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egan Sportswear s 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 WWD.COM Teens at Malls Seek Value, Diversions Jane Traub, senior vice president of research for WwDwednesdSportswearay By Cecily Hall Scarborough. “And looking good is important to FASHION Teen mall denizens are out in force, them — being attractive is important to them. 6 Paris couture week continued with collections but they want more bang for their bucks. While buying an accessory or an item of clothing from Chanel, Armani Privé, Christian Lacroix An updated survey of 1,687 teenage shoppers may be frivolous to an adult right now, to a teen, and Givenchy. across the U.S. in April showed 54 percent were it’s still socially important to have these items.” spending more or about the same as they did in The report, “Teen Mall Shopping Attitudes GENERAL the previous six months, but they were value- and Usage Study and Economy Update Study,” The gift card, which was a license to indulge conscious and concerned about the economy. also asked about shopping preferences for 40 1 before the recession, has become an indicator of Fifty-two percent said they were shopping at national retail store brands. The half-dozen less expensive stores, 43 percent reduced spend- most often shopped retailers were Old Navy, J.C. economic hard times. ing and 48 percent were using more coupons at Penney, American Eagle Outfitters, Aéropostale, 2 Italian luxury suit maker Brioni reported a 3 percent the mall. Claire’s and Macy’s. drop in underlying profits in 2008 and appointed Despite rising vacancy rates and Andrea Perrone sole chief executive officer. lower overall sales because of the re- There was no doubting the energy pulsing cession, the mall remains a favored s 10 While buying an accessory or an through the German capital last week during destination for youths ages 12 to 17, ac- Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. cording to the study released by New “ York-based Scarborough Research and item of clothing may be frivolous Honduran executives came to the nation’s capital Arbitron, a media and marketing re- 14 Tuesday to tell their U.S. customers it’s business search firm. All respondents had visited to an adult right now, to a teen, it’s as usual in the apparel sector. a mall within the previous 30 days. Global M&A activity fell 47.4 percent in the first The first part of the survey, based still socially important. ­ 14 half from the year-ago period and the value of on questioning in the fourth quarter of — Jane Traub, Scarborough” Research activity dropped 43.6 percent to $705.7 billion. last year, found that 71 percent of teen respondents said they go to the mall to 14 Jones Apparel Group rode an upgrade from shop, 57 percent to eat, 49 percent to socialize “This is going to be the first group of teens A look from Goldman Sachs to a 1.6 percent stock gain, as and 40 percent seek entertainment, primarily and pre-teens in three generations who are being Sam Frenzel. retail shares and major indices endured a sell-off. through movies and video games. brought up on a budget,” said Marshal Cohen, Fifty-six percent of the teens in the first-of-its- chief industry analyst for The NPD Group. Classified Advertisements...... 15 kind study said they spent $50 or more on their The concern about budgets and the desire for To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is most recent mall visit, with 29 percent spending value is affecting retailers such as Abercrombie [email protected], using the individual’s name. $100 or more. & Fitch, which has not reduced prices this year. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 “For teens, it’s socially important for them to The New Albany, Ohio-based chain has been con- FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 198, NO. 5. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with be at the mall — to them, it’s an actual activity,” said fronted by fashion missteps and weakened by its one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June higher prices in a highly promotional market. and August, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division For more on teens’ favorite retailers, But some teen stores, including Aéropostale, of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. see WWD.com have been finding their stride during the Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage downturn. The New York-based specialty store paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian chain reported an 18.9 percent climb in sales addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES to $1.89 billion last year, along with a 16 per- TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS cent increase in net income to $149.4 million, CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed or $2.21 per diluted share — as well as a same- on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all store sales increase of 19 percent in May, and editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. 20 percent in April. Julian Geiger, chairman For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. and chief executive officer, credited the com- Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services pany’s enhancement of its offerings. that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please The Scarborough-Arbitron study also exam- advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, ined the effectiveness of mall marketing on teen UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR shoppers. Among the findings: 95 percent said ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER they noticed any form of mall advertising, 91 MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE percent noticed poster display ads, 68 percent ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. spent more than two hours at the mall on a typi- cal visit and 75 percent visited the Web sites of mall stores. “In-mall events, such as live demonstra- DAILY tions, fashion shows and even concerts, could I couldn’t imagine not provide an opportunity for marketers to bring QUote “ their brand to life by structuring these activi- being here to support him ties around the teens’ mall experience,” said Traub. “Marketers could take advantage of cre- in a difficult moment. ating a positive spending environment. A good

bis ” campaign can make a powerful statement in — Yves Carcelle, chairman and chief executive any of these formats if the creative execution officer of Louis Vuitton, at Christian Lacroix’s ey/Cor

sl is successful.” couture show, page 3.

We In what might be the most hopeful con- a n clusion of the report, Traub said 61 percent CORRECTIONS lla of the respondents said they will increase y A • Michelle Obama wore a Michael Kors coral double-face collarless b spending when the economy improves. Almost

Even in tough economic times, o

t coat over her Narciso Rodriguez peach dress upon her arrival in teens are still spending at the mall. o half think opening their wallets at the mall is ph helping the economy. Moscow Monday. The Kors coat was omitted from a fashion scoop on page 9, Tuesday. • A photo of a model backstage at the Alexis Mabille show was Brioni Net Falls, Names Sole CEO incorrectly identified as the designer in a caption on page 2, Tuesday. By Emilie Marsh TODAY ON Italian luxury suit maker Brioni reported a 3 percent drop in underlying profits in 2008 and appointed Andrea Perrone sole chief executive officer. For the year ended Dec. 31, earnings before interest, taxes depreciation and amortization fell to .com 32 million euros, or $47.1 million, a company spokeswoman said. She added sales were “in line with WWD last year” — around 206.5 million euros, or $303.8 million. Full results are slated for release today. • Coverage of couture week in Paris, Dollar figures were converted at average exchange rates for the periods to which they refer. including reviews, full runs of show, Perrone, the grandson of co-founder Gaetano Savini, formerly shared the role of ceo with Antonella De Simone, who is the granddaughter of co-founder Nazareno Fonticoli, and Antonio backstage images, front-row Bianchini. The spokeswoman was unable to clarify the new roles of De Simone and Bianchini. coverage and Fashion Scoops Brioni tapped BNP Paribas in November to help sell 20 to 25 percent of the company and is • More images from accessories believed to have attracted wide interest from cash-rich operators because of its strong brand and

i collections including Louis Vuitton, profitable business. Fabergé, Lorenz Bäumer and Pomelatto The spokeswoman said Tuesday the company had been contacted by “private equity and indus- nnon gia

try,” but declined to give details. According to market speculation, these may include Mediobanca, i • Additional looks and Fashion nn

PPR and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. a Scoops from Berlin Fashion Week

Sources said Brioni’s controlling shareholders, who are descendants of the company’s founders, are ov gi A look from the Giorgio • WWD Back in Time: The 1972 y

seeking a 100 million euro, or $140 million at current exchange, investment to ease debts and develop b

o Armani Privé couture the business — including buying an accessories plant — with an aim of listing on the Bourse in four or t Rolling Stones L.A. concert o collection. h five years. Brioni bought out former ceo Umberto Angeloni for an estimated 80 million euros in 2006. P • More data on teen spending at malls WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 3 WWD.COM Industry Responds to Jackson Demand The Jackson family at the memorial tribute. By WWD Staff RETAILERS AND APPAREL VENDORS ARE SCRAMBLING TO GET MICHAEL Jackson merchandise into stores to capitalize on fans’ hunger for a piece of the iconic pop star who was honored Tuesday at a two-hour memorial service in Los Angeles. Several stores said they have been inundated by requests for Jackson items. T-shirts were the most coveted apparel picks, although consumers gravitated toward shoes, jackets and gloves emblematic of Jackson’s style, as well. Betsy McLaughlin, chief executive offi cer of Hot Topic Inc., said two licensed men’s T-shirts and one women’s T are scheduled to be de- livered to the City of Industry, Calif.-based teen retailer within the next week. “Most of what is available now at retail is unlicensed, bootleg product, which we will not carry as it hurts the artist,” For more she said. photos, see Stephen Donnelly, vice president and general merchandising man- WWD.com. ager of women’s apparel at Kmart, said after Jackson’s death on June 25: “We got a small shipment of Ts to a limited number of stores within one week. We are continuing to react to customer demand with more MAZUR/MJ MEMORIAL/WIREIMAGE

