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The

The Pilgrims’ Ways to in (XII c.) was á gina 3 The route, in France thanks to the efforts of thanks to the efforts to be Alphonse VI and his an essential reference from the from , including comments French Way French

Codex Calixtinus, behind promoting the sanctuary of Santiago behind promoting stretches of the stretches lands of Gaul and offers detailed lands of Gaul and offers information on the sanctuaries Santiago. It enumerates the different found along the way guide describing the pilgrimage to on the hospitality, the people, food, on the hospitality, Book V of this codex is a bona-fide medieval natural springs, local customs, etc. The entire work natural springs, local customs, etc. The entire work providing details of the pilgrimage tradition. work providing is written clearly and succinctly, a practical answer is written clearly and succinctly, 1135 in the to a specific demand: the pilgrimage Santiago. and were described in detail around the year described in detail around and Spain were This guide, attributed to the French cleric, Aymeric This guide, attributed to the French promotion. of the Way The principal routes Picaud, reveals the political and religious interest that interest the political and religious Picaud, reveals successors, who took care of its construction and successors, who took care lay de Navarra y Aragón, as well de Compostela and making it easily monarchs like Sancho III the Greater and Sancho Ramírez like Sancho III the Greater monarchs accessible, yet it also bears testimony to the established in the late 11th century demand for this type of information. At the which crosses the north of Iberian Peninsula, which crosses time of the writing this book, French to Santiago and the best known internationally. Way and the pilgrimages reached their heyday and the pilgrimages reached Way The French Way is the most traditional of all pilgrims’ ways Way The French and maximum stream of visitors –not counting and maximum stream The French Way The French the present time– Santiago became the goal of the present all pilgrims from the entire Christian world. the entire all pilgrims from This surge of pilgrims was so intense that it This surge prompted a Moslem Ambassador to comment prompted 3 Way The French FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:09 P

Translation S.L. Interlingua Traduccións Olson Teed Claire Revision and updating Carraig Linguistic Services Design and Lay-out Permuy Asociados Printing LITONOR D.L.: C 2648-2009 á gina 2

Photography da S.A. de Xestión Arquivo do Plan Xacobeo Arias Tono advice Technical da Dpto. de Arquitectura S.A. de Xestión do Plan Xacobeo Revision Dori Abuín Carla Fernández-Refoxo Carmo Iglesias Alfonso Salgueiro

Texts Manuel Rodríguez Editing Ana B. Freire Rosa García Documentation: pilgrims’ hostels and services Pilar Cuíña Rosa Fernández Ana B. Freire Rosa García Rubio Coroni FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:09 P FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:10 Página 4 FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:10 Página 5

that “the throng of worshippers who travel to Santiago and back is so great that there is almost no room left on the road leading to the west”. The Aragón Way in Irache

Over the centuries and with the political and religious avatars From Puente la Reina onwards, the French Way follows a single in Europe, the physical route ofthe French Way lost much of its route as far as the city of Santiago, passing through cities and former influence. Indeed, it was not until the end of the 19th towns of note in the north of Spain such as Estella, Logroño, Santo century that there was a resurgence of interest in the question Domingo de la Calzada, Burgos, Castrojeriz, Frómista, Carrión de los of Saint James and the pilgrimage way, which continuedinto Condes, Sahagún, León, Astorga, Ponferrada and . the second half of the 20th century, with the progressive The Bierzo region, which, throughout history has enjoyed strong ties restoration and recovery of the ancient wayinternationally with Galicia,is the gateway to Galicia for this French Way,a territory, recognised as one of the historical symbols of European unity. described by Aymeric Picaud as being “abundant in woods and the countryside is pleasant with its rivers, meadows and rich apple orchards, Itineraries its excellent fruit and pristine fountains; cities, towns and farmlands are few and far between. It is lacking in wheat bread and wine, but abounds The French Wayacquired a specific itinerary in France through in rye bread and cider, cattle and horses, milk and honey, in fish from the the four main routes described in the Codex Calixtinus. sea both large and small; it is rich in gold and silver and in cloth and the Three of these routes (París-Tours, Vézelay-Limoges and pelts of wild animals. It has other riches, most notably Saracen Le Puy-Conques) enter Spain after crossing the Pyrenees treasures”. Twenty-first century pilgrims will be able to see for themselves through Roncesvalles, in Navarra, while the fourth route what remains and what has changed in this narration, caughthalfway (Arlés-Toulouse) crosses the border over the Somport pass between reality and legend. and continues on to Jaca, in the region of Aragón. The Roncesvalles route, which goes through the city of Pamplona, The pages that follow highlight the peculiarities of this route as it travels Santiago Cathedral prior to the construction of the current Baroque facade (XVII c.) joins the Aragonese route in Puente la Reina (Navarra). through the lands of Galicia.

Bridge over the River Garonne. Toulouse Quintana Square.

