From Commuter to Tourist

travel stories inspiration cycling resources ENJOY YOUR FREE ISSUE!

Adventure Cyclist adventure cycling association special issue www.adventurecycling.org $4.95

going the distance: From Commuter to Tourist

PLUS: bike Touring 101 TRAVERSING CUBA LOST IN THE LONE STAR STATE BE AN ADVENTURE CYCLIST AARON TEASDALE

Join Now For These Great Membership Benefits: Adventure Cyclist magazine • Cyclists’ Travel Guide: Bikes, Resources, How-To • Discounts on our bicycle maps • The best bike routes in North America • Members-only enjoyable group cycling tours • Outreach programs to make bicycling and bike travel more accessible and popular.

Adventure Cycling Route Network Over 41,000 miles of routes. To join go to www.adventurecycling.org Adventure Cycling Association’s mission is to inspire people of all ages to travel by bicycle and to help cyclists explore the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, and self-discovery. We do this by creating bike routes for the nation, getting Americans bicycling, and supporting bicycling communities. Adventure Cycling is a 501(c)3 non-profit.

2 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG Special Issue contents

is published nine times each year by the Adventure Cycling Association, a nonprofit service organization for recreational bicyclists. Individual membership costs $40 yearly to U.S. addresses and includes a subscription to Adventure Cyclist, including the Cyclists’ Travel Guide, and discounts on Adventure Cycling maps. The entire contents of Adventure Cyclist are copyrighted by Adventure Cyclist and may not be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission from Adventure Cyclist. All rights reserved.

Printed on 30% Recycled Fiber

Our Cover Horst Hammerschmidt snapped this surreal scene of riders gliding on the Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt lake, located in Bolivia.

(left) Cyclists on Adventure Cycling’s TOM GORDON Colorado Alpine Loop tour celebrate lost in the lone star state by Laura Crawford and Russ Roca at the top of Engineer Pass. 08 Texas hasn’t been on the radar of many bike travelers, but it should be. MISSION The mission of Adventure Cycling TRAVERSING CUBA by Matthew Kadey Association is to inspire people of all 14 While governments remain mired in the past, cyclists are finding a jewel in the Caribbean. ages to travel by bicycle. We help cyclists explore the landscapes and history of America for fitness, fun, From commuter to tourist by Brendan Leonard and self-discovery. 18 One man’s journey from utility cycling to the freedom of bicycle travel.

AARON TEASDALE CAMPAIGNS Our strategic plan includes three mckenzie pass revisited byWillie Weir major campaigns: 24 Companions return to an earlier adventure. • Creating Bike Routes for America • Getting Americans Bicycling • Supporting Bicycling Communities BICYCLE TRAVEL 101 by Adventure Cycling Staff 28 Let Adventure Cycling’s accumulated knowledge lead you down the road or trail. How to Reach Us To join, change your address, or ask questions about membership, visit us departments COLUMNS online at www.adventurecycling.org or call (800) 755-2453 or (406) 721-1776 WAYPOINTS mechanical advantage / Jan Heine 06 30 email: A review of today’s bicycle lighting options [email protected] geared up 34 Subscription Address: cyclists’ kitchen / Nancy Clark 32 Adventure Cycling Association companions wanted Protein and cyclists: How much do you need? P.O. Box 8308 38 Missoula, MT 59807 39 OPEN ROAD GALLERY 36 Cyclesense / John Schubert Headquarters: The 10-speed experiments Adventure Cycling Association LETTERS 150 E. Pine St. Missoula, MT 59802 04 LETTER from the DIRECTOR 05 LETTERs from our readers

ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 Letter from the Director ADVENTURE CYCLIST Why Join? Special Issue www.adventurecycling.org The magic of membership in North America’s largest cycling group editor michael deme [email protected] art director greg siple As director of Adventure Cycling Association, I [email protected] technical editor definitely have an interest in encouraging you john schubert [email protected] to join as a member. But to be honest, I have also FIELD editor michael mccoy witnessed the magic that can come with membership in our [email protected] contributing writers unique organization. I have met hundreds of individuals dan d'amBROSIO NANCY clark willie WEIR JAN heine who have read this magazine, patrick o'grady used our website, or talked Copy Editor phyllis picklesimer with our staff and volunteers, advertising director and have taken that first big rick bruner 509.493.4930 step toward traveling by bike advertising@ adventurecycling.org — whether it’s a quick bike STAFF overnight trip or something executive director more challenging, like a week, a jim sayer month, or even a year (!) on the [email protected] chief operations officer road. sheila snyder, cpa I have met even more cyclists membership & Development julie huck Amanda lipsey who already travel by bike, but amy CORBIN JOShua tack want to keep the fire burning — by discounted maps to adventures across thomas bassett alex campbell media reading the stories of others; sharing North America, and access to affordable winona bateman michael mccoy journals through our web-based Ride and personally-enriching tours. Perhaps alison riley publications Registry; buying maps to study (and best of all, you get to belong to a large, michael demE GREG siple dream about) during those short, gray big-hearted community of people — not derek gallaghER RAChel stevens information technology days of winter; learning about new just cyclists, but people who are seeking john SIEBER RIChard darne products and travel techniques; or meet- fun, fitness, and self-discovery on one john eikens ing fellow riders at one of our member of the greatest, most endearing vehicles tours arlen hall mo mislivets gatherings, through our social media net- ever invented: the bicycle. paul hansbarger madeline mckiddy works like Facebook, or on our guided Please flip through these pages, check routes and mapping carla majernik jennifer milyko tours. out our website, dip into our social virginia sullivan casey greene nathan taylor melissa thompson And then I have met the remarkable media sites, and come explore the magic sales and marketing people (now we’re talking thousands) of bicycle travel. You never know what teri maloughney who travel by bicycle because it has you’ll find — on the next page or just cyclosource ted bowman sarah raz fundamentally changed their lives by over that hill. office manager giving them a sense of freedom, intro- beth petersen ducing them to their future spouse or Sincerely, board of directors best friend, leading them down a new president career path, or rejuvenating their faith in carol york vice president humanity. wally werner Whatever their reasons for joining, secretary nearly 45,000 people have decided to andy baur treasurer make Adventure Cycling a part of their andy huppert lives — and that number increases every Jim Sayer board members jason boucher todd copley year. When you join, you get nine issues Executive Director jennifer garst george mendes of Adventure Cyclist (truly one of the [email protected] jeff miller donna o'neal best travel magazines around), access to the digital Cyclists’ Yellow Pages (the best guide to global bike travel resources),

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 Letters from our Readers

Remembering a first tour, recognizing Rodriguez roaming inspired, riding overnight

Trying new things well as continental U.S. touring. We have and inspire others in the community to The August/September 2011 article by one and have completed five lengthy over- get out there and experience the thrills Willie Weir “Uncomfortable” reminded seas trips. The model we have is a “Travel that come from traveling by bicycle! me of my first bicycle tour. I had never Toucan” which we had equipped with Greg Hoffman ridden more than 35 flat miles on my 26-inch wheels so one can mount large tires Ozark, Missouri Sears three-speed. I read an article about if the conditions are likely to be unpaved cycling the Natchez Trace so I bought and wide-range grip shifting for easy gear Try a bike overnight a Bianchi Advantage at a going-out-of- selection in rough conditions. It breaks After a long absence, I renewed my mem- business sale from a local bike shop. I did down via S&S Couplers and packs in two bership with Adventure Cycling. i just one ride around the Vicksburg battlefield airline-legal cases. It’s an ideal touring tan- read the March issue of the magazine in order to get in shape for the ride which dem bike. It has plenty of rack mounts for and discovered your bikeovernights.org would average 65 miles a day for 13 days, panniers and the handling seems to be ideal through Jill Homer’s column. Gosh, what with camping each night. The tour was for bike trails as well as the cobblestones a fantastic idea, and the Bike Overnights led by Adventure Cycling in the early and narrow roads of Europe. blog (bikeovernights.org) is so fresh and 1980s. We had a SAG wagon for our Larry Swanson fun to read. I recently started camping tents and gear, and 15 of us started out, Salt Lake City, Utah and have done short overnight trips. I stopping the first night in a field behind never thought of doing the same on a Bubba’s Bar B Que. There was one toilet Mr. Hosteling bike. Count me as one of those folks who and no showers for all of us. Yes, this was I enjoyed reading “Bill Nelson: Mr. thought bike touring was synonymous a little out of my comfort zone as the only Hosteling” by June J. Siple in the with epic, week-long trips. I can’t wait to camping I had done was in Fort Dix, New February issue. As teenagers vaguely try a bike overnight. Thank you for the Jersey, when I was in the army. I sur- aware of Bikecentennial in the summer of inspiration and the great resources on vived and have been touring ever since. 1976, two friends and I loaded our bikes your blog. The only change — I now ride a Tour for our first multi-day bike tour from Anita Tyler Easy recumbent. Long Island to Massachusetts. We spent Edgewood, Maryland Francis Celino our first night at the Bantam Lake Youth Metairie, Louisiana Hostel in Connecticut. Little did we know Your letters are welcome. Due to the volume of mail and email we receive, we cannot print every letter. we were staying at a hostel started by We may edit letters for length and clarity. If you do Don’t forget Rodriguez someone who was already at the heart of not want your comments to be printed in Adventure Your list of touring bikes, and specifically the burgeoning bicycle-touring boom in Cyclist, please state so clearly. Please include your tandems, omits one of the very best: The the U.S. I’m still riding and touring today, name and address with your correspondence. Email Rodriguez “take apart” tandem from R&E and the article reignited a desire to use your comments, questions, or letters to editor@ adventurecycling.org or mail to Editor, Adventure Cycles in Seattle is perfect for overseas as my experience and passion to encourage Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

MAPS, MAPS, MAPS North America’s best bicycle maps Over 41,000 miles of cyclist-created routes Maps feature: Turn-by-turn directions, elevation profiles, camping, lodging, bike shops, riding conditions, and more. www.adventurecycling.org/routes

4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 News you can use from the world of bicycle travel by Michael McCoy WayPoints

BYWAYS AND BIKEWAYS You’ve no doubt heard of scenic byways but have you heard of scenic bikeways? Maybe not, since Oregon is apparently the only state to have designated such routes. As reported by Jonathan Maus of BikePortland.org, the Oregon Parks and Recreation Department Commission recently “voted unanimously to designate three new State Scenic Bikeways bringing the total to four, and the new routes join the existing Willamette Valley Scenic Bikeway.” The trio of new routes are the 108-mile Blue Mountain Century, the 106-mile Three Sisters Bikeway, and the 179-mile Old West Bikeway, which shares itself with the TransAmerica Bicycle Trail in the John Day area. CYCLEPEDIA “Each route comes with a Beautiful book shows bicycle design over time marketing plan and the full support from city officials,” The new book Cyclepedia three dozen bicycles falling poured into the bicycle in the reported Maus. “Routes are (from Thames & Hudson in under the Touring category are last century and a quarter, but nominated by local communi- Europe and Chronicle Books a stunning ultralight aluminum also the design and artistry. ties and are then put through in North America), is a visual bike from France known as the Anyone who respects the lore, a rigorous application process exploration of the bicycle, cen- Mercier Mecadural Pelissier history, and beauty of bicycles … Approved and adopted tering on 100 iconic models (circa 1950); a Bob Jackson needs a copy of this book.” routes use existing roads and from the past 100 years. The 2002 Super Legend custom Without a doubt, this book paths and, while they don’t book features the unusual and tourer (one of only 120 made); was made for permanent come with bike-specific infra- the groundbreaking — bicycles an Alex Moulton Speedsix residence on your coffee table. structure improvements, they of unexpected beauty, inspired 17-inch-wheel bike from 1965; The photos alone, which just receive turn-by-turn signs.” design, and sometimes short- and a most peculiar-looking about anyone would enjoy, are According to Terry Richard lived (or never-lived) popularity. 1939 recumbent out of France worth the price of admission. of The Oregonian, “Tourism The 100 bikes included are called the Sironval Sportplex. Also included are detailed promoters expect it to draw grouped by type, although Time Out London had this to technical specifications that cyclists from around the world some fall under more than one say in a review of Cyclepedia, will make even the dedicated as word spreads and the pro- category: mountain, racing, calling it “A sumptuous collec- collector and hard-core techy gram grows.” singlespeed, touring, kids’, tion of machines that power- squeal with joy. So look for it Visit oregonscenicbikeways. tandems, urban, folding, cargo, fully illustrates not only the at your favorite bookstore or org to learn more. and curiosities. Among the engineering precision man has your favorite online vendor.