T-shirt deliveries this week, and will be looking at additional merchan- KEVIN dise in-store and online as needed.” The staying power of the demand for Jackson-themed apparel was censing matters could present challenges. uncertain, but the spike in interest for his music is likely to remain Michael Stone, president and ceo of Beanstalk Group, which manages front and center for a prolonged period. licenses for the Andy Warhol Foundation, Samsonite and L.L. Bean, said Kitson in Los Angeles has carried shirts with a likeness of Jackson not all retailers want to be associated with Jackson. for months, and owner Fraser Ross said the apparel is “just fl ying off the “If they were to focus on building and enhancing his musical legacy, shelves in men’s and women’s.…There’s a really fi ne line between capi- over time people will forget about [the other stuff],” he said. “In the near talizing on someone’s death and giving fans what they want as a tribute.” A Kitson T-shirt with term, there will be retailers that will steer clear of Michael Jackson.” Contemporary designer Allen Schwartz of A.B.S. was already ship- Jackson’s likeness. “It’s going to be a long time before [the estate] fi gures out who controls ping Jackson-inspired band jackets when the entertainer died. The the rights and what they want to do with them,” Stone said. “In the mean- A.B.S. jacket, in black or red gabardine with gold trim and epaulets, re- time, there [are] counterfeiters and infringers all over the place.” tails for $285 and Schwartz said he plans to double or triple the projections. “I saw But Tuesday was about mourning Jackson, who was celebrated during an emo- the trend developing two months ago, and now I plan to build on it,” Schwartz said. tional service at the Staples Center in downtown Los Angeles. Although police said “His passing will have a huge impact on fashion.” hundreds of thousands of fans could descend on the district, people heeded the warn- Target experienced a “signifi cant” increase in sales of the three Michael Jackson ings and the throngs did not show up. However, anticipating larger numbers, many albums it carries, said Joshua Thomas, a spokesman. fashion industry employees stayed away from their downtown offi ces. “We instructed stores to bring them to the front of the aisle where you only fi nd Inside the Staples Center, celebrities such as Magic Johnson, Kobe Bryant, Brooke new releases,” he said. “In mid-July we will possibly bring in other products across Shields, Jennifer Hudson, Usher, John Mayer, Lionel Richie and Stevie Wonder sang the store. What we’re seeing, as retailers across the industry, is an appreciation of his and spoke about the star. Jackson’s brothers wore Versace black suits, white shirts musical talent from a wide variety of audiences.” and gold ties. Sister La Toya Jackson wore a black pantsuit and Janet Jackson was in Jackson’s untimely death, his unusual lifestyle, legal battles and complicated li- a black dress with white piping from the Italian house.

FASHION SCOOPS Isabel couldn’t imagine not being here to support Lucas him in a diffi cult moment.” STARRY NIGHT: Thandie Newton will soon be top of her cultural agenda. French actor Edouard Baer also came to trading stilettos for espadrilles when she hits her Olivier Theyskens, Loulou de la Falaise, support the designer. Baer said he’s writing summer vacation destination — Ibiza. “I can’t Joana Preiss, Elodie Bouchez and a chatty pack a play for the Théâtre Marigny this fall take these heels!” she cried at the dinner Calvin of young European socials mingled with Calvin titled “Miam Miam,” which takes place at a Klein hosted Monday night at Apicius, where Klein creative directors Francisco Costa and restaurant and is about “food and people.” Baer guests lingered on the terrace to take in stunning Italo Zucchelli before eventually sitting down will direct and star in the play, but he’s not yet views of its groomed gardens at sunset. to sup on caviar and potatoes, sea bass and a sure about costumes. “I would love Christian to Newton appears next in Roland Emmerich’s dessert of wild strawberries and meringue. do them. I’m always asking him,” he said. “2012,” a disaster movie to end all disaster Meanwhile, up-and-coming French actress Rather than ducking backstage after his show, movies in which she plays the president’s Vahina Giocante was asked to pose for a photo Lacroix lingered at the end of the runway, where daughter. And a stylish one at that. “I asked next to American actor Lee Pace, whom she he was mobbed by well-wishers, many red-eyed if I could take my stylist with me,” she had never met. Lo and behold, the two start and wistful and wearing the “Christian Lacroix related. “A suit’s not just a suit.” So what will fi lming “Thirty Beats” in about two weeks. The Forever” badges distributed by Countess Pia de fashion look like in the not-so-distant future? movie is set in New York and Giocante plays Brantes. The designer, in high spirits, beamed as “Timeless!” she laughed. “We went Alexander a French actress trying to catch a break. “I’ve Anna the towering Jaime de Marichalar, Duke of Lugo, McQueen, Lanvin and Narciso Rodriguez.” got almost all my scenes with him — and we Mouglalis came to offer his congratulations. Lacroix then Claire Danes suited up as a Girl Friday have a love scene,” Giocante gulped. gave not one, but two big bear hugs to embroiderer opposite Zac Efron for her next movie, “Me and Elodie extraordinaire François Lesage. Suzanne Saperstein Orson Welles,” due out this fall. As it’s set in SCENTS AND SENSIBILITY: In Chanel’s front row Bouchez arrived with her daughter Stephanie in tow, and a the Thirties, there’s “a lot of belts and pencil Tuesday, actress Zhou Xun, a household name point-and-shoot. “We’ve got to get a photo with skirts and strong shoulders,” she enthused. In in China, disclosed she’s the latest celebrity him: he’s our favorite,” she cooed. Paris until Thursday, Danes said the Kandinsky hoping to build a brand. Xun plans to launch her Among the guests fi ling out was model exhibition at the Pompidou Center was at the own label, starting with a fragrance plus candles Vlada Roslyakova, who wore a baroque bridal and accessories, in Beijing later this year. “I’m gown trembling with fl owers for the show’s very sensitive to scent,” she said. “While other fi nale, a couture tradition. “It was a nice people remember people’s faces, one of the moment,” she smiled, rushing off in her black ways I remember people is by their smell.” street clothes and tapping into her BlackBerry. Architect Peter Marino said he’s also busy Later, Lacroix himself headed to Givenchy’s STEPHANE FEUGERE in Beijing working on projects for brands Gianna Jun show, where he cheerily posed for photographs, including Chanel, Dior and Louis Vuitton. and Zhou Xun including with LVMH’s Delphine Arnault. “I feel

“That’s where it’s at,” he declared of China. PHOTOS BY relieved,” Lacroix said. “This is not the end. He’s also designing a 10,000-square-foot This is the beginning, that’s how I see it. It’s casino in Las Vegas. “It’s a hoot,” he said. of the Fallen,” said she’s rapidly adjusting a new page.” Later, he was off to meet his Readying to shoot a campaign for a new, to the limelight. “It has been a whirlwind. workers for a much-needed drink. Fellow front- undisclosed Chanel scent, photographer I’ve had a very tight schedule,” she related. row guests included young European jet-setters Jean-Paul Goude said he’s working on his Accompanied by her law graduate sister Nina, Eugenie Niarchos, Olympia Scarry and Anna de retrospective at Les Arts Décoratifs in Paris, who was also decked out in Chanel, Lucas said Pahlen. Artist Yi Zhou said she’s completed a scheduled for 2011. “It’s almost as big as this she’s looking forward to wearing more couture surreal video piece starring Pharrell Williams, Claire Lee Pace and place, it’s a big deal,” he declared. for a spread in Italian Vogue. which includes a journey inside his ear. “He got Danes Vahina Giocant, Chanel face Anna Mouglalis, meanwhile, Couture client Danielle Steel, who’s just the concept right away,” she said. in Calvin both in Thandie said she’s totally immersed in her directorial completed her 108th book, lamented the Photographer Astrid Muñoz, meanwhile, Klein. Calvin Klein. Newton debut, dubbed “Le Gars” (“The Fellow” in questionable fate of the fi nancially pressed said she turned the tables on Mario Testino, English) starring hubby Samuel Benchetrit. “It Lacroix. “I don’t know if they can salvage it, shooting him for Spain’s GQ. “He’s the one who is very moving working with someone you know they need a miracle,” she said. “It’s a piece of launched my career,” she related. Joana Preiss, so well and fi nding so much inspiration in him. major history, he’s so unique.” fresh from fi lming “We Are the Industry” by He plays a vampire so evidently it’s fi ctional, budding English director Matt Crockford, said which is a good thing,” she laughed. COSTUME PARTY: Among the surprising guests she’s planning her own foray into directing. Fresh from playing a vampire herself in at Christian Lacroix’s on-a-shoestring couture And Pucci’s designer Peter Dundas, “Blood: The Last Vampire,” Korean actress show Tuesday was Louis Vuitton honcho Yves meanwhile, said he’s looking forward to a Gianna Jun said she continues her collaboration Carcelle, even though LVMH Moët Hennessy summer of extreme sport: kite surfi ng in Greece.

STEPHANE FEUGERE with denim label True Religion in Korea. Louis Vuitton off-loaded his fashion to “I actually got beaten up a lot last summer.

Olivier Theyskens and BY New to the fashion circus, Isabel Lucas, the Florida’s Falic Group in 2005. “Friendship,” When you hit the water hard it can really hurt.” Loulou de la Falaise Australian actress who’s won international was Carcelle’s reason, noting he was president PHOTOS fame for her role in “Transformers: Revenge of Lacroix for six months 20 years ago. “I For more Scoops, see page 11 4 WWD, Wednesday, July 8, 2009 Let It Shine Cool and classic got a dose of dramatic shimmer for couture in both Karl Lagerfeld’s lineup for Chanel and Giorgio Armani’s Privé collection.

