Jean-François Pellet is the partner and director of winemaking for Amavi Cellars and Pepper Bridge Winery Rocky Pond Estate style red offers fine tannins and well- honed structure matched by resounding Winery plum and dark cherry flavors that mingle Woodinville with details of vanilla and graphite. Picks tasting room Rocky Pond Estate Winery opened up warm stone and cedary overtones on openings a sleek tasting room in the hip, urban the lingering finish. $45 Andrew and Woodin Creek Village district. They’ve Rocky Pond 2019 Clos CheValle Courtney Browne borrowed a page from the playbook of with their daughter Do you know of a new winery, tasting room or wine bar? Vineyard Gewürztraminer, 91 Napa Valley wineries with illuminating pts. This elegant version leaps out Elliott and son Drop us a line at [email protected] chef-driven food and wine pairings. of the glass with aromas of lychee, Brooks There’s a ton of seating indoors, as well ginger, spice, honeysuckle and orange as two large outdoor patios. blossom. Crisply balanced on the David and Michelle Dufenhorst palate, exuding pear, apricot and zesty established the winery in 2013, building minerality on a sleek frame. $24 an estate winery and destination venue Visit: Tasting fees are $15 and $25; in Orondo, and setting up a tasting 13475 NE Village Square Dr, Suite 1010, room in Chelan. “The new tasting room Woodinville, (425) 949-9044; open Wed- in Woodinville will take our King County Sun, check website for current hours at and Northeastern Seattle offerings to www.rockypondwinery.com the next level,” says David Dufenhorst. In 2020 he brought on an impressive team to accomplish that goal companywide. Browne Family Vineyards Tacoma “Rocky Pond is all about experiences,” emphasizes John Ware, With tasting rooms in Walla Walla Spring Valley district of Walla Walla. who joined the winery as president in and downtown Seattle, Browne Family Spymaster 2017 The Continent early 2020. Ware, formerly with Quilceda Vineyards has opened a third one in , 93 pts. Only Creek for two decades, says their new Tacoma, not far from the Point Defiance 285 cases were made, all from the culinary program will raise the hospitality Zoo. “The excitement and vitality of the prized Bitner Block in the Browne Estate bar. “And our tasting room manager and Proctor District, along with its charming Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley. Ultra- wine educator in Woodinville, Holly La neighborhood feel, is what really Charcuterie savory, dark and brooding, revealing Porta-Jones, is a Level II Sommelier.” attracted us to this fantastic location,” board, melon & black plum and cassis framed with Leading the culinary program is says proprietor Andrew Browne. prosciutto, and red singed cedar, tea leaf, eucalyptus and veteran chef Douglas Setniker. He brings Renowned for exceptional quality coconut curry with underbrush. Fresh acidity runs through hazelnut-crusted nearly 30 years of high-touch catering and Bordeaux-style reds, Browne Family the long complex finish. $67 ling cod and expertise to the winery. “It’s a tasting Vineyards was built as a legacy to Browne Family Vineyards 2019 forbidden black rice room first and all about the wine—we Andrew Browne’s grandfather, William White Arrow Blend, 91 pts. A at Rocky Pond want the food to elevate the wine here, Bitner Browne. Bitner was a World study in contrasts is in play, leading and we’ve got a special menu just for our War II hero and attorney. Much of the with a creamy mouthfeel that snaps Rocks Society wine club membership,” look and feel of the tasting room is an to attention on the juicy midpalate, Setniker says. He’s created a dazzling extension of the Brownes' home, which displaying a complex swatch of menu of rotating small bites, weekly chef also incorporates nostalgic touches of grapefruit, yellow apple, pear and lime specials and multi-course wine dinners. Bitner's house in Springfield, Ohio. citrus. Deepening textural notes on the Browne Family Each menu item is thoughtfully paired Andrew and Courtney Browne, finish highlight stony mineral elements. Vineyards with the wines. along with their daughter Elliott and son $32 Blanc/Marsanne/Picpoul in Tacoma’s The quality of estate-grown fruit Brooks, moved to the South Sound in Recommended: 2018 Cabernet Proctor District shines in the wines, matched with a 2018 and reside on Fox Island. Sauvignon; 2017 Tribute Red Blend lot of talent from the winemaking and The tasting room is a feature of the Visit: $20-25 tasting flights; 2805 N vineyard teams. Acclaimed Napa Valley Madison 25 building, a mix of retail Proctor St, Tacoma, (253) 904-3066; winemaker Steve Leveque signed on as and apartments. “I’m excited to bring open daily, check website for details at a consultant to Rocky Pond in 2020 and the heart and hospitality of Browne Jason Smith of www.brownefamilyvineyards.com will work alongside winemaker Shane Family Vineyards from Walla Walla to Category 5 Cellars Collins. Leveque produced high-scoring Tacoma and to welcome our wine club in Woodinville wines at Robert Mondavi Winery, members,” says Courtney Browne. Category 5 Cellars Chalk Hill and Opus One. “This is Tasting room guests will also have Woodinville another building block in our mission to access to exclusive wines featuring Jason Smith’s first career was in high elevate Rocky Pond as the top Eastern single vineyards, unique varietals and tech, which prompted him to name his destination,” states small lot offerings not offered elsewhere. winery after the ethernet networking owner David Dufenhorst. With an all- Browne's award-winning reds and cable referred to as “Cat 5 wire.” Newly New talent at Rocky Pond includes chef star team of this caliber, Rocky Pond is whites are the real deal, flawlessly opened in the Winery Warehouse Doug Setniker (left), the winery’s Director of poised for greatness. executed with pure lines of grace and District in August 2020, Jason employs Culinary Experiences, and Holly La Porta- Rocky Pond 2017 Double D power. Winemaker John Freeman goes technology to create a unique tasting Jones (above), a Level II Sommelier and the Vineyard La Domestique Reserve, 92 to great lengths to create expressive venue. “All our lights are WiFi LED that Woodinville tasting room manager pts. Sultry and aromatic, this Bordeaux- wines from their estate vineyard in the can change between 16 million colors,”