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 BIKE OVERNIGHTS If you haven’t already done so, you should check out Adventure Cycling’s Bike Overnights website at bike overnights.org. An ever- growing number of one- and two-night (and sometimes longer) overnight adventures appear on the site, contributed by rider-writer-photographers from New York to New Zealand — although so far the majority are from the conti- TYLER KELLEN nental U.S. Adventure Cycling writer/media specialist Michael U.S. Bicycle Route System McCoy, who is overseeing and Connecting people, communities, and the nation organizing the site, says he’d like to receive write-ups from Adventure Cycling is working ies from state to state. In some Route), moving the route to all of the states not yet repre- with national, state, local and states, cycling advocates are roads with less traffic or with sented. nonprofit leaders to create what developing routes and coor- bicycle facilities. Progress “So far, we have several will likely be the largest official dinating efforts with the state continues in other states as rides from Texas, Washington, cycling network in the world — transportation agency. In other well, with USBR corridors and California,” Mac says, a U.S. Bicycle Route System states, the state agency is lead- being recognized in bike plans “along with one to three rides (USBRS) — with the sup- ing while collaborating closely and policies or route criteria from maybe 17 other states. port of our members and the with volunteers from cycling/ being developed by agencies. We’d really like to see some- SRAM Cycling Fund, Surdna trail organizations and the local Impressively, there are 41 states thing from Hawaii, Alaska, Foundation, Lazar Foundation, communities.Finally, some plus the District of Columbia Iowa, Florida …” To check out New Belgium Brewery, Tawani states are forming work teams working at some level on U.S. which states are and are not Foundation, and the American made up of agency stakehold- Bicycle Routes. While many are represented, go to the Bike Association of State Highway ers and the cycling and trail only in the planning phase, a Overnights home page and and Transportation Officials community. While some routes great number are transforming view the “Categories” list on (AASHTO). The good news is being developed are completely the corridors into routes and will the right-hand side of your that this system will help cre- new, others are existing routes be nominating these within the screen. ate better riding conditions and and include state or regional next couple of years. “I believe this program has more visibility for cycling in all networks and the integration of In addition, the system has the potential to inspire hun- parts of the U.S. Adventure Cycling’s 41,399- drawn the interest of key nation- dreds, maybe thousands of The system is developing mile Route Network. Excitingly, al leaders, like Representative new bicycle travelers,” Mac through partnerships between new routes were designated by Peter DeFazio, a leader on adds. “And if someone tries bicycle and trail advocates and AASHTO in the spring of 2011. the U.S. House Committee out an overnight, he or she state and local transportation These include USBR 20 across on Transportation, and U.S. might be on the road to a authorities. The interstate routes central Michigan and USBR 1 Transportation Secretary Ray future cross-country ride. Or are submitted to AASHTO for in Maine and New Hampshire. LaHood, who is blogging not — there’s nothing wrong cataloging and number designa- periodically about USBRS with sticking to the shorter tions. Adventure Cycling began progress. While the system is rides. We just want to see providing staff support in 2005 relatively inexpensive to develop, people out there doing it!” and now provides extensive incentive funding for states to A couple of representative technical assistance to agen- further plan, sign, and develop Bike Overnight titles include cies and cycling/trail volunteers facilities along the routes will “Seeking Comfort from the across the nation. create a system more in line Heat in Comfort, Texas” and Since AASHTO approved with the effective and popular “Embracing a Child’s Pace: the national plan that states networks created in Europe and Multi-day Bike Trip on the Erie are using to coordinate route Canada. Canal.” development, there’s been In Alaska routes that link ferry To learn more about the “We’re also beefing up the significant movement by states ports and National Parks were efforts to create the largest non-ride-description content to transform broadly defined also designated: USBR 8, 108, official bike route system in the of the site,” Mac says. “You’ll corridors into specific routes 208, 95, 87, and 97. Virginia world, visit www.adventure begin seeing more and more that connect urban, suburban, updated portions of USBR 1 cycling.org/usbrs. gear reviews, how-to info, and rural areas. Leadership var- (on the Atlantic Coast Bicycle travel tips, and camp-meal recipes.”

6 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 7 Lost in the Lone Star State

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 by Laura Crawford and Russ Roca

8 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 TEXAS - 2

Texas is perhaps one of the least likely T H R bicycle touring destinations in the U.S. O N

N E W M E X I C O E When imagining Texas, a cyclist’s head is H FT WORTH T

filled with the image of angrily speeding Carlsbad Caverns NP F O

S GRANBURY

drivers in pick-up trucks, and endless days N I N O R T H - C E N T R A L Guadalupe EL PASO A T E X A S of sandy desert and cactus. We’ve all heard Mountains NP L GLEN ROSE P Peco the myriad negative stereotypes and, due W E S T s Riv to its sheer immensity, simply crossing the T E X A S er VAN HORN T E X A S state is a feat in itself. For us, however, VALENTINE riding through the Lone Star State was ALPINE one of the great highlights of our recent MARFA Pedernales MARATHON SP AUSTIN FREDERICKSBURG Y 15-month, 10,000-mile trek around the U.S. R T KERRVILLE N What makes Texas so great is precisely U LUCKENBACH O R C TERLINGUA io L L the fact that it is so big and varied. Far H I G ra West Texas is completely different from M E X I C O nd Big Bend NP e SAN ANTONIO the Hill Country, which itself is entirely different from East Texas and the Gulf, casey greene and the Plains of the North. Lumping the Far West Texas lenging conditions, it is also one of the most state into one dry, sandy image does it a This part of Texas is the dusty hidden fascinating corners of the country and will great disservice. In this one state, you can gem of the state, sandwiched between New introduce you to some of the friendliest experience a wide range of culture, nature, Mexico and Mexico. As one of the most people you’ll ever meet. food, and people. Texas also has an incred- remote parts of America, it is vast, empty, We entered Far West Texas near ible network of roads, which means it’s quiet, and full of that desert cowboy imag- Guadalupe (pronounced Guad-a-loop) easy to find a quiet one that’s perfect for ery. Far West Texas can be a difficult place Mountains National Park (on Highway 180- cycling. Because Texas is so large, we’d like that will push you and demand awareness 62), just across the border from Carlsbad, to offer up our two favorite regions to get and preparation. You will often encounter New Mexico. The park features the highest you started in planning your own Texas long, desolate stretches with very few, if point in Texas (8,751 feet), so it’s well worth cycling adventure. any, services. Despite the sometimes chal- the stop. Unlike many National Parks with

Camping in style. Laura prepares a meal at one of the many excellent campgrounds in the Texas State Park system.

10 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 11 TEXAS - 2 casey greene

The rugged west. The roads of Far West Texas provide many a quiet mile for traveling cyclists, like this one in Big Bend National Park.

paved roads that traverse the reserve, 90 through the funky little towns of Marfa, New York art lovers and dusty Wrangler- Guadalupe has no vehicle infrastructure. If Alpine, and Marathon, gaining access to wearing ranchers. In the 1970s, the mini- you want to explore it, you have to hike in. Big Bend National Park. Highway 90 is malist artist Donald Judd adopted Marfa Even without the hikes, however, you can mostly free of traffic because most travelers as his new hometown. Now Marfa is home get a sweeping view of the valley below take the interstate, which means that you’ll to the Judd Foundation and the Chinati from the visitor center and campground. have peaceful riding conditions and you’ll Foundation, which house world-class From Guadalupe Mountains National need to be very self-sufficient (read: carry modern art. You’ll also find some of the Park, head south on Highway 54 into the lots of water!). best pizza in the country at the Pizza small town of Van Horn, along Adventure From Van Horn you’ll ride through the Foundation and a “hotel” where you can Cycling’s Southern Tier Route. If you’re small town of Valentine. When we passed stay in refurbished trailers or a teepee (El looking for a relaxing refuge from the through, all the shops had been shut- Cosmico). desert sun and dusty roads, the Hotel El tered. All but one public building, the Kay Next along Highway 90 is Alpine, the Capitan is very welcoming to bicycle tour- Johnson Library, was closed. This little gem largest town in the area. Alpine is home to ists. Renowned architect Henry C. Trost was financed and built by folks in the area an Amtrak station, a fantastic independent was responsible for the design of the hotel. and also provided an opportunity to get bookstore, and the annual Cowboy Poetry Trost, a Midwesterner who moved to El water. Near Valentine you’ll stumble upon Festival. It is also the best place to stock up Paso in 1903, was heavily influenced by the Marfa Prada, an art installation made to before heading into Big Bend. Just beyond the Chicago School of architecture and look like a Prada retail store, complete with Alpine is the tiny town of Marathon, designed many other buildings in Far West shoes and handbags from the 2005 Prada centered around an Old West-style Main Texas. collection. It was met with mixed reactions Street. You’ll now find art galleries, the From Van Horn, you have two options, when it opened, including being burgled Gage Hotel, and incredible food and hospi- Highway 90 or Interstate 10 (Cycling on of all merchandise (the installation no lon- tality. There is even a hostel made entirely interstates in Texas is discouraged but not ger has pairs of shoes, just unmatched from papercrete (a construction method prohibited.) I-10 has more services along singles). that utilizes paper and clay), where you can the way, but we chose to follow Highway In Marfa you’ll find a fascinating mix of stay free if you’re bike touring.

10 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 11 TEXAS - 3

Shoppers delight. Funky shops adorn Texas. When in Luchenbach, be sure to stock up for the Texas Hat Festival.

To head into Big Bend from Alpine, ride steel structures to create accommodations color. It’s traditional to have a drink on The south along Highway 118. It’s approximate- for passing travelers. Cowhead has a small Porch while watching the sun set against ly 80 miles, and there are very few oppor- bathhouse with on-demand hot water and the mountains. Locals and travelers mingle tunities to stop for the night along the way. a saloon with wireless internet! for impromptu jam sessions and storytell- We found ourselves at Cowhead Ranch, a Continuing on Highway 118 will take ing. Plenty of lodging is nearby, including small replica of a western town run by a you to Study Butte-Terlingua. Head west the Terlingua Camping Hostel, which has warm-hearted cowboy named Chris, who just a few miles on FM170 into Terlingua an old school bus that has been converted hand-built the plywood and corrugated Ghost Town to soak up some true local into a kitchen/lounge. For the hardy cyclist, we recommend a ride into Big Bend National Park and camping/lodging in Chisos Basin. But be prepared for a challenge. From the main road, it’s a five-mile, 2,100-foot climb into Chisos Basin. Although it’s tough to get to, it’s an amazing place to hike and camp, nestled in a ring of mountains. Far West Texas is full of experiences that we guarantee you will not find anywhere else. But a word of caution, conditions can be harsh. Distances between services can be very long, so plan ahead and be sure you always carry extra food and water.

