STE E PH I LL CASTLE ,

VE NTNOR I S L E OF WI G H T , ,

The Reside nce of

J HN MORGA N RI HA RDS Es . O C , q

A HA NDBOOK A ND A HISTORY

BY

B MA H . JOH N . R S

I T H O W ORIGINAL PHOT GRAPHS .

I t is the Soul that sees ; the outward eyes ” P e e the ob e b ut mind de s . r s nt j ct, the scrie — Cmbbe .

P rl n te d an d Pub li s h ed for Private Ci rcu lation by Ta ra DA NG E RFI E L D R I NT I NG COMP A NY L I MITE D P , .

2 B e dfo d t ee and Lond on . 3 , r S r t, Str .

E A E PR F C .

The s c ope of thi s H an dbook I had th e happin ess of

sc u o n Mor an h i s o . di ssing with Mr . J h g Richards and br ther, Mr am of N e w Yo to S t e e hill J es Richards , the rk Bar, during a visit p

c I of o n in umn of Castle , whi h had the pleasure enj yi g the aut

1905 .

m c a Then I learn ed that Mr . Ja es Ri hards had lready ac c umu lated a large q uan tity of An tiq uarian an d Bi ographic al ma a t o ou s o n of an d n tter rel ting previ w ers the Estate , eve the

Relatives of those formerly c on n ected with the C astle .

n n o as w o I o h e u These interesti g tes will , a h le , h pe , p blished in n o o m an d I was n o to ma u se of a a ther f r , ki dly all wed ke wh t was n ecessary for the pu rpos e of thi s pu blic ation .

. o n o n c a o n of E Mr J h M rga Ri h rds , the w er the state , desired

a th e s u o n o u th e c os on th t Castle , with the rr u dings , sh uld b lk hief p iti of the work ; with s u c h n otes of Town s an d Plac e s t o follow as

f m n — m s I a were o para ou nt i terest n othing o re . These wishe h ve endeavo ured t o c arry ou t so as t o make the B ook of chief i n terest t o

n an d s— as n u u of t h e a the Frie ds , G uest P t, Prese t and F t re , geni l

! os an d os s of s c i s th e G e m of H t H tes the Ca tle , whi h the

n ! de rc liff.

I am n . W n x t o E . . e c n i debted Mr Gre , the e ellent Libraria

of s for oan of man a u a oo . thi city , the l y v l ble b ks W m c was o hile this anus ript yet under revisi n , there m a to . M rs . a a o ama c e Mr and Rich rds , a visit ti n , dr tic in

n n s a in . s was sudde e s , and app lling severity Thi , when , on mo of 1 3 1906 a the rn ing August , , their eldest d ughter ,

M r s . a was o a at 56 a a at Cr igie , f und de d in her bed , L nc ster G e ,

n Lo don .

! A s o n O o s s a J h liver H bbe , Pearl Mary Tere a Cr igie, was kn own wherever the En glish lan gu age was read or s poken ; an d her death fi lled ten s of thou sa nds of hearts with grief an d symp athy for her pa rents .

s was o n s rom a s n Thi sh w by letter f Her M je ty , the Quee ,

o m m of our o a am as as om and ther e bers R y l F ily , well fr

Person ages of exa lted ra nk i n other Cou n tries .

Remembering h ow mu c h of her w ork was wrou ght in

m o t h e a . c a h as ac a a C stle , Mr Ri h rds pl ed at y disp s l the l st

! ” n of a n e w u n fin o m to o sente ces but ished n vel , A Ti e L ve , which s h e wr ote in her study at the C astle the d ay befo r e her un expected death .

H N B J O . MARS H .

T B A 1907 . S . AL NS , T he I sle of Wight .

— al l t h e o sh e o th e a . ra t on . Of S uthern isles , l rds highest pl ce D y

L I T T L E A I sland , set i n the silver sea , where the n heat is never Oppressive i su mmer , where i n winter flowers are always i n bloom , where there seldom

fift - come fogs , frost , or snow . An I sland about y six ’ m iles i n circu mference , a day s ride for a cycl ist who loves to breast the gentle slopes of hills which never exhaust a rider , who glories i n coasting long descents with the restful o r restless sea on the one hand , and pictu resquely roll ing hills on the other hand with many a pretty landscape of brown ridge and green valley

- dotted with quaint villa residences and farm houses , al ive with sou nds of animal l ife , the ai r filled with songs of blackbirds , lark , and thrush . S uch is , i n brief, a v isio n of this I sland home .

O n the north , a few miles of sea separate the o I sland fr m a larger one , where i n sum mer the i nhabit

o f ants a morning wear thi n attire because of the heat , a n d i n the afternoon and even ing shiver with cold while i n winter time , for days together , they never see the f sun , because of a yellow poisonous fog, which suf ocates you ng and old , making them prisoners beside coal fires .

- This I sland is E ngland , and Fairy land is the I sle of Wight .

H ere , after much searching , an d many widel y

f . dif eri ng experiences , Mr Richards found home i n

S t e e h ill p Castle , Ventnor , where age never stales

’ ! ” nature s i nfi nite variety .

The fact is hard to realise , without experience , that there are only n inety m iles separati ng the I sland from

- modern B abylon , the greatest , most densely populated , richest , poorest , noblest , most v icious city , that ancient

e i s or modern days have ver k nown ; where , to l ive a

n constant struggle against adverse forces , prese ted by man and nature , with l ittle of comfort , and still less restfu l ness of heart or m ind .

Take the train from Waterloo , Victoria , or London

Bridge , and i n 35 hou rs you reach Ventnor, and , by

- many an ascent and descent , finally reach the tree l ined l entrance to S t e e ph i l Castle .

Ventnor , v iewed from the sea , presents to the eye

u the fig re of a bride curtseyi ng to her lord . Attired

fl o u n ce d flo u n . c e s i n a pretty frock , to the waist , the representing so many ridges ru nning from one level to the one below u ntil they reach the sea , the hem of the garment breaking i nto many a l ittle hol low of emerald

all water and brown shingle , and fairest of these is i S t e e ph ll Castle Cove .

The bride , however, is seen no higher than the

’

- waist , girdled by S t . Bon iface s purple heather dressed Downs and from the waist u pwards heaven hides the beauty o f her face from mortal eyes ; m H anging fro the waist on the right is S t .

t Lawrence , like a precious O riental gem , and on the lef a golden Chatelai ne of terraced houses and detached t residences , fiou nce below flou nce , u ntil here is revealed

a gl impse o f fairy feet set i n a golden strand . This is the scene i n which S t e e phill Castle rears

her statel y form , and fl ings out to the wi nds of heaven ,

from her round tower , the Stars and Stripes , proclaimi ng her al legiance to the daughter of the motherland of

nations .

Form of the I slan d .

A Spirit breathes — u d f n n a l o r . a d o a d a . T On clif , t wer , v lley f

I n general config u ration the I sland resembles a

pear , the portion between West Co wes o n the north ,

’ and S t . Catheri ne s Poi nt on the south , being the greatest wid th Brading H arbou r on the east forms the i ndentation on the top of the pear ; and the N eedles on

the west form the stalk . From the Foreland o n the east to the Needles o n the west the land measu res

2 2 5 m iles , and from West Cowes o n the north to S t . ’ 1 Catheri ne s Point on the south are 4 miles . F ro m here the lan d tapers to the west with an average width 6 6 of m iles . The island is 5 m iles in circuit , and by sea

6 1 4 miles ; the land covers an area of 50 square m iles . On the north the coast is low and shelvi ng ; bu t on

- the east , south and south west , precipitous cl iffs rise to

0 0 heights varying from 40 0 feet to 7 feet . A range of chalk hills c rosses the I sland from east

to west . M idway a second range ru ns from north to ’ south , fi nishing in the headland of S t . Catherine s Poin t ; while a third range ru ns from here on the coast east wards to Shanklin .

The river Medi na rises at the north foot of St . ’ Catherine s H ill , and after crossing the I sland flows past

2 s e a . N ewport , through a cou rse of 3 m iles , i nto the This stream separates the I sland i nto two portions , called respectively the E ast M edine and West Medine. Ch ief amongst the characteristics of the I sland are the Chines and Downs . The former , n i neteen i n number , are chiefl y on the south coast , of which five exist on the west coast past the N eedles . This name i s ! originates from chink , a spl it or crack , and ! the resul t of the action of small streams wearing down the sand

o u stone their way to the sea . They are very diversified

1 0 2 0 i n character , and vary i n depth from 4 feet to 7 feet . The most famous are Shankl i n Chi ne , Black gang Chi ne , and Whal e Chine ; bu t there are no two alike , and each has some specially romantic featu re attractive to the visitor.

The Downs , of which there are eight very extensive

1 0 6 0 0 0 0 f in area , rise from 5 feet to feet and 7 eet abov e the level of the sea , and everywhere command mag n ific e n t v iews ; while for a considerable portion of the

z year they are carpeted with yellow fur e , o r purple heather.

The flow of the tides through the Solent , between the I sland and the Coast of England , were first referred

! to by Bede , the historian , who declared that two sea

cu rrents flowi ng from the north passed around B ritain ,

and met every day i n the Solent ; here , after a fierce ” encou nter, they were swallowed by the sea . V C TO R A T R R A F A A . I I E C E . C ING S E

ae e li n e s This , M ich l Drayton tu rned i nto stat l y

! his poem , Wight , the I sle

T o o x o a a n d fi r m the n rth , betwi t the f rel nd the ,

a a a o s e a w h o m S he h th th t n rr w hic we t he S len t ter ,

-Vh e re o o as a m th se r u g h ireful tides , in h er str its they eet , W o o h o an d roa a o ith b ister us s cks rs , e ch ther rudely greet ;

W fi a a n d a ma a hich ercely when they ch rge , s dly ke retre t ,

! o th e b u l wa r kt o o f a n d C a ls h e o t a p n f rts Hurs t be t , Then t o So u th ampt o n run : which by her sho res supplied ! [A s Po rtsmo u th by her strength] do th vilify their pride .

h l St eep il Castle an d the ! n dercliff.

