ADVENTURE

THE LEOPARD IN WINTER

TRACKING THE MOST ELUSIVE OF THE BIG CATS IN THE FRIGID WILDS OF LADAKH. TEXT BY AMIT DIXIT. PHOTOGRAPHS BY PUNEET K. PALIWAL

A rare glimpse of the snow leopard inside the National Park NIKON D850/VR 70-200MM F/2.8G LENS (F/7.1, 1/4,000s, ISO: 400) LADAKH

n a way, the snow leopard was was Aly Rashid, Bhopal royal, passionate tion campaigning the next morning, so simply an excuse. Of course, I naturalist and leader of the expedition. we headed out early to avoid any traffic wanted to see one in the wild, but, There was a crew of seasoned trackers snarls. Destination: Ulley. in retrospect, the trip was more and guides. And there was me, the weak- Ladakh is lovely in any season, but in Iabout me: about challenging myself, est link in the chain. the depths of winter it is something else. pushing my limits, and finding out if I Snow leopards are best seen in winter, The landscape is stunning, and there’s had it in me to head into a Ladakh winter when they follow their prey down to a stillness in the air which belongs only and live to tell the tale. slightly lower altitudes. The plan was to winter. Every time we stepped out of You’re reading this, so I guess I did. simple. Although the leopards are just our cosy SUV to spot a herd of blue sheep It began comfortably enough, with about everywhere in Ladakh, two villag- or observe a lammergeier, however, the the party meeting at the well-appointed es have emerged as front runners in the wind chilled us to the bone. This did not Grand Dragon in Ladakh, where the joys viewing stakes: Ulley, north of the Indus deter us from getting out at the partially of central heating had reduced me to in West Ladakh, which was developed frozen confluence of the Indus and Zan- shorts and tees. The group included an by the Snow Leopard Conservancy for skar rivers, and taking in the view. Nor extroverted old Ladakh hand and an in- community-based leopard tourism, and did it bother us when we stopped longer troverted retired IT professional whose , deep inside the Hemis National by the side of the frozen and idea of fun was diving in mountain lakes Park and accessible only on foot from the went walking on it—a small sample of the in winter (but who could not handle any roadhead. Both were reasonable drives legendary Chadar trek, and enough to get spices in her food). Both hailed from from . Not wanting to leave anything you hooked. Switzerland. There was Puneet, our to chance, we would visit both. There always comes a moment in every photographer, who has the agility—and Meanwhile, Prime Minister Modi was trip when things click into place. For me chutzpah—of a tree-dwelling ape. There set to swoop into Leh for some pre-elec- this was that moment. The silence was Ladakh is lovely in any season, but in the depths of winter it is something else. The landscape is simply stunning

A structure used only in summer near Rumbak; NIKON D850/24- 70MM F/2.8G LENS (F/18, 1/250s, ISO: 320); and (facing page) glimpses from a walk (including a leopard pugmark) LADAKH

Aly Rashid of Jehan Numa Wilderness Blue sheep on a crag points at something NIKON D850, VR NIKON D850/24- 500MM F/4E LENS 70MM F/2.8G (F/8, 1/800s, ISO: 320) LENS (F22, 1/250s, ISO: 250) The party takes a break NIKON D850/24-70MM F/2.8G LENS (F/11, 1/125s, ISO: 250)

Curious wildlife NIKON Z6/VR 500MM F/4E LENS (F/9.5, 1/400s, ISO: AUTO)

Our host’s daughter in Looking for leopards Chukar partridges in Hemis Shukpachan Rumbak NIKON D850/ NIKON D850/24-70MM F/2.8G NIKON Z6/VR 500MM F/4E LENS 24-70MM F/2.8G LENS LENS (F/14, 1/400s, ISO: 250) (F/9.5, 1/1,000s, ISO: AUTO) (F/2.8, 1/40s, ISO: 200)

