the edittrr's

0CTOBER2000 . Vol.17, N0.7 ' lssueNo. 127 a new EditorLARRY CLAYT0I'| ManagingEditor JIM HARROLD AssistantManaging Editor/Features PETER J. STEPHAN0 article series SeniorDesign Editor JAMES R. D0WNING ProjectsEditor BILL KRIER we thinkyou're gonna' like ProjectsEditor JAN HALE SVEC ProductsEditor DAVE CAMPBELT Beginningwith this issue,we're introducinga brand-newcol- TechniquesEditor JIM POLLOCK umn titled "Be Our Guest(Expert)." To kick thingsoff, we're ShopManager/Prolect Designer GHARLES l. HEDLUN0 AssistantDesign Editor/Proiect Builder KEVI!l BOYIE featuringBill Hug, a talentedguy who hasturned more than Production/0fticeManager MARGARET CIOSNER MUNYot'l Bill Hug,the first 5,000vessels in the last 18 years,many of them using AdministrativeAssistant SHERYL guest expert in ArtBusiness Otfice Secretary BARBARA HELPS exotic . Reader-ContactSpecialist BEI'l VONRUDEN our newseries wonderful-looking with all of Bill's experience,he'd be a natural ContributingEditors KIM DOWNING, [0RNA J0HNSON, of articles,really We thoughtthat R0XANNELeM0lNE, CARSON 0DE, knowshis way to sharesome of his turning wisdom with you (andus). If you B0BMcFARHN, DAVE HENDERSON aroundthe ContributingCraftsman JIM HEAVEY take a look at page 18,you'll find out what his sevenfavorite lathe. MASINI woodsare as well as four typesof woodsthat give him CreativeDireclor DANIEL turning AssistantAn DirectorCHERYL A. CIBULA trouble.In addition.he lists woodsthat often PublisherMARK HAGEN give woodworkersa rash,and tells aboutseveral AdvertisingDirector WILL MURPHY AncillarySales and Internet Manager MARLEN KEMiIET woodsthat startout beautiful,but then disappoint AdvertisingOftice: 333 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1500, when they oxidize. Chicago,lL60601 Phone: 312853'2890 FAX: 31 ?58G7906 DAKIS you haveexpertise in a particularwoodwork- DirectResponse Advertising CARoLYN If AccountExecutive YUWEI LEE ing subject,or you know someonewho has,write AccountExecutive RON G0LMINAS (Expert)," magazine, AdvertisingManager JIM HUGHES to "Be Our Guest WOODa MarketingManager GERALLIE LEGASPI 1716Locust Street, GA310, Des Moines, IA SalesAssistant MARGARET TRAVIS 50309-3023.We'd be glad to hearfrom you. PublishingDirector WILLIAM R. REED AdvertisingServices Manager PAT HENDERSHOTT ConsumerMarketing Director LIZ BREDESON AssociateConsumer Marketing Director KATHI PRIEN AssistantConsumer Marketing Manager DAVE HONOLD your BusinessManager CRAIG FEAR renew SeniorProduct Manager RICK GROW MEBED]THPUBLISHING GROUP subscri-ption PresidentCHRISTOPHER M.LITTLE VicePresident Publishing Director JERRY WARD and get five free projectPlans! CreativeServices ELLEN DELATHOUDER ManutacturingBRUCE HESION Thoseof you who haveaccess to the lnternetcan now eliminatethe hassle ConsumerMarketing KARLA JEFFBIES KAPI-AN of mailingin a renewalnotice and check each time you renewyour sub- GroupSales JERRY OperationsDEAN PIETERS scriptionto WOODmagazine. Simply log onto www. woodonline.com Financeand Adminisfation MAX RUNCIMAN and click SUBSCRIPTIONS.Upon renewing,you get to printfive free ^lUleredtlh I conposlrroru downloadableproject plans as a gestureof our appreciation. WILLIAMT. KERR, President and ChieJ Executive Officer when at wooD oNLINE@,sign up for our bi-monthlynewsletter filled E. T, MEREDITHlll, Chairmanof the ExecutiveCommittee with the latestonline happeningsand registerfor our monthlytool plans. Finally,check OCopyrightMeredith Corporation 2000 sweepstakesor our free dowloadablewoodworking All rightsreserved. Printed in theU.S.A. onlinesearchable WOOD magazine index for a completelisting out our Better Hontes and Gardens@WOODo magazine(ISSN-0743- of our projects,techniques, and tool reviews.JF 894X) is publishednine times a year in February,March' April' May/June,July/August, September, October, November, and Deiember by Meredith Corporation, 1716 Locust St'' Des Moines, IA-50-309-3023.Periodicals postage paid at Des Moines,Iowa, andadditional mailing offices. Better Homes and Gardenstrademark registeredin Canadaand Australia. Marca Resistrada en Mdxico. ONE-YEAR SUBSCRIPTION PRICES: U.S. and its possessions,$27; Canada,$39; other countries,$47. CanadaPost PublicationsMail SalesProduct BN 12348 2887RT. Customer Service Information: For serviceon your subscription,including changeof address,contact www.wood' Asreement No. 1369350.Canadian BetteT Homes and magazine.com/service or call 800/374-9003. SirUscription-mailing address: Better Homes and Gardens WOOD CANADIAN RETURN ADDRESS: Edna Street, Windsor, mafarine, P.O. Box 37439, Boone. IA 50037-0439. Piease enclose your address label from a recent issue.Editorial Gardens WOOD magazine, 2744 addresschanges to mailingaddness:TheEditor, WOOD magazine,lT16LocustStreet.GA3 l0,DesMoines. IA50309-3023.Forques- Ontario.N8Y lV2. POSTMASTER: Send P'O. Box 37439' tions f6r our editorial staff. questionsabout how to reach an advertiser,or to place an advertisementin our magazine BetterHomes and GardensWOOD magazine, call 800/374-9663. To ordei back issues call 800/346-9663. For article reprints. write to the editorial address and Boone,IA 50037-0439. enclose$5 per article. I ,lP^l

WOOD magazine October 2000 -! this issus's ; l hi hli hts I WOODo mdgoztne October2000 lssue 127 www.woodmagazine.com

wopdWnrking proiects t6 greatideas: ball-drilling jig Use this simple project to bore perfectly centeredholes in woodenballs. 54 slidingtable add-on Improveyour tablesaw'scrosscutting capacity with this well-engineeredworkshop accessory. page54 m Shaker-styleblanket chest Createa family heirloom with this handsome,full- size storagepiece. Featuresinclude eye-catching box joints, two accommodatingdrawers, and a wraparoundprofile along the base. 66 big-timebox-joint jig Machineclean, accurate, box joints in large solid stock or panelswith this handy - on fixture. page 74 clockworkunder glass 66 Apply your craftsmanshipto this exquisitetall clock. Large glasspanels framed in walnut pro- vide a clear view of the brassmovbment within. 80 toy floatplane Take off with this classicdesign, then give your favoritejunior pilot somethingto smile about. page74 H?'L+ial" 22 dovetailbits Rout snug-fittingdovetail joints with thesespecial cutters. 70 dampnessdetectives Get an accurate reading on the moisture content of your and with one of the 10 shop-tested meters found here. 86 quick-changeartists Speedthe processwhen changingdrill bits by soupingup your portabledrill with one of theseshop-tested add-on chucks. sl productsthat perform Page 86 ????$continuedon page 6

This issue's cover wood grain: buckeye Cover photograph: Baldwin Photography

WOOD magazine October 2000 5 this issue's highlights Continued from page 5 WOODomogdzine October2000 lssue 127 www.woodmagazine.com tgBnftoues 30 makenew furniture parts from old See how we copied an existing furniture part to make a new replacementpart that blendsright in. 34 tips flom yourshop and ours 43 how to glue up a perfectpanel Learn a surefre way to make long-lasting,solid-stock panels from contributingcraftsman Jim Heavey. 68 how to cut largebox joints Seehow easyit is to rout sizeablebox joints using the jig featured on page 66.

featunes page43 2 the editor'sangle I talkingback l4 businessside of :wood-wide web Discoverthe many ways in which the internetand having an online store can help you sell your hand- and machine-madegoods. page84 18 insightsfrom a woodturningmaster Find out from an expertwhich turning woodswork best. m WOODONLINEo n hot off the internet 4g segmentedbowls from Sedona SeeArizona woodturnerGalen Carpenter's approach for page68 forming beautifulcreations from wedgesof wood. 84 masterfulwalking sticks Meet five folk artistswho begantheir craft by providing help for others. 97 wood anecdote:rcd When this wood goesup in smoke,there's usually fish nearby. ll2 finishingtouches

WOOD magazine October 2000 -l tmilkilrt

We welcomeyour comments, criticisms, TalkingBack suggestions,and yes, even compliments, W00Dmagazine Weselect and publish only letters of the 1716Locust St., GA310 greatestbenefit to ourreaders. Write to: DesMoines, lA 50309-3023

A safer grooving cut Mobile mitersaw center update In buildingthe NestingKnockouts in Issue121, I fol- Severalreaders noted an error in the Bill of Materials for the lowed the directionsas given exceptfor cuttingthe slat Mobile MitersawCenter in Issue119. The thicknessof the groovein the rails (B). The rails for the small tableare sawtables (Q) shouldbe t3/to"as shownbelow. only 63A"long, and I was not comfortablepassing these Readersalso have requested assistance in laying out the two piecesover the dadoinsert on my tablesaw.I cut the sheetsof plywood for this project.Here's a completecutting groovesin all the rails first, using two 3/cx2x24"preces diagram. for the small tablerails. After forming the grooves,I cut Bill of Materials thesepieces to length. Finished Size -Robert Mich. Part G Mueller.Menominee, T w L = g L Q sawtables t3Aa" 101/ro 3134a" B/L 2 3/qx 31/zx 24" Glock finish reuealed After receiving a number of inquiries, we asked Senior Design Editor Jim Downing to elaborateon Vqx 5Y2x 48" the finish usedon the Shakertall clock kit he built in Issuel23.Here is his process. Sandthe wood with 150-gritsandpaper. Make 16

3/qx7Yax 96" Birch oz. of dye,mixing one part TransTintDark Mission Brown no. 128486and two partsTransTint Reddish Brown no. 128483,according to the directions. TransTint aniline dyes are availablefrom Woodcraft, call 8001225-1153. Thin 4 oz. of the dye mixture, I part dye to 3 parts water, and apply with a foam brush. This raisesthe grain and showsany glue smudges.Let the thinned coat dry overnight and sand with 220-grit . Now coat the wood with the full-strength mixture, wiping up any excessdye with a cleanrag. Let dry overnightand sandwith 320-gritsandpaper. Finish 3/qx 48 x 96" Birch plywood with two coatsof Olympic Antique Oil no. 41004, following the directionson the can. Let the finish dry for 24 hours,apply pastewax with 0000 steelwool, and buff with a cleancotton cloth.