T h e moo a m e e on ! nbe sl ps ndercliff , T h e se a a n d a m is lulled c l ,

T h e o e - b e e h as t h e o h n y left r se , T h e lily lies in ba lm al l m a we a And is usic th t he r , o w — a e A 11a n u n n i n h a m. And l vely th t se e . C g

This is the most romantic portion o f the I sland ,

o f the beau ty which has been alluded to by travel lers , literary people , and poets of every degree ; and at the present day the romantic element is greatly i ncreased , and the picturesqueness enhanced , by the art of the la ndscape gardener and the owner , so that at no prev ious period of history has th is landscape better

! deserved the title of the Gem of the I sland . The U ndercl iff is six m iles i n length and stretches from Ventnor to B la c kg a n g ; a nd was created by the sl ipping

o ff ! of the upper cretaceous s trata the lower , called the ” bl ue sl ipper , leavi ng broad ledges of land overlapping

fl o u n c e s one another, and presenting in appearance the ’ n of a lady s dress. The highroad fu r ishes lovely v iews

- of the rugged sea worn coast , broken i nto tiny bays and chi nes ; and decorated w ith amphitheatres of rocks i n grotesque confusion , over which the sea is perpetuall y dashing ; with gl impses landward of mound and hollow

- and sloping hill side , and rocky hillocks covered with

fl a me - verdu re , from tipped russet to the tenderest grey ,

v illa and sprinkled with thatched cottages , or timbered residences . Lord Cockbu rn designated the beau tiful places as those ! where the cl iffs si nk deep into bays and valleys or where there has been a terrace of lowland w formed at their feet , hich stretches u nder the shelter

of that enormous wall , l ike a rich garden plot , all roughened over with masses of rock fallen i n d istan t

ages , and overshadowed with thickets of myrtle , and ” roses , and geraniums . ” f The U ndercliff, says M rs . Radcl if e , the authoress ,

is a tract of shore formed by the fallen cliffs , and closely barricaded by a wall of rock of great height

such a scene of wildness , and ruin , as we never ” saw before .

From the su m mit of the Downs above , the v iews landward and seaward are the grandest which the island can show . A ENT R N C E .

T he Castle .

This C astle h ath a pleasa nt sea t t h e a ir N imbly a n d sweetly reco mmends itsel f e ! nto o u r g e ntle s nses .

t t

' T h e H e aven s breath ! —h a a . S ke s e r e Sme lls wooingly here p .

s e e t h e e o n I shining thy hills ,

Like a y oung bea m o f light .

’ - Cu mz z n gh mn

B la c k an M idway between Ventno r and g g , a l ittle t nearer to Ventnor han m idway , rise the massive

f t e h ill — o S e . proportions p Castle , Queen of the U ndercl i ff Th is picturesqu e building is the second erected on the

! ” spot . The earl ier one was cal led The Cottage , and was erected by the H on . H ans Stanley ( a grandson of

S i r H ans Sloane) , when governor of the island du ring his

o fl ic e 1 6 1 6 8 first term of , from 7 4 to 7 . O n a change of administration he retired , and was succeeded by H arry ,

1 0 Duke of Bol ton , bu t i n 7 7 the Duke was removed ,

1 and H ans Stanley was reappointed , and in 7 74 the governorship was confi rmed to him for l i fe .

The Cottage soon became celebrated , not only for the lovely site occupied , but for the artistic character

! of the place . This was spoken o f as one of captivating rustic simpl icity , with plai n walls , bow windows , and ”

f. thatched roo The pri ncipal room had a bow window , covered with thatch , which projected upon a lawn , looking to the west , reveal i ng scenes glowing with beauty and u nrivalled in their fascination . Faci ng the door of the saloon , a bubbling crystal spri ng fills a stone basin , carved i n the form of a scallop shell . To o the right , says a v isitor , who knew the gr unds well ,

! e ris s the garden , o n a broad terrace , sheltered by a

e rocky rampart , amongst whose d tached fragments is a

herm itage lined with moss . Springs of water refresh

t he d ifferen t walks , and form cascades and the whole area glows with the su n ’s warmest rays

There are references also , in the old gu ide books , to a grand Old fig tree on the lawn to the left of t h e

a o cott ge (which still su rv ives) , whose branches c vered a

large area , u nder which visitors frequently took tea i n

- sum mer time . A Cave on the hill side , to the right , is

also mentioned , from whence an u nrivalled v iew of the descent to the shore and the spreading sea beyond wa s l obtained ; and this cave , great y i mproved , is still

accessible .

The Governor S tanley , who erected the Cottage , held

u f n mero u s h igh o fices i n the state . H e was first employed in one or two political m issions abroad ; he

a o i n t e d a was pp Lord of the Admiralty , which post he

1 1 6 held from 7 57 u ntil 7 3 , and he was engaged i n arranging t h e prel iminaries of peace between G reat

B ritain , France , Spain , and Portugal , afterwards signed

1 6 . at Fontainebleau , i n 7 3 U pon that occasion I ! I I . : George said to him I heartily wish you joy , sir ,

e of the peace , which as a humane man , and a lov r of you r ” cou ntry , I am su re you will be glad .

1 6 6 I n 7 , duri ng his Governorship of the I sland , he

was sent on an embassy to Russia , which he gave u p

1 6 i n 7 7 , and retu rned to the island . That he was i n high favou r at cou rt is proved by

a e the various ppointments he h ld . H e was Cofferer of

’ the K ing s household i n 1 77 6 ; G overnor of the I sle of

W ight for l ife a Treasu rer of the B ritish M useum and

M P 1 1 80 . for Southampto n from 7 54 to 7 .

Whe n t he disputes arose between G reat B ritai n and

her American colonies , he strongl y espoused the position

' t of the K i ng , and the majori t y of the Parliament . A f er

an earl y outbreak i n Massachusetts , long before the final

1 6 8 declaratio n of I ndependence , Stanley , i n 7 , seconded the address to the K i ng relati ng thereto , and said that

m ilitary operations had commenced at Boston , which he ” characterised as an insolent town .

1 I n another speech , del i vered by hi m on April 7 ,

1 77 5 , he declared , I want nothing , but for the Americans

! o u t to submit then I will hold the Ol ive branch , and

propose an amnesty , or an act of grace , and obl iv ion , a

compact but I think some examples should be made .

- 1 Agai n in December , 7 7 7 , i n a third speech , he declared ,

W e ith reb ls i n arms , and stand ing up for independence ,

no treaty of conciliation can be made . T he very

proposition acknowledges t hei r independence .

’ 1 1 F inally , on Feb . 7 , 7 79 , upo n Lord N orth s

motion to appoint Comm issioners to treat , consen t, and

agree on the means of qu ieting the disorders i n America , Governor Stanley observed I f once we adm it the

I ndependence of A merica , so far as to enter i nto a

treaty with the Congress , what reason can be given

! ” n t why France and Spai n should o do the same .

! Lord North repl ied : The Comm issioners should not have the power to treat concerning any clai m of ”

. 1 2 2 0 I ndependence The motion was lost by to 3 9 .

t The father of Governor Stanley comm i ted suicide ,

’ 1 8 0 and he followed his father s example , i n 7 , while on a visit to Earl Spencer , at his seat , Al thorp ,

N ottinghamshire .

Walpole , writing to the Cou ntess of Ossory from

1 1 80 fe w Berkeley Square , J an . 7 , 7 , gives her a details of the sad occurrence , and informs her that as he died u nmarried his sisters i nheri t ; h e having left them

a year between them , and the survivor of them .

’ Fo ult o n s The seat at , N ew Forest , also passed to his sisters . H e was hal f owner, with Lord Cadogan , of the large Sloan estate at Chelsea , wh ich also passed to his sisters or other members of his family .

! Carlyle spoke of the governor as a l ively , clear ” sig hted person . The coi ncidence is rather singular that the present owner was closely connected with Boston i n youth and

e early manhood , and in that town first met , and aft rwards married , his wife ; and those troublous days between G reat B ritain and the American Colonies are recalled i n a portrait of George I I I . , which hangs i n the drawing room , by a marble bust and portrait of William Pitt , the

h e you nger , and a marble bust of Washington , i n t d ining room while the stars and stripes drape the hall and staircase , and float above the tower Governor Stanley was succeeded i n 1 780 by S ir

o f Richard Worsley , a member an old family , having a

A u ld u rc o mb e residence at pp . This mansion was originally a monastic building , i n which H enry V I I I . an d his m i nister Thomas Cromwell , were entertained by Si r

R . Worsley s ancestor , S ir J ames Worsley , when he was

Captain of the I sland . This residence was pulled down i n the begi nning of the eighteenth century , and the new

mansion was erected by Governor Worsley . Si r Richard

was a highl y educated gentleman , and had travelled thoroughly about G reece an d the Levan t , where he

e accumulat d a val uabl e collection of art treasu res , which he b rought back with him to the island , and which made f his mansion famous . H e was the earl iest historian o the isle , and his work is frequently quoted in modern gu ide books .

’ At God s - hill Chu rch are many monuments to

w as members of the Worsley fam ily . One , J ames ,

1 6 Captain of the I sland i n 5 5 , and the sarcophagus of

w male lin e . S ir Richard , ith whom the ended , is also here

1 8 2 S ir R ichard died i n 7 .

1 8 1 A fter the death of H ans S tanley , and i n 7 , th e S t e e ph ill estate was pu rchased from his sisters an d heirs at law , Lady M endip and M rs Doyley , by the

T olle mac h e H on . W ilbraham , who later , o n the death of a brother , became the fifth E arl of Dysart . A l though Lord Dysart was owner of several other

e S t e e hill s ats , p was said to have been his favou rite

a residence for about forty ye rs , and u ntil h is death i n t w 1 8 2 1 . H e died wi hout issue, and the estate, hich

1 1 0 0 consisted of some acres , descended to his sister ,

1 8 2 8 Lady Louisa M anners , who conveyed the same i n

H a mb r o u h H a mb r o u h to M r . J ohn g , son of J ohn g , of ll P i e we . p H all , N orthampton , and H anwell , M iddlesex

H amb ro u h J oh n g , thus becoming the owner , erected the present Castle upon the site of the Thatched

t o f Co tage , which had been the residence successively

Hans Stanley and of the E arl of Dysart .

a n d H e swept away an I nn , several Cottages , which

n had crept within the prese t Castle area , bu t preserved

- all the out door characteristics . These retai ned thei r f former picturesqueness , and the Castle urnishes add itional v iews of great beau t y from the u pper floors .

t h e n I n form Castle is an oblo g , the principal featu res

t n consis i g of a handsome square battlemented keep ,

- t w rising on the north side , wi h round high to er on the

- o t north east corner , and an octag n bat lemented tower i n

- t . the sou t h east angle , wi h entrance hall on the east side The stones of which the Castle is built were quarried on the estate . They vary in shade from dark grey to warm yellow ; and ivy a s well as other creepers have spread over t he surface , and hang about the oriel windows i n w e ild profusion . M r J ames Sand rson , who is famed

h is e t h e . for r storation of chapel of H en ry V I I , at ’ - min s e r e s t t . Abbey , was the archi tect M r J ohn H a mb ro ug h commenced the erection in

1 8 33 , bu t unhappily he lost h is sight before the Castle wa s 1 8 finished i n 3 5 , and never saw the fi nal form of b e auty which he had creat e d ; a pathetic illustration of

s the van ity of hu man wishes . H is initials , with tho e

w w n of his i fe , Sophia To nse d , appear on the arched w ’ entrance of the drive , ent ined in a true lovers knot , and his ini t ials and arms are c a rved ov e r the principal ” t ! doorway of the Castle , wi h the word Foresight above the crest .

t h e The total cost of Castle and the furnishing ,

e together with t he improvem nts effected on the estate , was said to have reached The approach from the U ndercl iff road is by a

t e e O u stone bat lement d gat way , pening pon a drive , which is bordered wi t h green sloping banks, adorned with shrubs , and planted with ornamental t rees , which form a

- natu ral canopy over h e ad . This leads by a circular

sweep to the front entrance on the east side of the Castle .

e The Vestibule , which has a richly grained c il ing

a n d wi t h carved bosses gothic folding doors , leads to the corridor through a scre en o f carv e d oak fill e d wi t h figu res ; the G rand H all is entered wi t h the gallery staircase on the right . This is in pol ished oak , the newels and standards being adorned wi t h exquisitely carved figu res of griffins , saints and sold iers .