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LEFT Collage of winemaker Jason Smith of Category 5 Cellars, driving a tractor at age nine, and his great grandfather Solonas Smith

he explains. “We can light the room to fit any occasion. Feel like watching the Hawks game at Category 5? We can accent the tasting room greens and blues. Taking your valentine out for tasting? Think lots of pinks and reds.” Jason grew up working in the orchard as a fourth generation family farmer, learning a firm work ethic along the way. After college, he embraced a career in the tech world, developing a natural passion for wine by his early 20s. When he burned out in the tech sector he switched gears and took enology classes at Northwest Wine Academy and was instantly hooked. “The older I get, I find myself being drawn back to my agriculture background, much like a goose flying south for the winter. My goal, outside of making kick-ass wines, is to help educate the consumer, so they understand where their food (wine Rocky Pond 2017 La Rocky Pond Spymaster 2017 The Browne Family Category 5 Cellars 2017 grapes in this case) comes from,” Domestique Reserve, 2019 Gewürztraminer, Continent Cabernet Vineyards 2019 White Dionysus Vineyard remarks Jason. 92 pts. 91 pts. Sauvignon, 93 pts. Arrow Blend, 91 pts. , 93 pts. The inaugural releases were sourced from top growers, including sites like Dionysus, Gamache, Dineen and Lawrence Vineyards. The results would be impressive for any seasoned veteran in the field, but doubly so for someone’s first time at bat. Category 5 Cellars 2017 Dionysus Vineyard Petit Verdot, 93 pts. An opulent style that displays an expressive sense of place, this red packs monumental structure with finesse, showcasing compact purple and black fruit, violet, dusty spice and earthy minerality. The taut acidity and carpet-plush tannins create lovely tension that rolls seamlessly through the mesmerizing finish. $40 Category 5 Cellars 2018 Albariño, 90 pts. Steely, with bright minerality led by floral notes of honeydew, pear, apricot and orange citrus. The crisp palate gushes with tropical flavors of pineapple and zesty lime that weave through the stony finish. $18 Recommended: Firewall Red Visit: 19501 144th Ave NE, Suite Bergevin Lane D-900, Woodinville; open Fri-Sun, Vineyards in check website for current hours at Walla Walla www.cat5cellars.com Category 5 Cellars Bergevin Lane 2016 Bergevin Lane 2016 Prospice Wines 2017 Bianchi Vineyards 2018 Albariño, Princess , Moonspell Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018 , ❭❭ 90 pts. 95 pts. Sauvignon, 92 pts. 94 pts. 90 pts. 018 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 190 top PICKS top PICKS drink washington first Wine Club Releases be a wine club insider

