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18 In Your Honor JULY 11, 2004 By Satish Jung Shahi in Pokhara The Gurkha memorial mu- VOL. I, NO. 12 seum has received more visi- COVER PHOTO: Sagar Shrestha tors since it moved from www.nation.com.np Kathmandu to Pokhara 26 Up And Mobile By Yashas Vaidya Doko Dai, a mobile library project, has found a simple but unique solution that will give villagers easier access to books 28 Lost Rites By Sunil Pokhrel Vidyaashram attendance is declining while demand for Purohits is increasing. Saving this essential element in our culture may require big changes in attitudes

BUSINESS PROFILE 32 People First By Shushank Singh COVER STORY A late entrant to the courier and express-delivery market 20 Mending Fences in Nepal, FedEx has now fo- cused on brand promotion and is ex- By John Narayan Parajuli panding its customer base The Deuba government is all set to get new coalition partners but that doesn’t solve its problem: juggling peace talks with the parliamentary elections by ARTS & SOCIETY next April 34 Uttam’s Avataars By Sanjeev Uprety Opinion by Suman Pradhan: Historic Opportunity Uttam Nepali’s main strength lies in his Interviews: Bhim Rawal of CPN(UML) and Chakra Prasad Bastola of NC restless spirit of experimentation 36 Shades Of COLUMNS Laughter By 11 Shooting In 38 It’s Futbol A rockin’ rebel teacher’s story and a genre crossover attempt by an auteur both The Dark By Jenny Maya tickle your funny bone By Pratyoush Onta Kathmandu’s regular nightlife has taken The international com- a break—weekly live band sessions have munity has invested a lot been postponed, dance floors are empty, on capacity building of pool tables have been abandoned, and if DEPARTMENTS Nepal’s media but there you want to find people to hang out with, 6 LETTERS has not been a single head for the nearest TV at the nearest bar 10 PICTURE OF THE WEEK public assessment of this support 14 CAPSULES 40 Middle Class Race 16 BIZ BUZZ 30 Quiet, Please By Sushma Joshi By Samuel Thomas The culture of materialism arrived full- 39 CITY PAGE A moratorium on de- force with the upscale supermarkets 44 KHULA MANCH: velopment talk shows bringing with them the mall culture of 45 BOOKS: IN TIMES OF SIEGE is just as important as a seeing and being seen, the promenade of ceasefire cars, the lines of casually dressed rich 46 LAST WORD people buying tinned eatables

5 Letters

What is the “correlation between establishing peace in Nepal and removing monarchy? ” DIPTA SHAH Emperors of ice cream Ice cream” for that fleeting moment SANJEEV UPRETY’S FIRST-PERSON with our friends. Life’s not all that great account of his time with immigrants in the United States for the struggling from Gadwal while in Rhode Island is immigrant. But he needs to bluff him- brilliant (Re: “Emperor of Ice Cream,” self into believing it is, just like the Arts and Society, June 27). I say this hav- Rawats, Uprety’s roommates. He needs ing lived in New York City for more something to carry on. than 10 years and having interacted with a number of immigrants—Indians, Pa- SURESH HOOMAGAIN kistanis, Iraqis, Mexicans, Afghanis, but NEW YORK CITY mostly with our own Nepalis. It’s the Nepal’s roadmap KIRAN CHALISE RAISES A NUMBER of issues relevant to the state of Nepali politics (Re: “Nepal’s Roadmap,” View- point, June 27). His analysis accurately identifies key deficiencies in the Nepali political arena. Further, his assertion that the lack of credible political repre- sentation has made it incumbent upon “ordinary Nepalis and the world com- munity to ask difficult questions,” leaves no room for disagreement. Although in concurrence with the basic tenets of Chalise’s proposition, I would recommend the re-calibration of the sequence of his proposed roadmap with several pre-qualifying questions. The first and most pressing ques- same old story: we have all escaped (or tion is, given the vulnerable security so we think) the hardship back home situation in Nepal, how much credibil- and are in search for a better tomorrow. ity can one expect a referendum to have Here is a snapshot of a conversation in the eyes of future generations of after a few beers (Budweiser is a favor- Nepalis (or the international commu- ite), when the interaction gets really in- nity for that matter)? If the fundamen- timate—or overpowering, if you neither tal assumption under which referenda have a sense of humor nor are bound by are held entails the ability to voice one’s a sense of kinship. “Spice and Curry can’t opinion in a free and fair manner, then I do without me,” “those Spanish guys at would urge that the establishment of the Sunset Café are lazy and the boss has such an environment be endorsed as a found that,” “my boss has promised to prerequisite to contemplating the no- sponsor me a green card and I can then tion of a referendum. Holding a refer- go home.” Many of us are indeed lonely endum to chastise one institution at the here. But all of us become “Emperors of urging of another has the potential to

6 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly propagate precisely what Chalise warns monarchy voted in as the system of choice, is happening in Nepal—”dealing with that the Maoists will simply lay down their the sideshows” while skirting the real arms and return to the political Nation Weekly, The Media House, Tripureshor, issues. mainstream? I think not. What might one Kathmandu, Nepal (Regd. 113/059-060). Second, I think it is incumbent upon ask, would happen if the opposite Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 all Nepali citizens to take a step back occurred? Would the political forces in EDITOR: Akhilesh Upadhyay [email protected] from the “referendum bandwagon” and Nepal unanimously honor the decision? CONTRIBUTING EDITOR: Suman Pradhan COPY EDITOR: Tiku Gauchan analyze the origins of this debate. As Would the Maoists then disarm and ad- STAFF WRITERS: Sushma Joshi, Satish Jung Shahi with all political maneuvering, timing is here to the people’s will? The answer may PHOTOJOURNALIST: Sagar Shrestha DESIGNER: Raj Kumar Shrestha of critical importance. So, another rel- be “perhaps,” but the follow-up question AD & CIRCULATION DIRECTOR: Krishna Shrestha evant question that should precede those is whether a “perhaps” suffices when lives MARKETING EXECUTIVES: outlined by the columnist is “why is the are on the line. Does a “perhaps” warrant Sarita Gautam and Rameshwor Ghimire [email protected] issue of a republic pertinent at this par- the quest for an outcome? So what then, MARKETING CONSULTANT: Kreepa Shrestha

ticular juncture?” The answer, depend- is the true purpose behind a referendum CREATIVE DIRECTOR: Nripendra Karmacharya ing on one’s political inclination may on a republic in Nepal? SUBSCRIPTION: Bipin Raj Ojha range from criticism of the monarchy’s On the subject of dealing with the real [email protected]

actions in the past 20 months (preceding issues, let’s talk about how to improve PUBLISHER: The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd the re-appointment of Deuba) to a sys- the security situation in our country, AD ENQUIRIES: Tel. 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 tematic denigration of the actions of our how to ensure that corrupt and manipu- COLOR SEPARATION: ScanPro, Pulchowk, 5548861, 5552335 PRINTING: Variety Printing Press, 4278869 politicians for the past 13 years. lative politicians never again lead our DISTRIBUTION: R.B. News, 4232784, 4244679 Determining one’s political orienta- governments, how to help our security Nation Weekly is published every Monday by The Mirror Media Pvt. Ltd. tion, however, is not the aim of this forces improve their human rights All Rights Reserved. The reproduction of the contents of this publication, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the exercise. To quote Chalise, “some fresh, record, how to ensure that our children prior consent of the publisher. alternative, strategic thinking,” is what is are accorded every opportunity to a Vol. I, No. 12. For the week July 5-11, 2004, released on July 5 needed. The point is to engage in critical proper childhood, how to de-politicize analysis and decide for oneself the utility the education sector, how to guarantee CONTACT of maintaining a constitutional monarchy that every Nepali is ensured equal rights www.nation.com.np over establishing a republic. The point is and privileges as mandated by our to think outside of the “walls of political Constitution. Let’s get to the more pe- construct” and evaluate where the drive ripheral issues that are likely to serve the We prefer to receive letters via e-mail, without for a republic originated from, the timing interests of a minority political elite only attachments. Writers should disclose any connection of this drive and to whom the ultimate after each and every single Nepali is fed or relationship with the subject of their comments. All letters must include an address and daytime and benefit of fixation on this debate will at least two healthy meals a day, has run- evening phone numbers. We reserve the right to edit go. The real question is, aside from pos- ning water and electricity and can read, letters for clarity and space. turing on the part of our politicians, what write and think for themselves. How E-mail: [email protected] Fax: 4216281 additional utility does the promulgation does this sound as a roadmap designed Mail: Nation Weekly of a republic provide for our fellow to deal with the real issues? The Media House, GPO 8975, EPC 5620 Nepalis? Then comes the question of Nepal is not an Australia in a time of Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal. what constitutes the real issues for peace, deciding whether or not to retain SUBSCRIPTION Nepal. The very nature of this question is Queen Elizabeth as the officiating head E-mail: [email protected] immensely complex because our prob- of state. The analogy drawn by Chalise Nation Weekly, The Media House, GPO 8975 EPC 5620, Tripureshor, Kathmandu, Nepal lems are as vast and dynamic as the con- between what happened in 1999 in Aus- Tel: 2111102, 4229825, 4261831, 4263098 struct of our nation, the societal/economic tralia and what he proposes is the most Fax: 4216281 stratification of our people and the myriad urgent need of the hour for Nepal, is “solutions” offered by intellectuals. quite simply, flawed. Above all else, the However, I must disagree with Chalise in most urgent need of the hour is to re- saying that as vast as the real issues plagu- main focused on the constraints under ing Nepal may be, the question of a refer- which we have to operate, to keep mat- endum on the fate of the monarchy (at a ters in practical perspective and to move time when the country is virtually in a state forward knowing fully well that we as a of civil war), does not make the first “short nation, are dealing with a crisis that will subscription list” of pressing concerns for the country. take years to resolve. There are dozens If anything, it has immense potential to of real issues and obstacle that lie ahead in [email protected] evolve into a problem itself. After all, what the immediate future for Nepal. Holding is the correlation between establishing a referendum on the relevance of the peace in Nepal and removing the monarchy is not one of them. 2111102 monarchy? Is it a widely held belief that if DIPTA SHAH a referendum is held and constitutional VIA E-MAIL nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 7 POLITICS SPORTS ARTS AND SOCIETY OPINION

Did you, too, O friend, suppose democracy was only for elections, for politics, and for party name? I say democracy is only of use there that it may pass on and come to its flower and fruit in manners, in the highest forms of interaction between people and their beliefs—in religion, literature, colleges and schools—democracy in all public and private life Walt Whitman DEVELOPMENT EDUCATION CIVIL CONFLICT BUSINESS

www.nation.com.np EVERY MONDAY Picture of the Week

YOUNG SINGER AND VETERAN POET: Rastra Kabi Madhav Prasad Ghimire and Prava Bhetwal, 9, teamed up in a new CD, a collection of national songs

nw/Sagar Shrestha Viewpoint Shooting In The Dark

The international community has invested a lot on capacity building of Nepal’s media but there has not been a single public assessment of this support