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View of O Cebreiro O Cebreiro – O Cebreiro is alsoa major ethnographic site. Its principal landmark is the group of ,small dwellings of Pre-Roman origin,circular in shape, which are characteristic of the northwest part of the Iberian Peninsula. The French Way crosses over into Galicia from , after leaving For years they have been used as community and cultural centres and Ferrerías, and begins its arduous climbsurrounded by a spectacular one of them houses the ethnographic museum.O Cebreiro also has one landscape of mountains, passing through the villages of La Faba and of the most popularhostels for pilgrims along the way. The Miracle of Laguna de Castilla, until it reaches the mountain pass of O Cebreiro O Cebreiro Chalice From O Cebreiro, continuing along through the mountains (altitude over (1,300 m), located in the province of .One kilometre outside this town 1,000 m) on a route leading to the nearby ranges ofOs Ancaresand stands a small monument announcing that the route is entering Galicia. O Courel,rich in elements related to ethnography, nature and landscape, There are 152 kilometres left before reaching Santiago de Compostela. the traveller reaches Hospital da Condesa. This route covers6 kilometres On the elevation of O Cebreiro stands the village of the same name. that end in a village whose name is reminiscent of the centre of It has a tradition dating back to protohistoric times and has adapted to the assistance foundedat the end of the 9th centuryby Doña Egido. A little harsh climatic conditions of the mountains.The centre of this mythical and farther on lies the village of Padornelo, which formerly belonged to the symbolic village includes thesanctuary of Santa María a Real do Cebreiro medieval fief of the Church of Santiago, where the charitable Order of and the building that formerly housed the old pilgrim hospital,founded Saint John of Jerusalemwas set upto care for and defend the pilgrims. by the French saint Giraldo de Aurillac (9th century). From the mountain pass at O Poio(1,337 m), the highest point on the The Pre-Romanesque church is the oldeston the French Way and was one French Way in Galicia, the route begins its gentle descent towards of the first monuments on the Way to be restored in the early 1960s. Fonfría, and from here, flanked by beautiful and lush panoramic views, Santa María do Cebreiro houses liturgical objects and the sacred remains it arrives at the town of Triacastela, leaving behind villages such as of a famous eucharistic miracle(14th century)in which the species became O Biduedo, Fillobal, Pasantes and Ramil. Mount San Roque flesh and blood in the presence of a local parishioner. The symbolism of

Shrine of Santa María this miracle, which is related to the legend of the Holy Grail, became part a Real do Cebreiro of the coat of arms of Galicia.

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Triacastela –

Triacastela(665 m), which marks the end of one of the final stretches Triacastela Hostel on the French Way, as determined by Aymeric Picaud in the 12th century,still retains its urban layout based on this route. Its name Other pilgrims, however, prefer to head south,seeking out the hospitality appears to allude to “three hillforts” (castros). The Middle Ages left of the monks of the Benedictine Monastery of Samos, who still run the old their mark with the Romanesque apse(12th century)of the Church inn. The stretch leadingto the town of Samos(530 m) offers not only the of Santiago. The nave, façade and bell tower of this building date opportunity to admire the ancient monastery, but also the spectacular from the 18th century. Triacastela had a hospital and even a jail for landscapesbathed by the Sarria river and of villages such as pilgrims, remains of which have been preserved to our times. San Cristovo, Renche and San Martiño. The most typical popular architecture of the area can be found here. During the period when the Cathedral of Santiago was being constructed, some of the pilgrims would pick up small pieces The Monastery of Samosis considered to be one of the oldest in the of limestone from a quarry in Triacastela, which is still functioning western world, with its origins dating back as far as the 6th century. and can be seen from the road, and carry them all the way to the The first monastic community followed the ascetic doctrine of the Coptic limekilns of Castañeda (Arzúa), to be used in the construction monks of the desert, reinforced by the Rule of San Fructuoso.In the late 8th of the basilica of Santiago de Compostela. century the education of King Alphonse II the Chaste was entrusted to Samos, and the monarch would later assist in promoting the discovery On leaving Triacastela the Way forks.It is possible to continue of the tomb of Saint James,which occurred during his reign. After adopting directly on to Sarria, passing through a succession of old villages the Benedictine Rule, in the year 960,the monastery started to take in with a long-standing pilgrimage traditionA – Balsa, San Xil, pilgrims. Around the year 1000, the monks built the unusual Chapel of Montán, Pintín, Calvor and San Mamede do Camiño– and a rural El Salvador, also known as the “Cypress Chapel”, after the enormous Church of Santiago de Triacastela landscape oflush beautywith unusual examples oflocal flora. cypress tree that stands next to the chapel and which is over 1000 years old.

Samos Monastery

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Áspera Bridge. Sarria

In the Modern Age, the economic and cultural efforts of the monastery of Samos were the driving force behind a major architectural renovation. During this process, the Romanesque Church was replaced by a grandiose 18th century church. All that remains of the medieval construction is the interior porch. The smaller cloister of the monastery, started in the late Cloister of the Convent of la Magdalena. Sarria 16th century, is popularly known as the “Nereidas cloister” In this town, from its unusual rúa Maior, one can see high up in the because of the interesting Baroque fountain located in distance the only tower that remains of the medieval fortress belonging the centre. In 1685 construction began on the great to the town. Around this tower, a popular fair is held three times a month cloister, one of the largest in Spain, and the work was not a showcase for the traditional products of the area. completed until 1746. In the centre of this cloister stands the statue of Father Feijoo, the illustrious Benedictine From its medieval past, Sarria conserves the Church of San Salvador, monk who resided at this monastery for a number of years Romanesque in style with a Gothic façade dating from the 14th century at the end of the 17th century. Of the large collection of and the Convent of A Magdalena(at the present time belonging altarpieces in the monastic church, it is the main to the Mercedarian Fathers), founded at the beginning of the altarpiece, crafted by the Galician sculptor, José Ferreiro, 13th century as a pilgrim hospital by the Italian monks of the Order between 1781 and 1785 that is the most noteworthy. of the Blessed Martyrs of Jesus, who were also pilgrims. The present-day building, which houses a small, but lovely cloister Regardless of whether the traveller continues on the route and an interesting church, is a mixture of different styles of of Samos or that of San Xil, both routes converge Sarriaat construction ranging from the 15th to the 18th centuries. (453 m), the most densely populated town on the French Way in Galicia, with over seven thousand inhabitants. It In addition to the hospital of A Magdalena in Sarria, there was in Sarria where King Alphonse IX, founder of this town were others in operation in the area, namely that of Santo and Triacastela, died in 1230 while making a pilgrimage to Antón (16th century), of the foundation of Don Dinís de Santiago de Compostela. Castro, who attended to the pilgrims returning from Santiago, and that of San Lázaro. However, there are also records of others in Aguiada (Calvor), O Carballal (Vilar de Tower of the medieval castle. Sarria Sarria), Santa María (Ortoá) and Goián.

