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1 The Best of the South Pacific

My own love affair with the South Pacific doesn’t go back quite that far, but Tahiti, , Samoa, Rarotonga, and Tonga have conjured up romantic images of an earthly paradise since European sailors brought home tales of their tropical splendor and uninhibited people in the 1760s. When I did wash ashore, I quickly understood why these remote outposts came to have such a reputation. These are some of the most beautiful islands in the world—if not the most beautiful. They are blessed with some of the most gorgeous beaches the planet has to offer, and their lagoons offer some of the globe’s most fabulous diving and snorkeling. Picking the best of the South Pacific is no easy task. I cannot, for example, choose the friendliest island, for the people of Tahiti and French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, Fiji, Samoa, American Samoa, and the Kingdom of Tonga are among the most wel- coming folks on earth. Their fabled history has provided fodder for famous books and films, their culture inspires hedonistic dreams, and their big smiles and genuine hos- pitality are prime attractions everywhere in the South Pacific. Personally, I like all the islands and all the islanders, which further complicates my chore to no end. In this chapter, I point out the best of the best—not necessarily to pass qualitative judgment, but to help you choose among many options. I list them here in the order in which they appear in the book. Your choice of destination will depend on why you are going to the islands. You can scuba dive to exhaustion or just sit on the beach with a trashy novel. You can share a 300-room hotel with package tourists or get away from it all on a tiny islet. Even out there, you can be left alone with your lover or join your fellow guests at lively dinner parties. You can totally ignore the Pacific Islanders around you or enrich your own life by learning about theirs. You can listen to the day’s events on CNN International or see what the South Seas were like a century ago. Those decisions are all yours. For a preview of each South Pacific country, see “The Islands in Brief” in chapter 2.

1 The MostCOPYRIGHTED Beautiful Islands MATERIAL “In the South Seas,” Rupert Brooke wrote tain peaks plunging into aquamarine in 1914, “the Creator seems to have laid lagoons. Here are some that you see on the himself out to show what He can do.” travel posters and in the brochures: How right the poet was, for all across the • The (Fiji): This ranks South Pacific lie some of the world’s most as the South Pacific’s hottest destina- dramatically beautiful islands. In my opin- tion of late, especially for backpack- ion, the best of the lot have jagged moun- ers. A chain of long, narrow islands 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 5

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ISLANDS 5 off the northwest coast of , of the Cook Islands boasts the beauty Fiji’s main island, the Yasawas have of Tahiti—with hints of Moorea— some of the region’s best beaches. but without the development and the Despite the inroads of tourism, how- high prices of French Polynesia. See ever, the group remains mostly popu- chapter 12. lated by Fijians who live in traditional • Aitutaki (Cook Islands): A junior villages. See chapter 5. version of Bora Bora, Aitutaki sits at • (Fiji): The sheer cliffs of the apex of a shallow, colorful lagoon, Ovalau kept the town of Levuka from which from the air looks like a becoming Fiji’s modern capital, but turquoise carpet laid on the deep blue they create a dramatic backdrop to an sea. See “Aitutaki” in chapter 12. old South Seas town little changed in • Upolu (Samoa): Robert Louis Steven- the past century. Ovalau has no good son was so enraptured with Samoa beaches, which means it has no that he spent the last 5 years of his life resorts to alter its landscape. See “A in the hills of Upolu. The well-weath- Side Trip Back in Time to Levuka” in ered eastern part of the island is chapter 5. ruggedly beautiful, especially in • and Matagi Islands (Fiji): Aliepata, where a cliff virtually drops These little jewels off the northern down to one of the region’s most spec- coast of are lushly beautiful, tacular beaches. See “Exploring Apia with their shorelines either dropping & the Rest of Upolu” in chapter 13. precipitously into the calm surround- • Savai’i (Samoa): One of the largest ing waters or forming little bays with Polynesian islands, this great volcanic idyllic beaches. See “Resorts on Qamea shield slopes gently on its eastern side & Matagi Islands” in chapter 6. to a chain of gorgeous beaches. There • Moorea (French Polynesia): I think are no towns on Savai’i, only tradi- Moorea is the most beautiful island in tional Samoan villages interspersed the world. Nothing to my mind com- among rain forests, which adds to its pares with its sawtooth ridges and the unspoiled beauty. See “Savai’i” in great dark-green hulk of Mount Rotui chapter 13. separating glorious Cook’s and • Tutuila (American Samoa): A pri- Opunohu bays. The view from Tahiti mary reason to go to American of Moorea’s dinosaur-like skyline is Samoa these days is to see the physi- unforgettable. See chapter 9. cal beauty of Tutuila and its magnifi- • Bora Bora (French Polynesia): The cent harbor at Pago Pago. If you can late James Michener thought that ignore the tuna canneries and huge Bora Bora was the most beautiful stacks of shipping containers, this island in the world. Although island is right up there with Moorea. tourism has turned this gem into sort See chapter 14. of an expensive South Seas Disney- • Vava’u (Tonga): One of the South land since Michener’s day, develop- Pacific’s best yachting destinations, ment hasn’t altered the incredible hilly Vava’u is shaped like a jellyfish, beauty of Bora Bora’s basaltic tomb- with small islands instead of tentacles stone towering over a lagoon ranging trailing off into a quiet lagoon. in color from yellow to deep blue. See Waterways cut into the center of the chapter 10. main island, creating the picturesque • Rarotonga (Cook Islands): Only and perfectly protected Port of 32km (20 miles) around, the capital Refuge. See “Vava’u” in chapter 15. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 6