MORTISEDETAIL (rightrear leg) Thble dimensions 3/a" don't add up

r/16 / | A readercalled to tell us that Ve"went AWOL from the Mortisedetail on the Nesting Knockoutsin Issue121. See 3/+x48 x 96" Birchplywood the correcteddetail at left. Continued on puge I2

WOOD magazine October 2000 tmEkfrnffi, Continued.f'ront puge 8

The great metric debate, part two With referenceto Melvin Brzostek'sletter in TalkingBack, mals,rather than inches and fractions,which are,by their Issue122, many people advocate use of the metricmeasure- nature,hard to manipulate. ment systemto facilitatemathematical manipulation. -William Dettmer,Crescent, Ga. Conversionsof measurementsin inchesare not a problemif you work in decimalsand not fractions.It doesnot take much Our designers know what you're talking about, Bill, because effort to becomefamiliar with the decimalequivalents of they use decimal equivalents when drawing with their CAD fractions.You mustthink of dimensionsin inchesand deci- program. Here's the conversion chart they keep handy.

Tiwotips on wrestling with rust AskWOODo in Issue123 gives advice on freeingrusted As a retiredmillwright andpart-time farmer, I've had a few bolts.I own a constructioncompany that specializesin steel experienceswith rusty bolts.My bestsolution is pouring buildingsand reinforcedconcrete and run into this predica- white vinegaron the bolt. The vinegarquickly penetratesthe ment often.To loosena rustedbolt, I heatit with a torch until threadsand rust. it is red hot, thenquickly cool it with cold water.il -Gordon Greniger,Grand Rapids, Minn. -Roy Hester,Macon, Ga.

12 WOOD magazine October 2000 %#ffiffidwrmrk$rxffi Wood-lvide Theinternet opens a worldof optionsforselling yourwoodworking

Barkermay just be a part- That haspaid off by puttinghim l\ /Tunt IYltime woodworkerin Charlotte, amongthe top 50 siteswhen visitors North Carolina,his hometown, yet the entersearch terms like "woodworkers" marketfor what he makesis the world. or "humidors."Marty learned With a little moxieand a lot of aboutsite promotion mainly ,-$ research,he turnedhis website, online,he says,entering the term thinssWindsor-chair related. Martyswoodshop.com,into the primary "site promotion"into search Windsorchairresources.com includes outletfor his sidelinebusiness of sell- engines,and surfingthe results. links to chairmakersas well as ing woodenwriting sets,boxes, inquiriesfrom would-bebuyers. shelves,humidors, and other small gift Expand new items.Besides operating a boothat one business horizons Credit cards outdoorcraft fair eachyear, he makes For Marty Barker,the web serves cost money all the restof his salesonline. mainly as a convenience.But for Beth Surprisingly,Peter doesn't accept cred- Antonsen,an art-furnituremaker in it cards,as do mostall websitesin A crafts show Ketchikan,Alaska, it's morea matter e-commerce.Instead, he collectsa that never closes of keepingher businessgoing. After checkas deposit when someone orders For woodworkerslike Marty, the sellingall the furnitureshe could to and anotheras paymentin full before World-WideWeb hasturned into a sort doctors,lawyers, and other profession- shippingthe purchase.But woodwork- of non-stopcrafts show. Even wood- als in the hill-huggingcoastal town of ers like Marty Barker,who take orders workerswho makeexpensive furniture 13,000,she launched her site, for smaller-ticketitems bought on and don't take ordersonline find the bethantonsen.com,last January to find impulse,usually need to acceptcredit Web a valuablemarketing tool. For as new markets.Her first inquiry came cardsfor electronicpayment, even little as $200to $300to start,and $20 to from Korea,and shethinks her furni- thoughit coststhem a little money. $50 a monthto maintain,a websitecan ture styleactually may play betterin Creditcard companies generally be an interactivebrochure that never Asia thanAlaska. chargefees ranging from two to five getsoutdated and doesn't require any PennsylvaniaWindsor chair builder percentof the transactionamount, postageto reachthousands of people. PeterWallace sees his site,Windsor- accordingto Marty. And despitelosing Marty got about8,000 visits to his chair.com,mainly as an online $200to onefraudulent transaction websitein the first yearfollowing setup brochure."With traditionaladvertising, from EasternEurope, the North in April 1999.Because many visitors it's very time consumingto answera Carolinacraftsman says the siteand simplye-mail questions to him about responseby sittingdown, writing a let- creditcards are still worthwhile."l differentwoods and woodworking, ter, andthen enclosing a brochure," tried a print catalog,but my products he's addeda sectionto his siteon Petercomments. "Every year I proba- kept changingall the time," he adds. wood selectionto help answerthem. bly changemy line about60 percent "So evenif I just usemy websiteas a Yet, he alsohas sold severalthousand with new pieces.It's mucheasier-and catalog,it paysto haveit."lP dollarsworth of goods.And Marty lesscostly-to put new photographson monthlyresubmits new information the websitethan to redo a brochure." Writtenby Jack Neff, a Batavia, Ohio, business writer and author of How to abouthis site to internetsearch Peteralso utilizes a referencewebsite, Make Your Woodworking Pay for ltself. engines,such as Yahooand Altavista. a sortof onlineencyclopedia of all lllustration:Jim Stevenson

14 WOOD magazine October 2000 {,ii+*,#'e.reR$#"ffiffiffi

a simple design for a special task

The tall clock project on poge 74 calls baseand cap. (See the Jig HoleGuide for drilling perfectly centeredholes in on thedrawing.) Insert the bolts and balls. While you can hold a centerthe jig by loweringthe bit back ball securelyin a wood handscrew, into thehole, and holding it therewhile centeringit under the bit on your you clampthe jig to yourdrill-press pressis difficult. table.Place the ball overthe hole, slide Solve both problemswith this quick- the capdown on the protrudingcar- to-build jig. To make it easy to clamp riagebolts, and tighten it ontothe ball the jig to your drill press,make the with washersand wing nuts.Chuck in length of the base the same as the the properbit anddrill away.i width of your drill-presstable. Drill the counterboredholes for the lllustration:Kim Downing;Lorna Johnson carriage bolts and the large holes in the Photograph:Baldwin Photography

WOODmagazine October2000 - ) be our guest expert insiohtsfrom a master

(, problems,sneezing Kingwood, African blackwood,etc.)

(Black,Claro, nose,and throat European)

fhere's no other way to say it: The turnings I from Bill Hug's lathe are breathtakingly beautiful.Since 1979,this Athens,Georgia, Blacklimha Zatre Prizedfor many uses, especially well- woodturnerhas createdmore than 5,000 pieces figuredpieces. from more than 100 speciesof wood, many of them exotic. As Bill works with different kinds of wood. lmbuya Brazil Lookslike black wawalnut with he keepsnotes on the characteristicsof each finegrain and great one and takesphotos. According to.him, some species,such as and someebonies, Santosrosewood Brazil Morebrown fian ofier , are impossibleto cut on a tablesawor with wih a somewhatwider stipe. hand tools, but work successfullyon a lathe. In the accompanyingtables, Bill sharessome of his discoveries.i SpanishOlive SouthernEurope Hardand heavy, yet easy to work. Candisplay a tangleof darkstripes againsta tanbackground.

Highlyfigured wood Roughturnthe piece and turn it again.lf he piecetears out or warps, let it sitand furnit againwhen it's stable.

"Be Our Guest Expen" gives Extremelyhard wood Useutmost care and patience, keep tools acc omp li she d w oo dw o rke r s a sharp,and avoid gouging wood. Vermillion(padauk) Shrb asbright orange witt chnnce to share insights into their andwhite spob, changes toa particulnr areas of expertise. If you'd like to be our guest,or know someonewho would, write to "Be Our Guest Expert," Osageorange Spechculardear yellow dims WOOD Magazine, 1716 Locust to yelloworange or yellow brown. Street, GA3I0, Des Moines, IA 50309-3023.