Chanel: Provocateur that he is, Karl Lagerfeld knows that there’s something to be said for a high-profile flap now and then. So much so, that he transferred the notion to his haute couture collection for Chanel, which he showed on Tuesday evening against a set of four towering Chanel fragrance bottles. Though its near-10 p.m. start time seemed to herald otherwise, this was, by Lagerfeld’s standards, a low-key collection, one focused on the complete wardrobe needs of Chanel’s tony clientele. Hence, the plethora of fine suits, several appealing coats — including a brown-and-black tweed over jaunty cropped pants and autumn-leaf-toned tweed with triple Chanel sable border — and smart, versatile dresses, all shaped from a small, girlish, rounded shoulder. If it rings classic, it was, while getting a considerable dose of runway juice from the flap motif. Almost every outfit sported said appendage, cut clean and rectangular, and attached in back at shoulders, waist or hips, sometimes with bold contrasting facings. The flaps worked best when kept to skirt length on lean suits — a silvery sequined tweed and a belted burgundy wool — and dresses. For added drama, at times Lagerfeld Chanel extended them to floor-sweeping lengths — not to be confused with trains. (“Trains,” Lagerfeld said, “sounds pretentious.”) Either way, some flaps came from inside a skirt, as if in a shout-out to wary clients: “This is couture! I’m easily removed!” Still, after awhile, the trick turned too one- note tricky. This was less of a problem with evening, when Lagerfeld let loose with a gush of ideas. There were structure and flou; youthful party frocks and gorgeous grand-dame gowns; swirling, vibrant pinwheels of Lesage embroideries, and a no-voltage, hanky-hemmed black dress fit for a charming Goth Cinderella in rags. GIANNONI STEPHANE FEUGERE AND GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY WWD, Wednesday, July 8, 2009 5 couture/fall WWD.COM ’09 PARIS Giorgio Armani Privé Giorgio Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani Privé: Cool doesn’t refer only to the slickest dude in school. Another kind of cool has nothing to do with sophomoric swagger and everything to do with adult, fact-based self- assurance. As a designer, Giorgio Armani exudes that kind of cool, and his work appeals to women of like sensibility. In his program notes, Armani referred to her as both “radical and contemporary.” And, he might have added — diverse, given his multiinternational, cross- generational front row populated by, among others, Cate Blanchett, Megan Fox, Isabelle Huppert, Emmanuelle Béart and Claudia Cardinale. They settled in for Armani’s latest expression of contemporary dressing, one rooted firmly in the classics — his own. So bring on the smart pantsuits with lean-cut jackets in countless distinctive variations, some fastened with large, studded dome buttons; the slim dresses, the savvy glam gowns. As for playing to his gal’s radical side — and his own cool assurance — Armani dared to evoke a sporty attitude, which borrowed unmistakably from the boys, rendered in shirts (albeit sometimes of the naughty-lace variety) tucked into low-slung pants, as well as ample appearances of hoodies, blousons, polo shirts and demonstrative utility zipper, which made tracks across day clothes and high evening alike. Within the ever chichi context of couture, it made for a bold statement. Yet Armani’s intent was not to rethink couture by dressing down. Rather, he glistened his way to haute heights via high-shine fabrics and exuberant use of crystals, jewels, paillettes and sequins, sometimes merely glossing up a zipper, and at others, opting for full- on encrustation, as in a black suit smothered in penny-sized high-gloss leather paillettes. When he carried the latter approach into evening, the full-body sparkle of jewel-encrusted sheer bodyshirts and white trousers looked oh-so-disco-ready. Yet Armani tempered the voltage of a charming black gown by giving it a cover of loopy fringe. Because there’s more than one way for a girl to shine at night. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009

Christian Lacroix

Christian Christian Lacroix Lacroix

couture/fall ’09 PARIS

For more couture images and backstage coverage, see WWD.com. Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix: On Tuesday afternoon, Christian completely to the métier’s sheer beauty, romance became a saucy spencer with jeweled pockets and a Lacroix presented what very well may have been and boundless extravagance, any hint of temperance gold-buttoned military affair; an asymmetric draped his last haute collection, perhaps his last of any sort, be damned. If his evening creations were the stuff cocktail dress had a controlled spill of jewels down the for the house he launched from his poufy Patou of glorious dreams, a day jacket, all beribboned and front; a drop-waist coatdress looked almost stark. But springboard back in the high-flying Eighties. The show jeweled brocade, might have been plucked from an the biggest surprise was evening, almost all black and was perfect. 18th-century portrait. Magnificent, yes, but even as linear (save for a remarkable full-skirted, flamenco- Chez Lacroix’s receivership status stands in harsh, the shows awed endlessly with their beauty, they often influenced knockout), his passion for decoration as obvious alignment with the now-horrific economy: offered no hints of real-world restraint. subtle as a point d’esprit fichu, and for color, a single The man considered the purest of Paris’ remaining On Tuesday, Lacroix did more than hint. He vibrant, well-placed ribbon. One couldn’t help but couturiers, its heart and soul even, has had the showed a breathtaking collection that, while utterly wonder if, had Lacroix embraced this mood a few financial floor dropped from beneath him in a manner signature — not one item could have been conjured years ago, it would have taken him to a different place painful for us to watch, let alone for him to go through. by anyone else — was completely reality-based and than the one he’s in now. The process smacks of harbinger: Couture as we know wearable, from start to finish. Though apparently a Now, Lacroix must hope for a buyer in the worst it will, in all likelihood, change dramatically in the product of necessity — the coffers are pretty much of times. Then again, fashion has always attracted near future. empty — the newly sedate collection looked as haute adventure-seekers. To the deep-pocketed and Yet Lacroix’s woes started before those of the as ever, yet now utterly suited for life beyond a dream curious: Consider this collection one spectacular greater economy. Long ago he gave himself over sequence. Lacroix’s ultradecorated Basque jackets employment pitch. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 7 WWD.COM Givenchy Mighty Fine Fine jewelry collections have taken a playful turn here, from Pomellato’s Actor Christopher mouthwatering new collection of one-of-a- King presents kind Pom Pom couture rings and earrings, goodies from the presented in porcelain cake plates like Pom Pom couture desserts to Maison Martin Margiela’s collection. conceptual double-takes on the game (think a fused half signet-half solitaire ring, or a string of pearls suspended from a chain necklace). Flexing new jewelry techniques, Lorenz Bäumer unveiled the first design in his brewing titanium jewelry line, while Fabergé introduced a sneak peak of its fine jewelry relaunch.

Givenchy

Givenchy A Pom Pom couture ring made from a cushion- cut opal, gold and tangerine garnets. Animal-motif earrings in titanium, diamonds and blue lacquer by Lorenz Bäumer.

Two signet- cum-solitaire aitre

M rings from Maison Martin Margiela’s fine jewelry line, in

Dominique white rock crystal and silver and brown quartz and pink gold. Photos by

FabergE A new chapter in FabergE’s storied legacy is about to begin. Under its new owner, London-based private equity firm Pallinghurst Resources, the house is readying for a re-launch of its fine jewelry line this September, designed by Frédéric Zaavy and produced in Paris ateliers. “I studied Fabergé’s work for years. You could say the connection between our [creations] is the artisanal element; every piece is unique and we try to push each piece to the maximum,” said Zaavy. “I like the idea of rock ’n’ roll jewels and extraordinary classic pieces,” he said, adding that, currently in a pink and purple phase, he plans to introduce harder color perspectives to the line in the future. A range of pieces was unveiled in a preview here on Tuesday in Karl Lagerfeld’s former residence on the Rue de l’Université. Marking Fabergé’s arrival, an onion-domed cage opened the show, filled with designs inspired by Russian folklore including a winged silver horse brooch in myriad diamonds and moonstones. Elsewhere, a live puppet show with gems housed in mini-theater sets referenced the late Peter Carl Fabergé’s close ties with figures from Russia’s performing arts scene. Nature-inspired jewelry included a line of rose petal pins and a spectacular Nymphéa bracelet, its tapestry of miniature gems forming impressionist water lily motifs. Admiring the last piece (that took four years to make) was Fabergé’s great-grandaughter,

giannoni giovanni Tatiana Fabergé, in her late 70s, who has closely followed the project. “I’ve been waiting for this moment for some time,” she said, adding erasing licensing errors made by the brand’s successive run of owners will prove one of the biggest hurdles for the new hotos by

p team. (Fabergé’s name is said to be connected with a Fabergé’s host of unlikely categories, including laundry powder.) fine jewelry Banking on the brand’s “extraordinary aura of Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci has taken Givenchy far from Paris and set up camp in North designer mystique,” which still resonates with craftsmen and Africa. To the rat-a-tat-tat of Moroccan cymbals, the designer staged a transporting, Frédéric the public alike, chief executive officer Mark Dunhill open-air couture show, with fluttering chiffon hoods and swishing sarouel pants Zaavy. said he feels confident about steering Fabergé back to evoking the traditional costumes of Berber women — albeit with a streetwise edge. its former glory. Focusing on exquisite craftsmanship is The show opened on a strong note, with black velvet carved into coats and jackets one of the first steps, he said. New takes on the brand’s with demonstrative shoulders and cinched waists. Tisci has mapped out tough iconic enameled eggs could be introduced at a later glamour as his fashion turf, and his models — with chunky gold rings on every finger stage. The firm will open its first “salon” boutique in and tiaras of spikes worthy of the Statue of Liberty — looked ready to defend it. Geneva this September, as well as an online store. Studs and metal hardware are Tisci fixations, and he is prone to overstatement, “[Fabergé] conveys the romance and mystique including for his most recent men’s collection. Here, gold shards resembling shark teeth of a bygone era, with this combination of Russian tinkled from the hem of a swingy jacket in ivory cashmere. Metal cones poked out from spirituality and French sensuality; the memory of the sleeves and down the back of evening columns, suggesting the spikes of reptiles. Rasputin and the tragedy of the Romanovs. It’s quite a Thankfully, Tisci also flexed some muscle in the flou department. A long black potent cocktail,” said Dunhill. chiffon dress with a billowing, hooded blouson was a standout — as was a suite of Rather than dwelling on the past, the future of draped goddess dresses in powdery pink, some studded with bright pink or green the brand lies in using this legacy — as the ultimate stones. Another ended in a hand-painted dégradé, from blush to ruby red, like a jeweler and goldsmith — as a springboard, he said. sunset in the Sahara. — Katya Foreman 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 WWD.COM Maison Martin Margiela: Known for transforming vintage Maison Martin Margiela Alexandre Matthieu throwaways into cool stuff for today, Maison Martin Margiela has been presenting the experimental Belgian designer’s so-called Artisanal line of handmade clothing during the Paris couture season for some time. This outing, Margiela practiced a panoply of his familiar tricks, slyly turning hundreds of blue ballpoint pen covers into a jacket or using colorful fake eyelashes to confect an eye-catching vest. Other wacky pieces included a bolero fashioned out of dissected bungee cords and a jacket made from a mosaic of broken bicycle reflectors. While Margiela played to his artsy tune, there was tamer fare — a leather motorcycle jacket decorated with chains, à la Michael Jackson, and a shaved vintage fur, which illustrated the house is migrating into more commercial territory. Case in point: The Maison also used the presentation to highlight its second semiprecious jewelry collection.

