Inside the brochure:

3 introduction 56 food and drink when you know you are for moments all too short in the right place 62 shopping and 6 about entertainment fun facts and figures a piece of zagreb to take back home 8 a look back in time stories from zagreb’s past 68 zagreb for children a city of many possibilities 14 zagreb top 10 72 zagreb in 24 hours

18 green zagreb 76 zagreb in 72 hours great things in zagreb come naturally 82 zagreb surroundings beautiful memories 28 hidden zagreb moments away a slow-burn city 91 accommodation 36 culture and arts more than just a bed what makes life for the night more beautiful? 92 useful information 44 zagreb events something for everyone, every day of the week

useful information See page 92 for a list of useful information, such as telepho- ne numbers and addresses of tourist information centres.

www.infozagreb.hr introduction find out more distances by land Zagreb – / 375 km Zagreb – Budapest / 345 km When you know Zagreb – Venice / 380 km Zagreb – Belgrade / 395 km Zagreb – / 140 km you are in the Zagreb – Split / 410 km right place

Zagreb is a city with many faces. There is the word-of-mouth Zagreb we just heard about from a friend, the Zagreb in the photos we saw online, or the Zagreb we are uncovering in this brochure.

Everyone has their own experience of Zagreb. Some see it as a vibrant capital and others as a city built on a human scale. People love Zagreb for being green and close to nature, as well as for being a metropolitan city full of opportunities. Zagreb embraces all of these identities.

In one moment it acts like a rather formal institutional capital, only to loosen up in the next and charm you with its laid-back flair. Some of its streets never stop buzzing with metropolitan zest. But turn a corner and you will find yourself in a bucolic alleyway, where location the only sound is that of birds chirping away. The city of Zagreb is located in northwestern . It Zagreb’s street plan betrays the city’s multiple identities. stretches from the southern The historic centre nestles among hilly meandering slopes of Mount streets that blend in with the surrounding greenery. The right across the river . newer parts of the city are more spacious, with broad avenues ideally suited to the flatlands beside the river.

Zagreb is unfussy about where in the world it is. The map shows it rooted well inland, but the Mediterranean breeze

2 ZAGREB INTRODUCTION 3 the famous zagreb belvedere is never far away, especially in the way the city lives. Zagreb's longest street starts at Ban Jelačić Zagreb people are easygoing and love spending Square with an impressive high-rise building time with friends, especially outdoors and over built in 1959. It is known as the Ilica skyscraper food. The southern mindset is so strong in Zagreb or simply "the skyscraper on the square". that even in the winter months people flock to café Designed by architects Josip Hitil, Slobodan and restaurant terraces. Nothing really puts a stop Jovičić and Ivan Žuljević, this was Croatia's first to having fun in the city's streets and squares. commercial high-rise and also the first building in this part of to feature a glass facade. This fusion of Central European and Mediterranean Today the skyscraper houses both commercial lifestyles makes Zagreb a metropolis where everything and residential spaces, including the spectacu- is just around the corner. It’s in an urban patchwork lar belvedere on the 16th floor. The view from such as this, where some areas fizzle with energy there almost covers the entire city. and others are tranquil and balmy, that everyone gets a piece for themselves. There is no one single Zagreb, and this is what makes Zagreb a singular city.

how zagreb got its name According to legend, the whole Zagreb area was suf- fering from drought. To give people and animals something to drink, an old Croatian duke plunged his sword into dry earth and saw fresh water bubble up. He called out to his soldiers: "Zagrabite!" ("Scoop up!") Then he repeated to the girl who stood close by: "Man- da dear, scoop up some water!" The spring, which still stands on the main square, got the name Manduševac afer the girl and Zagreb got its name afer the scoop of water. the main square then and now Countless layers of history and memory are woven into Zagreb's main square. In the ban josip jelačić 18th century, its oldest part Harmica was used as a toll collection point while today The 19th-century Croatian the widespread plaza, dominated by the statue of Ban Josip Jelačić (the work of Antun hero Ban (“governor”) Josip Jelačić is celebrated for abol- Dominik Fernkorn) is a popular gathering place. Between 1947 and 1990 its name was ishing serfdom and organizing changed to "Republic Square" and the Ban's statue, which originally faced north to the first parliamentary elec- symbolize his defiance against , was removed. Today, the re-erected Ban is tions. His statue is the centre- piece of Zagreb’s main square. pointing his sword in the opposite direction – towards south, the direction of Zagreb’s expansion. The square is fondly called Jelačić-plac.

4 ZAGREB INTRODUCTION 5 about zagreb zagreb museums Zagreb museums contain more than 3,6 million fun facts exhibits. and figures gas lamps the tallest Percentage of Croatia's population Gas lamps were first building introduced in Zagreb in living in Zagreb 1863. Today, more than th 200 of them are still in 16 meridian use. A lamp lighter lights them in the evening and dims them in the morning. Zagreb is one of only three Zagreb According the 2011 European cities to have is 77m long and census, there are kept this tradition alive. slightly more than 790,000 people 46m wide. Its twin living in Zagreb. This spires are around makes up 18.5% of 108m high. Croatia's population. The plaque marking the 16th meridian, which passes through Zagreb, is on the corner of Vukovarska and Držićeva streets. It was placed there during the 1987 World Student Games. Cafés and restaurants There are around 4,500 cafés and restaurants in Zagreb. This makes a ratio of 1 café to every gric cannon 175 inhabitants.

meet me under the clock! The most popular local meeting spot is "under the clock" on the main square. In a family tradition that goes back six generations, all hotel zagreb funicular of the city’s clocks are maintained The noise generated by The Zagreb funicular is the the Grič cannon can be by the Lebarović watchmaking world's shortest cable railway firm. Zagreb’s first municipal clocks as loud as 130 decibels. esplanade used for . When it is fired at noon came from . They were later The 64-second ride covers made locally, but in a style that every day, its sound a distance of 66 meters. can even be heard resembled those from Vienna. south of the river Sava. Hotel Esplanade was built in 1925. It provided luxury lodging to Orient Express passengers on their route from Paris to Istanbul. 6 ZAGREB ABOUT ZAGREB 7 a look back in time Stories from Zagreb’s past

During renovation work (1876- 1882) initiated by architect Friedrich von Schmidt, St Mark's Church was installed with glazed roof tiles. The design also included two coats of arms – the one on the lef representing the Triune Although the Zagreb area has been inhabited find out more Kingdom of Croatia, ever since prehistoric times, the first writen and , and the one mention of the city dates back to 1094. This on the right representing was the year when the Diocese of Zagreb the city of Zagreb. was founded, and the foundations of Zagreb Unification Diocese of Gradec Cathedral were laid. Zagreb began as two of Zagreb and Kaptol setlements perched on neighbouring established hills – Gradec (today the Upper Town) and Kaptol. They were divided by a stream that ran along what is today Tkalčićeva street. Early Zagreb setlement Zagreb becomes the traces becomes a capital of around the free royal modern-day river Sava city Croatia

8 ZAGREB A LOOK BACK IN TIME 9 gradec and kaptol In 1242 King Bela IV of Hungary and Croatia proc- laimed Gradec a free royal city allowing its citizens a higher degree of autonomy, including the right to choose a mayor. In return, they delivered on the promise to fortify Gradec with walls and towers, creating an urban layout still recogniza- ble today. The 13th-century design also included several city gates, although the Stone Gate is the only one to survive into the present day. From the very beginning the main square featured St Mark's Church, even though the original was smaller than the one built in its place later on. At the peak of Otoman expansion in the late 15th and early 16th centuries Zagreb was an important line of defence. Fortified walls and towers were built around Kaptol, many of which still survive today. During the Baroque era many wooden houses were torn down and replaced with opulent palaces. Churches and monasteries sprouted up next to them. The city grew into an important mercantile and craf centre, atracting setlers from all over the Habsburg Empire. The population mushroomed and new schools and hospitals were opened, establishing Zagreb as the economic and cultural hub of Croatia. The unification of Gradec and Kaptol in 1850 served to confirm its growing status. Infrastructure developed fast: the first railway to Zagreb was opened in 1862, the city gasworks were established one year later, and by 1878 Zagreb had its own municipal water supply.

the golden bull of bela iv In 1880 Zagreb was struck by a catastrophic earthquake which destroyed much of its The Golden Bull, an edict by historic core, including . As devastating as it was, the event pushed the which King Bela IV proclaimed Gradec a free royal city, is kept in city towards unprecedented modernization. New landmark public buildings emerged protective plastic in the basement in a wave of prudent urban planning. The number of inhabitants grew (the population of the State Archives building. increased tenfold in the 19th century), and the city expanded with new neighbourhoods The document requires strictly controlled conditions: a constant sprouting up in all directions. From 1917 to 1925 several universities and colleges were temperature of 18-21 degrees established. And in 1926 Zagreb became home to the first radio station in this part of Celsius, and 45-55% humidity. Europe. Afer the Second World War, the city spread south, across the river Sava, and developed into an industrial centre that atracted even more new inhabitants. In 1991, when Croatia declared independence, Zagreb became the capital and also the largest city in the country.

