Wildflowers Poppies, Clover, Lupine, Verbena … We've Got More Blossoms Than Mother Nature

Cycling AZ: 10 of the State's Best Bike Routes

MARCH 2008

Wildflowers Poppies, clover, lupine, verbena … we've got more blossoms than Mother Nature.

PLUS: Native Treasure Exposed by Fire AND: Prescott's Hassayampa Inn The Coolest Diner in Metro Phoenix Spring Training History Lesson contents march 2008 YOU TALKIN’ TOME? of Phoenix.PhotographbyGeorgeStocking cactus blossoms,Arizona'sstateflower. Photograph byBruceD. Taubert attract nocturnal bats to their bright white petals. batstotheirbrightwhitepetals. attract nocturnal through thehills ofSaddleMountainnearTonopah, about50mileswest BACK COVER FRONT COVER Photograph byGeorge Raymond n n To order aprintofthis photograph,see informationonopposite page. To order aprintofthisphotograph, seeinformationonoppositepage. 40 34 22 14 Features Organ pipe cactus blooms, open for just one night, Organpipecactus blooms,openforjustonenight, A river of owl clover and Mexican goldpoppies runs riot AriverofowlcloverandMexicangoldpoppies runsriot PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON B. & RYAN B. STEVENSON &RYAN B. B. DON BY PHOTOGRAPHS old school. the to throwback this describe you’d how that’s unorthodoxmovie. … Homespun, no-nonsense, Capra aFrank of out straight acharacter — who’s Hamblen —Judge town in man one least at there’s Still, Falls. Bedford with confused never was Mesa Ranch, Dobson of days the in Even BEREZENKO NICK BY PHOTOGRAPHS CHILDS CRAIG BY Southwest. the in kivas known largest the of one center — ceremonial acentury place that includes a12th of ruins the unearthed blaze the landscape, the scorching of process the in out, turns it As different. are things later, years Afew inconceivable. in wildfire Arizona history, silver were linings largest the Rodeo-Chediski, of aftermath the In Nature. Mother than color more got we’ve see, you’ll —as verbena and clover poppies, with alive come pages our weather, the of Regardless in. come we where That’s unlikely. are wildflowers it, without and rare, is Rain guarantees. no are there desert, the In flowers. May bring In April Michigan and showers Massachusetts, on. Ride you. for right just that’s state this in route aroad-biking bar, there’s sissy and seat abanana with Stingray Schwinn Trek by a or Pro 6.9 aMadone ride you Whether Arizona. in road the hit to athlete elite an be to have don’t you but Mountains, Catalina Santa the in Tour France de the for trained Armstrong Lance Judge of Character Fire Under ColorIn Living Cycling Arizona Two curve-billedthrashers bickeratopsaguaro

BY KATHY MONTGOMERY BY CHRISTINE MAXA

48 48 44 5 4 3 2 Departments this Nature Conservancy property inthis Southern Nature Arizona. property Conservancy explore to reasons the of some just are history of dose ahealthy and water running Coatimundis, Loop: Springs Hot MONTH THE OF HIKE introduction. agreat offers drive loop this and at, scoff to nothing are cactuses pipe organ but Arizona, in attention the of most get Saguaros Drive: Mountain Ajo ADVENTURE ROAD BACK Inn. Hassayampa the of allure the and League the coolest diner in Phoenix, the of history the Cactus People, places and things from around the state, including THE JOURNAL TOLETTERS THE EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS EDITOR'S LETTER on line n Available Prints Photographic 866-962-1191 or arizonahighwaysprints.com. visit call To order, captions. in designated as purchase, for calendar of events. a for it take and Schwinn ol' the off Dust opportunities. spin using our expanded cycling guide. A guide. cycling expanded our using spin to see Picacho Peak from the saddle. the from Peak Picacho see to arizonahighways.com. at —all show slide month’s outdoor great for allows weather March valleys, the to you might see one of the most beautiful spectacles in the the in spectacles beautiful most the of one see might you WEEKEND GETAWAY MarchWEEKEND is the prime time Sonoran Desert — brightly colored fields of wildflowers. wildflowers. of fields colored —brightly Desert Sonoran mountains the From Arizona. over all out bustin' is Spring Plan a trip with our our EXPERIENCE with ARIZONA atrip Plan If the drought the stymies flowers, experience virtual blossoms through the magnificent photography in this this in photography magnificent the through blossoms

Prints of some photographs in this issue are available available are issue this in photographs some of Prints

arizonahighways.com long the way, the long

by Robert Stieve editor’s letter

JEFF KIDA 2 you ride a Madone 6.9 Pro by Trek or a Schwinn Stingray Stingray 6.9 Trek aMadone by you Pro ride or aSchwinn Whether roads. however, back state’s athlete, enjoy to the elite Tucson. near You don’t Mountains an be to have Catalina Santa Tour for the the in de France who trained Armstrong, Lance crave.” cyclists that topography road-biking classic the with rife is Arizona space, of open stretches breathtaking and descents twitching climbs, Arizona inCycling writes Maxa Christine As or no flowers. — flowers road. the hit and abike buy to is option good out or set Honda on foot. Another the in pile color, you living whether in flowers the see couch and the off you’ll get to want cooperates, weather the if course, Of there. being to thing best It’s next the Stocking. George McDonald, Robert Dykinga, —Jack contributors of best some phy our by won’t. we certainly you down, lets Nature Mother if So, even others. among verbena, and clover, lupines, globemallow poppies, with sunny. Too tell. sunny. will Time —it’s Christmas before —aweek column this Iwrite but as December, early in getFortunately, we acouple did of inches rain. winter of dose a good need they erupt, fully to flowers alot of for pop. have order In the doesn’t always explosion the Unfortunately, borealis. aurora of the version — it’s Arizona’s of wildflowers explosion annual desert’s our than spectacular Desert. Sonoran about the me think make flowers though, anything, tree.” More than asheltering is friendship flowerlike; love lovely; is “Flowers are poet: English

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TOM BEAN

Director of Sales &Marketing Sales of Director ter ma un for responsible not is and accept not does magazine The Repro Copy High Arizona POST N9A ON 6P2. WINDSOR, P.O. WORLD, 875, BOX QUEBECOR TO RETURNS 41220511. SEND (CANA PRODUCT office. mailing additional at and AZ, Phoenix, at paid postage Periodical to to Arizona Highway Arizona subscription cor subscription Send U.S. $3.99 copy: Single U.S. the outside $44 U.S., $24 a the in price: year Subscription Transportation. of Department Arizona highways on tv on highways 2006, 2004, 2002, 2001 Best Travel & In-transit Magazine Magazine &In-transit Travel Best 2001 2002, 2004, 2006, of our home page. page. home our of out the the click and arizonahighways.com visit more, and times winning show hosted by Robin Sewell. For broadcast broadcast For Sewell. Robin by hosted show winning For more coverage of the Grand Canyon State, check check State, Canyon Grand the of coverage more For William J. Feldmeier, Barbara Ann “Bobbie” Lundstrom, Lundstrom, “Bobbie” Ann Barbara J. Feldmeier, William 2000, 1997 Gold Awards Best Monthly Travel Magazine Travel Monthly Best Awards Gold 1997 2000, rzn Highways Arizona Director of Photography of Director Information Technology Promotions Director Art Books Associate Editor Books Members Editorial Administrator 2006, 2005, 2004, 2002, 2001 Magazine of the Year the of Magazine 2001 2002, 2004, 2005, 2006, Letters to the Editor the to Letters right © 2008 by the Ari the by ©2008 right Arizona Highways Television Highways Arizona Arizona Highways Television Highways Arizona ials. duc Society ofSociety American Travel Writers Foundation CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATIONS MAIL MAIL PUBLICATIONS INTERNATIONAL POST CANADA International Regional Magazine Association Book Division Editor Division Book Deputy Art Director Art Deputy Production Director Photography Editor Director Circulation 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 AZ Phoenix, Avenue, W.2039 Lewis Inquiries or orders or Inquiries For Corporate or Trade Sales Trade or Corporate For tion in whole or in part w part in or whole in tion Director, of Department Transportation Managing Editor Managing Finance Director Associate Editor Associate ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD way Vice Chairman Western Publications Association Map Designer

s Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, Andres Felipe Montoya, M. Robert Art Assistant Art Senior Editor Or visit Or s MARCH 2008 VOL. 84, NO. 3 NO. 84, VOL. 2008 MARCH ® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the the by monthly published is 0004-1521) ® (ISSN respon Art Director , P.O. Box 653, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0653. 61054-0653. IL , P.O. Morris, Mount 653, Box Webmaster DIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES AGREEMENT NO. NO. AGREEMENT SALES DISTRIBUTION) DIAN , P.O. Box 653, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0653. 61054-0653. IL , P.O. Morris, Mount 653, Box Publisher JANET NAPOLITANO JANET VICTOR M. MENDEZ Chairman Editor dence and change of address information information of address change and dence Victor M. Flores M. Victor P

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“But Hamblenlaidhimselfbare from thebe- “Fire seemslikeithasamindofitsown, CONTRIBUTORS The ArizonaRepublic.She’s livedinArizona gomery isaformereditorandreporter for ginning. Hissinceritywasdisarming.” Mont- gomery took on the assignment and headed gomery tookontheassignmentandheaded a profile, youusuallyneedtospendalotof ence he’dhadintrafficcourt.Hamblenwas over Weaver Peakwithherhusband. since 1996, and enjoys watching the sun set since 1996,andenjoyswatchingthe sunset spotted herand,afraidshe’dfallenthrough and obsidian statues,”herecalls. “Iremember the fires andgoingoutwithcrews.” Thelure? fiery sideofhispersonality. “MaybeI’mapy- spent halfhislifeinArizona,henowlivesoff sound ofthewindgroaning through these real JimmyStewartcharacter. KathyMont- right outofaCapramovie,thecallersaid.A time with your subject, hoping to catch them time withyoursubject,hopingtocatchthem the cracks,askedwhyshewasthere. Thenhe to theWest MesaJusticeCourt,where she research hisbook,HouseofRain.Itwasa romaniac,” headmits.“Igetaddictedtowild - the gridinWesternColorado. then exposedinthe2002Rodeo-Chediski proceeded tocharmher, too.“Whenwriting vation, Childswandered through thecharred when Childsjoinedanarchaeological digto work hasappeared inOutside, woodland. “Itwaslikewalkingthrough in unguarded moments,”Montgomerysays. hoped to sit quietly in the back and observe. hoped tositquietlyinthebackandobserve. It didn’t work. On the first morning, Hamblen It didn’tHamblen work.Onthefirstmorning, it’s alive.”Inspirationforthisstorysparked how Igottheidea,”hesays.Duringexca- kiva sitedestroyed byancientceremonial fire, For black trees.” Childshaswritten14books.His blaze. “Ijustthought,‘Fire onfire,’ andthat’s (see page 34), he indulged the Under Fire(seepage34),heindulgedthe Men’s Journal.ATempe nativewhohas Judge Hamblen Judge Hamblen 40) came to our 40) cametoour , page Character, page a reader called attention when (see to gush about a to gushabouta wonderful experi- symphony and symphony and uncharted river uncharted river Craig Childs Craig Childs trombone inthe for theL.A.Times. written a column written acolumn in Tibet, played played in Tibet, has rafted an has raftedan CHILDS CRAIG MONTGOMERY KATHY Backpacker Judge of Judge of