A B illiard Room on the right , within the entrance ,

f z f i t . measures go t . by ; there is a ribbed oak ceiling i n panels , and elliptic pri ncipals ab utting upon carved cherubim corbels , and the great window is filled with stai ned glass .

From the Corridor , on the left , the Library a nd

S tudy are entered , the former containi ng a compl ete

e series of scientific and general cyclopa d ias , maps , and

books of reference on antiquarian , artistic , and commer c ia l subjec t s ; as well as a large collection of the l atest

u - - works of travel and the p to date novel .

- f 2 2 t . . The Di ning room measures 7 by oft , has a fine

black marble chimney piece , and a pol ished pine ceiling .

H ere on a pedestal is a bust of Washington .

Drawing - rooms extend the whole width of the west

2ft 20 ft 2 8 ft l front , measuring 3 . by . and . by oft .

making at pleasu re one very handsome apartment .

Both ceilings are in panelled oak , with carved bosses and angle pieces ; and the v iews from the bay windows

are charm ing and d iversified . S tained glass of artistic

design fill the transverse heads of the w i ndows .

’ All the Offices o n the grou nd floor, the servants

hall , the kitchens and pantries are furnished to suit

e the latest requirem nts of sci e nce . flo o r U pon the first , entered by a Gallery above the staircase , are the Bed room suites and Guest cham

u a d iffe re n t bers , each f rnished i n colour ; here also is

a ! the Boudoi r Study of the l te M rs . Craigie ( Joh n ’ Ol iver H obbes M r . Richards eldest daughter . All these rooms com mand extremely lovely views of the picturesque coast line , and across t he Channel to the coast of France .

The second , third and fourth floors , in Keep and d Tower, are arranged to su it the various emands made by a large household .

- - The roun d Flag staff Tower , at the north east

8 fr n corner of the keep , rises s . above the grou d , and over it dail y floats the Stars and Stripes .

- To the south east of the E ntrance D rive , and on the left of the U ndercli ff road , approaching the grounds

n from Ventno r, are extensi ve Stabli g and Carriage

’ ’ houses , with Coachman s and Gardeners residences

- hal f timbered .

T he Garden .

a a o o m A g rden is l ves e thing , G od wot R o se pl o t o o Fringed p l ,

' F e r n d gro t T h e ve ri e st sch ool ! —~ T E . B r own . Of peace . . T he Pleasure grou nds comprise a spacious Cricket

field , beautifully timbered and extensive woods , green glades , dell and dingle carpeted with ferns and wild

n — flowers . Spreadi g beech the copper and the fern

leaved species , and white and scarlet chestnu t trees grow i n wild l uxu riance , i n specially selected spots . Cedars of Lebanon are fou nd i n sheltered nooks , and many varieties of the pine grow i n the woods . Amongst other

a rb o r ic a noticeable features are specimens of erica ,

au ric a r ia pinus insignis , , Wel lingtonia , I rish yews , camellias , magnol ia , m yrtles , and other varieties of

a con ifer e, and deciduous trees ; while clumps of rhodo dendrons abound .

Before the west front , on the edge of the lawn , is the scallop shell basin al ready referred to , filled from a natu ral spring , i n which gold fish swim ; and from which , i n the early morning , white pigeons from their cotes , by the lawn , fl y down to dri nk . The walks withi n the grou nds extend to over three miles i n length .

Beyond the Lawn the land gradually slopes , dis

o f closing fair stretches green fields , where cricket , gol f,

- o r football may be played , tree bordered , in places , with openings through which portions of the u ndercli ff, at

S t . Lawrence , stretching ou t i n the far distance , and the sea , may be descried . I n one cl ump of trees a rookery has ex isted for many years ; and i n the early morn ing and late afternoon , their noisy disputations are distinctl y heard by residents in the Castle . A spacious Conservatory is on the west side of the f grou nds , ully stocked ; while north and south are turfed — lawns one open , and the other shaded by trees .

- fl o w An Over Villa is beyond the lawns , which is

- t built of stone , the upper part half timbered , w i h barge

fi n ialle d boards , gables and rustic porch . There are four bedrooms for guests when they overflow the Castle .

1 5 Fowl houses , ponds , walled kitchen gardens , an

orchard , a wilderness of u ndergrowth for wild rabbits , a

v inery , and glass houses for special fru its , with numerous

other buildings , complete the equipmen t of the Castle

‘ fr ie n ds u e s t s for the entertainment of , g , or residents .

! As though to omit no feature of natural beauty , nature has provided a freak of strata i n the cli ff north of

the Castle , which has been christened by the u nromantic

! ’ name of the Dev il s B ridge . This projects horizontally

from the cl iff l ike a natural cornice , and being of a

harder strata than that immediately below , there exists a cavern beneath large enough to allow of the construction within of a sheltered bench for the cu rious i n search of

the picturesque . I vy wi nds abou t the sides of the

cavern , and shrubs clothe the cl iff above and around . There is a rude staircase by which the place is reached ;

and from this point the v iew of the rolling cl iffs , and

I S . valleys , with the sea beyond , remarkably fine The surface of this portion of the N orth Cliff form f 0 0 t . the Rew Downs , wh ich rise to a height of from 7 to

8 0 0 ft . , on which the north and east winds expend thei r

fury , without reaching the Castle . f Ravens build in these cli f s , and the falcon hawk , t the onl y proper species for hawking , is frequen ly to be

seen . K ing H enry V I I I . hunted i n the coverts on the

downs , with hawks , but the sport has long since now

passed out o f fashion .

Close to the Castle , on the north , is a double

’ a gabled cott ge of stone , called The Governor s

Su mmer H ouse . This was the work of Hans Stanley ,

and here he reti red at times for qu iet meditation . The v iew from this house is particularl y entrancing ; no noise

b reaks upon the still ness — onl y the singing of bi rds occasionally fills the ai r. The house was resto red by

1 0 d M r . Richards i n 9 5 , a brass tablet on the oor records the fact .

- f 1 ft North east of this , on a plateau of the clif , 54 . above the entrance to the Castle , is a reservoir of water ,

NVa t e r filled by a Ram and wheel , each independent of the other , capable of raising over gallons a day from i ndependent springs . The Castle is suppl ied with spri ng water by natu ral gravitation .

o f The I sle Wight Central Rail way , ru nning to

Ryde , crosses the estate on a terrace above the Castle ; and when , in course of formation , a cutting was d riven through sol id rock to prov ide access from one part of the estate to another . This cutting discloses i n a remarkable

man ner the series of strata composing the cl iff.

M r . Page , a landscape gardener of Southampton , is credited with the latest arrangement of the grou nds ; d and the combi nation of art , with nature , have produce

the most pictu resque results .

O n a northern bank i n the grou nds , only a short

distance from the west front , i n an open glade , shel tered

on all sides by s tately trees , is a shrub know n as

! ’ ” Christ s Thorn , brought originally from the E ast ,

declared by tradition to have descended from a shrub , from which Christ ’s Crown of Thorns was made by the

Roman soldiers . This shrub is a remarkably fine

specimen , i n a most healthy condition , and the only

t one i n Great Bri ain . Botanists call the bush a specimen ”

u . of the Paliu rus aculeat s , a deciduous shrub Three

a - nerved al tern te ovate , or heart shaped leaves , are borne

i n two ranks , and s mall flowers cl uster i n the axils . I n the late autumn , white d rops , resembl ing sweat , appear o n the leaves , and these , as Christmas approaches , develope in to m inute l il ies .

From the South Terrace , descending by a fl igh t of stone steps , the Swimming Baths are reached . These are practically constructed u nder the terrace and form an agreeable resort i n su mmer time for the v isitors . From the Castle the grounds descend several furlongs over land broken by ravi nes and v ine - covered w t rock formations , i h here and there clumps of trees to

S t e e h ill v the cl iffs , hemm i ng i n p Castle Co e , with the tiny shingly beach and picturesque cottages . From here sixty miles of chan nel sep a rate the I sle from the coast of France . A noisy and pretty little brook hurries clown the cl iffside a n d flows across the shingle i nto the sea .

N estling i n the Cove are several v illa residences .

N o more enchanting spot exists upon the island . The

- sea , with never ceasi ng song , breaks i n waves , or simply f laves the stones o the beach . E very mossy crag is coated w i t h l ichen ; my riads of wild flowers grow around ; and furze with yellow flowers bloom peren nially , j usti f i n y g the local saying , When the furze is not in bloom , kissing is not i n fashion . R ising i n the centre of t h e

Cove is a rock like a mi niatu re breakwater, as though nature placed it there to give secu rity to sea nymphs .

H er Majesty , the late Queen Victoria , and the Prince

Consort , v isited the Castle Grou nds on several occasions , pu rposel y to enjoy the v iews . They chose the south and west terraces as their favourite walks ; and the south ’ terrace is now known as Q ueen Victoria s promenade .

H ere they often rested , looking over the rolling hills to

1 8

e the Chan nel , or strolled to the w st and watched the su n set i n the sea , beyond St . Lawrence . At a much later period the Prince and Princess o f

Wales (now K ing Edward V I I . and Q ueen Alexand ra), t v isited the grou nds , and were also greatly del ighted wi h the beauty of the views from the terraces . A nother Royal v isitor to the Castl e was the late u nfortu nate E mpress of Austria , who occupied the

1 8 Castle with her suite i n the autum n of 74 , and remai ned until the end of September . H er Majesty had the smaller of the two drawing rooms— now cal led the

- E mpress Room , converted to a bed chamber for her use , and spent a large portion of the day i n the grounds . She was particularly del ighted with the varying v iews obtained from the wal ks , and often sat , for nearly an hou r at a time , beneath the shade of a tree , whence she looked across the rolling grou nd to the sea . She was a frequent visitor to the H oly Thorn , which appeared to have an irresistible attractio n for her , and she would stand silent as she touched w ith her fi ngers the prickly points of the leaves ; afterwards , speaking to her Maids of H onour of the fearful pai n a crown made of them must have caused . She l ittl e anticipated at that time by what an awfully sudden death , at the hands of an assassi n , she was doomed to d ie .

Mrs C A I G I E . R S

LA S T WRI TI NG

W t E anat N tes i h xpl ory o ,

B e e and te for Af r .

’

h a r Crai ie s Stud . T e L te lVI s . g y

H er L ast W ritin g .