10 ZAGREB A LOOK BACK IN TIME 11 St Mark's Square is the heart Zagreb is one of few cities of the Upper Town. The that developed into a modern building known as Banski metropolis while keeping its dvori, once the residen- historic core intact. The old ce of the Croatian Ban or Gradec or Grič, perched on governor, is now home to the a hill and once completely Croatian Government. On the fortified, retained many of opposite side of the square its original looks and charms is the Croatian Parliament while the modern city grew at (Hrvatski sabor). Other public its feet. This Upper Town area buildings located in nearby is the historic centre of Zagreb streets include Zagreb City and has changed very litle Council, a Greek-Catholic since the 13th century, at least Church, the Croatian Museum in terms of its general shape of Naive Art and the Museum and the layout of its streets. of Broken Relationships. Close Two of its medieval towers by is the beautiful complex have remained intact: Lotrščak of Jesuit buildings centred Tower, which defended the on St Catherine's Church. southern entrance to the city; and the Priest's Tower (Popov toranj) which provided refuge for clergymen in case of enemy atack. In 1903 a section of the Priest's Tower was used to house the new Zagreb Observatory.

zagreb city day On 30 May 1731 a great fire broke out consuming even the Stone Gate – one of the main entrances to the city. When the fire was put out a day later, a painting of Virgin Mary was found in the rubble – intact. Since then, 31 May has been celebrated as Zagreb City Day, and the Virgin Mary of the Stone Gate adopted as the patron saint of the city.

12 ZAGREB A LOOK BACK IN TIME 13 zagreb top 10

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lenuci horseshoe This remarkable 19th-century patchwork of squares and parks is home to numerous scientific and cultural institutions, and repre- sents the high point of Zagreb urban planning. More on page 22.

1 3 st mark's square 4 The square is home to the Croatian Government, Parliament and Constituti- dolac onal Court. But as graceful and stately as Zagreb's biggest and most charming mirogoj these buildings are, they take a back seat farmers' market, Dolac is a colourful More than a burial ground, this to the stunningly prety St Mark's Church, display of local fruit, vegetables and stunning is also a serene which in part dates from the mid 13th quality produce from all around oasis and an open-air sculpture park. century. More on page 9. Croatia. More on page 57. More on page 21.

14 ZAGREB ZAGREB TOP 10 15 7

the cathedral This largest sacral building in Croatia has been rebuilt many times since its inception in the 13th century. It assumed its present Neo-Gothic 8 look in the 19th century. špica ("the peak") Known as the “Špica”, the pedestrianized stretch between Ban Jelačić Square and Petar Preradović Square (also known as Flower Square) is Zagreb's celebrated cofee strip. The inviting café terraces serve as a vast open-air living room, and epitomize 5 Zagreb’s cofee-drinking culture.

funicular The world's shortest cable railway used for public transport, Zagreb’s funicular has been connecting the Upper and Lower Towns since 1890.

6 9 10 lotrščak tower Opened in 1794, Maksimir is the One of the best-preser- oldest and, according to many locals, ved parts of Zagreb’s medvednica the most beautiful of Zagreb’s parks. erstwhile fortifications, The northernmost parts of Zagreb lie It is landscaped in the English style, Lotrščak Tower also at the foot of Mount Medvednica – a with several lakes, pavilions, and the houses the Grič cannon, pristine nature park and a favourite accompanying . which is fired every day local day-trip destination. More on page 20. at noon. More on page 19.

16 ZAGREB ZAGREB TOP 10 17 green zagreb Great things in Zagreb come naturally

medvednica Visible from every corner of the city, Mount Medvednica has always shielded Zagreb's north side – either from cold winds or real enemies. Today the whole mountain is a nature park, boasting eight protected forest reserves. Because of its altitude and its numerous springs and streams, Medvednica's flora Beautifully preserved medieval and fauna are exceptionally Medvedgrad Castle sits on Mount Medvednica's southern slopes. diverse. The best example of its It was built afer the 1242 Tatar rich geological past is Veternica invasion and this strategic location today provides a spectacular view cave – one of Croatia's most Zagreb has favourable weather with plenty of over the city. Inside Medvedgrad's unique paleontological sites. At find out more fortifications there is the early Gothic a height of 1033 metres, Sljeme clear sunny days – days which are best spent in Chapel of St Philip and James as well one of the many city parks. If you are a nature as the Altar of the Homeland – a summit is a popular local monument dedicated to the soldiers hiking destination, especially lover, or simply looking for a place to relax or be who died in the Homeland War. on weekends. Marked hiking active, Zagreb parks are the best places to visit. trails criss-cross the mountain, They are spread all over the city. Some even feature with charming mountain huts open-air artwork or are themselves a work of art – serving as convenient stop- overs. They serve excellent proof that the best things in life are always free. homemade food in a cheerful atmosphere.

18 ZAGREB GREEN ZAGREB 19 mirogoj Surrounded by landscaped Maksimir stretches across 316 hectares, greenery, Zagreb's largest an area almost cemetery Mirogoj is maksimir equal in size to that of New York's also a wonderful open- This densely forested park, Central Park. air sculpture park. The landscaped in the English style, monumental, 500-metre-long is the perfect destination for Neo-Renaissance arcades, those wishing to escape the designed by Hermann urban bustle. When it opened Bollé, are one of the finest in 1794, Maksimir was the first examples of historicist public park in Southeastern architecture in Croatia. As Europe. It is named afer its a burial ground for people founder Bishop Maksimilijan of various faiths, Mirogoj Vrhovec. The park's lush is a powerful testament to woodland hides five lakes religious tolerance where the and a number of streams – a segregation of graves is strictly seting perfect for recreation forbidden. Its sculptures, and relaxation. Other highlights galleries and pavilions are include the Zagreb Zoo, organically set against the Maksimir Belvedere and the backdrop of nature, ofering Pavilion of Echoes. a unique network of walking trails.

20 ZAGREB GREEN ZAGREB 21 meteorological post In 1884 the Meteorological Post was erected at the northern entrance to Zrinjevac Park. Its vintage weather instruments are manually wound up every Monday. The tape showing humidity, pressure and temperature is also replaced weekly.

botanical garden The only park that has set opening hours is the lenuci horseshoe Botanical Garden of the Faculty of Science, at This remarkable patchwork of central squa- the far corner of the Lenuci Horseshoe. The first res and parks was named afer the great seedlings in this English-style landscaped garden 19th-century urban planner Milan Lenuci. were planted as early as 1892. The flower parterre The locals also call it the Green Horses- is laid out symmetrically, invoking the great hoe because it connects seven delightful gardens of the past. parks, including the Botanical Garden. The area features many landmark buildings housing scientific and cultural institutions, ministries, courts, museums, galleries and hotels, as well as Zagreb’s central railway station. Although the surrounding buildin- plant biodiversity gs have a formal aspect, the atmosphere The Botanical Garden in the squares and parks is much more prides itself on a collection of more than laid-back, especially in nice weather. The 5,000 plant species sun-kissed lawns are then busy with people and subspecies, 300 of enjoying a moment of peace and quiet. which are protected.

22 ZAGREB GREEN ZAGREB 23 the strossmayer promenade The first thing that comes into view afer exiting the funicular’s upper station is the romantic zagreb Strossmayer Promenade. Paid for by charitable donations in 1812, this was Zagreb's Couples visiting Zagreb should not miss the first public walkway. Close by are some of the city's best-known sights, such as the opportunity to fasten their Lotrščak Tower. “Stross” (the promenade’s nickname) also provides expansive views love lock in the Upper of the Lower Town. Croatian writer Antun Gustav Matoš loved the panorama so Town. Romance can also be kindled at one of the much that the local authorities put up a statue of the author on the very spot in 1978. lovers’ benches or by kissing under Lotrščak Tower.

ribnjak The low terrain behind Zagreb Cathedral was once home to the fishponds owned by the bis- hops of Kaptol. In 1892 this green expanse was landscaped into an English style park featuring many exotic shrubs and trees. Right in the heart of the city, Ribnjak is an ideal spot to take a antun gustav matoš break from sightseeing. The aluminium statue of this great Croatian writer was made in 1972 by sculptor Ivan Kožarić. It is a fiting tribute to a true aficionado of Zagreb.

24 ZAGREB GREEN ZAGREB 25 golf courses The broader green area surrounding Jarun also The largest park in the western boasts golf courses – a perfect activity for warm part of the city, Jarun is also spring and summer days. Aside from engaging a much-loved recreational in this noble sport, there are other opportunities zone. It began as a source of for geting together with friends and spending a construction materials for the leisurely day out. embankments built along the river Sava. But when Zagreb hosted the World Student Games in 1987, Jarun was re-purposed as a sports area complete with man-made lake, walking and cycling trails, and equipment for exercise and play. A string of bundek lakeside cafés and restaurants Stretching between two bridges provide the perfect retreat from over the river Sava – Most slobo- the urban hubbub. Jarun Lake de and Most mladosti – Bundek also hosts international rowing is a favourite recreational spot regatas. With long pebble for the people living in Novi Za- beaches fringing the lake, Jarun is greb ("New Zagreb"). The park's ofen called Zagreb's riviera. main assets are its lakes, beaches, cycling and walking trails, a mo- dern children's playground and beach volleyball and handball courts. Also rich in flora and fau- na, Bundek is a wonderful refuge from the fast-paced city.

weekend is barbecue time Weekends provide the best insights into the local way of life. Throughout Zagreb, people get together for a barbecue, a bit of entertainment and a bit of recreation.

26 ZAGREB GREEN ZAGREB 27 hidden zagreb a slow-burn city

the market on britanski trg Though Zagreb has a long tradition of markets and fairs, old-style neighbourhood marketplaces aren’t always easy to come by. However the one at Britanski trg (“”) has stood the test of Falling in love is all about coming across unexpected time. This popular antiques find out more details – that certain something that makes a market in the very centre street more appealing, a square more unique or of the city is a delight for collectors, whether amateur or a park more ravishing. No Zagreb guidebook can professional, or indeed anyone list all the small things that make visitors smile. looking to experience an Everyone is their own curator. Still, some highlights authentic local vibe. deserve a special mention for easy discovery.