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Sarria – Portomarín

The pilgrim leaves Sarria by crossing the old bridge of A Áspera, on the way to the church ofSantiago de Barbadelo, standing some 4 kilometres away, and after crossing one of the most magnificent ‘carballeiras’ –oak forest– on the Way. This Romanesque church, which belonged to a small monastery, is noteworthy because of its structure and its unusual capitals.

Travelling through a continuous mass of trees, meadows, and farmland, coming across stretches that hint at the remains of old roads, the Way enters the municipality of Paradela.Near the village of Ferreiros stands the 12th century Romanesque Church of Santa María with a sculpted porch composed of a triple archivolt and a lobe-shaped tympanum. There is also a small, but interesting pilgrims’ hostel that looks out over another beautiful ‘carballeira’.

As Cortes is another parish church belonging to Paradela that stands on The martial community of Cáceres the Way. On its land stood the monastery of Santa María de Ribalogio. was joined by the regular canons of Loio, The original church, known today as Santa María de Loio, was the which would account for the dual status of headquarters of theOrder of Saint Jamesof the Sword, founded in clergymen and knights enjoyed

Church of Santiago de Barbadelo 1170 in Extremadura under the name of “freyles de Cáceres”. by the members of the Order of Saint James. Winter pass in Peruscallo In the midst of a sweeping landscape, the route begins its descent Capital of the Church towards the banks of the Miño river, where for the first and only time on of Santiago de Barbadelo the French Way in Galicia the traveller can catch a glimpse of vineyards. To gain access to the town of Portomarín(380 m) it is necessary to cross the bridge built in the early 1960s over theBelesar reservoir,in the Miño river. Water levels permitting, in the distance it is possible to see the arches –still intact– of the old bridge over the Miño river. Also visible are the ruins of the old town of Portomarín, which disappeared under the waters of the reservoir, even though it was one of the most beautiful spots in Galicia as well as being rich in heritage.

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View of Portomarín

Old Portomarín comprised the medieval hamlets of San Pedro The church of San Nicolás of Portomarín and San Nicolásand boasted one of the most famous Roman- belonged to the Order of the Knights of Medieval bridges on the route. The new Portomarín, dating Saint John of Jerusalem, later known as back to the mid 1960s, comes into view as the pilgrim the Order of Malta. approaches the end of the present-day viaduct. The Knights of Saint John protected this Only part of the old manor house and the Romanesque stretch of the Way, as well as the bridge, churches of San Pedro and San Nicolás (today San Xoán) and the two hospitals pertaining to the were moved to the new location of the town. The latter church hamlet of San Pedro. They also looked was built in the late 12th century by a workshop formed by after the hospital of San Nicolás, disciples of Master Mateo, creator of the Portico of Glory in the founded by Doña Urraca. This building, Cathedral of Santiago. The main porch bears testimony to the which is no longer standing, was built in influence of the famous Portico, exhibiting a similar design of 1126 by Master Pedro Deustamben, apocalyptic inspiration. The tympanum displays the Christ figure known as Pedro the Pilgrim. The floor plan seated in a mandorla, framed by archivolts that contain the of the hospital was based on the model of twenty-four Elders of the Apocalypse, playing zithers and other a basilica, with three naves and an apse at instruments, and comprising the court of the Supreme Judge. the head where the chapel was located.

In the hamlet of San Pedro there was another pilgrim hospital and a lepers’ ward attended by the Knights of Saint Lázaro who offered one of the most important charitable and humanitarian services in Portomarín in medieval times. Although the vineyards disappeared with the construction of the Belesar reservoir, Portomarín still produces one of the most acclaimed eau-de-vie liqueurs in Galicia, commemorated by a popular festival held each year.