H I S Study was upon the first floor , looking west

ward , and was entered from the gallery al ready

mentioned . The last day of her l ife was S u nday ,

1 2t h 1 0 6 August , 9 , which was spent i n quiet retire

ment , chiefly i n th is stu dy , afte r having attended

earl y M ass at the Cathol ic Church of S t . W ilfrid ,

Ventnor . After break fast she proceeded here , which

was a room of her own choosing , secluded from the

noise of footsteps , or voices , however many might be t w — i n the Castle . Through o large windows which were always open in the su mmer time— she looked w beyond the tangled ilderness of sh rubs and trees ,

beyond the cricket and the gol f grounds , to S t .

Lawrence Point , i n the d istance , and the sunl it ocean

beyond . The fragrant ai r of field and garden , and the

inspiring breath of the sea , m ingled together i n the

chamber ; and if sound obtruded , the white pigeons

- on the sea shell lawn were the singers , and they also

spoke of contentment and peace . There she spent

laborious hou rs , evol ving those marvellous analyses of

2 ! human hearts and mo t ives , which have made her nam e

- world famous . H ow much those hou rs of thought were — costing her , no one not even her dearest relatives ever suspected u ntil after her death . E very volume was a span of her l ife , u ntil the last closed , only too

f. qu ickly , a record even unsuspected by hersel She closed her last completed novel , The Dream and ” the Business , think ing there would be others to follow

la n s and wrote of futu re p i n an ecstasy of pleasu re , known only to genius . I n this now famou s room she created the major number of her d iverse characters .

Little wonder , when the fevered volu me was completed , she hailed the relaxa t ion she obtained by yachting i n

fa r ~ d is t a n t the Mediterranean or by v isiting lands . She died as she would have desired . H er l ast written words were to her parents . This was i n a brief telegram to them , on this S unday evening , written at ” 6 : e — 5 , Lancaster Gate , London Fondest lov Pearl .

Then she slept , and woke to the glad new life .

O nce i n the cou rse of the morning her mother , looking into the room , saw her seated near the open w indow , with the entrancing v iew before her , holding i n her left hand a paper pad , o n which she was writing .

This was her favourite method of composition . She was preparing a new novel , adapted from a play of

' ” her s c alled A Time to Love . The idea was given to her by M r . Edward Rose , and she had written the play

t h e thereon but while awaiting the production of piece , she employed her thoughts working ou t the plo t i n the w form of a novel . After her death the follo ing sentences , the last she wrote on that S unday morn ing , were found i n her Study

R E R F OM H M A JE STY T H E Q ! EE N .

!

u 1 1 0 6 . B uckingham Palace , A gust 7 , 9 The Q ueen is desirous of tendering to the parents

of the late M rs . Craigie her deep sympathy wi t h them i n their terrible bereavement by the sudden death o f

s o — their highly gifted daughter, who has been taken from t hem i n the pri me of her life and in the height of

her fame . The Queen feels especially for the poor

young son , who lost h is beloved mother on the morning

of his own birthday .

- H . T H E R N OF E . F R M H R . I O . P CESS WAL S

!

M R R . To S . RICHA DS M uch shocked and grieved at you r poor daughter ’s

death . Offer you and M r . Richards my warmest

sympathy i n your sorrow . The funeral took place at K ensal G reen Cemetery

u 1 on A gust 7 , the first portion of the serv ice being conducted at the Chu rch of the J esuit Fathers , Farm

- Street , W . Monsignor B rown , V icar General of the diocese of Southwark , and Father Galton officiated .

The chu rch was crowded with m ourners , and there was a wealth of floral wreaths heaped on and arou nd the

o . . . . c ffin M r J oh n M organ R ichards , M r J Churchill

Craigie (son of deceased) , the brothers and sisters of

M rs . Craigie, were the chief mou rners , and the American

h i t la w d VV e . Ambassador, with M rs . Rei , Genl S ir H arry m Prendergast , and many artist , l iterary , usical and theatrical friends were present .

A ny appreciation of M rs . Craigie would be out of place here . h The H o n . J osep Choate wrote H er early and lamented death may well be attributed to the incessant

! ” e severity of her labou rs . She never r sted ; and

M onsignor B rown , i n his fu neral ora t ion , observed ! H er m ind was so prehensile and active that it wore

out her body . I t would never let her rest .

- She d ied i n the thi rty eighth year of her age . ” ! t I n A B u ndle of Life , which was wholly wri ten

S t e e h ill at p Castle , the late authoress thus treats of Death i n an epilogue

H T E ANGEL . Thi s i s o nly So rro w

- F or T o d ay . Life begins To mo rr o w I D A ! T R OF E V E A GH E .

S o they s ay .

T H E ANGEL . Life with lov e an d l a ughter G ay an d free Y n e t o hea rt a che a ft er .

D A T V E A ! GH E R OF E . C an it be

T H E ANGEL . Life with wo rk tha t rea ches T o the sky Life tha t never tea ches

H ow t o die .

a i s a Life th t etern l , E o ver y ung , Ever brigh t a n d vern al Just begun

D A ! T R F E V E A GH E O .

W ill T o - M o rro w ever da wn Sh all we make th a t golden mo rn Bu t t o see A ll a a a the tre sures g ined by te rs , ’ All the fa ith tha t s won by fea rs V a nity T H E ANGEL .

D o oo ubter , l k behi nd thee

a In the p st , All the dreams that plea sed thee Did on e la st I s a wish rema in in g Fr om thy yo uth This th o u a r t ret a ining

’ I f a . , tw s truth a a o M ort l p ssi ns sicken , F ade a wa y Lo ve al o ne c an q uicken

E a rthly cl a y .

a an d all a o F ith , ende v r

a Th t is pure , H o a n d o for pe , L ve , ever

These endure . All things else are folly T o the wise Quit thy mela ncholy A n d thy sighs

Pl Note s of T own s an d ace s .

A lum B ay.

’ mm s e t t o a o o m a Su er lip e rth s b s b re , ’ And l e ft t h e fl u s h d print in a Po ppy th e re k a a o f fi re o m t h e a ame Li e y wn fr gr ss it c , ’ And t h e fa nning wind p u ff d it t o fl apping fl a me .

- - F r a n ci s T h o mps o n .

H ow simple in their gra ndeur ar e t h e fo rms Th a t co nstitute this picture N a ture gra nts Sc arce mo re th a n sternest cynic might d e sire a s e a an d s k a n d a t o a E rth , , y , h rdly lends e ch V ar iety of co l o ur ye t t h e so ul Asks n othing fairer th a n t h e sce ne it grasps ! - T a l u -r d w r . . T . N o And makes h e r o n fo ever . f

H eadon H ill , on the north side of the bay , rises to ft a height of 39 7 . above sea l evel , and presents , i n the

! E n le fie ld opinion of S ir H . g , the fi nest and most striking scenery which the I sle possesses . O n the south side the chal k cl i ff rises perpendicularly upward s ft 0 0 . of 4 i n height , stained with yellow and green lines , and where the cl iffs enter the sea they appear broken off

- i n the far famed a n d dangerous N eedles . ’ U pon the north side the c lay c liffs are ragged i n form , l ined with vivid colou rs . These vary from blue and red to gray , yellow , and white , presenting a never d immed glory , l ike the rainbow set i n the heavens . T he brightness of these sands has led to a local i ndustry i n the sale of glass bottles , containing samples ranged i n

27 layers , wh ich are highly prized . Al um , from wh ich the

f . bay takes the name , exudes from the cl i f The scenery from all poi nts of the bay is remarkably fine . There

fiv e are N eedles , so called , huge masses of rock , detached from the origi nal strata by the action of the sea ; three only rise above the water, and these are constantl y affected by the waves . One rock , which rose ” f ! I z o t . to a height of above the sea , called The Ghost ,

! ’ ”

1 0 . or The Pillar of Lot s Wife , fell 5 years ago

A a s il rou nd about the N eedles is a rare enjoyment . The pier a ffords special attractiveness for the examinatio n of the rocks , as well as a near survey of the

N eedles . At the entrance to the pier , the Master shows

- a Saxon dug ou t boat , which he fou nd i n the sand .

Bl k n ac gang Chi e .

F a a I o ir Quiet , h ve f und thee here , And Inn ocence t h y siste r dear ak o o ou e Mist en l ng , I s ught y th n ! I b m a e of me n —M a rv l e l . n usy co p ni s .

’ Tis very sweet t o l ook into th e fair — A n d o pe n face o f heaven t o brea the a prayer h h r m m n F ull in t e smile of t e blue fi a e t . ' W h o mo a e a o is re h ppy , wh n , with he rt s c ntent . Fatigued h e sinks into some pl e asan t l air a a an d e a a de bon n air f , O w vy gr ss r ds — n m . K a t s A n d gentle tale of l ove a d l anguish ent e .

This is a romantic gorge leading to a rocky bay , i nto which the sea is perpetually dashing i n great roll ing billows . E ntrance to the descent is artfully contrived

- fl u throug h a toy shop , where a tri e m ust be bought in lie

A of paying toll . free entrance to th is romantic spot is obtained by a path near Chale Church , or by the beach T h f at Rocken E nd . e issu re i n the rocks was fi rst

t h e created by a slender stream , which ate away soft

sandstone cl iffs , which , on meeting a layer of i ronstone f t . o . grit , falls a depth of 7 to the bottom of the chasm At the side of the chi ne the broken cli ffs are i n man y f h 0 0 t . . places 4 i n eight There is a wooden stairway ,

constructed i n the over - hanging brow of the rocks facing

the sea , by which the descent may be m ade to the shore .

Shipwrecks frequentl y take place here , owing to the

exposure of the land to south winds , and the sea . Gold dust and Span ish dollars have been fou n d i n the soil

u nder the cliffs , the resul t of wrecks i n former years .

B lac k a n At g g the romantic U ndercl iff terminates .

B on church .

' T h e fair p aradise of N ature s light . >l< 4:

Sometimes g o ld - fi n c h e s on e by on e will drop w — Ke a t s . From l o hung branches . B o t h e mo a saw on t h e se a oa nchurch is st be utiful thing I ever , c st , ! — on r A r n ol d . this side G en oa . D .

- A way side Pool at the border of the roadway ,

under the shadow of magnificent beech and willow trees ,

on whose water swans spend their peaceful l ives , is the

chief attraction . The village contains many thatched

fus c h ia cottages picturesquely set i n frames of , rose and

myrtle trees .

