North Nibley with My Partner, Dave and Our Two Year Old Daughter, Emily

On The Edge Issue 264

Wood anemone, aquilegia, wild garlic, celandine, bluebell, cowslip, Hart’s-tongue fern, yellow archangel, germander speedwell,

New Life, Peace, Hope

dogwood pyramidal orchid carpet bugle, bittersweet nightshade, smooth hawksbeard, dewberry, common spotted orchid, dewberry, bugle, bittersweet nightshade, smooth hawksbeard, carpet guelder rose, Herb Robert, bitterwintercress, red campion, woodruff, JULY 2020 My thoughts through Lockdown 2020. rain and the intense heat of this May in A message and photos from Eliz Miller 2020. But where there is death, there is also life...a new life emerges to give us HOPE for How life has changed these last few months! the future, and peace with creation. Take Together with the tragedies, hardships and Time… isolation, those of us not on ‘the front line’ TIME is a treasure…… have had much time to reflect and ponder. It comes and goes but is ALWAYS there My daily early routine of swimming came Too fast...too slow….but never ends to an abrupt end, so I decided to walk every TIME is now….don’t wait.. . day instead. Although traffic was less in TAKE TIME volume at first, sadly I was still awakened ∗ To LISTEN (not just to hear) to sounds daily by the speed of vehicles through the village. However, unperturbed, I have made both loud and soft ∗ To SMELL — the strong and the mild my way daily towards Wood Lane and ∗ within a few yards I enter a different world To TASTE — the sweet and the sour …..a symphonic sound of birdsong and the ∗ To SEE (not just a fleeting glance) - the shafts of light from the rising sun through beauty of all nature & people, both in the big the trees. All my senses become alive, and & the minute over the weeks I have experienced such joy in ∗ To TOUCH & Feel — to appreciate our closely seeing and listening to all aspects of amazing world around us, both in the nature and creation. In early April the warm & cold, the dry & wet, and in the woods almost looked dead, with broken wind & stillness branches everywhere, and the mornings were ∗ To PAUSE & think — of memories — of cold, but nevertheless new life was loss and joy beginning. Journeying through spring, I Above all take TIME have witnessed such an abundance of Þ To breathe species of flora, birds and animals….from Þ To rest the minute to the grand, and too many to Þ To ‘BE’ ...still and at peace mention here. So the dark somewhat muddy TIME is NOW — a Treasure — always there ground gave way to new growth and to a TIME is precious — share it and LOVE one variety of lush green foliage, especially in another all the trees. But the ground, and especially Embrace this moment of TIME before it is the grass, is again brown through lack of too late…..TAKE TIME!

Hello from Mandy! For those in the village who don't already know me, my name is Mandy and I live in North Nibley with my partner, Dave and our two year old daughter, Emily. I've lived in North Nibley for over 6 years. I may have served you at one point at the New Inn, or may have met you through North Nibley Ironing Service. Whether you know me already or not, please do come and say hello if you see me around, I love a chat and would like to see how I can support you as your Parish Clerk. (Report p3 opposite) 2 Parish Council Matters ….. what was discussed?

This month the Council only received one planning application for comment. Hello! I'm delighted to be writing my first, I hope of many inserts, into On The Edge, as your new Parish Clerk. Your Parish Council work hard to provide This month, due to the Covid precautions, your Council met a representative view in the comments it via a video chat on Zoom. This is outside the comfort zone sends to Stroud Planning Authority. But it of some of your Councillors, but they did well given the fact cannot know how everyone feels about that you simply cannot replace the atmosphere of a face to those developments in your locality. So if face meeting. you are aware of planning applications nearby, you too can send This was the first meeting I have ever attended, and one of the many your comments directly to things I learned, was that there is a lack of Parishioner involvement. As www.stroud.gov.uk/planning. It's worth a member of the North Nibley Community Facebook page, I regularly noting that the Parish Council feedback see passionate posts about village matters, but actual support and counts as one comment, regardless of comment at the meeting would hold a lot more weight. Please consider how many parishioners have put that attending our next Parish Council Meeting via Zoom if you are able, comment to us. If you want to be heard either just to observe, or to share what's on your mind. and counted then contacting the planning Zoom invite details will be posted on the Parish Council website and department individually is the only way. Facebook page.