WOOD magazine October 2000 tU@@DoNLrNt www.woodmagazine.com lllt*-=*' Geton the \ Internetwhere ..+ How to make friends toolreviews are a Havean opinionon two-waystreet moisturemeters or andinfluence quick-connectdrill If you would like to offer your accessories,or our otherwoodwo rkersown feedbackto the reviewsof reviewsof them in moisturemeters or quick-con- this issue?Then be heardonline. I ttfrougtrwoodworking is a solitary nectdrill accessoriesin this ^{-I troUUyfor mostof us.there are issue,you're in luck. Now you can shareyour waysto enjoyyour hobbywith others. tool experienceswith us and other woodworkers Hundredsof woodworkingclubs across immediately and directly. No letters, no postage. the countryoffer folks like us the oppor- And if you have tool-related questionsfor other tunity to sharetips, learn from experts, online participants,you'll most likely get a andeven have some eood old-fashioned responsewithin a day. We'll also encourageman- fun. ufacturersto sharetheir opinions of our reviews, If you'reinterested in joininga club, and add any information on new or updated tools. startinga club, seeingprojects from www.wo odrnagazine. com/ taW otherclubs, or promotingthe meeting datesand activities of your own club, Membersof the DesMoines checkout the WOODworkingClubs Here'sa tipt (lowa)Woodworking Club sectionunder COMMUNITY at the Learnanf participatein an annual earnin this potluckdinner and show- WOOD ONLINE homepage. Nearly and-tellin additionto regu- 200 clubshave built a freehome page webgroup lar meetings,seminars, and in this section-it's easyto do. It's a fact-woodworkers fieldtrips. love shoptips. No wonder www. wo o dtnagazine. c om/sc g7woodc lub/ then,that one of the most- frequentlyvisited spots at WOOD ONLINE is the WoodworkingTips DiscussionGroup. You Freetools? You'll find them here canread hundreds of woodworkingtips post- Eachand every month we give awaya fi'eepower tool at WOOD ed by folksjust like yourself.Or, you might ONLINE. To be eli-eiblefor a prize,all you haveto do is stopin and line your pocketwith somecash if we publish register.You cantake part in the sweepstakesevery month by simply your online tip in WOODa magazinaWe pay re-enteringyour username and password. $75 for publishedtips, and if your tip is cho- Overthe pastfew years,between our monthlygiveaways and special senas the Top ShopTip, you'll win a tool woodworking-showsweepstakes, we've madeover a hundredwood- prizeworth at least$250.t workersquite happy with everythingfrom tablesawsto cordlessdrills. www.woodmagazine. co m,/ talJr/ Hereare iust a few recentwinners: January: Februaryi March:

ffi Tim Anderson, ru William Croft, Mike Sistek, Maplewood,Minn., Wooster,Ohio, Scott Air Force Base, lll., Bosch . Bosch Random-OrbitSander. Bosch Power Handsaw. www.woodmagazine.com/members/toolsweeps.html

20 WOOD magazine October 2000 router bit r8vrsw

Forcenturies, the hand-cut dovr rtailjoint has stood as a testamentto thequality of thecase, box, or drawerthat beheld it. These clays, thanks to routersand dovetail bits, even a beginningwood- workercan incorporate this joint I to enhancethe simplest projects.

Dovetail bits come in an array of cut- : which is formed by two rails. Pins and table.Then, using a straightbit, we ting angles-usually 7-14"-and i tails are often confused,but there's an form the pins, leavingthem just a hair (see heights photo,below), on both %" ! easy way to rememberwhich is which. wider than the sockets.This lets us and Vq"shanks. Generally speaking,the i If you look at the face of the workpiece gradually remove more stock from the greaterthe cutting angle, the stronger i and seebirdtail-shaped protrusions, pins until we get a good fit. Oncethe thoseare tails; if you seerectangles, joint is complete,we sandthe tails you're looking at pins. flush with the pins. The tails bearthe brunt of thejoint's Making well-fitting dovetailjoints in stress,so when planning your project, boxesor drawersrequires a high point the tails in the direction of the degreeof precision.That's why you'll stress.For example,opening and clos- find a covey of commercialjigs on the ff ing a drawer createsfront-to-rear stress market today, eachdesigned to simpli- on the drawer. Therefore,point the tails fy cutting the pins and socketswith front and rear, which meanscutting the bearing-guidedbits. Less-expensive socketsin the drawer sides. jigs make only half-blindjoints, where joint. the But beware:The acute angles Here in the WOODo magazineshop, the dovetails are visible only from one on the tails make them more fragile as we like to cut the socketsfirst, about side of the joint. With pricier models, the cutting angleincreases, and they Vzz"deeper than the thicknessof the you can cut through-dovetails,where grain. can break more easily along the pins, using a dovetailbit in our router Continued on page 24 Becauseof its opposing-wedge action,a properlyfitted dovetailjoint self-tightens.This meansyou can useit to eliminatefasteners, such as screws or nails. You shouldstill glue thejoint, but you won't needclamps.

How to tell your pins from your tails You'll seethe threebasic parts of every dovetailjoint in the Partsof a drawing at right.The pin is the part that fits into the socket,

22 WOOD magazine October 2000 fl{}il".Fqi:*j F" t*:'ri.t

Corttirtuerl.fi"orn puge 22

both sidesshow (seeCommon Corner Beyond the box: A couple more Jointsdrawing, belorr). Let it slide key uses Even without the use of expensiveji-us, As yor.rcan see frorn the drawin-u yoll can use dovetail bits to make other beknr, dovetail keys add decoration strongzrnd attractive joints. For exam- and function to any number of joints. ple. use a lon-edovetail slot (socket) The kcl is an hour-elass-shapedpiece of inside a bookcuseor entertainlnet'tt stock, often made from a contrasting center.then machinea long tail on species.that createsa mechanicaljoint each end of a shelf. as shown belotr between two flat surfaces. leli. The resultin-ejoint. besidesaddin-e Before cutting the key sockets,mill a beautyto the case.also keepsthe case long key blank usin-ethe samedovetail sidesfrom bowin-9.And. if yor"rdon't bit. Then, set up the socketcuts in -eluethe shelf in place,you can rcmove scrapto ensurea ,eoodfit. Slice indi- or replaceit at any tirne. vidual keys frorn the blank (about %:" Or. usea slidin-qdovetail joint lon-eerthan the socket).assernble the insteadof a str"rbtenon for making rail joint. tap the keys into place.then sand and stile panels,as shown Ltelotrle.fi. thernflush with the workpiece.JF You'll still want to -eluethe joint. but again.yoll won't needclamps for this assen-rbly.Just be sure yoLu'panelsare in place prior to -eluingthe frame. One tip for cr,rttingslidin-s dovetails: The taperedsides of the dovetail slot tend to trap chips in the slot as you cLlt. So precut the slot with your tablesaw, or a router and a straightbit, as shown belrnr. to remove as much material as yoLrcan before routing the dovetail.If pre-cuttingproves impractical. proceed slowly with the dovetailbit, backingit completely out of the cut fiequently to clear chips and debrisfrom the slot.

Writtenby Dave Campbellwith Chuck Hedlund Photographs:Baldwin Photography Drawinqs:Brian Jensen

24 WOODmagazine October2000 I tre internet

Note:We have edited all entriesin theinterest of brevityand clarity whilepreserving the intent of theoriginal message. 1pinions expressedhere are those of ouronline participants.

What is whitewood? I owesand Home Depot sell be eitherLP (lodgepolepine) or PP that could be any number of pine soft- l-what they call whitewood. (ponderosapine). I havenever seen woodsfeaturing a light color. Just what is this? | bought some unstampedsoftwood at this store. -HowardAcheson, Asheville, N. C. to make shelves for my wife and The grade of wood is somethingelse picked the straightest boards I you needto be awareof when purchas- could find. By the time I made ing wood. Read R. Bruce Hoadley's the shelves, they were crowned Understanding Wood from Taunton even more than those that I Press.You can order this book at your rejected at the home center. local book store.At www.amazon.com -W. C.Turnef Hopkinsville, Ky the book sellsfor $24.46,plus shipping. It will tell you all you need to know o W.C., at my local Home Depot,the about purchasingwood. Incidentally, whitewoodsection contains that Lowes' whitewood, according to a is stampedwith its speciesname. It will spokesperson,is a form of white pine

What's the best uray to stop burn marks in cherrV? Cr omeone told ! r I usea FreudGlue Joint rip blade al locations.Now do the samewith the D *" I should I andu leavesan ecige that has no marks blade. Crank the blade all the way adjust my table- i whatsoever.It cuts hardwoods effort- up, then measurefrom the miter slot to saw so i lesslyand almost noiselessly, too. It just inside the teeth on the front and the back of the i doesnot crosscut well, but is not back of the blade. Turn the blade a blade is t/se"fur- i designedfor this,either. I havecut a quarter of a turn and measurefrom the ther away than i lot of cherryon my Craftsmancontrac- miter slot to the front and back of the the front of the i tor sawand have had only a few blade again. Keep doing this until you blade to keep it ; instancesof burning.I think yourblade complete a full rotation of the blade. If from burning i is thecause, or youare feeding the there is variation in the measurement. cherry as I cut i woodtoo slowly,or both.Try replac- then the blade might be bent or the it. Should I i ing your blade with a dedicatedripping arbor is out of alignment.Now run a always make cuts with the fence i bna" of highquality and see if the piece of cherry or other wood through on the same side of the blade? ; burningstops. the saw; if the wood burns again check Whichshould I adjust:the blade i --Hugh Hadfield,Fairview Heights, lll, to seeif the fence is still parallel. or the fenceto be t/sz"further i Sometimesthe fence will move when away? By the wdy, I have the i r Firstmake sure the fence is parallel you rip a piecebecause it is not Ridgid tablesaw, the one with i with theblade. Lock the fence in place anchoredproperly. If the wood still the cast-iron wings. *d measurethe distance from the burns, then get a dedicatedrip blade. i -PhilPeterson,Crown ,lnd. i fence to oneof themiter slots at sever- -John Minichiello,Fairport, N.Y.