6 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC

2 The Best Beaches Because all but a few South Pacific islands recently this long stretch was spared are surrounded by coral reefs, there are development, but a big resort is few surf beaches in the region. Tahiti has coming. See “The Coral Coast” in a few, but they all have heat-absorbing chapter 5. black volcanic sand. Otherwise, most • Horseshoe Bay (Matagi Island, Fiji): islands (and all but a few resorts) have Home of one of the region’s best-value bathtublike lagoons that lap on coral resorts, Matagi is an extinct volcano sands draped by coconut palms. Fortu- whose crater fell away on one side and nately for the environmentalists among formed picturesque Horseshoe Bay. us, some of the most spectacular beaches The half-moon beach at its head is are on remote islands and are protected one of the finest in the islands, but from development by the islanders’ devo- you will have to be on a yacht or a tion to their cultures and villages’ land guest at Matangi Island Resort to rights. Here are a few that stand out from enjoy it. See “Resorts on Qamea & the many. Matagi Islands” in chapter 6. • Yasawa Island (Fiji): One of the • Temae Plage Publique (Moorea, most spectacular beaches I’ve ever French Polynesia): The northeastern seen is on Yasawa Island, northern- coast of Moorea is fringed by a nearly most of the gorgeous chain of the uninterrupted stretch of white-sand same name. This long expanse of beach which commands a glorious deep sand is broken by a teapotlike view across a speckled lagoon to rock outcrop, which also separates Tahiti sitting on the horizon across two Fijian villages, whose residents the Sea of the Moon. See “Exploring own this land. Blue Lagoon Cruises Moorea” in chapter 9. and oceangoing cruise ships stop • Matira Beach (Bora Bora, French here; otherwise, the Fijians keep it all Polynesia): Beginning at the Hotel to themselves. There are other good Bora Bora, this fine ribbon of sand beaches on Yasawa, however, and two stretches around skinny Matira Point, of them are at Yasawa Island Resort which forms the island’s southern and Oarsman’s Bay Lodge. See “The extremity, all the way to the Club Yasawa Islands” in chapter 5. Med. The eastern side has views of • Vatulele Island Resort Beach (Vat- the islands of Raiatea and Tahaa. See ulele Island, Fiji): Nearly a kilometer “Exploring Bora Bora” in chapter 10. 1 ( ⁄2 mile) of deep white sand fronts the • Avea Beach (Huahine, French Poly- deluxe Vatulele Island Resort, off the nesia): My favorite resort beach is at south shore of Viti Levu, Fiji’s main Relais Mahana, a small hotel on Auea island. Guests can have dinner out on Bay near Huahine’s southern end. the beach or get a bird’s-eye view Trees grow along the white beach, from a private gazebo overlooking the which slopes into a lagoon deep sands. See “A Resort on Vatulele enough for swimming at any tide. Island” in chapter 5. The resort’s pier goes out to a giant • Natadola Beach (The Coral Coast, coral head, a perfect and safe place to Fiji): Fiji’s main island of Viti Levu snorkel, and the lagoon here is pro- doesn’t have the high-quality beaches tected from the trade winds, making found on the country’s small islands, it safe for . See “Where to Stay but Natadola is an exception. Until on Huahine” in chapter 11. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 7

THE BEST HONEYMOON DESTINATIONS 7 • Titikaveka Beach (Rarotonga, Cook forms a dramatic backdrop to the Islands): On Rarotonga’s southern deep sands of Lolomanu Beach, coast, Titikaveka is blessed with palm which faces a group of small islets off- trees draped over a long beach of bril- shore. On a clear day you can see liant white sand, and the lagoon here American Samoa from here. This is a is the island’s best for swimming and great place to stay in an open-air snorkeling. See “Exploring Raro- “beach fale.” See “Exploring Apia & tonga” in chapter 12. the Rest of Upolu” in chapter 13. • Beach on One Foot Island (Aitu- • Return to Paradise Beach (Upolu, taki, Cook Islands): The sands on the Samoa): This idyllic stretch of white islets surrounding Aitutaki gleam sand and black rocks overhung by pure white, like talcum. Tiny One coconut palms gets its name from Foot Island has the best beach here, Return to Paradise, the 1953 Gary with part of it along a channel whose Cooper movie that was filmed here. coral bottom is scoured clean by Surf actually pounds on the rocks. strong tidal currents. Another stretch See “Exploring Apia & the Rest of runs out to a sandbar known as Nude Upolu” in chapter 13. Island—a reference not to clothes but • Manase Beach (Savai’i, Samoa): The to a lack of vegetation. See “Explor- long stretch of white sand fronting ing Aitutaki” in chapter 12. Manase village on the north shore of • Lalomanu Beach (Upolu, Samoa): Savai’i is another great place to spend In the Aleipata district on the eastern a night in an open-air beach fale. See end of Upolu, a clifflike mountain “Savai’i” in chapter 13.

