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1973 Movable feasts: H&S international style Nancy Q. Keefe

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Recommended Citation H&S Reports, Vol. 10, (1973 no. 1), p. 12-17

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Deloitte Collection at eGrove. It has been accepted for inclusion in Haskins and Sells Publications by an authorized administrator of eGrove. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Movable Feasts: H&S International Style By Nancy Q. Keefe French cooking with Chef Rene Colau at his restaurant, Le Bayeux, in Brussels. If your babies' first solid foods had been coq au vin, canard a I'orange and boeuf Barbara Kuntz, now back in Omaha, bourguignon, what an imaginative head where her husband. Bill, is a principal, start in life their appetites would have had. characterizes the initial doubters: "The entree 'monkey gland ' intrigued Pat and Ed Bodoh's boys were raised on me from my first menu reading in French cooking blended smooth when Johannesburg, South Africa," she says. the Bodohs were at DH&S in Brussels. "It was months before 1 braved ordering it "Prepared baby foods were quite costly," even after knowing the cut of meat." But Pat says. And probably not half so now she knows enough about monkey interesting as pureed gourmet fare, either. gland steak to have tried a number of The Bodohs, now back in Minnesota, variations and even to have a favorite where Ed is a principal in the Minneapolis recipe. office, are among a growing number of H&S families who have delighted in the Billie Boodro, whose husband, Bill, is taste of life and food abroad, and brought a partner in Omaha, is among the home an international flavor using eclectic. After 10 years in Tokyo, she ingredients available in the U.S. looks upon Japanese food less than reverently but she does like some of the It is the role of wives in every society to famous entrees. She adds that one of prepare food. Some are happily their daughters, who was three when the adventurous from the start of their family went to Japan, "likes all the food." sojourn abroad. Others take a little longer to dip into unfamiliar dishes. A However adventurous or timid their few find that, while the whole range of a individual tastes, however ambitious or country's food does not appeal to them, indifferent about cooking their individual individual items are delicious and well preferences, wives find that whatever worth bringing back, they learned about food abroad enriches mealtimes at home. It is, in fact, one of Dorothy Steele, who accompanies her the big pluses about international service. husband. Bob, on his frequent trips as partner in charge of the international Darlene Deppman, whose husband, Ed, department, is fortunately one of the is a partner in the Miami office, says, adventurous. She says, "I can't remember "Since living in Europe, we have learned not being interested in cooking, from to enjoy spending much more time at the age of four when I used to watch and the dining table than we Americans help my grandmother make apple normally do. Where we socialize to a dumplings. So traveling abroad and great extent at cocktails, the Europeans trying various types of dishes seemed have stressed table conversation — with very natural to me. I am always ready to wine, of course." try anything new and different." This way of giving a party has a graceful Other wives sallied forth to cooking amiability about it and serves to remind classes, got rid of some old notions us that amid rancor and divisiveness in so about food and added new meals to much of the world, only man among all their menus. Marilyn Skolnik, whose the animals invites his neighbors into his husband, Geoffrey, is now a principal in cave, his home to share his food. Besides New York, took lessons in Rome (from a that, dinner parties ease a hostess's "marvelous teacher who spoke no worry about how to entertain her guests. English") because, she says, "cooking In an evening with a long, leisurely meal and eating are a big part of living in Italy" and appropriate wine, guests amuse and Food there, she adds, is not as spicy as divert one another with good Italian food in the U.S. but is made conversation. interesting by the prudent use of fresh herbs. The fruits of her studies include Moreover, occasional family dinners of 100 recipes, from easy to complicated, this sort provide a congenial and civilized for antipasto, pasta, meat and vegetables, way for us to see members of the which she will send to anyone who asks household in the midst of our busy and her for them. separate lives. To make any of these meals more interesting, some H&S wives Pat Bodoh, for whom cooking is a "great have offered a feast of international hobby," took an advanced course in recipes. H&S Another inventive use for pumpkin comes from Sue Goff, whose husband, International Dick, is a partner in Saginaw, Mich. She learned about shrimp in pumpkin from a Style friend in Sao Paulo.