Continued on page 28

26 WOOD magazine October 2000 Itr E internet Continued from page 26

Urgently seeking a way to remove candle wax n 11y daughterburned some r Try putting ice on the wax. The cold lUl candlesand leftwax on my will make it hard and shrink it slightly. wood dresser-no finish,just This may be enoughto loosen it so that stained-and I'm afraidto Youcan merelY t:; scrapeit off for fear of leaving ffi; ftamon,catir. scratchmarks. I havea large ", areaof driedcandlewax. Any r Use someturpentine to soften the suggestions? wax so you can take it off. It won't - CorinneDavidsan, Palos Verdes, Calif. harm any finish, except a "wax finish." *Mac Simmons,Massapequa, N.Y

Build a seruiceable router table from materials you have on hand completedconstructing a home-constructedfrom scrap (800/635-3416), installed an external I iust I router table and wanted to materials.That's it! A huge power switch, and addeddust collec- share my procedure.lf you have router table that doubles as a tion. There are lockablecasters on the ever wanted a router table, but tablesawextension table for standthat let it move in my small shop thought everythingout there $150.I looked for six years and also be usedlike yours as a table- was too small or too expensiven before building this project in saw extensiontable. I did build my here's what I did. First, I made only a weekend. fencefrom someoak lumber I pur- the carcase out ol 2x4s to give it *David B.Gessner, Seattle chased.The fenceis facedwith sliding strength and mass. This cost panelsmade from doublelayers of Vz" about $18.Next, I made a dou- o I mademy routertable last year for Baltic birch plywood facedwith the ble-thick top out of 3/+"plywood about$10 in materials.The tabletop samelaminate as the top. They slide 27x40" with a nice yellow was a dumpster-divingfind, so my on T-Bolts. I took the basicfence Formicasurface. ljust hap- costswere for the 2x4s to hold it designfrom one of the routerbooks in pened to have these materials together,screws and a few buckspaid my library and madesmall changesto lying around. Most woodworkers to a glassshop for a Vt" acrylicbase accommodatemv 36x24" table. will have access to these or get plate for the router.It is definitely of JimBecket Bensalem, Pa. them free. Let's say the cost of the "glue and screw" side of wood- these are $25. I wanted a quality working-no fine caseworkthere. And r My shopis small (12x20'),so every- router insert that hinged for it ain't pretty,but it doesa goodjob. thing hasto be mobile.I built my ease of changing bits. I recom- Looking back, I would buy Vz"acrylic routertable into my tablesawassem- mend the Excaliburmodel plasticinstead of the t/+".lhave a small bly. First, I movedthe right table EXRTA.[Sommerville Design routerso it isn't a problem,but if I buy extensionto the extremeleft whereit has discontinuedthis product somethingbigger, it won't supportit. fits nicely.In its place,I built my but a company representative -Bill Schreiber.Litchfield, N.H. routertable of two 7+"MDF sheets says they plan to reintroduce a with Formicatop, and fitted an exter- modified version by the time o I usedan old microwavestand/cabi- nal switch.This arrangementallows this article appears.Call net for a supportstructure. It saveda me to usemy tablesawfence and 8A01357-4118.I lot of tirne and providedstorage. My miter slots.It alsogives me a full 70" The next step was to have a top is two layersof -74"MDF capped of tabletopsurface, and savesme miter slot, I bought an aluminum with laminateand edgedwith someoak room in the shop.l miter track for $15.My fence is strips.I usedthe Rousseauinsert -GlynHowell, Fernie, B.C.

28 WOOD magazine October 2000 -t

"dFAIFu$ihop make new parts fromdld With basictools and patience, you can re-createwhat time and wear havestolen away

catcha glimpseof a wonderful Varnishlines can suggestthe missing oversizedin the areaswhere you'll cut it V"" lold rocking chair at an auctionor in part's basicshape. Also, you might find to shape.Next, form the tenonthat joins the back room of an antiquestore, and photosor illusftations of similar piecesin the arm to the chair's back. You can drill you get excited.When you look closer, furniture referencebooks. into mating piecesand join them with a disappointmentsets in: One of the rockers Here's one exampleof how to copy a dowel,but you'll get a strongerjoint by is gone,or a slat, or a stretcher. part that still exists.We madean arrn to cutting a tenon.We drilled into the end of Don't despair.A woodworkercan find replacethe one that was missingfrom the our blank with a s/s"plug cutter mounted a way to replacemost standardfurniture simplerocking chair shownabove. These in the drill press,then cut away the waste partsand some specialized ones, too. basicsteps and Similarprocedureswill get at the ,as shownfu\ow. In many cases,the pieceof furniture you throughmany suchrepair jobs. Carefully fracethe shapeof your tem- will have surviving pans that matchthe First,mill a pieceof stockthat's very plate piece onto your stock with a sharp missingone. That's oftentrue with rock- closeto the right thicknessand slightly pencil. Cut closeto that line with a band- ers, chair arms,knobs, or drawerpulls. Continued on page 32 Use one of thoseoriginals as a patternfor ftacing or measuring,as we've done with the chair arm in the photoshere. Sometimesyou can fiace a part without removing it. But if you haveto take it off, rememberthat denaturedalcohol dis- solveshide glue, commonly usedin pre- World War tr furniture. Vinegar or wann water helps dissolvethe white or yellow glue foundin newerjoints. If the missingpart wasthe only oneof its kind, that's anotherstory. You'll have to make an educatedguess about its 'dimensions andappearance. The design of the furniture shouldoffer someclues. Onceyou've pinpointed the right location for a tenon,the work goes quickly.

WOOD magazine October 2000 the furniture repair shop Dust free Continuedfrom page 30 make woodworking new parts from trld

FilterInside FORONLY $65900il#r:;; FlexHose & 35 gal.Barrel$29m Optionalwallmount brackets $28m Bandsawclose enough to tracedlines to keep Oneida yoursanding time to a minimum. saw,as in the photoabove, then sand to the line with a drum sander.We tapered Filter Efficiency the arm at the stationarybelt sander. 1-2microns 99% Call1-800-732-4065 The biggestchallenge in this repair was 2-5microns 100% finding the correctangle for the hole that over5 microns100% vvvvw.oneida-air.comreceivesthe supportpost. Again, we 1001W. Fayette St. NY13204 Phone (315)476-5151 Fax (315)476-5044 relied upon the surviving arm. We placed it on a tilting table on the drill press,and kept adjustingthe table angleuntil a sl" Forstnerbit ran smoothlyin and out of the hole. Then we put the new arm on the tableand drilled a hole,as seenbelow.If you don't havean adjustabletable, cut a wedgeof wood at the appropriateangle to supportthe workpiece. All that remainedwas to easethe edges with a /+" round-overbit in a router. A rubbermat on the workbenchheld the arm in placedtiring that operation.fl Writtenby Jim Pollock with Ben Von Ruden Photographs:Baldwin Photography

It takesa properlysized, properly angled hole to producea long-lastingtenon joint.

WOOD magazine October 2000 tips *xss"q*r*h*s ^4. Seat-post haste inspires As peftnnance,Top lShbil Brwf of his \tin7 rapid router release ShW Tip winnerPaul Parter Ltt rcceiresa Hihrlri GI0FGDdual- While usingmy father'stable-mounted router compound mibrsaw. recently,I grew frustratedwith the height-lockingknob. The Ttunksfurfie lig Faul! routeruses a wing-boltand nut that clampsthe routerbase to the motor,and I hadto usea pliersto tightenand loosen the bolt. Not an easytask, especially under the table. So I replacedthe wing bolt and nut with a seat-postquick- releasefrom a bicycle store,as shownbelow. (If you do this, makesure you specifya seat-postquick-release, because the modelsdesigned for attachingwheels are too long.) PaulFafiercrcsed a biryde seat Slip the quick-release'sskewer into the base,and finger- p6t with a rurbr ald carm tighten the nut until the handlesticks straightout in the up with ttris issn's TopShop frp honorc. unlockedposition. That orientationis important,because if the handleis too high, locking it down could damageyour router; A fter earning his bachelor's degree from the if it hangs,the cam won't hold fast. .f-l,University of SouthwesternLouisiana and his -Paul Parker,WebsteL Texas master's from Texas A&M, Paul Parker's education is about to pay off. Sure, his job as a mechanical stressanalyst at Boeing in Houston, Texas, probably has its perks. But it was his senior project at USL- building a bicycle-that inspired the tip (at right) that won him this issue's Top Shop Tip tool pnze. "I don't do much woodworking myself, but when I do, I go over to my dad's place. He's got all the tools," he chuckles. Well, Paul, here's a mitersaw to get you started on your own shop. Thanks for the tip. You don't need to have a fancy diploma to win our Top Shop Tip honors, just a darned good idea. If we like your suggestion,we'll pay you $75 for it. If we really really like it, we could award you a tool prize worth at least $250. Send your tips, along with pho- This tip doesn't even begin tos or sketchesand a daytime phone number to: to scratch the surface Tips From Your Shop (and Ours) When tacking the stops around a fragile pane of glass (in a cab- WOOD@Magazine inet door, for instance), it's not hard to scratch the glass, or 1716 Locust St, GA-310 worse yet, break it. To overcome this potential problem, I Des Moines, IA 5030!r-3023 attach a piece of card stock to one side of my tack hammer Or submit your tips online by posting them to our with double-faced tape (as shown below). Not only does the Top Shop Tip discussion group at www.wood- card stock protect the glass, but by using different thicknesses, magazine.com. Sorry, but we can't return the materi- I can make the face of the hammer parallel to the nail head, als you submit. And, we try to publish only original lessening the likelihood of bending the nail. tips, so please send them only to WOOD magazine. -R.8. Himes, Vienna, Ohio Thanks! Tack hammer

D'-fu( Cardboard attached WOODWORKINGPRODUCTS EDITOR with double-facedtape

Continued on page 36

34 WOOD magazine October 2000 tips .ffi=:;"ilrsn*t]

Continuedfrom page 34

Auriliary mitersaw A neat way s0uRsfftE,YOu fence goes beyond 450 to fill nail dimples GITGUSNOffiE]TIO While installing cabinets,I neededto After I milled some custom mold- ilIilPISO]PNUTGIS miter-cut some pieces to a 57" angle. ing, then stained and finished it to Unfortunately,my mitersaw only goes match the existing woodwork, I wanted to 45", so I had to find anotherway to to avoid the inevitable blemishes from get the angle. wood filler used to hide countersunk I made a jig in the shapeof a speed- finish nails. squarefrom 34" plywood, and clamped My solution: Place a small piece of it to my mitersaw fence, as shown masking tape at each point you want to below. My new auxiliary fence now nail. Drive and countersink nails allows me to cut anglesover 45o. through the tape,then apply wood filler. The new fence is at a right angle to the When you peel off the tape, you'll find saw's miter scale,so to get the correct a perfectly round spot, with no dulling thonghtfullyplaced on pegPoad angle,I subtracted57' (the angleI need- of the surrounding area. This technique ed) from 90". I then set the miter angleto works anytime you need to nail prefin- that difference(33"), clampedthe stock ished wood. to the auxiliary fence,and cut. -Jams Vasi, Williamsville, N. Y. -Sfeye Hodge, Alexander City, Ala.

