Edinburgh City Travel Guide Editorial 2 3 3 Editorial

– the beauty in the north

Edinburgh. The small capital on the periphery of Europe is much more than a gateway to the Scottish Highlands. Situated between the Forth of Firth and volcanic hills, it is embedded in an idyllic natural landscape. Climb King Arthur`s Seat to view the fantastic scenery of the surroundings.

Discover buildings, streets and areas rich in history – far beyond the popular King`s Castle as the symbol of the city. Bad-weather alternatives offer museums and galleries like the National Museum of or the little Writers’ Museum. In many cases, the entrance is free.

Experience the numerous pubs in the centre or join a traditional Ceilidh dance evening. The charm of small shops, the cafes and restaurants invite you to stroll around and stay. Pluck up courage and try the traditional dish Haggis, for example. Or what about joining a whisky tasting?

You should also take your time to discover the surrounding of Edinburgh. Enjoy the gentle sea breeze in Portobello – the Brighton of the North. Let yourself be lost in the mystic atmosphere of Rosslyn Chapel, which Dan Brown made famous in the “Da Vinci Code”.

Enjoy discovering!

The team of city travel review, December 2014 Contents 4 5

editorial page 3 edinburgh – the beauty in the north sights page 6 the scottish parliament – green from the roof to the loo page 8 edinburgh castle - symbol of the city page 12 holyroodhouse – the queen’s official residence page 14 discover edinburgh – take a guided tour page 16 notes from the parish – a visit to greyfriars kirk gaelic service page 18 calton hill – a photographers place page 20 the balmoral hotel – eat the luxury museums, galleries page 22 national museum of scotland – following historical traces page 24 scottish national gallery of modern art – a colorful place page 26 scottish national portrait gallery – meet sir walter scott and colin montgomerie page 28 sir walter’s locks – the writers’ museum page 30 a a study in crime novels – arthur conan doyle’s edinburgh page 32 plunge into history – the people’s story page 34 stills – scotland’s centre for photography page 36 dovecot studios – a world of old-fashioned craftworks areas, streets, places page 38 grassmarket – edinburgh’s fun fair page 40 one scots mile of edinburgh – the page 42 new town – an elegant contrast to the old town page 44 following harry through potterburgh page 46 fancy the village? – come to stockbridge! page 48 leith – on the traces of trainspotting page 50 leith walk – street of diversity nightlife, activities page 52 real scottish dance – the ceilidh page 54 the bohèmian’s living room - the royal oak page 56 the sandy bell’s page 58 the jazz bar – music, drinks and atmosphere page 60 – an antidote to commercial art page 62 the stand comedy club – eat, drink, laugh page 64 festival theatre – glitz and glamour page 66 the cameo – 100 years of cult cinema culture page 68 the witchery tour – ghostly edinburgh secrets sports page 70 the golf tavern – first golf pub in the world page 72 the royal burgess golfing society page 74 leith links – where the golf rules were born page 76 the commie – first pool for everyone

5 contents

food, drink page 78 the world of whisky – global trends page 80 cadenhead’s whisky shop page 82 the diggers page 84 the haggis experience page 86 bene’s – fish and chips in style page 88 the scottish accent: how to order a salad and end up with a burger page 90 slow food – good, clean and fair page 92 mosque kitchen – traditional curries and chicken tikka pizza page 94 10 to 10 in delhi – indian restaurant page 96 the spoon – inspired by scottish nature page 98 tugas amor – grilled sardines and fado songs 98 page 100 fall in love with lovecrumbs page 102 mary’s milk bar – unique chocolate-creations page 104 café picante – trying the deep-fried mars bar page 106 the archipelago bakery – a tasty secret page 108 peter’s yard – simple but tasty page 110 café nom de plume – blue hour in new town shopping page 112 farmers‘ market – water buffalo, honey and bread page 114 meet the music – coda record store page 116 kilberry bagpipes – crafting a scottish symbol page 118 21st century kilts – the modern masculine skirt page 120 w. armstrong & son – time travel through fashion page 122 every day is christmas page 124 germany in edinburgh – the german christmas market page 126 the red door gallery – edinburgh’s art nature page 128 arthur’s seat – away from the urban world page 130 salisbury crags – building material for the streets of london page 132 the royal botanic garden – a winter walk through the green beauty page 134 the water of leith walkway – exploring the hidden natural asset page 136 the meadows – play, walk, relax excursions page 138 portobello – brighton of the north page 140 john muir way – free your mind page 142 roslin chapel – visiting a most delicate stone masonry works the team page 144 imprint page 148 Sights 7 Sights