28 ZAGREB HIDDEN ZAGREB 29 the chains of hms victory zagreb's oldest pharmacy The corner of Opatička and Kamenita streets First mentioned back in 1355, is marked by a unique relic – decorative chains The Black Eagle is the oldest from HMS Victory, Lord Nelson's flagship at the pharmacy in the Zagreb region. Batle of Trafalgar. The chains were allegedly It is perched at the top of acquired by Irish-born Austrian general Laval Kamenita street, opposite Nugent, who was not only a soldier but also a the Stone Gate. Countless passionate archeologist and collector. pharmacists have worked there throughout its history, but the most famous of all was Niccolò Alighieri – great grandson of the creator of the Divine Comedy, Dante Alighieri.

pimp my pump This unique project initiated by local street artists has given old Zagreb water pumps a new lease of life. Scatered around the city and nearly forgoten, many of these pumps have been imaginatively repainted and now enjoy a wholly new identity.

the zagreb solar system First there was The Grounded Sun, a spherical sculpture created by Ivan Kožarić in pluto 1972. In 2004 artist Davor Preis The furthest-flung took things to a new level planet of the Zagreb Solar System is Pluto. by seting up an installation Placed in Aleja Bologne jurjevska street cemetery entitled The Grounded Sun in the western suburbs, Unknown even to many locals, Jurjevska it is precisely 7,658.6 and Nine Perspectives. This metres away from street cemetery started as the poter's field artwork includes all the planets The Grounded Sun. in the 14th century. Back then it was also of the solar system, placed known as "The Cemetery By The Chestnut at distances that correspond Tree". As Zagreb grew in the seventeenth exactly to the scale of Kozarić’s century, more and more Upper-Town citizens original sculpture. The result is were buried here, including several eminent smart indeed: the planets of . Finally, in 1876, the cemetery was the Zagreb Solar System are ofcially closed down. The remaining graves scatered all around the city. give the place a decidedly mystical aura.

30 ZAGREB HIDDEN ZAGREB 31 botanical garden pavilion Constructed a year before the Botanical Garden ofcially opened in 1891, the garden pavilion is its biggest and most atractive feature. It originally served as the royal Austro-Hungarian pavilion during the second Economic Exhibition, afer which it was donated to the Botanical Garden. The backdrop of lush trees and eye-catching flowerbeds only adds to the pavilion's distinctive architecture – with a red-tinged wooden porch coupled with a peculiar green roof.

zagreb secret courtyards Inner courtyards, especially those in the Upper Town, make up one of Zagreb's defining features. Each is unique with wonders of all kinds – from artwork to architecture and horticulture. Some people discover a particular sense of seren- ity there, while others enjoy unravelling their gas lamps enigmatic history. A singular addition to the Upper Town's romantic ambience is the original gas-powered street lighting, with lamps installed on zagreb tunnels cast-iron pillars. There are 214 of them and they’ve been illuminating The large network of underground tunnels, the city for more than 150 years. some stretching as far as Mount Medved- Even more exceptional is the nica, remains classified information even to fact that they’re still lit manually by municipal lamp lighters – a most locals. However, Grič Tunnel, which ritual that only amplifies the recently opened to visitors, confirms that Upper Town's historic mood. there is more to the Zagreb tunnels story than meets the eye. Originally built in 1943 as a Second World War air-raid shelter, the tunnel connects Mesnička and Radićeva streets, with additional exits to Ilica and Tomićeva streets. Before becoming a tour- ist atraction, Grič Tunnel once more served its primary purpose as a shelter during the Homeland War of 1991-1995.

32 ZAGREB HIDDEN ZAGREB 33 new zagreb hrelić (jakuševac flea market) This authentically large and chaotic flea market is located some way from the city centre but is easily accessible on pub- lic transport. Hrelić is a bargain hunter’s delight no mater how litle money you’ve got. Goods on ofer range from shoes to books, tools, machinery and even cars. Haggling is a must.

mamutica The largest residential building in Croatia, railway bridge sava - the green bridge Mamutica or the “She Mammoth” was built A distinguishing green construction, the in 1974 and still remains one of the biggest in 1939 railway bridge over the river Sava is a Europe. It contains 1,169 apartments that are protected monument of culture also known home to around 5,000 people. A plethora of for the "Hendrix" grafti that first showed up a parks and green spaces nearby make living in street art few decades ago. Since then, the name of the the Mammoth prety comfortable – so the The Zagreb street art scene legendary guitarist reappeared several times, residents say. has exploded in both size and securing the bridge its iconic status with the diversity in recent years. locals. The decorative lights that were recently A number of talented local art- added give a brand new dimension to its the double slide ists and collectives are making Aside from outstanding lasting appeal. art, Zagreb’s Museum of their mark, enriching the city Contemporary Art also features with exceptional new murals a unique atraction entitled The almost on a month-by-month Double Slide. An installation by conceptual artists Carsten basis. The Dugave neighbour- Höller it functions as a proper hood in was one slide, allowing visitors to of the first to get a thorough whoosh down to the ground floor from the upper storeys. makeover. Thanks to a project entitled the Museum of Street Art, artists painted a number of walls in this residential area, transforming its visual appeal. Established before the Second World War when it was located at Savska 25, Zagreb’s Trade Fair moved across the river Sava in 1956, soon becom- ing one of the largest trade fair sites in this part of Europe. Its pavilions are still in constant use, host- ing exhibitions and trade fairs of all sorts and sizes. Events range from book fairs to interactive digital exhibitions, business expos and lifestyle fairs.

34 ZAGREB HIDDEN ZAGREB 35 culture and arts What makes life more beautiful?

museum of contemporary art Housed in an impressive building unveiled in 2009, the museum's permanent collec- tion consists of around 12,000 works by Croatian and inter- national artists, amassed from the 1950s onwards. There’s a rolling programme of events both inside and outside the Zagreb’s museums boast artworks of all museum, featuring exhibitions, find out more performance art, theatre, film ages and styles: from ancient Roman and screenings and even concerts Greek to medieval, from traditional to on the roof. contemporary, from the expert to the naive, from the brutal to the tender. On top of that, lovers of street art can enjoy a parallel world of the imagination that thrives out of doors and outside ofcial institutions.

36 ZAGREB CULTURE AND ARTS 37 archeological museum what is a mummy Quite apart from being housed Opened in 1907, the museum recounts the history of the Zagreb region in epic style doing in zagreb? It was bought by Mihael in a splendid historic palace – from prehistory right up to the present moment. The exhibition ofers an eclectic Barić during a visit to on one of Zagreb's pretiest look at Zagreb’s past, taking in political events as well as popular culture and the (1848/1849). squares, the Archeological arts. Objects are presented in a visually engaging manner, revealing the richness Museum is a must-visit of Zagreb’s history and shedding light on the everyday life of its inhabitants. atraction on account of its rare and valuable collections. Visitors will be particularly technical museum impressed by the famous Linen A must for every science and technology buf, Book of Zagreb – a strip of this museum is also the right address for eager linen inscribed with the longest learners. One of the highlights is the replica of surviving text in the ancient Nikola Tesla's laboratory, where visitors can Etruscan language. The recently enjoy daily demonstrations of his inventions. croatian museum restored Egyptian mummy is The museum also features a 300-metre-long of naïve art another of the museum's high recreation of a mine, portraying the extraction The permanent collection points. of coal and ferrous and non-ferrous metals. of this museum includes masterpieces by Croatia's greatest naïve painters and sculptors. Artwork from the renowned Hlebine School is included, alongside pieces by foreign naïve artists active in the period between the 1930s and the late 1980s.

ethnographic museum The museum's permanent Established in 1846, the museum archives, in- display boasts national cos- terprets and displays Croatian heritage from the tumes from all around Croatia, Middle Ages to the present day. alongside objects representing non-European cultures brought back to Zagreb by Croatian ex- plorers. Temporary exhibitions focus on everyday rituals in atractive and accessible ways. museum of arts and crafts Since it opened in 1880, the museum has strived to protect artisans and crafspeople from the onslaught of mass-produ- ced goods. This is the best pla- ce to explore Croatia's material culture.

38 ZAGREB CULTURE AND ARTS 39 klovićevi dvori gallery Housed in the delicate 17th- century building of a former Jesuit monastery, this gallery focuses primarily on fine arts. It is also a major go-to place for artistic and cultural events, such as high-profile exhibi- tions, workshops and lectures.

more must-see museums: art pavilion • museum of torture Originally built to serve as the Croatian – has an interesting and Pavilion at the 1896 Budapest Millennial slightly disturbing collection of Exhibition, this imposing structure torture and execution instru- hosts headline exhibitions by prominent ments from different epochs meštrović atelier international artists. One of the first • museum of illusions Work by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović is prefabricated buildings in Croatia, it is today – offers an intriguing displayed in an atractive gallery just around one of the many unmissable atractions and fun experience that the corner from St Mark's Church. This authen- along the route of Lenuci Horseshoe. engages the senses and tic space was the artist's home and studio and plays with perception today boasts numerous sculptures in marble, modern gallery • museum of mushrooms stone, wood and bronze as well as reliefs, The museum's collections include – displays a large number drawings and prints. It is an excellent intro- more than 750 paintings, scul- of fungi species cou- duction to Meštrović's rich and varied career. ptures, medals and works in new pled with interesting and media. This exceptional display educational stories contains the crème de la crème of Croatia's fine arts, from the 19th century onwards.

museum of broken relationships This formerly roving exhibition of donated objects is one of Zagreb's most popu- lar museums. It investigates failed relationships of all kinds by gathering intimate night of museums Art collectors Ante and Wiltrude On one night every memorabilia from people around the world. The founders are Zagreb artists who Topić Mimara built a large private year museums stay were once a couple themselves: the idea for the museum was born when their open late and entry own relationship ended and something had to be done with their joint posses- collection featuring major is free. The event is artworks dating from antiquity known as the Night Of sions. Afer a successful world tour during which many more objects were do- Museums, and is held nated, the exhibition found a permanent home in Zagreb’s Upper Town. It received to the 20th century. The Mimara in Zagreb and other Museum was founded when the cities across Croatia. the Kenneth Hudson award for the most innovative museum in Europe in 2011. couple donated their collection to the City of Zagreb.