“creek shot”visionandpointedhiscameraat “[Photographer] Jack Dykinga and I have this “[Photographer] JackDykingaandIhavethis great clouds,”hesays. caused over $1,000 worth of damage,” he caused over$1,000worthofdamage,”he charred wastelandlittered withtree stumps only tofind…nothing.“Thearchaeologists assignment from hell,”hesays.First,noone says. He was forced to turn back and hike up, says. Hewasforcedbackandhikeup, toturn (see to Arizona.WhileshootingUnderFire(see the photographs,andeventuallymoved the magazineintotrash,andshe’dsneak to imaginationandluck:“There were alotof to capture spectacularphotographs,thanks that chewedupthebottomofhistruck.“It tions. So,hedrove onhisowntothearea, a the Forest Servicewouldn’t givehim direc When the boss finished reading, he’d toss finished reading, he’dtoss boss the When whose bosssubscribedtoArizonaHighways. work, hetrackeddownthesite’s name.But page 34), Berezenko found out how difficult page 34),Berezenkodifficult foundouthow it home to her family. They fell in love with with love in it hometoherfamily. fell They it can be to get those photos. “It was the the was it canbetogetthosephotos.“It had covered the kiva up!” He still managed managed had coveredstill thekivaup!”He knew where thesitewas.Through detective graphs haveappeared inNationalGeographic, exception. “Itookabout140pictures, butstill addition toArizonaHighways, Vezo’sphoto- lightwasbrilliant.Heabandonedhis afternoon land- and animals,they’re thesame.With can youphotographanimals?Ittakessomuch argument,” Vezo explains.“Jacksays,‘How scapes, I wait for the light. I’m always scapes, Iwaitforthelight.I’malways didn’t getanythingthatexcitedme,”hesays. the mountains.Missionaccomplished. In time itdoesn’t workout.”Thishikewasno andAudubon. Nature Conservancy waiting.’” WhenVezo hikedoutlater, the patience.’ I tell him, ‘Jack, I do both landscapes patience.’ Itellhim,‘Jack,dobothlandscapes Mountains reflected inBassCreek. “Ialways have avision,”Vezo says.“Andmostofthe Fortunately, thisavidbirder istenacious. ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM zona began in zona beganin a cleaning lady a cleaninglady a wastepaper up in Chicago, up inChicago, his mother was his motherwas Nick Berezenko’s journey toAri- journey basket. Growing 48), he had a 48), hehada BEREZENKO NICK the Galiuro Month (seepage Hike ofthe ventured outto When Tom Vezo vision: to shoot vision: toshoot photograph the photograph the TOM VEZO

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PEOPLEJournal RESTAURANTS LODGING PHOTOGRAPHY HISTORY NATURE THINGS TO DO Moving Pictures I awakened for some reason at 5 a.m. to a cold fall morning here in New England. With a cup of coffee in hand, I opened my December letters issue of Arizona Highways. Being mesmerized by the Editor’s Letter, I began reading from cover to cover. The stories were so moving; the photography so outstanding that at times I found myself in tears. Thank you from a sometimes visitor to Arizona and a longtime reader of Arizona Highways. Betty Ripsom, Chelmsford, Massachusetts

First Time for Everything Getting to see the San Francisco Peaks, be ordered online at arizonahighways.com.

arizonahighways.com I’m a first-time subscriber, first-time my favorite little town of Jerome, and We’d hate to have you miss another year. @ writer, so bear with me. I just wanted to the view of Cottonwood from Mingus say that your magazine is very inspiring Mountain was a thrill. I also enjoyed the Thrown for a Loop editor and inviting. What I mean by that is article titled The Inner World of Stone. In My husband and I drove to Organ Pipe this: It says, “Get up and come on over all my visits, I’ve never been to the Cactus National Monument mentioned and visit us.” I’ve never been west of Petrified Forest, but after seeing the in your September issue [Hikes to Write Erie, Pennsylvania. I’m a Native Ameri- beautiful photos by the talented Bill Home About, page 22]. To our surprise can, of the Seneca Tribe of the Iroquois Atkinson, I can’t wait to go. I didn’t (and, admittedly, we are Midwesterners), Confederacy. I live here in New York realize how amazing petrified wood is. we were greeted at the door to the state on the Allegany Indian Reservation. In addition, fall is such a beautiful visitors center with a large sign eulogiz- I’d like to come visit your beautiful state season, and I love Halloween, so this ing the death of a young ranger there. someday. The photographs, people and issue was also perfect for getting me in Apparently, it’s no longer safe to wander stories of that part of the country are the spirit. I have a busy schedule, but this area due to the prevalence of drug breathtakingly memorable. There’s just this issue reminded me of how great fall runners and illegal aliens. The camp- so much to see and do, I wouldn’t know is and made me stop and take a moment ground is closed, and the 52-mile where to start. Unbelievable. I plan on to appreciate that. My birthday also falls driving route is closed after the 6-mile keeping my yearly subscription, and I in October, so this issue was an unex- marker. We just drove the 21-mile loop thank you very much for publishing pected and much appreciated birthday and enjoyed that. I’m not a political such an exquisite magazine. surprise. Thanks again for reminding person, so I’m not writing this to Jon Dowdy, Salamanca, New York me how special Arizona is each and comment on drugs or immigration every month. policies, but it’s just kind of sad. I’ve never written a letter to the editor Lauren Adduci, Loveland, Ohio Katherine Gorski, Champaign, Illinois before, but I was so inspired and moved by the October issue I felt compelled to Through the Years editor’s note: You’re not alone, Katherine. write and give a heartfelt thanks for such I don’t know if it’s of any value to you or According to the National Park Service, the issue an amazing issue. I felt like every article not, but every year I give a calendar to of illegal immigrants is serious, in terms of both and picture was fantastic, and I read it each of my sons and married grandchil- safety and the environment. “Most criminals cover to cover several times throughout dren for their birthdays. I missed one operate after dark and in remote areas of the the month. I have relatives who live in year and really heard about it. Everyone park,” government officials report. To help Cottonwood, and they kindly intro- loves the photos in your calendar. protect visitors, some of the roads in the national duced me to your wonderful magazine. Betty Finton, Kingman monument have been closed. However, much of I’ve made several trips to visit them, and the park remains open, including the scenic loop have enjoyed many travels throughout editor’s note: Thank you, Betty. Your drive, which we feature in this month’s Back the northern part of the state. Unfortu- support is extremely valuable to us. We’re very Road Adventure; see page 44. For safety tips nately, too much time has passed since proud of the photography we feature in our and other information, visit nps.gov/orpi. my last visit, so I really enjoyed this annual calendars, as well as in our books and issue in particular. It contained many of magazines. By the way, we’ve recently rede- Hidden Treasure the familiar sites I’ve been missing. signed our Web site and all of our products can I recently inherited the family home here in Barrie, Ontario. While cleaning the attic of close to a century of accumu- contact us lated “stuff,” I came across your maga- If you have thoughts or comments about anything in Arizona Highways, we’d zine. To my knowledge, my parents Like Chocolate for Water Taller than Niagara Falls but practically unknown, the Grand Falls of the Little love to hear from you. We can be reached at [email protected], or never traveled to Arizona, but they obviously enjoyed your magazine and Colorado River — nicknamed “Chocolate Falls” — flows just east of Flagstaff on the by mail at 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85009. For more information, Navajo Nation. It’s dry most of the year, but in March and April, during the spring visit arizonahighways.com. added it to their “treasures.” runoff, this cocoa-colored cataract plunges 185 feet n Information: 928-679-2303 Elaine Smith, Barrie, Ontario, Canada BILL HATCHER

4 m a r c h 2 0 0 8 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 5 the Journal

CELEBRITY Q&A RESTAURANTS Derrick Hall President, And then there’s dessert — a key part of the MacAlpine’s Arizona Diamondbacks MacAlpine’s experience. The old-fashioned shakes are made with six by Dave Pratt Now in its 80th year, the coolest soda scoops of ice cream, and they’re blended in a jadeite-green fountain in Phoenix is serving ice cream, Hamilton Beach shake machine. AH: If you were making a For a bonus blast from the past, you can browse the solo road trip to Sedona burgers and a blast from the past. antiques store attached to the diner — look for things like — no wife, no kids, no a 1960s carousel horse and old phone booths. Although Arizona Diamondbacks 1928. a lot happened that year. Walt Disney released you might leave the shop empty-handed, you won’t leave — which would you choose: his first Mickey Mouse cartoon. Penicillin was discovered. MacAlpine’s with an empty stomach. They’ve been making Harley-Davidson or Mustang And MacAlpine’s, a small pharmacy in Central Phoenix, sure of that for 80 years now. convertible? opened its doors. The world has changed a lot since then, but n MacAlpine’s is located at 2303 N. Seventh Street in Phoenix. DH: Without question, I’d the pharmacy, which became MacAlpine’s Restaurant & Soda For more information, visit macalpinessodafountain.com or call choose the Harley. I’d feel one Fountain in 1991, has remained about the same. 602-262-5545. — Hilary Griffith with the land on my bike. There are so many beautiful sites in Like most old drugstores, Mac- Sedona; it would be nice to Alpine’s featured a soda counter,

JEFF KIDA have the freedom of the motor- which, although cracked and rusted, cycle, to just pull over anywhere, still stands today. In addition, the PEOPLE and then they’d buy the “recipe” for shrunken anytime, to take in the scenery, walls are covered with nostalgic pieces, heads in the gift shop. (Visit today and you’ll without worrying about where including a huge Wrigley’s Gum sign see perhaps the finest collection of Indian to park. and a Coca-Cola poster; several diner Norma Jean artifacts, jewelry and contemporary art in the AH: What’s your favorite booths with miniature jukeboxes The Heard Museum is world-renowned, nation, but no shriveled bodies.) place in Arizona and what’s complete the vintage feel. and for nearly 50 years, Norma Jean In those days, Coulter and other guild your favorite memory? Cary Heizenrader has owned the Coulter has been donating her valuable members traveled around the state scout- DH: My favorite place, not only restaurant with his wife, Monica, time to this precious repository. ing out talented native dancers to perform at in Arizona, but also in the world, for seven years. He appreciates the events. Now, the best dancers in the country is Sedona. … I can remember history of MacAlpine’s, and tries to blindfolding a museum, to most people, is a series come to them. Guild members also hosted my wife for incorporate the building’s past into of exhibits. To Norma Jean Coulter, it’s an Indian artists in their homes. “It was a fam- her first visit, the present. extended family. Since 1962, Coulter has vol- ily affair, a bonding experience,” she says. driving her up “A lot of former employees and unteered at the Heard Museum, guiding tours, Though visiting artists now stay in hotels, Airport Road, customers come in, and they haven’t serving as guild president for two years, and the family atmosphere continues. “They’re walking her seen the place for 15 or 20 years,” he helping foster the museum’s growth from a still guests in our home,” she says. Home, of out slowly to says. “We haven’t changed anything.” family run affair to a world-class destination. course, being the museum. near the edge The couple hopes to hear from oth- Despite being a history buff, Coulter would As the museum evolved, so did its volun- of the scenic ers who remember the place fondly. marker, and never have guessed she’d devote so much teers. “In the ’60s and ’70s, women came to Well-known fans from the past then watching of her life to the Heard. Born in Tucson, she the museum to help,” Coulter says. “Today, the look of joy include Barry Goldwater and his studied history at the University of Arizona, there’s a tremendous desire for learning.” and amaze- family, Wayne Newton and Frank where she met her husband, Rufus, then a Coulter’s own thirst for knowledge and love ment on her Lloyd Wright. law student. After graduation, they moved to of her home state prompted her to join the face when she first set eyes on Naturally, the hostesses and serv- Phoenix, and it was there that a friend nudged Arizona Historical Society, where she served the whole valley there. ers dress in retro black-and-white Coulter into volunteering. “She said, ‘You’re as president from 2004 to 2006. She also AH: If you had designed the skirted diner uniforms, designed the wife of a prominent attorney, you have to taught Arizona history and government to new Arizona quarter, what with help from Amanda Newsum. If get involved,’ ” Coulter recalls. junior high students. would you have put on it? you’re lucky, you’ll meet Amanda, a The friend ushered her around cultural You can still find Coulter volunteering DH: I’d have put the 2001 perky waitress who looks like a cross institutions brimming with sophisticated at the Heard Museum shop, likely wearing Arizona Diamondbacks World between Betty Boop and Betty Grable, ladies dressed to the nines. Their last stop Indian jewelry and Levis. If you do, be sure to Series celebration image on with her pinned-up hairdo and a was the Heard Museum, where, in addi- ask her about the early days of the museum’s there ... or the Grand Canyon. 1940s red polka-dot dress. tion to the hats-and-gloves entourage, there fair, when they gave away a burro, or anything That’s what defines our great The food, like the ambience, is state, and it’s why we have our were women in Levis and traditional Indian else about Arizona history. “I’m very much an simple, with several hot and cold name. It’s one of the wonders of dresses. Coulter had found her place. “I was Arizonan,” she says. “Working at the museum the world, and it deserves a spot sandwiches and four salads — noth- also comfortable there because it was about gives me the chance to showcase and talk on our currency. ing is more than $8. Standard diner history,” she says. about Arizona.” fare is what MacAlpine’s does best. In 1962, the museum looked nothing like it n The 50th annual Heard Museum Guild Indian — Dave Pratt is the host of the The tuna salad sandwich is popular, does today, she says. It was a sleepy little place Fair & Market takes place March 1-2. For infor- “Dave Pratt in the Morning” show and the Mac burger will make you on KMLE 107.9 FM in Phoenix. where fourth-graders took field trips to ogle mation, call 602-252-8848 or visit heard.org. think twice about ever ordering fast-

a mummy and a lineup of shrunken heads, — Keridwen Cornelius food again. JEFF KIDA

