald Bill Hagan and his tailed in a recent filing with the Securities and accrual services. At Levi’s, he will report to chief fi- Trocaderons’ “Music to Strip By” and 76’s “Sucking Exchange Commission. nancial officer Jim Fogarty, an executive from the in the Seventies.” The company said it had set the salary of chief ex- turnaround firm Alvarez & Marsal that Levi’s hired — Julee Greenberg ecutive officer Peter Rizzo, the former Bergdorf in December. Goodman ceo hired by Isaacs in December, at In April 2003, two former tax department employ- $500,000 a year. Rizzo’s pay for the 23 days in 2003 he ees sued Levi’s in California Superior Court in San worked for the company came to $28,846. Francisco claiming wrongful termination for alleged- Isaacs said Robert J. Conologue, who joined the ly refusing to hide documents they said showed VF Streamlines in Kids firm in February 2003 as chief operating officer and Levi’s improperly recorded sales and tax informa- chief financial officer, agreed to an initial salary of tion from its overseas operations. A month later, While Greensboro, N.C.-based VF Corp. has attracted $315,000. His 2003 pay came to $273,828. Levi’s countersued for charges including breach of the industry’s attention with a major acquisition tear Sandra Finkelstein, senior vice president of mer- contract. The legal battle between the parties is on- of late — and it’s already been named a potential chandising, is being paid $310,000 this year. going, and this year, a Levi’s bondholder sued the buyer for Levi Strauss & Co.’s Dockers unit — this Finkelstein, who also joined the enterprise in company and its top executives, charging violations week it moved to streamline its presence in the chil- February 2003, last year received $266,024 in salary. of federal securities laws. That suit, brought in dren’s wear business. Gladstone was paid a salary of $357,091 and January, is seeking class-action status. The company said Monday it had sold the $207,895 in bonus. However, the company said his When Levi’s in March reported its financial re- Healthtex brand to New York-based Lollytogs Ltd., contract has been revised to tie bonus payments to sults for its 2003 fiscal year, the company also restat- which also produces the French Toast brand. The profitability. ed results for 10 recent quarters, including all of fis- purchase price was not disclosed. Isaacs posted a net loss last year of $1.7 million, cal 2001 and 2002, and the first two quarters of 2003. Lollytogs holds the license for boys’ tops bearing compared with a $5 million loss the year before. At the time, Fogarty said the financial missteps the Lee and Lee Pipes brands, both VF properties. Sales were $66.2 million, up 0.6 percent. that led to the restatement included “having taken a A spokeswoman for Lollytogs said the privately held The jeansmaker also said Gladstone had stepped double deduction for losses related to plant closures.” company had sales “well in excess of $100 million.” down from its board. Seven people will stand for Levi's lowered its income for 2001 to $93.7 mil- VF closed on a $600 million acquisition of Nautica election as directors at the firm’s annual meeting in lion from $151 million. For 2002, income was low- Enterprises in August. Last month, it agreed to buy New York next month. They are chairman Staffan ered to $7.3 million from $25 million. For the first West Coast sneaker company Vans Inc. in a $396 mil- Ahrenberg; Olivier Bachellerie — Marithé’s son; quarter of 2003, the company revised its net loss up- lion deal. After Levi’s on Tuesday revealed its plans Conologue; Rene Faltz, an adviser to François ward to $58 million from $24.5 million and for the to sell Dockers, a VF spokeswoman said the company Girbaud; Neal J. Fox, a former retailer; Rizzo, and second quarter, deepened the loss to $41.8 million has “an interest in strong brands” like Dockers, but Robert Stephen Stec, a former VF Corp. executive. from $13.4 million. also has “a very full plate right now.” — Scott Malone —S.M. —S.M. 10 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 The New ‘Jordache Look’

NEW YORK — Remember the early Eighties, when that white-stitched horse head on the back pocket of the skinniest jeans around was the epitome of cool? Well, just when you thought those Jordache creations — complete with the impossibly high-rise waist and second-skin fit — were relegated to the land of vintage finds on eBay, they’re back. Of course, this time around, the rise is lower and there’s a bit of stretchy give to circumvent the painful process of lying down on the bed to squirm in and zip up. Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Jordache Enterprises Inc. will relaunch the new-and-improved jeans just after the July 4th weekend. And Shaul Nakash, 27, hopes he can create the same fanatic buzz for the renaissance versions as their predecessors en- joyed. After all, he’s got legacy on his side — his father, Ralph, and uncles, Joe and Avi, were the ones who started the company in the late Seventies, eventually introducing the iconic jeans a few years later. Although the Nakash brothers stopped producing the jeans in the late Eighties, they kept their hands in the denim world and currently manufacture or license lines for Wal-Mart, Tommy Hilfiger, Gap, Fubu, Old The 13-inch Navy, Limited, Express and American Eagle, to name rise on a a few. All told, the company’s apparel business was es- vintage pair of timated at $500 million in 2003, according to Jordache jeans Hoovers.com. Meanwhile, Jordache also has commer- from 1983, cial real estate holdings in New York, Chicago and left, versus Israel, and produces Halutza Olive Oil, made in Israel the new, lower and sold worldwide. fit today. When Shaul Nakash thought of relaunching the sig- nature jeans line, he had to persuade his father and uncles that there is life outside the mass market. He had to convince them that they were sitting on a veri- table gold mine when it came to slipping back into de- signer jeans. “There’s a lot of pressure,” he says of the project. “Everyone tells me, ‘You don’t know how big Jordache was back in the day. You don’t know what a company your father built.’ ” But, in fact, he does know. He remembers being right in the thick of it. “All the kids at school asked me for free jeans,” he recalls. “All the kids’ parents asked their kids to ask me for free jeans. I was like, ‘They’re 20 bucks. Go buy a pair.’” In part, what has spurred Nakash into action is the current craze for status jeans not unlike the demand of the early Eighties. “My family started designer jeans and we don’t have a piece of that pie,” he says, referring to the cur- rent booming denim market. “We need to compete. There’s not a person in America who doesn’t know what Jordaches are. How could we not capitalize on TURNER DAVID JEANS BY DEAN KAUFMAN; NAKASH PHOTO BY the brand?” Shaul And given the family history, it irks him to see his Nakash, wife, mother and two sisters buy jeans elsewhere. “My in the wife was coming home every week with a different Jordache pair of Sevens,” he says, noting that he himself is a design Diesel fan. “I still think they are the greatest jeans studio in maker in the world. They’re fabulous.” The first thing Nakash did was to transfer the New York. brand’s iconic horse head logo to the back pocket of a more modern cut, then worry about fit. He says he did extensive research — both group studies and an- ecdotal inquiries — to figure out what women look for in jeans. “Basically, girls want to look good,” he notes. “They want their butts to look good.” In fact, good-looking female butts are a topic of high concern to Nakash, as they are to many young men, and he’s delighted to be able to help. “You push the side seams forward,” he says, “and it makes the ass look more flattering.” The relaunch will feature four different styles — flared in stretch and rigid denim, stretch boot and slim cut — to retail for $130, as well as denim pencil skirts and minis to retail for $125. Still on the drawing board: a line of T-shirts featuring Jordache prints from the Seventies and Eighties. “I don’t want to sell to everyone,” Nakash says of his plan for a miniscule distribution. “I want it to be really exclusive.” To date he has lined up Tracey Ross and Fred Segal in Los Angeles and New York’s Atrium, and is courting Scoop, Intermix and Cantaloup. Throughout the process, Nakash has kept a pair of vintage jeans, circa 1983 — purchased on eBay — close by for inspiration, always aware that the family foot- steps are indeed big ones in which to follow. The old jeans also serve as a barometer of just how much the demands of the denim world have changed. “I still laugh about how people wore these jeans,” Nakash muses, fingering that famous 13-inch rise. “I would never wear these.” — Nandini D’Souza WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 11