]loblfts and crafts. Twocraft projects are rarelythesame. The mwable side trEs are designedto adapt to best suit your cunent prciect

Jig clampedto mitersawfence

Stockclamped to jig

HoilE fixrp prutects. 21lq Younarer krpnt wtrichtools you'llneed forthe nextfixrpjob. tt So we've provided5 draners and 9,846 cu. in. of spaceto holda wide vadetyof tools, parts and supplies. sEltRs THE GOOD LIFE 3/+"plywood ATA CREATPRICE Continued on page 38 GUARANTEEDs^'

36 WOOD magazine October 2000 Continued from page 36

Scrollsaw patterns from the office supply store z- For makingyour own self-adhesive scrollsawpatterns, buy pressuresensi- t------t' tive label sheetsat the office supply store.They comein sizesfrom small mailing-labelsup to &Vzxll" solid sheets.Simply transferyour patternto the label sheet(by hand,photocopier, or computerprinter), cut it out, andaffix it to your workpiece. ----'---:1 ,, And, if you havea computer,make ( /-' ,/ ." r,l,___,,'-1-, sureyou take a look through the office- '<---- supplystore's bargain bin while you're therepicking up the labels.You're boundto find dozensof clip-artCD- ROMs chock-fullof scrollsaw-ready drawingsfor next to nothing. -Ron Seto,from the WOOD OwLTNE@ TopShop Tip discussion group

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38 WOOD magazine October 2000 Smooth sinking in close quarters Sometimesyou needto countersinka hole drilled into an areawhere a coun- tersinkwon't fit (in the bottomof a steelchannel, for example).But usinga big twist-drill bit for a countersink rarelygives you a smoothround coun- tersink.Instead, it oftenleaves a ragged, five-sidedsink. Here's how to get a cleancountersink in a closequarters everytime.

Smallpiece of

Holeto countersink

( ')t

Placea small scrapof cottoncloth- no more than an inch or two - over the hole you want to countersink. Now useyour oversizedrill bit as if you're trying to drill throughthe cloth. The cloth cushionsthe cuttingedges so they both makecontact with the metal at the sametime, leavingyou with a clean,round countersink. Be careful: The cloth will twist with the bit, so don't try to hold ontoit. -Klass Oterdoom,Bentveld, The Netherlands

Continued on page 40

WOOD magazine October 2000 39 Continnedfrompage 39

Doubled cord is half the trouble Gleat-GUt idea for picking grain When storinga long extensioncord, I like to doublethe cord When I find an intarsiapattern I like, I first cut all of the first, then startit on the reel from the middle.This keeps partsfrom a pieceof Vs"clear acrylic. (I usemy scrollsawon both endsof the cord free so I can usea long cord for short its lowestspeed to keepthe acrylic on both sidesof the kerf distanceswithout unspooling the wholething. One word of from fusing back together.)Besides giving me a perfectpat- cautionthough: unwrap the cord completelybefore using tern for tracingout multiple projects,the clearpieces also with high-powertools. Pulling lots of currentthough a coiled allow me to choosethe bestgrain orientationfor eachpart. cord can quickly causeit to overheat. -Dave Beaune(from the WOOD ONLINE Top Shop Tip discussion group) A. YoungBrown, Jr. (from the WOODONLINEa Top ShopTip discussiongroup)

Start here at center of extensioncord.

Wrap maleand female end of cord simultaneously. t/e"acrylic pattern

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CircleNo. 1350, 2250 STEVEWALL LUMBER CO. *NOWAVAILABLE- QualityHardwoods and Woodworkingnachinery For TheCraltsnan and Educational/nsti,utions CustomMade RaisedPanel Ash...... 4/4Select 2.25 PVC gives TLC Basswood...... 4/4Select 1.95 Doors 8irch...... 4/4Select 2.50 to turned bowls Butternut...... 4/4 1C 2.20 Cherry...... 414Select 4.20 Here'san ideathat will makea lot of -Pecan...... 414 Select 2.30 (Genuine).....4/4 Select 3.70 $ e8.00 woodturners (and their spouses) happy. Maple(Hard)...... 4/4 Select 3.15 $ 8s.00 Maple (Soft)...... 414 Select 2.20 $ 72.00 Poo|ar...... 414Select 1.75 $ a4.00 To part a turnedbowl from my lathe's RedOak...... 4/4Select 2.40 $ 80.00 Wa|nut...... 4/4Select J.43 $ 95.00 faceplateall by myself,I usea 12" White Oak...... 4/4Select 2.40 $ 80.00 Cedar (Aromatic Red) ...4/4 1C+Btr. lAc $ 66.00 lengthof PVC pipe with a rubbercap Cypress...... 414 Select 2.25 $ 74.00 WhilePine...... 4/4 F.c. 1.15 $ 5s.00 slippedover one end. I put theother end YellowPine...... 414 Clear 1.80 $ 65.00 Above prices are for 100' quantities of kilndried Above prices are 20 M. ft. bundles of of the pipe over the tailstock,and move rouoh lumber sold bv the Bd. Ft. clearkilndriedlumber3"-10.wide.3-7' FOB Mayodan, NC.' long (Random widths & lengths) Sur the tailstockin presses Call for quantity discounls. Other sizes and faced 2 sides or rough. Delivered UPS Send $1.00For LumberCatalog until the rubber grades available. prepaid in the Continental U.S. PtlccrSublcct lo ChangeWlthoui Nollcc on the bottomof the bowl. Then,I part CircleNo. 592 the bowl from the faceplate.I've never lost a bowl usingthis device. -NorbertHeckler, Fort Meyers, Fla.

Prototype

Fit one end of PVC pipeover tailstock. Finished Product

A fewmore tips from our woodworkingpros ,@u* .Matching wood grain is half the battle when making beautiful pan- HEAVY tr,UTY ETIclO* els. Learn the tricks on page 44. .On page 52, woodturner Galen Carpenter offers some tips for glu- llailMa$ter" ELECTFIIC EIFIAD ing and reinforcing segmented- or GUN sH0oTs Grabhold of theall-new ARR0W ET100" TheET100" provides nail driving muscle 3 BRAD stack-laminated bowls. andexperience the beautyof ergonomically withoutthe burden of an air comoressor. designedcomfort. lts grip SIZES .Looking for an easy non-slipcushioned It shoots3 dillerentsize brads. way to drill and superbbalance assures effortless work, Solidstate circuitry, a hardenedcarbon evenduring long jobs. angled holes? Simply saw a jig that steeldelivery system for jam-proof holds your workpiece at the pre- In additionto performingroutine nailing jobs, perlormance,and both trigger and this powerful10 amp bradnailer is specially surlaceconlact salety lockscombine scribed angle, as we did on the angledto handledifficult corner, edging and to offer increasedyears of sa{e,accurate, framingjobs. No scratched or damagedsurfaces. trouble-freeservice. Toy onpage S2.Q ffiFffi; i*'",'n ffd***ffi lffi il#ift *t;:': ffi UnitedKingdom: Arrow Faslener (U.K.) Ltd., 14 Barclay Road, Croydon,Suney CRO 1JN \i\it'i'Aiiriurirrn", / r, ' www.arrowfastener.com @ 1999Arrow Fastener Company, Inc. WOOD magazine October 2000 41 ffiffiffiffiffi Mffiffi ffiffiffi ffi lf yo u're a beg in n in g woodworkeromaster this basic technique before you move on to the fancy stuff. You'll start with a few boards,and end up with a panelworthy of a tabletop.

ll boards are not created equal. Some boards follow the rules and stay straightand flat. Othersrebel. If you take time to find the cooperativeones when you set out to make a panel, the task will be much easier. Here's what you need to consider when you visit the lumber rack at the home center or wood supplier: straightness,color, and grain figure. Sight down the edgeof a board and you'll quickly spot any bowing. Look down the face to checkfor twist. Onceyou've found someboards that you might like to take home, stand them up sideby sideto make surethey get along with eachother visually. We usedred oak for this project,and found significant color variations. Some boards showed a pink tinge, others looked brown, and a couple were almost white. Stick with boardsof the samecolor. Grain matching isn't as straightfor- ward as color matching, but think ahead.Can you seesimilar patternson all the boards?If so, you'll have an easy time making joints that seem to disappearinstead of standingout. Cut them down to size If you buy lumber that hasbeen stored inside a store,you can startto work it as soon as you get it into your shop. Lumber that's beenstored outdoors or in an unheated,uncooled warehouse Continued