3 The Best Honeymoon Destinations Whether you’re on your honeymoon or watching an X-rated video,” a hotel man- not, the South Pacific is a marvelous place ager once confessed, “but without the for romantic escapes. After all, romance video.”) Therefore, if you’re seeking a and the islands have gone hand-in-hand high degree of privacy and seclusion they since the bare-breasted young women of won’t be your best choice. Tahiti gave rousing welcomes to the 18th- On the other hand, many of the South century European explorers. Pacific’s small, relatively remote offshore I’ve never stayed anywhere as romantic resorts offer as much privacy as you are as a thatch-roof bungalow built on stilts likely to desire. These little establishments over a lagoon, with a glass panel in its would also fall into another category: The floor for viewing fish swimming below Best Places to Get Away from It All. They you and steps leading from your front are so romantic that a friend of mine says deck into the warm waters below. You’ll her ideal wedding would be to rent an find lots of these in French Polynesia— entire small resort in Fiji, take her wed- especially on Bora Bora, the South ding party with her, get married in Fijian Pacific’s most famous (and expensive) costume beside the beach, and make the honeymoon destination—and a handful rest of her honeymoon a diving vacation. more in the Cook Islands and in Samoa. Most resorts covered in this book are well One caveat is in order: Many overwa- aware of such desires, and they offer wed- ter bungalows are relatively close ding packages complete with traditional together, meaning that your honeymoon- ceremony and costumes. Choose your ing next-door neighbors will be within resort, and then contact the management earshot if not eyeshot. (“It can be like for details about their wedding packages. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC In the meantime, here’s what the two Off Taveuni, Matangi Island best honeymoon destinations have to Resort is one of the region’s best val- offer: ues for honeymooners. One of its • Fiji: Fiji has one of the world’s finest widely spaced bungalows is built 20 collections of small offshore resorts. feet up in a Pacific almond tree, and These little establishments have two two more are carved into the side of a advantages over their French Polyne- cliff (they are reserved for honey- sian competitors. First, they have less mooners). See p. 178. Among my than 20 bungalows each, instead of favorite places to stay are the charm- the 40 or more found at the French ing, old South Seas–style bungalows Polynesian resorts, which means they and stunning central building at are usually more widely spaced than Qamea Resort and Spa. Kerosene their Tahitian cousins. Second, they lanterns romantically light the 52- are on islands all by themselves. foot-high thatch roof of Qamea’s Together, these two advantages mul- main building, and each bungalow tiply the privacy factor several fold. has an outdoor shower and its own The atmosphere at Turtle Island hammock strung across the front Resort (p. 124) and the Vatulele porch. See p. 178. Island Resort (p. 135), both in the • French Polynesia: The resorts here luxurious, superexpensive category, is have the region’s best selection of active. Guests have the choice of din- overwater bungalows. Invariably ing alone in their bungalows or at these are the most expensive style of lively dinner parties hosted by the accommodation in French Polynesia. engaging owners. Yasawa Island On Tahiti, which most visitors Resort sits on one of the prettiest now consider a way station to the beaches and has a very low-key, other islands, the Inter-Continental friendly ambience. It has very large Tahiti Beachcomber Resort has bungalows, the choice being the overwater bungalows that face the secluded honeymoon unit that sits by dramatic outline of Moorea across its own beach. If you can’t get that, be the Sea of the Moon. See p. 233. sure to reserve one of the newer units Some of those at Le Meridien Tahiti because a communal pathway runs also have this view. See p. 233. just outside the bedroom windows of On Moorea, the units at the Club the older bungalows. See p. 125. Bali Hai are the among the oldest— Much less luxurious but also much and the least expensive—overwater less expensive, Matamanoa Island bungalows in the islands, but they Resort caters exclusively to couples, enjoy an unparalleled view of the making it a good choice for honey- jagged mountains surrounding mooners on a budget. See p. 121. Cook’s Bay. See p. 257. Some overwa- In central Fiji off Suva, The ter units at the Sofitel Ia Ora face Wakaya Club has the largest bunga- Tahiti across the Sea of the Moon, lows in Fiji, plus a palatial mansion and they’re built over Moorea’s most with its own pool, perched high atop colorful lagoon. See p. 257. The a ridge. The staff leaves the guests to Moorea Pearl Resort has a few their own devices. You might see a perched on the edge of the clifflike movie star or two relaxing at Wakaya. reef, making for superb snorkeling See p. 154. right off your front deck. See p. 256. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 9