6 m a r c h 2 0 0 8 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 7 the Journal

PHOTOGRAPHY Up Close and Personal If you’re looking for an excuse to get outside, grab your camera and a zoom lens, and enter the world of macro photography. JEFF KIDA In the two photos above, depth of field is controlled using the aperture, or opening, of the lens. The image on the left was shot at f-5.6; the one on the “All photography is about patterns.” right at f-32. How much to isolate your subject is a personal choice and is — Gary Ladd, photographer very easy to control.

march in arizona. The boys of summer have checked shop or having the dog’s teeth cleaned. Photographers must their cleats at spring-training facilities, and preseason baseball decompress from even these mundane distractions. Literally, is under way. Agua Fria Freddie, Arizona’s version of Punx- you need to free up your mind in order to focus on image-

DAVID H. SMITH DAVID sutawney Phil, has spied his shadow, and if the winter rains making. And one of the best ways to do that photographi- have been generous, desert wildflowers will be in bloom all cally is by concentrating on making close-up images. Why? LODGING over the place. What better time to break out the camera gear? Because when done well, this type of photography is uncom- Not enough time for a weekend getaway? Not a problem. plicated and elegant. — urged local citizens to invest in the project. In the end, 400 Think small — in terms of both time and scope — and con- Start by putting together a small kit with one camera and a Hassayampa Inn different stockholders purchased thousands of stocks for $1 sider the intricate and amazing world of macro (close-up) macro lens — or a zoom lens with a macro mode. If you don’t When it comes to historic hotels in Arizona, this per share. photography. No kidding, in a space no larger than the face have either one, there are close-up filters (diopters) that can be one, built two years before the famed Biltmore Today, the four-story Hassayampa is privately owned, and of your wristwatch, there are entire botanical universes to be threaded onto the front of existing lenses, allowing you to get it’s still impressive. Although the exterior looks more like explored. in tight with your subject. This is an affordable and surpris- Resort in Phoenix, is one of the very best. something you’d see in one of the Dakotas, the interior is dis- If you’re one of those people who always seem to be on the ingly sharp option for photographing close-ups. Pack a cable tinctly Southwest, particularly the lobby, which features an go, doing close-up work is an easy way to slow down, settle release and a tripod. Add drinking water, a couple of granola “if aladdin had lived in these modern days, he incredible hand-stenciled, wood-beamed ceiling. It’s gorgeous. in and relax. Photography like this should be kept simple bars, and you’re ready to explore. would not have thought of building a palace, but would have And then there’s the antique furniture, the chandeliers and the — think specifically of patterns and design. Soft light created by open shade or clouds is the best light- commanded the genie to transport him and his fair bride to polished Talavera tile. The tile and the chandeliers are origi- Many of the most accomplished landscape photographers ing condition for working in close. If it’s sunny, look for sub- the Hassayampa Inn.” nal, and so is the Chinese-red, hand-operated elevator. will tell you that upon arriving at an unfamiliar location, jects that are backlit, because doing so will keep your subject That’s what the Journal Miner of Prescott had to say about Along with the elegant porte cochere — the covered pas- they’ll scan all horizons to get a sense of place. Their next in soft, even light, allowing for simplicity in composition. the Hassayampa when it opened its doors in November 1927. sageway into the hotel — the elevator is one of the things order of business is to start shooting details. Not wide views Watch your background, use your tripod and stop down your High praise, to be sure, but relative to everything else in the you’ll remember most about the Hassayampa. It’s a link to the or panoramas, but textures and nuances. By concentrating on lens in order to carry sharp focus throughout. And remember, mile-high city, it was a big deal — not unlike the opening past, and even though it’s probably quicker to take the stairs small vignettes, they begin to get a rhythm of the place and the closer you get to a subject (to magnify), the less the depth of the Biltmore in Phoenix two years later. No doubt, Grace to your room, a ride in the elevator is a must. their own photographic vision. of field will be. Sparkes was all smiles on the day of the Hassayampa’s debut. Either way, the rooms are cozy and furnished with the inn’s This might sound unnecessary for a working professional, Take your time, compose, simplify and be grateful — you’re Sparkes, who had been a secretary at the chamber of com- original oak furniture. And thanks to a major renovation a but it takes time for all photographers to unwind from the out of the office on a beautiful day. merce in Yavapai County, first pitched the idea of a first-class few years ago, they’re immaculate. Never mind that the floors responsibilities of daily life — unfinished reports, a car in the — Jeff Kida, Photo Editor hotel in 1919. There was a practical reason, of course — auto- are a little uneven, and the hallways tend to creak, that only mobiles were sweeping the nation, and tourists needed a place adds to the character of the place — a place Sam Peckinpah to spend the night — but more than that, she envisioned a used as the setting for Junior Bonner, his 1972 movie starring PHOTO TIP background can greatly change the feel speed as you change the lens opening. and effectiveness of your final image. With today’s digital technology, you can palatial point of pride that could offset the seediness of nearby Steve McQueen. Like the Hassayampa, Junior Bonner is one Whiskey Row. It took awhile, but the town’s civic leaders of Prescott’s claims to fame. It didn’t make as much money as This is simply a matter of choice. Try then check the LCD on the back of the photographing the same object using camera and choose the image you like. eventually embraced the idea and issued the Hassayampa Aladdin, but where would you rather sleep, in a room named When shooting close-ups, careful consideration should be given to the different f-stops. If you are using the Hotel Company prospectus, paving the way for what would for a guy who carries a lamp, or the Steve McQueen Room? editor’s note: Look for Arizona Highways interplay of composition and depth of “aperture priority” mode, the camera Photography Guide, coming this month. For become a publicly owned hotel. Enough said. field. On one hand, you want the will choose the appropriate shutter more books, visit arizonahighways.com. A few years later, in 1925, the Prescott Kiwanis Club n The Hassayampa Inn is located at 122 E. Gurley Street in critical portions of your subject to be appointed a committee to raise funds for the hotel, and Mayor Prescott. For more information, call 800-322-1927 or visit sharp and in focus. On the other hand, online For more photography tips and information, visit arizonahighways.com Morris Goldwater — the uncle of Senator Barry Goldwater hassayampainn.com. — Robert Stieve choosing the amount of detail in the and click on “Photography.”

8 m a r c h 2 0 0 8 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 9 the Journal

HISTORY NATURE In 1951, the New York demolished in 1976 and later Yankees were co-owned by reborn as HoHoKam Park. Arizona’s Pastime Phoenix developer Del Its field was eventually They All Fall Down “Since I’m a mineralogist, I asked myself, ‘What is this?’ I Spring training has been a hit in the Grand Canyon Webb. Eager to be close to named for Patterson, whom Despite their sheer size and seniority, even remember collecting a piece … and subjecting it to powder State for more than 60 years, and it all began with his team, Webb asked many consider the Father of X-ray diffraction [a method geologists use to identify miner- Stoneham to swap spring- Cactus League Baseball. saguaros eventually die, and when they do, als].” The material was composed of an unusual form of cal- one of baseball’s great innovators. training sites for one year, Over the years, those another world comes to life. cium carbonate called monohydrocalcite — a mineral never bringing the Yankees — original teams experienced before found in Arizona. the story of spring Indians owner Bill Veeck including Joe DiMaggio and a series of changes. The laurence garvie has seen something even the most The discovery isn’t likely to cause a mining stampede to the training in Arizona begins, was frustrated with Florida’s Mickey Mantle — to Cubs were based in Mesa for devoted desert rat has rarely witnessed. Several years ago, the state, but that won’t stop Garvie from prospecting for more appropriately, with a pitch. spring-training scene. Segre- Phoenix, while the Giants 14 years, left for a short stop mineralogist was caught in a storm in the South Maricopa scientific discoveries. “I’ve found that the desert is just burst- It was 1946, and Cleveland gation laws prevented mixed- shifted to Florida. in California and a long Mountains Wilderness south of Phoenix. He thought he’d ing with research opportunities,” he says. “Every time I go out race games, and the Indians’ That move enticed Philip stretch in Scottsdale, and weathered the worst of it when a sudden downdraft set a there, I find something new.” — Adleheid Fischer new black player, Larry Wrigley, owner of the Chic- then headed back to Mesa in nearby saguaro swaying. Garvie knew Doby, was forced to stay in a ago Cubs, to ship his team 1979. The New York Giants this 20-foot giant well. For months, dur- separate hotel. In addition, from Catalina Island in Cali- morphed into the San Fran- ing research forays into the desert, he’d crowds were sparse and rain fornia to Phoenix for exhibi- cisco Giants and moved to noticed a gummy black liquid oozing regularly canceled games. tion games against the Yanks. Scottsdale Stadium. The from openings in the cactus’ skin. He Veeck wanted to transfer Wrigley loved — and owned Indians migrated to Florida knew the plant’s days were numbered. to Tucson, where he owned — most of Catalina Island, in 1993 to be closer to their The wounds signaled that fungi and bac- a ranch, but he knew his but his team was essentially fan base. In addition, several teria had begun to attack its moist inner team needed competition. marooned from competition, other ball clubs switched tissues. Once infected, saguaros turn into So, he pitched an idea to so he’d been on the lookout between the Grapefruit and bags of decaying, fetid goo. Horace Stoneham, owner of for a mainland site. Cactus leagues and traded “I heard this weird squelching, crack- the New York Giants: “Me, Meanwhile, Mesa rancher stadiums within Arizona. ing sound,” Garvie recalls. “The top half Tucson, you, Phoenix?” and builder Dwight W. Pat- Now boasting nine teams of the saguaro blew down, but its ribs Thus sprouted the first terson formed a group called in Metro Phoenix and three went flying back up, flinging bits of rot- seeds of the Cactus League. the HoHoKams, which was in Tucson, the Cactus League ten black flesh all over the desert in a The Indians and Giants determined to recruit a is blooming, with atten- 200-foot radius. The air was filled with a were happy with the major league team to Mesa’s dance topping 1.2 million in putrefying sweet smell. It was quite spec- Grand Canyon State (with Rendezvous Park. Webb and 2007. And those numbers tacular.” the Giants leaving for two Patterson joined forces to are likely to grow when Joe Garvie, a faculty research associate in years, only to return), but connect the Cubs with Mesa. Torre and his Los Angeles the School of Earth & Space Exploration it wasn’t until 1952 that Upon seeing the park, Wid Dodgers, as well as the at Arizona State University, has become another team from Matthews, the Cubs director Cleveland Indians, make the something of an authority on dead sagua- Florida’s Grapefruit of player personnel, declared, switch to Arizona in 2009. ros. Turns out, saguaros are as valuable to League would join “This is it.” Let the games begin. the desert dead as they are alive. them, and only after Rendezvous Park was — Keridwen Cornelius Composed of up to 90 percent water,