The Hill Country & North-Central Texas The Hill Country is roughly located in the middle of the state and is anchored on the east by the capital city of Austin. Prada Marfa. A sculpture by Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset outside Valentine, Texas. You’ll find quaint towns with German and

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 TEXAS - 3

Scandinavian heritage, old stone farmhous- nearby Guadalupe River. es, incredible wildflower blooms during Lockhart is known as the barbecue the spring, and plenty of hills to climb. Just capital of Texas and has three famous estab- to the north of the Hill Country, you’ll find lishments vying for supremacy: Kreutz’s, yourself surrounded by the rolling plains Smitty’s, and Black’s. We flipped a coin of north-central Texas. This is a different and chose Smitty’s, located downtown. The Texas than most of us imagine. It’s lush and brick walls are black with soot, and the green in the spring, peppered with lakes, smell of smoked meat hangs permanently and replete with small towns centered in the air. In Texas barbecue is synony- around a courthouse square. mous with seasoned and expertly smoked We entered Hill Country after months in beef brisket. You buy it by the pound, the desert and were immediately struck by and your choice of sides includes either the green trees and rushing rivers. After a Wonder bread or saltine crackers. Texas long stay in Austin (an amazingly bicycle- barbecue traditionalists will tell you that friendly city), we headed west through the good brisket doesn’t need any sauce and Hill Country on a long and roundabout ride good meat should stand on its own. Despite to Fort Worth. Without realizing it, we had that, many establishments are acceding to timed our trip through the Hill Country the demands of the masses, and sauces are at the peak of the wildflower bloom (in reluctantly offered. mid-April). For a true Hill Country experi- One of our favorite parts of exploring ence, we suggest you do the same. It’s an the Hill Country by bicycle was that it’s a amazing experience to soar down a country popular place for cyclists. You’ll no doubt road and breathe in the sweet fragrance of pass others on bikes enjoying the hills and thousands of bluebonnets, the Texas state scenery, and they’re often happy to share flower. their favorite routes. When we were tour- Our rambles through the Hill Country ing through the area, we even ran into an were punctuated by stops at the numerous Adventure Cycling-led group at Pedernales state parks throughout the region. Texas State Park. Having that many cyclists in an has an incredible network of these gems area also means that car drivers are more with fantastic camping facilities, so we aware and accommodating. highly suggest taking advantage of them. A Heading north you begin to leave Hill few of our favorites, Pedernales Falls, Inks Country and start to enter the prairies Lake, and Enchanted Rock, are accessible and lakes region. The hills gradually by small back roads. One of the highlights become less severe, and the bluebonnets was climbing up to the top of Enchanted are replaced by fields of wild grass. In Rock, one of the largest batholiths in the the small town of Glen Rose, you’ll find a U.S. (Half Dome in Yosemite is another well- small and revitalized courthouse square, known batholith formation). a historical museum, and a small bak- The Hill Country also boasts a num- ery serving delicious homemade pie. Also ber of great towns to explore. West of nearby is Solavaca, a private ranch now Different altogether. Compared to West Austin, you’ll find Fredericksburg and open to mountain biking. After using a Texas, the Hill Country is lush and green. Kerrville, complete with myriad restau- bike to repair holes in his fence, the owner rants, museums, and shops. Just south of invited friends to ride on his property and did we meet friendly people, see beautiful Fredericksburg, and way off the beaten has since begun hosting organized races. scenery, and eat delicious local foods, but path, you’ll find a very small town with a Camping is allowed on a limited basis and the network of farm-to-market roads meant big reputation — Luckenbach. The town requires advance notification. that we could crisscross the state without was made famous by country music artists Nearby Granbury is also centered dealing with much traffic. Texas is so large Waylon Jennings and Willie Nelson in a around a revitalized courthouse square that it’s tempting to race through it, just to song of the same name that harkens back and offers shops, restaurants, galleries, and get across. For the bike tourist who prefers to a simpler life. In Luckenbach we stum- museums that will entice you to take a to meander and explore, Texas offers a mul- bled onto the annual Texas Hat Festival break. If you’re staying the night, take titude of touring options, from challenging and bought a couple of hat pins with the advantage of the shuttle system. You can cycling to epicurean delights. Texas star for our panniers. leave your bike in the room and let the South of Austin, you’ll find Gruene, shuttle take you to the town center and Russ Roca and Laura Crawford are doing what they’ve New Braunfels, and Lockhart. Gruene back. always wanted to do — an open-ended bicycle tour — and they’ve recently incorporated Brompton folding Hall is the oldest dance hall in Texas and In our rambling travels, we spent three bikes and trains into their travels. You can find out is still a thriving anchor of the commu- months exploring Texas and we were con- more about them at pathlesspedaled.com. nity. Stay for a show or simply pop in tinually delighted and impressed. Our for a beer and a slice of history. On a hot experiences challenged our preconceived summer day, make time for a swim in the notions of the Lone Star State. Not only

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 13 TRAVERSINGCUBA MOUNTAINS, COAST & CULTURE

Photography by

1 Matthew Kadey

2 14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 3 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 ore than five decades after a caught-in-a-time-warp setting. Even Fidel Castro spearheaded a today, many more Cubans, young and revolution, Cuba remains aged, use two wheels instead of four. a politically-charged land Spend a couple weeks, or better yet CUBA full of contradictions and a few months, cycling in the Caribbean’s misunderstandings.M Despite continued largest country, and soon there will be strong feelings surrounding politics (and a little more cha cha cha in your pedal American trade and travel restrictions) stroke as you soak in decaying colonial Cuba is rapidly gaining cult status among mansions, passionate domino matches sun and culture seekers as the jewel between cigar-puffing grandpas, and of the Caribbean. Cyclotourists are also jungle-covered peaks under bluebird catching on that this island nation 90 skies. Cool off after a ride in bathtub- miles from Key West, Florida, provides warm seas or refuel on elephantine the perfect mixture of scenery, history, portions of rice, tomatoes, and chicken and kind-hearted denizens. dished out by your casa particulares For the cyclist, roads populated only host. Spend evenings at the ballpark or by the occasional 1950s Cadillac chug- sipping mojitos while you get your salsa ging alongside an ox cart, numerous on and then learn to embrace the pre- and welcoming home-stays, charming dawn cacophony of the roosters. cities blissfully free of tourist-oriented Above all it’s the spontaneity, indomi- kitsch, and a landscape that varies mar- table spirit, and romantic layers of the velously with each bend in the road, all people that make Cuba a worthy addi- makes Cuba an intoxicating option for a tion to any cycling bucket list. Someday two-wheeled adventure. Where else do soon, one only hopes, more U.S. cyclists you have opalescent beaches, cathedrals, will be able to discover what made Ernest and mountains cheek by jowl? All in Hemingway want “to stay here forever.”

1. Cuba’s most impressive coastal ride is located in the isolated Gamma province. 2. Tobacco is a major cash crop in Cuba’s western Pinar del Rio province. 3. A rare dry- season downpour brings with it a special gift near Soroa. 4. The cascading pools at Las Terrazas make for a refreshing post-ride swim.

Photography by Matthew Kadey

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 4 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 15 1 2

1. Riding to the seaside town of Baracoa with former Cuban professional cyclist Frank Correa. 2. Cigars and Cuba are synonymous, especially in Havana. 3. Rider Tabi Ferguson soaks in the neo-classical architecture of Cienfuegos. 4. Locals gather up coconuts for thirsty tourists at Playa Ancón. 5. Some of the world’s best mechanics, including this one in Trinidad, keep thousands of vintage cars chugging along. Some say Cuba is the world’s biggest automotive museum. 6. New Year’s Eve in Cuba means one thing: pig roast time! 7. Street music is omnipresent in Havana. 8. A detour is required on the ride to Soroa in western Cuba. Roads can be hit and miss throughout the country. 9. Spectacular limestone mogotes dot much of ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 5 16 Cuba’s Valle de Viñales. 17 6

8 7

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 9 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 17 FROM COMMUTER TO TOURIST

I was not joking when I told my friend Tony that I “wasn’t really cab drivers and bus drivers, confronted by a dozen motorists and that into long bike rides.” We were nearing Plaster City, California, buzzed by dozens more, gotten pinch flats from four-inch-deep on a bumpy asphalt two-lane road, which was deserted on Super potholes, and crumpled one bike frame when a car backed out of Bowl Sunday. We had 2,985 miles left to ride on the Adventure a blind parking spot in an alley and I crashed into its rear quarter Cycling Association’s Southern Tier Route, from San Diego to St. panel at full speed. Augustine, Florida, in 45 days. The math said I’d be learning to On the open road of the Southern Tier, which began just outside like long bike rides. There are so many other things I like to do in San Diego for us, it didn’t take too long for me to get bored enough Colorado, it’s just hard to talk myself into using a Saturday for a to start talking to cows on the side of the road. 50-mile ride when I’m already on my bike five days a week, I told “Hellooooo,” I would moo at them as I pedaled by, and they Tony. He continued to laugh. watched me suspiciously while munching grass. Sometimes I I love my bicycle and all the places it takes me in my hometown would recite old hip-hop lyrics, or ad lib other song lyrics, out of of Denver, but that’s as far as it went. I had never owned a pair of tune. Sometimes they ran away, not sure what to think of a man cycling shorts or a jersey until a few weeks before our tour started. on a bicycle towing a giant trailer. I reassured them that there was I do my daily commute to work and almost everything else within nothing to fear — I’m a vegetarian. a three-mile radius of my apartment on an old steel Raleigh, wear- The Southern Tier is the shortest of the three Adventure Cycling ing jeans, a backpack, and mountain-bike shoes. The round-trip cross-country routes. Compared to the 4,241-mile TransAmerica ride to my office is about three miles, so why not try 3,000? I sup- Trail and the 4,285-mile Northern Tier, it’s only 3,058 miles, but it’s pose you could call that naiveté. the optimal cross-country tour for those who can’t take two months When I told my family and friends that Tony and I were plan- off during the summer. The route hugs the southern border of the ning to attempt a cross-country ride, half of them eventually said U.S. all the way across, making early spring and fall the best times something like, “You’ll have a lot of thinking time out there.” This, to ride. That way you’ll avoid the skin-baking heat of the desert along with the opportunity to eat 6,000 calories per day, was a Southwest and the oppressive humidity of the Gulf Coast. big draw for me. There are few places to really relax in the saddle There are only three large cities on the entire route: San Diego, for more than a few seconds when riding in a city like Denver. Phoenix, and El Paso. Although we made a point to include San Almost every street in Capitol Hill and downtown holds all kinds Antonio and Austin on our itinerary, for the most part, we were of potential for an accident: car doors swinging open into your lulled into the rhythm of rural America — waitresses who called path, pedestrians crossing the street against the signal, cars simply everybody “hon,” communities where everyone knew everyone not seeing cyclists and turning left into them from the opposite else entering or leaving the corner store, and towns where every lane or “right hooking” them across the bike lane. Then there are local person we talked to wanted to give us directions to the next potholes and ice. town or tell us about a shortcut. The waitress at the restaurant in You learn to keep your brake calipers tight. In four years of Descanso Junction, California, shook her head at us every time daily commuting, I’ve been taken out by a pedestrian, cut off by she came to our table, in disbelief that we were going to con-

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 FROM COMMUTER TO TOURIST by Brendan Leonard

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 19 tinue riding in the downpour. A retired grocery store again. Langtry had two small into your head every time you take a break couple at the Kofa Café near Hope, Arizona, stores selling candy and soda, but almost from that spreadsheet and stare out the interviewed us about our ride from their nothing else. If we didn’t make it to Del Rio window for 30 seconds. table, eventually mentioning that they had the next day, we wouldn’t be eating dinner. For every endless hour in the saddle, motorcycled to the “four corners” of the I slept for two hours and woke up to a when it felt like I had to stand up every 10 Lower 48, riding a ring around the country howling wind and the push of the tent wall minutes to keep my butt from going numb, over four months back in the 1980s. They against my head. It didn’t let up all night, or every demoralizing flat tire we got — said it wasn’t the scenery they remembered and I struggled to work up the ambition just as we were starting to make good time most; it was the people they met. Joe, a to remember which stuff sack my earplugs — there was a convenience-store customer Walmart associate in DeRidder, Louisiana, were in. Then I worked up the ambition to or a café waitress to give us a little lift, just talked to me about bicycles for 15 minutes unzip my sleeping bag and root around for by taking a little interest in our trip. one morning while I tried to convince him them in my BOB trailer bag. I failed. That People seem to be disarmed by two guys to try The Register’s Annual Great Bicycle morning, we packed up, got on our bikes, wearing funny clothes and riding fully- loaded bikes at 12 MPH. As Americans we would never walk up to another motorist We rode the last five miles in complete at a gas station and ask where they were headed, would we? But if someone’s foolish darkness, then we split three large pizzas enough to travel by bicycle, many of us feel it’s probably worth asking them what the at a hotel in Del Rio. heck they’re up to. We chatted up all kinds of folks who asked the usual questions: Ride Across Iowa (RAGBRAI) the next put our heads down, and battled. At five Where are you headed? Where did you summer. He had seen and talked to lots of miles, I stopped and pulled out a small start? How many miles do you ride a day? people on their way through DeRidder on American flag on a stick and had Tony snap If people are disarmed by those on the Southern Tier, and it had piqued his a photo of me holding it in front of my face, bicycles, they are further disarmed by a curiosity. the flag standing out at a 90-degree angle seven-foot-tall Chicago chiropractor on a I found out almost immediately about from the stick, blowing right at me. bicycle. Tony would be asked how tall he some of the demons of touring — things Even on the downhills, I was in my was by a stranger at least five times a day. that a utility cyclist would never think granny gear. Three days before, we had “Well, a seven-footer,” a woman in the about. Numb pinky fingers, for instance, been ripping along at 22 MPH with a tail- country store in the retirement community and the daily self-care regimen one must wind, sailing into Marathon, Texas. After of Brenda, Arizona, said as Tony paid for undertake to avoid saddle sores. My neck we left Langtry, it took us 10 hours to pedal our Gatorade. Sometimes they would wait was so sore from holding up the weight of 55 miles. We rode the last five miles in com- until he was out of earshot and they’d ask my head and helmet for eight hours a day plete darkness, then we split three large me how tall he was. “Seven feet,” I’d say, that I began doing yoga poses every night pizzas at a hotel in Del Rio. I estimated the “and I’m five feet 11 inches,” but no one after we finished riding. headwind at 30 MPH, and that day became cared. A three-mile commute doesn’t exactly the answer to the question, “What was A cowboy outside a gas station in prepare you for something called a head- your worst day on the trip so far?” Uvalde, Texas, said to me, “Man, I can’t wind, either — a 30-MPH headwind on There were days like that, which I knew believe that big guy over there can even my morning commute might make me 90 in my heart were no fun. But I knew that ride a bicycle. Look how tall he is!” seconds late to the office, if that. But we our tour as a whole was fun, even if I It only took us 35 miles of riding to pulled into Langtry, Texas, on our 23rd wouldn’t realize it until afterward. That’s meet our first friendly cyclists on the route day, hoping the easterly afternoon wind the case, I imagine, when you undertake — a shock to a Denverite used to cyclists would let up before our next day’s ride to something you’ve always thought about divided into five cliques who almost never Del Rio, the first place we’d see so much as a doing — one of those things that comes mix or even so much as acknowledge