BY PRATYOUSH ONTA freedom. Hence Dahal could be correct in assuming that lots of money has been given but I suspect that this is not the case. Donors with offices recently read two books that discuss various aspects of the Nepali in Nepal tend to support media-projects with relatively small budgets. media under the state of Emergency (November 2001 to August Unless such support has been secured from sources outside of Nepal, I I would think that the volume of support is not very big. 2002). They are “Sankatkalma Nepali Press” edited by Mahendra Bista (2003) and “Nepali Press During State of Emergency” edited by The third point is related to how the work performed by Nepali orga- Chiranjibi Kafle (2003). Both of these books were published by the nizations ought to be assessed in terms of its quantity, quality and the Federation of Nepalese Journalists (FNJ), the largest elected body of funding support provided. Given general trends, Dahal’s characterization Nepali journalists. that the quantity and quality of work recorded on the theme of press Although the English version is more or less a translation of the freedom is not proportionate to the support received is probably correct Nepali one, it is not an exact translation. From these two books we but we would have to do such an assessment in a case by case basis. learn a lot about the legal means deployed to curtail various freedoms Finally, there is no reason to doubt that the FNJ did not have enough of the media at the beginning of the emergency, of the execution, resources to provide essential services to its members who had become arrest and torture of media people by both state forces and by victims of atrocities during the state of emergency. This requires a discus- insurgents and the protest activities carried out by FNJ to secure, sion about how FNJ has thought about financing its own operation and this among other things, the freedom of its members. However, this is a subject about which not much information has been put out by essay is not a review of these books. Instead it is an exploration of the FNJ in the public domain. But to get back to the main point of this a statement included in the preface to both books by Taranath essay, I think Dahal’s statement points at a more general and pervasive Dahal, President of FNJ. problem regarding assessment of donor support for media in Nepal. It is a He writes, “Many non-government organizations thrived in the name fact that the international community has invested a lot of money in of working for press freedom and the international donor agencies also capacity enhancement of Nepali media training institutions and media backed them. Whereas (sic), the FNJ continued to suffer resource crunch, practitioners in the past several decades. However there has not been a as it was unable even to provide a minimum possible humanitarian single public assessment of this support experience. No one has kept a support to the victims of torture and sup- public record of the types and volumes nw/SS pression during this period. This has sug- of assistance that has been rendered gested the need for strong fund base for to Nepali media practitioners and insti- the FNJ in future.” Dahal does not specify tutions and there is virtually no analysis which NGOs have “thrived in the name of of what kind and volume of assistance working for press freedom” and which of has worked and what has not. Surely, them were backed by donor agencies. there is a plethora of project reports, But it is clear that he thinks (a) there are held in private by the donor agencies many such organizations; (b) these orga- and the project executing Nepali institu- nizations received lots of money from tions. Tacitly it is understood that the donors; (c) the quantity and quality of primary logic of these reports is, in the work these organizations did was some- last instance, to justify that donor funds how not proportionate to the money they were disbursed in an approved manner got; and (d) FNJ did not have enough funds to provide essential support and the work proposed in the mutual contract was accomplished. There is and other services to its members who had become victims of one or a lot of emphasis on the accountability of this kind of assistance but other form of atrocities during the period of emergency. accountability is understood in the sense highlighted by accountants and Let us look at these points one at a time. As a media researcher, I auditors. have sought information about individuals and organizations that have This would have been something to celebrate were it not taking place done work in the field of media freedom. While the number of individuals in the more or less complete absence of accountability understood as who have written short articles about this theme in newspapers or maga- (a) honesty and integrity of the application of both intellect and effort on zines is large—I would refer readers to the appropriate listing in Nepali the work at hand; and (b) a public policy debate in which the costs and Media Bibliography (2003, Martin Chautari)—the number of organiza- benefits of alternate support mechanisms are discussed comparatively. tions that have worked on this theme is quite small. In fact, I can not Donor support for Nepali media is necessary but so is a mechanism that think of even five such Nepali organizations. evaluates the kind and quality of such support publicly. Second, no information is available in the public domain regarding (Associated with Martin Chautari, Onta has edited/co-edited seven books on the volume of donor support for Nepali organizations working on press Nepali media) nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 11

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Government probe arms were carried along for The government has formed security reasons. The police a five-member team to inves- handed them to the Indian tigate the alleged disappear- Embassy. ances from the government custody. Amnesty Interna- Tariff increase tional documented more than The Drinking Water Supply 150 cases of such “disappear- Corporation is all set to in- ances” in 2003, starting with crease the tariff for drinking the breakdown of ceasefire in water. According to Kantipur, August, and in the following the tariff will go up by as four months. The relatives of much as 15 percent within a the alleged abductees called month. The newspaper off their hunger strike in quotes a high-level source as Kathmandu last week after saying that the tariff would go ASADH PANDRA: Farmers mark the begining of the rice-planting season the government announced up by a further 35 percent in the formation of the probe the near future. The tariff in- said that TU has been expand- Arrangements have been team. The protesters were creases come in line with the ing into new technical areas made to deport the detain- demanding that the where- conditions set by the donors and the Ministry of Education ees. abouts of their disappeared who are funding the was unable to keep up with the kin be made public. The Melamchi Project. They have rapid changes. He proposed to French concern probe team is headed by asked for a significant revi- hand over the campuses affili- The French Embassy ex- Narayan Gopal Malego, joint sion of the overall tariff struc- ated to TU to other universi- pressed concern over the de- secretary at the Home Min- ture by next January. The ties. The university has 278 lay in the trial of Charles istry, and is to submit its find- Asian Development Bank, campuses with over 210,000 Sobhraj, a French national. ings within 30 days. one of the major financiers of students. Sobhraj was arrested nine the Melamchi project, wants months ago in Thamel. He Armed Indians the water supply in the Valley Illegal Nepalis has been in the Central Jail The Thankot police arrested to be privatized before con- The Australian immigrant au- awaiting a court verdict six armed Indians entering struction works begin on the thorities have detained at least since. The embassy wrote to Kathmandu. Three of them 25.6-km tunnel of Melamchi. three illegal Nepali immi- the Nepali authorities via the were identified as members grants. This came after a se- consular section of Ministry of Reserve Police Line, Uttar Separate ministry ries of raids on more than a of Foreign Affairs. The final Pradesh. The vehicle carry- Tribhuvan University (TU) dozen locations in Sydney, hearing of the Sobhraj case ing them had a flag of the has proposed a separate min- Kantipuronline reported. is slated for July 5. Sobhraj is Samajbadi Party. The Indians istry to cover technical edu- Twenty-seven illegal immi- accused of killing American said they were on the way to cation. The Vice Chancellor, grants from various countries Connie Jo Bronish and Ca- visit Pashupatinath and the Prof. Govind Prasad Sharma, were detained in the raids. nadian Laurent Ormond Carrierre in 1975 when he came into Nepal as Henricus RNA chief Bintanja, a Dutch national.

rmy Chief Pyar Jung sponse also said that the Army Women’s crusade AThapa has ordered did not have K.C. in its cus- A women’s group in Army barracks to fol- tody. Attorney General Sushil Malekhu VDC, Dhading, low the Supreme Court’s re- Pant told Nation Weekly that have successfully banned cent order. Thapa’s reply to the Army-Supreme Court rift drinking and gambling in the the Court states that the se- had been blown out of pro- village. The president of the curity forces were commit- portions by the media. Pant group, Kamala Ghale, says ted to honoring human said the media had presented that the men are now en- rights, international humani- remarks made by the Army gaged in more productive tarian laws and Supreme chief without putting it in activities. The group re- Court orders. The apex court context, deliberately leaving ceived support from a local had also ordered the Army to out Thapa’s pledges to follow NGO, Self-Help Group. disclose the whereabouts of the court’s order. “The Army Taking a cue from the initia- Kamal K.C., an alleged Maoist, recognizes the supremacy of tive, a number of neighbor- arrested three months ago. the Supreme Court,” Pant ing villages are now follow- The Army Chief’s written re- said. ing suit.

14 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly Amnesty appeal pressed its solidarity with nw/SS and Ishwori Kumar Shrestha Amnesty International, in an Chaudhary and his col- of Sindhupalchowk. Accord- open letter to the Maoist leagues and has asked the ing to Kantipur, the two supremo Prachanda, con- Maoists to respect human were arrested a year ago in demned continuing attacks rights and to abide by inter- Khasa with 29.9 kilograms of on civilians by the Maoists. national humanitarian stan- contraband but the paper did The human rights group also dards. not reveal what the drugs expressed its concern at the were. Raywat Kumar Dahal reported torture of civilians Tatopani blockade of Bhadrapur, Jhapa was by the Maoists and the im- Maoists ended an indefinite handed a 15-year sentence. pact of their activities on chil- blockade imposed at the The three have decided to dren in particular. Amnesty Tatopani border between appeal the verdict. also asked the Army to come Nepal and China. The clean about people they have Maoists, who had issued an Circus ruckus in their custody. It asked the order to the business com- Twelve children from The Army to make public the munity not to pay custom Great Roman Circus in whereabouts of Raj Kumar duties, imposed the blockade Karnailganj, Gonda, have re- Mandal, Dharma Narayan three weeks ago. The block- OLYMPIAN SMILE: Taekwondo star turned to Nepal. They were Maharjan, Aasha Narayan ade was called off after the Sangina Baidhya was named ‘Player of rescued from the circus with the Year’ by Nepal Sports Journalists’ Maharjan and Nati Shrestha, business community asked Forum the assistance of the local au- who were reportedly ar- for its repeal. Tatopani is the of Birgunj, was shot dead last thorities. Another eight girls rested by the security per- main transit point on Nepal- year. Punaram Pokharel, the were brought back to Gonda sonnel between May 26 and China border. mayor of Butwal, had a close from Orissa by the circus June 28. shave; he lost his eye in the owners. The police will take Sheriff shot Maoist attack. All of the three custody of the girls and hand Bomb in BASE Maoists assassinated Harka mayors were members of the them over to their parents as Maoists detonated a power- Bahadur Gurung, mayor of RPP. directed by the Lucknow ful bomb at the offices of the Pokhara, who had refused to High Court. A number of Backward Society Educa- give in to the Maoist call to On deathrow Nepali girls had gone missing tion (BASE) in Dhangadi. step down. The mayor’s The Chinese government after a botched rescue attempt They also threatened to kill driver and his bodyguard sentenced two Nepalis to in Karnailganj on June 15. The Dilli Chaudhary, who heads were airlifted for treatment death in Tibet and handed a rescue attempt turned violent BASE. The organization is in Kathmandu. There have prison sentence to a third when the circus owners and noted for its successful cam- been numerous attacks on one. All were charged with their henchmen attacked the paign to end bonded labor. heads of local bodies ap- drug trafficking. The two activists and Nepali parents No casualties were reported pointed by the Thapa gov- Nepalis sentenced to death who had raided the circus to but the BASE office was se- ernment. Gopal Giri, mayor are Ravi Dahal of Morang free the children. verely damaged. BASE has nw/SS continued to promote social nw/SS justice for Nepal’s marginalized populations through education and in- come-generating initiatives. Chaudhary and BASE are caught in the crossfire be- tween demands of the Maoists for food, shelter, money and support, and the retaliation they face from the government for harbor- ing Maoists, Forefront said in a statement. Forefront is an international organization of grassroot human rights workers. Chaudhary has cat- egorically refused to endorse and support the Maoist’s cause. Forefront has ex- MONSOON BLUES: A stadium attendant drains out the rainwater clogging the football field at Dashrath Stadium nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 15 Biz Buzz nw/SS NIIT’S NEW PROGRAM and can reach 96 kmph in 15.1 sec- NIIT launched its new GNIIT program, an “in- onds. The Picanto is marketed as being dustry-endorsed” multiple-track curriculum ideal for both city roads and wide open for IT career aspir- highways. The new model is available in ants. The newly nine vibrant colors with three seat colors launched GNIIT to go along with the exterior. program has been “co-de- BELL 407 TRIALS signed” with the Bell Helicopter Textron concluded its high IT and IT En- altitude trials of the single turbine engine abled Service helicopter, the Bell 407. During the trials (ITES) industries. in and around Mustang district, the 407 flew Trust for Nature Conservation. During the course With this curriculum, NIIT hopes to provide to well above 20,000 feet. There are over 600 of the project, renovation of the Entrance Plaza its students the IT-related skills that are cur- Bell helicopters operating in nearly 50 coun- and Asiatic Lion’s Enclosure, and construction rently demanded by the market and fulfill tries. These trials represented the first appear- of the Siamang Gibbon Enclosure took place. emerging manpower needs in the IT sector. ance of the Bell 407 in Nepal. It is hoped the The handing over of the project took place at a The program has 4 specialization tracks built 407 will help promote Nepal as an adventure function in the Central Zoo presided over by upon a common foundation. The 4 special- tourism destination and boost the Nepali tour- Minister of Physical Planning & Works Prakash ization tracks are: Software Engineering, Sys- ism industry. AVCO International Pvt. Ltd., the Man Singh. The project started in May 2003 tems Engineering & Networking, Information exclusive independent representative for Bell and was completed on 12 November in the Systems Management and Business Process Helicopter in Nepal, was the authorized han- same year. A total contribution of Rs. Management. After the first semester, the per- dling agency for the trials. 4,497,193 was made by the organizations. formance and specific strengths of the stu- This has been the largest donation to the zoo dents will be used to determine their special- from the private sector. ization track. The GNIIT career program offers one year training through its Professional Prac- KYMCO ZING 150 tice (PP) module. This module which takes Star International Limited launched the Zing place in the final year of the three-year pro- 150 motorcycle manufactured by the Taiwan- gram puts students in various organizations ese company, Kymco. With a displacement of to gain a year’s work experience, for which 149cc and a maximum output of 12bhp, the they are remunerated by the organizations. Zing 150 gives a mileage of around 40 kilo- Since its introduction, nearly 75,000 stu- meters per liter. It is available in four different dents have gone through the Professional colors; Red, Black, Silver and Blue. The Zing Practice module of the GNIIT program. 150 has both air and oil cooling system. Added CENTRAL ZOO PROJECT features include disk brakes and electric start. NEW KIA MODEL Representatives from Toyota Motor Corpora- The motorcycle comes with a two-year war- Continental Trading, the exclusive dealer for Kia tion (Japan), Toyota Motor Corporation (Delhi), ranty. Motors in Nepal, launched the Picanto, Kia’s Toyota Tsusho Corporation and Mr. Suraj new car model. The Picanto has a 64 bhp Vaidya, President of Vaidya’s Organization of RIN TIN INSTANT NOODLES engine with a displacement of a 1086cc. It Industries and Trading Houses, handed over a Chaudhary Group launched the new, 75g in- has a maximum speed of 150 km per hour project at the Central Zoo to the King Mahendra stant Rin Tin noodles. The launch has come after the success of the 50g Rin Tin snack noodles says the company. It is targeting chil- dren as potential consumers for its new prod- uct. The brand character, Rin Tin, is a village boy. The company hopes that the Rin Tin boy, characterized as an adventurous and fun loving kid will appeal to the younger generation. Rin Tin 75g instant noodles is available at a price of Rs.10.