THE BEST FAMILY VACATIONS 9 Bora Bora has several hundred over- On Huahine, units at the Te Tiare water bungalows, and many more will Beach Resort have some of the be there by the time you plan your largest decks of any overwater bunga- trip. Meantime, the largest and most lows (one side is completely shaded luxurious are at the Bora Bora Nui by a thatch roof). See p. 290. The Resort (p. 275), although they don’t most charming of all overwater units look out to pillarlike Mount Ote- are at the Le Taha’a Private Island & manu, which rises across the famous Spa, a luxurious resort on a small islet lagoon. Along with Cook’s Bay on off Tahaa. Some of these espy Bora Moorea, this is one of the most pho- Bora on the horizon. See p. 298. tographed scenes in the entire South Out at the huge atoll known as Pacific. For that signature vista, you Rangiroa, in the Tuamotu archipel- have to stay at the Sofitel Motu ago, Hotel Kia Ora has bungalows (p. 278) or at the Hotel Bora Bora over the world’s second-largest (p. 276). Other bungalows at the lagoon. See p. 302. On the adjacent Hotel Bora Bora sit right on the reef’s atoll, overwater bungalows at the new edge. Ashore, the Hotel Bora Bora has Tikehau Pearl Beach Resort actually large, luxurious bungalows that boast sit over the rip tides in a pass that lets their own courtyards with swimming the sea into the lagoon. See p. 304. pools. Equally private though less luxe On Manihi atoll, units at the Manihi are the garden units at the Bora Bora Pearl Beach Resort are cooled by the Pearl Beach Resort; you can cavort to almost constantly blowing trade your heart’s content in their wall- winds. Isolated on their own islets, the enclosed patios, which have sun decks Pearl Beach resorts on Tikihau and and splash pools. See p. 276. The Manihi more closely approximate smaller but well-appointed overwater Fiji’s offshore resorts than any others units at the friendly Hotel Maitai in French Polynesia. See p. 305. Polynesia are the least expensive on Bora Bora. See p. 279.

4 The Best Family Vacations There are no Disney Worlds or other Castaway has plenty to keep both such attractions in the islands. That’s not adults and children occupied, from a to say that children won’t have a fine time wide array of watersports to a kids’ here, for more and more resorts are mak- playroom and a nursery. There’s even ing provisions for families as well as hon- a nurse on duty. See p. 119. eymooners. Kids will enjoy themselves • Jean-Michel Cousteau Fiji Islands most if they like being around the water. Resort (Savusavu, Fiji): The South A family can vacation in style and Pacific’s finest family resort encour- comfort at large resorts like the big resorts ages parents to enroll their kids in an on Denarau Island in Fiji, or Shangri-la’s exceptional environmental education Fijian Resort on the Coral Coast, but program. It keeps the youngsters here are some of the best smaller estab- both educated and entertained from lishments that welcome families with sunup to bedtime. See p. 164. children. • InterContinental Resort and Spa • Castaway Island Resort (Mamanuca Moorea (Moorea, French Polynesia): Islands, Fiji): One of Fiji’s oldest Most resorts in French Polynesia are resorts but thoroughly refurbished, designed for romance, not children. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC The one notable exception is the like a phoenix after years of govern- Moorea Beachcomber, which has an ment-owned neglect, this is now the attractive pool, a calm lagoon, the best international-standard resort on widest selection of watersports in Rarotonga. Although it caters to French Polynesia, and a kids’ pro- everyone from honeymooners to fam- gram. See p. 259. ilies, the Rarotongan’s children’s pro- • The Rarotongan Beach Resort & gram is tops in the Cook Islands. See Spa (Rarotonga, Cook Islands): Rising p. 336.