Church of San Xoán de Portomarín

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Order of Saint James. The Ligonde- stretch was under the protection of the knights of this order for many centuries from 1184 onwards. However, the old monastery of Vilar was not located on the actual Way in order to offer an appropriate environment for retreat and prayer, as required by its inhabitants. Yet they always provided effective vigilance and protection of the route and its surroundings. The church of Vilar de Donas is one of the most outstanding examples of Galician Romanesque Portomarín – Palas de Rei architecturealong the Way. The floor plan of the church is laid out in a Latin cross with three vaulted apses and a transept with groined vaulting. Inside the church there are several interesting Passing through the village of Gonzar, the Way continues on to tombs belonging to Knights of the Order of Saint James in Castromaior, which takes its name from the Pre-Roman hillfort –castro– addition to the extraordinary Gothic frescos that cover most that towers over the local countryside. During the Middle Ages, of the walls of the central apse. The lower area depicts the the hillfort was gradually abandoned and the population settled Cristo Varón de Dolores, the monarchs John II and Mary of in the areas closer to the farmlands and fields and a Romanesque Aragón and their son Henry; the central area portrays the church was erected to attend to the needs of the local worshippers. Annunciation flanking the window that illuminates the altar. Church of San Salvador de Vilar de Donas Here the villages are spaced farther apart; Vendas de Narón, has a The upper part, which is the vault of the apse, is a symbolic chapel consecrated to Mary Magdalene and Os Lameiros, in the painting with allusions to the Last Judgement. These municipality of , is the site of the chapel of San Marcos paintings were commissioned for the Holy Year of 1434, and an interesting cruceiro –wayside cross–. A little farther on, in the during the reign of John II, the protector of the pilgrims, town of Ligonde, important examples of traditional architectural styles and for whom he established a safe-conduct pass. can still be seen. There used to be a pilgrim hospital which is known to have offered lodging to Emperor Charles I and his son, Philip II, The next town on the Way is Palas de Rei (572 m), whose name the most famous of all the 16th century pilgrims comes from a supposed royal palace built in the surrounding area. The modern Church of San Tirso still preserves in tact the Just a short distance away, the Way enters the municipality of Palas de Romanesque porch. The pilgrims’ hostel,located in the centre Rei passing near the church of Vilar de Donas,an old priory of the Monument to pilgrims. of town, has made this little town more lively. Palas de Rei

Mural paintings in the Church of Vilar de Donas

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Walkway over Catasol Stream In Melide(450 m), considered to bethe geographical heart of Galicia, Palas de Rei – Melide the French Way becomes an urban route. The Way runs through this town with a strong pilgrimage tradition and identity.The route is integrated into the town The French Way leaves Palas and heads towards Campo dos Romeiros, which has a strong Jacobean historical identity. It is a medieval centre which was a traditional meeting place for pilgrims, where stray pilgrims were reunited resettled under the reign ofAlphonse IX in the 13th century, around the time with the groups that had cropped up spontaneously over the course of when the Romanesque porch of the Church of San Pedro was built, which today the pilgrimage. This is the region of A Ulloa, a land with a strong dairy forms part of the Chapel of San Roque.Next to the church stands one of the production and known for its delicious cheeses among other acclaimed oldest ‘cruceiros’ –wayside crosses– in Galicia, a Gothic structure dating from traditional products, a land that was immortalised by Emilia Pardo Bazán the 14th century,which bears testimony to the lasting influence of the style of in her novel Los pazos de Ulloa(1886). Master Mateoto be found along the French Way. Not far from this stretch, taking a small detour, the traveller arrives at the The historical part of Melide boasts other artistic treasures: thechurch of fortress of Pambre.A country road leads to the fortress, built by Gonzalo de Sancti Spiritus,founded by the Franciscans in 1375, with tombs of members Ulloa in the late 14th century. This was one of the few Galician castles that of the nobilitydating from the 15th century,and the Romanesque church of escaped the fury of destruction caused by the ‘irmandiños’, in their struggle Santa María de Melide,consisting of a single nave with a semicircular apse, against the nobility in the 15th century. and on the exterior it is lavishly adorned with corbels and two porches. Back on the route, the Way now enters the province of A Coruña, heading The interior still preserves the Romanesque altar tableand the 16th century towards the village of Leboreiro, with a distinct medieval frescosdepicting the mystery of the Trinity as the Throne of Grace. feel. The church still has a number of Romanesque elements from the original construction, Charitable service was another very important part of medieval life in Melide. Its such as the magnificent tympanum of the porch, bearing the image of the hospital, built in 1375, was known to have twenty-four beds,each occupied by two Virgin Maryand a number of 16th century murals.Between Leboreiro and persons, a common practice during the Middle Ages.Melide also had a lepers’ Melide, one of the most beautiful stretches along the Way, the traveller hospital, attended by themonk-knights of the Order of Saint Lazarus. It is possible crosses over the village of Furelos and its narrow river-bed by a splendid to trace the past as well as the traditional customs of Melide and its region by medieval bridge. visiting theTerra de Melide Museum(ethnography, archaeology, research centre, etc.).

Pambre Castle

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Melide – Arzúa

The next stops along the Way after Melide are Boente, with its church Ribadiso pilgrim’s hostel of Santiago, and Castañeda, two small villages with a long-standing In the city of Arzúa(388 m) the French Way merges with the North Way. pilgrimage tradition, the latter being especially important as the site of the In this locality, famous in the region for its superb production of cheese, limekilns used in the construction of the Cathedral of Santiago. The small the pilgrim can observe symbols of the Way to Santiago, such as the rúa pieces of stone that the medieval pilgrims would take from the lime quarries do Camiño, the church of Santiago and, among others, the Gothic of Triacastela and carry here were something more than a mere symbol chapel of A Magdalena, which belonged to another hospital that of their participation in the enterprise of the construction of the cathedral. has since disappeared.