Active Lifestyle Olympic Apparel to Beat the Heat

By Melanie Kletter is lightweight and eliminates chaffing through its seamless construction and ventilation. NEW YORK — Reebok, Nike, Adidas and other sports manufacturers have created “There are many components to our technol- fabrics and footwear intended to keep Olympic athletes as cool and dry as possible ogy,” Wand said. “Our research has shown that when they compete in Athens’ sizzling August heat. it’s not about the amount of venting you have, From lighter colors to fibers that control moisture, the innovations are the result of but where it’s placed, and it’s not always an ob- intensive research on how to help competitors achieve optimal performance in tem- vious thing.” peratures that average 88 degrees in August — compared with 64 degrees in Sydney, Wand said Nike has worked closely with Australia, where the 2000 Summer Games were held. teams and leagues, as well as individuals, in- “We have been looking very carefully at what the conditions are going to be versus cluding five-time Tour de France winner the last Olympics,” said Jordan Wand, global director of Nike’s Advanced Innovation Lance Armstrong, to develop its elite per- Team. “Athens is going to be very hot and not very humid so there are some differ- formance apparel. “In our research with ences as it relates to keeping athletes cool and comfortable.” Lance, we find that his [performance-relat- Some developments show how important technology and textiles have become in ed] problems are the same as his teammates performance apparel. Nike and other com- and with everyday athletes.” panies now have labs where researchers Swimwear giant Speedo, official sponsor study the performance of their apparel. for the U.S. swimming team, is using lighter These labs use high tech chambers with var- colors and wickable fabrics for its new ious simulated environments to re-create Olympic products. exact weather conditions. “Since plans for a roof at the pool have been “In the Olympics past, man-made fabrics scrapped at the last moment, the swimming compe- were not as prevalent and everyone used tition faces a very unique challenge with limited cotton, even for sports such as swimming,” sun protection,” said Craig Brommers, vice presi- said Christine Wu, Reebok’s director of ap- dent of marketing at Speedo. “For the first time ever, parel for sports marketing. “Now there we are offering the team a vest and shorts combina- have been many advancements. We have tion instead of the usual long-sleeve warm-up and raised our standards, and we work closely long pants seen at previous Games.” Speedo is also with the factories and the athletes to devel- providing more Aussie-style hats than before, he op our apparel. said. “Our team needs to stay out of the sun so as not “Athletes now win by fractions of a sec- to dissipate energy.” ond so everything is considered,” she said. Under Armour, the fast-growing brand best known “It’s not just training and strategy, but for its performance underwear, doesn’t have deals equipment, shoes, clothing and even hair with athletes, but the company has found that many come into play.” elite competitors are using its products. Reebok introduced its Play Dry system “We believe our brand has brought more aware- in 2002, though this is the first time it is ness to the importance of having performance prod- being used at the Olympics. It is incorpo- Andy Roddick wears Reebok apparel with ucts,” said Kevin Plank, the company’s founder and rated into the team outfits for the National Play Dry, a moisture-management system. president. He said products that have been partic- Basketball Association and the WNBA, as ularly popular with athletes are the polyester well as apparel for individual athletes, including Reebok-endorsed tennis star shirts, which have a stretch element as well as Andy Roddick. other Lycra offerings. With this technology, Reebok creates crevices within the fibers of the garment, and Many of these companies plan to bring the in- the water molecules are drawn into the channels that take them away from the body, novations used in the apparel for athletes to Wu said. There are also more mesh panels in the track and field Olympic apparel, consumers after the Games. Reebok’s new Play which allows for greater breathability, she said. Dry is being incorporated into spring offerings. Antimicrobial treatments, which are built into socks and apparel to inhibit the “Consumers are getting a lot more savvy growth of sweat-based bacteria and keep fabrics smelling fresh, are also new. about technology,” said Reebok’s Wu. “Even if Adidas, an official apparel sponsor of the United States Olympic Committee and 20 it’s for casual competition, people want the other national committees, is using its ClimaCool system in apparel for teams and its same level of performance as the Olympians.” sponsored athletes. It will also be used for the award ceremony uniforms as well as apparel that each athlete will receive for team training and to wear in the Olympic Adidas’ ClimaCool technology is in village. Adidas is also providing uniforms, all of which will have ClimaCool, for the many of its Olympic team uniforms. ▲ Athens staff, volunteers and technical officials. ClimaCool was first tested two years ago. It is now a key part of Adidas’ performance apparel for athletes and consumers and is at the forefront of the company’s offerings for athletes going to Athens, said Chris DiBenedetto, leader of the Adidas Innovation Team. MILLENNIUM APPAREL GROUP “We started at the beginning with this technol- ogy,” DiBenedetto said. “We felt we had to under- MOURNS THE PASSING OF stand the body to be able to effectively cool it, so we mapped the entire human body to determine which areas generate the most heat.” Years in development, the technology is designed to enhance ventilation and mois- ture management by pulling sweat across the surface and through the fabric, DiBenedetto said. In addition, conduc- tive tape is placed in key areas to dissi- pate heat, and a chimney-type vent on the athlete’s back is intended to in- crease airflow and vent areas. The goal is to create an environment around the body that is cooler than air tempera- CHARLES BECKER tures, he said. The technology is also used in 1950 - 2004 Adidas footwear, and has been built EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR, LICENSING & MARKETING into the midsole to create extra ventilation. The construction now has a patent. Nike is incorporating a number of its pro- WEWOULD LIKE TO EXTEND OUR DEEPEST SYMPATHIES TO HIS prietary thermoregulation systems for its FAMILY ANDFRIENDS. HEWAS A GENTLEMAN IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD. Olympic apparel, including Sphere, Added Zone Venting, Dri-FIT and Strike Out Swift. HIS HEART WAS LARGER THAN LIFE. HEWILLBEMISSED. Sphere, technology that was invented for long- distance runners, helps keep athletes cool Donations can be made to: through an evaporation system. It was intro- duced at the 2000 Summer Games and has Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in the name of Charles Becker evolved into new styles, including a singlet that PO Box 27106 New York, NY 10087 Tel (646) 227-3546 Nike’s Sphere suit is designed to create comfortable conditions for elite

▲ runners heading to Athens. 12 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 TheWWDList

This list is a snapshot of a broader study by executive search firm Spencer Stuart, which is trying to draw a correlation between ceo backgrounds and retail performance. Is there a link between education level or career path and the top executive suite? For the ceo’s of the 10 highest-volume chains, an MBA is not a prerequisite, but the Degrees of Success executives here have at least an undergraduate degree and most worked their way up through the department store ranks. Nor is an Ivy League education necessary for success in retailing. In the old days, a degree from the A&S training program, Education level and employment backgrounds of chief executives of the 10 largest retail chains. considered the Harvard of the industry, was the best credential around.