16 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly Dhondup Khangsar Handicraft Center

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Tridevi Marg, Thamel, Opp. of Sanchayakosh building Tel: 4416483, 4417295 E-mail: [email protected] nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 17 Gurkhas IN YOUR HONOR “There was once this old and retired British army corporal and his wife who burst into tears after they came here. It held a lot of meaning for them. We hope this place could attract more young people to get in touch with the living history of the Gurkhas.”

– HASTA BAHADUR NEPALI, guide and guard at the Gurkha Memorial Museum

BY SATISH JUNG SHAHI IN POKHARA s you head towards Damside from ALakeside’s tourist sprawl, on the left inside the compound of Ho- tel Nature Land stand four tin-roofed rooms. This simple building is the home of the museum honoring Nepal’s famous Gurkha soldiers. The Gurkha Memorial Museum moved from Kathmandu to Pokhara, hometown of many Gurkhas, in Octo- ber 2001. Since then the museum has received more visitors, enough at least to pay the Rs. 6,000 monthly rent. How- ever, a bigger, well-equipped museum building is needed to house new contri- butions of material and to meet visitors’ demand for much better space. A new facility is also necessary in order to pre- serve properly the memorabilia that range from military uniforms worn by Victoria Cross holders, medals and badges to weapons to books on the Gurkhas and communication equipment used during war. “This space is already too small,” says former British Army Captain Lal Bahadur Rana, who manages the museum on behalf of the Gurkha Memorial Trust. The trust started the museum in 1995 to preserve Gurkha history after King Birendra gave audience to seven living

18 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly Gurkha Victoria Cross winners. The that helped in logistics during wartime, Victoria Cross is Britain’s highest award the military medals and Victoria Cross for military gallantry. winners. Some of the prized possessions The museum exhibits items from the include a life-size replica of the Queen’s British, Indian and Nepal armies and is Truncheon, the Victoria Cross, the VC managed by the trust’s 11-member ex- Champagne issued in honor of the ecutive committee and advisors from all Gurkha VC winners, a heliograph used three armies. “The Gurkhas are, after all, for sending signals on war fields and a part of all three armies, including the tall radio set used by British Gurkhas in Singapore Police,” adds Capt. Rana. His- Nepal to communicate between Lon- tories record that the British forces don and Kathmandu. formed a separate company of Gurkha The museum’s relocation to Pokhara soldiers around 1767 after they were came, as Captain Rana puts it, because impressed by their bravery during battles the marketing of the location in with Britain’s East India Company. Kathmandu went very wrong, and few In the 20th century, Gurkha soldiers visitors came. But even though that the were part of Britain’s military campaigns number of visitors has gone up with the in the World Wars as well as in Malaya, museum’s new address, the trust’s re- Borneo, Cyprus, the Falklands, Hong quest for a much better premise in Kong and the Gulf War. Over 3,000 Pokhara has not gained much momen- Gurkha soldiers are still serving in the tum. “We sent a proposal to the Tourism British Gurkha Army. The force has been Ministry during the tenure of the Chand consolidated into one regiment, the government to allow us to co-locate with Royal Gurkha Rifles, since the handover the Western Region Museum in Naya of Hong Kong to China. Bazaar in the heart of Pokhara,” says Most of the museum’s exhibits have Capt. Rana. “We still do not know what come from the surplus collec- is happening due to the po- tion of a similar Gurkha Mu- litical instability.” The trust seum in London and from in- is now planning to build its dividual contributions made own two-story building at by former army men. The four Deep, in front of the British rooms in the present space are Gurkha Camp in Pokhara, dedicated to the Gurkha regi- and shift the museum there ments, core Gurkha regiments while they wait for the such as signals and transport ministry’s decision. All Photos: Rubina Dewan

nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 19 Cover Story

20 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly The Deuba government is all set to get new coalition partners but that doesn’t solve its problem: juggling peace talks with the parliamentary elections by next April

BY JOHN NARAYAN PARAJULI uphill task. And that for a number of reasons. fter keeping a lonely vigil If the four agitating parties, notably for a month, Prime Minis- the Nepali Congress, continue to cry ter Sher Bahadur Deuba foul over the UML departure from the Aeventually appears set to five-party alliance, the Deuba govern- fulfill a key responsibility ment will not even get to see a custom- the King entrusted in him: form an all- ary honeymoon phase after the Cabinet party government. While this will cer- expansion. But it remains to be seen tainly give his beleaguered government whether the agitating parties will be able some respite, the prime minister still to hold their fort together, a rare feat in has some way to go before he gets any- Nepali politics, where alliances are born where close to the second responsibil- or broken more out of expediency than ity of holding parliamentary elections ideology. by next April. And it will be a tough job Leaders of the new alliance however juggling one unstated responsibility: fit- have been trying hard to underscore one ting in the peace talks and brokering a point: the four-party agitation has lost permanent ceasefire with the Maoists its relevance after Deuba’s re-appoint- in between. ment as prime minister and return of the “Who are they trying to hoodwink?” executive powers to the ruling Cabi- says a Nepali Congress central com- net—exemplified, according to Deuba mittee member, referring to the coali- and his new coalition partner UML, in tion-in-making and recent pronounce- the form of the defunct Work Perfor- ments by UML and NC(D) leaders that mance Regulation. the four-party (RPP and NSP are the “Just because an alliance is com-

wSgr Shrestha nw/Sagar other two parties) government has posed, other alliances do not become higher chances of doing what two pre- irrelevant overnight,” says Chakra Prasad vious governments, headed by Bastola, former foreign minister and Lokendra Bahadur Chand and Surya central committee member of the Nepali Bahadur Thapa, failed to do: strike a Congress, defending the legitimacy of lasting peace deal with the Maoists. But the four-party alliance. Bastola dismisses even Deuba’s ardent supporters admit any suggestions of his party joining the that a permanent peace is going to be an government. nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 21 Cover Story ‘We Can’t Be Held Hostage To Indecision’

We have put forward a nine-point ments made to the regulation for portunity to resolve the present

nw/SS agenda and we are discussing it the functioning of the cabinet has crisis. Our decision to join the gov- with NC(D). However, we have kept been corrected. This exemplifies ernment demonstrates that we are other options open. It depends on both the partial achievement of the ready to work together with Prime how Maoists opt for crisis resolu- democratic movement and the Minister Deuba. Moreover, he has tion. CPN(UML) is prepared to dis- partial correction of the regres- realized his past mistakes and we play maximum flexibility. sion. should definitely give him the ben- efit of doubt. What implications will UML’s ab- UML seems to have drawn les- sence from the five-party alli- sons from Indian coalition poli- Does Prime Minister Deuba have ance have on the political land- tics, but is bickering for minis- what it takes to lead a divided scape? terial berths the right way to nation? Right through the agitation, we held kick-start a new coalition? Prime Minister Deuba has an op- it that parties should offer viable In coalitions, issues of power shar- portunity to restore normalcy in the fter Sher Bahadur Deuba’s alternatives and behave respon- ing arise naturally but our priority country. If the Maoists opt for dia- Aappointment as prime sibly. Other parties remained in- is to stick to Common Minimum logue, the government should minister, CPN (UML) decisive and they would neither Program (CMP). So long as we come forward with maximum flex- quickly supported his appointment accept our proposal to bail the have that, the question of who ibility even if that means seeking as “partial correction of regres- country out from the stalemate nor gets what becomes secondary. any sort of fresh mandate from sion,” indicating that it could join come up with their own proposal. Having said that, we have felt that the people and accepting UN me- the Deuba government. Bhim Now, we believe that if the Deuba the proportional representation in diation. Rawal, a UML Central Committee government can bring in other par- the government must be on the Member, told John Narayan ties, it will facilitate resolution of basis of seats in the dissolved But Prime Minister Deuba has Parajuli of Nation Weekly his the current crisis. House. already said he doesn’t want UN party’s decision to join the gov- mediation? ernment (which looked a clear What do you mean by “partial Why such a delay in joining the I am not aware of any such state- possibility when we went to press) correction of regression”? government? You think Prime ments by the prime minister. But was based on a simple rationale, Doesn’t it sound like another Minister Deuba is not a reliable as far as my understanding goes, “UML believes the country cannot political word game? partner? all of us remain open to neces- be held hostage to indecision.” Disgracefully dismissed, elected It is quite natural that the ground- sary national and international Prime Minister Deuba has been work would take some time. We cooperation to resolve the Maoist Prime Minister Deuba has pri- reappointed and the King has ex- wanted to make fundamentals of problem. When we speak of inter- oritized parliamentary elections; pressly accepted the people’s the coalition government clear, tak- national cooperation, UN naturally does this sit well with UML? sovereignty. Previous amend- ing the new government as an op- comes at the top.

