middle eastern special ladies’ man

Womenswear designer Elie Saab opens up about his roots in , his inspirations, and why Bruton Street was the perfect spot for a London outpost by lorna davies

You have dressed everyone from royalty to actresses and more. Do you have a particular woman in mind when designing? There isn’t one muse only; I am inspired by all types of women, regardless of their age, shape or style. However, my wife, Claudine, has always been to me a great source of inspiration.

Have the women you have previously dressed shaped the way you design? Any woman from any part of the world wants to look beautiful, elegant and feminine. My priority is to design a dress that highlights a woman’s figure at best. My style is a combination of elegant and glamorous silhouettes, the right cut and feminine details.

Your pieces are very flattering, with sleeves often incorporated in the design. Is this something you Elie Saab’s couture consciously consider? spring/summer I believe it is about my vision of women and how I see 2017 inspiration: femininity. Actually, I present what women need with “For the couture SS17, I paid the appropriate embellishment. This is actually an tribute to an Arab epoch that impression to reflect elegance and allure. left us with a priceless cultural and artistic heritage. From its You’re renowned for your spectacular gowns; do great Nile, Egypt has been a you approach ready-to-wear in the same way? source of light, inspiration and All of my designs share the same codes and DNA richness for civilizations; a of the brand. When I design, I am like an architect. guardian of Arab memory.”

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MT Jul17 35-38 Style saab.indd 35 27/06/2017 14:05 middle eastern special My fashion aesthetic leans towards very feminine, graceful silhouettes that bring out a woman’s natural beauty. I study women’s curves and I am very keen about details; my dresses have structured cuts, every centimetre matters because it can change the whole look of the dress. and ready- to-wear have a different field of expertise. The first offers unique and exclusive pieces that are hand- embroidered, while ready-to-wear offers more daywear and streamlined silhouettes.

You began designing at a very young age and taught yourself. What’s the main thing you have learned? Is there an aspect of your design you had then that you still use? I learnt patience, which helped me develop the ability to think in a more analytical way, to look into the bigger picture and to study all steps thoroughly before taking any strategic decision. My designs have evolved season after season to reach a wider clientele, but I maintained offering the same flattering product to highlight women’s beauty.

Your stores are focused on the comfortable customer experience: beautiful fabrics, taking time… How does the digital age fit into the Saab aesthetic? We have always aimed to offer the client a very special and exclusive service when entering our boutiques and this will remain our trademark. I believe that clients will always want to enter a store for choosing an evening gown to feel the experience of the brand. Yet, we developed a large range of products such as separates in ready-to-wear, accessories and perfume that can be suitable for the online market.

You opened your atelier in 1982 in Beirut. How much has the city changed since then? A lot. I opened my atelier in the midst of the war; nothing was easily accessible. Today, Beirut has regained its energy; a lot of happenings are taking place-making the city again vibrant and booming. Elie Saab

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MT Jul17 35-38 Style saab.indd 36 27/06/2017 14:05 It has always been my dream to see Beirut again the fashion hub of the Middle East, and I will never stop working on this aspect to make it happen.

How has ’s fashion/couture scene developed? Beirut has always been known to be the city of beauty and fashion and we had very good tailors sought after. Today, I feel so proud of having created a profession which didn’t exist in my country before and has opened the door for other talents to follow my footsteps. I feel a big responsibility by contributing in putting Lebanon on the international fashion map. I have also joined forces with academic leaders, the Lebanese American University and the London College of Fashion in the launch of a Bachelor Degree in . Today I am filled with joy to see the first graduates holding this world-class degree. I am also partnering with MBC on Project Runway Middle East for the second season in a row, aiming to nurture and inspire the next generation of young talents.

What are your memories of growing up there? My childhood and teenage years were tough, growing up in a war-torn country, but the strength and Elie Saab’s ready- determination of the Lebanese has also encouraged to-wear autumn/ me to pursue my dreams. We grew up in a country winter 2017/2018 where everything was constantly destroyed but this inspiration: hasn’t prevented Beirut from remaining the rival of “For the RTW AW 2017/2018, European capitals. It is translated by the strong will it was inspired by one of ballet’s of the Lebanese and their high perseverance to always most iconic scores, Giselle, maintain the best despite all the difficulties they might with its tale of human love face. This has reinforced my conviction over the years crossing into the supernatural that nothing could stop me from my destiny. realm; a seasonal return to dark romanticism.” How important has your heritage and upbringing been in setting your path? Lebanon is not only the country where I was born and where I grew up, but also the launchpad for my career. I have been working for over 30 years and many of my employees have been by my side since the first day. Their combined savoir faire is priceless. I have a responsibility towards them and towards my country to reflect a positive image. I am very proud to represent my country as well as the region in both a creative and business sense. The journey was challenging and I am grateful to the people who believed in my work. Lebanon’s richness of culture has also been a great source of inspiration for me.

What do you do to relax? Spending as much time as possible with my family is my best way to unwind.

You opened your store on Bruton Street last year. Why did you feel 2016 was the right time to open in London? We always wanted to reinforce our growing presence in London and we had been looking for a strategic location for the past two years. The four-storey building in Bruton Street represents the perfect setting for the brand universe.

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How are the bridal collections approached in comparison to haute couture and ready-to- wear? “Bridal gowns are worn to the most special occasion in a woman’s life, and I have always enjoyed sharing this unforgettable moment with the bride- to-be. We aim to be closer to all brides who aspire to wear ELIE SAAB gowns. Since its launch a year ago, the bridal collection continues its ready-to-wear interpretation for the contemporary bride as a compliment to the House’s established haute couture and ready-to- wear collections.”

What can people expect at the store? A unique and exclusive experience of the full range of the brand’s creations and services: ELIE SAAB ready-to-wear, accessories, bridal and fragrances, and a dedicated floor to the Haute Couture Salon.

What do you like about Mayfair? Mayfair is one of the most prestigious districts in London that houses as well important galleries. It is the ideal neighbourhood to live in and with this four- storey building in this area, it is a perfect setup. We are also considering another flagship store in a retail district such as Knightsbridge.

When you’re in London, where do you like to go? London is a city that fascinates me. It is very inspiring from the artistic and cultural perspectives and very rich and diverse on the human side. When I am not in the store for appointments, I like to visit the latest museums, attend different shows in theatres and discover special dining places.

What’s the best piece of advice you can give young designers in Lebanon or elsewhere? I encourage everyone with talent to pursue a career in fashion as it can be a great one, but requires a lot of hard work and perseverance, and a lot of patience. What makes the difference is the identity you create for yourself, backed up with talent and clear vision.

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