Sue Goff's Shrimp in Pumpkin 2 pounds large Shrimp, cleaned 1 cup Coconut Milk, or Canned Milk 8-ounce package Cream Cheese 1 large Onion 6 large Tomatoes The fragrant simmering soup kettle is 1 Green Pepper Salt and Pepper barely a memory to adults. To most 1 medium size Pumpkin children, soup comes only in cans or packages. But in the Deppman Saute chopped onion and green pepper in a household, soup comes fresh, hot or little salad oil with salt and pepper. Cut cold, for company dinners and family tomatoes in small pieces and add to onion suppers. Their favorites, brought home and pepper mixture. Cook until tomatoes are from Paris and Brussels, are French stewed. Add shrimp, cook five minutes Add onion, gazpacho (cold Spanish vegetable coconut (or canned) milk. soup), and leek and potato (vichyssoise Cut the top off the pumpkin (as in making a if it's cold). jack-o-lantern) and clean. Wet the inside of the pumpkin with milk; season with salt; score Darlene Deppman's inside with fork to allow milk to penetrate. Soupe a l'Oignon au Fro mage Bake pumpkin in a slow (300°) oven 15 to 6 large Onions 30 minutes until soft inside. Remove from ½- cup Butter oven, coat inside with cream cheese and fill 1½ quarts Consomme, or Broth made with hot shrimp sauce. Cover and bake 15 to from Bouillon Cubes 20 minutes Serve over rice. (In last baking, Toasted Bread Rounds insert toothpicks in pumpkin top so it will not grated Gruyere Cheese (Swiss) fall in.}

Peel and thinly slice onions into rings. Saute in butter until golden brown, being Shrimp and many other kinds of fish careful not to bum. Add consomme and figure prominently in the cuisine of South simmer about an hour. Ladle soup into America because all but two countries ovenproof bowls, add toast and cheese, and have long coastlines and superb place under broiler until bubbly. (As a practical fisheries. Dorothy Steele's suggestion matter, we and lots of French people just serve the soup and let each person spoon in reflects as well the international the cheese according to his taste.) character of the continent.

Dorothy Steele's Shrimp el Greco Soup goes well in Minnesota, too. When 3 cloves Garlic, crushed the Bodohs carve their Halloween ½ cup Oil jack-o-lanterns, Pat keeps one pumpkin 1 teaspoon Salt for soup using a Belgian recipe from her 1 teaspoon coarsely ground Pepper 3 tablespoons Chili Sauce cooking lessons. 1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce 3 tablespoons Vinegar Pat Bodohs Pumpkin Soup ¼ cup Parsley 8 heaping cups cubed fresh Pumpkin dash Hot Pepper Sauce 82/3 cup s enriched Chicken Stock juice of 1 Lemon 7 tablespoons Butter 5 jumbo or 8 large, shelled, deveined, uncooked Shrimp per person ½ cup Cold Water I cup grated Cheddar Cheese Stew the cubed pumpkin in the butter in a covered soup kettle for a few minutes. Add Mix all ingredients except shrimp and cheese the cold water and cook slowly until the in blender. Place shrimp in mixture and pumpkin is mushy {about 45 minutes). Add marinate overnight Arrange shrimp on stock, boil and reduce heat to simmer and skewers, brush with sauce and cover with foil cook for 15 minutes. Puree in a blender and until ready to cook. Broil five minutes on strain. Just before serving, bring to a boil again each side. When browned, remove and top and correct the seasonings. Remove from with grated cheese. Return to oven until heat, stir in an additional 8 tablespoons of cheese melts. Watch shrimp carefully or they butter and serve with croutons and chopped will overcook. Serve on skewers or in serving parsley. dish. Sauce is sufficient for six persons.

14 Among eaters, the truly international Melt butter in skillet. Saute chicken breasts until symbol should probably be the chicken. golden brown (about 10 minutes). Add sage. Every country has recipes that begin Break up bouillon cube and sprinkle over "take one chicken." Judicious seasoning, chicken. Add a pinch of salt. Remove from saucing or then transforms a heat and top each breast with a slice of bland, economical bird to the lofty cheese. Pour cream on top. Place in hot oven until cheese melts. heights of delegability. As they say in South America: "La gallina hace la Less common than chicken but almost (Chicken makes the meal.) cocina." as weli-traveled is some form of Some samples include one of Peru's gnocchi, a dumpling sort of dish made with farina contributions to the art of good eating. in Italy, puff paste in France and The Snee family brought the recipe back potatoes in the Americas. Pat Harris, to Michigan, where Richard is a principal whose husband, Wilbur, is now partner in the Detroit office. It is the delight of in charge in Milwaukee, says, "We never the family their company and the had until we lived in Argentina," children's Spanish club. When Charlotte gnocchi where they are called Snee prepares this dish now, she uses noquis. Tabasco and fresh coriander in place of Pat Harris's Noquis de Papas ajf, the very hot pepper of Peru. She grew the coriander from seeds purchased in (Gnocchi with Potatoes) Mexico, "Powdered coriander is available, 2 medium Potatoes but the fresh is far superior," she says. 1 Egg ¼ cup Milk Salt Paprika Charlotte Snee's Aji de Gallina 4 teaspoons Oil or melted Butter

