SEWING INSTRUCTIONS HIDDEN CANDY TOP FI02004 TABLE OF CONTENTS
METHODOLOGY ...... 3
Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 Pattern pieces ...... 6 Sewing technology ...... 7 How to read instructions ...... 10
SEWING ...... 11
1. Darts ...... 11 2. Cargo pockets ...... 12 3. Placket ...... 19 4. Buttonholes ...... 27 5. Side seams ...... 31 6. Shoulder seams ...... 32 7. Neck facing ...... 34 8. Fell stitch - Neck facing ...... 37 9. Armhole facing ...... 39 10. Secure facings to the garment stitch ...... 42 11. Hem facing ...... 44 12. Placket topstitch ...... 48 13. Open the buttonholes ...... 48 14. Sewing buttons ...... 49
SEWING SUGGESTION ...... 53
GLOSSARY ...... 59
Hidden candy top FI02004 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY
PATTERN MARKINGS
SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE
CENTER LINE FOLD LINE
PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE
GATHER STRETCH
BUTTONHOLE BUTTONHOLE
BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH
SEAM STRUCTURE
INTERFACING FABRIC
ZIPPER SERGE
CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH
SEWING LINE FOLD LINE
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT
Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger
Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot
Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing thread Safety pin
Dressmaking Sewing needle for Seam ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch
9
8
7 3 6
5
4 2
3
2 1 1
Thread snips Tailors chalk; Bobbins Ruler soap or fabric pen
3” 4 8
3” 1” 1” 1
1 4 2
1 8
1” 1”
4 1”
8 5”
Tape measure Pins Seam gauge Machine needle
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED
• Fabric • Sewing thread • Sewing needle / Universal • Serger threads • Fusible interfacing • Maximum Eight 3/8” (1 cm) Buttons
The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric
BODY MEASUREMENTS cm
BODY HEIGHT cm
BUST cm cm MI N HIP cm
BODY HEIGHT cm
BUST cm cm MA X HIP cm
Recommended fabrics:
FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Sateen Medium 0-2 % Stretch Sateen /6oz - 8oz (170g - 227g)/ Cotton Medium Heavy Linen Blends /8oz - 10oz (227g - 283g)/ Shirtings Poplin Suiting Woven
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES
AB BB CB BA
A AC B C
CA DB EB DBA EBA
CE BE AE
BC DA EA AD CC BAA
TOP FABRIC PIECES
Front A Back Right B Back Le C Front Facing AB Back Facing Right BB Back Facing Le CB Front Armhole Facing Right AC Front Armhole Facing Le AD Back Armhole Facing Right BC Back Armhole Facing Le CC Right Placket BA Le Placket CA Inner Placket BAA Front Hem Facing AE Back Hem Facing Right BE Back Hem Facing Le CE Pocket Right EA Pocket Le DA Pocket Upper Flap Right EB Pocket Upper Flap Le DB Pocket Under Flap Right EBA Pocket Under Flap Le DBA
* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not t the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional cut line.
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY
Fabric key
Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining lining interfacing interfacing
Interfacing placement on garment
Laying out and cutting fabric
bias grain
cross grain selvage
lengthwise grain
Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains.
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”
1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.
Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark dart points and matchpoints.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 8 Sewing technology CB AE AD BB CE
BE AB BC C A C
EB C CA BA BAA DB
Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS
SERGE
action
Finishing the side seams.
PLACE 1.2
Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.
SEW 1.3
Sew the side seams.
Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 10 How to read instructions1.
BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,
YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING
AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION
Thank you, Fayma Team