5 The Best Cultural Experiences The South Pacific Islanders are justly educational experience. For a look at proud of their ancient Polynesian and flora and fauna of the island, and their Fijian cultures, and they eagerly inform traditional uses, Pa’s Cross-Island anyone who asks about both their ancient Mountain Trek cannot be topped. See and modern ways. Here are some of the “Exploring Rarotonga” in chapter 12. best ways to learn about the islanders and • Samoa: The entire country serves as a their lifestyles. cultural storehouse of fa’a Samoa, the • Fijian Village Visits (Fiji): Many traditional Samoan way of life. Most tours from Nadi and from most off- Samoans still live in villages featuring shore resorts include visits to tradi- fales (oval houses), some of which have tional Fijian villages, whose residents stood for centuries—although tin stage welcoming ceremonies (featur- roofs have replaced thatch. The island ing the slightly narcotic drink kava) of Savai’i is especially well preserved. A and then show visitors around and highlight of any visit to Savai’i should explain how the old and the new be a tour with Warren Jopling, a combine in today’s villages. See retired Australian geologist who has “Sightseeing Tours” in chapter 5. lived on Samoa’s largest island for • Tiki Theatre Village (Moorea, French many years. Not only does he know Polynesia): Built to resemble a pre- the forbidding lava fields like the back European Tahitian village, this cultural of his hand, but everyone on Savai’i center on Moorea has demonstrations knows him, which helps make his cul- of handicraft making and puts on a tural commentaries extremely inform- nightly dance show and feast. It’s a bit ative. See “Savai’i” in chapter 13. commercial, and the staff isn’t always • Tongan National Centre fluent in English, but this is the only (Nuku’alofa, Tonga): Artisans turn place in French Polynesia where one out classic Tongan handicrafts, and a can sample the old ways. See “Explor- museum exhibits Tongan history, ing Moorea” in chapter 9. including the robe worn by Queen • Rarotonga (Cook Islands): In addi- Salote at the coronation of Queen tion to offering some of the region’s Elizabeth II in 1953; and the carcass most laid-back beach vacations, the of Tui Malila, a Galápagos turtle that people of Rarotonga go out of their Captain James Cook reputedly gave way to let visitors know about their to the king of Tonga in 1777, and unique Cook Islands way of life. A which lived until 1968. The center morning spent at the Cook Islands also has island-night dance shows and Cultural Village and on a cultural feasts of traditional Tongan food. See tour of the island is an excellent “Exploring Tongatapu” in chapter 15. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 11

THE BEST DINING EXPERIENCES 11

6 The Best of the Old South Seas Many South Pacific islands are develop- than a collection of Chinese shops ing rapidly, with modern, fast-paced fronting the island’s wharf, which cities replacing what were sleepy backwa- comes to life when ships pull in. See ter ports, such as those at Papeete in “Huahine” in chapter 11. French Polynesia and Suva in Fiji. How- • Aitutaki (Cook Islands): Although it ever, there are still many remnants of the is now one of the hottest destinations old South Sea days of coconut planters, in the South Pacific, the little island of beach bums, and missionaries. Aitutaki is still very much old Polyne- • Levuka (Ovalau Island, Fiji): No sia, with most of its residents still other town has remained the same farming and fishing for a living. The after a century as has Levuka, Fiji’s crystal-clear lagoon is something to first European-style town and its orig- behold. See “Aitutaki” in chapter 12. inal colonial capital in the 1870s. The • Apia (Samoa): Despite a sea wall dramatic cliffs of Ovalau Island along what used to be a beach and hemmed in the town and prevented two large high-rise buildings sitting growth, so the government moved to on reclaimed land, a number of clap- Suva in 1882. Levuka looks very board buildings and 19th-century much as it did then, with a row of churches make Apia look much as it clapboard general stores along pictur- did when German, American, and esque Beach Street. See “A Side Trip British warships washed ashore dur- Back in Time to Levuka” in chapter 5. ing a hurricane here in 1889. See • Taveuni Island (Northern Fiji): Like “Exploring Apia & the Rest of Savai’i, Fiji’s third-largest and most Upolu” in chapter 13. lush island has changed little since • Savai’i (Samoa): One of the largest of Europeans started coconut planta- all Polynesian islands, this great vol- tions there in the 1860s. With the canic shield also is one of the least largest remaining population of populated, with the oval-shaped indigenous plants and animals of any houses of traditional villages sitting South Pacific island, Taveuni is a beside freshwater bathing pools fed nature lover’s delight. See “Taveuni” by underground springs. See “Savai’i” in chapter 6. in chapter 13. • Huahine (French Polynesia): Of the • Neiafu (Vava’u, Tonga): Although French Polynesian islands frequented Nuku’alofa, the capital on the main by visitors, Huahine has been the island of Tongatapu, gets most of the least affected by tourism, and its resi- ink about Tonga, the little village of dents are still likely to give you an Neiafu on the sailor’s paradise of unprompted Tahitian greeting, “Ia Vava’u has remained untouched by orana!” As on Aitutaki, agriculture is development. Built by convicted still king on Huahine, which makes it adulteresses, the Road of the Doves the “Island of Fruits.” There are still winds above the dramatic Port of ancient marae (temples) to visit, and Refuge, just as it did in 1875. See the only town, tiny Fare, is little more “Vava’u” in chapter 15.