The Pulpit Rock , su rmou nted by a cross , consists

of an ou tlying mass of rock , projected from the face of

29 the cliff, overlooki ng the sea . A similar pulpit mass of

’

- rock near is called H a d fie ld s Look out . — A small disused Church , i n a grave yard , which is a wilderness of shrubs and wild flowers , overshadowed by elms , is dedicated to St . Bon iface . The Rev . William ” Adams , author of The Shadow of the Cross , is buried here . U pon his grave is a horizontal iron cross , which w throws a shado o n his tomb , and J oh n Sterling , the friend of Carlyle , also is buried here . Ash Cliff was the residence of the late E lizabeth

! Sewell , authoress of Amy H erbert , and other works . A dmiral S ir Thomas H opson was a native of this

to place . H e was a parish lad , who was apprenticed a tailor at N iton , but ran away to sea , and rose to the highest position i n the B ritish navy . O ne exploit of his was the breaking of the boom at Vigo Bay .

St . B on iface Down s .

Ven tn or.

m n are h — a i v d . T h e steps of a good a o rdered by t e Lord . D — N a s h . T h e daises k iss o ur feet . e Bon ifacius ” is one of those fascinating figu res of

- a ante medi eval history , whose labou rs changed the face of E urope , and set nations on the road of progress and reform , christianising and dominating the powers and practices of heathenism and these Downs preserve the recollection of this illustrious Saint ’s early con nection with the I sle , before he earned for h imsel f the title

Apostle of Germany .

6 80 A . D Born at Crediton , Devon , he entered a 6 0 monastery i n 9 3 , and became a priest at the age of 3 ,

1 i n 7 0 . When he left Devonsh i re he entered a monastery at Southampton , where he resided for a few

o f years , and du ring this period crossed to the I sle

s t ill Wight , where he laboured for a time . A tradition survives that while i n the island he was considerabl y exercised with religious doubts , such as frequently affect men of deep piety . H e was hu miliated by his lack of advance i n religious truth , and especially i n his lack of comprehending the attributes of God . While thus exercised , on one occasion he was walki ng on the shore , where Ventnor now stands , and saw a boy digging a hole i n the sand . H e watched the lad , who presently filled a s h e ll with sea water and poured it i nto the hole this he repeated many times , and at last , standing on

’ th e water s edge , he threw down his shell and bu rst i nto W tears . ilfred , the monk as he then was , went up to the lad and asked him why he wept . The lad repl ied , I wanted to empty the sea into the hole I dug , but I

’ ” ! ” ! can t do so . T hat , said Wil fred , is the cause of l all my u nhappiness . have been tryi n g to compass ” the infinite with my fi nite m i nd , an d he retu rned to his cel l with a clearer conception of his duty than he

. 1 8 ever had before I n 7 he j ou rneyed to Rome , and was ordered by G regory I I . to preach to the Pagans

’

. of Germany After five years labou r i n T huringia ,

Bavaria , Friesland , H esse , and Saxony , baptizing thousands , he retu rned to Rome and made a report to

G regory . So pleased was the Pope that he created him

3 1 f 2 . a B ishop i n 7 3 , giving him the name of Boni acius

’ H e returned to Germany , and after nine years further successful labours he was made an Archbishop and

Primate of all Germany . H e fou nded B ishoprics , and

Archbishop rics , and bu ilt mo nasteries and churches without n umber , continu ing his work for more than thi rty years . O n J u ne 5 , 7 55 , he was mu rdered by a host of barbarians i n West Friesland , together with a number of converts to whom he was administering the rite of baptism . H is body was buried i n the Abbey of Fulda ,

- Prussia ( H esse Nassau), whose fou ndation stone he had years before laid , and to the p resent day the abbey is i n possession of a copy of the Gospels , which he wrote with his own hand , one page of wh ich is stained with his blood . w The v ie s from all sides are magnificent , as the 8 ft Downs rise to a height of 7 3 . above the sea , and dom inate all the rolling hills i n the vicinity .

O n the steepest portion , facing south , is a small w pool of water, which has never been k no n to become

! ’ ” ! V V iS h i n dry . This is called S t . Bonny s , or The g ' s Well , and is associated with the escape of a B i hop

from death , who gave an acre of grou nd as a memorial

to Saint Boniface for his del iverance . This acre , which

is at the foot of the cliff, is enclosed by a ridge of tu rf,

’ and called to the present day Parson s A cre .

' mi t -h I lmm Ja r r ol i l rt o u s N u r . , S ,

A T W A Y C A R B R OO K C A T G E , IS ( S LE ,

Behind the chu rch is a fi ne old su ndial , which has told the time to v illagers for many centuries , a nd from the stone step a lovely v iew is obtained . The Dairyman ’s Daughter ” was E lizabeth Wall bridge , and her epitaph , which is cut upon her tomb in

Arreton chu rchyard (3 miles from N ewport), was written by her biographer, the Rev . Legh Richmond

’ a a or Str nger if e er by ch nce feeling led , ! o a o oo a p n this h ll wed turf thy f tsteps tre d , om o m a o of s od Turn fr the c n te pl ti n the ,

And think of her who se spirit rests with G od . o l ot on a — wh o o L wly her e rth bu t He , b re o f a an d t o oo Tidings gr ce blessings the p r ,

a H i s t an d a t o o G ve her ruth f ith , fulness pr ve , The ch o icest trea sures of H is b o undless l o ve ’ ’ Fa ith tha t d i s pe ll d affl ic ti on s da rkest gloom H ope th a t c o uld cheer t he p a ssage to the t omb

’ a a n ot a o o o Pe ce , th t hell s d rk legi n c uld dest r y

’ And l o ve tha t fi ll d the s o ul with hea venly joy .

’ D a of it s di s arm d s h e n o a e th sting , knew fe r ,

’ ’ Bu t t a sted h e a v n e en whilst sh e lingered here . 0 a a 1 ma , h ppy s in t y we , like thee , be blest ”

a u i n fi n d r . In life be f ithf l , and death est The town of B rading boasts great antiqu ity as a settlement , but is now a small place . A massive iro n ri ng i n the grou nd marks the site of the ancient place for bul l baiting . Below the Town H all , which was

1 8 8 rebu ilt i n 5, are the old stocks and whipping post . I n the old chu rch are monuments to members of the

O la n d e r g family , of whom Sir John , whose effigy is i n wood , was the first historian of the island . H e was at worship i n the chu rch on the morning of S unday ,

1 1 6 N ovember 5, 4 7 , when he was informed that

o Charles I . had landed at Newp rt that day , a nd at

34 day - break next day he proceeded to that town to do him homage . A t Maton , between B rad ing and Sandown , are the remains of a Roman v illa , which contained twenty

five 1 8 8 0 w. rooms , d iscovered in , and now Open to V ie

Carisbrook an d the Castle .

- I T h is fi re drake [Ashburnh am] l e d His M ajesty [C h ar le s . ] o u t o f th e wa a h e o o o k O x o a n d o y cle newhen f rs f rd in disguise , sh uld h ave come t o Lo nd o n an d n o t int o t h e Sc o ttish C a mp ; but His M a jesty will h a ve bett e r guides wh e n h e fo rsak e s t h e Isle o f -Vig h t h e fo or s ook a a fo r I s l e a n d w h e n h e l e a ve s i t a n d o me s P r dise this . c ‘ ' ’ ! ' - t o h i s a l a e a t I Ve s t mz i is t e r i t s b u t a s t e t o H e a v e n . P c , p

r u i u s A n t i - r a ma t i c u s N o m 25 M e c r p g ( ve ber ,

C arisbro ok Church o n t h e fi fth o f N o vember Flung o u t t h e silver hid deep in h e r chimes was h e r B e e a t o m m This burden , pl sed re e ber T h e ill which they did in papistic a l times I

' — z k a r s . B e s s e R . P e

n Carisbrook , the town , estles under the shelter of the Castle , and is picturesquely Situated o n the side of a h ill , overlooking a valley , the opposite hill being crowned by the Castle . The church crowns the steep v illage

1 0 . street , and on the tower is the date 4 7 A n i nterest

VVa d h a m ing monument is one to Lady M argaret , au nt of Q ueen J ane Seymou r , and another is the recu mbent

- figure of the ill fated Princess E l izabeth . Below the Vicarage garden are the remains of a

R a v 1 8 . om n illa , d iscovered in 59 N ode H ill marks the bu rial pla c e of a n umber o f

F rench murderers , who were slain there . The history o f this Castle goes back to a more remote period than any other i n the I sle , and was a

- place of defence from a pre historic period . A Norman Castle was erected on the heig ht by the E arl of

H ereford , a relative of William the Conqueror, and i n 1 0 8 2 William h imsel f arrested in the hall of the Castle

- h is hal f brother Odo , Bishop of Bayeux . N o portion of this build ing now remains ; the earl iest n o w

B ald wi n l v isible is of the twel fth centu ry . William

F e s t ib u s de Vernon , and I sabella de , the Lady of the

I sland , each had a share in completing the construction o f the Castle i n the form now remaining . The earl y history has faded before the interest attaching to the place , as the enforced residence of Charles I . prior to h is removal to London by the agents of the Army and

Parl iamentary party . O n his reaching the I sl e of

1 Wight ( November 5, the K i ng su rrendered himself to the care of Colonel H ammond , the Parl ia mentary Governor, and was at first allowed a consider

o f able amou nt l iberty , but after making two attempts to escape , he was more v igorously treated and confined to the precincts of the Castle . The K ing ’s fi rst v isit to the Castle was with his

I . father , J ames , when a boy of nine , after hu nting deer and slaying a buck i n Parkhurst forest ; and d in ner was served i n the great hall of Carisbrook .

H ere is a blocked window , close to a buttress on t the north cu r ai n wall , which is pointed ou t as that from which the K i ng made h is second attempt to escape .

2 1 6 Charles was kept at the Castle from November 3 , 47 ,

6 1 6 8 to September , 4 . H is en forced leisu re was largel y

- ~ devoted to l iterary p ursuits , and the tilt yard was con

verted into a bowli ng green fo r h is use . H e annotated a copy of Shakespeare , with aphorisms and quotations , which is now i n the Royal Library at Windsor Cas tl e ; and here he wrote those prayers forming the E ikon

B as iliké , which created a revulsion of feel ing i n the m inds of h is people shortly after his martyrdom . The reputed au thorship by D r . Gauden continued to be a

1 8 8 0 disputed point amongst historians u ntil , when one w of these prayers , i n the hand riting of the K ing , was identified i n the S tate Paper O ffice , and announced by

M r . Edward Scott , of the B ritish M useu m , i n h is

1 6 8 reprint of the edition of the Prayers of 4 . The Castle

’ w . alls were the chief scene of the K ing s dail y exercises , he making a circu it of them twice a day at a trotting pace .

’ T wo of the K ing s children , H enry , Du ke of

Gloucester , and the Pri ncess E l izabeth , were i nterned at

6 1 6 1 0 . the Castle , August , 5 A l iberal allowance for maintenance was made by Parl iament , who gave orders that they were to be treated as the children of a gentle

a man onl y . Withi n week of tak ing up her residence here the Princess Elizabeth , then i n her fifteenth year , caught cold while playing at bowls with her brother , and died September 8 . H er death was attended by a

i . pathetic ncident She was fou nd in her bed , her hands clasped as i n prayer , and her face resting on an open

B ible , given to her by her father at their last interview .