1 Chicken Boil the potatoes and mash. Mix in beaten 1 quart Water egg, milk, salt, paprika and oil. A little flour 1 Leek may be added to form the mixture into a ball. 1 Onion Divide dough into four parts. Shape each into 1 Carrot a long roll and cut into pieces about an inch 1 Tomato long. Press with a dinner fork to give desired \ cup Salad Oil design. Drop noquis into simmering, salted 1 Onion, finely chopped water and cook uncovered for 10 minutes. 1 clove Garlic, mashed Drain and serve with any tomato sauce or i teaspoon Cumin Seed meat with . 2 cups soft Bread Crumbs I cup Evaporated Milk 3 tablespoons Hot Pepper, mashed Besides modifying food common to 1 cup grated Cheese (like Parmesan) many lands, cooks everywhere make Boil chicken, leek, onion, carrot and tomato imaginative use of their unique natural in the water. Soak bread crumbs in the milk. resources. The black bean of Brazil forms Remove chicken meat from bones find shred. the basis of the national dish feijoada. Save stock. Brown chopped onion, garlic and Sue Goff reports that most restaurants cumin in half the oil. Add bread crumbs and in Brazil serve it every Wednesday and simmer for 15 minutes. Put mixture in Saturday noon. "It is such a heavy meal blender for creamier sauce, or mash with that Brazilians would not dream of fork. Saute hot peppers in remainder of oil, having it for the evening meal," She then add to first mixture together with cheese suggests serving it on a cold day before and chicken. Simmer 15 minutes, salt to taste a football game or after skiing and adds, and add chicken stock. Serve with rice, "Like so many bean dishes, this is better the second day." Italy may flavor chicken with a native cheese, as in: Sue Goff's Feijoada for 12 1 small Beef Tongue Marilyn Skolnik's 2 pounds Spareribs, cut into 12 pieces Petti di Polio alia Crema 2 pounds link Sausages 1 pound boneless lean Beef Chuck (Chicken Br ens Is in Cream) 1 pound Portuguese or Polish Sausage, 6 boneless Chicken Breasts cut in half-inch slices 6 slices Mozzarella Cheese 1 pound Canadian Bacon or lean Ham 1 Chicken Bouillon Cube 5 teaspoon Pepper Salt Pepper 2 large Onions i pound Butter 1 or 2 cloves Garlic, minced 1 cup Light Cream 2 whole Bay Leaves 4 Sage Leaves (fresh, if possible) 4 ; cups Kidney Beans, or 4 cups Black Beans (available in Mexican specialty stores)

15 Prepare the vegetables ahead of lime and arrange them in colorful dishes. Cut white International onions into eighths; slice green onions lengthwise then crosswise into 1 1/2-inch strips; Style seed green peppers and cut diagonally; slice celery diagonally in 1/2-inch strips; slice mushrooms; wash spinach, remove stems and cut large leaves in half. Scrub tongue under cold running water. In a 10-quart pot, combine tongue, 2-1/2 quarts Trim fat from meat, saving large pieces to water, pepper, onions, garlic and bay leaves. render for drippings. Using a sharp knife, cut Cover and bring to boil; reduce heat and meat across grain into slices 1/8 inch thick. simmer 2 hours, or until tongue is fork tender. Remove tongue and save broth. When In a pitcher mix soy sauce, bouillon cube, tongue coots, peel off skin and cut away fatty which has been dissolved in the water, MSG, portions. Set aside. sugar and salt.

Arrange spareribs on a large shallow baking To start the first batch, render fat and remove pan and bake in 450" oven for 25 minutes. cracklings. Add half the meat, cook and stir Distribute link sausages in pan and continue until brown. Add half the white onions, green baking 15 to 20 minutes, until well-browned. pepper and celery and stir lightly. Add half Remove from oven and drain. the soy mixture and cook rapidly for 5 minutes, stirring often. Stir in half the green Wash and pick over beans, add to tongue onions and mushrooms, and cook for 1 broth, bring to boil and boil 2 minutes. Add minute. Mix in half the spinach and cook 1 beef, Portuguese sausage and Canadian minute. Serve at once with rice. bacon. Cover and simmer 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until beans and beef are almost Because sukiyaki cooks quickly, wait until tender. (If you use black beans, cook bean your guests are halfway through (he first batch mixture half hour before adding meats.) before starting the second. Recipe serves four Every 15 or 20 minutes, stir gently and add with seconds. boiling water if needed to keep beans covered.

Put into the pot the cooked tongue, spareribs Teriyaki on a hibachi or American and link sausages. Continue simmering about charcoal grill will give your home 15 minutes or until beans and beef are an Oriental flavor. tender Salt to taste.