7 The Best Dining Experiences You won’t be stuck eating island-style from Underground Ovens” in the appen- food cooked in an earth oven (see “Feasts dix), nor will you be limited to the rather 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC bland tastes of New Zealanders and Aus- peas to Fijian-style palusami (fresh tralians, which predominate at many fish wrapped in taro leaves and restaurants. Wherever the French go, fine steamed in coconut milk). See p. 155. food and wine are sure to follow, and • Auberge du Pacifique (Papeete, French Polynesia is no exception. The Tahiti): Award-winning chef Jean East Indians brought curries to Fiji, and Galopin has been blending French chefs trained there have spread those and Polynesian cuisines at his lagoon- spicy offerings to the other islands. Many side restaurant—with a removable chefs in Tonga are from Germany and roof to let in starlight—since 1974. Italy and specialize in their own “native” He’s even written a cookbook about food. Chinese cuisine of varying quality Tahitian cooking. See p. 238. can be found everywhere. • Le Lotus (Papeete, Tahiti): The most Wine connoisseurs will have ample romantic setting of any South Pacific opportunity to sample the vintages from restaurant is in this overwater dining nearby Australia, where abundant sun- room at the Tahiti Beachcomber shine produces renowned full-bodied, Inter-Continental Resort. Even if the fruit-driven varieties, such as chardonnay, food weren’t gourmet French and the semillon, Riesling, shiraz, Hermitage, service highly efficient and unobtru- cabernet sauvignon, and merlot. New sive, the view of Moorea on a moon- Zealand wines are also widely available, lit night makes an evening here including distinctive whites, such as special. See p. 238. chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc, and soft • Linareva Floating Restaurant and merlot. Freight and import duties drive Bar (Moorea, French Polynesia): up the cost of wine, so expect higher With luck you won’t get queasy while prices than at home. dining at chef Eric Lussiez’s charming • Chefs The Restaurant (Nadi, Fiji): restaurant, which occupies the origi- Chef Eugeme Gomes’s establishment nal ferry that plied between Tahiti has gourmet cuisine, excellent serv- and Moorea. His menu highlights ice, and lots of little touches that fresh seafood excellently prepared in make for Fiji’s finest dining experi- the classic French fashion. See p. 263. ence. There’s a branch in Suva, too. • Bloody Mary’s Restaurant & Bar See p. 112. (Bora Bora, French Polynesia): A fun • Vilisite’s Seafood Restaurant (The evening at the South Pacific’s most Coral Coast, Fiji): This seaside famous restaurant is a must-do expe- restaurant, owned and operated by a rience when on Bora Bora. That’s friendly Fijian woman named Vil- because Bloody’s offers the most isite, doesn’t look like much from the unique and charming dining experi- outside, but it offers a handful of ence in the islands. Come early for a excellent seafood meals to augment a drink at the friendly bar, then pick terrific view along Fiji’s Coral Coast your fresh seafood from atop a huge from the veranda. See p. 136. tray of ice. After eating heavy French • Old Mill Cottage (Suva, Fiji): Diplo- fare elsewhere for a few days, the mats and government workers pack sauceless fish from the grill will seem this old colonial cottage at breakfast downright refreshing. See p. 280. and lunch for some of the region’s best • La Villa Mahana (Bora Bora, French and least expensive local fare. Offer- Polynesia): Corsican chef Damien ings range from English-style roast Rinaldi Devio also offers relief from chicken with mashed potatoes and traditional French sauces at his little 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 13

THE BEST ISLAND NIGHTS 13 restaurant, where he uses “exotic” complete with tables on an upstairs spices to enliven fresh fish and beef veranda overlooking historic Beach dishes. See p. 280. Road and Apia Harbour. You’ll never • Tamarind House Restaurant & Bar forget the Commodore Sashimi. See (Rarotonga, Cook Islands): Noted p. 385. restaurateur and cookbook author • Seaview Restaurant (Nuku’alofa, Sue Carruthers brings the seasonings Tonga): In a country where restau- of her native Kenya to this charmer in rants come and go, this German- a seaside colonial house. See p. 341. owned establishment in an old • Sails Restaurant and Bar (Apia, waterfront home has provided Samoa): Ian and Lyvia Black have Nuku’alofa’s best cuisine for years. turned Robert Louis Stevenson’s first Tonga is the last island nation with a Samoan home into one of the South reliable supply of spiny tropical lob- Pacific’s best casual restaurants, sters, so go for one here. See p. 435.

8 The Best Island Nights Don’t come to the South Pacific islands dancing. The resorts rely on village expecting opera and ballet, or Las groups to perform a few times a Vegas–style floor shows, either. Other than week. The very best shows are during pub-crawling to bars and nightclubs with the annual Heiva i Tahiti festival in music for dancing, evening entertainment July; the winners then tour the other here consists primarily of island nights, islands in August for minifestivals at which invariably feature feasts of island the resorts. See “Island Nights” in foods followed by traditional dancing. chapters 8 through 10. In the cases of French Polynesia and the • The Cook Islands: Although the Cook Islands, of course, the hip-swinging Tahitians are more famous for their traditional dances are world famous. They dancing than the Cook Islanders, are not as lewd and lascivious today as many of their original movements they were in the days before the mission- were quashed by the missionaries in aries arrived, but they still have plenty of the early 19th century. By the time the suggestive movements to the primordial French took over in 1841 and allowed beat of drums. By contrast, dancing in dancing again, the Tahitians had for- Fiji, Tonga, and the Samoas is much more gotten much of the old movements. reserved, with graceful movements, ter- They turned to the Cook Islands, rific harmony, and occasional action in a where dancing was—and still is—the war or fire dance. thing to do when the sun goes down. • French Polynesia: Hotels are In the Cooks the costumes tend to be the places in which to see Tahitian more natural and less colorful than in