40 ZAGREB CULTURE AND ARTS 41 croatian national theatre The monumental, historic building of the Croatian Na- tional Theatre was unveiled in 1895, and merits a visit for its academy of music architectural features alone. vatroslav lisinski The oldest music college in Croatia, the It also ofers a rich programme concert hall Academy has seen many world-class mu- of first-class opera, drama and Named afer the composer sicians pass through its doors. Its students ballet, and a performance here of the first Croatian opera, and graduates have performed at countless is guaranteed to be an unfor- this concert hall is one of concerts, shows and events, both in-house getable experience. the Zagreb cultural scene’s and in concert halls across the city. In 2014 premier venues. An impressive the Academy moved to a flashy new home number of world-renowned – a building distinguished by a unique roof art in the street artists have performed The entrance to the displaying in the colours of the rainbow. Academy of Music is here, from ensembles such graced by a tapering, as the Bolshoi Theatre, the 29-metre, silver- plated sculpture Scala Philharmonic Orches- called The Needle. tra from Milan, the Vienna Philharmonic and the Royal Philharmonic Orchestra from London, to soloists includ- ing Luciano Pavaroti, Jośe Carreras and Montserrat Caballé. Apart from the great classical names, Lisinski has also welcomed leading stars croatian music institute of pop, jazz and avant-garde The Croatian Music Institute is housed music, such as Nick Cave, Tina in an 1876 building, which is also home Turner and Ella Fitzgerald. to Zagreb's oldest concert hall. This is where top-notch chamber music is performed, most notably because of the room's exceptional acoustics.

42 ZAGREB CULTURE AND ARTS 43 zagreb events Something for everyone, every day of the week

design district zagreb Celebrating a single Zagreb neighbourhood, this festival promotes the idea that to act locally one must think glob- ally. For a few days each June, the micro location around Martićeva street turns into a design, art and entertainment zone. During that time, local artists and creatives present their work to the rest of Zagreb ibler high-rise and the world. Events show- This oldest high- case creative strategies for Finding fun things to do in Zagreb has never been easier. rise in Zagreb was constructed in 1958 and improving community living. find out more Every year sees the launch of new festivals and events, is fondly called "the Coupled with this are promo- wooden skyscraper". with more and more neighbourhoods generating creative tions of gastronomic and tour- ist products, outdoor concerts, energy from outdoor stages. One emerging trend is to hold literary evenings, creative festivals outside traditional venues such as concert halls workshops and educational and clubs, placing them instead in streets and squares walks – all with the aim of where they can merge with the everyday flow of local life. positioning the neighbourhood as a creative hub.

44 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 45 summer on stross One of Zagreb's most popular cest is d'best summer festivals takes place Spring in Zagreb just wouldn’t on the Strossmayer Promena- be the same without this de, nicknamed "Strossmartre" in international multidisciplinary honour of the arty Parisian suburb street festival. By now a defin- of Montmartre. It is a great place ing feature of the city's spirit, to listen to live music over a glass Cest is d'Best only takes place of wine and enjoy a gorgeous view outdoors, turning spectators of the city. Summer on Stross and bystanders into part of delights visitors with two events in the action. Interactive events particular: the most beautiful mut include various races (such as contest, and a fireworks display races between babies, waiters celebrating “Half Year's Day”. and street sweepers), a sign language school, a slowest bike tournament, a roaming piano and many more. With concert stages and street performers on almost every corner, Cest is d’Best is impos- sible to miss.

dvorišta Inner courtyards are a quintessential part of Zagreb's urban scene. However, it’s only during the Dvorišta Festival that you get a sneak peek inside some of the most magnificent, especially those belonging to the Upper Town's Baroque palaces. Visitors can enjoy brilliant live music, a great variety of food and drink, and a curious and educational selection of tales from Zagreb's history. Each year a new courtyard is unveiled, creating an exclusive opportunity to street performers experience these intimate city Cest is d'Best may be the ultimate spaces. street festival, but street performers continue entertaining Zagreb locals and visitors on other days throughout the year.

46 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 47 zagreb classic zagreb faces This uplifing cultural festival is During the charming Zagreb a summer delight for lovers of Time Machine festival you the festival of lights all classical music. Held outdoors can share an encounter This unusual project uses with Croatia's first woman in the elegant and idyllic King journalist Marija Jurić temporary light installations Tomislav Square, the events Zagorka, or exchange to bring life to various feature film screenings and words with Croatian writer Antun Gustav Matoš. Zagreb locations, paying live music concerts headed by special atention to those classical and pop music stars as that have been neglected or well as philharmonic and jazz underused. The events are ensembles. Watching an opera or set up to facilitate deeper a movie classic while cozied up interaction between the city, on a neatly-trimmed lawn makes its inhabitants, and visitors. for a memorable experience.

the open square day Intended as an event that ofers an insight into the activities of various cultural and educational institutions located on the Republic of Croatia's biggest open- Square, the Open event, INmusic has ended up Square Day also marks the on lists of the world's best beginning of the Zagreb music festivals on several cultural Autumn. For that one occasions. It takes place every day, this entire area is a stage year in June on three islands in for diferent atractive cultural Jarun Lake, where visitors can programs, such as ballet, opera also camp out for several days. zagreb time machine and theatre shows performed The bill frequently features From April to October Zagreb by the artists of the Croatian music stars, many of whom Time Machine hosts a variety National Theatre in Zagreb. world famous have performed at INmusic of music, dance and theatre Every year more than more than once. Every year the performances across the 40,000 music fans electric atmosphere is enhan- city with the aim to depict atend INmusic. They come from every ced by a surprise ingredient, the city and its surroundings corner of the world. such as a stage set deep inside as they once were. Every a forest or a spectacular replica weekend during that time, of Tesla's tower. "kumica" women are dressed up in traditional costume, characters from Zagreb's history stroll around in period atire, promenade concerts are held in Zrinjevac park and the Cravat Regiment performs the changing of the guard - plenty to conjure up Zagreb's rich bygone days.

48 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 49 bal... balthazar! Animated series Professor One of the largest international Balthazar is the best- known product of the documentary film festivals in Zagreb School of Animated this part of Europe, Zagrebdox . The broadcasting rights to this children’s is also where ideas and opini- classic have been sold in ons are freely exchanged. The 30 countries worldwide. atmosphere of creativity and inclusion is ideal for bouncing ideas around and geting new projects started. Visitors can also atend documentary film workshops and round-table animafest discussions. Zagrebdox takes Established in 1972 and taking place in June, Anima- place every year in the period fest is in many ways a tribute to the Zagreb School between late February and of Animated Films, one of the most influential forces early March. in global - especially back in the 1950s and 60s. Nowadays Animafest is a leading showcase for the best animated shorts and feature films from aro- und the world. Every other year the program focuses the golden pram on either short (even years) or feature animated Zagreb Festival's films (odd years). Come June, Zagreb audience awaits main award is called The Golden Pram in anticipation for both. and is inspired by a memorable sequence from Soviet movie classic festival Batleship Potemkin. is keenly awaited by cinephiles every autumn. Although the festival functions superbly well as a social event, the programme of quality international films remains the main atraction. Prizes are awarded to best films and actors, fantastic zagreb and the festival features film festival a host of other events This summer festival is a such as book launches dream come true for every and promotions of film- cinephile and science fiction industry technology. buf. Aside from the chance Spontaneous afer-parties to savour some intriguing subversive film festival are an important element film titles, the audience is An internationally-renowned forum for of the festival's spirit. treated to screenings at political, social, economic and cultural some extraordinary open-air dialogues, the festival also ofers a great locations, such as the impo- selection of screenings, lectures and round sing Medvedgrad Castle. table discussions. It takes place every May.