! M r . H arry , as he was called , her brother, the

Duke of Gloucester , remained at the Castle u ntil the

1 6 spring of 53 , when he was allowed to joi n the Pri ncess d of Orange , his sister , i n H ollan . I I Crom well and Charles . made frequent use of the Castle as a place of confinement for State prisoners .

Amongst the Governors have been Lord Cutts , a

Duke of Bolton , Earl Cadogan , and an E arl of

Portsmouth .

2 The Castle crowns the su mm it of a h ill , 39 feet

above the sea , and com mands fine v iews u pon all sides . A t the outer entrance is an archway bu ilt by Q ueen

1 8 E l izabeth , dated 59 ; then a stone bridge leads by a

- - gate house , grooved for two port cull is , flanked by

- 1 0 1 6 . circular towers , erected 3 4 3 4 The upper porti on

of the gateway is now a mu niment room , prepared as a

memorial to the late Pri nce H enry of Battenberg ,

- 1 8 8 6 . Governor of the I sland , 9 9

Through the gateway the great Cou rt is entered ; on the left are the suite of rooms which were occupied

I . by Charles , and the blocked wi ndow by which he

sought to escape , as wel l as the room in which the

Princess E l izabeth died . On the right are the ’ armou rer s forge , the guard house , and the chapel of

S t . N icholas .

’

Other poi nts of i nterest are the Constable s lodgings ,

the G reat H all , and the G reat Staircase .

2 0 The Castle Wel l , i n the court , is 4 feet i n depth ,

and the water rises to a height of 9 0 feet . Water is raised i n a bucket by a Donkey treading i nside a wheel of

1 . chestnut , 5 feet i n diameter

The Keep , which has eleven faces , is bu il t on the top

0 of a mound 5 feet high , and is approached by a fl ight

2 t O of 7 stone steps , at the p of which is a double gate

way , grooved for the fall of a portcullis . Portions of w this work date from E d ard I I I . , but the Keep was

38

1 n constructed i n 1 0 0 . The views from here are charm i g and varied . There is a pleasant series of v iews to be had from

a a s the Castle walls , on which Charles I . took d il y w l k during his residence .

H Cowes, Osborn e ouse, Norris Castle,

W hippin gham Church .

A thing o f b ea uty is a joy fo r ever Its l o veliness increases it will never P ass into n o thingness : but still will keep o for an d a A b wer q uiet us , sleep f e m an d n — a o a a a d a . Ke t s . Full swe t dre s , he lth , q uiet bre thing

s W 1 The Ca tle of est Cowes , b uilt 539 , is now Y the Royal acht Squadron Club H ouse . The season N lasts from May to ovember , and the regatta is held early i n Aug u st . From the parade there is a fine v ie w of the harbour , which is crowded i n the season with yachts from all quarters of the world .

w n West Co es is composed of arrow streets , which are very quai nt in appearance .

- - - Charles I I . landed at a point about one and a half

e \ 1 6 1 mil s from Vest Cowes , i n 7 , and v isited S ir

Robert H olmes . w E ast Cowes , which is another quaint old to n on the opposite side of the Medi na , is gained by a float

h O e ing bridge , above the pier, but in a few years the p

39 is entertained that a tu nnel will be constructed below the

river, which will con nect West and E ast Cowes , and be a great conven ience to the i nhabitants and v isitors . t Norris Cas le , E ast Cowes , is celebrated as the

residence for several years of the late Duchess of Kent , and as the early home of her late Maj esty Q ueen

Victoria . Du ring those years she i mbibed that love l of the I s and , which i nduced her i n after years to

B lac h fo rd 1 8 pu rchase from Lady I sabella , i n 4 5 , the

house and grou nds of the Osborne estate , where for more than fift y years she spent with her fam ily a large

portion of each year, and where she died . The major portion of the residence is now devoted to the use of a Convalescen t I nstitution for O fficers of the Army and

N avy . The gardens are laid out in terraces , and the

t h e whole ground , as well as house , com mands lovely

v iews of the Solent . Osborne H ouse was bu il t from designs by the late

Prince Consort , who adopted the Palladian style of

archi tecture . The clock tower rises to a heigh t of f t . 1 . o . 9 , and the flag tower is 7Oft high The late

’ e Q ueen s apartments were at the W st end of the house . A special perm it must be ob t ained to v iew the house

and grou nds . D uring the occupation by Q ueen Victoria the estate

included acres of grou nd .

’ Since her M ajesty s death 6 0 acres have been

o ff fenced for the pu rposes of the Royal N aval College . The buildings are on the right of the Prince of Wales ’

Gate . Prince Edward of Wales entered the College

1 0 as a Cadet , on M ay Day , 9 7 , bringing up the number

0 0 t he of students to 4 , full complement .

40

S h Half a mile d istant is the wiss Cottag e , w ich con

f e tai ns a Dairy , very much requented by the Princess s d u ring t he l ife of the late Q ueen , where are still pre served the toys which amused Queen Victoria , when a child , and those belonging to all her children .

’ 80 0 The Prince Consort s farm is at Barton , where acres of land are mai ntai ned i n a high state of cul t iva tion , and famous stock is produced .

I n the reign of Charles I . the estate belonged to

E ustace Mann , who , during the troubles which arose , t buried a great quan t i y of gold and sil ver i n a copse , ” near Barton Wood , called to t his day , M oney Coppice , because when tranqu il times returned , he never fou nd the place ag ain where he bu ried his treasu re .

O ne m ile south of the house is the Chu rch of St .

M ild red , Whippingham , at wh ich , the Royal Family ,

w . hen i n residence , were constant attendants H ere is a mortuary chapel , with a handsome grille , to the memory of Prince H enry of Battenberg . The Prince was

2 married i n this church to the Princess Beatrice , J uly 3 ,

1 8 8 1 8 6 5 , and here he was buried i n February , 9 .

O ther memorials are to the Pri nce Consort , Princess

Al ice , two Princes of Prussia , and the Duke of Al bany .

The Font , a gift of Q ueen Victoria , is also a memorial

to the Prince Consort .

A lmS - houses , erected by the late Queen , are opposite

the church .

Tradi t ion has pleasantly associated the name of

e I saac Watts , the emin nt hym n writer , wi t h H ampshire ,

his native county , and with the I sle of Wight , as the

4 1 inspiration of many of his most cel ebrated compositions . The one commencing

! i s a a o f u There l nd p re delight , is said to have been written i n a v illage on the coast j u s t opposite Cowes ; and another one beginning

! fi o fl oo Sweet elds bey nd the swelling d , ” a St nd dressed in li ving green ,

- was suggested by the su n lighted fields , as he gaz ed upon

- them from the sea shore . While many of his theological compositions are forgotten , his devotional hymns will l ive for ever .

T o t h e e o k moo an d o these gentl S uth , with isses s th s ft , — h e r o m a n m t o h e r ft . a t o o o a d o o n . D th in b s bre the , see c urt Dr y This paris h includes the whole area of the Penin

Ya r , sula created by the and stretches to Compton Bay , l e w and \Ve low . Th re are no fe er than four watering

— A l u m hamlets with in the parish F reshwater Bay , Bay ,

Totland B ay , and Col well Bay .

I n Freshwater Church , Lord and Lady Tennyson

placed a tablet as a memorial to their son Lionel , who

n mm o f . Co u died at sea , and a statue S t John , ear the

n ion Table , was dedicated by them to his memory .

Lady Tennyson was , at a later period , interred i n the

churchyard .

H ere , i n Freshwater Bay , are two masses o f chalk ,

which stand out of the sea , one is called Stag Rock and

the other the Arched Rock .

L uccombe Chin e, Shan klin .

— ' fl o we rs t h e a - I e af d a mo Of fr il . white ne ne ' a k d re n c h d o f mme D r bluebells with dews su r eves , — o S o e e a e . a t t h w n ol d And purple rchises with p tt d l v s M e A r .

This is a tall free glen , the steep sides covered with trees and bushes , a small brook babbl ing over a stony ’ fis h e r me n s bed , and a few cottages at the base .

The great landsl ip of 1 8 1 8 is close by . This spot attracts many because of the manner i n which natu re has deal t with the movement . and the whole scene is romantic i n the extreme . One of the most attractive bits here is the stone seat , which the slip created . O ff Luccombe Point the E u ryd ice training ship

2 1 8 8 went down i n a storm , M arch 4 , 7 , when out of several hundred on board a man and a boy were the only two who escaped with thei r l ives .

Newport .

S ometimes o f o an d o om m A scent vi lets , bl ss ing li es

' L o i t e r d a o e o f o e r und us th n h ney c lls , — l l - w r a a m a fl o e K a t s . M de delic te fro white bells . e

t This town is the Capi al of the I sland , and derives much historical importance from the proximi t y of

1 Carisbrook Castle . I n 3 7 7 the town was totally

20 0 destroyed by the F rench , and for years rem ained a mere ruin . James I . granted the first charter of incorporation , and from his reign better times dawned for the town . I n 1 58 5 N ewport obtained the right of sending two representatives to Parl iamen t . There is now only one Member of Parl iament for the whole Island . The chief interest i n N ewport arises from the cou rse of events during the contest betwee n Charles I . and the

Parliament . Charles I . reached the town , after his

2 escape from H ampton Court , on Su nday , N ovember 3 ,

1 6 47 , and rode to Carisb rook Castle , where he G surrendered h imself to Colonel H ammond , overnor of the I sland . Army and Parliamentary Comm issioners followed , and co nferences were held i n the Town H all , the K ing holding Cou rt i n the Grammar School . H e

0 was arrested here o n N ovember 3 , and carried prisoner to H u rst Castle . Three of Queen E l izabeth ’s most faithful servants

! ” were natives of N ewport . One , for her soul , was

Dr . E des , Dean of Worcester , the second was her

n . physicia , Dr J anes , and the third , her busi ness manager , was M r . Thomas Fleming , afterwards a Lord

Chief J ustice . The three were related to one another .

The Parish Chu rch of St . Thomas is modern , but contains many rel ics of the original chu rch , erected i n

1 1 80 . H ere , in a vault of the chancel , l ies the body of

I . the Princess E l izabeth , second daughter of Charles , 1 C who died i n her 5th year, i n arisbrook Castle ,

8 1 6 0 . September , 5 This was nineteen months after

' her father s execution at Whitehall . Q ueen V ictoria erected a monument to the Pri ncess in the north aisle .

M aro c h i This was the work of Baron e t t . She also gave the two stained glass wi ndows which are near, as well as the medall ion portrait of the late Prince Consort . The figure of the Princess was taken from a portrait in the possession of the late Queen . Another tomb of interest is that of S i r Edward

H orsey , Captai n and Governor of the I sle, i n the ti me of Q ueen E l i z abeth .

1 1 The registers of the Church date from 54 .

m . I n the old ce etery , J . H Reynolds , the friend of

Keats , was interred .