Gompa in NIKON D850/24- 70MM F/2.8G (F/10, 1/1,250s, ISO: 250) LADAKH deafening. The sky a crisp blue, with which was putting up a valiant fight and we slept fitfully. Someone dreamt of discreet smudges of cloud. The air clean. against the punishing cold outside. having their hand eaten by a snow leop- The company excellent. No leopard had been spotted near ard. If only we were so lucky... The nearly 1,000-year-old Likir Ulley in over a week, we were told, but Next morning, our spotters headed monastery en route was hosting a festival our spirits were undimmed. Everywhere out early with their scopes. They had no and we dropped by for a quick dekko. But there were delectable views. Chased by luck, however, so we decided to drive after that, it was strictly business, the a playful young yak, we climbed a nearby out to Hemis Shukpachan, a village with snow leopard on top of our minds. knoll and made angels in the snow. Not paths lined with wisp-like poplars. A Somewhere along the drive I nodded a good idea if you don’t have waterproof large and prosperous settlement in the off. When I awoke, we were above the clothing, we realised. shadow of towering mountains, this was snowline, in a surreal white wonderland. The living room—which in a tradi- once an important stop on an old trade This was Ulley, a tiny village at the mouth tional Ladakhi home would have been a route. Here we spotted chukar partridges of the Ulley Chhu valley, perched at functioning kitchen—was cosy and here galore, and urial on the high slopes. Mov- about 4,000m above sea level. There are we congregated in the evening for a little ing further down the village, we observed only a handful of homes here. We were talk by Aly on the wildlife of Ladakh. The a magnificent herd of ibex. This was a being hosted at the highest home in the lack of mobile connectivity helped us build-up to the big sighting, someone village, where a lodge had been purpose focus. There was a satellite phone in the suggested optimistically. built for snow leopard enthusiasts. Some village somewhere if acute homesickness Alas, it was not to be, at least not at of us chose to walk the last kilometre syndrome struck but we never felt the Ulley, and we headed back to Leh, but not through the snow to the lodge (I’m sure need to reach for it. Dinner was ample, before stopping to explore a remote and you can guess I wasn’t one of them). Here the night sky sumptuous with stars. exquisite valley that lay just below the we were welcomed by central heating, But it was the first night in a new place village. It was the first of several spec- Rumbak was misty, windswept and punishingly cold. At -20°C, the cold seeps into your skin. And bones. And sinews PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMIT DIXIT

View from the Rumbak arena NIKON D850/24-70MM F/2.8G LENS (F/9, 1/4,000s, ISO: 200)

Facing page: a friendly bovine in Hemis Shukpachan NIKON Z6/VR 500MM F/4E LENS (F/9.5, 1/125s, ISO: AUTO) LADAKH

The ‘arena’ at Rumbak NIKON D850/24-70MM F/2.8G LENS (F/9, 1/6,400s, ISO: 200 LADAKH Another glimpse of The cosy living room the snow leopard at the homestay in NIKON D850/VR 500 Ulley NIKON F/4E LENS (F/6.7, D850/24-70MM 1/320s, ISO: 400) F/2.8G LENS (F/8, 1/20s, ISO: 250)