* A VACANCY * The Councillors also talked rubbish...the A number of concerns were raised at this FOR A NEW problem we are having with it, that is. It month’s meeting. COUNCILLOR is so heartbreaking that our beautiful In particular, Following the knoll and quarry is being subject to the problems caused recent resignation anti social and irresponsible actions/ of Councillor Dan behaviour of people littering. We are by parking along Roberts, there is a Wotton Road, by very grateful to some of our parishioners vacancy for a who have voluntarily collected other's visitors to the Knoll. councillor during Although we are all waste to keep our wildlife safe and our the period to May home beautiful. The council used to the lay-by 2021. Details of by the cemetery the vacancy have are looking into other ways being filled with cars and vans, recently, vehicles been posted onto to help on this matter and have also been parked on the Knoll side of the road. the Council have already arranged for This has created dangerous conditions for all road website and on more frequent collections of users. The Parish Council has written to the police to our village notice the bin at the bottom of seek their support on this matter. We have also been boards. Wood Lane. in contact with the County Highways authority, seeking advice on what they can do. Importantly, the Council wished to recognise the excellent On the subject of vehicles, the matter of speeding work carried out by Jean Palmer, our volunteer Burial Clerk. through North Nibley was revisited. As readers of The Council are very grateful for all the work Jean does on OTE will be aware, the Parish Council have plans to our behalf to keep North Nibley Cemetery in good order. install speed One final note. Have you seen the amazing work being cameras on the done by Nick Riddiford to organise a new play area in main road through North Nibley? This will be such a wonderful addition to the the Village. village and any support you can offer will be greatly However, all such appreciated. You can see full details for the project on the activities in Just Giving Page. https://www.justgiving.com/crowdfunding/ Gloucestershire north-nibley-play-area?utm_id=1&utm_term=kWG5xx8nr have currently The next meeting of the Council is on Monday 6 July, via been put on hold Zoom. - I hope to see you there. by County Highways and our plans cannot yet be http://www.northnibleyparishcouncil.org.uk implemented. Once “lockdown” rules permit we will https://www.facebook.com/ be reinstating our Community Speedwatch activities. 3 northnibleyparishcouncil LOCKDOWN LESSONS NORTH NIBLEY PRE-SCHOOL With the partial easing of the school lockdown, the staff have had to rise (yet again) to North Nibley Pre-School is unfamiliar challenges. This time the challenge up and running for three is to teach purposefully those small groups now days a week. Some of our in school, whilst somehow maintaining the parents have decided that, momentum we’d established with our online for now, they feel it’s best teaching and learning. No mean feat, especially to keep their little ones at home, and as a when the guidance on safety, PPE, welfare and logistics is issued committee we want to minimise risks for belatedly, and constantly revised in the light of emerging patterns staff and children. I think across the nation and priorities. many parents are feeling the same and for Around a quarter of the school are ‘back’ and I want to pay tribute some it was real turmoil to decide if to to the staff and families who have taken the decision to return. At send their child back to a setting or not. the same time, I need to recognise the sincerity of those who have Pre-Schools, nurseries and schools are all wrestled with the decision to return and have decided ‘not yet’. feeling the pressure to open but have to There will inevitably be a knock-on effect on pupil progress, so I’m follow all the government guidelines. Of sure the decision was not an easy one. We have all been in two course, we all want to do this to ensure minds and, for many, that process of ‘wrestling’ with conflicting that this ghastly coronavirus leaves as soon priorities continues to be a day-to-day reality. At a time of national as possible but it has proved challenging uncertainty, we all step into the future with both trepidation and with many new recommendations and hope in our hearts. polices, and ongoing Zoom calls and e-mails to make sure we get it right. To say to Maintaining any sense of ‘travelling together’ has been hard. Given parents that they aren’t able to come in the variety of backgrounds from which our pupils hail, there have and settle their child is hard, as this is not been so many factors to consider when planning our work: financially how we usually work, but our children have advantaged, and no-so; geographically isolated or closer-knit; IT amazed us with how well they have proficient or Wi-Fi-deficient; time-poor or ‘furloughed’, all shades of adapted to this new routine. They have all engagement are represented. From those who ‘can and do’, through come in with lovely smiley happy faces. So ‘can’t but want to’, or ‘can but won’t’, to those who can’t and children, Mums & Dads, we thank you. We won’t’, togetherness has been a challenge. know it can be hard. We would also like to For me, the overriding focus has been the steps I can take to say a massive thank you to the village hall preserve that sense of ‘community’ on which North Nibley C of E committee who have been so incredibly Primary School prided itself. Daily updates, family quizzes, songs, supportive. The regular e-mails and chats competitions, videos and personal phone calls have helped, but I about cleaning regimes and other issues think my most significant contribution has been the assemblies. were new to us all but, everything has run ‘Collective Worship’ has continued in an unbroken run from Day 1, like clock work. with contributions from the established and now ‘cherished’ Open I don’t think anyone of us quite knows what The Book team taking us through the events of the first Easter and the future holds, and if life will ever be other lessons from the new testament. Pupils have shared their quite as it was, but we truly hope some ‘lockdown learning’ online and we showcase a selection every Friday. normality returns. Pre-school is making Every child has had something celebrated. We have collated the plans for September 2020 as we remain best wishes of the friends in order to share with those who had positive that the nation can work together birthdays. Every child, I believe, needs to feel a sense of connection in combating this virus. We have places with their school and classmates, in lockdown more than ever. available for September and we welcome Of course, however effective those steps have been, nothing beats children from Nibley and local areas. the real thing. By the time you read this, we may have learnt more Follow us on Facebook or take a look at our about wider opening for pupils in Years 2, 3, 4 and 5. Certainly, I website. We cannot currently show anyone long for the time when I say “Good morning, EVERYBODY” and around our setting but we can still talk. EVERYBODY, in unison, responds. More than words, this is an Thank goodness for video calls! Take Care expression of community, and it is at the heart of what we do. Lovely Nibley Folk. Paul Batchelor, Head Teacher Stay safe, stay positive. Julie Dyer, e-Mail: [email protected] Chairperson