ant to sip wines that only Wa few insiders will ever get a chance to taste? That is one of the elite privileges of belonging to a winery club that offers their members limited releases. Many of our readers join multiple clubs because they know that members (aka “insiders”) drink better than the masses.

Bonus: they enjoy extra perks Columbia Winery Castillo de Feliciana The Walls Vineyards Maryhill Winery 2016 all year long, from bargains on 2016 LX2 Cabernet 2016 Bolsa Negra 2018 Wonderful Elephant Mountain prices to foodie events and other Sauvignon Reserve Red Wine Nightmare Vineyard Marvell GSM 95 pts. Flawless in 95 pts. This elegant red flows 94 pts. At-once beguiling, 93 pts. Savory, deep and memorable experiences. structure, with a creamy, with a fine silk texture and verging on opulent, but still complex, this red shows In this section, we review 28 plush texture that opens to harmonious flavors of dense fresh and youthful. Smoke, muscle, with firm structure and rich blackberry, deep dark blackberry, cassis and dark grilled meat and dark fruit refined flavors of blackberry, remarkable wines (many made in cherry and licorice flavors cherry flanked by gorgeous aromas are followed by earthy raspberry and currants small lots selected from the finest exquisitely inlaid with cedar crushed rock and deep purple flavors of leather, tobacco mingled with white pepper, fig and graphite details offset by notes that create a seamless and red stone fruit. Ends with and espresso. Stony minerality barrels) that club members get firm, polished tannins on the impression. Velvet-clad tannins verve, forged by iron notes and rides alongside grippy tannins their hands on first, or in some long and poetic finish. $110 grip the finish.$73 /Cab lasting acidity. $48 Tempranillo for the duration. $48

cases, totally exclusive access. ❭❭ Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Very limited at 106 cases, this is Wine club exclusive. 10-20% Offered first to members, and Premium Wine Club member a wine club exclusive. 10-20% club discounts apply. then to visitors of the winery. exclusive. 25% club discounts club discounts apply. 10-25% club discounts apply. apply.

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Tsillan Cellars 2018 Tinte Cellars 2017 Rocky Pond 2017 Brian Carter Cellars Chandler Reach Treveri Cellars Cairdeas Winery Ambassador Wines Estate Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon 2017 Big Daddy Winery 2016 2016 Reserve Rosé Lawrence Vineyard of Washington 2017 93 pts. Sumptuous and rich, 93 pts. Bursting with Reserve 93 pts. This dry Douro-style Carménère 93 pts. This special Brut 2019 Roussanne Estate Petit Verdot teeming with plump black sophistication, exhibiting 93 pts. This captivates red is sculpted with a mineral Yakima Valley rosé is richly satisfying, with 93 pts. A floral bouquet of 93 pts. Earthy notes abound in and red currants, vibrant aromas of black fruit and pencil with taut structure flowing streak that flows through a 93 pts. Sublime and alluring, a stellar beam of minerality honeysuckle and citrus tree this rendition, with impeccable blackberry, leather and anise shavings. Opulent in structure with alluring blackberry rich center of red plum, dark with savory spice, dried cut with fine beads and blossoms greet the nose structure that retains a lofty laced with copious black with a pillowy mouthfeel and reduction, cherry and violet currants, violet, dried orange herbs and Poblano pepper framed by expressive flavors with peach and melon. Silky feel. Crafted with luscious black pepper and spice notes that satiny tannins that contribute to flavors backlit by expressive peel and a mix of savory details that coalesce with of strawberry, pink grapefruit in texture with a creamy fruit, interwoven by dark cherry contribute to the opulence the ethereal palate, heightened graphite, anise and sage. herbs. Shows precision to condensed flavors of crushed and yellow currant. Ends rich mouthfeel and flattering paste, black olive, and crushed on the firm finish. The fruit is with cassis, blackberry, cocoa, Firm tannins extend the finish the intricate balance of fruit, raspberry and rich cherry that with lingering notes of yeast flavors of pear, hazelnut and rock accents, the flavors delve 100% estate-grown from the graphite, loam and minerality with emerging river rock and spice, fresh acidity and deepen exponentially on the roll and gingerbread. $55 limestone minerality that deep on the balanced finish Lake Chelan AVA. $34 that invade the finish.$48 tobacco leaf accents. $60 tannin elements. $50 drawn-out finish.$35 / echo on the finish.$30 boosted by sweet tannins. $75

Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Club member Perks: Wine club exclusive, only 73 10% discount on bottles, Pre-release to club members Wine club exclusive release Wine club exclusive, only 80 Available exclusively to Reserve Released exclusively to wine Wine club exclusive, only 100 cases produced. 15-25% club 20% discount on cases. only. through at least January 1, 2021. cases produced. 15-20% club Club members. club members every fall. cases produced. 10-20% club discounts apply. 15-20% club discounts apply. discounts apply. Limited quantity produced. discounts apply.

050 Washington Tasting Room.com Washington Tasting RooM.com 510 Transforming trends that will propel RADITION, not transformation, is often green and conservation practices that improve Washington into the future with... the ethos in wine country. The foremost bottom line quality in ways everyone can feel goal is always to make the best wines possible good about. and there’s often an economic barrier for small wineries unable to afford to invest in Wines That Reflect The ‘Whole Picture’ green technology. Yet a growing number of wineries in Washington are taking steps toward caught up with Don and Judy Phelps, t WEowners of Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards, reducing their carbon footprint. Organic farming, lanet- riendly about their use of earth-friendly techniques for P F renewable solar energy, recyclable packaging, and sustainable management of energy, water and soil grape growing and wine production. Judy, the are among the successes taking root within the winemaker, and Don, the grower, both said they industry. made a conscious decision 15 years ago to go WINES We talked to five wineries on the front line of organic, based on their personal beliefs. ❭❭ written by Pam and Gary Baker

Don Phelps (farthest right) picking fruit with his harvest crew at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards in the Lake Chelan Valley AVA

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Doing things that are environmentally friendly and sustainable are always foremost in our minds.