43 perfect will needa few days to adjustto your better.Still, if you use a high-quality awayon the tablesaw.Then crosscutthe shop'shumidity. rippingblade on your saw,you canpro- boardsto lengthplus a few extrainches. Beforemaking any cuts,double-check duce edgessuitable for gluing without That allows for planer snipe and also your tablesawand to make sure evengoing to thejointer. comesin handy when you're searching they're set at exactly 90". You might You'll probablybuy stockthat's sur- for the bestgrain match. havebeen told that a slightlyrough sur- faced on both sides and one or both Now take thosewide boardsand rip face slues better.Not so. Smootheris edges.If it hasone rough edge, rip that them into piecesno wider than 4". It seemslike a shame,but doingthis virtu- ally eliminatesa wider board's natural reading the grain tendencyto cup.Even if you rip a board It's not a jigsaw puzzle, it's a lumber puzzle. Here's an example of nice matching in half and wind up gluing those two grain and an example of a match that would annoy you for years to come. halves right back togetheragain, you have relievedtension within the stock. That will helpkeep your panelflat. Get ready to glue Now comes your chance to imitate nature. Lay the boards on your work- bench, as you see in the photo at left. Look for an arrangementin which the grain on eachpiece seems to flow visu- ally into the adjacent piece. (See These boards feature grain lines of similar Differentgrain directionsand shapes doom "Readingthe Grain" at left.) directionand width,so they blendwell. these boardsto a janing visualeffect. Again, considercolor. For example, you'll geta better-lookingresult by plac- ing a coupleof light boardsat the sides of the panel,rather than alternatingthem with darkerpieces. Somewoodworkers swear by flipping everyother board to alternatethe growth rings that you see on the end grain. However, you can ignore that factor onceyou've rippedthe boardsto 4". After you've decidedhow the boards will go together,mark them in alphabet- ical order with chalk, as in the photo at the top of the oppositepage.The chalk rubsoff easilyafter glue-up. Checkthe fit onelast time. If any gaps show,go back to the tablesawor to the jointer, or get out a long, sharpjointer plane.Make the edgesas straightas you can along the length of the board and keepthem squarewith the face,too. When the boardsfit tight, placewaxed paper on your workbenchto catch any strayglue drips.Set bar clampsor pipe clampson the paper,spaced about 12" apafi. It wouldn't hurt to put waxed paper directly on the clamps,too. The waxedpaper will keepthe clampsclean andwon't stickto your glued-upboards. We used four BesseyK Body bar clamps from the American Clamping Corp. (800/828-1004)underneath our 36x24"assembly. The jaws stayparallel After cutting your stock to size, lay the boards on your and begin looking for to the workpiece and keep the boards the perfect match, as WOOhmagazine's contributing craftsman Jim Heavey does here. flat. Other kinds of clampsmight need

44 WOOD magazine October 2000 qt w {i$t til'{i, lii: ft;, /. \/{ , liit "'*' il \, t\\,

l\, ,li. 1i:i: t:,, &6i,il+: st rii:': 1';l

Here'sanother marking method: Jim pencils in X's and O's "because I love my work." Write them on maskingtape and you won't haveto sand them off.

When you'vefigured out the best arrangement,arrang mark the boardswith chalk.

alignnrenthelp h'onr tw'o nrolc clamps placcclon the to1'rsicle of'thc asscrnbly. OLrr finisheclpanel encleclLrp:ir boarclsr,, icle. But u,'eglLrecl up .iusthalf of the panel-three boarcls-at a tirne. Otliem'ise.tt takessome scrarnblingto keep all of the .joints in pert'ectali-qn- nrent.This nrethoclalso allorvsvoLr to nrn eachthlee-boarcl asscrrtbly thnrugh a l2' planerafier the glue dries. Lay the three seclr-rentiallvmalked boarclson the clamps betweenthe .iaws er.w@ and reachfur the glLrebottle . We recorn- nrencl yellow wiloclworker''s-sluc. It I i :.r ' r,' cloesset LrpclLrickll''. thoLrgh. so be pre- 'iJ ., pirl'ctlt0 rrot'kl'lr:1. :q'i' lri{i n :,!-*l ;-:.'. You clon'tneecl special tools to spreacl the glLre.Silnpll, la1'dowtt a beaclfl'ottl 1,our-ulue bottle. then spread it into an even coirt with a fin-ucr.as sltowr.tin the plroto ttt ri.qltt the ri_chtamolurt. Ancl 1,1-111onlv neeclto apply _clLreto one ol'two nratingeclges. If you pr,rtglue on both boarcls.voll rc certainto overcloit. Rub the glLre.jointstogether and linc Lrpr the boarclsfirr the grain effcct vou plunnecl. Don't won'yabor.rt getting thc enrl:cractlv even:thitt's one reason\'ou eLrt thcnr a little lon-c.SnLrg up all ot' r our clunrl.rs. bLrtclon't appl,v rnuch l)ressLu'e vet. Startat one encl.nrake sLrrc the .joints are flat on top. anclti-uhtcn that clanrp. Overtighteningwill .iustlirrce glue out Applya beadof yellowglue on just oneboard per joint, and spreadit evenlywith your ('rttttittttctl finger.All it takesis enoughto coat thesurface.Anything more gets squeezedout.

www.woodmagazine,com 4C perfect of thejoint, so takeit easy.You're mak- ing a panel,not arm-wrestlin,e. Work toward the other end of the assembly,checking the joints andtight- eningthe clamps as you go,as shown in the photo at right. If you applied the perfectamount of glue.it will showup astiny beadsalong each joint. Clean up, repeat, trim Let the glue set up until it's rubbery. Then skim it off the wood with a putty knife or a scraper,as shown in the inset photo. Leave the clamps in place for an hour or so. For a panel 24" wide, we glued up another three-boardpiece. then ran both pieces through our 12" planer to take down any high spots.Then we joined the two halves with the same gluing and clamping proceduresas above. The final panel won't fit through the planer,but that's not a problem.You can easily clean up that single, middle joint with a scraperor a random-orbit sander. Trim the ends squareon the tablesaw, if your panel isn't too wide for comfort. A crosscutsled makes that job easierand safer. Otherwise, clamp a straightedge acrossthe panel and use it as a guide for your or router.i

Working quickly,jockey the boards up and down Written by Jim Pollock Ratherthan makea messtrying as necessaryto get them flat all along each joint. Photographs: Baldwin Photography to wipe up wet glue,let it set up You can clamp a troublesomejoint to the bar lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine for a while, then scrape it off. clamp sitting underneath.

otherways All you need is glue to make super-strongedge joints. However,long stock can be tricky to keep lined up while clamping.You can reduce your stress to alignedges level with one of these methods. biscuit -\=.- A platejoiner, or biscuitjoiner, rates as the easiestand quickestway to line up S matingpieces. t-"".;::,

spline Equipyour routerwith a slot cutterto makeshort grooves along both matingedges, then F€ use yourtablesaw to rip woodsplines to fit.That's easier than dealingwith one longslot.

dowel Oh-so-convenientbiscuits are pushingdowels out of the picture.lf you stillprefer dowels, makesure they're straight and fit the holesperfectly.

routed profile Youcan routa tongueon one pieceand a matchinggroove on its mate.Two drawbacks: the cost of a specialbit and the challengeof keepinglong stock perfectly flat as you run it acrossyour routertable.

46 WOODmagazine October2000 #t# s.:,

':';riJ Wsid6''sdqh# Obivicgiw11g.ot"*otopruff Galen's turnings of exotic wood'itiid unconventional materials. The : one at top center, for example, is black palm with antler rim. A tall vessel of (OSB) stands at bottom center.

n his Sedona,Arizona, workshop, "You just can't get the colors out of Gome into the Galen Carpenter attempts to domestic wood that you can out of wood candy store explainthe consumerappeal of his exotics," he explains."And they're "Thereare a lot of woodsI don't useout segmented,turned bowls: "I baseall my intriguingbecause they're new to peo- of respect for their endangeredstatus, work on the theory that I would rather ple. I don't useAmerican black walnut, such Brazilianrosewood," notes Galen. give somebodya reallygood taste of the for instance,because everyone in the "Why use it when thereare other woods wood insteadof a little pieceof it." And world can seewalnut in a furniturestore. thatwill work just as well?" for that taste of wood, people pay Most peoplebuy the work becausethey Thenthe woodturnerbegins to recitethe upward of $500 for one of Galen's like the color. They're drawn to them." namesof his favorite materials."Royal bowls,usually made from colorfulexot- With that theoryin mind, a walk through palm. That comesfrom Florida. There's ic wood, highly figured stock,or quite Galen'sshop becomes a journey through blackpalm, ramon, and bulletwood from unusualmaterials. the world of wood.and much more. Behze." Galen pauses,then continues. Continued

WOOD magazine October 2000 49 sesmented' from sedona

Madroneburl, mooseand elk antler,and exotic wood species from around the world make up the raw materials for Galen'sturnings. Can you guess what this bowl's made of? Pine cones joined with epory! Galen uses a sanding disc fastened to a metal plate to perfectly flatten its bottom.