4 COTSWOLD BOOK ROOM RE-OPENS Say hello to Cathy and Gideon who have big plans to re-open the Cotswold Book Room in Wotton-u-Edge and turn it into the kind of bookshop that ‘compliments the high street’ and encourages people to ‘linger and enjoy.’ Whilst neither of them have any prior retail experience (he’s a nuclear engineer and she’s a nurse) it’s clear that they have thought long and hard about this new enterprise, and their enthusiasm for books and book shops shines through. As Cathy said ‘we want people to have that ‘oh lovely’ feeling as they walk through the door. Those of you who www.cotswoldbookroom.co.uk remember Ottakar’s and Border Books will know that feeling exactly. They took over the Book Room just 4 weeks before lockdown and whilst that has necessitated some revision of their timescales, it has also allowed them to turn the previously compact interior into something altogether lighter and more welcoming. Beautiful wooden book shelves adorn the walls, and the three small rooms of the old shop have been re-organised to provide open space and seating to encourage people to browse, and to sit and read. The main space at the front will be all about fiction (with a display for featured books), the middle section will cater to the gardening, travel, hobbies and other non-fiction needs of the town, and the rear will be the children’s book room. But it won’t just be a book shop. Cathy and Gideon want to use the open space they’ve created to provide a venue for book groups and writing groups to meet, to host author events, and perhaps run story telling sessions for children in the back room. They are keen to engage with people to see how the space might be used sympathetically and, whilst they were at pains to point out that they have no intention of becoming a cafe, there will be a tea and coffee station for people who want to linger over their choice of book, and for groups who use the space for events. The Book Room itself may not open until later in the year, when the COVID restrictions have been lifted sufficiently to make visiting a bookshop a pleasurable experience again, but they are already trading via their e-mail address and web-site (see picture) and their suppliers can do over-night delivery where needed. On-line shopping may be convenient but having a real book room, somewhere you can look through a book and talk to people who love books before you buy, is much more pleasurable. Keep an eye on the shop window for more news and the opening date.