H. LEE SCOTT, WAL-MART STORES INC. Volume: $246.5 billion; Tenure: 4 years; College degrees: BS in business from Pittsburgh State University, Pittsburg, Kan. Route up: operations to merchandising Scott came up through the operations ranks before moving into merchandising, and Wal-Mart’s operations are the envy of other retailers. Scott, whose 1 early positions in the company included transportation director, vice president of distribution and senior vice president of logistics, knows the value of supply-chain management.

ROBERT ULRICH, TARGET CORP. Volume: $44 billion; Tenure: 10 years; College degrees: BA from University of Minnesota; MBA from Stanford University Route up: store operations to merchandising Ulrich is credited with putting together the team that catapulted the Target chain into a national force. But success has been more difficult for the 2 company’s department stores, Marshall Field’s and Mervyn’s. Both chains have been a drag on the company and are now on the selling block.

ALAN LACY, SEARS, ROEBUCK & CO. Volume: $41.3 billion; Tenure: 4 years; College degrees: BS in industrial management from Georgia Tech; MBA from Emory University Route up: planning to development to finance Lacy, who was chief financial officer, president of credit and senior vice president of finance earlier in his career, sold Sears’ lucrative credit business to 3 concentrate on its department stores. The company is still in the midst of its transformation, which relies heavily on strong apparel sales. The category, however, was down in the low-single digits and contributed to a significant loss in the first quarter.

ALLEN QUESTROM, J.C. PENNEY CO. Volume: $32.3 billion; Tenure: 4 years; College degrees: BS in finance and marketing from Boston University Route up: merchandising As ceo of Federated Department Stores, Allen Questrom pulled the company from the pit of bankruptcy, and helped engineer the biggest department 4 store merger in history with R.H. Macy & Co. He retired from Federated in 1997, but couldn’t stay out of the game too long, becoming ceo of Barneys New York in 1999. He’s a merchant at heart who loves a big-picture challenge. And he has that at Penney’s, where he’s trying to redefine the store with a private label push and with younger brands such as Bisou Bisou and Parallel.

JULIAN DAY, KMART CORP. Volume: $31 billion; Tenure: 1 year; College degrees: BS in business from Oxford University; MBA from London Business School Route up: finance and sales 5 Never mind that U.K.-born Julian Day came up through the ranks in finance and sales, when Kmart’s chief merchant resigned shortly after the company exited bankruptcy in 2003, Day temporarily assumed those responsibilities. Kmart turned in its first profitable quarter in three years for the fourth quarter ended Jan. 28. Day now wants to improve sourcing, assortments and store presentation with the help of two Gap veterans who’ll fill the merchandising void.

TERRY LUNDGREN, FEDERATED DEPARTMENT STORES INC. Volume: $15 billion; Tenure: 1 year; College degrees: BA from the University of Arizona Route up: merchandising 6 The affable Lundgren is a strong administrator and marketer and a creative merchant. Lundgren, who was named chairman of Federated in December, is considered a protégé of Penney’s Questrom. The two men worked together when Questrom ran Federated. Lundgren’s mantra is differentiating stores through unique merchandise and improving the shopping experience. The strategy is paying off. First-quarter profits released yesterday more than doubled.

PAUL PRESSLER, GAP INC. Volume: $14.5 billion; Tenure: 2 years; College degrees: BS in economics from the State University of New York at Oneonta Route up: marketing 7 Under Pressler, who’s raised the profile of the once-anonymous design teams, the company’s brands, Gap, Old Navy and Banana Republic, are more differentiated than they were. After three years of posting negative same-store sales, Gap Inc. reported a 9.9 percent increase in 2003. While there was some skepticism about whether the former head of Disney’s global theme parks and resorts could find his way through the fashion thicket, Pressler’s understanding of how to appeal to a broad audience has come in handy.

GENE KAHN, MAY DEPARTMENT STORES Volume: $13.5 billion; Tenure: 6 years; College degrees: BA in political science from City College of New York Route up: merchandising Kahn aggressively pursued small acquisitions such as bridal stores early in his tenure, but his biggest buy might be yet to come: May is said to be in the 8 running for Marshall Field’s. Kahn’s challenge is fine-tuning the merchandising strategies of May’s five regional nameplates and Lord & Taylor, which shed 32 stores. Kahn also is rolling out a smaller store prototype with more room for apparel and accessories, wider aisles and products grouped by age or lifestyle.

LARRY MONTGOMERY, KOHL’S Volume: $9.1 billion; Tenure: 5 years; College degrees: BS in mathematics from Ferris State University, Big Rapids, Mich. Route up: merchandising to store operations Montgomery answered Wall Street’s demands for growth, but stumbled when weakness in moderate apparel contributed to an 8.1 percent profit loss in 9 2003. The company continues to move ahead with a store expansion in several new markets.

LESLIE WEXNER, LIMITED BRANDS INC. Volume: $8.4 billion; Tenure: 41 years; College degrees: BS from Ohio State University Route up: company founder Wexner has a keen eye for marketing. What could be a more brilliant publicity ploy than having scantily clad supermodels vamp their way down a 10 runway? From the first Limited store, which opened in 1963, he’s tapped market niches with chains such as Express and Bath & Body Works and made vertical integration a key to the company’s success. Wexner was one of the first to recognize the potential of turning stores into brands.