"Rhodesianteak. Indian and Belize rose- The long trail to success accompaniedby a woman who was the wood. Australian myrtle and tabari. Confident in his designsense and choice curator of the Wichita Art Museum," he African oil palm. Alexander palm. of materials, and skilled as a turner, remembers."She was interested in my Corkscrew palm. Tulipwood and per- Galen has developeda following of col- bowls for an upcoming exhibition. So I nambuco out of Brazil. From Mexico, I lectors everywhere hp sells. He's also made about 15 of them for the show." get chocte and cocobolo. won numerousart-fair awards and best- That experiencegot Galen off and run- "About the only native American of-show titles across the counffy. This ning. He began taking his woodturning woods I turn are bird's-eye maple and national reputation, however, has been more seriously,and startedaccenting the madrone," he adds. "In all, I use maybe nearly 30 yearsin the making. native woods of his bowls with horn and 175 species.Then I've employed orient- In 1974, Galen and his wife, Ann, ran other adornments."Very Southwestern," ed strand board [OSB], plus corn and a furniture repair and stripping business he says. Yet, his turnings were getting other oddities epoxied together. Of in Florence, Kansas.Galen taught him- better and better. At the time, though, course,there are people who have a sen- self woodturning becausehe had to turn Kansas was in an economic downfurn. timental tie to a wood species,so they'll rungs for broken chairs."I would go into No one wanted to pay what he thought commissionme to make a bowl from it." the shop at 5 a.m. and turn until 8 a.m., his work was worth. Looking aroundGalen's large material- then get on with the other work," he Following a winter vacation to Sedona storage area, you'll spot other things recalls."I've alwaysworked long hours in 1983, Galen and Ann decided on a seemingly foreign to a woodworker's becauseI enjoy what I'm doing-or I move. "Oil, agriculture, and aircraft shop.There are chunks of semi-precious don't do it. Back then, I'd never seen made up the economy in Kansas back stones,such as turquoiseand lapis lazuli. anyone'swoodturnings to comparemine then, and none of them were doing "Whon a bowl calls for it, I'11use it, but to, but we had. a little showroom, and well," he remembers."People at home not to get the Southwest look," he says. every once in awhile I'd turn a jewelry weren't happy. But they were in Sedona, A few moose antlers lay about. "They box or a bowl and put it out marked at so we sold everything and moved here." come from friends in Alaska. I can only $30. When people came to pick up their Galen was hired by a Sedonabuilding usethe outsidelayer becausethe inside is furniture, they would sometimesbuy." contractor, but continued turning nights porous.I cut out a thick piece for a bowl Galen was enjoying his work and his and weekends"I was making bowls on a rim, then resaw it into two thin rims. I turnings. Then a different opportunity Craftsman lathe. I had a Craftsman don't put it on everything," Galen notes. knocked. "One day a customer came in tablesaw, jointer, and sander+nough

50 WOOD magazine October 2000 tools to makea living with if I had to," he recalls. "EventuallyI met a local woodworker Proportioninga bowl who usedexotic woods exclusivelyfor with the golden mean his intricatelyinlaid boxes,"says Galen. "He gave me a bunchof scraps.It was Bowlblank great.I'd neverin all my life seensuch beautifulwood!" Over time, the woodworkeralso told Galen the ropes of selling at art fairs, a 1 marketfor his work that he was unfamil- 4', iar with. Beforelong, Galen got accepted at his first one.He andAnn hadto travel to Californiain a rentedstation wagon. ) but he surprisinglysold most of the bowls he broughtat from $250 to $300 ./''a apiece.Encouraged, Galen exhibitedat 4" blankthickness + 1.618 4" blankthickness x 1.618 anotherfair in Florida, and did well. = 61/2"bowl rim diameter "Ann and I were so excited that we decidedthat full-time woodturningwas the directionI shouldtake," says Galen. Continued Bowls by the golden mean "Whena bowlsits on a mantle,you can'ttell its wall thicknessor how heavyit is. lt shouldsimply be aestheticallypleasing," says the woodturner,"And that'sa combinationof the materialand ihe shape." To get an eye-appealingbowl shape requiresa sense of proportion.An ancientGreek formula calledthe GoldenMean frequentlyguides Galen. "lt'sreally about using the ratio1:1.618 to findthe lengthof the longside in relationto the shortside of a rectangle,"he explains."But in bowl turning,it's usedto calculatethe diameterof the rim in relation to the heightof the bowl,or of the basediameter to the height."(See the drawingabove.) Galen,though, sometimesturns to a design methodsomewhat less sophisticatedthan that of the Greeks.Snatching a usedauto fan beltfrom the shopwall, the lankyturner strides outside, into the sunlight.Holding the belt in the air,he twistsand turnsit. Lookingdown at the belt'sshadow on the driveway,he says,"That shape would makea nice bowl."Then, while holding the twistedbelt in con- figurationwith one hand, he traces the shadow ontothe cementwith chalk.

WoodturnerGalen Carpenter leans against a deck railing that he crafted of localjuniper branches and western red cedar.

51 He works segments When he has sandedall the pairedseg- two by two ments,the woodturnerglues up the ring "I don't know that I've ever turned a with yellow glue.But he defiestradition bowl thatwasn't multipiece. Even in the by not clamping."That freaks people l beginning,I'd drill holes in the bowl out," he says. "But I don't clamp blank to insert contrasting dowels becausea clamp alwaysputs the wood aroundthe shape.Looking back, I guess in stress.You see,wood always wants to they were real crafty," Galen says with go back to the way it was. When you muchamusement. add stresswith a clamp, the wood's Now, all of Galen'swork is segmented. eventually going to go somewhere. His bowlshave either 8, 10, 12, 16,20, There'sno stressin my bowls." or 24 segmentsin what he calls their On gluing, Galen offers someadvice: "feature" ring. "How many segments "You never want to glue up the seg- they have dependson the size of the mentsright aftersanding. The wood gets stock that I'm cutting them from," he hot from it andsucks up the glue.Then, says,"but I like bestto work with a 12- what you get is a starvedjoint that will to 16-piecebowl." eventuallyseparate. Galenmarks and numbers the segments "Remember,too, that if you want to directlyon the boardfrom which they'll insert veneer accentsbetween each of be sawn, as shown in the photo left. the segments,"he adds, "run the grain "Then, I cut them on the mitersaw, perpendicularto that of the segments. keeping them numberedfor use in Thatway, the veneer acts just like cross- The segments of a turning begin as trian- sequence.(For how to calculateangles, bandingin plywoodand givesthe bowl gular markings across the face of a refer to "What's the angle?"below left.) lots morestrength." board. Galen numbers them in order I alwayswork with pairedsegments," Galen'sbowls alsogrow strongerwith down the board for bookmatching. he notes."Like numbersI and 2.3 and additions."The rim, of antler or solid 4, and so on. I sand them at the belt wood, helps strengthenthe segments What'sthe anglenanyway? sanderwith 60-grit in pairs,too. I use below it just as the solid wood base A fullcircle contains 360". So to make coarsepaper because the glue grips the holdsthe segmentsabove it in place,"he a glued-upblank of segmentsfor woodbetter." pointsout. turningout of straightpieces, the cor- ner anglesmust add up to 360".For example,in a simpleblank with six equal-lengthsides, the six 60o cor- ners add up to 360'. But 60' is not theangle you need to cuton theends of each segment.Because two seg- mentsjoin to make the angle,each segmentmust be miter-cutto exactly halfthe totalcorner angle, or 30".

Here'sthe rule: Todetermine the corner angle for a figure with any number of '$T. equal-lengthsides, divide 360"

by the number of sides. To find f!;' the miterangle, divide the corner angle by two.

No. of sides corner miter 6 600 30'

* 8 25" 221/2" {,:'. ,.:a-- 10 360 1go 12 30" 15' 16 22Y2' 1114" The segments, cut to the correct angle at the mitersaw, are glued up to form rings. Veneeraccents betweenthe rings act as crossbanding to strengthen the bowl.

52 WOOD magazine October 2000 Chucked onto his S-speed Woodfast lathe, the segmented ring presents solid end grain to Galen's turning tool.

Tools to shed end grain Becauseof the way Galen lays out and cuts the segments,he ends up turning end grain for the bowl body. "Most woodturnerssay that's harderto do, but if you're turning a solid-piece bowl, every 180degrees of rotationyou're hit- ting hard end grain," he comments."But if you begin with a blank that's entirely endgrain, it's harderall the way though and thus more predictable." As unconventionalas Galen's end- grain turning are the tools he employs to do it. Rather gouge, than a traditional he "The high-speed steel cutting tip actually shears the end grain, although it looks as if prefershollow-handle turning tools with I'm scraping becausethere are no long curls," says Galen. replaceablehigh-speed steel cutting tips in straightand bent versions."They were designed by noted woodturner David Ellsworth," he notes."The tips are held on with cyanoacrylate glue. Want to changea dull tip? Just heat it up with a propanetorch, then tap it against some- thing solid, and it pops out. But I do use a Sorby parting tool, too. And for hol- lowing, I go to a Thompsontool. With thosefour, I can make about anything." Galen sffives to turn all his bowls with %"-thick walls, but some of his chosen materials won't allow it. "Like black palm, for instance.If I turn that very thin, it becomes a border-line explosion becauseit's fibrous. I can break out a big hole with my turning tool for no apparent reason," he says. "I can stabilize the material with cyanoacrylate,but if I hap- pen to cut myself out of the area where the cyanoacrylatehas penetrated,I might blow out a big hole. So the material can limit what I'm able to do with it."i With the outside of the bowlturned to shape,Galen turns his attentionto the inside with Written by Peter J. Stephano a Thompson hollowing tool. After the bowl has been finely sanded, he'll finish it with Photographs:Tom Brcwnold three or four coats of Waterlox,a tung-oil based clear finish. www.woodmagazine.com 53 t SI t0 IA,l e =ffi flrmake your tablesaw a high-Gd \i r1\ \r \ ,,i,