Azzaro: Since assuming command at Azzaro, designer Vanessa Seward has cemented the house’s reputation for a certain type of retro glamour updated for cool “It” girls of the present. Last month, even French first lady Carla Bruni- Sarkozy donned a fetching Azzaro gown for an official Azzaro engagement, showing the house is gaining traction beyond the Hollywood red carpet. For this season, Seward delivered a sexy lineup of dresses, many with intricate pleating details, which should please her clients perfectly. Seward, who in the recent past has teamed up with guest designers from Eugenie Niarchos to Jemima Khan, called on the talents of Paris graphic designers Florence Deygas and Olivier Kuntzel to give her dresses some extra pizzazz. The duo devised a cute Maison Martin Margiela heart print that made its way onto a flirty sundress and two make-believe characters called Bear and Doll, which decorated scarves and the lining of trenchcoats. They were fun. But it was Seward’s sinuous gowns with mesh jewelry incorporated into the neckline, a gold-fringed jacket with embedded crystals and short flirty gold mesh that showed Seward testing new waters while staying true to Azzaro’s sultry DNA.

Alexandre Matthieu: Invited to show during couture for the first time, Alexandre Morgando and Matthieu Bureau sent out a small collection of short, embellished dresses that variously evoked the fun of the circus, ice-skaters and a Parisian cabaret. Graphic prints, for which the duo is known, reflected city lights and

fireworks, and worked best in GIANNONI black and white. Highlights included an oversize baby- doll dress in pale green, given GIOVANNI a more grown-up edge with AND black Swarovski crystals and

veiled in black tulle. Feathers MAITRE were featured throughout, as an accent on shoulders or as a

total pink-feathered dress, of DOMINIQUE which Björk — who catapulted BY the label to fame — would no doubt be a fan. PHOTOS A COMMUNITY OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

WOMENS, BETTER, BRIDGE, PREMIUM, CONTEMPORARY, YOUNG CONTEMPORARY, JUNIORS, ECOLLECTION, KIDS, SWIM, FOOTWEAR AND ACCESSORIES