WEXNER PHOTO BY APWORLDWIDE; SOURCES: SPENCER STUART, A PRIVATELY HELD GLOBAL EXECUTIVE SEARCH FIRM, FROM SPENCER STUART’S RETAIL PRACTICE. OTHER INFORMATION: ORIGINAL REPORTING. WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 13 U.S. Imports Reach Currency Issues Impact Italian Firms MILAN — Currency fluctuations ter sales, $423.7 million, its sec- sales to its directly operated Record Levels in Qtr. took a bite out of several Italian ond largest fashion brand, stores from the wholesale chan- fashion and luxury goods com- Valentino, marked steady gains, nel, because inventory moved By Kristi Ellis but the coalition is pressing ahead panies’ first-quarter sales, as well. through its own stores translates and plans to convene a two-day prompting closer scrutiny of the Revenue at the Roman fash- to revenue booked in the second WASHINGTON — U.S. imports of summit in Brussels on Sunday to bottom line. Tod’s, Marzotto and ion house grew 15.4 percent to quarter. On a geographic basis, apparel and textiles hit their pressure governments to put the Benetton released Wednesday $53.4 million, or 45 million Tod’s said sales in Italy, its highest first-quarter level ever issue on the WTO agenda. numbers for the three months euros, from $46.3 million, or 39 biggest market, were flat, while as China captured more of the U.S. apparel and textile im- ended March 31. Dollar figures million euros. On an adjusted those in the rest of Europe rose market from foreign suppliers, ports in March compared with a have been converted at current currency rate, the company said 1.3 percent. Revenue from contributing to the record im- year ago increased 17.5 percent to exchange. sales swelled 20 percent in the North America dropped 7.6 per- port increase. 3.84 billion SME. Textile imports first quarter compared with the cent and that from Asia grew Combined imports in the two were up 25.7 percent to 2.22 billion MARZOTTO same period last year. 25.2 percent. industries rose 10.1 percent to SME and apparel imports rose 7.7 A weak dollar cut into A company spokesman added 10.8 billion square meters equiv- percent to 1.6 billion SME. Marzotto’s sales in the first that orders for Valentino’s fall- BENETTON alent, or SME, driven primarily U.S. imports from several for- quarter, but strong performanc- winter 2004 collection were up At Benetton, a lower tax bur- by an increase of 18.55 percent to eign suppliers were higher in es in its clothing division helped more than 30 percent compared den pushed first-quarter net 6.2 billion SME in textile imports, March. India gained 25.8 percent, the Italian fashion and textile with fall-winter 2003. profit up 12.8 percent to $33.2 according to the Commerce Indonesia, 20.2 percent, Taiwan, company increase its net profit. million. Operating profit Department trade report issued 7.5 percent, South Korea, 37.8 Net profit jumped 37.5 per- TOD’S dropped 15.9 percent to $53.4 Wednesday. Apparel imports percent and Pakistan 28.6 per- cent to $26.1 million from $19 Tod’s said its ongoing retail million. were up 0.31 percent to 4.5 bil- cent. Mexico reversed months of million the same period last expansion and currency fluctu- Benetton said last year’s sale lion SME. declines to rise 12 percent. year. Net consolidated sales ations hit profits in the quarter. of its sporting goods business, China propelled the rise in tex- Some countries, including dropped 2.6 percent to $629 mil- First-quarter net profit along with currency fluctuations, tile imports, mostly in categories Bangladesh, Canada and the lion, or 530 million euros, from plunged 43 percent to $5.6 mil- bit into first-quarter sales, which no longer under quota, including Philippines, posted declines in $645.6 million, or 544 million lion. Sales grew 1.7 percent to slipped 14.1 percent to $452.1 luggage, yarns, sheets, pillowcas- apparel and textile imports to the euros. However, the company $125.3 million, but Tod’s said million. Benetton said revenue es, blankets and tents. Textile im- U.S. in March compared with a said sales rose 6 percent, on an they would have risen 4.7 per- grew 1.4 percent, stripping out ports from China rose 57 percent year ago. In the quarter, imports adjusted currency rate. cent at constant exchange rates. the effects of these two factors. to 1.7 billion SME, while apparel fell 9.6 percent from Bangladesh, Marzotto reported net income Tod’s posted net profit of 4.8 Net profit came in at 28 mil- imports from China increased 17.4 18.1 percent from the Philippines, of 22 million euros and sales of million euros and sales of 105.6 lion euros, while sales were 381 percent to 572 million SME. 13 percent from Thailand, 10.5 530 million euros. While Mar- million euros. million euros. Developing countries and do- percent from Turkey and 4.2 per- zotto’s cash cow, Hugo Boss, gen- Tod’s also said sales figures — Courtney Colavita mestic textile and apparel groups cent from Sri Lanka. erated the majority of first-quar- were penalized, as it shifts more and Amanda Kaiser are bracing for the elimination of Meanwhile, the Commerce apparel and textile quotas on Jan. Department said Wednesday it 1 by the 147 countries of the would penalize Vietnam for World Trade Organization. The Customs violations by reducing Bush administration last year, at the apparel and textile imports Fin.part Future Lies in Licensing the behest of the U.S. textile in- it ships to the U.S. Vietnam’s dustry, imposed safeguard quotas quotas will be trimmed by 2.5 MILAN — Fin.part released its Fin.part. As reported, Mazzola the three months ended March because of “market disruption” percent based on volume and 4.5 long-awaited plan to emerge and his Swiss banker Carlo 31, which compares with a profit on three Chinese textile and ap- percent based on dollar value as from its crippling debt and, as Pagani bought up a large por- of 5.1 million euros, or $6.05 mil- parel categories in which quotas a result of an investigation that speculated, it involves striking tion of Fin.part founder lion, in the year-earlier period. had been removed in 2002. revealed 12 million garments licensing deals for its brands, Gianluigi Facchini’s stake in the Fin.part noted first-quarter A coalition of 66 textile and were falsely identified in appar- which include Cerruti and company late last year. Together, numbers were boosted by the apparel associations represent- el and textile shipments. Frette. Mazzola and Pagani are sale of the Moncler brand. But ing 36 countries have signed the The U.S. imposed quotas