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 Tall man, tall bike. Tony uses his long legs to crank out the miles along the Southern Tier Bicycle Route.

each other: roadies — recreational racers, San Diego Cycling Team. He used roadie passed and we pulled up the endless hill. recreational riders, and triathletes on new terms that I didn’t know the definition of, Two weeks later at the Pepper Pot in bicycles; hipsters — mid- to late-20s kids such as “Cat 3.” The next morning at the Hatch, New Mexico, a group of seven or who use fixed-gear bikes and fixed-gear continental breakfast, Ross made our day, eight cyclists came in just as we were about conversions as their only mode of transpor- telling us we were his inspiration for the to pay our bill. We had 38 miles left to get tation; messengers — the people who have race that day. to Las Cruces and had spent the last 25 been riding fixed-gear bikes to work long Five hours later, Tony and I were soak- miles battling a crosswind so fierce it had before hipsters adopted them; day labor- ing wet and tired when we saw the orange ripped the flag out of my BOB trailer and ers — who only ride bikes to work because “Special Event Ahead” sign near the bot- deposited it in a farm field somewhere. We they can’t afford a car yet; and people like tom of a hill. Suddenly, a few hundred feet chatted with one woman in the group who me — who just ride their bicycles every- ahead, a peloton of lycra-clad racers flew in was outside when we left. where and don’t really fit in. from a side road. Trucking uphill with my 15 or so miles from Hatch, my trailer But, at our hotel in Alpine, California, 60-pound trailer, I felt like a John Deere tire went flat. This necessitated taking the an honest-to-goodness roadie pulled up in tractor about to pull onto the Autobahn. trailer off the bike and the wheel off the an SUV and started asking me about our The faster riders jetted past us in silence, trailer. I sat down on the shoulder and very young bike tour. Ross was in town for conserving all the oxygen they could inhale applied two patches to two different holes the next day’s Boulevard Road Race, put on to stay ahead of the pack. Later, guys closer in the tube, and I was happily interrupted every year by the University of California, to the back of the pack cheered us as they by repeated offers for help, as the group of

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 21 members of the group. For a few minutes, I rode next to Chris, who was the only man in the group. Chris said he was Adventure Cycling Association Life Member number 10 and had ridden the TransAmerica Trail many years ago. We leapfrogged and chatted with the group all the way into Las Cruces, the end of their 78-mile Saturday ride. One of the ladies in the group said she was about to turn 67 and another group member had recently celebrated her 70th birthday. Now it was out turn to be inspired. I don’t know what causes a bicycle chain to split over the course of several hundred miles. I do know there are better places than seven miles outside of Wiggins, Mississippi, to look down and see half a chain link peeling off as it rolls over your chainring. We were 140 miles from the nearest bike shop listed on the Adventure Cycling map. Runs like a Deere? Brendan’s rig may not have been nimble but it chugged steadily along. When the combined cost of your last three road bikes is $640, you learn to fix had spent an hour on a winter Saturday stranded, I ended up with an exhaustive, and replace a few parts. Spokes, cables, with a mechanic at my local bike shop, but minimal, list: three tubes, tire levers, a housing, brake calipers, derailleurs — all strategizing on what tools and spare parts small pump, an extra tire, two emergency these components have been replaced on I would need for the trip. After making a tire boots, 21 tire patches and three tubes the kitchen floor of my 450-square-foot list, crossing items off, considering weight, of adhesive, one tube for my BOB trailer, a apartment. For our Southern Tier trip, I and what was likely to break and leave us Crank Brothers multi-17 tool that included

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 a chain breaker and spoke wrenches, a mashed everything together in the chain indeed a $100 bike when I bought it, and pedal wrench, a Park Tool 3-Way hex tool, like a five-year-old trying to force I stripped everything but the crank and wrench, a Leatherman Kick multi-tool, in the wrong piece of a jigsaw puzzle. I built it up using parts from other bikes. two extra brake cables, an extra derailleur gritted my teeth and spun the multi-tool. That’s what many of us typically do in cable, a crescent wrench, freewheel pullers, Then, pop! everything came together in central Denver — find an old steel frame two extra drive-side spokes, and two extra my blackened hands. We high-fived and and build it up enough to survive the city. non-drive-side spokes, chain lube, duct were off, racking up 83 more miles for a How cool would it be, I asked a couple of tape, zip ties, and, at the bottom of the stuff total of 105 that day. We then plopped my friends, if I could ride a 25-year-old, sack that held my tools, a tiny Ziploc bag exhaustedly into a booth at the Waffle $100 bike across the country? that held my extra chain links. House in Bayou La Batre, Alabama, and I told as many people as I could Replacing two chain links on the side ate our fill. — from California all the way across of a country road in Mississippi using At A1A Cycle Works in St. Augustine, Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Louisiana, the chain-breaker on a multi-tool is a bit Florida, I unclipped my trailer and had Mississippi, Alabama, and Florida — of a tense situation. A screwup can mean one last look at my bike. It was the last about my $100 bike. I didn’t expect a day or two of lost riding and airline time I’d see it in its touring costume. We anyone to relate to it and I was happy cancellation fees, not to mention 300 had finished the route, dipping our bikes when people were kind enough to act round-trip miles of hitchhiking. I felt a in the Atlantic Ocean a few minutes as if they were actually listening. I just little bit like the action hero everyone before. Jeff and Joy at A1A boxed and wanted people to know they didn’t have trusts to defuse the bomb with only 60 shipped my bike to Denver, and the next to spend thousands of dollars on Lance seconds left until it detonates, trying to time I’d ride it, it would be minus fend- Armstrong’s bike — or be anything like remember: Is it the green or blue wire ers, handlebar bag, touring tires, and Lance Armstrong — to pedal across I’m supposed to cut? three water bottles and cages. America. Hey, you know, I’m just a guy I popped out the busted link and its Seven months earlier, I had crashed who rides his bike to work, and I can do neighbor and frantically worked one my only road bike and buckled the down it. And you could, too. pin and two new links into the rest of tube. I was okay but in desperate need the chain. One pin to go, but either my of a bike, both to ride to work every day Brendan Leonard is a year-round urban cyclist and writer. He lives in Denver and rides his 1985 Raleigh filthy chain or the tool kept slipping out and to ride across America in six months. Team USA everywhere he goes. More of his writing can of my hands. Tony held my derailleur After five days of searching Craigslist, be found at semi-rad.com. in place as I worked, giving the whole I had found the perfect bike — a steel operation a 50-50 chance in my head. I 1985 Raleigh Team USA for $100. It was

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 23 McKenzie Pass Revisited by Willie Weir

2010: I woke up without an alarm. The cool air wafting through the tent tires money could buy. We did have a smelled of fir and cedar. There wasn’t map. We were following Bikecentennial’s much movement in Paradise Campground TransAm Trail, but we couldn’t afford the except for the McKenzie River gurgling whole series of maps, so we bought the a high- loudly nearby. The sun hadn’t risen yet. first one and figured we’d wing it from school biol- And this was paradise — a beautiful there. ogy teacher under August morning in the midst of a bike We packed no rain gear. It was summer, his belt and more than trip with friends. I was raring to go. It was we reasoned, so it wasn’t going to rain (we 26 years of marriage to an were both raised in California). If it amazing woman with whom did rain, we decided, it was going to he raised three incredible be a warm, refreshing, gentle summer children. I had done a stint shower. in professional theater before It was so cold I could see my the travel bug bit me, found the perfect breath, and my numb fingers fumbled traveling and life companion, and man- to cram the sopping-wet tent into its aged to avoid having what most people stuff sack. would call a real job. This was crazy! If it was this cold When Thomas contacted me about tak- here, what would it be like on top of ing our first bike trip together in 29 years, McKenzie Pass? the idea of retracing our journey across Before we had finished packing Oregon immediately came to mind. But up, news traveled through the camp- with so many cycling opportunities, why ground of repeat? Since just how our first time to climb McKenzie Pass. cold it was up journey was What a difference 29 years can make. there — the from west pass was closed to east, why 1981: On July 6, I woke up in the due to snow. not north very same campground to the sound of a “Snow? to south? cold drizzle. Beads of water covered the It’s July!” I We agreed inside of our bargain-basement tent. Rain? stammered to on Portland Condensation? Probably both — our tent Thomas. “How to Klamath was far from waterproof. will we get Falls via My buddy, Thomas, and I were on day over McKenzie Crater Lake. five of our bicycle trip across America. I Pass?” Thomas was crawling toward an associate’s degree at flew from a community college, whereas Thomas was 2010: Sacramento pre-med at University of California Davis. On August 1, Thomas and I pedaled out to Seattle. We talked our other lifelong We thought we were prepared. I can of Paradise Campground as the beams of buddy, Randy, into joining us and booked laugh heartily about it now. We wore cot- sunrise filtered through the trees. There passage for ourselves and our bikes on the ton running shorts and sweat pants while wasn’t a cloud in the sky. Amtrak Cascades line to Portland. riding. We also used the cheapest bike Thomas now had more than 27 years as

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 1981: 1981: We ended our a church. We were sore and tired. We’d Thomas and I first day of our epic journey probably be asleep before dusk. were on such a sunburned and sore. We A car pulled into the lot, followed by limited budget we both had forgotten to buy another, and another. Soon there was a couldn’t afford sunscreen. The campground steady stream of trucks and station wagons. train or bus fare. where we planned to stay When the dust settled, we were completely We heard that was full. Every campground surrounded. Car stereos blared and small a friend’s fam- was full. We had made a children ran amok. ily was going on tactical error in planning We had somehow managed to pick the a camping trip to camp here the week- most popular patch of gravel from which to in Canada. We end of July 4. In a panic, watch the county’s Fourth of July fireworks hitched a ride in we knocked on a door display. The last vehicle pulled away at 1:30 their motor home. and asked the man who AM with the parting call, “Sleep well.” The TransAm Trail answered if we could pitch The next day, we stopped for ice cream began at Astoria, our tent in his yard. sandwiches at every opportunity. but Seaside was as We ended up far as they would sleeping on a 2010: We take us. At least queen-size hide- stopped for ice it was the Pacific a-bed sofa in his cream sandwiches Ocean. garage. at every oppor- We had to dip our back tires in the tunity. Pacific Ocean — everyone told us that — 2010: I love wild camp- but the tide was out. It was the lowest ing. Dispersal camping is what 1981: tide since humans began measuring they call it in national forests. McKenzie Pass them. We dutifully drug our Bikes have the great advantage of loomed ahead. It bikes through sand and needing very little room to park. wasn’t the highest surf. Everything got wet. On our second night, the three pass, or the lon- of us found an idyllic site by the gest, but it was the 2010: We had river. first. The coun- to dip our Small camp stores were often try was so big, plastic forks the only shopping available on and my bike felt into sev- this route. Over the years, I’ve so heavy. Many eral entrees learned from my partner, Kat, to other people had at Portland’s famous food carts — every- make the best of the ingredients successfully made one told us that. It didn’t matter that we you have. I fired up the camp stove, sau- the trip, but what if I just wasn’t made for had pedaled less than a mile from the téed some garlic and onions in the pot, and this? train station. Bring on crepes, followed then poured in a large can of chicken noo- The summit was almost 18 miles away. by two orders of a spicy dle soup. Once it came to a boil, I gently How steep would it get? Would I have to Thai dish, and then cracked and lowered six eggs walk my bike? And now there’s snow. Are noodles. We duti- into the pot and let the roll- we going to have to wait weeks for it to fully stopped ing boil stir them. I topped clear? I thought I would run out of money at Voodoo it off with red pepper before we even crossed Oregon. Doughnut flakes, and we feasted on for dessert. spicy egg-drop chicken- 2010: McKenzie Pass greeted us like Less than 10 noodle soup. an old friend. I knew how steep it would miles later, we We chatted around be — not nearly as steep as hundreds of stopped for the campfire while sip- other mountain passes I’d climbed. And I root beer floats, ping tea and listened to knew which views were waiting for me, just because the calls of barred owls: full of wonderful volcanic bareness and they were there. “Who cooks for you? Who near and distant mountain peaks. We ended cooks for you?” There would be no stress or wor- our first day ries, just a quiet scenic highway and two of pedaling at 1981: We opened a couple old friends chatting and laughing, both a quaint little of cans of soup with a Swiss wondering why it took so long to travel campground just Army knife and drank them. together again. on the edge of We’d cook another night. We the Mount Hood had managed to score 1981: The pass cleared that very day. National Forest. a free campsite in the After buying rain gear at the general store empty gravel lot behind