Farther on, the pilgrim crosses the Iso river over a small medieval bridge In Arzúa the native Galician vegetation, which is omnipresent, becomes which leads to another important centre of assistance: the hospital of less prominent. This, however, does not keep the traveller from enjoying Ribadiso,the last historical establishment at the service of the pilgrims the many and varied establishments ofrural tourismoffered in the area to remain open on the French Way. The building, adjacent to the river, around the Portodemouros reservoir, (a wide range of accommodation, was renovated and turned into a pilgrim refuge in 1993, forming an area the Honey Museum, hiking routes, facilities for water sports, etc.). of extraordinary beauty.

The Way in Arzúa

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Arzúa – Santiago de Compostela

Chapel of San Roque. A Lavacolla This section of the Way takes the traveller inland passing After leaving A Lavacolla, the Way now approaches theMonte through meadows, oak and eucalyptus trees that surround do Gozo(380 m), a small hillock from which the pilgrim was the small villages, some of which bear names that echo their able to see, for the first time, in the distance, the towers of the historical connections with the pilgrims’ way: Calzada, Calle, Cathedral of Santiago, hence the name of this spot –the Mount Ferreiros, A Salceda, A Brea, Santa Irene –with an interesting of Joy–. During the Holy Year of Santiago de Compostela in church and fountain– and A Rúa, located at the gates of Arca, the 1993, this hillock was converted into a residential area for capital of the municipality of O Pino, the last one before Santiago. pilgrims and visitors to serve as a meeting place and a leisure Once in the municipality of Santiago, after passing the city’s centre. It situates the pilgrim at the start of the urban stretch airport, the pilgrim reaches the town ofA Lavacolla.Here the that will lead him to the gates of the Cathedral of Santiago. pilgrims of yesteryear, in keeping with the traditional hygienic During the more leisurely section of this leg, the jubilant custom, would wash themselves from head to toe in a little pilgrims would proclaim the first of the group to reach brook that runs through the area. This practice of washing the Monument to Pilgrims the summit of the Monte do Gozo, in Monte do Gozo body thoroughly was also common at a number of hospitals as the “king of the pilgrimage”. along the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago starting with the facilities at Roncesvalles and Navarra. Chapel of Santa Irene

Pilgrims in Arca

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Contemporánea(CGAC) –Galician Museum of Modern Art–, designed by In Santiago the Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza, and which today has become one of the most outstanding exhibition areas for contemporary art in Spain. The French Way enters the urban zone of Santiago (258 m) After passing the Porta do Camiño, the route begins its final stretch through the district of San Lázaro,which has been converted into through narrow pedestrian streets and squares. The first street is Casas a service area housing the Conference and Exhibition Centre, the Reais, lined with a number of important buildings, and where the guild Stadium, a number of administrative buildings belonging to the of money changers was once located. On the left is the small, but autonomous government of Galicia and thePabellón de Galicia charming neo-classical parish church of A Nosa Señora do Camiño, –Pavilion of Galicia–, with a permanent exhibition on Galicia and and continuing on a few metres more, the pilgrim finds the impressive the Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago. The two most important historic chapel of As Ánimas,both dating from the late 18th century and both buildings in this area, although recent, are the old lepers’ hospital having interesting collections open to the public. (19th century) and the Chapel of San Lázaro (mid 20th century). The last stop before entering the basilica is theCervantes square, the first large space for meetings and commerce of historic interest in After passing through the residential area of Fontiñas, where one the city, and where the City Hall stood until the end of the 18th century. of the largest shopping centres of the city is located, the pilgrim The parish church of San Bieito do Campo –18th century–, reachesOs Concheiros,the name of the district and the street, also neo-classical is one of the oldest buildings in this square. with its stalls tended by vendors selling scallop shells to the newly arrived pilgrims. Owing to this tradition the pilgrims were popularly From this point, the traditional route of the French Way follows the known in the city as ‘concheiros’ from the word concha –shell–. street of A Acibechería,with the imposing façade of the monastery of San Martiño Pinario (17th-18th centuries) on the right, from which The historic zone of the city becomes visible from the small access is gained to one of the most magnificent cloisters of Galicia square of San Pedro, with its cruceiro –wayside cross– brimming and to the Cathedral through the old door of Paradise, Romanesque with legends. Travelling down San Pedro Street, from the junction in style. This door, known today as A Acibechería, was replaced during with the Porta do Camiño –a meaningful name– the pilgrim can the second half of the 18th century while work was being done in the see to his right two of the city´s most emblematic buildings: the transition from the Baroque to the Neo-classical style. old convent of San Domingos de Bonaval–where the ‘Museo do During the Holy years of Santiago de Compostela pilgrims usually choose Pobo Galego’: –Museum of the Galician People is located–, to enter the basilica by way of the Holy Door, located in A Quintana which houses the only Gothic church in the city –‘The Pantheon square. This door is only opened during a Holy Year. of Illustrious ‘–, and the Centro Galego de Arte

San Domingos de Bonaval Quintana Square

Obradoiro Square The Cathedral Holy Door The City of Culture

Galician Centre of Contemporary Art Galician Centre á gina 27 by Santiago has enjoyed steady growth since Santiago has enjoyed steady growth In addition to the the mid 20th century. of the pilgrimages, gradual rebirth which keep its traditional spiritual significance alive, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist and cultural attraction. years, Santiago, the In recent administrative capital of the autonomous of Galicia, has seen the construction region of a number important cultural and and it has succeeded tourist infrastructures an international image as a in projecting oriented historic and cultural European the thousands of this are Proof centre. of visitors that flock to the city every day the year. throughout Heritage Site a World Declared UNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintain its thousand year old tradition of harmony, the through spirituality and progress historic tradition of its Pilgrims’ Way. The modern-day city 27 Way The French FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:12 P .