The G rammar School , with quaint gables , was the n residence of Charles I . during the Co ference with the

2 Commissioners , which lasted from October to

2 1 6 8 7 , 4 , and was hel d i n the Town H all . The ’ n school room was the K i g s Presence Chamber, and in

’ the drawing room of the head master s house the King was fi nally arrested .

Newtown .

' I ll linger in a sl oping mead

T o a t h e k a n d se e e e he r spec led thrushes , f d — ‘ i l Ke a z s . Our d e sheep .

This is the oldest borough i n th e I sland ; and was i n existence before 1 1 84 . A n early charter bears date

1 2 6 . 1 5 B y a descent of the French i n 3 7 7 , the town was destroyed , and never recovered the positio n pre

v io u s l . y held J ohn Churchill , Duke of Marlborough , and George Canning were amongst the Parl iamentary representatives of the borough . The town hall , a quai nt old bu ilding , is rapidly decaying . A mace , which bears date i n the reign of H enry V I I . , is now held by the

’

Lord of the M anor . her popularity . The town rises from the water on the slope of a steep hill .

1 I n 7 53 , Fielding , on his voyage to Lisbon , where

. f he died , landed at Ryde H e had serious di ficulty i n

! effecting this , and i n his jou rnal declared , there is an

! impassable gul f of mud and sand , which can neither

be traversed by walking nor swimm ing , so that for

near one - hal f of the twenty - four hours Ryde is

inaccessible by friend or foe . H e was hoisted into a small boat from his ship , and , being rowed pretty

! u near the shore , was taken p by two sailors , who

! waded with me through the mud , and placed me i n a ” chair o n the land .

o f M arryat , eighty years later, spoke wherries ,

! which cam e as far as they could , and were met by a

! horse and cart , which took ou t the passengers , and carried them through the mud and water to the hard

ground .

1 8 1 The Pier , which was opened i n 4 , is half a m ile long ; and here passengers are landed now without inconvenience at all hou rs .

- E ast of Ryde , upon the sea shore , are several mounds of stone and sand , which mark the bu rial place of seamen who lost their l ives i n the wreck of the

! Royal George , and whose bodies were washed ashore at that point . All Saints ’ Chu rch was bu ilt from the plans of

. 20 0 . Si r G Scott , and has a spire feet high San down .

on th e a t h e l ow s e a Turning be ch , while

a o u t m o e e a o Spre d in irr red g ntlen ss , ll ws

A a a o th e o p th l ng curling edge , beh ld Such d a z z ling gl o ry of prismatic tints

’ o e r t h e o as a Flung l fty crescent , ssures T h e Orient g ardens where Al addin plucked

- l u d f n T N . T a o r . or o a . . Jewels fruit , f ble f This Town is a popular place of resort i n the sum mer time , havi ng a good pier and esplanade hal f a m ile i n length . The sands are very attractive , there being no shingle . All the known strata of the I sland are here laid bare , from the Wealden to the Tertiary .

I n the bay is a modern Fort , which marks the site — of two earl ier ones one bu ilt by H en ry V I I I . , and the later one by Charles I .

J oh n Wil kes , of N orth Briton fame , bu il t a

1 8 cottage here , and resided frequently between 7 3 and

1 I n 79 7 . his garden he erected a colum n i n honou r of Chu rchill and on S u ndays b e frequently walked to

ic k G arr s . S hankl in for church , where he met with the

Shan klin .

” I went to S hankl i n , says Keats , i n a l etter

! 1 1 8 1 — dated April 7 , 7 ; a most beauti ful place sloping

wood and meadow grou nd reach rou nd the chi ne , which is a cleft between the cliffs of the depth of

0 0 nearly 3 feet at least . This cleft is filled with trees

and bushes i n the narrow part , and as it widens

becomes bare , if it were not for primroses at one side ,

which spread to the very verge of the Sea , and some

49 ’ m w Fish ermen s huts o n the other , perched id ay on the balustrades of beautiful green H edges along their

steps down to the sands . B ut the sea , the sea — — the l ittle waterfall then the white cl iff then S t . ’ ” Catherine s H ill . This Town is celebrated far and wide for the u nusual beauty of the neighbourhood . To the north and west the Town is sheltered by Downs ; but suffers much from east winds i n the earl y portion of the year . Lord J effrey gives the following description of the

! place . H e calls Shankli n a v illage m ixed u p with

trees , and lying among sweet , airy fal ls , and swells o f

u n grou nd , which fi nally rise p behi d i n breezy downs

8 0 0 feet high , and Si nk down i n front to the edge of the varying cliffs which overhang a pretty beach of

fi ne sand , and are approachable by a very striki ng ” wooded ravine , which they call the Chi ne .

There is a good pier , esplanade , and a chalybeate spa , said to possess considerable medical virtues . This Town was the scene of the encou nter between the ’ d E ul x Chevalier , and his party , and the I slanders , at

1 the close of the u nsuccessful French invasio n of 54 5 , when the Cheval ier and most of his followers were slain .

! ” Keats began his poem entitled Laura , while

1 8 1 l ivi ng here i n 9 . The pictu resqueness of the place may be gleaned

' from the aspect of the cottages , near the entrance to the chine , which i ncludes the Crab I nn and a number

- of rose covered thatched houses .

O n the opposite side of the chi ne , near where it ’ debouches on the shore , is the pictu resque Governor s

- - house , hal f hidden , half disclosed by trees .

ENT R A N C E C R A IGIE LO DGE . Whitwell Mead was the residence of H ol me Lee

( M iss Parr) , the writer . The walks on the cl iffs and upon the sands com

mand fine v iews .

Other Famous Chin e

’ W al e n are the p Chine , at Chale , seven m iles from f Ventnor . This is a gorg e through cli fs , which rise to a

height of 1 8 4 feet .

Ladder Chine , the next , is a basi n shaped hollow ,

ending i n a narrow crevice , where many geological remains are fou nd ; the base is formed of ground which

has slipped from the rocks above .

Whale Chine comes next i n order . This has the

1 8 0 repute of being the deepest of all . This is feet

1 0 wide i n the mouth ; the cl iffs are 4 feet high , and

extend a quarter of a m ile i nland . ’ Co wl e a s e S hepherd s Chine and Chi ne , p retty and

picturesque , come next i n succession ; then Barnes a Chi ne , an opening in red cl y rocks and Grange Chine ,

- S a Coast Guard tation . A fter that is B rook Chi ne , where may be seen t h e remains of a mass of petrified pine

. h trees , amongst w ich are bones of reptiles and other

r a creatu res of a past geological e . ‘ — ’ C t o a c hi n < ompton Bay leads , in which N oah s i

ec - W nuts are fou nd these are a . sp ies of hazel nut , h ich

have become carbonized .

fl in t s . I n the Shingle , chalk veined with quartz and

a ar e d - w ch lcedony of several colou rs picke up , as ell

as moss agates , petrified anemones , and jasper pebbles . — T h e a e l . vill ge life sl eps trustfully . T a fo u r d .

B ees th at so ar for bl o om

! \ m m th e o in o x o — Vill ur ur by h ur f gl ve bells . Wo rd s wo r t h .

T h e o of e a p etry rth is never dea d .

3: t t ti

Sur e n o t al l

' Th ose mel o dies sung in to th e wo rld s e ar

A r — a K t s . e useless . e

t h e This is best wooded v illage i n the I sland , an d the appearance of the Church spire rising above the wood t is one of great beau y . The Chu rch carries the pal m as the most attractive i n the I sland . The Church is div ided t t i n o three equal portions , wi h the nave and chancels f u nder one roo . This was probably erected early i n the

y fift een t h centu r . There is a gu n chamber at the west end of the south aisle , where in former years a can no n m was kept for defence , and this is the onl y one re aining .

The seats are set east and west . O n the canopy over the pul pit is an hou r glass i n an iron frame . O n the walls are paintings of S t . Christopher . The altar table

1 6 6 1 is of black oak , and is dated . Many i nteresting brasses are preserved i n the pavement and on the walls ,

ffi ie s while several monuments bear cu rious e g . I n a glass case is a copy of the third ed ition of

1 1 the G reat B ible , 54 and the Chu rch possesses a fine

El izabethan Chalice of 1 56 9 .

The v illage contains many thatched cottages , covered with rose t rees .

C R A IGIE LO D GE GA R D EN S .

A mural tablet , i n white S icil ian marble , has been t o pu t up just over the entrance the lodge , with the following i nscription

NOVELIST .

R A I D AM T ST . PEA R L M A R Y T E R E SA C R AIG I E LIVED HE R E 1 9 0 0

1 9 0 6 .

The tablet was designed by M r . J ohn Adams

- n . Acton , t he well k own sculptor This is rou nd in shape , and t he let t eri ng is enclosed withi n a very beautifully des igned lau rel wreath . ' m Close by is Cripple s Path , leading to the sum it

. of the cl iff, from whence the Views are lovely To the e l ft is the Orchard , where the gardens laid out i n terraces i nspired the muse of S winbu rne to sing

a o of f o a an d a In c ign the cli f, between l wl nd highl nd ,

’ s e a - a an d At the do wn s edge between windw rd lee , W a o o as an an a lled r und with r cks inl d isl nd ,

The ghost of a ga rden fr o n ts the s e a . A girdle o f brushwoo d an d tho rn encloses The steep sq u a re slope of the blo sso mless bed W here the weeds tha t gro w green fr om the gra ves of it s ro ses

N ow lie dea d . fi N o t a fl o wer t o be pressed o f the fo o t tha t falls n ot ;

As the hea r t o f a dead ma n the seed - plo ts a re dry ;

o m of o a a n ot Fr the thicket th rns whence the n ighting le c lls ,

o a a o t o . C uld she c ll , there were never r se reply

O m a o a o om an d ver the e d ws th t bl ss wither ,

’ Rings but the n o te o f a s e a - bird s so ng O s u n an d a n om nly the , the r i c e hither A ll ! yea r l o ng .

P u c kas t e r fis h e r Cove , a l ittle inlet occupied by i men , is another p ctu resque spot , of which there are

54

many sim ilar round abou t the I sland , with thatched

s cottages of the fisher folk and land labourer , whose lads and lasses are al ways playing about t he boats on the beach .

The old - world V illage of N ito n is named aft er a medici nal spring , i n poe t ic su rrou ndings , where sweet hearts and the newl y - married drink of the water which has the repu tation of securing for them t he maxi mu m m of happiness , and the m in imu of worry Reeth Bay is a lovely spot for bathing the sands are pleasant and the sea safe .

’ t o f S t . Catherine s Point is the extreme sou h the

I sland , where the sea makes bathing dangerous . H ere

t pilots land from ou ward bou nd vessels , and t here is a

’ Lloyd s telegraph station . The Lighthouse first erected

1 8 8 i n 4 was , forty years later , supplied wi t h an electric l ight , the most powerful i n existence , whose flashing va r i - coloured beams l ight up the west front of S t e e ph ill

Cas t le through the silen t hours of the night . The

Lighthouse is open to i nspection .