50 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 51 the golden pirouette of zagreb The Golden Pirouete of Zagreb is an important fixture in the senior figure-skating calendar. It first took place in 1968, ma- king it the oldest such meeting in the world. Leading interna- tional figure skaters compete here in the men's singles, As part of the tour, visitors ladies' singles, pair skating get to meet famous Croatian and ice dancing categories. writer Marija Jurić Zagorka and the characters from her novels. Another highlight is zagreb marathon watching actors reenact scenes The first Zagreb Marathon from the Croatian Peasant hanžeković memorial Uprising, headed by sixteenth- Fondly dubbed "Hanžek", this took place in 1992 with only century hero Matija Gubec. athletics meeting first took 70 participants making it place in 1958 and initially had a to the starting line. Today secrets of grič local character. In 1999 howe- thousands of runners register, This interactive theatrical tour is among the ver the event was classified partly because this is one of most popular things to do in Zagreb during as an international Grand Prix the world's fastest marathon summer. As a nocturnal sightseeing tour of meeting by the IAAF (Interna- races. The route features very jazz.hr the Upper Town, it ofers an atmospheric tional Association of Athletics few curves and hardly any This umbrella festival has and unusual insight into Zagreb's history. Federations), and in 2009 gradients, thereby allowing brought together various Stories revealed include the city's litle became a regular part of the for a steady rhythm and the events already present on known secrets, romances and intrigues, IAAF World Challenge series. chance of recording a good the Zagreb jazz scene. The performed both in Croatian and English. At the end of each summer, time. The Zagreb Marathon autumn and spring edi- it gathers leading athletes has become increasingly tions feature a fantastic from around the world. popular with casual runners, line-up of Croatian as well pif – international especially afer the intro- as world famous musicians. puppet theatre festival duction of a half-marathon. Launched by local Esperanto It is held every October. enthusiasts, this festival has established itself as an important platform for the best in the world of puppet Snow Queen Trophy is First held in 2005, this Alpine theatre. Every September, named afer the legendary Skiing World Cup event fea- Janica Kostelić, the puppet masters from around world's best-ever female tures slalom races at the top the world atend PIF. The Alpine skier. It was on of Mount Medvednica. Every main programme is also Mount Medvednica that she and her brother January it gathers skiers and coupled with a symposium on Ivica Kostelić took their spectators from both Croatia puppetry, puppet exhibitions, first steps in skiing. and abroad. One of the Snow workshops and charity events. Queen Trophy's distinguishing features is its close proximity to the capital city. It is also the only race whose winner is awarded a handmade crown.

52 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 53 advent in zagreb zrinjevac under snow The sight and sound of Zagreb amateur choirs singing Christmas carols inside the 1891 Zrinjevac Park Pavilion is certainly a moment to remember. The park’s snow-covered plane-trees and charming wooden huts selling traditional food and drink only add further magic to the experience.

christmas market ice-skating This is the best place to The Ice Park on King do Christmas shopping. As Tomislav Square is one of well as ofering delicious the most popular Advent holiday food, market A live nativity scene is set up in front of Zagreb locations. Here a popular stalls are stacked high winter leisure activity is with handmade souvenirs Cathedral, and each of the city’s squares has taken very seriously indeed. including gingerbread hearts its own unique ambience. Zrinjevac Park is for (licitari), local honey cookies and many other goodies that enjoying a waltz or listening to choirs singing can only be found in Zagreb. carols, while King Tomislav Square atracts throngs of skaters with its magnificent Ice Park. Every year Advent in Zagreb is a bit diferent – new locations and events are constantly popping up, ensuring additional elements of surprise and delight.

quick winter bites Winter in Zagreb provides a wealth of street-food options. The enticing aromas of "fritule" (deep-fried dough balls) and sausages waf from around every corner. Mulled Zagreb Advent begins when the wine is a great choice of drink, first Advent candle is lit, afer not least because it helps to warm up stif fingers. which the fun begins to flow out into the streets. Christmas Market stalls flood the city, atracting visitors with delicio- us food, which ranges in style from local classics to internati- onal fusion.

54 ZAGREB ZAGREB EVENTS 55 food

and drink Zagreb's largest farmer's market, Dolac, is the belly of the city and For moments the social glue of its citizens. Back in 1930, when the market first emerged in what was then an all too short age-batered residential area, few believed that Dolac would become the must-visit place both for fresh food and a bit of a chinwag. Initially the market concentrated on produce from local farmers and nearby villages. Since then, Dolac has grown into a gastronomic heaven flaunting food from all over Croatia. It’s the place to buy Zagorje cotage cheese and cream, mandarins from the Neretva valley, lemons from the island of Vis, Istrian olive oil, cherries from Zadar and Slavonian-reared meat. The stalls on the upper, open-air level of the market are decked out with characteristic red parasols featuring a striped Eating and drinking isn’t just part of our daily motif that is typical of the Zagreb find out more routine, it’s something to be enjoyed, seriously and region. Immediately to the north, without compromise. Choosing among Zagreb's Petrica Kerempuh Square hosts a colourful flower market. bountiful restaurants, bistros, bars and cafés is no easy task, but at least this dilemma is a rather zagreb kumica sweet one – or savoury, if that’s what you prefer. Women from nearby villages who Regardless of the spice, the food is always fresh. have traditionally sold their produce at Dolac are called "kumica". They are the heart and soul of the market, replenishing it daily with their fresh fruit, vegetables, eggs, corn bread and dairy products. A statue of a "kumica" standing at the market's entrance pays tribute to their indispensable role.

56 ZAGREB FOOD AND DRINK 57 As all capital cities, Zagreb is a meeting place of diverse cultural influences – some with mlinci wine routs in and simply spilling over the border and others arriving from far away. Dishes with The secret of this Zagreb feast-day dish is in the around zagreb German-sounding names reflect Zagreb's Central European connections, but slow roasting and frequent basting of the turkey. A Wine lovers are unlikely to go countless Mediterranean and Middle Eastern recipes have also taken root in the compulsory side dish is "mlinci", a type of flatbread thirsty in Zagreb. The city and city. The cuisine of today's Zagreb is rich and varied with a litle bit of something traditionally eaten in Zagreb and its surroundings. its surroundings abound with for everyone. Gracing the city’s menus are various types of international and ethnic The dough for mlinci is made of wheat flour, water atractive wine routes – there’s fare as well as east-west fusion, haute cuisine, and plenty of quality street food. and a pinch of salt. The mlinci are baked on a hot even a vineyard in the city Traditional home-cooked meals, however, are what make the everyday life of Zagreb plate, then sofened with boiling water and served centre, hidden away between folk all the more special. Those that follow are true, time-honoured classics. with turkey juices and dripping. Tkalčićeva and Radićeva streets. Otherwise Zagreb-city wine country begins in the eastern outskirts, stretching from the neighbourhood towards . Although litle known, this suburban wine area is well worth exploring for those eager to seek out some truly heavenly surprises. The wine routes of apple strudel This age-old classic dessert is a , embracing mainstay in many Zagreb homes. , Plešivica and Sveti When grated apples, spiced with Ivan Zelina, have already cinnamon and a drop of rum, are rolled inside sheets of filo made a name for themselves pastry, the final results smell and make excellent day trip and taste heavenly. Each home destinations. has its own way of preparing this dish - just don’t expect them to give away any secrets.

st martin's day farmers' markets grincajg Vineyards and wine cellars all around Zagreb locals love small- Just as soup is the usual Zagreb County bustle with activity on St Martin's Day in mid-November. scale shopping at farmers' starting point of every Zagreb meal, the starting point of This is when the young wine is blessed markets. The city boasts every good soup is its stock. - although tasting and enjoying the 25 markets in diferent Which is why "grincajg" – a mature version is not neglected either. bunch of vegetables containing Zagreb locals use this opportunity neighbourhoods, all of carrot, parsley, celery and to leave the urban hubbub behind which sell fresh produce kale – is the most sought and relax with local winegrowers in from around Croatia. afer article at every market. celebrating the fruits of their labour. When it comes to soup, grincajg is the diference that makes the diference. štrukli A dish for every occasion, "štrukli" come sweet or savoury, boiled as well as baked. They can be served as a starter, main course, dessert, or even dunked in soup. In Zagreb, the most popular way to eat this cult dish – made of filo pastry, cotage cheese, cream and eggs – is with savoury cheese filling, baked.

58 ZAGREB FOOD AND DRINK 59 street food festivals There is no shortage of street craft beer tradition food and street food festivals Zagreb has a long brewing tradition with several renowned in Zagreb. Bistros and eateries beer brands to show for it. around the city serve a great Nowadays an increasing number choice of bites all year round. of microbreweries are pushing out excellent craf batches, However Zagreb street food combining artisan tradition is at its best during the with the love of a good ale. numerous outdoor festivals that take place in the city’s parks and squares. Many of these festivals pair up street food with another leisure activity or cultural theme. One such example is an event that mixes gastronomy with film, allowing visitors to munch great food and catch some big-screen entertainment while lounging on the grass.

let's meet for coffee Cofee is without a doubt the locals' hot drink of choice. Indeed drinking cofee in Zagreb is very much a social ritual in which the chief goal is to bond with friends. This is why you’ll find cofee shops on virtually every street corner. The expression "idemo na kavu" (let’s meet for cofee) has an elastic meaning and now indicates socializing over a drink of any kind. the choice of restaurants There’s nothing the locals love to talk about more than food. News travels fast whenever a new eatery opens up, especially if great food is matched by an appetizing price. Eating out in Zagreb is becoming a more diverse experience by the day. And there’s an increasing number cottage cheese and cream of restaurants ofering For centuries this traditional product has travelled from nearby farms to the tables of Zagreb an original culinary vision, locals. Cotage cheese and cream can be paired with various vegetables, depending on the whether it’s in the field of season and occasion. There is even a traditional Zagreb way to buy it at the market – from local, fusion or exotic cuisine. your own "kumica". Many families get to know the woman who makes and sells it and this ritual exchange may indeed be passed down from one generation to the next.

60 ZAGREB FOOD AND DRINK 61 shopping and entertainment A piece of Zagreb to take back home

croatian design souvenirs In recent years, Zagreb desi- gners have taken a whole new approach to souvenirs. They are continually thinking up atractive ways of designing objects which are practically useful, rooted in local expe- Finding entertainment in Zagreb has never been easier. rience, and at the same time find out more Day or night, there’s an increasing number of going-out serve as mementos of Croa- destinations, all of which makes Zagreb a richer and tia. Several Zagreb shops are defying the trend towards more open city. Some of these places are among the penkala mass-produced memorabilia most interesting entertainment spots in this part of When Eduard Slavoljub Penkala by showcasing a discerning patented the mechanical Europe. Shopping in Zagreb also comes high on the list pen in 1906 and the fountain collection of locally-designed of things to do. Given the sheer variety of atractive pen in 1907, he became one souvenirs that will help you of Croatia's most famous cherish the memory of Zagreb products, from fun gifs to cool designer artefacts, inventors. His breakthroughs brought him fame, and also for a long time. it’s difcult to leave Zagreb without a souvenir. put Zagreb firmly on the global innovation map.