in a valley nearby. Naturally, we had to go springs to mind when you think ‘national to our homestay, that we sighted a lynx It eventually settled down for a lengthy nap on a sunny crag. We chasing after them, since lynx sightings park’. Cynics may question the merit of from the ‘arena’, a natural viewing plat- are even rarer. snow leopard viewings—especially given form where the entire world seems to had such a long sighting we almost got bored A herd of blue sheep kept pace with the test of endurance they often are—and congregate in its quest for the shan, as the us on the other side of the frozen stream wonder what the fuss is all about. But, snow leopard is called locally. tacular day treks we would undertake the rest of the journey on foot. While the punishingly cold. At -20°C, the cold we were following. The call of a snow like I said, the snow leopard is just an I left Rumbak carpeted in a couple of in Ladakh in our cat quest. We followed others scampered up, I trailed behind. seeps into your skin. And bones. And cock filled the air. A gentle snow began excuse to reconnect with nature. The inches of snow, sated. Peter Matthiessen a frozen water channel upriver. At one And then, just like that, came news that sinews. This didn’t bother us overmuch. to fall. But no luck. Instead, we soaked experience is doubly special, given how didn’t see a snow leopard and managed point, the valley opened up dramatically. a wizened old leopard had been spotted The cold made us retreat into our shells in Rumbak’s ethereal beauty. Hemis is a beautiful yet fragile this habitat is. to write an entire book about it. I, having The sky was the blue of a tile from Samar- high up on some crags in Husing, a valley only briefly, and the robustbukhari in unique habitat, not the sort of place that It was only towards evening, close the gift of sight, am at a loss for words. kand. We stopped for tea and to catch our to our left popular with campers. There the homestay kitchen could always be breath. High up on a hill was a secluded was a spring in my step after that. relied upon to thaw our reserve. The days monastic retreat, where monks came to And, sure enough, when I’d hauled my fell into a routine. Wake up, have hearty meditate. While the crew scanned the pounding heart to the scene, there it was, breakfast, head out for the day to explore slopes for snow leopards, which I was walking nimbly on a precarious incline any of the valleys surrounding the village, # now beginning to believe were mytho- high above the valley. The leopard even- eat a warm packed lunch, return by eve- THE INFORMATION logical creatures, I played Sudoku on my tually settled down for a lengthy nap on a ning to chat by the fire, have nice dinner, phone. Very therapeutic. sunny crag, with its bushy tail—which is turn in. What more could one want? GETTING THERE the frozen river ‘Chadar’ trek. Given the nature of the terrain and tariff also depends on the number In Leh, there was somewhat more ef- an adaptation to its unique and challeng- Another snow leopard sighting, I Many domestic airlines fly into Leh Many organisations as well as challenging weather conditions, of people who sign up. The more fective central heating and hot showers, ing habitat—wrapped around it. We had guess. I learnt a thing or two about it too. from major Indian cities. Because homestays in Ulley and Rumbak it’s best to go with a reliable and the participants (maximum of technical issues arising out of offer the snow leopard experience. reputed operator. We travelled strength: 10), the lower the cost so it was an indisputably cleaner group such a long sighting we almost got bored. Most of all, it’s a waiting game, requiring the airport’s high altitude, the The general rule is, the longer your with Jehan Numa Wilderness, per person. This can be as low as that set out for Rumbak the next day. At It’s the best gift I could have received immense reserves of patience. It’s easier flights are mostly in the first half of trip, the better your chances of which runs a wildlife lodge in `161,500 + 5% GST for premium the entrance to the national park, we on my birthday. The cake with the snow if there is a generous supply of kahwa. the day. Fares in winter can be as spotting the elusive cat. We can’t the Satpuras (more are in the and `126,500 + 5% GST for basic. stopped to gaze at the swiftly flowing leopard pugmark iced on it that my hosts If your hosts are nice—like mine were— low as `3,000 return. emphasise enough the importance pipeline) and does pop-up Costs are ex-Leh. Next departures: Indus below and do some more spot- produced out of nowhere that night came you’ll be plied, logistics permitting, with of being kitted out properly for a expeditions to a variety of wildlife 1-12 Feb 2020 (premium plan); 13- THE TRIP trip like this. A sub-zero jacket, destinations through the year. 24 Feb 2020 (basic plan). Contact ting. “It’s like looking for a needle in a a close second. piping hot pakoras while you wait. Among Ladakh’s winter activities, preferably with a down filling, Both premium and basic plans are +91-8602672443 or expeditions@ haystack,” said Aly cheerily. Shortly after, If Ulley had been bright and sunny, On one typical day, we woke up to news the popularity of leopard is a must as are a pair of sturdy, on offer, the essential difference jehannuma.com for more information we had to leave our vehicle and continue Rumbak was misty, windswept and of a pair of lynxes chasing a snow leopard spotting is only surpassed by waterproof trekking shoes. being in the accommodation. The or see jehannuma.com.

80 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • MAY 2019 OUTLOOK TRAVELLER • MAY 2019 81