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 25 The Clubman Era Nuts & Bolts: McKenzie Pass has returned Oregon: As a bicycle traveler, you can’t clockwise, you’ll have less traffic and better go wrong in Oregon. This state boasts light for photographs. five Adventure Cycling routes within its

borders. Astoria Mt Adams 12276 N Seaside

E WASHINGTON

Amtrak: As the airline industry smacks C O Hood River

touring cyclists with higher fees, Amtrak Portland

C I Mt Hood OREGON just gets better. This trip was perfect for F I 11239

A the train. We booked tickets ahead of time E P

S G

E on the Amtrak Cascades from Seattle to N

G A

Portland. The Cascade trains all have bike N R

A McKenzie Pass racks to hang bicycles (six bikes per bag- R Sisters 5335

gage car at present). You can reserve a

Bend Florence Eugene E spot for your bike for $5 one way. Reserve L

D A

early if you are traveling on the weekend as T A S C Portland S the bike slots go fast. O A Klamath Falls C C The Amtrak Coast Starlight train does Adventure Cycling Bicycle Route CRATER LAKE N.P. not have bike racks but does offer bike casey greene boxes. Loading a bike is $5. The box is $20. Used boxes are free. Oakridge: This little town southeast of Crater Lake: Many more cyclists are Eugene sports a world-class English pub discovering this gem because Crater Lake (Brewers Union Local 180) where you can is on the new Adventure Cycling’s Sierra dine on fish and chips and enjoy a hand- Cascades route. Make sure you take the pulled English-style ale. The town also time to pedal the road around the rim. sports a newly opened hostel (oakridgehos Many will suggest that you ride it clock- tel.com) that is very bicycle friendly. The cur- wise. This is information for car and camper rent rate is $35 and includes breakfast. But drivers, who have a hard time pulling over if you bicycle there, the rate is $25. to see the view. If you bicycle counter-

The Pashley “Country” Clubman reflects on the era when one bike would be used for many purposes - touring, club races and riding to work in between. With generous clearances under its centrepull brakes, this Clubman is equipped with modern derailleur gears for ease of use, whilst retaining the classic direct-acting down tube shifters. t-VHHFEBOE#SB[FEConstruction t3FZOPMET5VCJOH t#SPPLT-FBUIFS4BEEMF t"MMPZ$PNQPOFOUT t)BOENBEFJO&OHMBOE

Hand-Built in England since 1926

For more information please visit BritishBicycle.com

26 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 27 in McKenzie Bridge, Thomas and I summited McKenzie Pass and climbed toward Reflecting on 20 years of touring memories the lookout tower. Thanks to the earlier snowstorm, you could see 100 miles in every direction. We coasted down into Sisters, Oregon, where we met a Frenchman named Francois at the local campground. We traveled together for two weeks before our routes divided. A couple of months later, we dipped our front tires in the Atlantic Ocean. And like several thousand others who have crossed the country with the aid and inspiration of the Adventure Cycling Association, we would recall the journey as one of life‘s highlights.

2010: We summited late morning to a hazy view due to a fire near Sisters. We turned around and for the first time got to casey greene experience the downhill of that stretch of highway. Randy waited for us, and we continued pedaling along the McKenzie River beside spectacular waterfalls on the Aufderheide Memorial Drive, one of the most beauti- Call or email to get ful and bike-friendly roads in the state of Oregon. We enjoyed hand-pulled pints at BIKE FRIDAYSINCE 1992 our latest catalog PROMO CODE: 1854 a fantastic English-style pub in the little 800-777-0258 // BikeFriday.com town of Oakridge, which features a great hostel, too. It was there that we said good- bye to Randy, who returned to Seattle from The real art of the bicycle is for each to have its purpose. Eugene via Amtrak. Thomas and I continued pedaling south. We climbed over a mountain pass on a gravel road, and then back on to pavement toward Crater Lake, where we intersected with the Pacific Cascades route. Every cyclist we The perfect marriage between humanity and machinery. met was packing Adventure Cycling maps. We took an entire day to casually ride the 33-mile rim road around Crater Lake. The campground was full at the national park and dozens of would-be campers were turned away. But a group of cyclists reached out and invited us to share their group site, complete with food, laughter, friends, and bicycles. Two days later, I stood at the train station in Klamath Falls and hugged my friend good-bye. His train was headed south, and mine was going north. We talked of traveling more often together, but one ride is already planned. 29 years from now, Thomas and I will climb McKenzie Pass again. I’ll be 79. He’ll be 81. We’ll stop for ice cream sandwiches at every opportunity. American Made. Oregon Made. Handmade.

Willie Weir also spins a great yarn live. To find out www.co-motion.com where you can catch one of his upcoming shows, visit willieweir.com.

26 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 27 Bike Travel 101 by the Adventure Cycling Association staff

Many people like the idea of traveling you plan to travel with. You’re physi- that you plan for at least one rest day out by bicycle but don’t how to get started. cally ready if you can do back-to-back of 10, and carry no more than 45 pounds While experienced riders know the sim- day rides that are as long or longer than of gear — and a lot less if you can. Always plicity of bike travel is one of its great you are planning for your tour, and feel plan time in your day, and days off in joys, to a curious newcomer the ques- like you could ride again on the third day. your trip, for unexpected challenges and tions and choices can be overwhelming. One of the pleasures of bike travel is that good opportunities. Below, we answer some of the common you’ll be riding into progressively better questions that beginning bicycle travelers and better shape as you go. For more tips What kind of bike should I use? often ask, and provide some tips to demys- on physical preparation, see “Getting in Many types of bicycles can be used tify cycling. Shape for Touring” in the online How-To for bike travel. Although some bikes are Department at adventurecycling.org/fea specifically designed for touring, most Who travels by bike? tures/howto.cfm. quality bicycles can be customized for Traveling by bike appeals to a broad touring use, with the exception of road spectrum of people and there are many How far can I ride in a day? racing bikes, as they emphasize weight ways to do it. It can be done individually, This varies depending on your overall savings and quick handling over dura- with friends, or with a commercial tour fitness, your personal goals, the style of bility and comfort. (Folks do it, but we operator. People of all ages, backgrounds, touring you choose — and the terrain. don’t recommend it for reliability reasons.) and regions of the world choose the bicycle Here are some tips to plan by. With a bit Important characteristics of an appropriate as their favorite means of travel. Adults in of bicycle-specific training, an average bike are durability, a comfortable riding their seventies and children in their teens physically fit adult carrying less than 20 position, and low gears for climbing hills. (and younger!) have ridden all the way pounds of additional gear on their bike The ability to mount racks, fenders, and across America. Bicycle travel is attractive can expect to travel at an average pace wide tires (32 mm or greater) is also a plus. for many reasons: it’s an exciting chal- of 65 miles per day on paved roads and Experienced bicycle travelers have their lenge that allows us to explore new land- still have time to stop and smell plenty preferences, but there is no single style scapes and cultures, build physical fitness, of roses. With a load of gear totaling 20 of bicycle that is an overwhelming favor- and experience the joy of breathing fresh to 45 pounds, the average pace to plan ite. Ultimately, your choice is based on air and meeting new people every day. for should be lowered to 55 miles per personal preference and the type of tour- day. If the terrain is particularly flat or ing you want to do (paved roads vs. dirt Am I in good enough shape? mountainous, the average will increase or roads/trails, amount of gear to carry, etc.). The good news is that you don’t need decrease accordingly (for mountain-bike To read more on how to select a proper to be a super-athlete to enjoy cycling. travel, these distances can be cut in half, bike for touring, visit adventurecycling. However, you’ll want to spend some time or more, depending on the ruggedness of org/features/buyersguide.cfm. training on a bike before your trip. The the terrain). best thing to do is to be realistic about Experienced bicycle travelers can ride How do I decide where to ride? what you can do and create achievable further, but for most people, planning Besides the obvious — scenery, his- goals. Then, work your strength up to to exceed these averages has a tendency tory, and any other personal interests riding the same daily distances you plan to increase the physical challenge and you have — look for low-traffic routes to cover while carrying the same gear decrease the enjoyment. We recommend and/or roads with good shoulders. Keep

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 in mind that many of the places you’d especially during emergencies. The to pay for camping fees and groceries like to see by bicycle, such as national chances of something bad happening to and still stash a bit away for unforeseen parks, can be choked with traffic and you during a bicycle tour are likely to be expenses like repairs or gear replacement. undesirable for cycling. Mountain bikers no different than they are in your every- Going commando-style, it’s possible to usually look for routes with little or no day life at home. travel on $10 a day or less. For those with motorized traffic and as little pavement as luxury in mind, well, the sky (and your possible. The biggest question they need How much does bike touring cost? bank account) is the limit. The beauty of to answer is usually: Can all of the route The cheapest way to go is to camp and traveling by bike is that it can be as com- be ridden with a loaded bike or trailer? cook your own meals. Assuming you fortable or as adventurous as you want it Many resources for finding bicycle-spe- have all the necessary gear before you to be. cific routes that emphasize safe roads and leave, and you are touring in America, rideable trails can be found in the online a budget of $35 a day should be enough Cyclists’ Yellow Pages. These include: • The 41,399-mile Adventure Cycling Route Network and touring maps. Suggested Equipment List • State resources, including tourism agencies, state bicycle/pedestrian offices, Modify the following list depending on • Electrical tape advocacy groups, and local bike clubs. your personal needs and past experiences. • Spoke wrench • Local and regional cycling maps and WOLFGANG EHN, C o u rtesy OF O rtl i e b Sp ortart kel GM B H Keep in mind that you generally won’t • Spare spokes sized for your bike’s guidebooks listed under their respec- need any more gear for a 90-day tour wheels tive states and countries. Visit adventure than for a 7-day tour. • Allen wrenches cycling.org/cyp. On-the-bike Clothing • Screwdriver • Cycling helmet • Chain tool (or substitute a good multi- How do I carry my stuff? • Touring shoes — good for walking as tool for this, allen wrenches, and screw- The most common methods of carrying well as riding, i.e. some flex in the sole drivers) gear are panniers and trailers. Panniers • Cycling gloves • Extra nuts, bolts, and wire (particularly are luggage that attach to your bicycle on • Cycling shorts for racks) racks that sit over or next to the wheels. • Socks — wool or synthetic (1 to 3 pair) • Assorted zip ties Ortlieb and Arkel are two top-quality • Leg warmers or tights for riding (rain • Small chain lube brands. Quality racks are available to fit pants can substitute) • Hoseclamp nearly every bicycle. Trailers come in • Short-sleeved shirts (1 or 2) • Spare clipless-pedal-cleat bolts many varieties, usually with one or two • Light, long-sleeved shirt for layering and • Duct tape (invaluable — you can wrap wheels. Most are easy to attach and fit sun protection some around a trimmed straw to save • Rain gear, jacket and pants (or poncho) weight) on almost any bicycle. The BOB Yak/Ibex Off-the-Bike Clothing Camping and Burley Nomad are both excellent • Comfortable shorts • Sleeping bag (down bags are warmer, choices. • Comfortable pants (zip-off legs or rain weigh less, and pack smaller, but useless Panniers excel on paved-road riding pants could substitute) if wet. Synthetic bags are heavier and and single-wheel trailers are at their best • Underwear (1 to 2 pair) bulkier, but less expensive for comparable on rough, unpaved terrain, but both can • Sandals, flip-flops, or lightweight shoes warmth and will keep you warm when work well for nearly all types of tour- • Wool or fleece hat wet.) ing. Personal preference is the ultimate • Wool or fleece gloves • Sleeping pad (closed-cell foam pads arbiter. • Lightweight down jacket (or wool/fleece work well and are light, but self-inflating sweater) pads are more comfortable and packable.) Where do I stay at night? Miscellaneous • Tent (lightweight, with rainfly and ves- First decide if you want to camp (inex- • Toiletries tibules.) pensive, independent, closer to nature) • Pocket knife or Leatherman (pliers and • Ground cloth (this will extend the life of or stay in hotels (comfortable, less gear other tools are handy) your tent) to carry). Tourism agencies, chambers of • Water carrying bladders or containers — • Personal eating utensils (fork, spoon, commerce, convention and visitors’ asso- at least 1 U.S. gallon capacity cup, bowl) • Basic first-aid kit with emergency num- • Stove (a small backpacking stove with ciations, and many internet resources list bers fuel) information about motels, campgrounds, • Sunglasses • Cooking equipment (small pots and/ B&Bs, and other lodging. Many maps and • Flashlight/headlamp or candle or pans — backpacking equipment works guides, including the Adventure Cycling • Sunblock best and is lightweight.) Route Network maps, list local options. Tools and Spare Parts For more Information • Tire levers/patch kit Visit adventurecycling.org/features/ Is it safe to travel alone? • Spare tube (and tire, depending on the packing.cfm Yes. Bicycle riders are typically per- trip) ceived to be very non-threatening and • Mini-pump are often treated warmly by strangers,