62 ZAGREB SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT 63 šestine umbrella young fashion designers This bright red umbrella adorned New names are constantly with a colourful motif is the symbol popping up from Zagreb’s of Šestine – a village nestling at the foot of Mount Medvednica. flourishing fashion scene. Its characteristic appearance has A growing number of become a popular part of Zagreb’s specialized concept stores are visual identity. The Šestine umbrella is a mainstay in most shops around displaying locally designed the city and makes for a wonderfully collections. Whether it is for authentic souvenir. Stalls at Dolac uniquely tailored clothes or Market are shaded with parasols carrying bright red Šestine motifs. unconventional household accessories, a trip to one of gingerbread heart those outlets makes for an exciting adventure. Originally given as a token of love and friendship, paprenjak biscuit the gingerbread heart (or “licitarsko srce” as it The traditional Zagreb is known locally) is one of Zagreb’s best-known "paprenjak" biscuit is a traditional souvenirs. Its distinctive appearance unique fusion of sweet and artisan production have ensured its inclusion and peppery flavours. on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List. August Šenoa’s novel about 16th century Zagreb, The Goldsmith's Treasure, mentions it as one of the locals' favourite treats. Today a popular souvenir, it is stocked in shops all zagreb artisans around Zagreb. Zagreb abounds with traditional crafspeople who continue to successfully compete with global brands. Family-run boutiques produce everything from custom-made shoes to leather accessories, tailor-made suits and stylish hats of enduring quality. Alongside these shoemakers, tailors and milliners are a host of studios where artists and contemporary artisans produce unique and original handicrafs.

croatian tie It may have been the French shopping centres aristocracy who elevated Zagreb shopping centres are the necktie into a popular strategically located around fashion accessory, but it the city to provide easy and was Croatian soldiery in the convenient access to a wide Thirty Year's War who wore it range of goods. They ofer a first. Today this popular item practical way of shopping in of clothing is the quinte- many stores, all in one place. ssential Croatian souvenir. It comes superbly crafed and in various atractive designs.

64 ZAGREB SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT 65 outdoor fun cafés and bars Warm weather in spring and Conventional city-centre summer coaxes locals and vi- cofee shops blossomed sitors out of doors. Park lawns overnight into concept and benches are busy with cafés and bars. Impecca- people, many of them meeting bly designed and with friends to spend a few hours discerning drinks menus, on a picnic blanket. This is the few locals or visitors can peak time for Zagreb’s open-air resist their charms. food and music events, when a chance to have a drink or hear an up-and-coming band awaits mixing art and fun just around the corner. Diferent forms of culture have always combined well in Zagreb, and a alternative music scene mix-and-match approach The origins of the Zagreb to the arts is something alternative music scene go of a local trademark. back to the 1970s, when There are fusions of all several cult clubs began to kinds, from live music in make their name. The tradition galleries and museums to is as alive as ever with top- educational programmes notch concerts, DJ events and incorporating a strong musical happenings continuing degree of entertainment. to galvanize these everlasting Many of these events haunts. The Zagreb club take place in conventional scene in general is on the rise. venues, but there is also Excellent music, from pop to no shortage of outdoor or , atracts fervent pop-up spaces. It is not music fans as well as those unusual to start the night who just want a good night at a gallery opening and out. The music scene in Zagreb finish it partying until the is full of surprises! wee hours.

66 ZAGREB SHOPPING AND ENTERTAINMENT 67 zagreb for children A city of many possibilities

zagreb zoo Opened in 1925, Zagreb Zoo is the oldest in Southeastern Europe. It started with two owls and three foxes only to expand into a home for 300 animal species from all over the world. Zagreb Zoo is known Many visitors dream of returning to Zagreb and find out more for developing educational children are no exception. This is no surprise as programmes which teach chil- Zagreb brims with outdoor and indoor playgrounds. dren positive atitudes towards nature, and also give them The city makes a special efort to cater for kids, with hands-on experience of biology events specially tailored to their taste. Museums and environmental protection. run special kids’ programmes, and children's theatres have a rich repertoire of plays for everyone from toddlers upwards. All this makes Zagreb an ideal travel destination for families with children.

68 ZAGREB ZAGREB FOR CHILDREN 69 croatian natural history museum children's theatres With a vast permanent and Children's theatres have a long history in interactive collection of Zagreb. Most local people have fond memories (mostly stufed, pickled or of seeing a play or going on a school trip to a digital) animals, this museum children's theatre. Spread around Zagreb, these never fails to impress children. theatres are easily accessible to children from Absorbing workshop events all neighbourhoods. There is always something invite kids to dive into biology fun going on: an intriguing play or a compelling and genetics, seting them journey into the world of imagination and up to be true DNA detectives. creativity. Some of the museum's educational programmes are specifically designed for pre- planetarium school children. The Technical Museum Nikola Tesla is the ideal stop for astronomy fans. Located on the first floor, the Zeiss Planetarium was built in 1965 and is a thrilling experien- ce for all those looking to expand their horizons. backo mini express Thanks to a zealous team of model railway enthusiasts, Zagreb now boasts the largest model railway layout in Southeastern Europe. It includes well over 100 items of rolling stock, ratling croatian school museum their way along 1,050 Ever since opening in 1901 metres of track, passing this museum has collected, through tunnels, towns researched and displayed a and stations on their way. museum of illusions rich array of materials on the A great way to take a break history of . from conventional museums or Visitors can explore historic indeed from reality in general is teaching materials and school to visit the Museum of Illusions. equipment. There are also Here nothing is as expected: collections of documents and upright things become slanted; photographs that conjure up small things grow into big what going to school was like things, or simply multiply into in the past. Throughout the infinity in the "mirror room". year, the museum hosts nu- The museum playroom allows merous educational workshops visitors of all ages to compete to show children that learning in solving puzzles and learning can be a fun exercise in doing new tricks and games. things together.

70 ZAGREB ZAGREB FOR CHILDREN 71 zagreb in 24 hours

public transport Public consists of , buses and the funicular. All are distinguished by their distinct There is no beter way of geting around Zagreb than blue livery. The network by hopping on a tram. Apart from being one of Zagreb's find out more covers most of Zagreb, and is trademark features, trams are a quick and easy mode of particularly useful in the city centre. Outer neighbourhoods travel. Zagreb takes pride in being a city made to human are connected by bus. measure. It is compact and easily navigated, and nowhere takes too long to reach. Most atractions are close at hand and it is up to you to take your pick with the help of this guide. With these suggestions, you will make the most of your time even if you are here on a short visit. You can always leave the rest until the next time.

72 ZAGREB ZAGREB IN 24 HOURS 73 09.00 — 10.30 10.30 — 12.00 Start exploring the city from Walk along the charming Opato- Ban Jelačić Square. Visit Dolac vina street and take a moment Market perched above the to enjoy a cup of cofee or a glass north side of the square and of local craf beer. Make a turn continue on to see Zagreb into Skalinska street to reach one Cathedral. With its conspicuous, of the most popular streets in 105-metre-high twin spires, it Zagreb – Tkalčićeva. From there, is hard to miss. Just up the road climb Felbinger stairs towards Ra- are some handsome town- dićeva street where you will see a houses built for leading clergy small terraced vineyard. The Stone in the 18th century. Gate, one of the city's landmarks, awaits at the top of the stairs.

16.30 — 19.00 Head towards the Croatian 12.00 — 14.00 National Theatre, which is Zagreb's Upper Town is surrounded with several dazzling no mater which route scientific and cultural you take to explore it. But it institutions. From here you is worth being at Lotrščak can make a start on the Tower at high noon when the Lenuci Horseshoe by heading Grič Cannon is traditionally south through Mažuranić and fired. Visit the central St Marulić Squares until you Mark's Square, but also take reach the Botanical Garden. time to tread the many lovely Walk through or alongside the alleyways which epitomize the garden to the east and you Upper Town's charm. Take note will soon reach the central of several noblemen's palaces railway station and the and have a sneak peek inside beautiful King Tomislav Square. their beautiful courtyards. Follow this green trail through Strossmayer Square until you finish your journey at the 14.00 — 16.30 popular Zrinjevac Park. With Hop on the funicular and descend towards delightful fountains flanking Zagreb's oldest street – Ilica. Apart from numerous the Music Pavilion, this square boutiques and restaurants, Ilica also boasts some has a special place in the hearts remarkably elegant architecture, mostly dating of the locals. from the 19th century. Meander towards Petar Preradović Square (also known as Flower Square) where café terraces serve as the locals' outdoor li- ving room. Nearby Teslina and Masarykova streets 19.00 — ... are teeming with shops, cafés and restaurants, and By now it’s time for a rest. By now you will have seen are perfect places for a short break. enough of Zagreb to pick the right place for a night out. Maybe have a drink and a bite to eat in Tkalčićeva, Opatovina, or Teslina?

74 ZAGREB ZAGREB IN 24 HOURS 75 zagreb in 72 hours

zagreb card The Zagreb Card is the best way to cover Zagreb’s major sights and save money along the way. It Sticking around for three days allows you to includes free public transport, free entry to several find out more enjoy a much fuller experience of the Zagreb must-see atractions, as well as discounted prices in many restaurants, shops, museums and other way of life. This gives you enough time to places of interest. explore the city's highlights, make a local café your own and learn to navigate the tram network. You could even venture out on a day trip to the surrounding countryside. However you choose to travel, Zagreb has plenty to ofer.