— rob mercer, Mercer Estates Winery/ICAN Wines

volume, wine shipments cost less. Alexander says, “Sustainability is the Using smaller, lighter-weight cardboard winery’s mission,” adding that she and boxes without the need for plastic owner Mike Martin think about the separators provides a better, safer way topic every day. Indeed, utilizing every to protect both the environment (less possible planet-friendly technique in trash) and the product (no glass). modernizing the winery’s facility seems Although the Mercers still use to be their goal. Judy Phelps is the winemaker at Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards and Don Phelps is the winegrape grower bottles for their other wine tiers, the The winery is currently in the canned wines are proving ever more middle of following a systematic, popular and have enabled the winery to step-by-step, six-month process of The Phelps’ operation was the first that reflect both the vineyard and expand its marketing to “grab and go” becoming a B-Corp certified business, I made a decision I LIVE (Low Input and winemaking practices represented by convenience stores. which verifies a company’s reduced Enology) and Salmon-safe certified the individual tiles pictured on the label Brenda says the “ICAN” concept environmental impact utilizing eco- wasn’t going to spray vineyard and winery in North Central showing the processes that went on in was a bootstrap project from the start, friendly business practices. “We’re something unique to the winery. Her constantly thinking about our use of anything in the vineyard Washington. LIVE means you use the the vineyard and winery. minimum amount of material to protect Their first release was a single energy behind it conjures up that plastic, the use of energy, our packaging, iconic image of World War II’s Rosie and recycling to minimize our impact that required me to your fruit and do your job. Don says he vineyard, single-varietal sparkling uses only organic sprays and fertilizers 2019 Pét-Nat méthode the Riveter and the accompanying on the earth,” says Alexander. wear a respirator. in the vineyard. ancestrale that scored 93 points expression, “We can do it!” With recently installed solar As Don explains, “I made a decision by Washington Tasting Room Magazine. Rob says they learned how to panels on the roof, The Walls winery get started by working with can practically glows from renewable — Don Phelps, I wasn’t going to spray anything in the Judy says, “It’s a direct expression of Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards vineyard that required me to wear a the vineyard.” Their second release suppliers. While the canned Rosé and energy saving. The winery’s $200,000 respirator.” under this label was an amphora aged Chardonnay have been on the market investment in solar technology has saved Judy adds, “We thought as we Cabernet Franc that is much along the for a while, the ICAN hard seltzers roughly 100 tons of CO2 emissions, ICAN wines and hard seltzers are became the first to become LIVE line of a Beaujolais wine with no oak were only launched a few months ago. the equivalent of planting 5,000 totally recyclable and come in a certified, wouldn’t it be great if other influence and released just 9 months According to the Mercers, the science trees. Along with the excess power lightweight resealable can that can be reused as a water bottle wineries around Lake Chelan followed after harvest. Bright, fresh and fruity, it behind the ICAN concept raises the our lead?” They were the ninth winery is already developing a following. quality of the wines and seltzers in both to open in the Chelan Valley, and body and mouthfeel. Rob says, “Doing things that protecting the Chelan Lake watershed Lightweight, Recyclable was an essential consideration. are environmentally friendly and Their long-term commitment to & Resusable sustainable are always foremost in our follow standards which use lower you haven’t heard about the success minds.” Using high quality estate- amounts of approved material is paying If of canned wines and recyclable grown fruit from their sustainably off in the vineyard by producing reusable packaging, then you haven’t farmed vineyards, the Mercers are healthier fruit and increasing flavors had the delightful opportunity to talk confident their use of recyclable, of the wines. Plus, their organic with Rob and Brenda Mercer, owners reusable cans will continue to grow in farming practices are more appealing to of Mercer Estates Winery in Prosser. the future. customers. Known for their conservation efforts Like true pioneers, they educated and responsible stewardship of the land, Taking A Holistic Approach themselves following a “trial and the Mercers use lightweight, recyclable, To Winemaking error” process of implementing more reusable aluminum cans to package the name “Walls” natural vineyard maintenance practices, their ICAN wines and ICAN hard being a play on including utilizing native-insects like seltzers. Think Chardonnay and Rosé Despite the locals’ nickname for the nearby the praying mantis, alternate mowing in half bottle sizes with a resealable cap. penitentiary, there is no confining The between rows, and hand pruning the As Rob points out, “You not only have Walls Vineyards in Walla Walla to a trellis system in the vineyards. a totally recyclable product, it can be limit on solar technology and renewable Syrah grapes from Hard Row to They have recently introduced a reused as a water bottle.” Hoe’s estate vineyard energy. General manager Carrie new label: “Whole Picture” wines With half the weight at half the

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“We’re constantly thinking about our use of plastic, Solar panels at Amavi Cellars/Pepper Bridge vineyard the use of energy, our packaging, and recycling to minimize our impact on the earth.”