a fortuitous chain Hall of Famer Ernie Banks (left) played his entire career (1953-1971) with the the flesh of a newly downed saguaro of events. Chicago Cubs. Photograph courtesy of Mesa Convention and Visitors Bureau forms what Garvie calls an “organic moist soup that’s teeming with life.” Scientists at the University of Arizona, for example, THIS MONTH IN HISTORY dissected 1 cubic foot of rotting saguaro and found 413 arthropods, larval flies, ■ In March 1939, Clark Gable and Carole Lombard were pseudo-scorpions and mites. married in a private ceremony in Kingman; they In addition, Garvie started noticing honeymooned at the Oatman Hotel. chunks of bone-colored material, as light ■ On March 15, 1878, Tombstone founder Ed Schieffelin and porous as pumice, heaped around the 50 filed a claim for his Lucky Cuss Mine. He later sold bare woodlike ribs of saguaro remains. RANDY PRENTICE his shares for $600,000 in what would grow to be a years ago $40 million operation. in arizona highways ■ As recently as 1945, there were folks in Arizona who nature factoid thought the courtroom was no place for a woman, In a typical year, the Sonoran Desert comes alive in the spring with a SPHINX MOTHS wave of spectacular wildflowers. Among other things, our March but on March 8, 1945, the Arizona Senate passed, by Throughout Arizona’s deserts, adult sphinx moths pollinate deep-fluted flowers using their 1958 issue celebrated the state’s unique flora with stories and a vote of 15-3, a bill allowing women to legally serve very long tongues, or proboscises, like straws to suck the flowers’ nectar. These insects, also photographs of wildflowers, mesquite trees and Arizona’s cotton on juries. known as hawk moths, are sometimes called hummingbird moths because of their ability to industry.

MARTY CORDANO fly very fast and hover in flight.

10 m a r c h 2 0 0 8 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 11 the Journal

THINGS TO DO

cessnas, pipers and Flying Swifts, as well as mono- planes, biplanes, war birds and historic World War II High training aircraft will fill the MAR skies above Casa Grande BOB MAYTUM March 7-8 during the Dream Machines 7-8 Arizona Antique Aircraft If your tastes run more to T-birds Association’s 50th Annual than war birds, don’t miss Yuma’s Cactus Fly-In. Considered Midnight at the Oasis Festival one of the premier avia- March 2-4, featuring more than tion events of the 900 vintage vehicles — MAR season, the fly-in everything from Model T’s features squadrons to muscle cars. Filling four of antique, classic, rep- 2-4 baseball fields, the display Photography Tip #71 lica and homebuilt aircraft, gives classic-car buffs a chance to all of which offer enthusiasts drool over their dream machines. TERRY L. EMIG Using contrasting colors to create a look at aviation’s history n Information: 928-343-1715 or excitement is an effective technique and heritage. caballeros.org. in photography. In this case, the red of n Information: 520-836-7447 or cactusflyin.org. the kayak jumps out of a cobalt-blue sky reflected in the water. The colors Birds of a are natural opposites that act as yin Feather and yang compositionally. it’s not a historic mis- sion, and the birds aren’t as famous as the swallows of San Juan Capistrano, but Arizona’s version of a natural mystery takes place this month at Boyce Thompson Western Exposure Arboretum State Park. On Some folks think the word cow- March 22, the annual boy is more about what you do MAR Welcome Back Buzz- than who you are. And that’s the ards event celebrates spirit at the National Festival of 22 the park’s resident MAR the West celebration VICTOR LESHYK flock of turkey vultures as in Chandler. Join the they return from their winter hoedown March 13-18 grounds in Mexico. Early 13-18 as Rawhide at Wild Horse Bare Bones birds will get the best views. Pass presents the best of the it’s massive, it’s menacing and it’s a mystery. 1-31 MAR Be there from dawn until Old West. The festival includes The strangest dinosaur skeleton ever discovered around 9 a.m.; after that, the a Western music jamboree, a in the United States comes from a 13-foot-tall, 1-ton, sickle- vultures leave their cliffside Western film festival, a chuck- clawed and feathered creature that roamed the Southwest (as perches to soar above the des- wagon cook-off, a Western trade well as China and Mongolia) 93 million years ago. In 2000, ert in search of carrion. Colleen Miniuk-Sperry show featuring 200 vendors, paleontologists from Flagstaff’s Museum of Northern Arizona n Information: 520-689-2811. cowboy poetry, square dancing excavated a complete therizinosaur skeleton in southern Utah, and more. Kids can learn about giving them clues about this prehistoric animal’s life on Earth. Photography Learn From the Best Our newest book brings together 14 of our the history of the West, including Named for its most striking feature — three enormous claws Workshops most respected photographers — seasoned the role of Arizona’s 9th Cavalry on each front foot — the dinosaur raises more questions than If you’d like to learn from the best Buffalo Soldiers and Mountain it answers. The museum’s exhibit, Therizinosaur: Mystery of veterans who share their tips, techniques professional photographers in the Men — there will be demonstra- the Sickle-Claw Dinosaur, allows visitors to learn about one of business, sign up for one of the and favorite Arizona locations. tions featuring authentic clothing science’s most bizarre dinosaurs by examining a freestanding many photography workshops from the 1800s. skeleton cast from the animal’s original bones, the genuine conducted by the Friends of n Information: 602-996-4387 or 93 million-year-old bones, and scientific illustrations created Arizona Highways. Order now and save 10% off the retail price of $24.95.(Use promo code 583) festivalofthewest.com. by artist and guest curator Victor Leshyk. n Information: 888-790-7042 or Visit arizonahighways.com or call 800-543-5432. n Information: 928-774-5213 or musnaz.org. friendsofazhighways.com.

Offer expires March 31, 2008. Use item code #APGS7. Shipping and handling not included. You can also visit our retail location at 2039 W. Lewis Avenue in Phoenix. 12 m a r c h 2 0 0 8 PEDAL METTLE Mount Lemmon HighwayPEDAL presents METTLE a 6,203-foot Mount Lemmon elevationHighway gain through presents seven a 6,203-foot life zones toelevation challenge gain cyclists through seven undauntedlife zonesby the to 30-mile challenge cyclists enduranceundaunted test from by Tucson the 30-mile to Summerhaven.endurance Photograph test from byTucson Edward toMcCain/Jupiterimages Summerhaven. Photograph by Edward McCain

Lance Armstrong trained for the Tour de France in the Santa Catalina Mountains, but you don’t have to be an elite athlete to hit the road in Arizona. Whether you ride a Madone 6.9 Pro by Trek or a Schwinn Stingray with a banana seat and sissy bar, there’s a road-biking route in this state that’s just right for you. Ride on.

By Christine Maxa

14 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 15 North Rim Parkway Peak Season: May-October The North Rim of the Grand Canyon gets a fraction of the Difficulty: Moderate/Intermediate crowds that flock to the South Rim, but that’s only part of the Nearest Town: Flagstaff allure. The North Rim also offers one of the state’s best road- Getting There: From Flagstaff, drive north biking routes. The Kaibab Plateau-North Rim Parkway (State on State Route 89 for approximately 13 miles to Route 67) is lined with aspen-fir forests, spectacular meadows, the signed turnoff for Sunset Crater National gentle hills and plenty of wildlife. Plus, the route is all downhill Monument. The cycling route begins at Sunset on the way back. No wonder Flagstaff cyclist Frank Loro calls Crater National Monument’s visitors center and leads it “one of the seven wonders of the cycling world.” to Wupatki National Monument and back again. Length: 45 miles, one way Keep in Mind: There’s an entrance fee of $5, which is good Elevation Gain: 2,175 feet for seven days at both monuments. Elevation Descent: 1,870 feet Information: 928-526-0502 or nps.gov/sucr Peak Season: May-October Difficulty: Moderate/Intermediate Nearest Town: Jacob Lake Iron Springs Road Getting There: The cycling route begins at Jacob Lake. From Nicknamed the Back Road to Prescott, this scenic road- there, ride south on State Route 67. biking route starts in the ponderosa-pine area of Prescott Keep in Mind: A $20 entrance fee is required to drive into National Forest, glides past giant boulders near Granite the national park; $10 for individuals on bicycles. The road Mountain, then twists and turns down to the high-desert closes at the first snowfall (sometime after October 15) and floor in scenic Skull Valley. The second half of the route winds reopens May 15. through a series of volcanic-tuff hoodoos near Kirkland, where Information: 928-643-7298, nps.gov/grca or fs.fed.us/r3/kai masons quarried the material to make the blocks used to build the state capitol in Phoenix. Length: 26 miles, one way Sunset Crater Loop Elevation Gain: 1,296 feet One of the San Francisco Lava Field’s most infamous erup- Elevation Descent: 2,565 feet tions — the blast that created Sunset Crater — happened along Peak Season: March-May; September-November this route. Riding from south to north, the route begins in a Difficulty: Moderate/Intermediate pine forest separated by meadows that fill with wildflowers Nearest Town: Prescott in August. Within a few miles, Sunset Crater comes into view, Getting There: From Gurley and Montezuma streets in followed by the lava flows, which blacken the landscape. Next, downtown Prescott, drive north on Montezuma Street to a R TH IM R PA a descent of a few thousand feet takes you into the lap of the parking area at Milepost 215 on Iron Springs Road. The cycling O R N Painted Desert, where ancient Sinaguan people built homes in route begins at Iron Springs Road, heading west. K DONALD C

W a place we call Wupatki. This route, with its incredible panora- Keep in Mind: You can return to Prescott from Kirkland, or

A Y mas and cultural history, is a favorite of veteran Tucson cyclist (if you have strong climbing legs) you can turn left (east) onto Richard Corbett, who prefers riding the route from north to Thompson Valley Road, go 4 miles to Kirkland Junction, and ROBERT G. M south. “It’s just plain fun,” he says. then turn left (north) onto State Route 89 and pedal 16 steep Length: 46-mile loop mountain miles to the route’s high point, and then coast the Elevation Gain: 3,076 feet last 5 miles to Prescott. Elevation Descent: 3,073 feet Information: 928-443-8000 or fs.fed.us/r3/prescott

Hiking is a big deal in Arizona. And rightfully so — few places Reeves, a former Phoenix racer who now leads Elderhostel bicy- offer the kind of diversity that’s found in the Grand Canyon cle tours. “Cycling gets into your soul.” State. Turns out, cycling is something special, too. With its What follows are 10 of the state’s best places to feed your rolling hills and soft curves knit with steely climbs, twitching road-cycling soul. There are other great routes, of course, but descents and breathtaking stretches of open space, Arizona is this should be enough to get you rolling. rife with the classic road-biking topography that cyclists crave. Indeed, the sight of cyclists clad in bright Lycra is increasing as word gets out that Arizona has some of the best routes in the Hworld. RATING THE ROUTES And there’s something for everyone, from the mountains that Easy/Beginner: Generally flat terrain; manage- provide training for cyclists competing in the Tour de France able for beginners. and its rival, the Paris-Brest-Paris Randonneur; to the state’s Moderate/Intermediate: Hill climbs, curves or high-spirited and scenic blue highways, where resident cyclists moderate traffic; comfortable for cyclists with spend their weekends; to the mild-mannered bike paths where some experience. families get a chance to enjoy the outdoors and catch a glimpse of the state’s grandeur. Difficult/Experienced: Steep climbs, mountainous “I guess it doesn’t matter if you race and are addicted to that terrain and blind spots; for experienced cyclists looking for a challenge. sound when the pack is working in perfect sync, or if you cycle RATER C T L O MANEVITZ LES DAVID alone on a Sunday morning and celebrate each peak,” says Dan E S O