Upright Piano in need of a Home: I have an old piano that no-one plays anymore. It needs re-tuning, but it was a good piano once. If anyone is interested, I would be delighted to see it go to a new home. You would need to arrange transport, but there is easy, level access from a garage. Sue Bradley-Jones (01453 543377)

Sandie Cox ARPS DPAGB has been visiting Tyndale Photography Club for many years, both as a speaker and a judge, and had been booked to judge our April competition. Whilst our meetings have been cancelled, because of Coronavirus and the lockdown, Sandie kindly agreed to judge the images at home. Sadly, the print competition was not possible, as transporting the images to her was not a necessary journey, but the digital images were emailed to her and she made notes about each entry and then emailed both those and the results back to the club competition officer. Each photograph entered into the competition had to portray the subject ‘Humour’. Here are the results and the two winning entries… DIVISION ONE 1st – George Ryske – Bathing Beauty 2nd – George Ryske – Naughty Noddy 3rd – Christine Wetton – Intrepid Photographer!

DIVISION TWO 1st – Joan Scott – There's a serious leek in the bathroom 2nd - Barry Wilson – The Piano Lesson 3rd – Stephen White – Pilots Surprise

For more information about the club and to view all winning images images visit www.tyndalephoto.org

5 The HUB: EXTENDED OPENING HOURS From Thursday 9th July we intend to increase our opening hours from 9am until 4.30pm, Thursday to Sunday. These hours will apply to the shop and the takeaway service from the café. Unfortunately it is just not possible to open the latter fully until we are allowed to sit down again together in a confined space; it simply won’t work. But many of you have supported Tarragon and been sustained by her during the past few months on a takeaway basis, so do please continue to do so until we are able to revisit the offering. She has also continued to make an amazing selection of cakes for birthdays and special orders. Our social distancing arrangements currently remain the same. Please be respectful of others’ space and be guided by our volunteers about when to enter the shop.

Thanks! We were delighted to receive a grant of £600 from Stroud District Council Covid Resilience Fund. This was in recognition of the community service provided by the hub and the village hall in procuring scarce items to keep the shop stocked, delivering orders, collecting and delivering prescriptions and the weekly lunch provision. This will help hugely to defray the petrol, printing and utility costs of the 2 organisations.

Face covering? We have some lovely, soft, reusable face coverings in the shop, made locally by Jenny Earle in aid of Marie Curie, and Sarah Lines who has kindly donated the proceeds of hers to the hub. A big thanks to both for these. Jenny is always on the lookout for suitable plain cotton material (not white) and elastic, so if you have any spare she would love to hear from you.

The Bench full of Plants: More Volunteers needed: in order to increase the hours, we could do with a few new volunteers to add to our team, so please do get in touch if you feel able Thanks so much to all those who to offer some time in what is a very enjoyable and convivial environment. Each have generously donated excess stint is only 2.5 hours long and can be regular or occasional. Training to use the plants of many shapes, sizes and simple touch screen till is offered, along with familiarisation with the other varieties. Please keep them necessary tasks and policies. coming, along with any surplus fruit We really appreciate the ongoing support of our team of volunteers who have and veg or preserves you find continued to put in the hours during difficult times. We couldn’t do this without yourself wondering what to do with. you, and hope you realise how much you are appreciated. There will be someone else who can make good use of them. Bird food range extended: we have added a good quality, wheat free birdseed to our range, and you can now buy this along with bags of sunflower hearts, peanuts, suet pellets or fat balls at ridiculously competitive prices. We also sell food for pond fish. It’s all behind the counter – take a look. Your garden friends will thank you.

Did you know we now sell ice cream and birthday cards? And stamps too! There’s always something new…

Remember to order for collection or free home delivery by 11am on Tuesdays: This ensures we can make sure we have enough of the right things in the shop and you don’t miss out. Email orders to [email protected].

Walkers Bread: Cam Family Butchers: Milk and Dairy products: Fresh Local Eggs: Prescription Delivery: Dry Cleaning: Takeaway Tea, Coffee and Cakes: Household Goods: Groceries: Sweets: Soft Drinks: Greetings Cards: Flour: Batteries, Matches, Toiletries: Books: Crisps: Bird Food: Masks, Hand Sanitizer and Paracetamol: Featured Artists and much, much more …

Contact us: Shop Landline (Thursday to Sunday 9-4.30) tel: 01453 549933 To order: [email protected] Carolyn: [email protected] tel: 01453 542494 Tarragon: [email protected] tel: 07805342196 Marjory: [email protected] tel: 01453 542511 Alison: [email protected] tel: 01453 546251 Shareholders: [email protected] tel: 01453 549016

or Instagram: north_nibley_community_hub

Website: http://northnibley.org.uk/villagehub.php/

6 Monday Lunches Now In The Evening!

Starting Monday 15th June the Monday lunch team will now be delivering an evening meal from 5:15pm. It is by popular consent that the lunches have moved to an evening slot. The 2 course meal is available to any of those in isolation or in need of a hot meal, and the opportunity to see a friendly face. The meals will be freshly made and will be delivered hot and ready to eat. Theresa, with the support of Pip (on sous chef duty) and Ben (on washing up duty) work tirelessly and willingly to produce a varied menu each week and offer this essential service to the community.

