SEWING INSTRUCTIONS HIDDEN CANDY TOP FI02004 TABLE OF CONTENTS

METHODOLOGY ...... 3

Symbology ...... 3 Suggested equipment ...... 4 Things you need ...... 5 pieces ...... 6 technology ...... 7 How to read instructions ...... 10

SEWING ...... 11

1. Darts ...... 11 2. Cargo pockets ...... 12 3. ...... 19 4. ...... 27 5. Side seams ...... 31 6. Shoulder seams ...... 32 7. Neck ...... 34 8. Fell - Neck facing ...... 37 9. Armhole facing ...... 39 10. Secure facings to the garment stitch ...... 42 11. facing ...... 44 12. Placket ...... 48 13. Open the buttonholes ...... 48 14. Sewing ...... 49

SEWING SUGGESTION ...... 53

GLOSSARY ...... 59

Hidden candy top FI02004 Page 2 Table of contents METHODOLOGY SYMBOLOGY

PATTERN MARKINGS

SEWING LINE CUTTING LINE

CENTER LINE FOLD LINE

PLACEMENT LINE GRAINLINE

GATHER STRETCH

BUTTONHOLE

BUTTON PLACEMENT NOTCH

SEAM STRUCTURE

INTERFACING FABRIC

ZIPPER SERGE

CENTER LINE SERGER STITCH

SEWING LINE FOLD LINE

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 3 Symbology SUGGESTED EQUIPMENT

Sewing machine Iron Sewing Board Serger

Universal foot Overedge foot Serger foot Edge stitching Foot

Buttonhole foot Buttonhole Cutter Sewing Safety

Dressmaking for ripper Rotary cutter shears hand stitch

9

8

7 3 6

5

4 2

3

2 1 1

Thread snips chalk; Ruler soap or fabric pen

3” 4 8

3” 1” 1” 1

1 4 2

1 8

1” 1”

4 1”

8 5”

Tape measure Seam gauge Machine needle

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 4 Suggested equipment THINGS YOU NEED

• Fabric • Sewing thread • Sewing needle / Universal • Serger threads • Fusible • Maximum Eight 3/8” (1 cm) Buttons

The approximate minimum and maximum amount of fabric

BODY MEASUREMENTS cm

BODY HEIGHT cm

BUST cm cm MI N HIP cm

BODY HEIGHT cm

BUST cm cm MA X HIP cm

Recommended fabrics:

FABRIC TYPE g ELASTANE % Sateen Medium 0-2 % Stretch Sateen /6oz - 8oz (170g - 227g)/ Cotton Medium Heavy Linen Blends /8oz - 10oz (227g - 283g)/ Shirtings Poplin Suiting Woven

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 5 Things you need PATTERN PIECES

AB BB CB BA

A AC B C

CA DB EB DBA EBA

CE BE AE

BC DA EA AD CC BAA

TOP FABRIC PIECES

Front A Back Right B Back Le C Front Facing AB Back Facing Right BB Back Facing Le CB Front Armhole Facing Right AC Front Armhole Facing Le AD Back Armhole Facing Right BC Back Armhole Facing Le CC Right Placket BA Le Placket CA Inner Placket BAA Front Hem Facing AE Back Hem Facing Right BE Back Hem Facing Le CE Pocket Right EA Pocket Le DA Pocket Upper Flap Right EB Pocket Upper Flap Le DB Pocket Under Flap Right EBA Pocket Under Flap Le DBA

* Depending on the width of your fabric and on your body measurements, if your pattern pieces do not t the width of the fabric, you will need to divide them and make an additional line.

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 6 Pattern pieces SEWING TECHNOLOGY

Fabric key

Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of Right side of Wrong side of fabric fabric lining interfacing interfacing

Interfacing placement on garment

Laying out and cutting fabric

bias

cross grain selvage

lengthwise grain

Fabric grainlines: lengthwise; crosswise; bias grains.

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 7 Sewing technology =” =”

1. Place the patterns on a single layer of fabric. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. 2. Place the right side of the fabric facing down on the table. 3. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. All pattern grainlines are placed parallel to the selvage of the fabric. 4. When the fabric is delicate and slippery, draw or pin the patterns onto a layer of pattern paper.

Cutting the fabric. Snipping notches. Notches snipped in the fabric should be no longer than 1/8” (3 mm) in length. Mark points and matchpoints.

Fuse the interfacing to the fabric: Place the resin side of the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. Press the interfacing to the fabric by using heat, steam and pressure. To fuse, start on one edge, place the iron straight down, lean in, and add pressure for 20 seconds. Check the bonding by trying to peel the interfacing away from one corner of the fabric. The fusing should be secure. Let the fused fabric cool down. A er fusing, the interfacing and fabric will be stitched as one piece of fabric.

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 8 Sewing technology CB AE AD BB CE

BE AB BC C A C

EB C CA BA BAA DB

Place the patterns on a single layer of the fabric + interfacing. Be sure to place the patterns correctly following the pattern directions. Place the patterns on the fabric on the grain. Cut the fabric.

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 9 Sewing technology HOW TO READ INSTRUCTIONS

SERGE

action

Finishing the side seams.

PLACE 1.2

Place and pin the side seams with the right sides together. Match the notches and raw edges.

SEW 1.3

Sew the side seams.

Hidden candy top METHODOLOGY FI02004 Page 10 How to read instructions1.

BY PURCHASING A SEWING PATTERN,

YOU GET A COMPREHENSIVE SEWING

AND TECHNICAL INSTRUCTION

Thank you, Fayma Team