N P

16 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COMU 17 S Sedona to Jerome Bush Highway Starting in Sedona, this scenic ride winds past the beau- Of all the roads that lead to the state’s desert lakes, this is the tiful Dry Creek Canyon area in Red Rock-Secret Mountain most bicycle-friendly because of its designated bike lane along Wilderness. As it heads west, picking up the state-designated the first 6 miles. The desert scenery on this route includes Jerome-Clarkdale-Cottonwood Historic Road, the route tra- stunning panoramas and unique peaks. A pleasing pungency verses an impressive stretch of open space — former range- wafts from the riparian forest along a segment of the Salt River, land for the cowboys who gathered along the Verde River near and the climb out from the Salt River drainage offers plenty of Cottonwood. From there, the route joins the same route that kick for cyclists. Even beginners can handle the first half. The is part of Arizona’s three-day, 325-mile-long “Answer to the second half — a little brash, sometimes nerve-jangling, but Challenge” endurance event. Phoenix-area cyclist Tom Baker, always beautiful — winds along the Goldfield Mountains, past one of the masterminds of the Challenge event and a repeat Saguaro Lake, and then up to the Beeline Highway (State Route participant in France’s Paris-Brest-Paris event (750 miles in 70 87) for even more dramatic panoramas. hours), knows how tough this segment can get as it climbs from Length: 15 miles, one way the Verde River in Cottonwood up to Jerome. “Besides having Elevation Gain: 1,068 feet enough food and water, you have to plan how you’re going to Elevation Descent: 490 feet feel,” he explains. The demanding climb eventually takes you Peak Season: October-March into Jerome on a segment of road as capricious as the old ghost Difficulty: Moderate/Intermediate town itself. Nearest Town: Mesa Length: 29 miles, one way Getting There: From Phoenix, go east on State Route 202 Elevation Gain: 2,424 feet and turn left (north) on Higley Road. From there, go 0.2 miles, Elevation Descent: 1,793 feet turn right (east) onto Thomas Road and continue 1 mile to Peak Season: March-June; September-November Bush Highway. The route begins on Bush Highway, riding Difficulty: Difficult/Experienced northward. Nearest Towns: Sedona, Jerome, Cottonwood, Clarkdale Keep in Mind: The first 6 miles have a designated bike lane. Getting There: From the “Y” intersection at State Route 179 Information: 602-225-5200 or fs.fed.us/r3/tonto and State Route 89A in Sedona, the route heads west on State Route 89A. Keep in Mind: The 4-mile stretch outside of Jerome requires experience with narrow and steep grades. Information: 928-301-1134 or vvcc.us

Mogollon Rim Traveling across the eastern end of Arizona’s 2,000-foot-high Mogollon Rim gives an idea of just how lazy and lovely life gets in the state’s high country. This route goes from Show Low to 40 high-country lakes in as many miles. It also passes through the world’s largest stand of ponderosa pines near the twin towns of Pinetop-Lakeside; through pristine conifer forests with a matrix of aspens on White Mountain Apache lands; past BURN’S REWARD A view of Greer, one of Arizona’s treasures, as designated by Governor Capitol Butte rewards bikers Janet Napolitano; and on to Springerville, which has a history willing to burn their quads as one of the state’s wildest towns. The wide shoulder, moderate during a brief-but-strenuous hills and cool summer weather will likely be enough to entice OGOLLO 1.25-mile uphill pedal on M N

Sedona’s Airport Road. you to hang around an extra day or two to explore the handful R I Photograph by Nick of shorter routes that branch off along the highway. M Berezenko Length: 59 miles, one way

Elevation Gain: 3,090 feet ROBERT G. MCDONALD Elevation Descent: 2,329 feet Peak Season: May-October Mining-Country Route Difficulty:Moderate/Intermediate “Climb. Climb. Then climb some more.” That’s how cyclists Nearest Towns: Show Low, Springerville describe this route. The topography, as hard-bitten as the his- Getting There: From the intersection of State Route 260 toric characters who traveled it (Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp and State Route 77/U.S. Route 60 in Show Low, ride east on and Billy the Kid), draws cyclists from around the world for State 260. the Mining Country Metric Century event that crosses the Keep in Mind: Beyond McNary, you’ll find countryside with- stunning, but demanding, mountain terrain. The route snakes out services. A permit is required when off-roading on White through Central Arizona’s mining country with curves, swerves, Mountain Apache Reservation land. dips and climbs from start to finish. With an 11-percent climb Information: 928-368-5111 or fs.fed.us/r3/asnf nicknamed “the end of the world,” and several drops down 10- TO JER A O percent grades, this ride is anything but entry-level. N M O E Length: 68 miles, round-trip

E S 18 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 19 Difficulty: Moderate/Intermediate Elevation Gain: 6,322 feet Nearest Towns: Arivaca, Tucson Elevation Descent: 5,409 feet Getting There: From Tucson, drive 31 miles south on Peak Season: October-April Interstate 19 to Exit 48. The cycling route begins here, on Difficulty: Difficult/Experienced Arivaca Road, heading west. Nearest Towns: Superior, Globe Keep in Mind: The road’s dips and curves present blind Getting There: From Globe, drive 2 miles east on State Route spots that require caution. 70 and turn right (south) onto State Route 77. The cycling route Information: 520-393-7433 or gvbikehike.com begins on State 77, heading south to Winkelman; at Winkelman, ride north on State Route 177 to Superior. Keep in Mind: You can cycle a complete loop starting and Cactus Forest Drive ending in Globe, which adds 28 miles and 700 feet in elevation Saguaro National Park, because of its namesake cactus, is gain to the trip. one of the most beautiful places in Arizona. It’s also noted for Information: 602-712-8141 its unique road-biking route. The route — short, sweet and scenic — draws beginners and seasoned cyclists year-round. Generally level, except for the sudden plummet to the desert Sky Island Scenic Byway floor during mile No. 1 and a mile-long climb midway through The longest climb in the state — and the most glamorous the route, this ride offers plenty of opportunities to gawk at the — usually lands on the list of challenging routes for hardcore gorgeous outlay of cactuses. Keep an eye on the road, though. road cyclists. This scenic byway travels through seven life All of these cactuses have prickly dispositions — a spill will zones, from the saguaro-studded desert up to the cool aspen-fir stick with you, in more ways than one. forests, and along the way displays the same vegetation seen Length: 8-mile loop on a 3,000-mile ride from Mexico to Canada. The scenery and Elevation Gain: 430 feet consistent 5-percent grade lure some of the world’s best cyclists, Elevation Descent: 427 feet including Lance Armstrong, who used this route to train for Peak Season: October-April the Tour de France. Difficulty: Easy/Beginner Length: 27 miles, one way Nearest Town: Tucson Elevation Gain: 6,203 feet Getting There: From East Broadway Boulevard in Tucson, go Elevation Descent: 1,125 feet southeast on Old Spanish Trail for 4 miles to the national park Peak Season: May-October entrance, where the route begins. At the signed Cactus Forest Difficulty: Difficult/Experienced Drive, turn left and head north on the loop. Nearest Town: Tucson Keep in Mind: The park is open from 7 a.m. until sunset Getting There: From Tucson, drive east on Tanque Verde daily. There’s a $3 charge for cyclists to enter. Road, and turn left (north) onto the Catalina Highway. The bik- Information: 520-733-5153 or nps.gov/sagu ing route begins here, heading north on the Catalina Highway to the national forest boundary, where the road becomes General Hitchcock Highway. Christine Maxa is a longtime contributor to Arizona Highways. Her latest Keep in Mind: Temperatures can be up to 30 degrees cooler book, Cycling Arizona: The Statewide Road Biking Guide, is available at in the upper reaches of the route. Take rain gear bookstores or amazon.com. from mid-July through mid-September. Information: fs.fed.us/r3/coronado or 520-749-8700

Arivaca Road Located in the middle of Southern Arizona’s nowhere, where jaguars skulk through watered canyons and pronghorn antelopes browse in seductive rolling grasslands, this route has the kinds of rollers and curves that cyclists dream about. Rows of cot- tonwoods along streams, oak groves on hillsides, and misty mountains in the distance evoke poetry. Even the three-block-long town of Arivaca answers cyclists’ prayers with a coffeehouse that roasts its own coffee every week, a bakery with fresh-baked sweets, and street vendors doling out homemade Mexican fare. Length: 22 miles, one way ND BY Elevation Gain: 966 feet LA W S A I Elevation Descent: 410 feet FORE Y S S Y U T

BRUCE GRIFFIN Peak Season: October-April MANEVITZ LES DAVID T D K C

S R A I

V C

20 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 21 E In LIVING Color

In Michigan and Massachusetts, April showers

bring May flowers. In the desert, there are no guarantees.

Rain is rare, and without it, wildflowers are unlikely.

That’s where we come in. Regardless of the weather,

our pages come alive with poppies, clover and

verbena — as you’ll see, we’ve got more

color than Mother Nature. 8

22 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 23 Although it has seven letters, drought is a

four-letter word in Arizona. It exacerbates the

Afire season, it dries up the reservoirs and it

wreaks havoc on wildflowers. Without win-

ter rain, an explosion of flowers in the spring

is a long shot. At press time, we had no idea

how much rain we’d get — if any. Therefore,

we weren’t in a position to tell you about the

best places to go looking for Arizona’s version

of the aurora borealis. By the time you read

this, though, we’ll have a much better idea. If

you’ll visit arizonahighways.com, we’ll give you

the latest on this year’s wildflower season. For

additional information, call the Desert Botan-

ical Garden at 480-941-1225, or visit dbg.org. 8 BLOOMS WITH A VIEW The claretcup hedgehog cactus (preceding panel), so-called for its Bordeaux-tinted blossoms and prickly pudginess, has edible fruits that Indians make into sweets. Photograph by George Raymond n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

STRAWBERRY FIELDS Strawberry hedgehog, buckwheat and beavertail prickly pear blooms (left) — peaking around late-March to mid-April — punctuate the foothills northwest of Kingman. Photograph by Robert McDonald n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

PRICKLY IN PINK A thistle blooming in the Tucson Mountains looks frilly and feminine (below), but it’s spiked with spines from stem to leaf. Photograph by Gill C. Kenny

24 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 25 OVER THE RAINBOW The rainbow cactus flower (above) brightens the grasslands and mountains of Southern Arizona from June to August. Photograph by Gill C. Kenny TECHNICOLOR TWOSOME Yellow brittlebush flowers complement purple owl clover (below), whose modified spiky purple leaves, called bracts, intermingle with magenta-and-purple blooms dabbed with yolk- colored spots. Photograph by George Stocking LITTLE MISS SUNSHINE Desert globemallow (right), which flowers year-round in lower elevations, adds rays of orange to a haze of spring-blooming purple verbena in the Four Peaks area. Photograph by Paul Gill n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1. 8

26 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 27 HEADS UP Purple owl clover and yellow brittlebushes — both prolific in March and April — reach for the sky in Alamo Lake State Park. Photograph by Kirk Owens 8

28 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 29 8

POPPY CHROMATIC In the foothills near Cave Creek, a stand of yellow and pink Mexican goldpoppies (left) furl when a cloud conceals the sun. Photograph by Jerry Sieve n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

ORANGE CRUSH One of the most anticipated spring wildflowers, the Mexican goldpoppy (right) works its alchemy in the Sonoran Desert beginning in mid-February. Photograph by Chuck Lawsen SONORA FLORA Floral textures and colors are juxtaposed in the Kofa National Wildlife Refuge (below): a spiny barrel cactus, delicate indigo lupines, champagne-tinted chollas and canary-colored brittlebushes. Photograph by Jack Dykinga n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

30 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 31 8

SPRING TO LIFE Sometime between February and May, the stark Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge (left) luxuriates in a blanket of dune evening primroses and fuchsia sand verbena. Photograph by Jeff Snyder n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

LITTLE WHITE LIE It looks like a different species, but these pearl-colored flowers (right) are actually Mexican goldpoppies. Photograph by Gill C. Kenny ALONG CAME A SPIDER After a rain shower, a small spider (below) clings to a Mexican goldpoppy with a single strand of web connected to an adjacent bloom. Photograph by Greg Binon

32 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 33 UNDERIn the aftermath of Rodeo-Chediski, FIRE the largest wildfire in Arizona history, silver linings were inconceivable. A few years later, things are different. As it turns out, in the process of scorching the landscape, the blaze unearthed the ruins of a 12th century ceremonial center — a place that includes one of the largest known kivas in the Southwest.