MONDAY LUNCH ISOLATION MEAL DEAL

BUY 5 MEALS AND GET 1 FREE.

£25 (£4.17 PER 2 COURSE MEAL)

You can opt out at any time and have a refund for any unused meals. The meal deal still applies if you want to pay weekly. Pay £5 every week and you’ll get the 6th meal free. If there is anyone who you think who may struggle to afford the meal, please do let us know as we are able to do the meals free of charge.

The meals are prepared in the Village Hall which is registered with Stroud Council and has a 5 star food hygiene rating.

Bookings and enquires: email [email protected] or call 546447 or 07891 232 684

Paying: By cash on delivery or by card at the hub: 01453 549933 Thursday to Sunday.

Thanks: Huge thanks to the Village Hall and The Hub for their support with these meals.

Also, to Carolyn and Lucy, Liz and Meg and Julia for all their hard work delivering meals around the village. www.northnibleychapel.org.uk Contact:s: Rosie Casken, 07977454083, [email protected] Dave Purnell 07775876738 [email protected]

Food The Associate Priest’s in the Foyer Ramblings

Hello, how are you coping with all this change in our If you are stuck, lives? The other morning I was driving my bread van help yourself to up the Broad Street in Bath, just around the corner the basic Need more to form the Abbey, when I saw a man with a sheepdog in the middle of the street. The dog was off its lead, provisions in the read? and man and dog were engaged in a game of fetch Chapel porch. A selection of with a tennis ball. How things have changed! Had it The doors are books is available occurred three months ago, the dog would have been always open. in the Chapel foyer. straight under a bus wheel, but not nowadays. Eggs are available 50p each, if you £1.40 for 6 are able to pay. We have just celebrated Trinity – Trinity is a strange one because you can’t point to an actual event which In last month’s On The Edge, describes the Trinity, nor to a passage of the Bible I wrote about the value of prayer and in the time which explains it. There is a hint to it in the last between then and now I have chapter of Matthew but it took 400 years of been reminded about this on theologians discussing it to try and sort it out. Even numerous occasions. then it’s a bit smoky. There are a number of us in Some people compare the Trinity to the fluid that no the Chapel who circulate our requests for prayer self-respecting engineer would be without: WD40, support from time to time and it is always good to which cleans, penetrates and lubricates. I believe know that others are joining their prayers with ours. that my wife overlooked my birthday this year as If you would like to post a prayer request in the she, rather bizarrely, gave me a can of WD40 as a Chapel foyer, there are pens and paper and a board gift. A few weeks later, I managed to turn this to an for you to fix it to, or, if you would prefer to keep it advantage and ordered some Oak smoked Kippers private, a locked box for you to slip it into which will without any feeling of guilt or likelihood of backlash. be opened once a week. The Trinity seeks to explain the unexplainable It is good to know we are not alone when the going is without the use of ‘Holy smoked kippers or WD40’: tough, and it is always wonderful to be able to share There is exactly one God, there are three really the things that have made us glad. Being able to pray distinct Persons - Father, Son, and Holy Spirit and specifically for someone brings privilege and blessing each of the Persons is God. for both parties and it pleases God when we bring our We are made in the likeness of God who is ‘three in cares and concern before him in this way. one’ but as we aren’t ‘three in one’ and we can’t Rosie Casken each do everything, that rather supposes that God Hand sanitizer is available beside the board. doesn’t expect us to go through life as a lot of ‘loners’ even if we are a bit cut off from friends and family at the moment! God made us to be communal, living and working and worshiping with ST MARTIN’S CHURCH others, within families and communities. Rev’d Peter Marsh, Parish Minister /Associate Priest We depend on others for support. We are stronger 01453 547521 (not after 6.00 pm, please) when we depend on others. When I go off cycling, I [email protected] am probably quicker on my own but I know that on a Churchwarden, Wynne Holcombe 01453 542091 long trip I will get further within a group because we share the problems, encourage each other and so on.