Deuba’s aides however say the prime problem with utmost flexibility and get- base; and there are the likes of Bijaya minister wants to keep some ministe- ting grips on security. Gachhedar and Chiranjibi Wagle, rial berths free for the possible entry of Even without those long-term and tainted by charges of corruption, but the Nepali Congress. Famous for walk- ambitious goals, Deuba has had a with a comparatively larger following. ing an extra mile to appease irate mem- handful in allocating ministerial And there are some serious prob- bers from outside his party, Deuba can berths. The plump portfolios have al- lems outside his party. be very tenacious as history proves. In ready been either promised to the UML General Secretary Madhav the mid-90s, he presided over an ugly UML, or have been already allocated Kumar Nepal has already decried era of coalition politics, which ulti- to NC(D) functionaries like Prakash Deuba’s prioritizing parliamentary mately reduced governance to a single Man Singh and Bimalendra Nidhi. elections as the government’s main mantra: survival at any cost. This time While the leaders publicly insist that agenda. “Restoring peace must be the around, Deuba has promised more dig- power-sharing has never been a prob- first priority,” Bhim Rawal of the UML nified governance. lem between them, few Nepalis be- told Nation Weekly. “We want the gov- Last week, four parties—UML, NSP, lieve their claim. ernment to display maximum flexibil- RPP and NC (D)—agreed on the com- Within his own party, Deuba has ity even if that means accepting UN mon minimum program for governance. some juggling to do. There are such mediation for establishing peace. Our The document, among other things, un- young Turks like Minendra Rijal and party is even prepared to go to the con- derlined the commitment to protect Prakash Sharan Mahat, clean and in- stituent assembly if a consensus can be democracy, approaching the Maoist telligent but without a proven popular reached with other parties.” But Deuba

22 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly seems reluctant to publicly commit to nw/SS either. Surprisingly, UML has stood stead- fast in its defense of Deuba’s appointment, a rare display of solidarity, despite Deuba’s continued calls for elections. “If elections can be held in Kashmir, they can be held here” has become Deuba’s new refrain. But can peace be established with- out the government displaying flexibil- ity to go for constituent assembly? And can there be elections without peace? “No,” says Padma Ratna Tuladhar, a leftist intellectual and human rights ac- tivist. “The Maoists will settle for noth- DARK FUTURE: After SLC, Damber Khadka (above) has nowhere to go SUSPECT: Chandra Prasad Prasai was in possession of arms ing less than a constituent assembly, or unless the government comes up with something as democratic.” Maoists have not given up their demand for constitu- Tuladhar, a facilitator during the ment is prepared to offer what ent assembly, he says, recalling his re- last peace talks, says, “There is no Maoists ask for, or at least comes up cent telephone conversation with the point facilitating another round of with a viable alternative, peace can Maoist supremo, Prachanda. futile peace talks, but if the govern- be brokered.” ‘NC Hasn’t Opted For Constituent Assembly’

With UML all set to join the gov- sembly. But they have not spelt efficient, however alert the gov- nw/SS ernment, has the agitation of out clearly what it means. ernment might be, it cannot per- the four-party alliance lost its form magic given the scant re- relevance? Do you see republicanism com- sources. Well, this is a very tricky question. ing up as a viable option in near Just because an alliance is com- future? Deuba says elections are his top posed, other alliances do not be- I have been on record saying that priority. Is the ceasefire with the come irrelevant overnight. The time has not arrived for that sort of Maoists a prerequisite to hold- present alliance that is composed system in this country. But we can’t ing the elections? to form the government has a lot completely rule out the possibility. Not only is ceasefire a prerequi- of issues to deal with and an uphill We as political parties, as leaders site for an election, we need to task. We have witnessed dishar- with experience in multiparty de- have a situation where people can mony among the partners even mocracy, however doubt if there is go to the booths without fear, ex- before they could announce the a party or an individual who could ercising their franchise without fear government. shoulder the burden of the presi- and vote for any party they like epali congress (NC) has dency. without fear of life and property. Nbeen against Sher Nepali Congress is divided itself. And that’s not only for certain Bahadur Deuba’s ap- There appears to be a difference What will be the position of the hours but for a prolonged period. pointment as the prime minister. of opinion inside your party re- NC, if the new government ini- In order to have meaningful elec- It believes that Deuba’s reinstate- garding its position on the issue tiates dialogue with the tions this sort of situation is a pre- ment doesn’t undo regression and of constituent assembly... Maoists? requisite. that the King continues to hold That’s not the case at all. Opin- It is not a question of either this executive powers in the absence ions could differ. Nepali Congress or that position. The beauty of UML leaders say they are open of an elected parliament. Chakra (NC) has not opted for a constitu- multiparty democracy is that the to UN meditation, just as the Prasad Bastola, former foreign ent assembly, as people generally role of any particular party Maoists are demanding. What minister and member of the tend to think. Nepali Congress has doesn’t come to an end abruptly. is NC’s position? party’s central committee, told agreed to discuss the issue of con- Any party that comes to power We have not taken any decision Nation Weekly why the four-party stituent assembly with anyone for a certain number of years officially. But my own opinion is that agitation has lost none of its po- outside the party. People (many suffers the pangs of incumbency. we are not averse to third party litical significance—UML or no others outside the party) have just It is bound to be unpopular in mediation. Yes, but involvement, UML. said let’s go for a constituent as- the eyes of the people. However we don’t want. nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 23

Cover Story

OPINION We don’t know yet where the UML and RPP’s concerns which is country will move from here, reflected in the Common Mini- whether or not the aspirations of mum Program. He is also actively Historic Opportunity the people will be addressed. The courting the NC to participate in present situation could degener- the government. ate into infighting between the It is a stretch of the imagina- The fact that some major parties have come around to sup- coalition allies, or it could widen tion to think that Koirala will sud- port Deuba after initial hiccups is a positive sign the small window of opportunity denly drop all his opposition and for a peace process. join the government. That won’t If Deuba, the UML and RPP happen, but he and his allies BY SUMAN PRADHAN situation. Who is to rein in the play their hands right, and if the should also not be made to feel Deuba government if it runs Palace controls its urges, there is bitter and out of the loop. What t’s been more than a month amok? no reason why the government Deuba and they both need to un- since King Gyanendra hand- Just as well, the fact that some cannot begin to address the larger derstand is that the NC and its al- I major parties have come around issues raised by the Maoist con- lies can have their differences with picked Sher Bahadur Deuba to run the country. And in that time, the to support Deuba after initial hic- flict and political polarization. The the government but can still work nation as a whole has gone through cups is a positive sign. The even- only fear now is that the NC and together on the areas they agree

nw/SS on. They need not participate in the government to participate in the peace process. The same logic should go into dealing with the Palace and the Army. The Palace has legitimate concerns about an eventual peace process. Issues about constitu- tional revisions, the nature of a new state, etc., concerns the Palace just as it does the common citizen. These concerns should clearly be stated to the government which, in turn, should address it as far as practicable. The onus lies on the government to allay the Palace’s fears. But most importantly, the Palace also has some responsibili- ties. It should not open its own com- munication channel to the various players in the conflict. It has to let the government do its bidding. In some wrenching changes. Some tual inclusion of the UML and RPP its allies, who have stayed out of other words, it should let the gov- major political parties, the CPN(UML) in the government will, despite power by choice, could throw up ernment be a true government. and RPP, are coming around to coa- what the NC says, provide it with a some road-blocks in an already- That’s what constitutional monar- lesce around Deuba to lend his gov- broader base that could translate fragile process. chy and democracy is all about. ernment a pluralistic flavor. The into some sort of political legitimacy. For this reason, the Deuba In some ways, the situation Nepali Congress and its smaller al- The Maoists don’t seem happy government has to be careful in presents a historic opportunity for lies are still opposed, arguing that “re- with this coming together of vari- dealing with the opposition. The both the political parties and the gression” is still alive and kicking. ous political forces at the center, days of bulldozing opponents, as Palace to mute the criticisms Whom to believe? but they will have no choice other Girija Prasad Koirala did in the early they have faced for much of the Both have a point. The man- than to deal with it if the govern- 1990s and Deuba copied in past few years. The parties must ner in which Deuba was appointed ment gains legitimacy. 1996, are clearly over. The prob- show that they don’t always lends credence to accusations by Most Nepalis though are not lems we face today manifests from bicker. They can, if they so the NC and its allies. The King af- hair-splitting over all this at the mo- opinions not being heard and com- choose, transcend traditional ter all used the same constitu- ment. After eight years of violence promises not being made in those power politics for the greater na- tional provision to appoint and and mayhem, and nearly two years early days of democracy. tional good. The Palace could empower Deuba as he did with of instability and protests, all they So far, the way Deuba has follow suit by showing that doubts his predecessors. That there is still want is peace. They want to get on been doing things indicates he un- about its democratic credentials no parliament and no elected bod- with their lives without fear of the derstands all this. He has gone out are a thing of the past. ies adds to the complexity of the Maoists or government forces. of his way to accommodate the [email protected] nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 25 Innovation UP AND MOBILE Doko Dai, a mobile library project, has found a simple but unique solution that will give villagers easier ac- cess to books

BY YASHAS VAIDYA

here is a stack of books in two Trooms in Anamnagar occupied by the Doko Dai project that keeps piling higher every week. As new books pour in, volunteers enter the details of the books into registers. Soon the books will start heading out to their final des- tinations in Barabise and Mahendranagar where they will even- tually end up in the hands of village chil- dren and elders. Doko Dai is a mobile library project undertaken by the Na- tionwide Scholarship Program, SEBS (the alumni body of Budanilkantha School’s students) and Development Project Service Centre. The project is funded by the World Bank. A regular visitor to these rooms is Priyadarshaini Joshi, one of the origi- nal project writers. “I just came back from a field trip to Barabise to monitor of a Land Rover traveling over difficult which will be permanent libraries. the project implementation,” she says. terrain. Other key components of the project are “It will be hard getting the books to the The Doko dais and didis will start the use of the RCC as a resource center people. The steep hills in the area make out from the regional headquarters of the and a scholarship program for bright and it quite difficult to get anything to the project and travel through one of the 10 needy students (incorporated with the villagers. That is why we will be using routes laid out at each project site. All NSP scholarship program). Doko dais and didis, local porters, to routes will be in operation at the same The books range from simple illus- transport our books. Our project was time. The porters will lay down their trative English books for school children written keeping in mind the challenges dokos at certain stops along the route. and agricultural books to benefit the of mobility presented by such terrain.” For about a week, the stop will be con- farmers to religious books for the eld- The goal—to provide 30,000 villag- verted into a mobile library where erly and books on philosophy. “We are ers from the villages surrounding people can come to read and borrow constantly taking feedback from the Barabise and Mahendranagar with books books, newspapers, magazines and the community. We ask them what kind of and other reading materials—looks fea- like. The stops selected are easily acces- books they want and try and get those sible because by using porters, the Doko sible, usually schools, bazaars, chautaris books for our library,” says Bijaya Dai project has found a unique solution and even teashops. Books will be Shiwakoti, NSP Secretary. for transporting books in Nepal. The changed on a near monthly basis after Nepal’s literacy rate currently stands doko, which is used traditionally to carry the porters traverse the route once. The at 45.2 percent. A lot needs to be done in everything from cattle fodder to sick two sites selected for the project will the education sector and Joshi knows that people, will be used to carry books. The also have a Regional Community Cen- only too well. “There are not enough Doko dai will be the Nepali equivalent ter (RCC), the regional headquarters, educational resources like libraries out-