the scottish parliament – green from the roof to the loo

text sabrina wendling, photo werner gritzbach

Seen from above, the Scottish Parliament building looks like leaves from a tree. It is surrounded by wild flower meadows, ponds, wild cherry and lime trees. Nature is the omnipresent topic in its architecture. The building merges with the landscape. Or as the architect Enric Miralles puts it: The parliament grows out of the land. Even inside the building, you will find the shape of leaves almost everywhere. Walking through the garden lobby feels like strolling through a forest as the roof is covered with leaves - formed of glass and steel. But there’s also real nature inside the parliament: Rain gutters at the windows bring rain water down to the lavatories - where it is used as toilet flush. A building green from the roof to the loo. Even in the debating chamber - where the 129 representatives discuss issues such as agriculture, environment and health - you will feel close to nature. Through the windows, the representatives have a spectacular view to the hills. A view that can also be enjoyed by visitors. Better plan your visit early - the Scottish Parliament is a hot spot for both tourists and Scots. In fact sometimes there are more visitors than representatives in the chamber.

Scottish Parliament, Edinburgh EH99 1SP Tickets: Ministers Question Time: Tickets can only be booked by telephone on 0131 348 5200 or freephone 0800 092 7600. Textphone users can use 0800 092 7100 Tickets for other debates can be booked online: www.scottish.parliament.co.uk Guided tours are free. There is also an art, a history and a literature tour. Sights 8

edinburgh castle – symbol of the city

text and photo michaela schneider, photo page 11 werner gritzbach 9 Sights Sights 10

History-rich Edinburgh sceptre and the sword are grounds. Castle is one of the the oldest crown jewels A look at another main symbols of the capital on the British Islands. attraction of the Castle: and dominates the Old The legendary Stone of Every day except Sunday Town on a volcanic rock. Destiny has been part of at one o`clock they fire Kings were born here, the crowning ceremonies a gun. In 19th century prisoners imprisoned, of the Kings of Scotland, Edinburgh’s population set guests assassinated and England and the United their watches on the bang treasures stored. Visitors Kingdom for more than and sailors compared the pass through granite stone 1000 years. It`s not only chronometers. But why gates, see heavy artillery the Honours of Scotland at one o`clock and not at and enjoy the panoramic itself, which makes the visit noon? Common people views of the city. Entering of the museum worthwhile, say, it’s because the Scots the castle, the two statues but also the modern and are thrifty people. So why of the freedom fighters descriptive exhibition of fire twelve cannonballs, William Wallace and King Scottish Kings History when one will do? Robert the Bruce welcome as well. Visitors meet the visitors. figures of King Robert the It is recommended to Bruce or Mary Stuart, for discover the Castle in a The first castle was built example. guided tour or with an here in the Middle audio guide – minimum Ages, but apart from St. Also have a look into time three hours. Margaret’s Chapel and the royal apartments – apart of David’s Tower today also a setting for little has remained from official receptions. Quite this era. Not far from there impressive and a place of Crown Square with the silence and thoughtfulness Royal Palace, the Great is the National War Hall and the Scottish Memorial with the names National War Memorial of all Scottish soldiers represent the heart of the fallen since World War I. king’s castle. A must is the Those, who are interested visit of the museum with in the history of war, three the Honours of Scotland. military museums are well The beautiful crown, the worth a visit in the castle 149149 The Team