We are sad that THE CHURCH BUILDING It’s the same with Jesus. Through the Trinity we get a glimpse into the family life of God, the thing that WILL REMAIN CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER makes you strong is being completely dependent on NOTICE . We are unable to fulfil the one another! Depend on Jesus! requirements to be able to reopen, even A service is recorded by us each week and put for private prayer. The churchyard, up on St Martin’s Church web site, however, is open and provides a place for northnibleychurch.uk quiet reflection and prayer – with benches. I hope that these services may help you through Please do make use of it. these troubled times. Peter

8 Five Peaks Challenge ; Raising Funds for the Lifeboats

The RNLI (Royal National Lifeboat Institution) is still saving lives at sea, but like most other charities, is struggling for funds, as they rely entirely on public support through donations.

Your generous support for North Nibley Sea Shanty with Fish and Chips evenings has been a great source of fund-raising; one of many which will not take place this year. Each April for several years I have taken part in the Five Peaks Challenge organised by Dursley Branch of the RNLI to raise money for the lifeboats and their crews. Until 2020! Due to Covid19, the event had to be cancelled. So I have devised my own Five Peaks Challenge, which I can do starting and finishing from home. The peaks I have chosen are: Stinchcombe Hill; Breakheart Hill; Coombe Hill; Wotton Hill; Nibley Knoll. The estimated total distance is 14Km (8.8miles). This will take place in July 2020.

The Dursley and Wotton Branches of RNLI are supporting this event with advertising for sponsorship. So I am asking the readers of On The Edge to kindly donate to the RNLI, and invite friends and family to as well, as a way of showing appreciation for all our Lifeboats do. You can donate online to: Bank: Barclays — Account Name: Royal National Lifeboat Institution Sort code: 20-68-95 Account No: 93032671 Please include reference: 658865 Dursley

You can write a cheque made out to: Royal National Lifeboat Institution and send it to: D. Beer (5PC), 1 Manor Cottages, Pittcourt, North Nibley, GL11 6EB Please include reference 658865 Dursley on the back of the cheque.

There will be a collecting box at The Hub (North Nibley Village Shop) for cash (or cheques if you don’t want to post them). If you are a UK Tax Payer and would like to Gift Aid your donation, please fill in one of the forms by the collecting box and put it in the box (it does not have to be physically attached to your donation); RNLI will benefit a further 25% from gift aided donations. In anticipation of your generous support, Thank you Dave Beer

Tyndale Monument Vandalised The swing gate was used as battering ram on the monument door, two floodlights were smashed. Many hundreds of pounds worth of damage was caused.

The Trustees have opened a Just Giving page to raise £4000 towards the repairs and on-going maintenance. Please help if you can. Donations may be left at The Hub or with any Trustee ([email protected]).

If you can help solve this mindless crime please contact the police or OTE.

Welcome to North Nibley Congratulations to Lydia (nee Mobile Post Office David and Sara Fox with Morrison) and Kieran Bird on Every Friday 3.15pm to 4.15pm Grace and Joe, recently moved the birth of their son Benjamin Outside the Village Hall into Pittcourt. Alastair

On The Edge - Editors & Contact Details

Please note that the DEADLINE for ALL SUBMISSIONS for the Aug/Sep 2020 issue is 10th July 2020 to our email address: [email protected]

Dave Beer 546251 Sue Devine 543748 Dave Earle 546659 Alison Edwards 543441 Di Hay 544965 Alan Shrimpton 544409 If any other publication wishes to use items from this newsletter, kindly contact an editor.