28 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 29 Mechanical Advantage SEE AND BE SEEN A look at bicycle lighting by Jan Heine

Modern LED lights have revolutionized bicycle lighting, providing more light output for less energy. Battery-powered lights are fine for occasional use and can double as flashlights. For frequent, longer night-time riding, hub generators offer the best solution. Light beams should be asymmetric to avoid blinding oncoming traffic and to optimize the light output.

Riding at Night side, small battery-powered lights It can happen to anybody. You can double as flashlights. For occa- underestimated the time it would sional night riding, battery-powered take to cross two mountain passes. lights are an inexpensive solution. You watch the sun setting behind the Generator-powered lights have jagged peaks that tower above the the advantage of unlimited run time. valley. The sky turns bright orange You provide the power not just to with shades of purple. As you enjoy propel the bike but also to illuminate the beautiful spectacle, you suddenly the road. Most modern systems use realize that you still face an hour’s generator hubs that have close to zero ride until you reach your camp- resistance when switched off, and ground or hotel. Darkness is falling very little resistance when switched rapidly. Fortunately, your bike is on. Modern generator-powered head- equipped with lights so you simply and taillights include standlights (the flip a switch and continue your ride, light continues to shine for several now more visible to other traffic than minutes after you stop), and greatly j an h eine you were during the day. After the increase safety for urban riding. glare of the sun, riding at night provides night can stretch the distance you cycle The higher initial cost of generator a welcome respite for your eyes. You hear before needing to replenish your water. systems is offset by the fact that you will different sounds as the nocturnal crit- If you face a road that sees a lot of traffic never have to buy batteries or replace ters awake, and before you realize it, you during the day, riding at night can make your rechargeable ones once they no lon- have reached your destination for the for a more tranquil and safe experience. ger hold a charge. For extended night- day. Furthermore, riding under the stars or a time riding, I find generator-powered Just as we would not consider buying full moon is an unforgettable experience. lights the best option. a car without lights, even if we intend to Batteries or Generator? Flashing or Steady? travel mostly during the day, it is useful Your lighting choices will go a long Flashing lights can be useful during to equip our bikes with lights. Even dur- way toward making cycling at night safe low-light daytime conditions because ing daytime, you may encounter tunnels and enjoyable. Your most basic choice is they draw attention to the cyclist. At or fog that require illumination. between battery-powered or generator- night, flashing lights tend to blind Lighting technology has made huge powered lights. Basic battery lights are oncoming traffic, and they make it hard progress in recent years — to the point inexpensive initially, but you will have for the cyclist to see potholes and other where riding at night has become as to budget for batteries. More expensive obstacles in the road. The human eye easy and enjoyable as riding in daylight. lights often come with rechargeable bat- adapts to low light conditions by open- Although most of us tour during the day teries. The need to hook up to an outlet ing the pupil and letting in more light. to enjoy the scenery and to meet people, can pose a problem if you are camping. This means that flashing lights are per- an occasional night-time stage can be use- All battery-powered lights have a limited ceived as extremely bright and painful. ful. When faced with crossing a desert run time so you need to keep track of Furthermore, flashing lights make it dif- with few services, riding during the cooler how much charge remains. On the plus ficult to judge the distance and speed of

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 a cyclist. Therefore, at night, your lights need it: onto the road. Most of these should be set to emit a steady beam. You lights come from Germany, because Product Update: want to see and be seen, but you don’t German traffic laws require a cut-off want to blind oncoming traffic. beam to prevent blinding oncoming traf- The Cygolite How Bright? fic. However, in Germany, it is illegal to Expilion 400 Almost all modern headlights use ride a bicycle (except lightweight racers) I reviewed the Expilion 250 in the LEDs instead of halogen bulbs. LEDs are without dynamo-powered lights. Until April 2011 issue of Adventure much more efficient so you get a greater recently only generator-powered lights Cyclist and just wanted to add an light output. For generator-powered carry the German certification that iden- update: This version of the lights, this means lower resistance and tifies the cut-off beam. Expilion has been upgraded from more light. For battery-powered lights, Even with beams that are cut off at 250 lumens to 400 but the price you get a longer run time from the same the top, the headlight must be oriented will remain the same: $139 (and batteries. carefully to avoid blinding oncoming I’ve seen it as low as $115). The As a result, most modern lights are traffic. To check your headlight orienta- Expilion 400 is very similar to the bright enough. Generally, you need tion, ride your bike on a busy trail at 250 lumen version but with these different features: The light pattern brighter lights for urban riding where night. If you can see the faces of oncom- is a bit wider and more inclusive light pollution means that your eyes ing cyclists, your light is oriented too of surroundings; the light color is don’t adjust completely to the darkness. high. slightly more yellow when com- To be seen in the city, you have to com- With the best lights, you can ride at pared to the super white light of pete with many other light sources. Out night as well as during the day. During the 250; there is one more light in the country, your eyes adjust to the our Flèche 24-hour ride, we descended setting, boost, which is the op- darkness. An overly bright headlight has on winding roads at speeds of up to 40 tion that provides the max of 400 you riding in a cone of light, unable to MPH in the middle of a moonless night, lumens; and the run times are now see around corners or to notice critters our lights illuminating the road far ahead 2/3/6/13.5/24. That’s 2 hours on by the side of the road that may run in with their wide beams. boost, 3 hours on high, 6 hours on front of your wheels and cause you to Taillights medium, 13.5 on low, and 24 hours of flashing. fall. Out in the country, your lights will Taillights should be bright and red. Otherwise, the upgraded ver- be the only light source, so you are very Flashing red taillights have become sion is almost identical to the 250. noticeable to other road users. accepted in urban environments. It can be charged by USB micro via Beam Pattern Motorists perceive them as indicating computer or electrical outlet, can A headlight’s output in watts or even “slow-moving cyclist ahead.” On open be mounted on your handlebars, j an h eine lumens tells you little about how useful roads, a steady taillight may be advanta- stem, or helmet (mount included), it is for night-time riding. Much more geous as it allows approaching traffic and is watertight. It is also slightly important is the beam pattern. For a to gauge the speed and distance of the smaller than other bike lights in pleasant night-time riding experience, cyclist. There is some indication that its class and is very light at 130 the headlight beam needs to be wide flashing lights may attract the eyes of grams. Additionally, you can buy enough to illuminate the entire road and drunk drivers, making them more likely an extra quick-release battery, keep it charged, and double your beyond, so you can ride around curves to hit objects with flashing lights than run times. without riding into the dark. The transi- those with steady illumination. For more about the Cree LED tion from light to dark should be gradu- Reflective materials technology used in the Expilion, al. The beam should be long enough to In addition to your lights, it is useful you can check it out here: cree. illuminate high-speed descents at night. to add reflective material to your bike com/products/ledlamps_hb.asp. Many inexpensive lights have round or clothing. Pedal reflectors or reflective Also, Jan Heine mentions that reflectors like those of flashlights. This ankle bands are very visible and clearly some German lights have asym- projects half of your light output above indicate to approaching traffic that you metric reflectors because the Ger- the horizon into the sky. Not only is this are a cyclist. man Road Traffic Licensing Regu- wasted light, but it can be dangerous With the right lights, cycling at night lations require a cut-off beam. A because it blinds and dazzles oncoming can be pleasant and safe. Good lights good example of this is the Sigma Lightster, which will be reviewed in traffic. Imagine a car coming toward you allow you to see and be seen by other more depth in an upcoming issue. with its high beams on. traffic. For more about the Lightster, see The best lights have asymmetric sigmasport.com/us/produkte/ reflectors similar to those used in car Jan Heine is editor of Bicycle Quarterly (bikequar beleuchtung. terly.com), a magazine about the culture, technology, headlights. Their beam is cut off at the -Mike Deme and history of cyclotouring. top so all the light is going where you

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 31 The Cyclists’ Kitchen Protein: Power for Pedaling? It’s all the rage in the world of supplements by Nancy Clark

How much protein do I need? When should I eat it? What’s the best brand of protein shake? How many protein bars are okay to eat in a day? These are just a few of the questions cyclists ask me about the role of protein in their sports diet as they chug protein shakes for breakfast, choose protein bars for mid-morning and late afternoon snacks, and refuel with protein supplements for recovery. The sports food industry leads us to believe

these commercially prepared, purified, your muscles. Remember, protein can fruits that rounded out the day’s intake. protein-rich products are indispensable repair muscles but does not easily fuel Once you know how much protein for superior performance. Not the case; muscles. Carbohydrates fuel muscles. you consume via standard foods, you can real food has worked well for years! Next, you need to determine how then determine how many protein bars While there is a time and place for much protein your body requires and you need. (Likely none!) That is, if your protein supplements, many cyclists mis- then assess how much protein you eat diet offers 125 grams of protein and you use them. For example, I see far too many via your standard food choices. Most need only 90 grams, there’s no need to cyclists downing post-ride protein shakes cyclists eat more than enough protein buy a protein bar other than for calories and protein bars when they should be without supplements. To estimate your to curb hunger. enjoying carbohydrate-rich fruit smooth- daily needs, multiply your weight by 0.5- Q. I’m a vegetarian and try to eat some ies and energy bars. The people who 0.75 grams protein/pound (1.0-1.5 g/kg). plant protein at each meal. I still wonder if might benefit from a protein supplement Example: I will be able to get enough protein to sup- are vegetarians who eat hit-or-miss meals, • If you weigh about 120 pounds, the port my TransAmerica bike tour. college students who dislike the cafeteria suggested intake is approximately 60 to A. Many vegetarians who think they options, and dieters who try to live on 90 grams of protein per day. eat well are surprised to learn how little lettuce leaves. But most hungry cyclists • If you weigh about 160 pounds, the protein plant foods offer. For example, if get plenty of protein through their daily suggested intake is approximately 80 to you weigh 120 pounds and need at least food intake. 120 grams of protein per day. 60 grams protein per day, you will fall The purpose of this article is to (Note: If you are restricting calories to short on protein if you consume only: answer some questions about the role lose weight, you want to target the higher Breakfast: 2 tablespoons of peanut of protein in your sports diet and leave end of the protein range.) butter (9 g protein) on a bagel (14 g total) you with this message: While adequate To track how much protein you eat, Lunch: a BOCA burger (13 g) protein is important to build and repair use the information on food labels and/or Dinner: a quarter-cake of tofu (9 g) muscles, protein should take its place analyze your diet at websites such as That totals only 36 of the recom- as the accompaniment to carbohydrates fitday.com or sparkpeople.com. Here’s mended 60 grams protein. Yes, you (grains, fruits, and vegetables). That’s how to easily consume 100 grams of pro- consume more protein from the because your muscles need at least four tein: grain foods and veggies that times more calories from carbohydrates Pre-ride Breakfast: 2 eggs (12 g), round out your meals, but (for fuel) than they need from protein. Greek-style yogurt, 6 ounces (14 g) you would be wise to Confused? Keep reading! AM Snack: Bagel with peanut butter (14 g) eat double portions of Q. When I’m on daylong rides, I eat a Lunch: Tuna sandwich (30 g) protein-rich plant foods. lot of protein bars. How many protein bars Afternoon snack: Trail mix (10 g) When cycling long dis- per day are too many? Dinner: 6-oz. chicken breast (45 g) tances, double portions A. To start, when you are biking all Total: 125 grams protein — and this can be easy to con- day, you need carbohydrate-based gra- does not even include the additional sume. Adding yogurt nola bars and energy bars that will fuel protein from the grains, vegetables, and and milk to the diet