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REGISTER TODAY AT MAGICONLINE.COM OR AT 877.554.4834 10 WWD, wednesday, july 8, 2009 Emerging Designers Set the Pace in Berlin By Melissa Drier with metallic salmon skin, while Escada’s A look from Designer an easy black silk shift took BERLIN — There was no doubting retrospective in the for Tomorrow winner shape, bloused and bubbled the energy pulsing through the city Bode Museum. Sam Frenzel. in front with a bold, golden during Mercedes-Benz Fashion industrial zipper running the Week Berlin last week. full length in the back. The four-day event, which ended Launched in 2005, Saturday, saw a packed city, with Penkov, another taxis scarce and subways jammed: MBFWB newcomer not Berlin’s normal scene. And the based here, aimed calendar was chock-full, not only to fuse jewelry and because Bread & Butter, Premium clothing, hitting the and four other trade fairs were mark with draped running concurrently, but owing chains, though the to scores of designers and fashion metallic leather brands that had chosen the German appliqués weren’t capital as their showplace of choice always on tar- for spring 2010. get. Designer IMG, organizers of the MBFWB Bernadett Penkov runway shows, said the shows in may have been in- the tents and off-site attracted more spired by the film than 22,000 people, up from 18,000 “Blade Runner” for in January. Now in its fifth season, spring, but there MBFWB has become a meeting place were touches of for major German fashion editors Maria and Metropolis and editors in chief. International to be found in her ele- attendance was up, as well. gant dresses, pants and That being said, Berlin remains jackets in mostly off- a mixed bag from a fashion point white, apricot and light of view, and this season especially, gray silk crepe, twill and it was the newcomers and lesser- chiffon. known labels rather than the more The blend of a femi- established brands that generated nine Forties look with a the most attention. futuristic bent was clear Lala Berlin, designed by Leyla in a taupe jacket with cop- Piedaysesh, created a lot of buzz per mesh sleeve details, with her blend of sophisticated and a sculpted bustier glamour with a rough, hard-core dress with a sheer skirt. edge. Having started out in 2004 Penkov’s subtle super- knitting all her own accessories, women carry the weight of Piedaysesh stuck to her roots with the world on their delicately oversize chunky sweaters and float- strong shoulders, sometimes ing floor- length cardigans. By com- with visible shoulder pads. bining the knits with slinky silk eve- German-born and New York ning dresses, she created her most based designer Kai Kühne, glamorous collection to date. who showed in Berlin for the But if Lala Berlin has gone glam, second time, went razor sharp the urban edge is still very much For more Berlin collection with intricate, geometric cuts there, with leather cummerbunds, looks, go to WWD.com. in black or metallic-toned silk. metallic patches and frayed hems Among the highlights: widow- adding a raw touch to some sophisti- peaked short shorts, the legs cated pieces. A silk, full-length eve- coming to an unexpected point in ning dress was made funky with zips the front and worn with tailored hanging down the back, while a pret- sleeveless jackets with “uphol- ty cotton shift dress got a contem- stered” shoulders or a simpler porary twist with frayed seams and leather vest; all manner of little gold plates. The rough-meets-smooth Kai Kühne Kaviar black dresses featuring geomet- theme was illustrated by feminine Gauche ric seaming or cutouts and a skin- printed silks decorated with work- tight metallic origami sheath and manlike nuts, bolts and cogs. its sister high-waisted pencil skirt, While last January’s belts-and- paired with a tiny black jersey bags-only Kaviar Gauche runway top. While one needs to take a show left many in the audience close look to figure out Kühne’s wanting more from designers constructions, his bold, megabead Johanna Kühl and Alexandra jewelry was easily grasped — and Fischer-Roehler, this spring’s debut coveted — by all. of the label’s Bridal Couture collec- Sabrina Dehoff, on the other tion left far more wishing it was hand, represented fashion’s soft time to tie the knot — especially side. The Berlin designer, who those who’ve left their Cinderella got her start doing delightfully di- fantasies behind. minutive jewelry, made a silken This young but sophisticated MFBWB debut with satin dresses, Berlin-based duo came up with tops and bottoms that floated as myriad cool bride options: short easily as her tinted cloud nine or frocks tied at the shoulder with a more stormy tie-dyed prints. There floor-length bow or covered all over was a scarf-like feel throughout, with shimmy shake fringe; laser- some tops and dresses simply tied cut leather pants paired with a silk in back, others with excess fabric organza shirt hitched up and tied; cleverly but not trickily gathered jumpsuits and pants ensembles, dan and corina lecca and clasped in the back. Dehoff ’s and even a little coat dress, all ac- Mongrels beautifully made frocks won an cessorized with multistrap- and in Common approving nod from Berlin’s tony chain-accented sandals. And all photos by Departmentstore Quartier 206, capable of being worn again, long among others. after the honeymoon is over. Local designer Frida Weyer’s professional runway premiere during MBFWB clearly Mongrels in Common made its MBFWB debut with an appetizing collection using focused on special occasion dressing. And more intriguingly, it offered a range of nighttime tanned salmon skins. All the leather that appeared either as triangular accents or full froth for — and by — a member of a jeans born-and-bred generation that’s possibly never skin pants, bras, or little cropped jackets is derived from bio-salmon skins tanned worn a party dress. without the use of chemicals under the Nanai trademark. While innocence and Berlin don’t generally go hand in hand, Weyer is an un- A favorite with young professional women, who nonetheless want a break from typical abashed romantic who loves softly gathered silk chiffon in Jordan almond pastels, 9-to-5 gear, Mongrels in Common’s design team of Christine Pluess and Livia Ximénez- flowers and lace. However, she showed she can also take a more siren-worthy ap- Carillo specializes in disparate, mongrelized mixes. For spring, they confronted softness proach with tight-fitting sheaths, or hit the clubs in little flapper/go-go hybrids styled with structure. Shaped bustier dresses topped roomy, cotton blouses or unexpectedly in St. Gallen embroidered lace tear-drops. billowed at the back, as did a simple lavender shirt tucked into skinny, salmon skin pants. One of fashion week’s biggest surprises, however, was the Designer for Tomorrow Their signature slip-on shirtdress appeared in taupe silk, subtly darted and accented Award, sponsored by German specialty store chain Peek & Cloppenburg, Düsseldorf. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 11 WWD.COM FASHION SCOOPS BLANCHETT DUBOIS: Giorgio Armani’s muses turned out in force to his Privé couture Emerging Designers Set the Pace in Berlin show Tuesday. Cate Blanchett and Isabelle Huppert sat front row alongside Elsa Now in its second season, the eight stu- a self-trained designer connected to Pataky, Megan Fox and the star of Armani’s dent participants not only sent out ex- the indie music scene, offered tailored latest fragrance ad, Polish actress Kasia amples of their vision and promise. The bike-shorts for guys and dressed-up Smutniak. Blanchett said she’s about to quality of execution was so exceptional looks for gals. start production of Liv Ullmann’s theatrical that even the most far-out creations, And what of Germany’s established, take on Tennessee Williams’ “A Streetcar like Sasa Kovacevic’s three-dimen- tried-and-true labels? Commercial and Named Desire,” in which she plays sional knit men-who-fell-to-earth en- fashion favorites like Schumacher and Blanche DuBois. “The outfi ts are faded sembles, made a convincing transition Strenesse Blue continued to provide at- bowerbird I would say,” she said. from concept to reality. Chalk it up to tractive, wearable duds and megabuck Fox, who shot to fame in hand work on the part of the students shows with brilliant production values “Transformers,” said she has a trio — speculation that P&C had helped brought a welcome whiff of the big time of movies in the works and a fashion with the garments’ production proved to Berlin. But there seems to be a sea campaign, though kept mum on details. totally unfounded. change in the market, and both Boss “It’s a worldwide brand,” she teased. Juries always politely say the choice Orange’s VIP-studded relaunch in a mas- Huppert, who sipped a cocktail of a winner was diffi cult, but this time sive factory hall in Berlin’s outer reach- with Claudia Cardinale, said she’s just they weren’t kidding. Sam Frenzel’s must- es (see sidebar, below) and Michalsky’s fi nished “Copacabana” alongside her Megan Fox and have accessories — sculptural acrylic brilliantly staged Friedrichstadtpalast actress daughter Lolita Chammah. And Cate Blanchett bow belts, mega 3-D Lucite necklaces fl ing for an audience of 1,800 nonethe- Cardinale had fl own in from wrapping her and bracelets, unusually proportioned less left viewers hungry for more merch latest movie in Casablanca, and is next clutch bags, some to wear attached to the and less merchandising. promoting her book, “My Tunisia,” about Kasia arm, and snakeskin leggings — helped Still, the pomp paid off for Escada, the country where she was born. Smutniak clinch the decision. But it was also his which staged a spectacular, rose-col- Continuing the cocktail at the Idole audacious combinations of shape and ored retrospective in Berlin’s mag- d’Armani fragrance launch next door, texture that earned him the title. nifi cent Bode Museum. Pink carpets, Smutniak reenacted a boudoir scene Chantal Margiotta also wowed with masses of pink lilies, nonstop pink from its ad. “At fi rst I was like ‘Aaaah, stunning double-face tailored coats Champagne, pink light and even pink- everybody’s looking at me!’ Now it’s and dresses, complex in construction striped clouds (courtesy of Mother better,” she said between poses. The but ultimately simple in effect. Derya Nature) set the tone, and the 50 manne- actress is looking forward to a month Issever was edgy yet elegant, pairing a quins dressed in a rainbow of Escada of promotional editorial for the scent. mud and gray tie-dyed satin blouse and looks from 1978 to 2009 easily held their “It’s like being in a movie, it’s fun to tie-dyed stockings with a skirt stud- own amidst the neo-Baroque grandeur shoot with very big photographers,” she ded with jewel-like objects encased in of the interior. beamed. Lucite. She also crimped a short leath- Could the economically pressed Pataky said she’ll next pay homage to er skirt, its belt comprising belt buckles Escada afford it? “May I answer that Spanish actresses in “DD en Hollywood.” sunken in Lucite. with a simple yes or no?” quipped “It’s the story of Latin American actresses Also of note in the up-and-coming Escada chief Bruno Sälzer in re- trying to make it. My character comes STEPHANE FEUGERE class: fi rst-timer Michael Sontag’s airy sponse. “But more seriously, I have to from a little village in Spain. It shows Isabelle Huppert and cottons, folded, cinched, ruched but es- separate fi nancial issues and fashion all she has to go through, learning the Emmanuelle Béart PHOTOS BY sentially clean in look and interesting statement. It’s more important than language, all the bad side, the gossip. I in volume; Starstyling’s playful do-it- ever to motivate our customers and can relate to it,” she laughed. Sharapova, and short, witty commentaries, the yourself aesthetic featuring pouches create a buzz. If you forget the fi nan- book recounts the history of Russian taste and and pockets to stick on and peel off cial situation, it’s a fantastic time to HOLE IN ONE: Adeline André staged what could its infl uence on international fashion. “We’re so garments or even limbs with Velcro, do that.” be the world’s smallest couture show Monday, used to computers it’s exhausting doing all this plus the more decorative use of Velcro — With contributions from Damien showing just one writing,” sighed Khromchenko, who’s a bit of a and Mylar. Meanwhile, Kilian Kerner, McGuinness and Susan Stone look for women star in her country. As well as having provided and one for men. the voice-over for Meryl Streep in the Russian- To demonstrate language version of “The Devil Wears Prada,” her patented Khromchenko hosts a makeover show called Boss Orange Relaunches three-armhole “Fashion Verdict.” design (and BERLIN — The industrial setting — cav- of the biggest denim producers in the reveal just how WRITE AND LEFT: Alexandre Vauthier delayed ernous factory halls about 20 miles from world, Boss chief Claus-Dietrich Lahrs much fabric went the start of his show Tuesday to wait for guest the city — and the turbolike engine re- said the goal was not to make Boss into each piece), of honor and sometime brand ambassador volving at the end of the runway was Orange a denim brand. Denim is a the four items, Roisin Murphy. “I was so stressed, we got the perfect backdrop for the relaunch key element, and Allen used including a shirt, stuck in traffi c and they were calling me of Boss Orange during Mercedes- the group’s tailoring expertise jacket and coat going; ‘Where are Benz Fashion Week Berlin. More to craft a denim trenchcoat for men, were you?’” said the than anything, one felt Hugo and even an evening dress. But fi rst pegged on a singer, who was Boss’ massive industrial wheels essentially, Boss Orange aims clothesline before accompanied by rolling. to provide today’s denim-bred being donned by her boyfriend, artist The more casual Boss Orange generation the items with which the models. The Simon Henwood. line, now under the creative to build their own style state- women’s look, a Preferring her direction of Eyan Allen, repre- ments. layered silk crepe front-row seat to sents the German power brand’s As seen on the runway, that dress merging walking the runway second largest source of sales means long line, scoop-neck from fl esh color The Adeline André show. for Vauthier as she GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY after Boss Black. In 2008, that Ts; relaxed roll-up jeans and tones to pinks did last season, added up to about $426 mil- casual pants; tailored and reds, took minutes to put on as meters Murphy said lion, or 19 percent of total Hugo denim coats and jackets; of fabric and a staggering 21 armholes were she’s currently Boss brand sales of $2.25 billion chambray shirts, and su- wound around. “I wanted to show my work, and concentrating (converted from the euro at an av- perfl uid cardigans for men. the history of the armholes, in a very precise on “writing and erage exchange rate for the year). Boss Orange staples for way,” André said. making music. The men’s Boss Orange collection women include swingy, fl oor- You’ll hear about is sold in more than 3,000 points length, sash-waisted skirts in FRIENDS IN TWEED?: There’s no love lost the album in the of sale, the women’s range in more fabrics ranging from chambray between Chanel’s couturier Karl Lagerfeld and next couple of than 1,000. to satin prints and silver lamé; Audrey Tautou, the petite French actress who months,” she said, But last fall, the decision was denim trenchcoats, peacoats and stars in the latest No.5 commercial and the before heading to made to move Boss Orange in a new neo-traditional jean jackets; shorts fi lm “Coco Before Chanel.” Lagerfeld was not Roisin Murphy Givenchy’s show. direction: trading the collection’s orig- of all lengths; jumpsuits; blousons involved in either project, but he took Tautou STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY inal ethno-boho approach for a cleaner and sports blazers, and skinny to task for remarks in an interview in a recent PICK AND MIX: American designer Earl Pickens’ and more urban look. jeans and pants. issue of Premiere in France. Asked if she wears fi rst Paris show scored with one local political Allen said he had three style icons Boss Orange also has a new retail a lot of Chanel, she replied: “Sometimes. This star. The onetime — and potentially future in mind when he started Orange’s design, featuring lots of burnished morning, I wore the rain boots.” — Socialist presidential candidate Ségolène transformation: Sienna Miller, “a cool steel for a decor Allen said will look “I didn’t even know we made rain boots,” Royal praised the designer’s smocked blue little girl who knows how to put stuff better with age. “We’re also using quipped Lagerfeld. “After that, I don’t have to shirt and fl uid beige jersey dress. Turns out together in her own way” and who’s the beautiful solid oak that looks 100 be nice.” If he had his druthers, Lagerfeld said that the Bocage Avenir Couture factory, which new face of the Boss Orange perfume; years old, together with very modern he would have suggested Penélope Cruz as a makes Pickens wares, is located in Royal’s Kate Moss, whom Allen said “gives a fi xtures and concrete walls. And the better role model for the storied French house. native Deux Sevres region, and her fi rst order fresh approach to the obvious,” and denim wall is made of just big steel gird- (two jackets, trousers and a woven denim Johnny Depp. ers and horizontal wooden planks.” RUSSIAN AROUND: Style mavens fl ocked to pencil skirt) was hanging backstage, ready for The new geometric Boss Orange logo The new store design will be gradu- Assouline’s Saint-Germain store on Monday delivery. Also on hand was J. Alexander, who, bears a faint resemblance to that of ally introduced over the next two night for a book signing for one of its new having wrapped the fi nale for “America’s Next Carhartt, and indeed the new col- A sporty look from years, and is slated to premiere editions — “Russian Style” by Evelina Top Model,” was returning to New York to lection has more in common with Boss Orange. in a store opening in Singapore Khromchenko, editor in chief of L’Offi ciel fi nalize proofs for his upcoming autobiography/ such authentic workwear and denim in December. Russia. With images of prominent Russian self-help tome, “Follow the Model,” due from brands than in the past. But while Boss is one — M.D. icons ranging from Catherine the Great to Maria Simon & Schuster in November. 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 WWD.COM Marketing Shoppers Change the Gift Card Game