76 ZAGREB ZAGREB IN 72 HOURS 77 afternoon Day One – Zagreb Must-Sees The most pleasant sightseeing route is the one provided by the Lenuci Horseshoe. Not only does it reveal the pretiest areas of the Lower Town, but it also boasts some of the best museums in the city.

morning Start the day by feeling the real pulse of the city at Dolac Market. Watch those vivacious market vendors and soak up the atmosphere. Take your time – hurrying is not the way to go in Zagreb. Treat yourself to a bite to eat from a bakery and stop for cofee. Afer that, have a stroll around Kaptol, Opatovina and Tkalčićeva evening streets. Climb to the Upper The city's most popular Town to explore its timeless entertainment strips charms. are Tkalčićeva street, Opatovina and Petar coffee in town Preradović Square. Saturday is the most popular day for meeting Take your pick from friends over cofee. the countless cafés and However you will also notice that Zagreb locals restaurants there and enjoy indulge in the cofee- your first genuine Zagreb drinking ritual on a daily night out. basis, making imaginative use of regular work-breaks in order to do so. going out You can have a great night out at many cafés, bars and clubs which host regular noon live music or DJ events. To find out what's on, follow Take a ride on the funicular to their social media profiles. reach the Lower Town where the urban hubbub truly begins. Even so, there are plenty of cozy places where you can enjoy a quiet drink and a bite to eat. Drifing along the Zagreb "špica" is the way to get in on the latest fashion trends, and look out for excellent places to do some shopping.

78 ZAGREB ZAGREB IN 72 HOURS 79 Day Two – Outside The City Centre Day Three – Best Day Trips

morning Start the day by visiting a local café for cofee. Every neighbourhood in Zagreb has a few interesting places where you can enjoy this typical mor- ning ritual.

afternoon Cross one of the bridges over the river Sava and get to know the south side of Zagreb too. Spend some time in the Muse- um of Contemporary Art, then walk to nearby Bundek – a splendid expanse of parkland in Novi Zagreb. Not far from there is also an atractive golf course, stretching along the Sava riverbank. noon Use this time of day for an fountains outdoor activity. Hire a bike A stunning ensemble of or go for a walk in a park. five fountains stretches Wherever you are in Zagreb, along the park opposite the National University Library. from dawn to dusk there is always a park around It is quite a sight to see By now you know that the best the corner: Maksimir, Jarun, their playing waters by day way to start the day is to make and light shows by night. Tuškanac and many more. time for the cofee ritual. Afer that, you are ready to explore Zagreb’s versatile surroundings. You can opt for nearby Sljeme and Samobor, or take a 90-minute drive to the blue setting off Adriatic. With charming historic Zagreb's central railway station is located in evening towns, castles, manor houses, the very centre of the Pick a special place to eat out. archeological sites, nature city. You can reach it The choice is limitless, from parks and World Heritage sites by tram or by one of the many taxi services bistros to high-end restaurants, of pristine beauty, the choice is operating in Zagreb. and good food is guaranteed. really endless. Enjoy!

80 ZAGREB ZAGREB IN 72 HOURS 81 zagreb surroundings Beautiful memories moments away

plitvice lakes Plitvice Lakes are without a doubt one of Croatia's most stunning wonders of nature. This national park is famous organized tours throughout the world for its You can venture out on a day mesmerizing waterfalls and trip on your own, or book a tour with one of many tourist turquoise lakes. agencies based in Zagreb. More on page 88. To learn more about your options, visit the the Zagreb Tourist Information Centre. Zagreb is within easy day-trip distance of countless find out more sites of natural beauty and cultural heritage. Mountains, rivers, lakes, even the Adriatic Sea are all within easy reach. Many historic towns and localities are also part of the greater Zagreb area. The gems listed here are well worth making the time to visit. Some are mere centuries old, while others go back to prehistory.

82 ZAGREB ZAGREB SURROUNDINGS 83 north trakošćan (80 km / 70 min) Of all the castles of the Zagorje, varaždin (87 km / 65 min) Trakošćan in the northwest is the The beautifully preserved most famous. It dates back to Baroque town of Varaždin the 13th century when it was only once served as the capital a small fort on a hill. In the 19th of Croatia. Numerous century, the noble Drašković family patrician mansions are a transformed it into a romantic reminder of that time, as aristocratic residence surrounded by well as Varaždin Castle, lush woodland and a boating lake. fortified to resist Otoman The castle interior is in excellent expansion. Varaždin’s The gently rolling hills condition and ofers a unique charming Old Town has a north of Zagreb captivate insight into 19th-century tastes in with their fairytale castles interior decoration. large pedestrianized area and friendly family-run with a number of atractions, farms. The area is an ideal including engrossing destination for both cultural and foodie travellers. museums, alluring parks and an outstanding theatre. (60 km / 50 min) Every August Varaždin livens Krapina is famous for being up during Špancirfest – a home to Europe's largest Pa- hugely enjoyable outdoor laeolithic site. The fossil bones festival including live music, found in the area belonged to market stalls, children’s play- the Neanderthals who lived areas and street entertainers. here 30,000 years ago. Their story is told by the multi-media displays of the Krapina Nean- derthal Museum. the spa county (50–115 km / 60–100min) The area north of Zagreb is rich in thermal water and has a long tradition of wellness tourism. The newest and most stylish resort is Sveti Martin spa with the biggest aquapark in Croatia and a wellness centre covering an area of 1,700 veliki tabor (70 km / 72 min) square metres. In Zagorje, healing This 15th century castle is now thermal waters are a capital featu- a compelling museum boasting re of Varaždin, Krapina, Stubica and unique Renaissance furnishings. Tuhelj spas. Apart from swimming, A number of rare artworks were these spa and wellness destinati- also uncovered during the last ons ofer other types of fun, such bout of restoration. Veliki Tabor as various sporting activities and hosts the acclaimed Tabor Film an excellent range of gastronomic Festival, dedicated to short films. and cultural experiences. This mix of fun and relaxation makes them a great choice for family travel.

84 ZAGREB ZAGREB SURROUNDINGS 85 north east

(40 km / 50 min) Every year thousands of Christians visit this well-known Marian pilgrimage site. The beau- The countryside east of Zagreb is distinguished tiful church of Our Lady of the Snows features by sweeping plains and the 15th-century statue of the Blessed Virgin vast areas of unspoilt Mary with the Infant Jesus. It was saved from nature. Rising up in between are gentle hills the Turks by a local priest who died before where winemaking has revealing its hiding place. Many years later, the flourished since the statue was found because of its glowing light times of antiquity. which is believed to have healing powers. andautonija (15 km / 26 min) The sleepy village of Šćitarjevo was once an important Ancient Roman town. Built in the 1st cen- tury AD, it was at the intersection of trade routes in the Sava valley. Today, the archeological site is an atractive park where visitors can stroll along historic cobbled streets and marvel at the under- floor heating of the former public bathhouse. Every year in April, the Days of Andautonija include Roman-themed events and expe- rimental archeology workshops. Ancient food and drink recipes are revived and children can take part in Roman-themed games. kumrovec (60 km / 60 min) As well as being famous as the lonjsko polje (116 km / 110 min) birthplace of , the vi- Croatia’s largest area of wetland, Lonjsko Polje llage of Kumrovec also incorporates is exceptionally rich in flora and fauna. This the unique open-air ethnographic protected wildlife habitat is also a wonderful museum of Staro Selo. The collec- cycling destination where visitors can lodge in tion features original 19th-century traditional wooden houses. Nature lovers flock Zagorje houses with thatched roofs. here between April and August when more On display inside the houses are than a third of Croatia's white stork population everyday objects and tools used returns from Africa. Each house in the village by the peasants from the region. of Čigoč shares a roof with at least one storks’ Also on display are recreations of nest. When they return in the spring, most bird traditional shops and craf works- couples nest in the same spot as they did the hops. There is even an opportunity previous year. to have a go on a potery wheel.

86 ZAGREB ZAGREB SURROUNDINGS 87 south west

plešivica (45 km / 50 min) The name of both a village and the hills that surround South from Zagreb it, Plešivica is a celebrated nature turns more dramatic: mountains wine-growing region where are bigger, forests are connoisseurs can explore thicker and the landscape looks more rugged. countless wine routes. Although Lakes and waterfalls Plešivica is very much an dolina kardinala are the high points of all-year-round destination it Krašić is a scenic town nestled this breathtakingly in the Kupčina valley. The area (105 km / 95 min) beautiful area. atracts most people in October, once harboured a Bronze- Slunj is the perfect stop-of on when it is time to taste the local Age setlement, but it is the 20th century that inspired its the way from Zagreb to the Portugizac – a fruity red wine nickname – The Cardinals' Valley. Plitvice Lakes. It is dramatically that is best taken while young. Croatia's renowned cardinal set above the river , Alojzije Stepinac ofciated at his first mass in Krašić while many where the Korana’s tributary other high-ranking clergymen Slunjčica powers a group of were born in nearby villages. traditional water mills in the suburb of Rastoke. Visitors can walk through the pictu- resque labyrinth of canals and wooden bridges or stop for a lunch of freshly caught trout in one of many rustic riverside restaurants. Rafing trips on the fast moving waters of the Korana are also available – a samobor (27km / 30 min) true highlight for adventure One of the best-preserved seekers. plitvice lakes national park historic towns in inland Croatia, (130 km / 120 min) Samobor is a favourite weekend One of Croatia's landmark outing for Zagreb folk. Traditional wonders of nature, Plitvice arts and crafs are among the Lakes National Park is famous town's main atractions, although for its arresting waterfalls and it’s the scrumptious “kremšnita” turquoise-tinted lakes. It is also cream cake that garners most home of Čorkova Uvala, the in the way of visitor atention. pretiest virgin forest in the Di- Samobor is particularly lively in naric Alps. The entry fee to the early February during carnival park also includes boat rides on time (locally called "fašnik"). The the park’s biggest lake and free main square and all surrounding use of the electric train that streets teem with people, some connects the principal beauty parading in masks and costumes spots on the eastern side of and others enjoying the spectacle. the park.