BY CRAIG CHILDS PHOTOGRAPHS BY NICK BEREZENKO

Remains of the Day Charred tree trunks 34 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COMloom above Cline Point in 35 the aftermath of the 2002 Rodeo-Chediski Fire. n the powdery The dirt was now cool remains of the Rodeo- where I crawled along a ChediskiI Fire, eight people trench looking for charcoal. walked up a trail carrying survey I lifted my head as dust devils equipment and digging gear. Gray dust spun across the hilltop, creaking the from the largest wildfire in Arizona history surrounding dead trees. puffed up from every step, drifting knee-high like mist, coating There’s a good chance this ancient fire was arson, and that pant legs. people were not caught unaware. Similarly burned sites have The fire had come through the summer before, in 2002, the been found all across the Southwest; sites where buildings were result of two simultaneous wildfires converging and racing set ablaze, stores of corn melted into black masses, pottery northward over the crest of the Mogollon Rim. One was started scorched. Experiments have proved that it’s difficult to touch off by a firefighter looking for work; the other by a woman lost in a pueblo. Only the ceilings are made of wood, and fires are easy the woods who touched off a signal fire in the ponderosas. In to contain within rooms, so it must have taken some premedita- their wake was a landscape of soft ash and glittering black trees. tion to get things burning. The trail topped out on a hill looking north toward dry This possibility is a point of much debate among archaeolo- Navajo and Hopi country, and south to the charred infinity of gists. Some believe fires were a result of warfare or household the Mogollon highlands. There, everyone set down his load and accidents — sparks getting out of kitchen hearths, invaders went to work. The blaze had cleared oak and manzanita under- running through rooms with torches, or even conflagrations brush, revealing the ruins of a 12th century ceremonial center. set by residents themselves at the approach of raiders, the same The site, which was being excavated by a team from the way Russians once burned their own villages as Napoleon’s University of Arizona, turned out to be one of the largest known army drew near. kivas in the Southwest — a great circular building with a cluster A growing number of researchers believe these fires were of smaller rooms gathered on one side. more than accidents or violence. They say the fires were a kind In these ruins, workers found evidence of a fire that had of cultural signature — a way in which the ancient people burned through this compound 800 years ago. Old flecks of closed their doors behind them. They believe it might have plaster and wall-stones were brightly discolored red and yellow been a sacred act to burn your house as you left. where they’d been oxidized by intense heat. On the floor of a trench was a nest of charcoal and burned timbers where a ceil- he ancient Southwest was a land of mobility. People fre- ing had collapsed in a shower of sparks and flame. The remains quently abandoned entire pueblos and towns to build of the fire and the remains of the people who lived here were so T elsewhere. Responding to sharp climatic fluctuations, pre- closely intermingled that it appeared the residents were present Columbian farmers regularly moved in search of better grow- for the blaze. ing weather. Rarely did they stay in one place for more than 50 At the time that Neolithic Pueblo cultures dominated the years. After a thousand years of living in this fashion, no doubt Southwest, Central Arizona was a burgeoning population core. a culture as regimented and religious as the Pueblo culture came I often wonder if these ancient people saw elemental forces up with a way to sanctify their departures. Many archaeologists the same way we do now. Has yelling FIRE! always sent panic believe they did this with fire. straight into the blood? It’s hard to find a large archaeological site in the Southwest As I explored the remains of the long-ago fire, I pictured that was not burned at some point — usually at the end of its flames sputtering through dry ceiling wood, smoke billowing into rooms. Were people running, shouting for each other, parents racing out doorways with babies tucked to their chests? Did Fiery Fury Flames race through the forest near Show Low (above). they all stand outside, their faces sweating in yellow light the Left Behind A burned-out tree (right) frames the devastation caused by the way we might now gather around a house burning hopelessly 2002 Rodeo-Chediski Fire, which charred more than 460,000 acres of forested to the ground? land and killed millions of trees.

36 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 37 Bits of artifacts showed through the devastation. Floor plans of ancient buildings showed through the ash — small households that once surrounded the hilltop.

smoldered trunks. Others had burned out completely, leaving only cadaverous holes, relief images in the ground where the fire had worked through the roots. Boulders were onion-skinned by the heat of the blaze — their flaked fragments lying about. Bits of artifacts showed through the devastation. Pieces of pottery were finely dusted in ash between dark, barren stumps. Floor plans of ancient buildings showed through the ash — small households that once surrounded the hilltop. Certainly people living here 800 years ago saw wildfires in their day. Arizona has always been susceptible with its summer lightning and dry pines. When the cinder-cone volcano we now call Sunset Crater erupted in Northern Arizona during the 11th century, ash and lava buried numerous Pueblo villages and houses within a 5-mile radius, and probably sent fires in all directions. Hard, black basalt has been found from the erup- tion with impressions of corn kernels in its surface. Residents might have approached semimolten lava and pushed corn into it — perhaps an act of reverence or sheer intrigue. Maybe they walked in this same way through vacuous, burned From the Ashes The view southwest from Cline Point shows a forest of dead trees and regenerating vegetation. forests, slowly setting their footsteps, listening to the clatter of charred branches in the wind as if the place were haunted. I came upon the remains of someone’s cabin that had been almost occupation. Dr. William Walker of New Mexico State University were those that belonged to the migrants. The rest of the pueblo entirely incinerated. Only outlines and a few items remained says that up to 70 percent of all early pit-houses were burned remained intact and was occupied for another hundred years, — a coffee can full of nails, a metal bucket draped over itself to the ground. “Once I saw that,” he explains, “I began to look with the addition of an impressive new wall enclosing the site. like candle wax. Sheet metal had been flung from the roof like at other contexts later in time [than pit-houses], and I saw the The northern migrants never returned. unwanted clothing, now half-melted among black trees. tradition was carried on. Sometimes you see entire pueblos Why? Theories include the speculation that perhaps after 30 In a sense, the cabin seemed purified. The presence of its burned. I think they treated these burnings like burials for a years, the Mogollon people had had enough of the northern- owner had been reduced to dust, leaving a place that belonged pueblo — a funeral, in a sense.” ers, burned them out, and then built a wall to keep any more more to the fire than to anyone. The whole forest felt this way. I’ve heard from several prominent archaeologists around the of them from showing up. Or maybe the northern migrants I remembered an archaeologist explaining to me that for Southwest who share this notion. One showed me the burned decided to keep moving and set their rooms ablaze as they left, cultures around the world, there are three ways to deal with remains of a kiva floor in the Four Corners area. Buried beneath as might have been their tradition for countless generations. something special you’re leaving behind, be it a person who ash and charcoal lay a large ceramic bowl turned upside-down. Whatever happened, it wasn’t an accident — a kitchen fire left has died, a retired religious object or a special building: You When the archaeologist lifted the burned bowl, she found small unattended. bury it, you let it sink in water or you burn it. He said that in baskets containing piles of ground corn. Alexander Lindsay, a retired professor of archaeology, was the Southwest, where the ground is often too hard for burial Some argue that this is evidence of people fleeing suddenly, at the Point of Pines excavation in the 1950s. He told me he and where water is scarce, the best option is burning. It takes a leaving their goods in place as an unexpected blaze took their wished they’d brought in an arson investigator. Even without place out of circulation, renews it, prepares it for the future by pueblo. The woman who showed me the piles of cornmeal, an outsider’s opinion, he was certain Point of Pines had been cleansing it of its past. however, saw more than just goods in place. She saw offerings. burned on purpose, and that the arsonists knew exactly what I walked beyond the cabin through a forest of obsidian shapes. Everything about the kiva floor seemed carefully arranged, as if rooms they wanted to burn. The trees were dazzling in naked sunlight. At the base of one people had set out jars and ladles in a special way — contribu- Now arson investigators are studying prehistoric structure gruesome stump, a fresh bouquet of oak leaves had emerged tions to the fire they were about to set before migrating out of fires at key sites in the Southwest. They’ve been able to find from the ash. Seeds had waited deep in the soil, buried in former the area. points of ignition, putting together sequences of rooms catching seasons by squirrels or jays. I knelt and ran my fingers through Sometimes the fires seem related to the nature of the particu- fire, discovering that some fires began in rooms without hearths, the leaves, a first sign of life. Now I understood why people lar use of the structures that are burned. One glaring example is places where a fire would probably not have started by accident. once burned their homes in this country. There is perhaps no Point of Pines Sites, a series of ancient pueblos located north of Fire was no doubt a powerful tool in the hands of these people. stronger way to say goodbye. And hello. what is now Safford. During the 13th century, Point of Pines was They might have used it to fit the occasion — burning their Craig Childs grew up enjoying campfires all across Arizona. He now lives a site of mixed ethnicities with a group of northern migrants — enemies’ structures or stockpiles in times of war, and burning in Colorado. He’s a commentator for National Public Radio and the author Kiva Conceptions A shallow depression (top) marks the spot of the great kiva whom some now call Anasazi — living in their own compounds their own homes in times of migration. of several highly acclaimed books, including House of Rain: Tracking a at Cline Point. After excavation in 2003, archaeologists filled in all structures at Vanished Civilization Across the American Southwest. the site. A photo-illustration (center) reconstructs what the ruins of the Cline within a pueblo that belonged primarily to Mogollon people. Point kiva might have looked like. Archaeologist Sam Duwe’s theoretical site plan Nick Berezenko earned an anthropology degree from Arizona State The migrants stayed for 30 years, keeping their own customs, climbed out of the hilltop trench and walked away from the of the kiva overlays a photo-illustrated reconstruction of the site (above). University, but switched to freelance photography and writing instead of their own pottery, even their own strains of corn and beans. dig to explore the surrounding burn. Some trees stood as if archaeology. He still digs occasionally in the basement of his home in Pine Then a fire struck Point of Pines and the only rooms burned I in circus acts, balanced on what very little remained of their — but only “to keep it from flooding.”

38 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 39 Character Judge of Even in the days of Dobson Ranch, Mesa was never confused with Bedford Falls. Still, there’s at least one man in town — Judge Hamblen — who’s a character straight out of a Frank Capra movie. Homespun, no-nonsense, unorthodox … that’s how you’d describe this throwback to the old school.

One morning in September, a man BY KATHY MONTGOMERY named Robert arrived early at the West Mesa Justice Court to pay a traffic ticket. PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON B. & RYAN B. STEVENSON As he waited for the court to open, another man pulled up to the building, my life to admit that the story he was works only intermittently. He speaks got out of his truck and started banging telling the judge was baloney. He did it quickly but in plain language. He’s made on the door, asking where everybody by looking him in the eye and kind of rules for himself: No words with more was. The man looked disheveled, and the chiding him.” than seven letters or more than two vow- back of his truck was full of used tires. It was like a Capra movie. Robert felt els touching each other. Although the weather promised to be hot, as if he were watching the whole thing “All-righty then,” he might begin, he wore a pair of brown corduroy pants in black and white. He half-expected the “what’s this about?” that looked too big and were folded up courtroom to erupt into song. The people who parade before at the bottom. “I went to pay a traffic ticket,” Robert says. Hamblen’s bench wear T-shirts and work ORobert thought the judge was going “When I left, I felt like I’d been treated to shirts, ball caps and do-rags. Some sport to have his hands full with this guy, so something wonderful.” piercings and tattoos. They argue traffic he was more than a little surprised to Only one thing bothered him. Robert tickets and certain misdemeanors, and find the man in brown corduroy sitting overheard that Judge Hamblen’s court is plead to DUIs. They face evictions or pur- behind the bench in the courtroom. A scheduled to be absorbed into a Maricopa sue small claims. Hamblen treats them nameplate identified him as Judge County regional complex in 2010. He all with respect. He jokes with them. He Clayton R. Hamblen, who had “imme- worried that the move would drain lectures like a concerned father. diately transformed into this very kind- Hamblen’s courtroom of its character On a recent Tuesday afternoon, a col- hearted guy.” and, in the process, destroy what might lege student named Stephanie stands Robert was charmed. be the last of a dying breed. before the bench with her father. She has “He’s compassionate, but he’s firm,” a smooth complexion and large blue eyes. Robert says. “In five minutes, with a Judge Hamblen’s courtroom is infor- She’s 21, but looks about 16. smile on his face, he was able to coerce mal, and he runs it himself with the help Stephanie is pleading guilty to driving the most hard-looking guy I ever saw in of a computer, a copier and a scanner that under the influence. Her blood-alcohol content tested at .20, well above the .15 required to classify the DUI as extreme. ECLECTIC COLLECTION Judge Clayton R. “Bud” Hamblen’s office (left) reflects his varied interests as an avid collector of military memorabilia and all things Americana. From his “Did I give you a hard time the other bench, Judge Hamblen (above) maintains a just, yet compassionate courtroom. day?” Hamblen asks.