A Fog horn , close by , worked by steam , gives warni ng to Mari ners when the sea fogs may obscure the electric light . From this point westward the character of the land completely changes , and i n place of verdu re is barren

- ness , caused by exposu re to the south west winds and waves . Boulders of rock cause t he roadway to wind

t h e very much , and then the road passes over landslip

1 0 0 w k 1 . of acres , hich too place i n 79 9 The grou nd rolls l ike the waves of the sea , and is covered wi t h coarse vegetation and stunted Shrubs and trees .

O n the right is Gore Cl iff, which presents a pleasan t

55 study of all the lower cretaceous strata from the lo we r greensand to the chalk above . ’ 8 0 St . Catherine s Down rises to a height of 7 feet , and from the summ it charmi ng and ex t ensive v iews are obtained , though not so varied in character as from other

l umn 2 . a c o Downs O n this Down is 7 feet hig h , erected i n memory of a V isit from the E mperor Alexander

1 8 1 n ow of Russia i n 4 , which bears a tablet to the memory of E nglish officers who fel l i n the Crimea .

Swain ston .

I N T H E R N N G A DE AT SWAI STON .

! N a e a o ighting l s w rbled with ut , Within was weeping for thee Sh ad ows o f three dead me n

' Wa lk e d in t h e wal ks wi t h me . a o of a me n a n d o was on e of t h e Sh d ws three de d , th u three .

N a a o o ighting les s ng in his w ds , T h e M a ster was far away N ightingal e s warbl e d an d sang Of a p assi o n th at l asts but a d ay t h e o o fi th e of o l a Still in h use in his c f n Prince c urtesy y . T wo dead me n h a ve I k n own In co urtesy like t o thee T wo d e ad me n h ave I l o ved With a l o ve th a t ever will b e a me n a o an d o ar t a of t h e Three de d h ve I l ved . th u l st three .

T e n n ys on .

This h istorical Manor is of very ancie n t origi n

1 28 E dward I . came here i n 5 ; E dward I I . granted i t

to his sister M ary , a nu n of A mesbu ry and subseq uent

- residents were Warwick , the king maker ; his son - l n ”

law , George perj ured Clarence ; and M argaret Pole ,

r 1 1 Cou ntess of Salisbu y , beheaded i n 54 . Queen Mary

56

Governor of the I sland . K ing j oh n was upon two occa

v i 1 1 2 was s io n s a is t o r . I n 3 7 7 and 5 4 the Town destroyed by the French . The place is small , and contains many

e curious old hous s . I n former times the inhabitants were largel y engaged i n smuggl ing , and the houses were

- honey combed with hiding places for smuggled goods . I n the chu rch is a colossal statue of Admiral S ir Robert Y H olmes , the captor of N ew ork , whose gold , brought from G uinea , was t he first coi ned into guineas . H e

1 6 2 died in 9 , when Governor of the I sland . The body of this statue was captured at sea by a son of the w Governor hile i n course of transit to France , where a head of Lou is X I V . was to have been added . B ut

al s o as the Sculptor was taken prisoner , his services were eng aged to complete the stat ue of Sir R . H ol mes .

h L n T e ady Gover or . K Visit of the ing of Spain .

t A f er a renowned series of Captains and Governors , there followed as Governor the late illustrious Prince

h e H enry of Battenberg , to succeeded at his lamentable death by his am iable Consort , Pri ncess H enry , as

G overnor, whose daughter, Princess E na , is now Queen

Victoria of Spain .

The v isit of the K ing of Spain to the I sland , i n

1 0 6 the Spring of 9 , to see his betrothed , was the most notable incident of the year i n Island history . T he Name of Richards .

The i ndustry of M r . J ames Richards has resul ted i n the d iscovery that the surname of the present owner of S t e e phill Castle is by no means new i n the I sland

history .

1 Y I n 553 , the old J acobean manor house of averland , which on the south and west looks across Sandown

B ay , was pu rchased by J ermy n Richards , a Welshman , and the estate remained i n his family u ntil the middle of

the eightee nth century .

When Lord Conway was Governor of the I sland ,

’ 1 6 2 a u d e i n 5 , j g of the K n ight s Cou rt was S ir Edward

Richards , and i n the reign of Charles I . another j udge

was S ir J ohn Richards .

1 1 0 . I n 7 , M r J ames Richards was one of the

members of Parliament for N ewport , and n i ne years afterwards the residents of the I sland i ncluded S ir J ohn

Rychards , old M r . Richards , M r . J ermyn Richards , and the Lady Richards . S ince the present owner of S t e e ph ill Castle came to reside i n the I sland , he and his wife , M rs . Laura

Richards , have closely identified themselves with the

social l ife of the I slanders , and hav e done much to

advance all local interests . An eligible piece of grou nd near the Castle is used by the Ventnor Cricket Club for

playing purposes , and the grou nds of the Castle are constantly thrown open to the use of local organizations

for festivities , i n order to raise fu nds for various

purposes .

M r s . Richards is constantly to be seen , together

z with her husband , at the openi ng of ba aars , or support

59 ing appeals for fu nds in aid of rel igious movements ; and promoti ng the organization and maintenance of such l useful institutions as f ower and fruit shows , and th e N work of urses and B ible women . She is particularly interested i n M ission work amongst Sailors , such as that

’ carried on by the British and Foreign Sailors Society , and she had the honou r of distributing the medals given

’ by the Society to Admiral Togo s men , when they v isited E ngland to navigate to J apan the two warships built for their Govern ment i n this cou ntry .

Golf L in ks .

Gol f is a favourite game with the Residents and

Visitors , and the Royal I sle of Wight Golf Club has set an example to all the minor Clubs in the construction of

- Cou rses and the establ ishment of convenient Cl ub houses .

’ Their St . H elen s cou rse is situated on a spu r of land between Bembridge H arbour and the Solent . There f are n ine holes , short bu t su ficient the tu rf is of

z adm irable qual ity , and there are good ha ards of sand , sea , whins , and road . ’ 1 8 The Ladies Cou rse has holes ; the holes are short , furnished with natural bu nkers , and there is a comfortable

- Club house .

Other courses are at Afton , east of Freshwater

Bay , nine holes , with roads , chalk pits , and artificial bu nkers as ha z ards .

M P . o by Major Seel y , ( Liverp ol) , Lord Alverstone , and Lieut . J . Mackenzie Rogan . These deserve a more endu ring record than can be obtained i n a newspaper , and are therefore ensh rined i n this book .

! Major Seely , proposing the toast of The I sle of ” t Wigh , our Cou nty , discussed the reason why they

o f loved the I sle Wight . H is own bel ief was that it arose from the fact that the island was so singularl y beautiful . There was more beaut y to the acre than i n any other part i n the dominions of the K ing . H e did not k now how many of those present had stood at the head of Bowcombe Valley and looked down that sur

’ passing prospect on a summer s evening , with the sunlight gli nting upon Carisbrook Chu rch , and with the magnificent sweep of the Downs o n both sides . Who had not seen that v iew and thought that indeed the I sland was fair Perhaps some of them had sailed rou nd the eastern end of the Island an d endeavou red t o make Bembridge H arbour— let them hope it was at high water , for i f not they m ight have spent the night — there and looking up the narrow neck , past the marshes , where B rading lies , seen the light shin ing upon another v iew of su rpassing beauty . O r , best of all , perhaps , after a great storm , they had stood upon the south - west shore of the I sland and heard the thunder of

- the sea , seen the pale green l ight in the north west , and when the sea began to die away and the wind veered rou nd they had seen the chance of fine weather . Then they confessed it was all wondrously beautiful .

Lord Alverstone , replying to the toast of his heal th , observed that he h ad been closely con nected wi t h the

6 2 — n — I sland boy and ma for 5 7 years . Referring to the

glorious scenery . he asked anyone to take his stand on the top of Bembridge Down and look at Spithead and the entrance ' to Portsmouth H arbou r on the north and

the glorious v iew up the Chan nel . H e would ask any one to go to the western end of the I sland and stand close by the magnificent monument to their great poet

Tennyson o n the Freshwater Down , where he coul d

see the beautiful entry to the Solent by the N eedles .

O r , if anyone would drive along the backbone of the

o f I sland , he would have the most glorious illustrations

varied E ngl ish scenery , land and sea , that any neigh

b u rh o d o o could possibl y display . I f they wanted to

was study science , what more i nteresting than the f geological structu re of the U ndercl if , the fossil trees of t B rook , the magnificent collec ion of sands at Alum Bay , and the way i n which the strata rose from east to west

i n one part and from west to east i n another , i n a manner wh ich was not to be seen i n many other parts of the

U nited K ingdom . They saw signs of a great upheaval ,

and the frustu m of t he cone had been swept away , giv ing an indicat ion o f what happened thousands or

millions of years ago . H e considered the Solent was

one of the most beautiful pieces of water i n the world . Fro m the N ab to the N eedles they had twenty to twenty

fi v e m iles o f water , with the beautiful coast of Hampshire

- on the one side , and the ever varying coasts of the I sland ,

’ with trees com ing down to the water s edge , on the

other . I f more people only k new the beau ty of the

Solent , they would appreciate how glorious she was .

Lieut . J . Mackenzie Rogan spoke of the nu mber of soldiers and sailors and em inent men i n other walks of l ife who were natives of the I sle of Wight . H e knew of seven or eight o fficers in the Army at the

present , natives of the I sland , who had , l ike himself, risen ’ f from the ranks , and the chairman s ather was a very f distingu ished o ficer in the Coldstream Guards .

The Chairman , responding to the toast of success

to the Society , spoke of the enormous attractions the

I sland provided in the shape of Sport . I f they l iked

sailing , the Solent afforded unequalled facilities for that recreation ; they might get becalmed fou rteen m iles

from home as read il y as i n any other part o f the country . They could steam at any speed they desired up and

down the Solent . I f they affected that curious game

wh ich consisted in k nocking a ball into a fu rze bush , picki ng it up and knock ing it i nto an extremely small

hole , with a great loss of time and a great display of the — v aried capabil ities of the E ngl ish language if they wanted to do that they had every facil ity i n the I sle of

Wight . I f they were motorists , there was every facil ity

for them to break their necks in a motor car . There

were roads as narrow , inconvenient , and dangerous as

any , but before long , u nder improved conditions , it would be said that not a single motor acciden t had

occu rred for many years past . Amongst objects of historic interest i n the I sland they had Carisbrook

u ar r Castle , the Roman villa at B rading , Q Abbey , and \ i the I sle of V g h t Central Rail way . A tou rist could al ways find something to interest him i n their beautiful

I sland .

! N IV E R SIT Y OF CA L IFORN IA LIB RA R Y L o s A ng el es

k i D E n t h e l a a s am e l w T hi s b oo s ! o st d te t p ed b o .

’ — - F o rm L 9 4 2mr 8 4 9 ( B 5 5 7 3 ) 4 4 4