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 can also easily boost protein intake. sports drink with protein (such as because they are convenient, buy them. Q. I’ve been eating egg whites for break- Accelerade or Amino Vital) during a long But if you prefer the wholesome good- fast. I’ve heard they are an excellent source ride, don’t bother. Endurance is largely ness of chocolate milk and other natural of high-quality protein. Is this correct? affected by how many total calories you protein-carbohydrate combinations, save A. Yes, egg whites offer high-quality, consume while you exercise (not the your money and enjoy real food instead. muscle-building protein, but take note: amount of protein). Snack regularly on Real foods tend to be tastier, too! egg whites are mostly water, and are not granola bars, dried fruit, fig bars, trail Q. In addition to cycling, I lift weights “packed with protein.” An omelet made mix, gels, or gummy candy — and drink twice a week. I’ve done this for several with three egg whites has only about 10 plenty of water. Or, choose the sports years. Do I have higher protein needs than grams of protein. You could more easily beverage that tastes best to you. Good the person who does not lift weights? swig 10 ounces skim milk and skip the tasting fluids are important, because you A. In the early stages of training, your cooking and dishwashing. will drink more of something you like. protein needs are slightly higher because A whole egg has about 6 grams pro- Many cyclists do not like the aftertaste you are building muscle mass. Once you tein, and the yolk is rich in important associated with a protein-containing have built muscle, your protein needs vitamins and minerals. Yes, the yolk is sports drink. should return to the standard require- also rich in cholesterol, but the debate Soon after you’ve finished riding, ments. Believe it or not, research suggests continues whether or not the cholesterol enjoy a wholesome carbohydrate-plus- weight lifting enhances the way your you eat affects your blood cholesterol and protein snack or meal (such as yogurt body uses the protein you eat. This actu- heart-health. and a banana, chocolate milk, or a pea- ally results in greater efficiency and a In addition to (or instead of) egg nut butter and jelly sandwich). This will reduced protein requirement. (Campbell, whites for breakfast, plan to fuel your provide your muscles with the tools they 2007) muscles with carbohydrate-rich oatmeal need to recover optimally. If you’re like most hungry athletes for breakfast. Either eat the oats raw Q. I’ve heard I should eat a three (or who lift weights, you habitually consume (with milk, as you would eat a dry cereal) four) to one ratio of carbohydrates to pro- more than enough protein on a daily or cook them with skim milk (instead tein right after I exercise, but I don’t know basis. Hence, whether or not your body of water) to get a good ratio of carbo- what that looks like in terms of food. So I requires extra protein becomes a moot hydrates to protein. Add raisins, honey, buy commercial recovery foods and drinks point because you are likely already eat- almonds, walnuts — and even powdered to be sure I get the right ratio. Are there ing “extra.” milk if you think your diet needs a pro- other options? The bottom line tein boost — and you’ve got the makings A. Commercial recovery drinks are To repeat what I wrote in the begin- for a super sports breakfast either at a more about convenience than necessity. ning: While adequate protein is impor- campsite or at home. You can enjoyably refuel with chocolate tant in your sports diet to build and Q. Should I use milk, yogurt, a sandwich, or pasta with repair muscles, protein should take its a sports drink with meat sauce. The ratio need not be exact place as the accompaniment to carbo- protein during long — you just don’t want to consume a hydrates. Enjoy meals and snacks that rides that last heavy amount of protein that displaces include a foundation of grains, fruits and longer than two carbohydrates and also sits in the stom- vegetables, with a side of protein-rich hours? ach and slows digestion. dairy, meats, fish, eggs, beans, and nuts. A. If your Whether or not a protein-carbohy- You’ll enjoy the benefits of high energy, goal is to drate recovery beverage is superior to strong muscles, and good health. Eat well, enhance your a carbohydrate-only beverage remains ride well! performance questionable. In a recent study (Green, by drinking a 2008) in which athletes drank either a Nancy Clark, MS, RD, CSSD (Board Certified Specialist carbohydrate or a carbohydrate-protein in Sports Dietetics) is a former TransAmerica tour leader. She offers private consultations to casual and com- recovery drink immediately after mus- petitive athletes in her practice at Healthworks, the cle-damaging downhill running, both premier fitness center in Chestnut Hill, Massachusetts beverages offered a similar recovery pro- (617-383-6100). Her Sports Nutrition Guidebook cess over the course of three days. The and Cyclist’s Food Guide are available via nancy authors concluded the meals that they clarkrd.com. ate (in addition to the recovery drink) in References those post-exercise days supplied the • Campbell W, Leidy H (2007). Dietary protein protein and carbohydrates needed to and resistance training effects on muscle and body recover. composition in older persons. J Am Coll Nutr 26, Yet, you won’t go wrong by 696S-703S. refueling soon after exercise with a • Green MS, Corona BT, Doyle JA, Ingalls CP. Carbohydrate-protein drinks do not enhance carbohydrate-protein combination. recovery from exercise-induced muscle injury. Int J If engineered foods are preferable Sport Nutr Exerc Metab. 2008;18(1):1-18.

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 33 GEARED UP

Geared Up Bike stuff you can use by Mike Deme

Stone Cold Outdoor Bicycle Cooler withstand the rigors Bag ($29.95, stonecoldoutdoor.com, of a severely bumpy 913-236-0449) mountain-bike ride but Going out for a pleasant summer you may find it useful for ride to your favorite picnic spot and less strenuous outings. you want to make sure your beverage of choice is nice and frosty when you Planet Bike Grasshopper get there? Or maybe you want to pack Bamboo Fenders ($135, a lunch and ride to work? For whatever planetbike.com, 866-256-8510) reason you might need to carry a cooler Bamboo has become a favorite on your bike, the Stone Cold Bicycle material for the environmentally Cooler Bag may be for you. conscious — it’s renewable, it Basically, it’s a nylon cooler/pan- grows like weeds, it’s strong, nier lined with 10mm-thick insulating and it’s pretty cool looking. foam that keeps drinks cold for hours, Bamboo bikes have been and you can add two square cooler bag around for a while and, bottles ($9.99 each) that fit perfectly into lately, I’ve seen bamboo the bag. bike trailers, handle- It attaches to your rack with two bar grips, and saddles. Planet Bike decided to take it a step further and create the Grasshopper fenders. Made from Moso bamboo and treated with a marine-grade finish, the 3-ply fenders repel the water, mud, and assorted road grime. Installing the Grasshoppers is a snap. The stainless-steel V-stays are pre- installed and the only issue you need to face is whether or not your bike has clearance for them. According to Planet Bike, the Grasshoppers are designed to fit over tires of 27” x 1 1/4” or 700C x Arkel 35mm, however, your frame, fork, and OverDesigns brake configuration may also need to be Randonneur Rack ($89.95, arkel-od. frame hooks and can be secured to the taken into consideration. If you’re think- com, 888-592-7535) bottom of the rack using the supplied ing about buying a set of Grasshoppers If you’re looking for a versatile rear velcro strap and D-rings located at the but have questions about whether they’ll rack for a trunk bag, look no further bottom of the bag. While this solution fit your bike, drop by your local bike than the Randonneur from Arkel. Unlike works well on mildly rough surfaces, shop and see what the pros think. other racks that attach to your seatpost, the Stone Cold Cooler is not designed to the Randonneur employs a three-point

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG GEARED UP

attachment Simple Pleasures states that there are system. limitations to what the Quick-True can A quick- handle so if you completely taco your release wheel you’re probably still bracket slips going to need that lift through your saddle to the shop, but rails and is secured to them creat- within 5 to 6 mil- ing the first two points of attachment. limeters of warp- The third point is your seatpost, to ing, it should do the which a rubberized clamp attaches and your chainstay, seat stay, or fork via trick. is secured with a velcro strap. Once rubber mounting straps. Once it’s been the rack is in place and all necessary secured, you use the adjuster head and 4-millimeter hex nuts are tightened, indicator screw to find the section of the Randonneur is solidly attached your wheel that and ready to carry your load (Arkel’s is out of true. Tailrider makes the perfect companion). When you’ve Additionally, it can be removed and reat- found it, you tached very quickly so you can switch it can use the between or among your different bikes. included spoke The Randonneur is designed to fit wrench to begin bikes with both short and long seaposts. the process of It is initially configured for the long straightening seatpost set up but with a few adjust- your rim using ments, mainly the removal of the exten- basic wheel-tru- sion brackets and repositioning of the ing techniques. quick-release mechanism, you can arrive Pretty nifty. at the short seatpost set up in no time. Whether in the long or short set up, you’ll need 4 inches from the saddle rails to your seatpost clamp. There is one catch, however. Since the saddle rails are used as attachment points, the quick-release mechanism will only securely attach to rails that are 2.5 cm apart. Because there are so many saddles with different rail con- figurations, the Randonneur may not fit them all. Arkel is aware of this and is working on adapters that will help alleviate this issue.

Simple Pleasures Quick-True Tool ($41.95, spbicycles.com, 541- 408-2960) There are a lot of mechanical issues that crop up on a bike ride or tour that can be repaired onsite, but one that often causes the need for a lift to the bike shop is a warped rim. Well, if you don’t mind carrying eight ounces in your pack, you can now handle that repair as well thanks to the Quick-True Tool from Simple Pleasures. Consisting of the tool base, slider rod, adjuster head, and indicator screw, the Quick-True can attach to

ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 35 Cyclesense The 10-Speeds on West Street It was 1965, the year of Martin Luther King’s Montgomery march, Bob Dylan going electric at Newport, the New York World’s Fair … and my first “touring” bike. Here’s what it was like. by John Schubert In the summer of 1965, a funny thing happened on a short stretch of West Street. Five kids abruptly acquired 10-speed bikes. All five were boys. All five were either 13 or 14 years old. Four got a French brand, Astra. One got a Schwinn Varsity. And at least three of the five — I was one of them — dreamed of riding the 150 miles from our town of Pittsfield, Massachusetts, to Boston. None of us knew if people did that sort of thing, but we

couldn’t see why not. figured were the world’s most Sophisticated bicycles were casual manufacturing toler- few and far between in the ances. He then noted that we U.S. then — even though the had paid extra to not get a state of the art was reasonably kickstand. good. (If you knew how, you At that point, dad lost all could order a superb triple- interest in 10-speed bikes. I chainwheel touring bike from was on my own to figure the a European builder. It would thing out. have “only” five cogs in back, Back then, how would but it could climb any moun- a kid in a small town learn tain, carry your gear in water- what frame sizes were — or proof waxed-cotton panniers, anything else about the craft and treat you to the delightful of riding well? I’d already p h otos b y j o n sc u ert handling qualities of Reynolds John’s Astra is long gone, but he rescued a similar frame from the exhausted the pathetic bicy- 531 double-butted steel tub- trash heap at a bicycle flea market a few years back. The frame in cling books in the public ing.) My best guess is that a the pictures suffered damage from a front-end collision. library. If you could find few dozen bike shops nation- American Cycling magazine, wide sold high-quality bikes sizes. This is still news to many custom- it might tell you — but it and supported the clubs and teams that ers today; so you can imagine how novel only sold a few thousand copies nation- kept the knowledge alive. the concept was in the year that The wide. The then-tiny League of American But on West Street, we didn’t get state Sound of Music debuted on Broadway. Wheelmen was just getting reorganized of the art. We got entry-level French We discovered frame-size differences after two decades of dormancy. 10-speeds in your choice of trim levels — when we lined up my bike next to the All we had were the bikes and the $65, $75 or $85 — or the $66.95 Schwinn bike belonging to my neighbor Douglas. thrill of self-discovery. Varsity. These bikes were insufferably My bike had a 54-centimeter frame No, the French bikes didn’t come crude by today’s standards, and that $65 and Doug’s had a 58-centimeter frame. with owners’ manuals. The only written equates to $439 in today’s dollars. So the head tubes on the two bikes were instruction with the bikes said that the The French bikes were light weight, four centimeters different in length. cables never needed greasing because compared to what we were used to, but (Doug was taller than I, and I suppose they were factory lubed with bisulfide their drivetrains stunk. The Schwinn the bike-shop owner eyeballed us and or molybdenum. was heavier, but its drivetrain worked gave us each the correct size. But he Old dudes remember the Huret Allvit better. never explained frame sizing to us.) rear derailleur. It barely worked. The I got a French bike, and it was a bit of My dad, the ever-observant engineer, Huret front derailleur on the French culture shock in our house. For starters, looked at the difference in head tube bikes, however, didn’t work at all, and the French bikes came in different frame lengths and rolled his eyes at what he spilled the chain with almost every