88 ZAGREB ZAGREB SURROUNDINGS 89 west Heading southwest from Zagreb, the landscape find out more changes with each kilometre, accommodation from the rippling hills of Plešivica to the thick evergreen forests of , all the way to the More than just cobalt-blue Adriatic Sea. a bed for the night

oldest hotel Opened in 1827, Jägerhorn is the oldest stil-operating hotel in Zagreb. and opatija (cca 160 km / 110 min) As Croatia's third biggest city and largest seaport, Rijeka is an exciting fusion of cosmo- politan bustle and laid-back Mediterranean joie kvarner and gorski kotar de vivre. On top of that, the jewel of Croatian It takes around 90 minutes tourism Opatija is only a 15-minute drive away. from Zagreb to reach the broad Well connected and with balmy weather all year Adriatic bay known as the round, Opatija earned its fame in the second half Kvarner Gulf. The route itself is from heritage hotels to of the 19th century when it became the darling youth hostels a scenic one, passing throu- destination for the Austro-Hungarian elite. gh the dramatic Gorski Kotar Accommodation in Zagreb region. Verdant green moun- is wide-ranging and has so- tains are sprinkled with bucolic mething to suit everyone. The villages where a strong sense choice includes five star hotels, of local tradition has been international hotel chains, preserved, especially when it characterful hostels and a comes to gastronomy. Nothing variety of rental apartments. surpasses the moment when A number of heritage hotels the mountains end and the ofer unique tradition while Adriatic Sea suddenly hoves boutique hotels and quirky into view. The islands of Krk, hostels rely on a creative and Cres and Lošinj are the gems of individual approach. All of the the Kvarner Gulf. above provide a high standard of service and represent ideal starting points in geting to know the city.

90 ZAGREB ACCOMODATION 91 meetings & conventions local time getting around Zagreb is the main convention centre in Croatia. gmt +1 hour With the increasing number of conventions, official language conferences and other types of gatherings taking Croatian place in Zagreb, the city is earning a reputation as one of world's favourite destinations of this useful kind. Zagreb's main advantages are a large number weather of both contemporary and historic venues, an Zagreb has a moderate exceptional range of hotels, rich gastronomic and continental climate with four information cultural experiences and high-profile professional separate seasons. Summers people. On top of that, Zagreb is a pleasant are usually hot and dry with compact city with all major attractions easily average temperatures between arriving to zagreb franjo tuđman airport reached on foot. More information is available on 20-25 °C. Winters are fairly cold One of Zagreb's many advan- Information: 060 320 320 www.meetinzagreb.hr with average temperatures tages is its location. The city is www.zagreb-airport.hr between 1-5 °C. The warmest anchored between Central and Timetable for buses operating between Airport and months of the year are July and Southeastern Europe as well as the main bus station: www.plesoprijevoz.hr money August while the coldest are the Adriatic Sea, thus mak- Croatian currency is called Kuna (HRK). January and February. ing it an important transport main bus station Currency denominations include: hub. Travelling by plane or land, Avenija Marina Držića 4 Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50 Lipa; 1, 2, 5 Kuna Zagreb provides easy access to Information: 060 313 333 Notes: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000 Kuna electricity supply all major Croatian cities as well www.akz.hr 1 Kuna = 100 Lipa 220v, 50Hz. as the capitals of neighbouring Standard European countries. The airport is located central railway station Money can be exchanged at exchange offices, two-pin plug. 15 km from the city centre Trg kralja Tomislava 12 banks, post offices and hotels. Most retailers and water and can be reached by bus or Information: 060 333 444 service providers in the hospitality industry accept Tap water in Zagreb is taxi. Zagreb's central railway www.hzpp.hr credit cards. safe for drinking. station is only 10 minutes walk or two tram stops away from Ban Jelačić Square. The main zagreb card national holidays important telephone numbers bus station is also close to the There are two types of Zagreb Card: a 24-hour 1 January – New Year's Day 112 General Emergency centre, to which it is well con- and a 72-hour one. Both include free public 6 January – Epiphany or Three Kings' Day 192 Police nected by tram. transport and entry to six top attractions as well Easter 193 Fire Brigade as discounts for 70 other points of interest, such Easter Monday 194 Ambulance as museums, restaurants, shops and many more. 1 May – Labour Day 11802 International Information visa regime in croatia Detailed information is available at 30 May – Statehood Day 18981 General Information Information about the visa www.zagrebcard.com Corpus Christi 0800 53 53 Zagreb Tourist regime between Croatia and 22 June – Anti-Fascist Resistance Day Information (free when dialled all other countries is available 5 August – Victory and National from within Croatia) from the Ministry of Foreign main post offices Thanksgiving Day and Croatian Veterans' Day and European Affairs. Jurišićeva 13 15 August – The www.mvep.hr tel. +385 166 26 452 1 November – All Saints' Day internet (Mon - Fri: 07.00-20.00; Sat: 18 November – War of Independence There are more than 20 Wi-Fi hotspots 07.00-14.00) Remembrance Day and and around Zagreb that offer free internet Branimirova 4 Škabrnja Remembrance Day provided by the city wireless network. tel. + 385 149 81 550 25 December – Christmas Their number is growing by the day. (Mon - Sun: 07.00-24.00) 26 December – St Stephen's Day

92 ZAGREB USEFUL INFORMATION 93 impressum tourist information

publisher Visitor Centre Zagreb Tourist Board Trg bana J. Jelačića 11 tel. +385 1 48 14 051, +385 1 48 14 052, +385 1 48 14 054 e-mail: [email protected] www.infozagreb.hr on behalf of the publisher Martina Bienenfeld, Ph.D. Visitor Centre Franjo Tuđman Airport design, layout, illustration Ulica Rudolfa Fizira 21, Superstudio, Zagreb tel. +385 1 6265 091 e-mail: [email protected] text authors Ivo Payer Tourist Info Centre Lotrščak Tower Bojan Krištofić Strossmayerovo šetalište Zagreb Tourist Board tel. +385 1 48 51 510 e-mail: [email protected] translation by Andrea Pisac Tourist Info Centre Zagreb Central Railway Station proof-reading Trg kralja Tomislava 12 Jonathan Bousfield tel. +385 99 2109 918 e-mail: [email protected] print --- Tourist Info Centre Main Bus Station isbn 978-953-228-095-1 Avenija Marina Držića 4 tel. + 385 1 61 15 507, +385 1 61 15 508 Remark: e-mail: [email protected] Although the publishers have made every effort to ensure that the information in this publication was correct at the time of going to press, they are unable to take any responsibility for errors and any changes posterior to publication.

Zagreb Tourist Board Kaptol 5, 10000 Zagreb www.infozagreb.hr [email protected]

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Ana Markezić / ZTB Archives Patrik Macek / PIXSELL Antonio Bokšić / ZTB Archives Petar Glebov / PIXSELL Aquae Vivae Archives Petar Trinajstić / Opatija Tourist Board Archives Backo Mini Express Archives Plitvice Lakes National Park Archives Barbara Šarić / Superstudio Archives Roko Bahat / Mali piknik Archives Bojan Haron Markičević / CNTB Archives Sanjin Kaštelan / ZTB Archives City Center One Archives Sanjin Strukić / PIXSELL Cod.8609, fol.17v. / ÖNB/Wien Archives Sergio Gobbo / CNTB Archives Dalibor Urukalović / PIXSELL Srđan Vuković / Museum of Broken Relationships Archives Davor Đopar / Samobor Tourist Board Archives Stipe Surać / CNTB Archives Davor Puklavec / PIXSELL Studio Hrg / Croatian Ski Association Archives Davor Rostuhar / ZTB Archives Superstudio Archives Domagoj Blažević / CNTB Archives Tomislav Miletić / PIXSELL Domagoj Kunić / ZTB Archives Tomislav Šklopan / ZTB Archives Goran Jakuš / PIXSELL Vedran Metelko / CNTB Archives Goran Stanzl / PIXSELL Višnja Arambašić / ZTB Archives Goran Vranić / Croatian Museum of Naive Art Archives Željko Lukunić / PIXSELL Goran Vranić / ZTB Archives Grgur Žučko / PIXSELL Hotel Esplanade Zagreb Archives Hrvoje Brigljević / ZTB Archives Igor Kralj / PIXSELL Ivo Biočina / CNTB Archives Ivo Pervan / ZTB Archives Josip Grđan / Samobor Tourist Board Archives Julien Duval / ZTB Archives Jurica Galoić / PIXSELL Katarina Gavrilica / Dioralop Archives Luka Šangulin / Pločnik Archives Marija Gašparović / Design District Zagreb Archives Marija Gašparović / ZTB Archives Marko Jurinec / PIXSELL Marko Lukunić / PIXSELL Marko Prpić / PIXSELL Marko Vrdoljak / ZTB Archives Matija Dronjić / Etnographic Museum Archives Medvednica Nature Park Archives Museums of the Croatian Zagorje Archives Nina Đurđević / Katapult promocija Archives Nina Đurđević / PIXSELL

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