40 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 41 PARNELLI HAMBLEN coming the first in his extended family to they can never crawl out, and they give will screw someone up.” The first race Hamblen entered was An auto enthusiast since his earliest driving graduate from college. He was admitted up,” he says. “You get a guy who comes Judge Michael Orcutt has known Ham- a demolition derby. He was 17 and had days, Bud Hamblen to the State Bar of Arizona in 1972, and in on a hundred thousand a year and he blen since they were Cub Scouts. And gotten a Texaco sponsorship. cleans his helmet in worked as a criminal defense attorney. gets fined $455. Big whoop. You get a while he’s never seen him in action, he “In the main event, there were two of preparation for a figure- 8 race at the Arizona But it wasn’t long before he realized that guy comes in and he’s making 12 grand believes Hamblen is an excellent judge. us left. The other guy was crippled, and State Fair. Department that career wasn’t right for him. a year and you’ve probably just ruined “I know he cares about people, and I I was headed over there to destroy him,” of Public Safety Officer “I wanted to change the world,” Ham- his chances of making the mortgage wouldn’t say he has a soft side, but he does Hamblen says. “I ran out of gas.” John W. Anthony chats blen says. “By the fifth year, I realized I payment for the next three months — if have compassion appropriately,” Orcutt He chuckles. “I got second because I with Hamblen in his courtroom (opposite wasn’t going to.” he’s able to afford a house. Everyone is says. “There are times to be tough and ran out of gas.” page). He felt guilty about defending people unique and different. You have to take it there are times to have a little compas- Hamblen’s term expires in 2010, he’d just as soon stuff in a closet. He case by case.” sion. The art of judging is knowing when shortly after his 65th birthday. He hasn’t couldn’t sleep through the night. Hamblen is proud of the fact that he’s people need to have a firm hand and when yet decided whether he’ll run again, but “No,” she says with a shy smile. age 16. It was his own. He had gotten a “The truth is, I slept with Pepto-Bismol,” never held anyone in contempt of court, a softer hand is more effective.” not because the court is scheduled to “Darn, I meant to. You do this again and ticket for having more than three people Hamblen says. “I drank it before I went to but he has little patience with people Orcutt calls his friend competitive and move into a regional complex. He’s not I’ll come hunt you down, OK?” in the front seat of his car. To prepare sleep. It was my kick in the morning.” who are rude or self-important. funny, but says Hamblen’s defining char- worried about being forced to change. After sentencing, as Stephanie turns to his defense, he looked up the statute, So, in 1988, he quit. To one plaintiff who complained that acteristic is a big heart. “I’d quit before I let that happen,” he leave, Hamblen calls after her, “I hope I which was written in 1919. Then he About that time he convinced his boy- a business owner didn’t remember his “He tends to want to show a little bit says. “You can follow the law, you just never see you again.” found a 1920 Ford Model A touring car hood friend, Michael Orcutt, to run for name, Hamblen said: “Are you really that of a gruff side, but I think he does that don’t have to be mean. I believe in my and measured the front seat, calculating justice of the peace in Phoenix. Orcutt important that he needs to remember to hide the big heart part of it,” Orcutt heart that I handle my court the way “Bud” Hamblen looks a little like how many inches per person the statute won, and suggested Hamblen give the William H. Macy. He’s got the same allowed. In court, he argued that those bench a try. “He thought I’d like it, and broad forehead, thin lips and fine, ginger- allowances, when applied to his own car, he was right.” colored hair. He admits to having mostly left plenty of room for four. Hamblen worked pro tem for two Scottish and Welsh ancestry, but he’s also He lost. But he appealed the decision years, filling in for judges on leave. He “I slept with Pepto-Bismol. part German, Cherokee, Cheyenne and and won by default when no one showed ran for JP as a Republican in 1990, and North Kaibab Paiute. He’ll tell you none up on behalf of the state. hasn’t looked back since. I drank it before I went to sleep. of it means anything to him. He doesn’t “I guess I do have a strong feeling about believe in racial discrimination. That what’s right and what’s wrong,” he says. A man wearing a brown t-shirt with It was my kick in the morning.” comes partly from the way his parents “That was wrong. Shoot-fire, there was sand-colored hair and a salt-and-pepper raised him, and partly from growing up plenty of room in that seat.” beard hobbles into Hamblen’s courtroom. in rural South Phoenix. Now, as a judge, he’s heard a million He bends over a cane, wincing with each “I grew up in the melting pot,” he says. traffic stories. step. The man tells the judge his name “It’s hard for me to be a bigot. I never had “A woman gets a ticket coming down is William. He’s in court pleading to an your name? Sheesh!” says. “He’s helped a lot of people, but he’s court should be handled.” the room.” from Payson,” he begins his favorite story. extreme DUI. As William turns to leave, Hamblen usually pretty quiet about it. Back when Instead, he thinks of all the things But if he’s not a bigot, he is a great patriot. “She can’t figure out how she’s going 92 “Have a seat anywhere,” Hamblen asks if he goes by William or Bill. he was an attorney, he would do a lot of he’d like to do. He’d like to establish a His courtroom is hung with a collection of mph. And when she got home after get- hails him from the bench. “You own the “I usually go by Bradford,” William says. pro bono work, and most people wouldn’t charitable organization that would help American flags, black-and-white photos of ting a ticket, and got undressed and took place.” “Bradford?” Hamblen repeats, sound- find out about it.” impoverished kids improve their appear- soldiers, and World War I- and World War off her boots, she realized that all day “I don’t own it,” William says, “the tax- ing surprised. “Well, good luck, Bradford. Orcutt notes the work Hamblen has ance by providing things like braces and II-era military service flags. He wanted to she’d been wearing her steel-toed boots, payers do.” IDo whatever you need to do to feel well.” done with kids, coaching volleyball, soc- eye care. He’d like to have a political be a fighter pilot — his father served in and coming home they’d been dragging “It’s a fractional ownership,” Hamblen cer and baseball teams. But the best evi- talk show and run a political campaign. the U.S. Army Air Corps — but Bud’s eyes her foot down on the pedal.” fires back. If Hamblen feels compassion for the dence, he says, is the number of kids he’s He has an idea for a line of salsa and a went bad. At age 19, he got a permanent Hamblen pauses and smiles. “Now “Do you mind if I stand?” William asks people who come before him, it might adopted. fast-food restaurant that would serve a deferment after a train hit his car while that’s good, huh? That’s good. I like that. the judge. be because he’s led what he calls “a glori- “He has a lot of patience dealing with healthful version of fish and chips — his he was driving to a Veteran’s Day parade. “My worst one is a guy who told me his “Stand, sit, whatever you need to do.” ously imperfect life.” each of them,” Orcutt says. “It’s very favorite food. He’d like to travel the world, The accident blew out his knee. So now Ferrari wouldn’t go 97 mph. A 200-mph “I can do anything, just not very long.” “I’ve screwed up as much as anyone I challenging, and I’m sure very reward- but he’d like to see the United States first. he collects military artifacts. car. I was thinking about putting him in “You’re ahead of me,” Hamblen says. “I know,” he says. And some of those strug- ing when they turn out well.” Above all, he’d like to spend more time “I can do this because I never served,” he jail for failing to maintain a prime car. can’t do anything, but I can do it for a gles have played out publicly. In 1995, with his children. Including those he’s says, referring to his collections, which Abuse of a vehicle.” long time.” the state bar censured him for violating If Robert had gone to court on adopted, he counts 14. On the other include every issue of Life magazine Hamblen’s early experience in traffic Laws govern the minimum and maxi- the rules of professional conduct for his another day, he might have seen a beat- hand, there’s the law, which he loves as published during World War II, mili- court gave him a taste for the law, but mum penalties for DUIs, but Hamblen work as an attorney on a personal injury up-looking yellow ’75 Camaro with a much as his job. tary uniforms, and patriotic postcards of he admits, after 19 years on the bench, exercises discretion where he can. If suit in the 1980s. The court found that he blue No. 4 painted on the side hitched “I love coming to work,” he says. “You children clutching flags and flowers. But that his career choice wasn’t a shoo-in. defendants work or attend college, he failed to file timely discovery responses, to the back of Hamblen’s truck. If he had, don’t get luckier than that.” he admits he’ll collect almost anything: After high school, he narrowed down his authorizes work releases. If their incomes resulting in the client’s action being dis- he might have understood the tires in Kathy Montgomery is a Mesa-based journalist old currency, clocks, cars. He still has choices to doctor, orthodontist and law- are puny, he waives the incarceration fee. missed. The client was able to get the the back of the truck. Hamblen races on who teaches magazine writing at Arizona State the first car he ever owned — a ’32 Ford yer, but he didn’t like blood, and once he In this case, the judge wonders if William case reinstated with new counsel. weekends, but sometimes drags his car University. This is her first story for Arizona Cabriolet — and the cars that belonged got braces, he found them painful. is up to the physical demands of jail, and “I screwed up,” Hamblen admits. “I to court when he plans a weeknight prac- Highways. to his parents. “I never sell anything,” he “So, I became a lawyer by default,” he sets in motion a process that might allow always said that. It was my fault and I tice. He’s been hooked on racing since If they ever do have to appear in court, says. “It’s been a lifelong problem.” explains. him to serve his time at home. deserved it. Did I learn from that? Oh 1951, when he was in first grade. That photographers Don B. and Ryan B. Stevenson hope it’s in front of Judge Hamblen. They were Hamblen attended college and law “The key thing about being a judge is yeah. But I will say it makes me a better was when he watched his cousin race at impressed by the judge’s blending of humor, Hamblen pleaded his first case at school at Arizona State University, be- we drive people into such deep holes that judge. I’m very slow to do anything that Manzanita Speedway on opening day. compassion and respect for the law.