Weekend Pub Crawling Fundamentalist Christians may own Sundays in the islands, but Friday and Sat- urday nights definitely belong to the sinners. That’s because bar-hopping—or pub-crawling as it’s known out here—is the thing to do after dark on week- ends. Every island has its favorite bars, which are packed until the wee hours on Friday night, until midnight on Saturday. There’s a dark side, however, for fights can break out, and drunken driving is a problem on those nights. 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC the Tahitian floor shows, but the was started in the 1940s by the late movements tend to be more active, Aggie Grey, who at the show’s culmi- suggestive, and genuine. There’s an nation personally danced the graceful island night show every evening except siva. Nowadays the show includes a Sunday on Rarotonga. The best rousing fire dance around the adja- troupes usually perform at the Edge- cent pool. See “Island Nights on water Resort and the Rarotongan Upolu” in chapter 13. Beach Resort, but ask around. The • Tonga: The weekly shows at the Ton- best public performances are during gan National Centre are unique, for the annual Dancer of the Year contest this museum provides expert com- in April and the Constitution Week mentary before each dance, explain- celebrations in August. See “Island ing its movements and their Nights on Rarotonga” in chapter 12. meanings. That’s a big help, since all • Samoa: Among the great shows in the songs throughout the South Pacific South Pacific are fiafia nights in the are in the native languages. See magnificent main building at Aggie “Island Nights on Tongatapu” in Grey’s Hotel in Apia. This tradition chapter 15.

9 The Best Buys Take some extra money along, for you’ll degree. Tonga has the widest selection spend it on handicrafts, black pearls, and of woven items, although Samoa and tropical clothing. Fiji are making comebacks. The For the locations of the best shops, see finely woven mats made in Tonga and the shopping sections in chapters 5 the Samoas are still highly valued as through 15. ceremonial possessions and are sel- • Black Pearls: Few people will escape dom for sale to tourists. See chapters French Polynesia or the Cook Islands 5, 13, and 15. without buying at least one black Before the coming of European pearl. That’s because the shallow, traders and printed cotton, the South clear-water lagoons of French Polyne- Pacific islanders wore garments made sia’s Tuamotu archipelago and the from the beaten bark of the paper Manihiki and Penrhyn atolls in the mulberry tree. The making of this Cook Islands are the world’s largest bark cloth, widely known as tapa, is producers of the beautiful dark orbs. another preserved art in Tonga, The seemingly inexhaustible supply Samoa (where it is called siapo), and has resulted in fierce competition by Fiji (where it is known as masi). The vendors ranging from market stalls to cloth is painted with dyes made from high-end jewelry shops. See chapters natural substances, usually in geo- 8 through 12. metric designs that have ancestries • Handicrafts: Although many of the dating back thousands of years. Tapa items you will see in island souvenir is an excellent souvenir because it can shops are actually made in Asia, be folded and brought back in a suit- locally produced handicrafts are the case. See chapters 5, 13, and 15. South Pacific’s best buys. The most Woodcarvings are also popular. widespread are hats, mats, and bas- Spears, war clubs, knives made from kets woven of pandanus or other sharks’ teeth, canoe prows, and can- fibers, usually by women who have nibal forks are some examples. Many maintained this ancient art to a high carvings, however, tend to be 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 15

THE BEST SAILING 15 produced for the tourist trade and hand-dyed fabrics are very popular in often lack the imagery of bygone the islands for making dresses or the days, and some may be machine-pro- wraparound skirt known as pareu in duced today. Carved tikis are found Tahiti and Rarotonga, lava-lava in in most South Pacific countries, but the Samoas and Tonga, and sulu in many of them resemble the figures of Fiji. Heat-sensitive dyes are applied the New Zealand Maoris rather than by hand to gauzelike cotton, which is figures indigenous to those countries. then laid in the sun for several hours. The carvings from Fiji and the Mar- Flowers, leaves, and other designs are quesas Islands of French Polynesia are placed on the fabric, and as the heat the best of the lot today. See chapters of the sun darkens and sets the dyes, 5 and 8 through 12. the shadows from these objects leave • Tropical Clothing: Colorful hand- their images behind on the finished screened, hand-blocked, and product. See chapters 5 through 15.