the document

hanging high up in the nave of compostela, á gina 26 earning and spirituality thanks to the founding of the University and the city’s Renaissance and of the University and city’s in most of its major heritage, mirrored Baroque historical monuments and buildings After visiting the Cathedral, place where pilgrims first arrive and meet, they can enjoy a tour of the city Santiago in all its historic taking in the diversity and dynamic splendour, today. appearance it offers The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostela a small settlement of monks who evolved from the custodians of tomb Apostle were the year 820. around at the time of its discovery, The city underwent spectacular development during the Middle Ages, thanks to popularity which made it, of pilgrimages in Europe, along with Jerusalem and Rome, one of the of the Christian world. centres great three Between the 15th and 19th centuries, city and decadence, alternated between prosperity in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of Pilgrimages history of Galicia, Spain and Europe. became less and important, but Santiago of culture, consolidated its position as a centre l

–a sculpture of Romanesque origin– and next, –a sculpture buried. are his remains to visit the crypt where A visit to the Portico of Glory is also part the ritual, as is attending pilgrims’ mass the swinging of at 12 noon, where botafumeiro, the transept surprises and delights visitor. After his visit to the Cathedral, if pilgrim justifying his credentials has all the required pilgrimage, on foot, horseback or by bicycle, he may go to the Pilgrims’ Office to ask for the his pilgrimage, which is granted by accrediting this moment on, From the Cathedral Chapter. the city of Santiago de Compostela belongs to the pilgrim to enjoy and treasure.

Raxoi Palace The Thurible The historic city

Museum

that takes him to the chapel of main In the Cathedral In the Cathedral The Cathedral of Santiago, whose construction began in the year 1075, is one of great both an artistic and monuments from European its Romanesque symbolic standpoint. From a number of styles, origins, it evolved through perhaps elements are although the Baroque the most outstanding, culminating in (1738-1750). façade of O Obradoiro A tour of the naves and its and varied heritage an interesting reveals both in content and significance. During his visit to the cathedral and the pilgrim usually carries out a surroundings, ritual in keeping with the tradition, to altar, ‘embrace’ the Apostle Saint James FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:12 P FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:12 Página 28 FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:12 Página 29

Map of Santiago’s historic centre

1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmírez Palace 2 Raxoi Palace 3 Reis Católicos Hotel 4 College of San Xerome 5 Church of San Fructuoso 6 Fonseca College 7 Cabildo House 8 Conga House 9 Parra House 10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares 11 Monastery of San Martiño Pinario 12 Church of San Martiño Pinario 13 The Dean’s House. Pilgrims’ Office 14 Vaamonde Palace 15 Bendaña Palace 16 Church of Santa María Salomé 17 Convent of San Francisco 18 Convent of Carme 19 Convent of Santa Clara 20 Church and former hospital of San Roque 21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum 22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People 23 Galician Centre of Modern Art 24 Faculty of History and Geography 25 University Church 26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio 27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers 28 School of As Orfas 29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros 30 Church of Santa María do Camiño 31 Church of San Bieito do Campo 32 Convent of Santo Agostiño 33 San Clemente College 34 General Chapel of Ánimas 35 Chapel of Santiago 36 Church of El Pilar 37 The Collegiate Church of Santa María a Real de Sa

r French Way

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Pilgrim’s hostels

Starting 01 January 2008, in order to gain access to the leave the shelter before 8 a.m. so that it can be shelters, pilgrims must buy a shelter voucher (3€) in cleaned. It will be open for accommodation from each one, which is only authorised for use in the 1 p.m. until 10 p.m. establishments that were procured and on the date If any pilgrim with reduced mobility arrives, one can that appears on the front of the voucher. It will not be request the collaboration of those persons, who are valid on any other date or in any other shelter. already accommodated after the shelter is filled to You may only stay one night in each shelter except capacity, in order to assist in his accommodation in the Monte do Gozo and San Lázaro, both in the establishment. Santiago de Compostela. The number of pilgrims However, pilgrims and other travellers have a range that will be accommodated each day will be limited to of alternative accommodation options. There are a the available beds in each establishment. number of religious and municipal centres also The order of priority is always the same: Pilgrims who serving the pilgrim, especially during busier travel by foot, on horseback, by bicycle and those with periods. In recent times a wide-range of modern an escort vehicle. hotels and rural tourism establishments has Once the voucher is acquired, it is very important to cropped up along the different routes which have keep it until you leave the shelter. If not, the shelter added to the diversity of the services and attractions can ask the pilgrim to vacate the premises. You must to be found along the Way.