Continued from page one worthless at Linens-N-Things, and Once a license to indulge, gift cards are increasingly were restricted at Sharper Image, being given for practical purchases like phone bills, Fashion Boutique Receipt with provisions like limits on food and gasoline. card amounts that could be ap- “The everyday-ness of gift cards from, say, plied per item or store locations AT&T or Target, becomes a great value,” said SLIM FIT DENIM 126.00 where they could be used. Wendy Liebmann, president of WSL Strategic 0000142065 Riley bought a gift card at Retail. “At the beginning, that was seen as Linens-N-Things in May 2008 an insult. Now, it’s seen as a great gift.” and said he was “shocked” that At Wal-Mart stores, shoppers have been COTTON TANK 18.00 no one warned him the card “buying more groceries with gift cards” since 0000173895 could be worthless, considering Christmas, said spokesman John Simley. the now-defunct chain of more In a survey of 9,000 adults by BIGresearch than 500 stores was filing for bank- in January, the average respondent said ruptcy protection that day. they bought three gift cards this past holi- SUBTOTAL 144.00 “Just for fun, I went in on the day I knew day, down from four in 2007. They spent an they were filing Chapter 11, and no one tried average of 15 percent less for these cards, to stop me from buying it,” he recalled. “One or $142, compared with $166 a year earlier. reason I bought it was to see if someone And fewer were buying them: 52 percent of GIFT CARD would say, human to human, that this card shoppers, compared with 57 percent. CASHH will be no good.” “We see this decrease continuing, based When it takes effect Aug. 22, 2010, Title on talks with some of the issuers,” said Stacy CCASHASH 150.00150.00 IV of the CARD Act signed by President Janiak, vice chairman and U.S. retail prac- Obama in May will prohibit the expiration of tice leader at Deloitte. “The average number CCASHASH 6.006.00 gift cards in less than five years from their date of cards being bought and dollar amounts $50 of issue. It will allow inactivity and service fees being put on them both have dropped since to be charged to the cards only after they haven’t holiday. According to the big chain retailers, been used for 12 consecutive months. there hasn’t been a big increase in gift card “We’re advocating fees of no more than $1 redemption rates. I was expecting to see high- a month and only on cards with a value of $5 or er redemption rates this season.” CARD less,” all but eliminating fees on gift card value, At stake is some of the estimated $59.9 bil- said Michelle Jun, a Consumers Union staff attorney, lion in value stored on the prepaid cards in 0011693870241100900116938702411009 who noted “exact fees” were not set by the Credit Card 2008 — down from $70 billion in 2007 — and Accountability, Responsibility and Disclosure Act. the $2.7 billion people said they would put on the plastic this spring as presents for Mother’s Shoppers often spend more than a gift card’s value, Day and Father’s Day, according to reports from the prompting them to delay purchases this year. The everyday-ness of gift cards National Retail Federation and TowerGroup. “ “Historically, our gift card sales correlate to the num- In addition, more shoppers are waiting to from, say, AT&T or Target, becomes ber of trips guests take to our stores,” a Target spokes- accumulate additional cards and combine them man said. “This year is not significantly different, with to create greater value in a particular venue. a great value. At the beginning, that gift card sales reflecting the general trends in the over- Others forget they have been given the cards all sales environment.” Target’s sales were almost flat after tossing them into a drawer or wallet. was seen as an insult. Now, it’s seen in the first quarter ended May 2, edging up 0.2 percent Almost half the 13,000 shoppers polled in to $14.83 billion. Deloitte’s Annual Holiday Survey said they as a great gift. Another factor holding down redemptions is the com- were going into the 2008-’09 winter season with mon experience of a card holder needing to spend more about six unused gift cards — twice as many as — Wendy” Liebmann, WSL Strategic Retail than a card’s value to buy an item, marketing experts in 2007. Their top two worries were: “I’ve had said. In a period of treasure hunts for value and person- at least one card expire before I could use it” (cited by Bills being considered in three state legislatures al savings rates climbing to an average of 6.9 percent in 24 percent) and “I am concerned about the store closing — New York, Massachusetts and Connecticut — would May from 5.7 percent in April and 4.5 percent in March, before I can use my card” (23 percent). require retailers to maintain “a trust in which funds specific gifts are sometimes considered by recipients to In 2008, about $6.4 billion sat unused in stored value would be held to cover outstanding gift cards in the case be worth more than gift cards. cards and more than $100 million in gift card value was of a bankruptcy,” Jun said. “Previously, gift cards felt like a gift,” said Ron “compromised” in the bankruptcies and liquidations of “With a lot of negative press, especially when Rentel, president of consultant Consumer Eyes. “Now Linens-N-Things and Sharper Image, said Brian Riley, Sharper Image did not honor its gift cards, [retailers] they might seem more literally like money. People are director of research at TowerGroup, a MasterCard unit appear to be growing more concerned,” she added, in savings mode. They seem too overt for the time.” that publishes a gift card study each fall. They became when asked about Eddie Bauer’s plans to honor its out- standing cards despite filing for bankruptcy on June 17. (An order issued in Delaware Bankruptcy Court granted Eddie Bauer permission to keep accepting the cards as it reorganizes, a spokeswoman for the retailer said.) “The lack of confidence in stores was significant after a string of Chapter 11’s, starting with Sharper Image,” Riley said. “We believe there continues to be a lot of caution there.” Consumers’ worries also could be heightened by purchases of fraudulently obtained gift cards that are sold by third parties at flea markets, online auction sites and elsewhere for prices higher than the value stored on them. Criminals typically buy the cards with funds from stolen credit cards or stolen merchandise they’ve fenced. The fraudsters then use those stored-value cards themselves and sell them to unsuspecting shop- pers at prices that misrepresent any value left on the cards. The victims have no recourse. Joseph LaRocca, the NRF’s senior asset protection adviser, said gift cards, denim jeans, cosmetics, DVDs, over-the-counter medications and infant formula “are things that can be resold easily in anonymous commerce on the street or online.” In its recently published “2009 Organized Retail Crime Survey,” NRF reported 57 of 115 big chains, including department, discount and specialty stores, saw online fencing activity rise during the 12 months ended in May. Stolen gift cards and-or merchandise was “identified or recovered” by 60 percent of those

surveyed, versus 68 percent, in 2007. Identifying marks er B like laser-printed brand names, price tickets and serial numbers recorded by retailers aid in the recoveries, haron S LaRocca explained. “Law enforcement has admissions or has document- on by ed where the thefts took place,” LaRocca said, “and i [this information] is entered into evidence, in many of

The liquidations of high-profile chains like Fortunoff, Steve & Barry’s and Circuit City have spooked some gift card purchasers. the large organized retail crime cases.” Illustrat 3x7 (right)

WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 13 WWD.COM MEMO PAD BEAUTY BEAT THE EARLY NUMBERS: With the estimated 30 million to 40 million U.S. viewers who were expected to tune into Michael Jackson’s memorial High-Price Fragrance Sales Gain in First Quarter service Tuesday morning, it’s no surprise the celebrity weeklies also are Overall sales Of prestige fragrances cent of sales during the first quarter. since the first seeing a bounce in newsstand sales from coverage of the King of Pop’s may be down in U.s. department stores but sales quarter of 2006, sales of high-priced face makeup death. Multiple sources with access to scan data said early estimates of high-priced scents were up by double digits in jumped from $14.1 million to $27.1 million. show the entire category reported strong sales last week. People, whose the first quarter of this year compared with the “the growth in premium fragrance and makeup, best-selling issues have covered the deaths of Princess Diana and John F. same period a year ago, according to the npD while smaller segments compared to premium skin Kennedy Jr., is on track to sell 2.8 million copies of its Michael Jackson group inc. care, is driven by the fact that these products are tribute issue. Time Inc. published special editions of People last week During the first quarter, single fragrances still perceived as more niche and unique to the pres- with different back covers of the singer, priced at $100 and above accounted for 9 percent tige arena,” said Karen grant, senior global industry one of a younger Jackson, the other of total sales in the fragrance market, or $26 mil- analyst and vice president of beauty for npD. from his adult years, that will be on lion, an increase of 10 percent from the first quar- When it comes to premium-priced facial skin newsstands through next week. If the ter of 2008, the firm stated. care products, or those priced at $70 and above estimate holds, the issue will have sold expensive makeup has also done well, while — a category believed to be recession proof, the more than the Aug. 8, 2008, issue of sales of high priced skin care products have fal- firm stated — sales declined by 6 percent in the baby photos of Brad Pitt and Angelina tered, according to npD. fourth quarter of 2008. the trend continued in the Jolie’s twins, Knox Léon and Vivienne in makeup, sales of products priced at $50 and first quarter of 2009, when sales of facial skin care Marcheline, and will have topped the above have almost doubled in the past three years. products were down by 7 percent. Dec. 22, 1980, issue covering the these face makeup products accounted for 6 per- — Matthew W. Evans death of John Lennon. Us Weekly is on track to sell about 1.2 million copies of its issue with Jackson and two of his children on its Tara Subkoff cover with the cover line “His Final Tara Subkoff Benefit Set Days.” That would beat its average frienDs Of Designer does not undergo surgery, she weekly sale for the year so far of tara subkoff, who has been would likely not live more than 860,000 copies, and is also close to diagnosed with a benign brain two years. recuperation may sales of Us Weekly’s best-selling story tumor that must be removed, take as long as a year. line this year surrounding Jon and Kate Gosselin’s disintegrating marriage. plan a benefit to help raise subkoff, 36, is best known Bauer Publishing’s In Touch sold more than one million copies of money for her care. as the founding designer of last week’s issue, which featured a split cover with Jackson and Farrah the event, set for 5 to 10 p.m. the imitation of christ brand, Fawcett. But sister title Life & Style used Jackson as the main cover on July 15 at the Deitch projects which she sold to Josh sparks, image and sold 600,000 copies last week, a strong seller for the title. gallery, 76 grand street, in then-founder and chief execu- Meanwhile, OK magazine caused controversy last week when it Manhattan, will include a si- tive officer of new York-based reportedly spent $500,000 to buy the image of a lifeless Jackson being lent art auction as well as 200 rockwood Management group, tion tara subkoff for Bebe line. loaded into an ambulance for its cover, a move most considered in poor of subkoff ’s own one-of-a-kind early last year. sparks, who is that was the designer’s second taste. Figuring the cover would spark interest, OK increased its newsstand imitation of christ pieces. Her now ceo at thom Browne, closed collaboration. four years ago, she draw to 1.4 million, said sources outside of the magazine. However, early friends are asking local artists the brand in December because designed a much-buzzed-about estimates forecast the issue will sell 550,000 copies, or just 100,000 more to donate their works for the of the increased need for cash line of footwear for easy spirit. than its average weekly sale. Despite the less-than-bankable results, sources auction to the art production flow in the economic downturn. subkoff also has appeared in small at competing titles said OK will spend another $200,000 to buy exclusive fund at 299 West Houston subkoff subsequently signed roles in movies such as “american images of Jackson at home with his children for next week’s issue. street in Manhattan. a deal with Bebe, for whom she pie,” “as good as it gets” and “the Star opted to forgo a Jackson cover, instead using an old tabloid subkoff ’s friends said if she created a one-season limited edi- last Days of Disco.” favorite — the best and worst of celebrity beach bodies. Certainly some readers welcomed the cheeky reprieve: The issue sold a respectable 800,000 copies. — Stephanie D. Smith

NEW LEADER: Former Hachette Filipacchi Media chief executive officer Jack Kliger has jumped back into publishing. He will join private equity firm OpenGate Capital as a senior adviser and as acting ceo of TV Guide We extend our appreciation to the following tenants and their Magazine, which OpenGate acquired in December from Macrovision for $1, according to filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission representatives for their recent commitments totaling over 100,000 (Macrovision later sold tvguide.com and its television channel to square feet. Landscape for a reported $250 million). Kliger joins OpenGate a year after he stepped down as ceo of Hachette, where during his nine years at the helm he managed titles 1411 Broadway including Elle, Woman’s Day, Car and Driver and Road & Track. He hit a few potholes there as well, however, including the launch and subsequent New York, NY closure of teen title Ellegirl, raunchy men’s magazine Shock and women’s service magazine For Me. Prior to Hachette, Kliger was an executive  vice president at Condé Nast Publications — parent of WWD — and Jeffrey Kilimnick & Bernard Weitzman, CB Richard Ellis, Inc. publisher at Condé Nast’s Glamour and GQ. Kliger succeeds former ceo Scott Crystal, whom OpenGate dismissed suddenly last month. At the time, OpenGate named Michael Clayton, the company’s executive vice  president, as Crystal’s interim successor. Clayton will remain with the Anthony Dattoma & Michael Movshovich, CB Richard Ellis, Inc. company and report to Kliger. OpenGate also owns an auto parts company, Gabriel North America,  and European modeling agency Models1, but TV Guide is the firm’s first foray into media. “As OpenGate continues to expand into media, and Michael Yadgard, Millennium Realty as the company furthers its success with publications like TV Guide Magazine, Jack’s guidance on media and expansion strategies will be  a tremendous asset to us,” said ceo Andrew Nikou of Kliger’s hire. That said, TV Guide has struggled since its new owners took over. The weekly  magazine reportedly lost $20 million last year; through June 29, ad Laura Pomerantz & Robert Neborak, PBS Real Estate pages have declined 28 percent, to 364. — S.D.S.

MULTIMEDIA ARTIST: Ed Ruscha was the biggest draw last week at the  contemporary-arts auctions in London, with his painting “That Was Then This Is Now” selling for $1.1 million. For those who can’t afford that  steep price tag, a more Vincent Tuminelli, CB Richard Ellis, Inc. affordable option is in the works: Ruscha has shot the new cover  of TAR magazine. Glenn Isaacson, CB Richard Ellis, Inc The Californian artist  photographed actor  Viggo Mortensen, and it marks the first time  Ruscha has created a  cover for a print media  outlet. Past covers of  TAR were created by Julian Schnabel and Damien Hirst. Inside the issue, which hits Ed Ruscha shoots Viggo Mortensen. newsstands in October, contributors will include Mario Sorrenti, as well as Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte and Miranda July, who collaborated for a fashion portfolio. — Amy Wicks 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes and more financial news, see WWD.com / business-news. Upgrade Sends Jones Stock Up 1.6% Jones Apparel Group Inc. rode an trends and inventory realignment,” lead- Economic Woes Drag Down M&A Activity upgrade from Goldman Sachs & Co. to a 1.6 ing to better gross margins and profits. Global mergers and acquisi- Large-cap deals of more than $500 percent stock gain Tuesday as retail shares Domestic department stores are respon- tions activity fell as the global downturn million fell 52.2 percent by volume activ- and the major indices endured a sell-off. sible for 59 percent of Jones’ revenues, worsened in the first half of 2009. ity and were down 38.7 percent by trans- Citing Jones’ initiatives and an expected higher than competitors Liz Claiborne Inc., Data compiled by the research firm actional value. While the U.S. recorded improvement among midtier department at 44 percent; Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., Mergermarket showed total deal volume a 9.6 percent slip in large-cap transac- stores starting in the second half, Goldman 40 percent, and Carters Inc., 38 percent. was down 47.4 percent to 3,800 trans- tions by value, six of the 10 largest deals equity analyst Benjamin Rowbotham up- Rowbotham wrote that Goldman’s actions, compared with the year-ago involved U.S. targets. The biggest was in graded Jones to “buy” from “neutral” and earnings-per-share estimates of 66 cents period, and the value of M&A activity January 2009, involving Pfizer’s acquisi- raised his price target to $12 from $9.70. and 87 cents for the current and next fis- dropped 43.6 percent to $705.7 billion. tion of Wyeth at $64 billion, according to Shares of the New York-based wholesaler cal years, respectively, are 5 percent and Deal volume decreased 51.6 percent Mergermarket. and retailer of sportswear, footwear and 19 percent above current Wall Street esti- from the peak of 7,880 transactions dur- At the lower midmarket tier, deals accessories ended the session at $9.68, up mates, “reflecting improved cyclical mar- ing the first half of 2007, as total value between $10 million and $250 million 15 cents, and traded as high as $10.24. gins, cost cuts, better sourcing and retail fell 66 percent from almost $2 trillion. accounted for an average of 47.4 per- Rowbotham’s research note to cli- rationalization. On a quarter-to-quarter basis, deal vol- cent of North American M&A activity ents was as much a vote of confidence in “We believe that, as department store umes have remained steady through and 41.8 percent of European trans- midtier department stores — with Macy’s fundamentals improve and [Jones’] compa- 2009, suggesting the number of M&A actions from 2003 to 2007, compared Inc., J.C. Penney Co. Inc. and Kohl’s Corp. ny-specific initiatives take hold, estimates transactions may have bottomed out, with 37.1 percent and 34.9 percent, mentioned by name — as in Jones’ abil- will move higher, particularly during [the Mergermarket said. respectively, from 2008 to the first ity to ramp up its earnings in the second second half], boosting the shares,” he said. Consumer category deals, including half of 2009. This segment continues half. He wrote that he expects midtier With investors antsy about the size and those for retailers, accounted for 14.4 per- to account for more than 55 percent players to experience an “earlier recov- timing of a recovery, the S&P Retail Index cent of transactions during the first half, of overall M&A activity in the Asia- ery” than their high-end counterparts, fell 2.1 percent Tuesday to 304.23. but only 5.6 percent based on value. Pacific region. characterized by “‘less negative’ comp — Arnold J. Karr The biggest slump was in the upper Large private equity deal flow re- end of the midmarket level, or deals mains nonexistent in 2009. between $250 million and $500 million. Mergermarket also noted an increase In that category, total global deal vol- in insolvency transactions. A total of Honduran Execs Reassure Apparel Makers ume was down 64.6 percent from the 223 insolvency transactions have been WASHINGTON — Honduran apparel indus- Honduras and the ports are functioning first half of last year, as the total global announced globally for the first half of try executives arrived here Tuesday to normally, he said. U.S. companies that man- value of the transactions fell 67 percent. 2009, with just over half, or 112, in the tell their U.S. customers that it’s business ufacture in the Central American country European activity levels in the midmar- second quarter. That’s 27.3 percent high- as usual in the apparel sector. said they continued to monitor the situation ket tier were particularly low, with de- er than the last peak of 88 deals in the The executives were part of a delega- but that no disruptions had been reported. creases of 67.4 percent in volume and second quarter of 2004. tion that included Honduran politicians, The apparel executives in the delega- 70.2 percent in value. — Vicki M. Young judicial figures and diplomats. Honduran tion plan to meet with representatives of president Manuel Zelaya was removed from the National Retail Federation and mem- office and exiled on June 28 in what most bers of Congress, Facusse said. There are experts consider a military coup. However, no meetings scheduled with administra- Jack Victor Acquires Riviera Brand the delegation characterized it as lawful. tion officials or trade officials. Tailored clothing brand Jack for us to acquire a well-regarded, qual- “All apparel and textile manufactur- Honduras is the fourth largest ap- Victor has purchased certain assets, ity trouser brand, which has excellent ing plants are working normally,” Daniel parel supplier to the U.S. According to inventory and trademarks of fellow potential for growth,” said Alan Victor, Facusse, president of the Honduran the Commerce Department’s Office of Canadian resource Riviera Inc., a president of Jack Victor. Apparel Manufacturers Association, said Textiles & Apparel, Honduras shipped better trouser maker. Terms were not Two key Riviera executives will join at a news conference. $603 million of apparel to the U.S. in the disclosed. Jack Victor: Franklyn Price as vice pres- Despite continued unrest, there have first four months of the year. Under the agreement, Jack ident of trouser merchandising, and been no delays of shipments into or out of — Liza Casabona Victor will absorb the 90-year- Dino Di Girolamo, vice president old company’s three labels: of trouser sales. They will work Riviera Sport, a weekend- to develop the Riviera brand as IN BRIEF friendly line that retails a trouser resource for specialty • LOHAN TANNING LAWSUIT: Lindsay Lohan and her business partners have been accused between $150 and $175; the and department stores. of stealing the formula for Sevin Nyne Tanning Mist. In a complaint filed in federal sartorial Riviera Black col- WwD Jack Victor will continue to court in Tampa, Fla., inventor Jennifer Sunday said she pitched the idea to Lohan and lection that includes the make and sell its eponymous the partners this year, the parties entered into a confidentiality agreement and were brand’s toniest fabrics and Men’s trouser collection, but Di Girolamo on the verge of a deal but could not agree on final terms. Sunday alleged that the final sells for more than $200, and the will now direct that business as well. product contains “exactly the same or nearly identical ingredients” as her creation Riviera Blue label, which is priced at Riviera will primarily be sold through a and that Lohan has publicly taken credit for the formula. A representative for Sevin less than $200. separate sales force. Nyne said the company had no comment. Lohan launched the product this spring The first Riviera goods made and Come August, all Riviera production at Sephora with the help of her personal tanning guru, Lorit Simon, and other part- sold by Jack Victor will hit stores for will be moved to the Jack Victor trouser ners in Lorit LLC, the spray’s parent company. Sunday, who operates as White Wave spring 2010. The transaction confirms a facility in Montreal, where the company International Labs Inc., is suing for breach of contract, theft of trade secrets and con- report in WWD on May 21. also produces its tailored clothing. spiracy, among other counts. She is seeking an injunction and unspecified damages. “This was a wonderful opportunity — Brenner Thomas