— Carrie Alexander, The Walls Vineyards

generated by the solar panels, Alexander estate vineyard. But its philosophy goes says, “The winery also makes a beyond responsible farming according monthly donation to support renewable to co-owner and winemaker Jean- energy with Pacific Power’s Blue Sky François Pellet. program.” The winery has one of the The vineyard is farmed organically, largest solar energy installations in and the wine is made with a minimum Washington, no longer uses capsules on of intervention. “The Walls strives to its wine bottles, changed all its lighting take a holistic approach to everything, to LED, and uses compostable wine including relying on an increased usage shipping packages made from recyclable of neutral oak barrels for aging,” says materials. It hasn’t used Styrofoam in “Although you can’t change the world in a minute, you do it because it’s the Alexander. its packaging in years. Other measures include switching to Pellet grew up in Switzerland where right thing to do for the earth and future generations.” lighter-weight glass bottles, composite he says, “You can recycle your whole natural cork called Diam that utilizes house. We never put glass or a battery — Jean-François Pellet, Amavi & Pepper Bridge Winery the earth-friendly processes (and in the garbage. It’s something I’ve been virtually eliminates cork-taint), and born and raised with.” Using eco- since 2009. Currently, they operate hired consultant Phillipe Armenier 100% organic cotton bags made in friendly practices in his grape growing, three vineyards in the Red Mountain from Santa Rosa, CA who advised him the USA for wine carriers. They’ve wine production and distribution just AVA that are certified Biodynamic by not to convert all of the vineyards to reduced the use of foil capsules, and use comes naturally. the Demeter Association, and two more biodynamic at once. He recommended shipping packaging made from recycled To find an alternative to using vineyards that are farmed organically. that Tom start slowly and see how he cardboard pulp, even using paper tape Styrofoam packaging, Pellet talked to Both organic and biodynamic liked it. to seal the boxes so that no plastic is vendors at trade shows both in Europe farms grow their food without the use In 2009 they started biodynamically used in the shipping of their wine. and the US. It was at the Unified of pesticides, herbicides, or GMOs farming in their main estate Hedges Because glass recycling is not Wine and Grape Symposium where (genetically modified organisms). Both Vineyards and Christophe’s four acres available in Walla Walla, the winery is he discovered a packaging company, practices are good for the environment, of Cabernet Sauvignon. By 2011 both installing a glass crusher for recycling Fleetwood-Fibre Packaging, that relying on natural remedies to combat vineyards were certified. Then in 2017 used wine bottles. The ground glass produces natural-colored, not dyed, insects and disease. But biodynamic they converted their Syrah vineyard can be used in landscaping or refired in cardboard cases that wrap and protect farming, developed by an Austrian to biodynamic and started organically large rock kilns for fabricating glass art the wine during shipping. Pellet says, scientist and philosopher named farming the remaining two vineyards. objects. The Walls is also installing an “It’s not a cheap package, but it’s strong Rudolph Steiner in 1924, takes it Tom Hedges says they will both be onsite electric car charging station that and safe.” Amavi hasn’t experienced further. It regulates farming practices certified by their next harvest in 2021. runs off of solar power for customers any problems with breakage. The through the lunar calendar. Planting, The vineyards employ 40 free who drive electric vehicles. cases come in four different sizes to pruning, and harvesting is done by roaming chickens that love to eat These cleaner practices not only accommodate small or large shipments hand. And in wine production, no pests, such as cutworms. They use generate cost savings for The Walls, of wine with one type of insert that fits Sarah Hedges Goedhart digs up commercial yeast is added to the wine cow manure as a natural fertilizer and they generate respect from happier all. a Champagne bottle buried in the during fermentation. harvest by the phases of the moon. The customers who appreciate the winery’s In the near future Pellet says they vineyard. Traditional biodynamic Tom Hedges and his wife, Anne- winery’s onsite chefs use produce grown farming includes burying cow horns concern for protecting the environment. are looking at ways to use less and Marie, lived in several different in the biodynamic garden and eggs from to enrich the soil. less water. “Keep trying to push the countries before settling in Washington the chickens in the kitchen. When envelope,” he says. “Although you can’t Compostable Wine Shipping and starting Hedges Cellars in 1986. they have excess eggs and produce, they change the world in a minute, you do it Packages Their son, Christophe, now handles the donate it to a local food bank. because it’s the right thing to do for the marketing and their daughter, Sarah The winery currently makes two 100% earth and future generations.” Certified sustainable in Hedges Goedhart, is the winemaker. fully biodynamic wines and others that 2009, Amavi Cellars in Walla Walla Back in 2009, Christophe approached are organic. Sarah hopes to add sheep The Walls Vineyards employ solar Biodynamic Grape Growing his father with an idea about going and goats to the mix so that one day panels, organic farming, green continually seeks nature-friendly packaging, even lighter bottles alternatives. For example, composting Hedges Family Estate has organic. Tom Hedges admits he was a Hedges Family Estate might be a fully and composite natural corks and no harsh chemicals are used in the The embraced biodynamic farming bit skeptical but open to the idea. He self-contained farm.

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