From left to right, the hostels at O Cebreiro, Triacastela, Sarria and Arzúa

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1. O Cebreiro 11. Ligonde (2) 2. Hospital da 12. Palas de Rei Condesa 13. O Mato 3. Triacastela 14. Melide 4. Calvor 15. Ribadiso 5. Sarria 16. Arzúa 6. Barbadelo 7. Ferreiros 17. Santa Irene 8. Portomarín 18. O Pino 9. Gonzar 19. Monte do Gozo 10. Vendas de Narón 20. San Lázaro Pilgrims’ hostels Information on the Way

O Cebreiro Sarria 4 parking spaces for bicycles O Mato Santa Irene Newly constructed building* Rehabilitated town house* Distance from next hostel: 5 km Rehabilitated village school Rehabilitated country house O Cebreiro, s/n. Rúa Maior, 79. Sarria (Vendas de Narón, Portomarín) Casanova, s/n. Palas de Rei Santa Irene. Arca. O Pino 106 beds 41 beds 20 beds 36* beds 20 parking spaces for bicycles Distance from next hostel: 4.5 km Vendas de Narón Parking spaces for bicycles 5 parking spaces for bicycles Distance from next hostel: 6 km (Barbadelo, Sarria) Rehabilitated Unitarian School Distance from next hostel: 7 km Distance from next hostel: 4 km (Hospital da Condesa, Hospital da Cruz. Ventas de (Melide) (Arca, O Pino) Pedrafita do Cebreiro) Barbadelo Narón. Portomarín Rehabilitated Unitarian School 32 beds Melide O Pino Hospital da Condesa Barbadelo, s/n. Sarria 4 parking spaces for bicycles Newly constructed building* Newly constructed building* Rehabilitated Unitarian School 18 beds Distance from next hostel: 3 km R/ San Antón, s/n. Melide Pedrouzo. Arca. O Pino Hospital da Condesa. Hospital, 5 parking spaces for bicycles (Ligonde, Monterroso) 130 beds 126 beds s/n. Pedrafita do Cebreiro. Distance from next hostel: 8 km Parking spaces for bicycles Distance from next hostel: 15 km 18 beds (Ferreiros, Paradela) Ligonde (2) Distance from next hostel: 12 km (Monte do Gozo, Distance from next hostel: 16 km Ligonde, Monterroso (Ribadiso, Arzúa) Santiago de Compostela) (Triacastela) Ferreiros 2 restored buildings 20 beds each Rehabilitated Unitarian School Ribadiso Monte do Gozo 5 parking spaces for bicycles Triacastela Ferreiros, s/n. Paradela Rehabilitated former pilgrims’ Newly constructed complex* Distance from next hostel: 9 km Set of traditional buildings plus 22 beds hospital set in grounds with Monte do Gozo. (Palas de Rei) two newly constructed pavilions* Parking spaces for bicycles traditional granary, medieval bridge Santiago de Compostela Rúa do Peregrino, s/n. Triacastela Distance from next hostel: 10 km and ford across the River Iso* 400 beds (800, Holy Year) 84 beds (Portomarín) Palas de Rei Ribadiso de Abaixo. Arzúa 100 parking spaces for bicycles Parking spaces for bicycles Rehabilitated town house* 70 beds Distance from next hostel: 13 km Portomarín Avda. de Compostela, 19. Parking spaces for bicycles San Lázaro (pilgrim’s hostel) Purpose built construction* (Calvor, Sarria) Newly constructed building* Palas de Rei Distance from next hostel: 2 km (Arzúa) Calle San Lázaro, s/n Pza. dos Condes de Fenosa, s/n. 64 beds Santiago de Compostela Calvor Portomarín Parking spaces for bicycles Arzúa 80 beds Rehabilitated Unitarian School 110 beds Distance from next hostel: 6 km Rehabilitated traditional town house* Parking for bicycles Calvor, s/n. Sarria Distance from next hostel: 5 km (Mato, Palas de Rei) Cima do Lugar, 6. Arzúa 22 beds (Gonzar, Portomarín) 48 beds Pilgrims’ Pavilion * Accommodation with disabled 5 parking spaces for bicycles Lugar de Chacotes, s/n. Palas de Rei 10 parking spaces for bicycles and special needs facilities. Distance from next hostel: 5.5 km Gonzar 112 beds Distance from next hostel: 17 km (Sarria) Rehabilitated Unitarian School Parking spaces for bicycles (Santa Irene, O Pino) Gonzar, s/n. Portomarín Distance from next hostel: 6 km 30 beds (Mato, Palas de Rei)

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Services Town Councils Emergency Services

Pedrafita do Cebreiro Palas de Rei Medical emergencies Pza. de España, 2 Avda. Compostela, 28 061 Tel.: + 34 982-367103 Tel.: + 34 982-380001 Emergencies Fax: + 34 982-367150 Fax: + 34 982-374015 (general, free of charge and internacional) [email protected] [email protected] 112 www.palasderei.com Triacastela Pza. da Deputación, 1 Melide Tel.: + 34 982-548147 Pza. do Convento, 5 Xacobeo Information Fax: + 34 982-548147 Tel.: + 34 981-505003 O Cebreiro [email protected] Fax: + 34 982-506203 Tf.: + 34 982-367025 [email protected] Samos www.melide.org Information Office in Santiago Pza. España, 1 Tf.: + 34 + 34 902-332010 Tel.: + 34 982-546002 Arzúa Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floor Fax: + 34 982-546122 Rúa Santiago, 2 [email protected] Tel.: + 34 981-500000 Sarria Fax: + 34 981-500914 Web Site Rúa Maior, 14 [email protected] www.xacobeo.es Tel.: + 34 982-535000 www.concellodearzua.org Fax: + 34 982-530916 [email protected] O Pino Rural Tourism Central www.concellodesarria.net Pedrouzo, s/n. Arca Reservations Office Tel.: + 34 981-511002 Paradela Tf.: + 34 + 34 902-200432 Fax: + 34 981-511123 Rúa Cabaleiros de Santiago, nº 15 [email protected] [email protected] Tel.: + 34 982-541101 www.concellodeopino.com Fax: + 34 982-541232 [email protected] Santiago de Compostela Tourist Information Offices www.paradela.es Pza. do Obradoiro, s/n Lugo Pazo de Raxoi Portomarín Pza. Maior, 27-29 Tel.: + 34 981-542300 Pza. Conde Fenosa, 1 Tf.: + 34 982-231361 Fax: + 34 981-563864 Tel.: + 34 982-545070 [email protected] A Coruña Fax: + 34 982-545104 www.santiagodecompostela.org Dársena da Mariña, s/n [email protected] Tf.: + 34 981-221822