42 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 43 CACTUS SEA For as far as the eye ert, it pays to keep a close eye flowers. The valley and the can see, teddy bear chollas and on the weather, because the beginning of the loop road organ pipe cactuses mingle with heat can be hard on a person lie in what ecologists call a creosote bushes, mesquite trees and ocotillos, carpeting the desert floor and a vehicle, and the desert “mixed scrub community,” at Organ Pipe Cactus National plain is subject to flooding marked by low brittlebushes Monument (left). Photograph by after a hard rain. and bursage that sway in the Jack Dykinga n To order a print of this photograph, Organ Pipe regulars have soft breeze, as well as larger see page 1. their favorite times of year. paloverdes and ocotillos. Sue Rutman, the monument’s The road soon climbs to the of heat during the summer, resident naturalist, tells me rocky, sun-drenched foothills adventure

but that’s blessedly mild she has a soft spot for summer, country, where saguaros and in the winter and fall. It’s a when the desert is an anvil organ pipe cactuses thrive. At range that seems to please the for the sun. Since I’m fairly the 5.2-mile mark from the imposing organ pipe cactus. sensible, mine is early spring, entrance stands a particularly The gateway to the 21- when, if the winter rains have fine specimen of the latter, mile-long mostly gravel Ajo been generous, the loop road its candelabra arms reaching Mountain Drive loop road passes through sunny fields into the sky. Take the time to stands just opposite the mon- of Mexican goldpoppies and get out of your car to admire ument headquarters on State other wildflowers worthy of Route 85, a few miles north of . ROYAL ROCK A natural rock arch The Wizard of Oz (below) viewed from Ajo Mountain back road the U.S.-Mexico border. The So it is on this early spring Drive reigns over prickly pear cactuses road is good, as maintained morning, the broad Sonoyta and bright yellow brittlebushes. dirt and gravel roads go. Valley carpeted with a pro- Photograph by Randy Prentice n To order a print of this photograph, However, as always in the des- fusion of newly bloomed see page 1. by Gregory McNamee by Gregory

onward, glad the spines haven’t found a tire — yet. Ajo Mountain Drive Fringed by mountains and spreading out like a fan Saguaros get most of the attention in Arizona, but organ pipe cactuses southward toward Mexico, are nothing to scoff at, and this loop drive offers a great introduction. the rocky plain that makes up much of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument chollas are sneaky. The advance to take advantage of National Monument, discon- That backpack, of course, is a meeting place for the fuzzy, stringy cactuses wait any blunder, and I swear they solately picking at a clump of is sitting at home. No matter. comparatively lush Sonoran for an obliging passerby, then can see me coming from cholla that’s “bitten down” on As they say in the NBA, when Desert upland environment, latch onto clothes, skin, fur. miles away. my left sock. I know all about you’re a pro, you play hurt. so favored by those chollas, They travel by cow flank or That’s what I’m thinking as chollas through hard experi- And so, having extricated and the hotter, drier, lower pant leg to a desired destina- I sit on a bank of sun-warmed ence, and I keep a pair of extra- myself from most of the coastal plain of Sonora, tion, and then jump off to get rocks alongside the loop road long tweezers in my backpack cholla stalk with an obliging Mexico, and the Colorado a new plant started. And they that winds through the eastern to pluck out the attackers piece of saguaro rib, I hobble River delta. This is desert plan their movements well in portion of Organ Pipe Cactus efficiently and painlessly. back to the truck and drive that tends toward extremes

44 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 45 STANDING OVATION A colorful Mount Ajo, which, though combination of Mexican goldpoppies, only 4,808 feet high, makes a blue lupines and purple owl clover (left) commands center stage in a challenging climb for even the Sonoran Desert spring. Photograph most experienced hiker. The by Jerry Sieve tough volcanic mountains n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1. look as if they’d been piped out by a mad pastry chef with this great piece of creation, a blender full of lava, and for but keep an eye out for those all their scenic quality, there’s chollas — there’s a particularly nothing gentle about them. dense patch of them nearby, My favorite section of the and the old-timers didn’t call it loop road, no matter what “jumping cholla” for nothing. the season, begins at mile 9.4, The road climbs gently, where a sight that’s rare in the drops into the gulch called Sonoran Desert awaits — a Diablo Wash, then climbs rock arch 720 feet overhead, again to give a fine view of the stretching out to a length steep canyon from which the of more than 90 feet. Arch wash descends. The rocks Canyon offers an inviting here are covered with what hike, climbing from the road’s appears to be moss, an 2,500-foot vantage to eleva- unusual sight in the dry des- tions that sustain shady oak ert — this primitive plant and juniper trees. Organ Pipe is a place of THE TEMPEST Storm clouds loom turns a vivid green after a Another hike winds out demands and extremes, but over the Diablo Mountains (above) in Southern Arizona, bringing welcome good rainfall, which occasions from the parking lot at Estes also subtle and spectacular rain to the parched desert landscape. another old-time name, “res- Canyon, about 1.5 miles far- beauties alike. The loop road Photograph by Laurence Parent urrection plant.” In the ther down the loop road. The is the best way I know to springtime, the moss’ emerald trailhead is at the spacious introduce yourself to this whose Latin original, deser- trail follows the road around a parking area, and the trail unique place and its wealth of tus, means “abandoned.” Even narrow pass in the foothills of makes its way up a rugged wildlife — 277 bird species, though you’re likely to have the sheer Ajo Mountains. The 2-mile-long climb to the sur- 70 kinds of mammals, 46 rep- the road to yourself, Organ pass opens up to a view of the prisingly wet and green Bull tile species, 76 butterfly vari- Pipe is well-populated, and highest point in the range, Pasture. The round-trip takes eties and counting, and more. it’s an ideal place to experi- a couple of hours, with a Not bad for a desert, a place ence desert life. wonderful payoff of sweeping Vehicle Requirements: views of the low-desert plain Passenger cars, no motorhomes far south into Mexico. longer than 23 feet; high- route finder Descending from the clearance recommended Note: Mileages are approximate. during rainy weather. flank of the Ajos, the loop > From Tucson, take Interstate 19 south for 1 mile to State Route 86. Travel Advisory: Organ Pipe road passes through dense Cactus National Monument > Drive west on State 86 114 miles to State Route 85 at Why. growths of jojoba, a Sonoran admission is $8 per vehicle. > Turn left (south) onto State 85 and drive 22 miles to Organ Pipe Warning: Due to its proximity Desert plant valued for its oil, Cactus National Monument. to the international boundary with Mexico, some parts of and the curious and uncom- the monument are closed mon thing called the Mexican To Why TOHONO O’ODHAM for construction and visitor n h Cyn. INDIAN RESERVATION jumping bean, a dark-green Arc safety concerns. Several roads A J are closed to vehicle traffic, shrub whose seeds har- O

t Es es Cy and all backcountry areas are bor moth larvae that move n. M O closed to overnight use until U around, less jumping than 85 Bull Pasture N further notice. Back-road T twitching. A I travel can be hazardous. Be N aware of weather and road At about mile 18, the road S conditions. Don’t travel alone, leaves the hills and returns to Kris Eggle Ajo Mountain Drive and let someone know where Visitor Center you’re going and when you the desert floor, traversing plan to return. There are stands of saguaros, organ no water sources or phones

pipes, Christmas cactuses, S

available, so carry plenty of O water, snacks and a cell phone. and, seemingly everywhere, N O h s Additional Information: 520- a Y patches of cholla in its many T W 387-6849 or nps.gov/orpi. A o l magnificent and troublesome b Kevin Kibsey a Travelers in Arizona i V D A varieties — pencil chollas, L can visit az511.gov or dial L E 511 to get information on teddybear chollas, chain-fruit Lukeville Y road closures, construction, chollas … hunters all, looking A RIZON A ORGAN PIPE CACTUS delays, weather and more. MEXICO NATIONAL MONUMENT for a juicy calf to sink into.

46 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 47 Hot Springs Loop Coatimundis, running water and a healthy dose of history are just some of the reasons to explore this Nature Conservancy property in Southern Arizona.

the tranquility of laying their eggs for the Bonita holdings. The next Southern Arizona’s Bass season. Suddenly, there’s a year, Geronimo and his band Canyon belies its brutal rustle upstream and a mule of Chiricahua Apaches went history. Nestled between the deer leaps 10 feet across the on a yearlong rampage in of the month the of

remote Galiuro Mountains water before vanishing into the area, hiding in its many and the San Pedro River, the the brush. canyons, staging attacks and canyon harbors one of seven We continue downstream rustling cattle. year-round streams in the and pass the only trail marker By the 1890s, however,

hike 49,200-acre Muleshoe Ranch on this undeveloped rocky wealthy guests were traveling Cooperative Management streambed route, which by stagecoach from Willcox HANGING ON A white-nosed Area, home to abundant plant follows a path created by to bathe in these legendary coatimundi (above) — a member of and wildlife. Coatimundi thousands of years of run- springs, among the hottest the raccoon family — clings to coarse tracks zigzag along the sandy ning water. Geologists say the in the state. Back at ranch tree bark. The agile tree-climber munches on beetles, ants, termites stream banks this peaceful existing mountains in the area headquarters, we did the and scorpions when hungry. winter morning. It’s hard are too small to collect the same — climbing in, sinking to picture Melvin Jones kind of rain needed for such up to our chins and listening WILDLIFE WONDERLAND The jagged peaks of the Galiuro stepping out from the brush a task, and believe the water for the sound of spurs and the Mountains (right) tower over the and gunning down physician that originally blazed the trail click of a trigger. But every- Muleshoe Ranch Cooperative Area, Glendy King for this property dates to the last ice age. thing we heard was peaceful which is home to many animal in 1884, yet I can understand As we approach the conflu- — a whimsical bird and the species, including coatimundis, black bears, javelinas, white- why Jones and others formed ence with Hot Springs Creek rustle of the cottonwood trees tailed and mule deer, mountain such a dangerous attachment — which we will follow towering above us. lions and desert bighorn sheep. to Muleshoe. another mile for the last leg Our hike begins just down- of our hike — we spot more trail guide stream from the aluminum- paw prints. This time, it’s a Getting There: From Tucson, drive east on Interstate 10 to Willcox (Exit 340). lined hot tubs at Muleshoe mountain lion. The tracks Go south to Bisbee Avenue and turn right. Continue past the high school and Ranch headquarters. Heading follow the stream for 30 feet turn right (north) onto Airport Road. After 15 miles, bear right onto northwest we climb up before they disappear. Did Muleshoe Ranch Road. Follow this road for another 14 miles. The Muleshoe Ranch CMA Headquarters is at the end of this road on the left. by Brendan Borrell photographs by Tom Vezo photographs by Tom Borrell by Brendan unpaved Jackson Cabin Road. it leap across the water? Or Length: 3 miles round-trip. As we crest our first hill, we’re clamber across this log to Elevation Gain: Negligible. Difficulty: Moderate to difficult. already shedding layers of that gully? The cats around Payoff: Year-round streams, hot springs (for overnight guests only), clothing and stashing it in our here must know how to be abundant birds and plant life, and opportunities to see coatimundi troops in bags. Bass Canyon is just a sneaky; Hot Springs ranch- the canyons. Travel Advisory: Two-thirds of this hike is in rocky creek beds requiring hikers mile away, and we can see its ers used to pay $25 for every to walk in the water. Wear sturdy boots and long pants; carry a walking stick distinctive formations in the scalp. Twenty-two were killed and a change of socks. Casita lodging is available by reservation from late distance — dimpled rock that in one year alone, and Johnny September through May. Warning: The 26 miles of dirt roads from Willcox to Muleshoe Ranch might looks like carved soap. Two Jones, Melvin’s brother, once require a four-wheel-drive vehicle after heavy rains. million years ago, volcanoes devised a scheme to exter- Additional Information: 520-507-5229 or nature.org. coated the landscape with ash minate them entirely. He G and rock, likely wiping out all failed. A CORONADO n L IU NATIONAL FOREST R of the plants and animals in Melvin, the killer, didn’t O

M the area. But this tuff erodes get Bass Canyon, either. O U N

TA n easily, and over time, has Instead, Dr. King’s prop- IN o S y

n formed the undulating cliffs erty went on the auction MULESHOE RANCH a C CORONADO W COOPERATIVE s

s i a n NATIONAL FOREST

and spires that loom over the block, after his brother MANAGEMENT AREA c B h > e ek s streambed. failed to produce proper re te s C trailhead r g M rin p Hookers ou Along Bass Creek’s edge, documentation. Colonel S nt t ai o Hot Springs ns we poke at globs of algae and Henry Clay Hooker H hunt for lowland leopard bought the land, adding Bisbee Avenue S Airport Road a n Exit 340

frogs, which have just begun it to his famous Sierra P Kevin Kibsey e d r Willcox o

R iv e r Muleshoe Ranch Road online For more hikes in Arizona, visit our hike archive at arizonahighways.com. 10 To Tucson

48 m a r c h 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 49