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 attempted shift. It was a design that then, or the 25 or 30 centimeters you see wrapped around that boss had a second Schwinn had rejected (and gotten Huret as standard today). So after a year or two, I boss for the front derailleur. I believe to make a different, far better, design). grew and the bike didn’t fit. they designed the frames that way so On the Astras, the chain cage was The $65 bike had steel rims, CLB side- they could build them up with either attached to the parallelogram mecha- pull brakes, and axle nuts front and rear. five or 10 speeds. nism by a joint that allowed freedom in The $75 bike added centerpull brakes and The French bikes were branded Astra, all directions, and the chain cage could large-flange hubs. The $85 bike added but made by Motobecane. At the same wander in any direction unless it was quick-release wheels. The 10 gears ranged time, Motobecane also sold bikes in the very securely tightened down. The rel- U.S. under the Orly brand name. evant nut could only be reached by a Why the change in brand names? In nine-milimeter socket wrench. I knew of 1985, a Motobecane executive explained: no metric wrenches or even any socket “A young man riding one of our bikes wrenches anywhere on West Street. at night without lights was struck by So I accepted the fact that I would a lorry. He sued us. We decided not to usually spill the chain when I attempted respond to the lawsuit. But we wanted to to make a front shift. sell bikes in the U.S.” It didn’t matter much, because I spent My Astra led a hard life. I rode it most of my time being a he-man in the with teenage enthusiasm and machismo, highest gear. Wasn’t that how you got maintained it enthusiastically but clue- stronger and rode faster? lessly, banged up the wheels, bent the The first time I rode a borrowed steerer tube, and strapped on all sorts of Schwinn Varsity, I turned my nose up ill-fitting accessories. Either it had a very at its heavier weight, but cringed with In 1965, very few frames had derailleur low bottom bracket or I was clueless jealousy at its better-performing front hangers on the rear dropouts. The derail- about pedaling around sharp corners, derailleur. leur had its own clamp. because I would routinely wreck pedals The one-piece Ashtabula-style crank- by scraping them on the pavement. From sets of the Schwinns were another annoy- from 39 inches to 108 inches. those first five-mile around-town rides, it ing superiority. They looked less elegant As was universal among European grew to a series of 50-mile day rides and, than the three-piece cottered cranks on bikes at that time, the frames were in 1971 a three-day tour of the California the Astras, but crank cotters nearly always lugged and brazed from standard-diam- coast. failed. If you owned such a bike, you eter steel tubing. It was undoubtedly an My Astra is long gone. One day in p h otos b y j o n sc u ert probably remember the cranks getting inexpensive carbon-steel alloy with a 1973, I walked to where I had locked it loose on the spindle, and crude big-ham- huge wall thickness. An Astra frame that on campus, intending to ride it to my mer home repairs to install new cotters. I acquired years later weighs a hefty 5.84 dorm. All that was left was a piece of my On the plus side, the Astras of 1965 had pounds, about 1 1/2 pounds heavier than chain. genuine leather saddles. The seat post was most of the touring bikes you would buy Damn, I still miss it. freakishly short (I’ll guess about 12 centi- today. meters, compared with the 18 centimeters My frame had a brazed-on boss for John Schubert invites you to his website at limeport. that was standard on better bikes back one derailleur. The Huret clamp that org. Contact him at [email protected].

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 37 Companions Wanted

Providing partners for tours, domsestic and abroad, since 1978 Oxford to Kenya 23-year-old guy looking for I’m flexible. Looking to ride 60 to 70 miles a ing, historic sites, quaint towns, pie, etc. It’s some good company for an ambitious tour day with rest days at intervals we agree on. all about the journey! “No bosses, no drama, in late 2012. I’ve split the tour into three Come ride across a beautiful country with me. no judgment.” Fair skies, tailwinds, and a legs, and plan on spending approximately This will not be a race but a tour. If interested great time by all. Looking for one more like- three months on each leg: First leg: Oxford email [email protected]. minded gal or young rider to balance out our to Albania (France, Italy, Greece, Albania - group. If interested email tphelps@bikewith Dalmatian Coast); second leg: Turkey to Egypt Cross Country Along the Northern U.S. amission.org. (Turkey, Syria, Jordan, Israel; third leg: Egypt Hello fellow cyclists! I’m thinking east- to Kenya (Egypt, Ethiopia, Kenya). I have bound from Washington to Maine along the Northern Tier (Bike for Bread) In June 2012, Kenyan contacts that run a small school in Adventure Cycling Northern Tier and North I’m planning to ride west to East to raise Jimba Gede that I hope to reach. If interested Lakes routes in June 2012. I’m all about the money for a local soup kitchen. I would like email [email protected]. journey, less about the destination, and the to ride the Northern Tier Route but would be pure enjoyment of cycling, and plan on hav- willing to start as far south as San Francisco. Delivering Smiles I’m a cancer survivor and ing at least one or two off-days a week to I’m looking for someone to join me for the I’m preparing to take a trip around the world explore small towns along the way. 50 miles whole trip and planning to average 65 to 80 by bike, starting here in the U.S., represent- a day sounds good. I also like stopping to miles a day unsupported. I anticipate stopping ing the 28 million people currently living take naps in wide-open plains. Camping and at national parks and enjoying nature. I’m 21 with cancer. I will be visiting cancer centers warmshowers.org are my shelter plans. I’m and completed a cross-country trip in 2007. around the world, delivering smiles and inspi- 27 and my name is Zoe. If interested email I look forward to repeating the same great ration to survivors everywhere. I’m doing this [email protected]. experience this summer. If interested email on a shoestring budget this October. If you [email protected]. are interested in joining me for all or part of Midwest to Southwest — Spring/Summer this adventure, please email me and I can give 2012 I’m looking for some friends to join me Don’t talk about it, be about it! you details. If interested email zenmaster57@ on a trip from central Wisconsin to Silver I live at the gateway to the most epic coastal yahoo.com. City, New Mexico. Flexible schedule and very riding in North America, Big Sur. Looking to flexible route (Northern Tier, Sierra Cascades/ find like-minded people to share this amaz- Seeking a SAG driver(s) for My Dog — Spring Pacific Coast?) Planning to leave May/June ing merger of land and sea in late 2012. I’m a 2012 I’m a 51-year-old female open to cycling 2012. Semi-experienced, hoping for stress-free 35-year-old guy whose jonesing to get out and almost anywhere in the U.S., Europe, or the 50 to 70 miles per day. Self-supported and ride with the wind. Solo is fun and has its ups Middle East in summer 2012. I have a dog super low budget equals camping, warmshow- and downs but I prefer to enjoy the enthusi- with which I travel. I’m not yet strong enough ers, eating cheap (but healthy!), and being asm of others I am with and contribute to the to tow her, thus, until I am able to tow her flexible. 26-year-old woman. Riding for fun, enjoyment of touring. If you’re just passing and my gear, it would be great to have assis- adventure, and being alive. If interested email through or live here too, let’s plan a tour. Any tance. If you are traveling for three to six [email protected]. time. Any year. Starting today! No 100-mile weeks in any of these locations and would like days here. If interested email sboshco@gmail. to offer support (either sag or towing her with Modified Lewis & Clark/Northern Tier/North com. your bike); I can offer money or barter my Lakes We’re a group of three (two male, one skills. I rode across the U.S. 14 years ago and female — ages 61, 45, 22 respectively) cycling ready to ride again. If interested email idesign west to east “Portland to Portland” (Oregon to Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but can- [email protected]. Maine) beginning early June 2012. To include not verify, that the persons above are truthfully Glacier National Park, Yellowstone, Bighorns, representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure Southern Tier West to east in September Black Hills, North Lakes. Self-contained, Cycling members. You can see more ads and post 2012. Male (age 64) looking for fun com- mostly camping with some motels and hosts. new ones at www.adventurecycling.org/mag/comp panions on a southern route across the U.S. Some camp food, some restaurants. 50 to 75 anions.cfm or send your ad to Adventure Cyclist, Mostly hotels/hostels and some camping, but miles per day with time for hiking, site see- P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

Adventure Cycling Guided Tours adventurecycling.org/toursinfo

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 Open Road Gallery The Tall and Short of It by Sarah Raz Photograph by Greg Siple

Erika Jeffs and Jordan Townsend planned a ride from Cody, Wyoming, to Seattle, Washington, in celebration of graduating from college at the University of Wyoming (with degrees in math and engineering, respectively). “Being quite fed up with homework, deadlines, exams, and the general rigors of academia, we decided to plan our trip with the greatest amount of freedom builit into it,” said Jordan. They purchased a tent, hammocks, and sleeping bags so they could bed down wherever it struck their fancy. They had no plans for daily mileage, indeed, no concrete route plans at all — they left without a single map. Luckily, one of the first folks they met on the road was a gentleman headed in the opposite direction who gave them his Adventure Cycling map for the next part of their trip. You may notice a slight height differential between the two. Jordan is 6’6” and Erika is 5’2” so when they secured a “bulk discount” on a set of matching Surly Long Haul Truckers, he had to get the largest frame in production, and she, the smallest. The one-month trip was the couple’s first, and once they’d dialed in their oddly matching bikes, the adventure began to unfold. They camped out every night, spent lots of time at hot springs, and relished their time in Idaho (so little traffic!). The first glimpse of the Oregon Coast was especially poignant for two cyclists from landlocked Wyoming. Jordan and Erika now live in Washington, DC. They took the train from Seattle, where the cost to check the bikes was five dollars, and the bike boxes where free. They used their panniers to carry their luggage, so that when they arrived at Union Station, they were able to straighten their handlebars, attach their pedals, and ride to their new apartment with belongings in tow. Jordan now commutes to the city for his internship every day on his Long Haul Trucker. They would like to someday tour in Europe.

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG ADVENTURE CYCLIST SPECIAL ISSUE ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG 39 c h uck aney

Become an Adventure Cycling Member and you will receive: • 9 yearly issues of Adventure Cyclist magazine, including • Access to over 45 members-only group tours and the Cyclists’ Travel Guide: Bikes, Resources, & How-to. training classes. • Discounts on our 40,000 miles of bicycle route maps. Join online at: adventurecycling.org/membership You can also call us at 800-755-2453, or mail in the form below.

Adventure Cycling Membership Form Name

New Member Renewing Member Address City, State, Zip Membership Category 1 year 2 year Individual $40 $75 Email Family $50 $95 Senior* or Student $33 $61 Check Visa Mastercard Amex Discover Patron $60 $115 Credit Card # Benefactor $150 $280 Life $1000 Exp. Date Daytime Phone

* (60 years or older) Adventure Cycling is a 501 (c)3 non-profit, member-supported organization. The tax deductible portion of your membership is any amount over $14 per year.

Z ______For office use EXP TYP YRS SRC SL DON CR M SH