10 Best Performers 10 Worst Performers

DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt DAILY COMPANIES P/E Volume Amt High Low Last %Change High Low Last %Change

0.19 0.12 Cygne Designs (CYDS) - 39417 0.19 +45.31 0.53 0.42 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) - 48314 0.42 -28.21

21.09 19.80 Orchids Paper (TIS) 17.8 45441 20.98 +4.95 0.19 0.17 NexCen (NEXC) - 22832 0.17 -16.50

3.40 3.16 CCA (CAW) 18.2 23500 3.23 +4.19 2.11 2.11 Tandy Brands (TBAC) - 100 2.11 -15.87

14.11 13.60 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 13.5 1025694 14.04 +4.00 17.58 15.80 Macerich (MAC) 13.0 3318046 15.87 -9.31

8.52 7.78 Stein Mart (SMRT) - 455044 8.16 +3.55 5.32 4.63 CBL (CBL) 63.6 3037928 4.64 -8.84

17.26 16.44 PriceSmart (PSMT) 10.6 123355 16.87 +2.43 5.05 4.58 Developers Diversified (DDR) - 3311496 4.58 -8.03

26.14 25.25 Children’s Place (PLCE) 8.5 1704741 25.32 +1.85 5.08 4.63 Revlon (REV) 3.0 316248 4.68 -7.69

17.87 15.95 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 74.8 4481 16.75 +1.82 3.29 3.00 New York & Co. (NWY) - 324164 3.00 -7.69

3.23 2.96 American Apparel (APP) 63.0 195729 3.20 +1.59 4.74 4.30 Talbots (TLB) - 1051114 4.32 -7.30

10.24 9.64 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 4742220 9.68 +1.57 1.81 1.63 Casual Male (CMRG) - 198739 1.67 -6.70

* Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. WWD, WEDNESDAY, JULY 8, 2009 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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ACCESSORY JOBS 2009!! Acct Exec/Men’s Belts-Dept Store Exp!!! PRODUCTION COORD Sales-Costume Jewelry/Hair Access-Exp!!! Major better women’s sportswear mfr ACCESSORY EXECUTIVES, INC seeks exp’d coordinator. Must possess Call about other openings@ (212)213-6386 prior import private label exp. Duties Email to: [email protected] include liaison w/overseas factories, Account Executive managing T&A & all aspects of pro- OFFICE ASSISTANT duction & quality issues. Must have Dynamic eyewear co seeks an energetic Account Exec to Sportswear company in NY requires excellent communication & computer drive existing & develop new business(es) for its Private Label office assistant. Fluency in English skills. Pls send resume & salary history to: langauge a must. Computer (MS Word, [email protected] Division. Ideal candidate will have a strong sense of fashion Excel) a must. Knowledge of garments and trend, and will assist with the development of our prod- preferred. Capable of multitasking. uct collection. Some overseas travel may be required. Email: [email protected] Candidate should be self-motivated, highly organized, and Fax:212-398-2579 have a demonstrated success in sales. Relationships with PROD’N MGR $90-100K SALES EXECUTIVE department, mid-tier or specialty stores preferred. We offer NYC based Importer of all size kids appa- Childrenswear. Wal-Mart exp a Must. rel seeking an experienced and energetic a competitive compensation package that includes medical [email protected] 212-947-3400 sales executive. Must have strong est’d and dental benefits. Our corporate office is located in New contacts with dept, discount and mass York, however we require the ideal candidate to reside in PRODUCT DEVELOP- accounts. Please email or fax resume to: California. Please send resume with salary history and MENT & SOURCING [email protected] / 212-967-7999 requirement to: [email protected] COORDINATOR To follow the product from inception, including fabric & trim development and proto sampling, to final approval SENIOR ARTIST for multiple lines. Must have 5-7 years Childrenswear Co. has immed. opening of experience in a product for a head artist who has min. 10yrs development/sourcing. JOB SKILLS: exp. The candidate must be current to Follow up on all developments and up- reflect today’s trends for the mass and Showroom/Loft Display Space date development tracking chart. Ne- mid-tier markets. They should also gotiate prices with overseas offices. have exp. in creating relevant graphic Management and communication art, knowl. of the latest screen techniques, 1100 Square Feet skills to work effectively with design- capable of designing trend right prints CEO ers and vendors. and strong skill for color usage. 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Experience in a Junior Clothing company is seeking an experienced, men’s and women’s would professional, detail-oriented individual to fill in the position of: be preferred. Strong relation- IN-HOUSE SALESPERSON ships with key specialty Call 800-289-0273 (NEW YORK SHOWROOM) stores & majors are an asset. That will be responsible in handling some of our existing Individual should be willing house accounts as well as expand our customer base. to travel, self-motivated, ana- Candidate must also have a fashion sense and understanding lytical, organized, and detail Subscribe now to of the current junior market and an excellent communication oriented. WWD and PATTERNS, SAMPLES, PATTERN/SAMPLES and influencing skills. Please fax resume to: Garment center location. Professional Email resume to: [email protected] Human Resources at: PRODUCTIONS /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. WWD.COM All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. (310) 733-2172 Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 Call Sherry 212-719-0622. SALES SALES/MKTG/PR or email resume to: PATTERNS, SAMPLES, FAITH CONNEXION seeking Sales- [email protected] Mighty Fine seeking account executive person, Marketing and PR associates. PRODUCTIONS to join our NY office. Must have 3-5 Sales candidate must have knowledge, years experience with department & exp & relationships with specialty Full service shop to the trade. specialty chain stores. Buyer experience Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. shops or strong account list. Benefits, a plus. All candidates send resume w/ sal- salary commensurate w/exp. Email ary history to: [email protected] resume to: [email protected] SALESPERSON Missy importer in cut n sewn knit sets & items, seeks salesperson with expe- INTRODUCING rience and contacts/relationships with discount stores and chains. please e-mail your resume to: [email protected]

Urban Sales Manager SEEKING POSITION Premier Accessories Company seeks Global Sourcing & Prod Man Urban Sales Manager. Must have exp Successful Ladies & Kids Sptw’r Prod WWDCAREERS.COM with Urban brands such as Roca Wear, Exec seeks change. Team Leader & An exclusive new careers Sean Jean, etc. Excellent comm. and Money Maker for all tiers. Creative negotiating skills. Great Benefits & Problem Solver. Knows what it takes channel on WWD.COM Comp. Please send resume to: to support Mdse& Marketing. Contact: [email protected] 917 572 2383 or great [email protected] intoStep the spotlight PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI BY PHOTO

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