on 38 “Fin.part is changing its ‘oc- Fin.part’s largest shareholders, the company said Tuesday it Istanbul Declaration for Fair apparel and textile import cate- cupation,’ giving up its past role currently holding 23.7 percent will buy back control of Moncler, Trade in Textiles & Clothing gories from Vietnam on May 1, as an industrial and commercial of the company. Last week, spending 28 million euros, or and are calling for an extension 2003. The quotas were expected player to transform itself into a Facchini stepped down as ceo. $33.20 million, for 75 percent of of quotas beyond 2005. to limit the value of Vietnamese ‘value manager’ equipped with A Fin.part spokesman added the company. U.S. officials have said they re- apparel imports to $1.65 billion a portfolio of brands of quality, the company is already in talks Fin.part said sales for the main committed to the phaseout, in the first 12 months. notoriety and high-growth po- with potential licensees and an- quarter dropped on a compara- tential,” the company said in a nouncements could come in a ble basis by 15.4 million euros, statement accompanying a nine- matter of weeks. He said or $18.26 million, to 99 million page PowerPoint presentation Fin.part’s aim is to give licensees euros, or $117.38 million. It of tables and flowcharts. managerial control of the group’s noted sales fell in every division Loft Lifts Ann Taylor Fin.part said it wants to manufacturing assets. except for those of sportswear strike long-term licensing deals “The next step could be that unit Pepper Industries, which NEW YORK — Rapid sales stores were brought in during the for each of its brands and sell the franchisee then offers to buy saw sales rise 7.4 percent. growth from Ann Taylor Loft quarter, the full impact of which off noncore assets, a plan it the factories,” he explained, As of March 31, Fin.part’s net and an improvement in cost of has yet to be felt. “Fall will repre- said will generate a constant adding Fin.part’s ultimate goal debt stood at 350.9 million sales awarded Ann Taylor sent the first efforts of the new de- profit flow from royalties and is to be a company that owns a euros, or $416.06 million, com- Stores Corp. earnings gains of sign leadership,” said Jessup. an average gross profit of about bunch of brands but no produc- pared with 406.6 million euros, 77.2 percent for the first quarter. However, it was the compa- 33 million euros, or $39.13 mil- tion facilities. He also said vari- or $482.11 million, at the same “The emphasis on color, fash- ny’s Ann Taylor Loft concept lion at current exchange rates, ous stores and showrooms could time the year before. Fin.part ion and value resulted in excep- that ultimately drove earnings per year. also be on the block. also needs to come up with cash tional full-priced sales across and generated excitement The strategic plan is the first Fin.part also released first- to pay back 200 million euros, or every product category,” said J. among consumers and manage- glimpse of chairman and inter- quarter numbers. The company $237.14 million, worth of Cerruti Patrick Spainhour, chairman ment alike. Sales for the division im chief executive officer posted a pretax loss of 11.5 mil- bonds due this July. and chief executive officer, dur- increased 54.6 percent to $185.4 Gianni Mazzola’s vision for lion euros, or $13.64 million, for — A.K. ing the company conference call. million from $119.9 million. For the three months ended “Healthy comps combined May 1, the New York-based re- with prolific store openings tailer saw income explode to make Loft one of the most com- $31.8 million, or 65 cents a dilut- pelling growth stories in the in- Douglas Perfumeries Sales Increase ed share, compared with earn- dustry,” said Spainhour. ings of $17.9 million, or 39 cents, According to Katherine Krill, in the year-ago quarter. president of the Loft division, BERLIN — Sales of Douglas euros, for the January-to-March and Danish markets, and is now Sales for the period spiked new fashions generated excite- Perfumeries increased 2.9 per- period. Comparable figures for active in 15 countries. 23.1 percent to $433.2 million ment and spurred customers to cent to $852 million, or 719 mil- 2003 are not available. — Melissa Drier from $352 million. shop more often. “Our full- priced lion euros, for the first half of the For the first six months Sales for the company’s Ann business was so strong for the fiscal year ending in September, ended March 31, sales of the 376 P&G to Assume China Operations Taylor division, which cele- first quarter that we dramatically Douglas Group said Wednesday. Douglas perfumeries outside of brates its 50th anniversary in altered our in-store promotion All dollar figures are converted Germany rose 9.2 percent to NEW YORK — Procter & Gamble August, rose 6 percent to $213.4 pricing,” said Krill. “We did not from the euro at current ex- $329.4 million, or 278 million will take over its operations in million from $201.3 million. anniversary five of our planned euros, the company said. Non- China with a $1.8 billion buyout Jerome Jessup, senior execu- promotions from last year due to German doors now contribute 39 of Hong Kong-based Hutchinson tive vice president of merchan- the sales and margin strength and percent of total perfumery sales, Whampoa Ltd.’s remaining 20 dise and design for Ann Taylor momentum we experienced.” BEAUTY BEAT compared with 36 percent a year percent stake in a venture be- Stores, noted on the call that only Going forward, the company ago. At home, 415 Douglas doors tween the two companies. P&G- three promotional events were has opened a new stream of rev- change rates. saw sales dip slightly to $522.6 Hutchinson Ltd., a venture es- held between February and enue, having launched anntay- Douglas did not release sec- million, or 441 million euros, tablished in 1988, produces and March of this year, compared with lorloft.com on May 3, which is ond-quarter figures, but based compared with $526.1 million, or distributes hair and skin care seven in the previous year. Jessup producing “exciting results thus on the group’s first-quarter re- 444 million euros, in the compa- products in China. The transac- also pointed out that a new cre- far,” Krill said. port, perfumery sales reached rable 2003 period. Douglas re- tion is expected to be completed ative director and director of —Ross Tucker $316.4 million, or 267 million cently entered the Slovakian June 18, P&G stated. 14 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004

PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer Associate Fit Model/Design Asst. Must be able to spot design and fabric HEIGHT: 5’7" PRODUCTIONS trends, develop new designs for coordi- BUST: 35" Samples and patterns full servcie shop nates & sets, boys (infants to 20), both BRA SIZE: 34B to the trade. Fine fast work. branded and private label. Technical WAIST: 27" APPAREL CLOSEOUTS 212-869-2699. We buy men’s, women’s & children’s and graphic design a plus. Part time LOW HIP: 37" apparel. Large quantities wanted. available. Please fax resume with salary ACROSS SHOULDER: 14 1/2" Bobby 212-997-7465 [email protected] requirements to: (212) 594-2604 Weare a leading import co. specializing PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD in knitwear with an immediate opening. High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- The Junior fit model’s primary respon- sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 DESIGNER ASST sibility is daily fit sessions. Other re- CHILDRENSWEAR/GIRLS sponsibilities include flat sketching in Flat Sketching on a computer req’d. Illustrator, tracking samples with over- Must know Illustrator/Photoshop. seas offices and maintaining line sheets. Fax resume to 212-868-9279 attn: JS Must have strong verbal and written communication skills and be computer literate. Great opportunity for recent college graduate. Pls. contact Patricia @ DESIGNER (212) 398-1110 ext. 206 Established circular knit fabric co. 36th St. Showroom-Offices-Brand New seeks a designer with exp in circular 900, 1500, 2200, 3500, 8000 FASHION RESUMES knits fabrics. Must be acquainted with Freelance Designer All Sizes-Hot Lofts-Low Prices SINCE 1970 a variety of yarns. Computer literate. Urban Men’s Children Apparel Market Prime Manhattan Scott 212-268-8043 Candidate will work directly with mill Experience a must with brand name co. For Fashion and Retailing &besavvy w/ today’s fabrics and fash- Call Nathan 212-868-3351 Professional Resumes Inc. ion trends. Creative environment. NY Lifetime Updating/ based. Fax resume: 201-221-7771 Graphic Artist A leading manufactures of ladies and Telephone Interviews children’s cosmetics in midtown Rush Service Available DESIGNER Manhattan looking to fill a new posi- 60 East 42nd Street Suite 839 Major children’s wear company seeks a tion. minimum of 3-5 years experience. girls designer for its licensing division. please respond vial email to: New York, NY 10165 Candidate should have experience in [email protected] 212-697-1282 / 800-221-4425 designing girls infant, toddler and www.resumesforfashion.com 4/6X garments as well as technical GRAPHIC ARTIST knowledge of embroideries, appliques Major apparel company seeks Graphic Associate Knitwear Designer and screen prints. Character license Artist with mens/boys experience. Seeking candidate with a min 5 yrs experience a plus. Must be Mac profi- Must know Photoshop and Illustrator. exp in sweater knits in Junior sweater cient. Full time only. Fax resume to: Great opportunity. market. Must have knowledge of yarns, 212-967-8108 attn: Elissa Fax resume to 212-239-2766 PATTERNMAKER guages, specs and have incredible Min. 5 years exp. in the designer follow up skills. Ideal person is able HEATHERETTE Designer market. Excellent knowledge of fit to research the trim and yarn markets High-end contemporary sptswr. co. For Space in Garment Center and run a domestic sample room. Missy Designer with great spirit & energy has the Helmsley-Spear, Inc. & expertise in bias dresses. Only qualified candidates need apply. Import Co. seeks talented, energetic following opportunities available. 212-880-0414 FABRIC & TRIM BUYER E-mail resumes to: [email protected] designer for exciting new Missy line. ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Exp’d. in designer market with high Must have at least 3-5 years Missy exp. Seeking individual with min. 3+ yrs. Cad Artist Need to be proficient on Adobe exp. in apparel design. Will asst. Designer GREAT SPACE. NO FEE. taste level. Fast paced problem Seeking individual with min 4 yrs exp Photoshop 7.0 & Illustrator 10.0. Must in all aspects of garment development. 3,000-30,000 SqFt solver, team player. to Cad gmts and layouts for Junior be reliable & able to work independently Creativity, organization & a team player Call me. I’ll show you. 212-921-2850 sweaters and cut &sew knits. Must be on projects and able to meet deadlines is required. Computer literate, Photoshop, Allan Gallaway Bernstein R.E. Fax resume: able to handle multiple tasks in a fast Excellent opportunity! Illustrator exp. desired. 212-594-1414 x251 MERCHANDISE paced environment and have a good Please fax resumes to 212-869-2781 TECH DESIGNER color sense. No freelancers please. attn: Cathy Seeking individual to translate Designer’s Showrooms & Lofts MANAGER Fax resume att: Kathy 212-768-8264 drawings into proper tech packs. Small BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Jump Apparel domestic prod’n, but majority overseas. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail CAREERS IN APPAREL Designer Exp. in denim & sptswr., 4 yrs. required. PRODUCTION Photoshop & Illustrator exp. required. ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Exciting opportunity to join In Production - Techn. Design + Design PAUL FRANK INDUSTRIES See Listings @ www.ApparelStaffing.com KIDS DESIGNER Excellent working environment with MANAGER growth opportunities. Please send the team at Jump Apparel, Needed for fast growing Or Fax Resume to: (212) 302-1161 Fully responsible for entire product design process to include market all inquiries with resume & salary a national leader in prom accessories company. requirements to: [email protected] and special occasion dress- Consultant / Professor research, mood board creation, Part time/full time employee designing, sketching, specing and fit. es, as our corporate mer- School seeks P/T College Fashion Pro- needed with experience in fessor w/ about 10 yrs teaching exp. Hv Must have three to five years design chandise manager. Respon- experience. Prior design experience IMPORTER forecasting, pricing and taught Photoshop / Illustrator U4ia pre- INFANT TOYS 215 West 40th Street sibilities include the direct ferred. Excellent pay. Fax:212-619-0557 working with kids clothing a plus. Sublet furnished showroom/office production. Please contact Kindly fax or email your resume: Small, busy NJ office seeks motivated, space. Approximately 800 Sq. Ft. development of the product Cynthia at 212-594-4999. Costing Engineer to $65K. Min. 1-2 yrs. [email protected] detail oriented indiv. w/ extensive exp. Bathroom/Kitchen. Available immedi- lines with the designers, exp. in costing prototype bras required. fax: (949) 515-7011 in all aspects of import procedures & ately. Please call Joanne 212-391-8222 from concept through com- Calculate yields. Computerize. Mdtwn lrg documents including ocean/air frt. co. Benefits. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Custom’s entries & inventory control. pletion at targeted price AS400/EDI aplus.Emailresume, 525 7th Avenue points and maintain time Major Apparel Co. seeks: Design Assistant Designer MUST include salary requirements. Shared, furnished showroom. Utilities and action calendars for de- [email protected] included. $3000.00/month. Please call Asst. Shipping Manager - Major Intimate Apparel manufacturer Sleepwear/Daywear Corey at: (212) 354-6900 ext. 201 sign and production. Candi- seeks a highly motivated designer Seasoned pro with excellent taste lev- date should have a strong Org., hard-working, exp. w/ with strong CAD skills, great trend & el. Must be able to identify emerging Import Prod. Coordinator dept. store shipping & EDI. color sense. Midtown Loc. Fax resume trends and silhouettes. Must possess Girlswear Co. seeks exp. Production understanding of retail & cover letter, MUST include salary great color, print and embroidery Coordinator, accustomed to fast paced sales plans and be articu- A/R - factor receivable and reqs to: 212-684-3254 Attn: Design sense. Must be able to make 1st pat- business. Must be organized and have late in presenting retail reconciliation. tern, manage sample workers, follow strong communication and computer Fax resume to 212-405-5071 up with fabric vendors, maintain clear skills. Technical a plus. strategies to our customers. Design Associate records, knowledge of fit and garment Fax resume to 212-869-2781, Attn. Cathy WE NEED SHOWROOM TO SHARE A retail background at the construction. Candidate will be respon- management level would Donnkenny’s private label division, sible for line development within a In the area of 1407 Broadway Admin Since 1967 with a broad range of knit/woven team environment. Must be able to Menswear Merchandiser Call Bobbie 212-997-7465 be helpful. Candidates W-I-N-S-T-O-N product, is looking for an experienced meet deadlines. We offer a competitive Leading menswear company seeks should be well organized Design Associate with an updated salary and benefits. Please fax resume, highly organized individual with at missy taste level. including salary requirements to: least 5 years experience in men’s and must have strong skills APPAREL STAFFING bottoms, knowledge in garment and DESIGN*SALES*MERCH Lady Ester Lingerie Attn: utilizing outlook, excel The right person must be extremely de- Peter Cooper Fax # 212-889-7235 fabric construction. WEB, PDM & CAD ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION required. High salary paid for an spreadsheets and word. (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 tail oriented and very well organized. This individual will prepare sample de- ambitious team player looking to grow. velopment packages, including compu- Established. Jr. Import Co. Seeks Box#M 1049 Please e-mail your resume terized flat sketches, print/embroidery c/o Fairchild Publications and salary requirements to ANGELS layouts, specs. Clear understanding of Assistant Designers 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl [email protected] garment construction and spec require- 1 - 2 years experience in the Jr. Active/ New York, NY 10001 Asst. Junior Jeanswear Designer ment is a must. Responsibilities will Denim area. Must be Photoshop 7 and for immediate consideration Creative, organized, experienced in also include fabric/trim sourcing, as Illustrator proficient. Merchandise jeanswear specs/fluent in Chinese, well as creating presentation boards, New Patented Dye Process overseas travel, diligent worker, Company with patented dye process, following up with fabric vendors and Production Coordinator expert sketcher. If this is you, sample makers, tracking of sample de- serious retailers reaction from many Fax resume to Miriam (212) 719-4074 1 - 2 years experience. Must be detail majors, seeking best firms in categories velopment, maintaining clear records oriented individuals to assist in all as- of all the development aspects. Profi- of cotton/lycra, pique (polos), denim, pects of production Apparel Mfr. is looking to fill the fleece, & knits to meet retailers demands. ciency in Illustrator, Photoshop and Excel required. Please Fax or E-mail all resumes to: following position: Please e-mail: [email protected] A/P Associate 212-944-8813 / [email protected] High vol. kids clothing imprtr seeks RETAIL MERCHANDISE COORDINATOR MERCHANDISER detail oriented A/P per. Strong exp in Weoffer a competitive salary and bene- Northeast Territory: Immediate opportunity availa- multi warehousing, work w/ min. fits. Please send resume, including NY, NJ, PA, CT, MA, MD sprvsn. Multi div, Great Plain system salary requirements to: Human Resour- Seeking motivated self-starter to ble for a Men’s Merchandiser. ces, DONNKENNY, 1411 Broadway, ETRO maximize retail sales. Responsibilities exp. a + This Italian House of luxury goods seeks Fiscal responsibilities include Email resumes to New York, NY 10018; fax (212)790-3910; include: presentation of merchandise, or email: Exp’d. Pros for their new Rodeo Drive interfacing with store management sales, stock, markdowns, [email protected] or location. Be a part of a company with the fax 212-736-1753 [email protected] and educating sales associates. Travel CHINA CONNECTION receipts, gross margins (indicating position title in subject unrelenting pursuit of quality and In Changshu; China’s Textile & Garment required. and turn. Will develop area). distinction. FAX OR MAIL RESUME - Attn: G.O. Center. Expatriot manager/staffed with EOE M/F/D/V •STORE MANAGER Textile Engineers and 15 experienced field classification/ item plans ASSISTANT 2275 E. 37th Street •ASSISTANT MANAGERS Los Angeles, CA 90058 Q/C. Equipped with modern testing aids that support the departmen- •F/T & P/T SALES ASSOCIATES such as Lightbox & Spectrometers. Use DESIGNER 323-584-5955 NO PHONE CALLS us for coordination, Q/C, consolidation, tal and strategic plan. Main- Junior sportswear manufacturer seek- DONNKENNY Excellent compensation/benefits package. or sourcing. E-mail: [email protected] tain strong communication ing a highly motivated,self dependable Fax resume, salary history & references indv. to assist with presentation in confidence to: 212-317-1550 with the division, planners, boards, sketching,etc.Must have excel- Design Associate PATTERNMAKER allocators and sales team. lent follow up skills. Exp. and knowl- Brand & Private label, an established CHINA-QUOTA FREE Est’d luxury RTW co. seeks creative indiv firm is seeking experienced, 10 year +, All categories incl cotton jeans. High BA/BS required along with edge of trim&fabric market a plus. to join our team. Responsibilities include Fabric Purchasing Manager Please fax resumes to : 212-736-3496. patternmaker to join our production quality, large vol., FOB or LDP. Call trend spotting, fabric/trim sourcing, The ideal candidate will have experience team. Product includes stretch & woven excellent analytical & sketching, & coordinating 1st sample Scott 212-719-2450/Victor 323-266-7711 communication skills. in fabric purchasing in the designer jackets, bottom & dresses. Both woven development. Must have excellent follow- market. Exp w/European mills a must. & knit fabric. Candidate MUST be able Assistant Patternmaker up skills. Fax resume (212) 755-0507 We offer a competitive Position requires individual to be highly to work with spec, technical package Women’s high-end apparel company organized, analytical & a self-starter. Must and correction for production pattern. PATTERN/SAMPLES salary and comprehensive seeks Assistant Patternmaker. Must Designer $65-85K. Current exp. in girls 7-14 also have experience in negotiating price, Good salary & benefit for the right person. Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast have experience. Work on samples to denim-based sptswr. Must hang w/ LEI, Mudd, min & deliveries. Excel a must. Please contact Clare at 212-302-8200 benefits program. production. Couture level evening work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Please fax resume to: etc but w/ Abercrombie & Fitch + Hollister Fax/email resume to (212) 947-6480 or Ext 103 or fax resume to (212) 221-3726 wear. Knowledge of Lectra system. looks. Creative. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy [email protected] (212) 632-4322 Excellent work environment and pay. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Please send resume: or email Camille Ashby, 499 Seventh Avenue Designer $70-90K. Current exp. in jr. casu- FASHION OPPORTUNITIES Patternmaker / Draper PRODUCTIONS [email protected] 18th Floor - South Tower New York, al wear, Anorak jackets, etc with Artists - Designers - Merchandisers - Eveningwear/Suits/Couture Fabric - M - F All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. EOE M/F NY 10018 212-271-6111 or Email Abercrombie & Fitch + Hollister looks. Production - Sales - Technical - Etc. Call Sherry 212-719-0622. [email protected] Creative. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy Call Barbara Murphy (212) 643-8090 (agcy) 212-226-6066 WWD, THURSDAY, MAY 13, 2004 15