26 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly All Photos: Doko Dai nw/SS

side the capital. People talk about the But keeping such projects sustainable funded the project. World Bank sorry state of the education sector in our has been a difficult task as many have found projects have routinely come under country. But only when you go outside out in developing countries the world over. criticism for being environmentally the capital, do you see how bad the situ- Maybe that’s why Doko Dai has taken destructive, socially disruptive and its ation really is,” she says. pains to highlight the “sustainability” loans have been blamed for putting The project sounds good enough on theme. (The complete name of the project Third World countries under moun- paper, but will it really work? To find is Sustainable Doko Dai Mobile Library tainous debt burdens. out, these ideas will be put into practice Project.) The project grants will stop after Criticisms of the World Bank aside, in pilot routes—one each at Barabise and January 2005. Funds will not be sought the Doko Dai project has serious im- Mahendranagar next month onwards. from outside after that. The initial grant plications on its own. If it succeeds, “We have tried to benefit the whole com- money is being used to build infrastruc- then it could become a model for other munity by addressing as many issues as ture and put a self-sustaining system in sustainable projects in the country. Its we could,” says Rabindra Maharjan, the place. The idea is to use the RCCs to gen- success would also be a shot in the arm Program Coordinator of NSP. “We try erate income. The RCCs will be equipped for people who do want to do some- and remain in touch with the commu- with computers, photocopiers, internet thing in the education sector. That’s a nity members and incorporate their sug- services and the like. There is also a com- tough precedent to set but Joshi is op- gestions in our project. We are open to munity hall that can be rented out. Nomi- timistic. She says, “There have been modifications and changes.” When asked nal fees will be charged for these services numerous challenges in the process, if the project was more like an experi- to sustain the project. but we’ve dealt with them. We only ment he responds, “An experiment, Sustainability also seems to be a key hope we can be of help to the villag- maybe, but it’s been well thought out.” issue for the World Bank which has ers.” nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 27 All Photos: Doko Dai nw/SS

side the capital. People talk about the But keeping such projects sustainable funded the project. World Bank sorry state of the education sector in our has been a difficult task as many have found projects have routinely come under country. But only when you go outside out in developing countries the world over. criticism for being environmentally the capital, do you see how bad the situ- Maybe that’s why Doko Dai has taken destructive, socially disruptive and its ation really is,” she says. pains to highlight the “sustainability” loans have been blamed for putting The project sounds good enough on theme. (The complete name of the project Third World countries under moun- paper, but will it really work? To find is Sustainable Doko Dai Mobile Library tainous debt burdens. out, these ideas will be put into practice Project.) The project grants will stop after Criticisms of the World Bank aside, in pilot routes—one each at Barabise and January 2005. Funds will not be sought the Doko Dai project has serious im- Mahendranagar next month onwards. from outside after that. The initial grant plications on its own. If it succeeds, “We have tried to benefit the whole com- money is being used to build infrastruc- then it could become a model for other munity by addressing as many issues as ture and put a self-sustaining system in sustainable projects in the country. Its we could,” says Rabindra Maharjan, the place. The idea is to use the RCCs to gen- success would also be a shot in the arm Program Coordinator of NSP. “We try erate income. The RCCs will be equipped for people who do want to do some- and remain in touch with the commu- with computers, photocopiers, internet thing in the education sector. That’s a nity members and incorporate their sug- services and the like. There is also a com- tough precedent to set but Joshi is op- gestions in our project. We are open to munity hall that can be rented out. Nomi- timistic. She says, “There have been modifications and changes.” When asked nal fees will be charged for these services numerous challenges in the process, if the project was more like an experi- to sustain the project. but we’ve dealt with them. We only ment he responds, “An experiment, Sustainability also seems to be a key hope we can be of help to the villag- maybe, but it’s been well thought out.” issue for the World Bank which has ers.” nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 27 Culture

patient about the scarcity of Purohits. Demand is on rise, but the younger gen- eration of Purohit families are not at- LOST RITES tracted to the career. “Our society doesn’t value a Purohit,” Nepal says. The way people stare at him while coming to and from school and Vidyaashram attendance is declining while demand for inhis Daura Suruwal, the school uni- form, makes him uncomfortable. He gets Purohits is increasing. Saving this essential element in angry too when people call him Bahun our culture may require big changes in attitudes bajhe. Purohits believe that the traditional financial arrangements are an important BY SUNIL POKHREL students studying Sanskrit. They also part of the problem. Unlike other ser- learn how to conduct different rituals, vice-oriented professions, Purohits atish Nepal, a seventh-grader at starting from pujas in fourth grade to don’t have fixed rates for services. They Nepal Ved Vidyaashram in marriage and last rites in tenth grade. traditionally depend on the mercy of S Surprisingly, there is no rush for ad- Gaushala, doesn’t want to be a their Jajamans and take whatever is of- Purohit. His schoolmate Ganesh mission, even though the education is fered, even if they are unsatisfied. Sapkota, a six-grader, joined the free. Govinda Khatiwada from Charikot vidyaashram at the insistence of his fa- Traditional practitioners are either works at Pashupati. He has felt cheated ther. Sapkota prefers English to San- leaving the profession or taking it as a many times. He fumes, “Is it fair to give skrit, but he can’t study English at the part-time job, and Jajamans around the Rs. 5 for a shradha, which takes at least school. Nepal Ved Vidyaashram has 165 Kathmandu Valley are increasingly im- one hour?”

28 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly nw/SS

dits. Many have come from other dis- The Purohit’s rituals are an essential tricts due to the conflict. As a result, part of the Hindu tradition. Rituals be- Pundits from Kathmandu Valley are be- gin even before a child is born. coming less common and the competi- Garbhadana (conception) is the fervent tion is very high. prayer for a child. This is done in order Rishi Ram Sharma, a retired govern- to fulfill the parental duties to continue ment servant, took up the job only after the race. Rituals continue in many forms retirement. His two sons are farmers: they until death and even after. Each time a are not interested in becoming Purohits. ritual is conducted, a Purohit’s presence

nw/SS “Society doesn’t view this profession as a is indispensable. dignified one,” says one of Sharma’s sons. Despite that, Jagannath Acharya, a He says farming is much better. Purohit for almost 50 families, says, “Our Clients on the other hand aren’t al- Big changes in Purohits’ values and society is still reluctant to eye this pro- ways satisfied with the way rituals are in the nature of the profession are com- fession with respect.” Acharya adds, “It carried out by the Purohits at Pashupati. ing fast. Many Brahmins, including the is important that all cultures survive. A “Their only concern is money. More Pundits, are no longer traditional pur- coordinated effort is needed from con- importantly, they are ill-equipped with ists. In turn, the automatic reverence for cerned parties before the Purohit- the required knowledge to follow the priests is slowly but steadily declining. Jajaman relationship vanishes.” actual procedure of any ritual,” says Raj Bhandari too has changed with time. Acharya’s dark vision is a possibil- Kumar Pandey from Triveni. Pandey was Unlike an orthodox Purohit, who is es- ity if present trends continue. upset when the Purohit who he chose to sentially a vegetarian, he Professionalizing and conduct his father’s shradha did not ask doesn’t mind eating buff. modernizing the prac- him to change his sacred thread. A conventional pundit re- Many Brah- tice will force uncom- Fifteen years ago, Krishna Prasad strains from touching a fortable issues of ser- Bhandari came to Kathmandu from pig, chicken and even so- mins, including vice fees and quality Sankhuwasabha. He left behind his fam- called untouchables. If he the Pundits, into the open. Are the ily and about 100 Jajamans in a bid to does accidentally, he bathes traditional expectations change his profession. Bhandari, who is and changes his scared are no longer of Purohits’ lifestyles now 59, began as a Purohit at the age of thread to purify him. Tak- relevant today? Why 10 in his village. He gave it up in favor of ing hard drinks is out of traditional should the younger gen- a plan to run a retail shop in Kathmandu. question. Bhandari used to purists eration know and care When that business failed, he unwillingly follow those rules in his about the rituals? Diffi- came to Pashupati to become a Purohit home village but no more. cult questions indeed, once again. But he is not doing well. Kesab Sapkota, a licensed pundit of but failing to address and answer them Unlike most of the Valley, the Pashupati Development Board, says that could lead to an irreversible loss of a Pashupati area is awash in Brahmin Pun- he and his colleagues love buff momos. cultural identity. nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 29 Broadside

QUIETQUIET,, PLEASEPLEASE nw/SS

A moratorium on development talk shows is just as is spent on five and three-star venues, important as a ceasefire on staff time, per diems, on logistics and on fly-by-night development pro- fessionals on the circuit. This is for the how people in Bajura were rushing to BY SAMUEL THOMAS most part a self-referential discourse the godown at the sound of a helicopter, where the development world is speak- n the place where I come from they some maybe even hallucinating or hear- ing to itself—there is the same urgency tell children that the creator gave us ing things. They have been starving for to get out there and say something in I weeks now. Cut to the picture of par- public to satisfy the donor and grab humans two ears and one mouth be- cause he wanted us to listen twice as ticipants at a five-star interaction pro- some media attention as there is to sub- much as we speak. The “development” gram on “sustainable development,” ject the work of the organization to sector would appear monstrous by that “empowerment” or “governance.” Seri- some perfunctory evaluation by a con- measure, like a gargantuan being with ous disconnect. Extravagance juxtaposed sultant, preferably flown in. Much of several large and loud mouths and some- with starvation, illness and malnutrition. the talk ranks extremely high on the thing like a pore for an ear, because there Elsewhere in the Mid and Farwest too banality index. is so much talk and so little listening. If people are dying of hunger, diarrhea and The excessive talk reinforces the the people who mattered had listened, influenza, all preventable. Kathmandu-centered functioning and things would certainly have been differ- The artificial eloquence and profli- consumption patterns of the develop- ent. gacy of the development sector are diffi- ment sector and legitimizes it in the eyes Put simply, the “development” sec- cult to take in at such times. of both the donor and the recipient. It tor is known to quite literally put its Kathmandu is a busy place any time also legitimizes their relationship and money where its mouth is—in talk of year. On any given day, there are talk sends out strong signals to “competitors” shows. programs, seminars, workshops, inter- on the same turf. On a radio-show this week, the news actions or media briefings by NGOs The numbers of talk fests per devel- reader presented a dramatic picture of and INGOs. A huge amount of money opment calendar year has increased of