10 The Best Diving & Snorkeling All the islands have excellent scuba diving some lagoons in French Polynesia and snorkeling, and all but a few of the have been relatively “fished out” over resorts either have their own dive opera- the years. That’s not to say that diving tions or can easily make arrangements in such places as Moorea and Bora with a local company. Here are the best: Bora can’t be world class, but the best • Fiji: With nutrient-rich waters is at Rangiroa, Manihi, and Fakarava welling up from the Tonga Trench in the Tuamotu Archipelago. All are offshore and being carried by strong more famous for their abundant sea currents funneling through narrow life, including sharks, than colorful passages, Fiji is famous for some of soft corals. Go to Rangiroa to see the world’s most colorful soft corals. sharks; go to the others to see more This is especially true of the Somo- fish than you imagined ever existed. somo Strait between and See chapter 11. Taveuni in northern Fiji, home of the • Tonga: The north shore of the main Rainbow Reef and its Great White island of Tongatapu fronts a huge Wall. The Beqa Lagoon is also lagoon, where the government has famous for having plentiful soft made national parks of the Hakau- corals. See chapters 5 and 6. mama’o and Malinoa reefs. The best • Rangiroa, Manihi, and Fakarava diving in Tonga, however, is around (French Polynesia): Like those sur- unspoiled Ha’apai and Vava’u. See rounding most populated islands, “Ha’apai” and “Vava’u” in chapter 15.

11 The Best Sailing One would think that the South Pacific is yachting is not that widespread. It has a yachting paradise, and it certainly gets only recently gained a toehold in Fiji. more than its share of cruising boats on There are only two places where you can holiday from Australia and New Zealand charter a yacht and sail it yourself: or heading around the world (the region • Raiatea (French Polynesia): Firms is on the safest circumnavigation route). have charter fleets based in Raiatea in However, the reefs in most places make the Leeward Islands of French Poly- sailing a precarious undertaking, so nesia. Raiatea shares a lagoon with 05_769800 ch01.qxp 6/27/06 9:27 PM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF THE SOUTH PACIFIC Tahaa, a hilly island indented with virtually serrated by well-protected long bays that shelter numerous bays like the nearby Port of Refuge. anchorages. Boats can be sailed com- Chains of small islands trail off the pletely around Tahaa without leaving south side of Vava’u like the tentacles the lagoon, and both Bora Bora and of a jellyfish, creating large and very Huahine are just 32km (20 miles) quiet cruising grounds. Many away over blue water. See “Raiatea & anchorages are off deserted islands Tahaa” in chapter 11. with their own beaches. See “Vava’u” • Vava’u (Tonga): The second most in chapter 15. popular yachting spot, Vava’u is

12 The Best Offbeat Travel Experiences Some cynics might say that a visit to the enjoy every minute spent in one of South Pacific itself is an offbeat experi- Samoa’s beach fales—little thatch-roof ence, but there are a few things to do that buildings perched beside one of that are even more unusual. country’s lovely beaches. Forget pri- • Getting Asked to Dance (every- vacy, since most are open-sided in tra- where): I’ve seen so many traditional ditional Samoan fashion. But why South Pacific dance shows that I now block the view with unnecessary walls? stand by the rear door, ready to beat a And the neighbors you meet could quick escape before those lovely become lifetime friends. See “Where young women in grass skirts can grab to Stay on Upolu” and “Where to Stay my hand and force me to make a fool & Dine on Savai’i” in chapter 13. of myself trying to gyrate my hips up • Worshipping with the King on the stage. It’s part of the tourist (Nuku’alofa, Tonga): It’s not every experience at all resorts, and it’s all in day you get to see a real-life king, but good fun. you can in Tonga. In fact, you can • Swimming with the Sharks (Bora even go to church with him on Sun- Bora, French Polynesia): A key attrac- day, or perhaps watch him ride by in tion in Bora Bora’s magnificent his big, black SUV other days of the lagoon is to snorkel with a guide, week. See “How To Survive Sunday who actually feeds a school of sharks in Tonga” in chapter 15. as they thrash around in a frenzy. I • Cave Swimming (Samoa and Tonga): prefer to leave this one to the Discov- Boats can go right into Swallows Cave ery Channel. See “Exploring Bora on one of the small islands that make Bora” in chapter 10. up beautiful Vava’u, but you have to • Riding the Rip (Rangiroa and don masks and snorkels and follow a Manihi, French Polynesia): Snorkelers guide underwater into Mariner’s Cave, will never forget the flying sensation whose only light comes from the pas- as they ride the strong currents rip- sage you just swam through. See ping through a pass into the lagoons “Exploring Vava’u” in chapter 15. You at Rangiroa and Manihi. See “Ran- also have to swim underwater into the giroa” and “Manihi” in chapter 11. Piula Cave Pool in Samoa. See • Sleeping in a Beach Fale (Samoa): “Exploring Apia & the Rest of Upolu” Even if you don’t like to camp, you’ll in chapter 13.