PATTERNMAKER

Head Patternmaker Sales Personnel 10 yrs exp w/ 1st patterns thru prod and fit knowledge w/ boning and heavily structured foundations for Day/Eve col- DAMIANI lections including prod trouble shoot- ing and working closely w/ factories A leader in Italian branded luxury jewelry, we are expanding domestic/off shore. Fax to Jennifer at our sales force and seek qualified & enthusiastic candidates. Shoshanna 212-719-0745. Prior related sales experience is a must, as well as excellent JUNIOR SALES REP Patternmakers/Sample Cutters communication skills. Experience in the luxury market is preferred. Established evening wear couture co Founded in 1999, this seeks experienced patternmakers and WHOLESALE SALES growing Latin inspired life cutters. One of a kind dresses. Responsible for sales to key, up-scale jewelry retailers, Please call: 212-944-7144 style brand seeks Reps with extensive and frequent travel is required. well established relationships PR Coordinator RETAIL SALES at mid-tier & Dept. stores. New York based Fashion Design Com- Sales positions available at soon to open Madison Avenue pany seeking public relations coordina- Must be with DMM’s & GMM’s. tor 1-2 years experience. Please fax Flagship Boutique. Proficiency in foreign language(s) is a +. resume to 212-529-8257 Fax resume Attn. Sales at: We offer competitive compensation and benefits packages. (818) 365-7141 Product Develop. Assoc. Send resume with salary history and requirements to: For Mens/Boys & Girls swimwear E-mail: [email protected] or Fax: (212) 760-2796 and wovens importer. Execution of product packages & communication skills with overseas factories essential. 3 yrs experience. Account Executive Sales Executive Fax resume to 212-695-1050 Brand sportswear co. seeks seasoned Established Los Angeles based co. AE. Must have 3+ yrs managing dept Femina Intimates seeks reps to launch Junior Knits store accts. Excellent package. new mid-priced contemporary lingerie Well recognized sweater company Product Development Fax resume to 212-695-9483 or email: line. Must have strong contacts with looking for New York Rep. Assistant [email protected] dept and specialty stores. All territo- Please fax: 718-323-9771 Responsibilities will include tracking ries available. Starting monthly draw protos and samples, follow-up and data with great commission rates. Private entry, communicating daily with over label experience a plus. Please email seas and working closely with Design resumes to [email protected] or Team. Must have good organizational, fax to 413-638-8349. communication and computer skills. LINGERIE Please fax resume, attn. Claudia Sanchez Sales Executive Aubade, leader in French luxury seduction Account Executive lingerie, is seeking an Independent Sales (917) 777-0508 Seeking energetic and motivated Acct Est’d vertical Sweater co seeks exp’d sales w/ min 3 year exp reqd, computer Rep with est’d. account base for Central Exec. 2-3 years exp in designer contem- states. 10% Commission. Fax or E-mail to: PRODUCTION porary market a must. &presentation skills are essential, Importer seeks production coordinator strong connection w/mass merchants 212-686-7211 / [email protected] Fax resume and salary requirement to Or visit our website: www.aubade.com for mens, boys & girls swimwear and Shari at Shoshanna 212-719-0745 OR major dept, specialty chain stores, wovens. Must be familiar with over- Excl. Sal/Comm seas imports. Fax resume/acct.list: 212-921-3609 Please fax resume to 212-695-1050 BILL BLASS SALES EXECUTIVE VP OF SALES & Hip showroom representing Italian sports SALES OPPORTUNITY Quality Control wear collections, need individual with A well established lingerie company is Manager ACCOUNT EXEC min. 3 yrs. experience in sales of trendy looking to revamp its sales team with Bridal and Better Evening Dress manu- collections. Specialty stores and depart- energetic, experienced reps capable of Must have exp. in day to day manage- ment proven relationship a must. Also producing in today’s global economy. ment of a Domestic Apparel QC Dep’t. facturer seeks entrepreneurial, exp’d VPofSales and Acct Exec. Candidate travel US and Europe and participate If you have proven, on-going, relation- as well as assisting in the development to trade shows. If you have the right ships w/ decision makers in national or of processes, compliance manual, pro- must be aggressive, energetic, have established relationships with dept energy email resume with salary req’s. regional store groups, we’d like to talk cedures, & systems to increase the [email protected] to you. Pls fax your resume: 514-721-9201 overall quality of our product & man- and specialty stores. Must have ability agement of our vendors. Experience re- to bring in accounts and build busi- quired in the QC of sweaters & knits ness. Please fax resume: 212-719-0109. Showroom Sales and manageing 3rd party factory com- European Contemporary Showroom seeks pliance companies. Needs to be ener- Candidate with minimum one year’s getic, highly organized & have excel- Corporate Sales experience in selling to both Major and lent sense for prioritizing. Position is Prominent wholesaler of imported Jr. Specialty stores. E-mail resume to: at our NJ location. Please send resume Sportswear seeks motivated East Coast [email protected] & salary requirements to: Salesperson with at least 3 years experi- SWIMWEAR [email protected] or ence. Must have current buyer contacts Showroom Sales Est’d. Co. (40+ years in business) seeks fax 201-854-4834 w/major East Coast retailers. Fax resumes/ European designer Footwear & Handbag Sales Reps to sell popular priced Large salary history attn. Sales at: 206-282-4258 Showroom seeks Sales Candidate with Size Constructed, Missy Constructed, and SALES ASSISTANT minimum two years Showroom experi- Jr./Contemporary to Specialty Stores/ Growing ladies apparel co. located in Daywear/Panties/Sleepwear ence selling to Major and Specialty Chains, Mail Order Catalogs, etc. Must NYC seeks detail oriented and self stores. E-mail resume to: have current following. Other lines ok. Est’d. Lingerie Co. seeks Account Execs. [email protected] Fax to HR Dept. at: 212-730-8452 motivated indiv. to assist sales, customer Only experienced candidates need apply. service, follow-thru, clerical etc. Must Please Fax resumes to: 212-889-8411 have 2 yrs exp. as well as knowledge of computer. Fax resume to 212-768-3588 Attn: Michelle T. HOSIERY SALES Well est’d legwear company with popular brand & license, offering complete women Samplehand & men’s socks, trouser sock & tight lines Very exp’d. only. Blouses in satin, to EXPERIENCED REPS with following Georgettes. Cut, sew first fit samples. only. Would consider in house position English a must. Call 212-768-7322. for the right person. Please send resumes, cover letter and salary expectations to: E-mail: [email protected] or SAMPLE MAKER Fax: (212) 279-6111 Fashion trend company seeks sample maker experienced in all aspects of ISHYU & costume jewelry. Some overtime required. Send resume to: 212-481-4244. CARLIE’S COURT SALES Senior CAD Operator Highly regarded brand of moderate Experienced person required for mens/ and better separates and leader in boys and girls swim importer, using blouses and skirts seeks dynamic and u4ia, illustrator & photoshop. aggressive sales persons with a mini- Please fax resume: 212-629-3959 mum of 5 years experience who is searching for an ambitious career change. Must be well connected and Sewing Supervisor motivated to develop and maintain existing major accounts and able to Men’s Clothing; Min. 5 years exp. with merchandise, travel, organize show- all types of sewing machines. Brooklyn room and be fully computer literate. location. Salary + benefits. References The right candidate will be compensated req’d. Fax resume: 718-853-8805 EOE with a very attractive salary package and/or commission including medical benefits and bonus. SPEC TECHNICIAN Please email Major childrenswear importer of girls [email protected] &boys infant 2/6X-7 knit and or Phone: 212-221-2001 X202 woven sportswear seeks spec or Fax: 514-389-2880 technician. The right candidate must have minimum 3 years experience and knowledge of patternmaking and Missy & Plus Sizes garment construction. Knowledge of Est’d. Missy Sportswear & Dress Co. seeks Excel a must. Sales Pro. Solid relationships with Dept. Please fax resume with salary Stores, Specialty Chains, and Catalogs requirements to 212-967-8108 Attn: CB req’d. Must be a team player, have knowl- edge of the competition & marketplace, and most of all; be able to manage a SWEATER DESIGNER business. Please Fax or E-mail resumes: Fast paced Women’s Sportwear Co. 323-725-3304 / [email protected] seeks sweater designer with min 5 years exp in better or contemporary market. Must have strong technical Sales/Brand Manager/100k+ knowledge and have contacts with Junior/Urban/City Wear factories and yarn agents. This very "hot" Jr. branded license has Web Based ERP, Production, Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 been newly acquired & needs an exp brand mgr to launch it within this very Sourcing & Supply Chain Visibility successful & growing Urban/City wear multi brand/mkt co. Req: exp in this Technical Designer mkt (hanging w/FUBU, Rocawear, www.ngcsoftware.com L.A. based Co. 5+ years exp. Children’s Ecko Red, Pepe etc.), strong sales, New York (212) 369-3778 Wear knowledge. Excel, Illustrator req’d. marketing, merchandising abilities. Exp. w/Wal*Mart preferred. E-mail resume E-mail resume: cburke@ccburke. Miami (305) 556-9122 & salary history: [email protected] (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Today’s stain-resistant cotton isn’t afraid of a few spills. Buy it for what it does. Buy it for what it doesn’t do. Cotton. 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