30 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly late because of the inability to work in the field and so often it centers around the conve- nient shifting of blame on the Maoists for hampering work in the countryside. This is part of the great cover-up, deflect- ing attention from the raised and unmet expectations, the failure of development inter- ventions to deliver, and the true nature of the development world’s interests. So more talk, only now, with the added note that development work has been hampered—the per- fect excuse for the rate and ef- ficiency at which the develop- ment world delivers. The costs associated with talk fests are huge. The de- velopment sector spends an inordinate amount of money each year talking to itself and its network of donors, con- sultants, assorted “develop- ment” professionals and the media. This talk only feeds the present power structure and its extended networks, in terms of where the money is spent. From informal enqui- ries it appears that NGOs and INGOs often spend some 10-15 per- a lot of talk shows, are an extensive net- question such profligacy in such times. cent of their budget on such events and work of consultants and development So, day after day, journalists make the associated staff time and operational professionals most of whom know each rounds of seminar halls, dutifully re- costs or publicity material and events. other from doing the development cal- porting the banalities spouted by devel- This is wasteful competition among endar and circuit. They together form opment professionals, their number agencies vying for the same pots of aid one set of the ground forces that support crunching and poor analyses and their money—there is very little sharing of the self-perpetuating actions of the su- imported ideas. The development information and resources, strategizing perstructure, whereby the development sector’s extravagance and indulgent be- or joint work. All this has been pos- sector derives legitimacy for greater arm- havior towards the media has co-opted sible because aid flows are heavily con- chair activity and disproportionate and dulled critical analysis. centrated and have been flowing into spending. Many are drawn from the elite It is criminal to condone such waste- the same accounts for years. It reveals in Kathmandu, and their concerns have ful expenditure during a time of national the complicity of donor agencies in more to do with maintaining the status crisis. What we need right now is a mora- feeding and condoning this wasteful be- quo. They contribute to the babble, with torium on development “talk shows.” havior. the pretense that they have been on the The next talk shows can happen some A lot of the development discourse ground. three years from now. That way we will suffers a serious disconnect from the The development sector’s relation- have got a lot more done than talk. And reality of the periphery, simply because ship with the media has muted criti- those who only talk will have dropped all the talk is conducted from a position cism. Much development talk is duti- out along the way or will at least have of privilege and inside the relative secu- fully reproduced by the media the fol- thought up newer things to say. It is up rity and numbing immunity of the capi- lowing day without any investigation to the donors to decide now whether tal. Much of it is geared towards what is whatsoever. It reveals the sheer inabil- they want to continue to put their money “current” or the priority of the funding ity of the media to go beyond repro- in such wasteful exercises or in direct agencies. The development sector’s ears ducing this received wisdom and what support to communities. The keynote to the ground, the content generators for is “current” or the “breaking story” and speakers can wait. nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 31 Business Profile nw/SS PEOPLE FIRST

A late entrant to the courier and express-delivery market FedEx is a late entrant to the Nepal in Nepal, FedEx has now focused on brand promotion market. “We do not quote market share figures, but we are confident that our and is expanding its customer base significantly enhanced service will continue to grow our business and Express. Expedited handling and on-time BY SHUSHANK SINGH market share in Nepal,” says Neelisha delivery from one point to another around Pradhan, Marketing Specialist at nyone who has seen the Tom the globe is its daily bread and butter. FedEx Nepal operations. “Our main Hanks movie “Cast Away” will What matters most in the international objectives right now are brand aware- A freight forwarding business is reliabil- remember the scenes of hectic ness, expanding customer base and operations at the international hub of FedEx ity and on-time performance. Do that continuing to train and develop our well and customers will be

nw/SS employees.” satisfied. Everest De Cargo A major chunk of FedEx’s investment understands this, especially goes for training and developing its em- since October 2002, when ployees because, as business pundits say, it became the FedEx Glo- customers expect professional and qual- bal Service Participant for ity service. One of the employee re- Nepal and had to comply wards is the FedEx Purple Award, given with FedEx standards. The to employees whose performance ap- FedEx global network al- praisal rates higher than their normal job lows packages and docu- responsibilities. “We believe in an open, ments to be transported in communicative and creative work envi- one to three days to over 215 ronment, where we put our people first,” countries. Its services cover says Pradhan. This, as the FedEx philoso- the export and import of phy of People-Service-Profit says, be- packages. nw/SS cause they believe that excellent service

32 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly results in profits if people are the nw/SS company’s first priority. Everest De Cargo, FedEx’s Nepal partner, has been in the business of air cargo consolidation and freight forward- ing services since 1984. In addition, the company has been FedEx’s sales contrac- tor for Nepal for more than a decade. “We believe that this is a mutually beneficial service proposal for both FedEx and Everest De Cargo,” says Pradhan. FedEx shares its technology and operations systems and will pro- vide training and market development support while Everest De Cargo’s more than 50 years of local experience in air transportation and import and export services will widen the options avail- able to Nepali customers. FedEx Express, a subsidiary of FedEx Corporation, says it connects areas that But why Nepal, when many are say- ours is customer driven, and our services generate 90 percent of the world’s gross ing the condition for business isn’t right deliver the solutions that our customers domestic product in 24-48 hours with due to the dwindling economy? “With need to stay competetive,” says Pradhan. door-to-door, customs-cleared service globalization, the need for quick and ef- “FedEx feels competition helps us to ser- and a money-back guarantee. FedEx Ex- ficient connectivity with the world’s vice the clients better and in the end pro- press employs more than 136,000 em- markets will definitely increase,” says vide the customer with better service.” ployees and has approximately 50,000 Pradhan, “and it is important for FedEx With its head office in Kathmandu, drop-off locations, 643 aircraft and more to meet that need.” When FedEx entered FedEx has started services in more than than 42,000 motorized vehicles in its in- the market over a year ago the competi- 17 towns and cities throughout the tegrated global network. tion was already there. “A service like country.

nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 33 Arts & Society nw/SS ranged from figurative re- alism to abstraction, and with themes that varied from spiritualism and eroti- cism to the psychological studies of the human mind. One of the foremost painters of the nation, Uttam Nepali has taken various avataars and as- sumed multiple identities throughout his career. Born in 1937, Uttamji not only studied art at the col- lege of Arts and Crafts in Lucknow, but also ran off to Bombay to pursue his dream of becoming a film actor, and briefly thought of pursuing a military career. While his Uttam’s Avataars Bollywood dream remained unful- filled, he partially fulfilled his “filmi” upon some “prior idea” makes Uttamji a ambitions: he was the first Nepali vil- BY SANJEEV UPRETY semi-abstract or a semi-realist rather lain on the big screen in “Aama,” a uring his artistic journey span- than a fully abstract painter. “His paint- Nepali feature film. In addition to this, ning more than 40 years, Uttam ings show an interest in form, and ex- he also opened the short-lived Prithivi DNepali has experimented with a plore a particular “idea” that he expresses Art Gallery in 1966 with Max Matthew, variety of aesthetic forms, mediums and through his semi-realist forms. For this an African American schoolteacher. In styles. Thus, while Nepali’s early works reason perhaps it is not appropriate to addition to all this, Uttamji is also an dating back to the late 1950s include the call him an artist of abstraction.” accomplished poet with three volumes traditional, figurative depictions of Uttamji, however, insists that he has al- of poetry to his credit. Ganesh and Vishnu, his later paintings— ways tried to resist labels such as “realism,” Both in life and in art, Uttamji has probably influenced by the artists of “impressionism,” or “abstractionism.” “Ev- adopted a vision that accepts new chal- western modernism like Matisse, ery age brings with it its own school of lenges, and which experiments with both Cézanne, and Braque among others— painting,” he says, “My artistic journey new artistic techniques and the multiple took a clear modernist turn in the 1960s. has spanned five decades. I have seen layers of his own personal identity. After This interest in modernist art took many changes, and have adapted my work all, just like his paintings, the human Uttamji towards abstract expressionism; to those changes. My mind too contains those “abstract” explorations of human own aim has been to multiplicities . There mind through variable combinations of keep on trying to inno- Uttam Nepali’s are numerous identi- free flowing color patches that charac- vate, to remain open to main strength lies ties struggling with terize his mature work. stylistic experimenta- each other within our Recently, as we conversed at the Na- tion and influences in his restless minds. Most of us tional Art Council, Uttamji criticized the while at the same time suppress some of technique of some of the younger, though creating paintings that spirit of those identities well known, painters of Nepal who, in are charged by my own experimentation within us while em- the name of “abstraction,” splash their personal vision.” phasizing others. In canvass with a variety of colors and, in As I gazed at the paintings of the process, allegedly discover their Uttamji’s paintings titled “Feelings,” Uttam Nepali, however, those multi- theme through the act of painting itself. “Happiness,” and “Love”—all in plicities acquire a visible form through “The artist should be able to explain the acrylic—and oil paintings such as his an intricate play of blues and reds, and reason behind his or her painting,” says erotic images of the 1960s, it seemed to yellows and grays. Taken together, his Uttamji. “Every painting begins with an me that Uttamji’s main strength lay in paintings speak to us about a journey; idea; the artist gives a visual expression his restless spirit of experimentation. In- an inner journey within the soul of a to that idea which first germinates in his stead of allowing himself to be trapped person who has kept on pushing new mind.” Mukesh Malla, one of the fore- within the aesthetic and stylistic norms frontiers by perpetually reinventing most art critics of Nepal, on the other of specific schools of art he had dared to himself, both as an artist and as a human hand, contends that such an insistence experiment with various styles that being.

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“Happy Times” might seem like a break from his visually stunning, histori- Shades of Laughter cal epics, but there is an underlying edgi- ness about the movie that makes it fit A rockin’ rebel teacher’s story and a genre crossover well into his canon. The story could eas- ily become appallingly sentimental—a attempt by an auteur both tickle your funny bone laid off factory worker, a blind step- daughter, and a plot with a clichéd end- BY SUSHMA JOSHI Unsurprisingly, they’re in trouble with ing is not the best combination for a their parents before a few days are out. movie. The film, however, is salvaged ot a 10-year-old? Imagine what The class project culminates in a would happen if an impersonator Battle of the Bands event. The movie is Gcame into the classroom and unrealistic—nobody in their right minds started to teach him/her rock music in- could believe such a scenario could ac- stead of math and science? “School of tually take place. Suspension of disbe- Rock” is a comedy that taps the infinite lief, however, is easy with Black at the possibilities of this scenario. helm—as he sings and plays and dances Jack Black blasts his way to rotund his way through the movie with manic comedic greatness as Dewey Finn, a energy, shepherding the group of ama- loud, second grade-rock musician who teur child actors along with him. gets kicked out of his band for misbe- True, in Nepal this would be a horror havior. Harassed by his roommate’s girl- movie, not a comedy. Which upwardly friend for being down and out, he im- mobile parent who has put his kid in an pulsively impersonates his roommate uppity private school would not see this Schneebly (Mike White) and gets a job scenario as the disaster of the year? But as a substitute teacher. Never mind that the surprising thing about “School of it’s at a snazzy private school where the Rock” is the way it takes something as by the depth of the characters, who are kids carry cell-phones and get annoyed youth oriented as rock music and makes alternately selfish, suicidal, generous, when they hear their new teacher doesn’t it a family-friendly movie. gentle and compassionate to each other. want to teach them anything. The screenwriter (Mike White) Zhao, a laid-off factory worker, is Black finds a mission in life when he seems to be on a mission to create a more searching for a wife who will take care notices his charges are musical protégés. user-friendly 2000 version of rock. Drug of him. Eager to marry a chubby He doesn’t know math or science, but he users are seen as losers, and music is the divorcée, he allows himself to be com- can teach them what he knows best—rock god that rules. If you want a facemelting, mitted to an expensive wedding. To raise music. He rushes out of the classroom and gutwrenching bellyful of laughs, the money, he transforms an abandoned bus brings in his guitars, setting up an instant “School of Rock” is the way to do it. into a place for lovers who need some band in the classroom. Everybody’s as- private space in the crowded city. Un- signed a role, and before long they’re do- able to tell his fiancée about his financial ing homework on Pink Floyd and the HAPPY TIMES status, he lies to her and tells her he man- Ramones. Classtime is devoted to the his- Zhang Yimou, one of China’s auteur ages the Happy Times Hotel. His fiancée tory of rock music. The students follow filmmakers, is well known for classics corners Zhao into giving Ying, her blind, Black as he leads them through an intri- like “Red Sorghum” and “To Live and malnourished stepdaughter, a job at the cate family tree of rock musicians. Raise the Red Lantern.” hotel as a masseuse. Zhao spends a lot of time devising a believable massage par- lor for the blind girl with the help of a group of enthusiastic collaborators. Be- sides the plot, there are other classic moments — the fiancée overfeeds her son, who is grossly overweight and dis- gustingly bratty. The stepdaughter, in contrast, is barely fed. A scene where the mother pretends to give her ice-cream when Zhao is present, and then grabs it away from her when he leaves, will not seem that foreign to Nepali viewers. “Happy Times” is a well-produced comic tragedy that will resonate with Nepali audiences.