Monterroso Santiago de Compostela Pza. de Galicia, s/n Rúa do Vilar, 30-32, ground floor Tel.: + 34 982-377001 Tf.: + 34 981-584081 Fax: + 34 982-377617 [email protected] www.lugonet.com/monterroso/index1.htm Turgalicia Tf.: + 34 902-200432 Fax: + 34 981-542510 www.turgalicia.es

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The Pilgrims’ Ways to Santiago

The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the or the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago.

The heyday of the pilgrimages took place between the 11th, 12th and 13th centuries with the granting of specific spiritual indulgences. This trend, however, has endured to a greater or lesser extent over the course of the centuries. Since the mid 20th century the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has been experiencing an international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of peoples and cultures.

Traditionally the Pilgrims’ Ways are at their busiest during the Holy Years, held at intervals of 6, 5, 6, and 11 years, but any time is ideal for following the Way towards its ultimate goal: the city of Santiago de Compostela.

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The Pilgrims’ Way in Europe

Throughout its twelve hundred year history, the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago has given rise to an extraordinary spiritual, cultural and social vitality. Thanks to the existence of the Way, the first network of assistance in Europe came into being and monasteries, cathedrals and new urban centres were founded.

A new culture was born from the convergence of peoples of diverse backgrounds, based on the free exchange of ideas, artistic and social trends, in addition to a socio-economic driving force which boosted the development of a number of areas in Europe, especially during the Middle Ages. The mark left by the Way and by the pilgrims on the city of Santiago de Compostela can be clearly seen from an endless number of public and private testimonies, in the different art forms, and also, for example, in the publication of over one thousand books worldwide, which in recent decades have extolled the virtues of this Way, a work of art and the heritage of all Europeans.

The main routes of the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago were declared the First European Cultural Itinerary(1987) by the Council of Europe and a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in the stretches travelling across Spain and France (1993 and 1998, respectively). 2004In it also received the Prince of Award for Harmony from the Prince of Asturias Foundation. FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:13 Página 40 FRANCES EN INGLES 2009•.qxd:Maquetación 1 25/08/09 16:14 Página 41

Galicia, the land of Saint James French Way Southeast Way– According to ancient legend, the Iberian Peninsula Vía da Prata formed part of the lands where the Apostle Saint James Portuguese Way preached Christianity. After he was beheaded in 44 AD, Route of the Sea of Arousa tradition says that his disciples took the body of the and the River saint by boat to Galicia, one of the Spanish lands -Muxía Way he preached in. English Way Northern Way The difficult times during the early years of Christianity Original Way and the fact that most of the northern part of the peninsula was sparsely populated would have meant that the exact location of the burial site would have fallen into oblivion. However, around the year 820 remains were found which were attributed by the ecclesiastic and civil authorities to be those of Saint James the Greater. This event, which took place in remote Galician woodland, would give rise to the founding of the present day city of Santiago de Compostela.

Santiago became the attractive goal of a pilgrimage that would, over the centuries, lead pilgrims from all walks of life and via the most diverse itineraries, to the tomb of the only apostle of Jesus, along with Saint Peter in Rome, The Galician Ways who is buried on European soil. The diverse origins of these pilgrims gave rise to a total of six European ways leading to Galicia.

The busiest and most important itinerary from a socio-economic, artistic and cultural view, is the route known as the French Way, which enters Spain across the Pyrenees and Galicia via the mythical hills of O Cebreiro.

However, there are five other itineraries that have also earned a place for themselves in the history of the pilgrimages to Santiago.

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Cape Fisterra. The Fisterra-Muxía Way They are the Original and North Ways, There are two other routes whose of great importance in the early pilgrimage symbolism is believed to be closely days, with two major routes that enter linked to the Pilgrims’ Way to Santiago: Galicia via Asturias, from the Basque the Fisterra-Muxía Way, used by a Country and ; the English Way, number of medieval pilgrims, who after followed particularly by pilgrims, worshipping at the tomb of the apostle, who from northern Europe and the British were enticed to undertake the journey Isles arrived at ports such as A Coruña to Cape Finisterre, the westernmost and ; , which point on earth known at the time; was used by pilgrims travelling from and the route known as the Route of Portugal up through Galicia’s south- the Sea of Arousa and the River Ulla, western region; and the Southeast Way, recalling the itinerary, which according used by pilgrims who, on their way to tradition, was taken by the boat to Santiago from the south and centre bearing the mortal remains of the of the Peninsula, followed the popular Apostle to Galicia (1st century). Vía de la Plata, between Mérida and Astorga, continuing on into the territory of to Santiago de Compostela.

O Cebreiro. The French Way Oseira. The South East Way –The Silver Way “Compostela” and credential A Coruña. The English Way

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