To serve, remove link sausages and spareribs Billie Boodro's Teriyaki to a heated platter Lift tongue, beef and 2 pounds bacon from pot; slice and arrange on 1 cup undiluted Beef Consomme, platter. (Meat may be covered with foil and or ½ cup each of consomme kept warm for one hour in 200° oven.) Serve and RedOR Whit e Wine beans in a large bowl or soup tureen. 1/3 cup Soy Sauce 1½ teaspoons Seasoned Salt This meal is always sewed with rice, greens ¼ cup chopped Green Onions with tops and sliced oranges. 1 clove Garlic, mashed 3 tablespoons Lime Juice 2 tablespoons Brown Sugar or Honey The ceremonial dinner of Japan is easily translatable to an American table by Cut the meat into inch-wide diagonal strips. Make a marinade by combining consomme, following Billie Boodro's suggestion to soy sauce, salt, green onions, garlic, lime juice cook it right at the table using an and brown sugar or honey. Marinate meat electric pan. Despite its exotic overnight. Drain meat and save marinade. name, sukiyaki is beef, and so is the Grill meat quickly over coals (about 2 minutes teriyaki. on each side) while brushing with marinade. Turn meat only once. Serves six. Billie Boodro's Sukiyaki 1 ± pounds , 1 to 2 inches thick 4 small White Boiling Onions 2 bunches Green Onions 4 Green Peppers several stalks Celery ! pound fresh Mushrooms or 1 6-on rice can Sliced Mushrooms 1 pound Spinach !• cup Soy Sauce 1 Bouillon Cube i cup Water 5 teaspoon MSG 2 tablespoons Sugar Salt to taste Sausage rolls, which can be made with skinless sausages wrapped in and baked, are eaten with tomato sauce (ketchup) in Australia. They are more limited in scope than the empanodas, or rolled , that abound in South America. These come Beef is even the secret ingredient in the in varying sizes with any kind of filling— lamentably named "monkey gland steak" beef, pork, shrimp, cheese. Pat Harris from South Africa. offers a recipe for beef empanodas, which can be made small for hors d'oeuvres. Barbara Kuntz's Monkey Gland Steak Pat Harris's Empanadas 1 pound boneless 1 pound Hamburg 3 Onions, sliced 1 medium Onion 3 tablespoons Tomato Sauce 1 medium boiled Potato, chopped 3 tablespoons Chutney 2 hard boiled Eggs, chopped 3 tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce 1 teaspoon Paprika 3 tablespoons Vinegar I teaspoon ground Cumin Garlic Salt to taste Salt Pepper, Chili Pepper to taste dough Cut meat into serving pieces. Marinate for Green Olives 12 hours in sauce made by combining remainder of ingredients. Drain and brown Saute hamburg and onion. Mix in spices. meat. Combine all ingredients and heat for When hamburg is cooked, add other 20 to 25 minutes in oven at 375° Serve with ingredients, except dough Make balls of pie rice and peas. dough and roll thin, in center of each round, spoon a portion of the meat mixture plus one green olive. Fold over and press firmly. Bake in hot oven [400°) until crust browns, or fry Travelers and sojourners abroad find in deep fat and drain on paper. that the U.S. has exported hot dogs and nearly everywhere. They also find delicious indigenous snacks, If we look upon food merely as necessary like the meat pies and sausage rolls of for survival, we may see only that it can Australia, and of South empanadas be both expensive and dull. Buying food America. takes a fifth of the American family income, according to a government Mary Louise Gillies, whose husband, study Gathering, storing, preparing and Robin, is a principal in San Francisco, eating food can take as much as a fifth explains that the meat pies they ate in of the American housewife's time. Melbourne are like our own pot pies without the vegetables. Spectators at But what a noble task for her! The football matches (in Australia that means preparation of food is truly an art, a soccer or Gaelic football) buy individual science and a craft. With the amount of pies at snack stands. They are easily time and money that must be invested duplicated at home for a different kind of in it food ought to do more than sustain lunch or party snack. life. It should enhance life. And it seems to have done just that for these H&S Mary Louise Gillies's families home from abroad. Steak and Kidney Pie 1 pound Boneless Beef 2 Veal Kidneys ¼ cup diced Mushrooms Nancy Q. Keefe, freelance writer and ¼ cup Chopped Onions editor, is also a busy housewife who has Pastry for single crust Pie fed a family of five for years. She has Cut beef into one-inch cubes and dice written regularly for H&S Reports kidneys. Pressure cook for 15 minutes or since 1968. until tender. Mix in mushrooms and onions. Put mixture into a pie tin and top with crust. Bate at 400° until crust browns (15 to 20 minutes). Serve topped with tomato sauce (ketchup with Worcestershire sauce added). Unbaked pie may be frozen for later baking.

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