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Kathmandu’s regular nightlife has taken a break—weekly live band sessions have been postponed, dance floors are empty, pool tables have been abandoned, and if you want to find people to hang out with head for the nearest TV at the nearest bar

BY JENNY MAYA the nearest bar. You’re bound to find a ton of people glued to the screen, hooting and stamping, eyes glued to the screen in rapt attention. And n an attempt to drag my friends out dancing during the weekend, we when they raise the roof with their cacophony when a goal is scored you Iheaded to Subterrania on a mission to get down on the dance floor. would think that the next millineal new year was nigh. Usually somewhat lacking in energy, the place hopping as early as It’s not just the buddies who party with me on Friday nights who are 10 p.m. The music was just what we wanted—a wide variety from techno down with Euro Fever. Even my more domesticated friends—those fusion to hip-hop. Everyone seemed to be enjoying themselves whether people I could count on to be home when I needed to talk to them— hanging out at the bar or getting their groove on. don’t want me butting in during prime Euro time. So, like it or not I have Subterrania draws a great mix of locals, expats and tourists all coming had to learn by rote the Euro Cup schedules: I have learned that to call together on the dance floor, which is surrounded by comfortable seating any of my friends after 12:30 p.m. is to commit the mother of all faux for the tired dancer, the observer, or the non-dancer. In the back room, passes. there are three groups of couches for a big assemblage of people who So, here we are in Kathmandu, thousands of miles away from the want to hang out, relax and enjoy listening to the music at a lower actual event, with no chance of escaping the world’s obsession with volume. futbol. The weird thing is that some of my Nepali friends seem more As soon as I walked into the club, I found myself on the dance floor. fanatical about a game where a European country battles another than I couldn’t get enough of the music. But when I slowed down and looked those in the expat crowd. I have even seen some of them revamp their around I found all of my male friends had vanished. wardrobes overnight to such an extent that I now know that blue is not a On a hunt, I found them around the corner sitting on the edge of a synonym for azure but azurri, fluorescent orange does not mean “Men at sofa filled with 20 other people or standing on the tips of their toes Work” but Holland and that it’s cooler to sport the red and white colors of straining to get a glimpse of the European Cup match on TV. We were at St. George’s insignia than the colors of the good old Union Jack. These a dance club with all this happening music and here were my friends fashion tips and the football jargon I’ve picked up, like counterattack, 4- eager to watch the idiot box! And this wasn’t the first time that Euro fever 2-4, 1-1-4-4, and golden goal may help me melt in among the rabid had ruined my evening. I remember a friend of mine mentioning that he football crowds in Kathmandu, but I would rather have my Friday nights was going to head home for the Sweden-Italy game There was no way and my friends back. we could get him to change his plans for the evening. But, another group of friends were very innovative and realized that you could watch the game at pretty much any location in Thamel, so they happily allowed us to drag them from place to place (just as long as the game was on!) But once we arrived at a particular place, talking to them was off limits (unless it was about how slick the last goal was). I guess Kathmandu’s regular nightlife has taken a break—weekly live band ses- sions have been postponed, dance floors are empty, pool tables have been aban- doned, and if you want to find people to hang out with head for the nearest TV at

38 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly For insertions: 2111102 or [email protected] City Page

ONGOING

Afternoon Jam Sessions CITY ThisWeek Bringing the best of R&B and House. At Club Platinum, Yak & Yeti Hotel. Smart EVE T casuals recommended. Every Saturday. Juneli Spotlight N S Time: 2 - 7 p.m. Tickets: Rs. 300 for ladies and Rs. 400 for gents, Rs. 500 Enjoy a fun-filled creative evening at for couples. the Juneli Bar. Juneli Spotlight is an open stage event. Take to the stage, All That Jazz and bring out the poet, singer, musi- Presenting the JCS Trio and the best of cian, storyteller or comedian in you. jazz in Nepal. At the Fusion Bar, Dwarika’s Lift your spirits with an up close and Hotel. Every Friday. Time: 7 p.m. Tick- personal event. To be on the per- ets: Rs. 555, includes BBQ dinner, a formers list, e-mail the details to can of beer/soft drink. For information: [email protected]. Date: July 4479488. 9. For information: 4256909, ext. 181. Grand Slam Offer Tantra Lounge The dual Tennis Court packages a dual Zone in to a wide range of electronica : delight of tennis plus breakfast. At Chill Eastern Dub N’ Break, Asian Mas- Godavari Village Resort. Tickets: Rs.444. sive Bossa, Drum N’ Bass, Broken Beat, Prior reservations recommended. For Neo-soul. Specials - Hookah and more. information: 5560675. At the Tantra Restaurant & Bar, Thamel. Date: July 7. For information: At Hotel Vajra [email protected] A dance performance of Hindu and Buddhist Gods. At the Great Pagoda Hall, Hotel Vajra. Every Tuesday. Time: 7 p.m. Tickets: Rs. 400. For informa- Summer Drift tion: 4271545. Sway to the beat and give in to the heat Open Air Party of the summer. At the Rox Bar, Hyatt R A T House, Hard, Progressive and Psyche- Regency. Date: July 6. Time: 7 p.m. Tick- delic Trance with the Funky Buddha Psy. ets: Rs. 600 for gents, Rs. 400 for la- EXHIBITIONS Club.Every. Friday Night. Time: 7:30 p.m. dies, includes a welcome drink. - 6 a.m. At the Funky Buddha Bar & Salsa Workshop Erotic Drawings Cafe Free Entrance. For information: 4411991 Learn Salsa, Bachata and Merengue. An exhibition by Birendra Pratap Singh. Workshop with Diego for beginners and Buddha Gallery Zen Café, Thamel. Till experienced. At the Salsando Dance July 10. For information: 4441689 Studio, Durbarmarg. Date: July 11 – 16. Registration deadline: July 10. Secret Moments Price: Rs. 1,500. Form Outlets: Ground An exhibition of paintings by Bhairaj Zero, Jawalakhel. Moksh Bar, Pulchowk. Maharjan. Siddhartha Art Gallery, Baber Tantra Bar, Thamel. For information: Mahal Revisited. Till July 15. Time: 11 9851068871 or [email protected] a.m. – 6 p.m. For information: 4218048 Film Club

Dark Days is an award-winning docu- mentary from British director Marc Singer. It focuses on a group of home- less people living in an abandoned New York City railroad tunnel. They have built homes in the underground out of scrap metal, plastic, and plywood. They have electricity, furniture, and working kitch- ens, not to mention community, and the support of each other. Shot in 16mm black-and-white, the high-contrast, grainy celluloid look is not only beauti- ful, it connects with the life of people on the margins of American society. The sparse, haunting soundtrack by DJ Shadow perfectly captures the sense of otherworldliness that pervades this film. Watch “Dark Days” at Baggikhana, Patan Dhoka. Date: July 11. Time: 5:30 p.m. Tickets: Rs. 50. nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 39 Viewpoint — Middle Class Race

The culture of materialism arrived full-force with the upscale supermarkets bringing with them the mall culture of seeing and being seen, the promenade of cars, the lines of causally dressed rich people buying tinned eatables

BY SUSHMA JOSHI the promenade of cars, the lines of causally dressed rich people buying tinned eatables. y nephew had his pasni ceremony a few days ago. The five- With the supermarkets also arrived a slew of brand name goods. Mmonth old got, among other presents, eight racing cars. The These goods have the logos of transnational corporations, and the “Made brightly colored, glittering toys were inscribed with words such in China” stamp that signifies the new global economy of cheap, liberal- as: “super,” “powerful,” “top driver,” “police,” “prowl car” and my per- ized labor. This signification of labor has allowed countries like Nepal to sonal favorite: “conquest.” Racing cars are not particularly indigenous take part in the same consumeristic culture that controls much of the to the Kathmandu Valley, so when they started to pile up I started to western countries. wonder why this automobile had taken such a special hold on the You can buy status at these supermarkets. You can buy fluffy teddy Nepali imagination. bears (with synthetic fiber that is dangerous around an infant deter- You couldn’t trace it back to the influence of television. There are mined to put anything and everything in its mouth); you can buy an plenty of popular TV shows on boxing and cricket, but there were almost airplane with a “US Army” logo on it, and you can buy armored trucks no little cricket bat toys, and no little boxing gloves. So why the racing car? with flashing lights and loaded cannons. Since children play not only for fun, but also to acquire skills useful in What you cannot buy there is a tiny bear, made in Nepal by some later life, I wondered if the racing car symbolized my nephew’s future of unnamed handicrafts industry, made of natural fibers and which does not mobility in the Kathmandu Valley. This is a valley congested with station have any fancy buttons or noses that could detach and choke an infant. wagons, cars and motorbikes. Increasingly, these are private vehicles It is the safest bear to leave around a five-month old. Ironically, this lone that belong to the middle class. They jostle for space in the tiny roads, bear of indigenous origins is gifted to my nephew by an American friend. trying to maintain their right of way with speed. The lowly pedestrian cannot navigate Kathmandu with a feeling of ownership anymore. Only those with private vehicles, and those who can drive the fastest, driving others out of the way, can dream of surviving the Valley’s hectic roads. Since toys that build skills were missing—no Lego for building skills, no wooden puzzles for critical thinking skills—I assumed the concern of the gift-givers had not been on building the baby’s future navigational skills. Per- haps a clue lay in the toys’ origins. The majority of the toys (and almost all the clothing) were bought from the neigh- borhood supermarket, that institution where the aspiring upper-middle and middle-class shop for consumer goods and identity. As a spoilsport aunt, I think one little boy can be happy with a couple When the supermarkets first opened, the meaning of going shop- of toy cars. My sister-in-law, who has lived in the Valley longer than I ping took on a subtle twist. “We’re going shopping” used to mean we’re have, insists a roomful of toys is the minimum requirement in these going to hang out, check out the shops at Ason etc., and have a gala modern times. time. Now it means “We’re going to buy status symbols (at an upscale, For the moment, my nephew is still ignorant that a battalion of racing overpriced institution where we will spend ostentatiously and buy im- cars and weaponry with U.S. Army logos awaits him in his closet. For the ported goods that make us look good in front of our neighbors).” moment, he is happiest with the crackle of wrapping paper, oblivious to The culture of materialism arrived full-force with the upscale super- the piles of consumer goods that surround and welcome him into the markets bringing with them the mall culture of seeing and being seen, material world.