COLE BUILDERS JAMES PITT

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Building, Repairs CLINIC SERVICES PAINTING AND DECORATING GEORGE HARPER & RYAN BRANCO and All your needs for George Mobile: 07940087822 Masonry Ryan Mobile: 07554665026 RICHARD WILLEY healthy teeth [email protected] & gums NPCT Qualified – Fully Insured 07776016159 Landscapes Friendly Service All enquires & 01453 541932 *Tree Surgery *Fire Wood appointments Gardening Services Tel: 01453 546557 *Hedges *Soft Landscaping [email protected] Call: 01453 844428 10 It’s 8.00 am, the outside Crossing the Red Centre in Luxury 4kilometres may not sound temperature is 30 oC and much, but at well over 40 oC climbing, humidity over 90%. We are in the River with its wildlife, geology and it is enough. Most passengers choose less lobby of our waterfront hotel in Darwin, indigenous rock art; evidence of the energetic tours of the delights of Alice waiting for transfer to Berrimah out-of-town existence of the Jawoyn culture in the area Springs. railway station. The transfer bus arrives, air- during the last Ice Age. Anyone who shares my preconception of the conditioned, thankfully. Half an hour later we Back on board the Ghan, we shower and “Red Centre” of Australia as being pull in to the station, and there it is; two huge change for dinner, where sunset and twilight monotonous lifeless desert would have a diesel engines at the head of 37 coaches, provide a background for more excellent pleasant surprise. Heading South from Alice, stretching nearly 1kilometre into the heat fayre and good company—this time a the scenery is remarkably varied, haze. The Ghan; one of the world’s Gloucestershire couple, from Lechlade. punctuating the expected flat red desert with legendary trains. Mini-buses, also air- rocky outcrops, tree-lined creeks, and dense conditioned, save us the long walk to find Meanwhile, our wood-panelled cabin has our allocated been converted from day to night Queen Adelaide Restaurant carriage, while Nitmiluk Gorge use by the cabin crew. Cleaned, our heavy bags tidied, table folded away, and are transported bunks prepared. And so we retire to another after a “busy” day. carriage; we h a v e b e e n advised to carry woodland. Wildlife, mainly ’roos, cattle just essentials for the journey. The and numerous birds, is abundant. journey will take 2 days. This evening’s dinner menu We are shown to our en-suite cabin features—you guessed it—kangaroo by Wednesday, our carriage steaks. stewardess (I refrain from asking if she has 6 En-suite 2 berth Cabin Red Centre from The Ghan similarly-named siblings). At 10.00, exactly on BANG!! time, the train It’s dark, we’ve hit something; my pulls out on the torch, book and watch land on my start of its head from the shelf above and I 2979kilometres nearly roll off the top bunk. (Note to (1851miles) to Adelaide. Having settled in to self: remember to put the safety rail up in A fine sunrise greets us while we enjoy a our comfortable cabin, we are invited to the future.) The train stops. And remains bar for morning coffee and, this being cup of tea brought to our cabin. We are now stopped. Sounds of people moving about south of Port Augusta, watching the sun Australia, cakes. Meeting and chatting to outside, doors opening and closing, voices other passengers is a great part of the break up sea mist over Spencer Gulf. Over a in the dark. After an hour or so, we move on, leisurely breakfast we watch the scenery experience, so coffee merges seamlessly stopping again later that night for an hour or change again to vast fields of grain, into pre-lunch drinks, and then to lunch in more at a station—possibly Tennants Creek. the beautifully appointed Queen Adelaide pastureland , and delightful small towns with We discover over breakfast that a kangaroo low-roofed houses and floral gardens. As we restaurant car. Sharing a table with another hit the train. Sounds improbable, but having couple, also “Poms”, we are treated to a approach our destination, the views open up heard the horns blast it waited for the over Gulf St Vincent, before suburbia standard of food, wine and service which engines to pass, then jumped at the side of swallows us up. The train stops. It is too would be worthy of many a top restaurant. the train. Apparently thousands of years of And all the while, the stunning scenery is long to fit the platforms at Adelaide Station, isolated evolution have not given ‘roos “road so it has to be split, and haul into two rolling by, changing sometimes subtly, sense”. The train had stopped because the occasionally dramatically. platforms. Ten minutes later, we’re rolling emergency brakes applied. It then had to be again, and after crossing the continent in 54 Suitably fed, watered and relaxed, we inspected for damage. hours, The Ghan arrives in Adelaide exactly disembark the train at Katherine Station, Into Alice Springs and more excursions to on time. where with classic Australian efficiency, a various places. I choose “Simpson’s Gap”, a Dave and Alison Beer rank of coaches waits to take us on a geological fault in the cliffs of the West selection of excursions. Nitmiluk Gorge is a MacDonnell Ranges, as it involves a walk. favourite, with boat cruises on the Katherine