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lose friends of Narayan Wagle, Editor of Kantipur, Csee him more as a travel-writer who happens to be a journalist. By his own admission, his first love is travel and he feels suffocated inside Kathmandu Valley, chasing stories every single day. Some years ago, when he took the executive position as the Chief nw/SS

Reporter for the paper, a senior journal- flict is tough. Both the Army and the Aren’t you happy being Editor? ist who had closely followed his career Maoists don’t provide much informa- Don’t get me wrong, yes, I wish I was graph and was well aware of his appetite tion. And even if we do get details it’s out more often. But I also look at this for travel warned him, “This position very hard to verify them. job as a challenge. These are such excit- will tether you to Kathmandu. And could ing times in the media—the situation in be the death of the artist in you.” Six years Would you rather be a roving the country is very fluid and there’s so on, he finds himself at the helm of affairs reporter again? much happening politically. I am learn- in Kantipur but he has lost none of his Yes, but that’ll happen later. I am pri- ing a lot everyday. And I’ve also learned passion for either travel or travel-writ- marily a writer. In fact, I’m working many things about myself which I would ing, though he now has little time for on a novel whose content is largely not have explored otherwise. either. Wagle spoke to Tiku Gauchan drawn from my travel experiences. I’d of Nation Weekly of his new life as Edi- also like try the Pico Iyer kind of nar- Do you help shape your tor of Nepal’s most widely circulated ratives. It’s really rewarding being out paper’s policies? newspaper. in the field and I believe that I have Of course. Kantipur’s largely successful learned more from my travels than I because of the freedom given to the edi- What is it like being the Editor? could have learned from books, etc. For torial team. It’s a democratic institution. It feels like I’m working eight days a week. There’s just so much going on. I How do you accommodate the conflict- was in London once and I saw this The English media is ing political views that the situations Beatles album cover with the title “Eight fairer. At least in their throw up? Days a Week,” and I thought, “that’s my It’s been 14 years since the dawn of de- song.” political coverage. On mocracy here. I’ve been involved with the other hand, they the media right since the early days of How long have you felt this? the free media in Nepal. I’ve grown up Ever since I took up journalism. I’m don’t write the hard- with the changes. I believe one has to be more of a wanderer—I love trekking and hitting stuff that the professional about one’s profession and traveling. I feel like I’m a free bird. I still just take it from there. do go wandering around the country— Nepali public wants when the publishers signed me up for What’s the difference between the the job I had demanded that I be allowed example, I was at Namche once where Nepali media and the English language to do so from time to time—but these I was interviewing the chairman of the media here? days whenever I’m away I feel like a free VDC there. As I kept firing questions The English media is fairer. At least in bird with a long leash that’s tethered to at him, I noticed that his wife wouldn’t their political coverage. On the other the office. I’m constantly thinking about stop crying. Later, the chairman told hand, they don’t write the hard-hitting the newspaper. me that his wife thought I was abusing stuff that the Nepali public wants, nor my power when I grilled him. I real- do they seem to have an extensive cov- Do you feel weighed down ized then how crazy the power repre- erage. But that’s probably because the by the logistics? sentations are in Nepal. The chairman’s English media is relatively new and That too. We have around 130 reporters. wife thought I was putting her husband they don’t have a large network of jour- Fifty in Kathmandu and the rest scattered in the hotseat just because I was an ur- nalists. The English readership is still all over Nepal. But the problem is not ban bully. I couldn’t have learned about very small but I believe that in 10 years just about managing the reporters. For such nuances in Nepal’s realities by they’ll be as huge as the Nepali me- example, getting stories about the con- sitting in the office. dia.

44 JULY 11, 2004 | nation weekly Books Desaffronizing History STUPID WHITE MEN

BY BELA MALIK ichael Moore’s “Stupid White Men” is n Times of Siege,” follows the con- and the account delves into the ordeals Man all out frontal attack on the American troversy that stalks the protagonist, faced by Shivmurthy. His own uncer- Right that not only rules the roost in America IShivmurthy, a professor of history at but also calls the shots around the world. This tainty in taking a steadfast stance is the Kasturba Gandhi University. pushed aside by Meena, who helps to is Moore’s tirade against Shivmurthy’s historical preoccupation is organize campaigns against the fundoos that big, ugly special-inter- with the ancient city of Kalyana, where, (fundamentalist) and munchies (mem- est group that he says is in the 12th century, there lived a poet- bers of the Manch). Events beyond his laying waste to the world as visionary, Basava, whose chief claim to control take Shivmurthy to arenas be- we know it: “stupid white attention was his attempt to organise an yond his customary ambit. We find men.” Right from the get go egalitarian society, which met with the Shivmurthy in the make-up room of a Moore lunges for the jugu- same dismal fate that often attends such TV studio, in a panel discussion with a lar. He lashes out against the efforts. Those who stood to lose by the fundoo bigwig, and at dharnas, rallies and “Thief-in-Chief,” George creation of an equal society instigated a meetings. He now has to take a stand. Bush, and then having set counter-revolution that led to social Somehow momentous events of the re- the battle tone goes on to upheaval and culminated eventually in cent past that passed Shivmurthy by unravel class, racism and Basava’s disappearance. Until the open- (among others, the demolition of the top-heavy corporate issues that have largely de- ing of the novel, nothing dramatic or Babri Masjid, the attack on a Kannada fined the American Right’s agendas. Neo-cons, noteworthy has happened to Shivmurthy playwright who dramatised Basava’s life and neo-liberals, too, for that matter, have dissed in either his personal or professional life. some years ago, the attempt to rewrite Moore as a disgruntled mad man who does not Two events disrupt the life of the ageing history textbooks, the assault on M.F. deserve his fifteen minutes of fame. They say pot-bellied liberal Shivmurthy. One is Hussein for daring to paint Hindu god- his writing is nothing but rants. But for people the entry of Meena, a 24-year old study- desses in the nude and the hullabaloo who would rather not sift through tomes of domi- ing sociology at Kamala Nehru Univer- raised over the filming of widows in nant theories about right-wing fundamentalism sity, who comes to stay at his house. The Banaras) unpredictably knock at his and new-age imperialism, his fresh, witty work is relationship between Meena and Shiv door. In this tornado over the contest of a welcome breather. soon moves beyond that of “ward and representation of a segment of India’s vast guardian.” and varied past, the reactions of individu- The second “incident” that disturbs the als are brought out with sympathetic re- even keel of his life is more political. The alism, and we encounter the usual line- DUDE WHERE’S “Itihas Suraksha Manch,” a hardline Hindu up of strong lefties, waffling liberals, body that lays claim to singular, monolithic “muppies” (Marxist yuppies), the right- MY COUNTRY? truths of its own manufacture, takes ex- ists ( in power at the centre) and host of n the follow-up to “Stupid White Men,” ception to a passage in other well-developed IMichael Moore is back to ask what he thinks one of the BA history characters. is a most urgent question—“Dude, Where’s modules on Basava pre- “In Times of Siege” My Country?” Moore intends the book to be a pared by Shivmurthy. is more than a novel. It guide on how to take back America from the The Manch quite natu- is a chronicle, register conservative forces in rally has a vision of a andN a journal, with en- power. Using his trademark Hindu past unsullied by tries that are frighten- brand of confrontational caste differences. They ingly actual. The story and incensed humor, revere Basava, exalt him picks up precisely the Moore expresses his bewil- to mythical status, and person who epitomised dered, enraged, yet this render him sterile so the “it-won’t-ever-hap- time, stalwartly upbeat that his radical ideas and pen-to-me” persona, point of view. Refreshingly, politics can be safely consigned to and makes it happen to him. Shivmurthy “Dude, Where’s My Coun- oblivion. The Manch cannot brook is a non-Muslim, non-Christian, non- try?” avoids being com- Shivmurthy’s history module that has a Communist and he is subjected to ha- pletely one-sided. Moore much more nuanced understanding of rassment over an issue that is seemingly finds space to praise the Republicans for what Basava. The organisation wants the “offend- so innocuous as to ever contain the pos- they have got right as well as criticize his fellow ing” booklet withdrawn, amended, and sibility of attracting fundamentalist atten- left-wing colleagues. However brief the mention, passed by a “committee” of historians of tion. In the Indian context, it is religious there are a few more shades of gray in what is dubious distinction nominated by it. fundamentalism; in other contexts it increasingly becoming a black or white world for These two “events” in the mild could be any other closure of democratic most people. professor’s life are interwoven dextrously, space. Compiled by Yashas Vaidya nation weekly | JULY 11, 2004 45 Last Word A Little Respite Binu’s Cindrella he past one week has been one of troubled times. Already, he has gone a Beauty Parlour Thuge relief for Prime Minister notch above the two previous govern- Sher Bahadur Deuba. And to some ments, which started out as appointed Institute of Hair and Beauty Care extent, the nation as a whole. With all governments and never made much their differences, CPN(UML), RPP, progress in being seen as representative MAKES YOU LOOK AND NSP and Deuba’s own NC(D) agreed governments. on the Common Minimum Program. A major challenge now before Deuba FEEL THE DIFFERENCE Though the CMP really doesn’t say is to show that his is a people’s govern- Our responsibilities only for much in terms of specificities, it holds ment without losing sight of the fact a huge symbolic meaning: it’s a show of that the King remains a key player in female solidarity by parliamentary parties Nepali politics. For his part, the King n Soft and glossy facial treatment (never mind, if all of them aren’t on has a tightrope walk to negotiate him- n Attractive inviting hair-do and board) at a time of deeply polarized self: he has to allow enough space to make-up n Perfect nature of body and face politics. the new prime minister without alien- n Courses professional and personal Still, when we went to press, Deuba ating the armed forces. The prime min- hadn’t been able to induct the three ister needs that space if he is to avoid An official Beauty Parlour parties in his government. The UML the fate of Chand and Thapa. If Deuba of Miss Nepal 1997-2003 still appeared unhappy about the succeeds in doing what the two failed power-sharing in the new government to do, the Nepali people will still say Binu Shrestha (Beauty Specialist) and about Deuba’s commitment to that the problem lay with the Panchayat Trained from W.W.I. Delhi, India such fundamentals Alessandro germany as complete resto- nw/SS Line A-System Theraphy, Germany Official Beautician of Miss Nepal ration of executive powers to the people. UML lead- ers worry that their We R in the heart of Kathamndu party has a lot more City to Conquer Your Hearts. to lose if the con- flict escalates. That is understandable: Mt. Makalu Building (2nd Floor), Dharmapath GPO Box: 10607, New Road, Kathmandu, Nepal it has a lot more Tel: 423-2488, 422-3955 (Parlour) workers at the grassroots than Please note that we do not have any NC(D), RPP, and authorized agent in Nepal yet. NSP. UML’s par- ticipation will give the Deuba government a decisive edge veterans. And a lot of credit will still go and it is only natural that the party to the King. should look for unambiguous commit- Last week’s common minimum pro- ment on some fronts from the prime gram is only a beginning. When Nation minister in return. With three more Weekly welcomed Deuba’s appointment parties in the government, the new- a month ago, we had made a point and look government will enjoy greater le- that statement still holds. The days ahead gitimacy. And this perceived legiti- are going to be a test of cohabitation for macy will give the government an edge both the head of the government and the both on and off the ground in its battle head of the state—they will have to prove against the insurgents. to a wary public that they complement It took Deuba more than a month just each other. to reach here. But the fact that he suc- ceeded in putting four parties together at all deserves some praise. It was always obvious that Deuba—or any prime min- ister for that matter—would struggle to cobble together a coalition during these Akhilesh Upadhyay, Editor

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