You can buy a multitudeof accessories for makingcrosscutson tablesaws.Everythingfrom souped-upmitergauges to plat- forms that sit atopthe tablesaw.But none of these gadgetstops a sliding tablefor convenience,control, and capacity.Here's one you can build in your own shop. By the mumb*rs: Ffisw this slider pr*w$desm big assist in the shCIp With this attachnientpLrlled completely fbrward. you can placeworkpieces up lVote: Tlti.s.slitlittg ut't'c.s.srtry,lit.sott It' t'otrt'.rrttl i.t not u t'tutditkftc.l'or tlti.t to 28" wide between a tablesaw's Iu I t Ie.u t tr.sw i rh Ie I'r .si d e.s t t r t r t I t.\ t t'r r (' | ( (| I).\' utltl-ott. \'ott ntu\' \'(ttt lo lturcltuse u fully raised blade and the slidin-e- cruttk.sor tiltittg tnoIot'.\,.sttclt rt.s nttt.sl rttttrttt.fLtctrtred.slitlirtg tuble. Deltu .sell.s table's fence set for a 90o cut. The Cruji.sttrtuttutd Ridgitl rnotlel.s.lrt tlti.s orre.lrtrurttler SJ5(,) ( 800/138-2486. irr sliding-table surface extends 22" to urticle we ntounled tlte ullttclttttettllo u Cttrturlu 5I9/8-16-2810); Luguttu the lett of the blade. and its f'enceis Ritlgitl trtrxlel T52124. You ttrut ncetl to Tools t'unie.s two rnodel.spricetl ut $795 38" long. so trimmin,ethe end of a rrruke rtrorli.t'icution.\to tlrc tle.sigrtpre- urttl $945 (800/231-lt)76):urttl tou t'urr 4'-long piece should be rnanageable .serttedltere deputdirt,g,ort llte cort.slntt'- ltttrcltu.seE.rt'ulibur .slitlirtgtuble.s pricetl without the help of an assistantor Iiort o.f'rott r tultle.sttw. .fivnr 5580ro $800 (800/-157-1118). other support.

54 WOODmagazine October2000 Flrst* lst's build the aceessCIrytable I Cut the tableupright (A), table sup- I ports (B). and table panels(C) from birch plywood accordingto the dimen- sionsin the Bill of Materialson page 57. f) Mark. drill. andcountersinkthe sAz" Z hobs in A, where shown in the TableUpright Parts View drawing.Mark and pre-drillthe Vq"and %e" hole loca- tions with a t3/6+"bit in a drill press. (You'll drill theseholes to full sizelater.) Q Securepart A in yourbench and \,/ clamp the aluminumguide blocks and guide rail to A, as shown in the Marking the TappedHoles in the Guide Blocks drawing. Use a hand drill and t3/oq" brt to mark the locationsof the Vq" T-W t--23/4n--4 andsAs" holes onto the guideblocks. .Determined @ bv TABLEUPRIGHT A Mark the locationand orientation of locationof e. T the guide blocks on part A, and unclamp them. Also mark the guide 3/4',' 3/q tl blocks and the plastic UHMW wear %"{hick 5/e" UHMW \ blocks within them that's closestto A. -' Your markswill enableyou to remove andreplace the UHMW wearblock in its Tsz"holes, samelocation later. countersunk @ t/+" f, Drill the andsAo"holes in part A, TABLE t../ UHMWWEAR BLOCK whereshown at right. (2 needed) SUPPORT (2 needed) ft Remove the marked UHMW wear L,/ blocks.On your drill press,bore the /e" round-overon frontand back 1%+"holes, where marked on the guide blocks.Tap theseholes with a V+-20tap. Use threadinglubricant for bestresults. PARTS VIEW Remove any burrs with a file, and replacethe UHMW wearblocks. 5/ro" hole. countersunk 7 Luy out and cut the table supports t (B) usingthe PartsView drawingas a guide.Cut the holeswith a circle cut- ter, or mark them with a compassand 1O With a dadoset, cut the grooves cut with a jigsaw. 11 to, the mini channel in the Q Align and clampthe supportsto A. remainingtable panel where shown. \J Drill 7/o+"pllot holes into the sup- -1 Q Glue and clamp the two table portsusing the sAz" holes in A asguides. | \,1 panelstogether, being careful to Unclamp the supports,and attachthem keepthe edgesflush. Sanda /+" radius with glue andscrews. on the four corners. Fill the edge (-) Cut two piecesof l3Vzx27t/2"plas- voids with automotive body filler, Y tic laminatefor the tablepanefs fCl. and sand smooth. (The27V2" dimension will vary for with topsthat aren't 27" deep.Make this Add the haavy dimension V2" larger than the table hardurare find fence depth.)Adhere piece one to eachside of I Cut two piecesof mini channelto the table panels(C) with contactadhe- | 27" long. Align your drill-press sive,and trim flush with a router. fenceto keep its 3Ae"bit centeredon the 1n Drill andcountersink holes in the channel.Drill holes into the channel | \./ bottomtable panel, where shown spacedIVz" ftom both endsand 4" apafi on the TableExploded View. from eachother. Countersink the holes, I I Attach the bottom table panel to andremove any burrswith a file. Secure I I theuprights (B) with screwsdriven the mini channelwith screws. into pilotedholes. Continued www.woodmagazine.com 55 slidingtable add-on

Note: See page39 for a ntfty tip on how up the thickness.Be sure to joint the to use large nvist drill bits for counter- lower rail (F) straightfor the sliding table sinkingsmall holes. to work properly. /-) Loosely attach the guide blocks to /J Drill and countersinkthe3/a" holes in L n. SHpthe aluminumguide bar into 1n and F. where shown on the the guideblocks, and tightenthe screws, ExplodedView andSide View drawings. as shown in the Aligning and Attaching Q Placea pieceof maskingtape on the the Guide Blocks drawing. \,1 tablesaw's rip-fence rail(s) where Q Using the Fence Exploded View they meet the left edge of the tablesaw's \,1 drawingas a guide,cut two piecesof main table.On the tapemake a mark that's z/+"-thickmaple for the fence halves (D) flush with the edgeof the main table. to Vs" wider than the size shown in the To makethe lock block (G), glue up -l-A Bill of Materials. Lay out and cut the and cut a block of maple dadoesthat form the slots in D. TVzxlVzx23/c"in size. Using the Front Glue and clamp together the two View of the Table Lock Block drawings -tA halves that form the fence, being as a reference,measure up 2Vz" and ovet careful to keep the edges aligned flush. to the left s/a". and drill a r1/a+"hole. joint After the glue dries, both edgesto Crosscutthe block to 2Vz"long to make Use a framing square held tight against finishedwidth. a radiusednotch. the table edge, along with a rule, to (E, fi Grind the heads of two carriage Continued determine the width of the rails F). t ,/ bolts. as described in the Fence Exploded View at right. Add the long gaskets. knobs, washers,and 3%"-longknob

All on board s/a"llal washer as we make the rails z/gz"-deepdado { Make the upper rail (E) and lower rail cut before assembly | (F) accordingto the Bill of Materials. to form z/re"slots The width of the rails (E, F) will vary z/sz"-deag from saw to saw. To determinethe width dadoes cut before assemblyto form z/ro"slots of these pieces, remove the extension 35/ra" wing on the left side of the tablesaw's main table, and take a measurementas shown in the photo above right. The length of E should match the depth of FENCE { your tablesawcabinet. EXPLODEDVIEW We used8/4 maple to make theseparts, but vou could laminate3/q" stockto make E

*Depthof tablesawcabinet

Aluminumguide bar

L 1Y2' f

Centerlower rail on side of tablesawcabinet. stDEvlEw

56 s/0"shank hole,countersunk

#6 x t/2"F.H. wood screws--\ \ I 3/sv't3/16" mini channel -

Plasticlaminate

R=1/q" Y TABLE 13lro"grooves z/ro"deep, EXPLODED cut after applying plastic VIEW laminateto too

#8x11/z'F.H. wood screws

s/sz"hole, countersun k Vqx 1t/q"R.H. machine screws and flat washersfor top Plasticlaminate 1/qx 1" R.H.machine screws and flat washersfor bottom

7/ac"pilol hole 7+"deep Tap holesin guidebearing to fit 1/+'F.H. machine screws,

.\

\

\

23/4"-longaluminum 7oq"pilot hole guideblocks s/+"deep

7ee"holes, countersunk lzx1VqxZs/q")ong UHMW wear blocks #8x11/z'F.H. ( wood screw l+" lablelock Pin [J--- \ -{ A tableupright 3/qu11' 17' BP 1 Supplies:Plastic laminate, #6xr/2" F.H. wood screws, B tablesupports Vt' 9' 9u BP 2 #8x1t/2"F.H. wood screws, #8x%" F.H. wood screws, #8xsh"F.H. \\ C tablepanels a/tu 13" 27'@ BP 2 1/ix11/c" #8x2"F.H. wood screws, R.H.machine screws, wood screws \, D# fencehalves 3/qu21/c" 301/q' M 2 %x1"R.H, machine screws, s/ax13/q" F.H. machine **M screws,3/ax31/2" F.H. machine screws, t/" flatwashers, \ E upperrail 1Yz' #8x2" F.H.wood screws %"flat washers, %" lockwashers, % nuts,two 14mm oil F lowerrail 11/2" 54" M drainplug gaskets, %" steel rcd31/z" long, two %x3" car- G#lock block 11/2" 11/2', 21/z' M riagebolts, %0x1" F.H. machine screws, t/*1t/2" sleelbar H stops Vt' 2t/t" dia, stock1' long, contact adhesive, threading lubricant, oil finish,paint.

@Thisdimension should match the depth of your BuyingGuide tablesaw top.Some tables are not 27" deep. Aluminumguide bar 54" long, two guide blocks, two -Widthvaries. Seeinstructions. piecesof lzx1l/qx23/q"UHMW, two 27"-long pieces of '.Lengthvaries. See instructions. minichannel, and two long knobs, $75 ppd. from #lnitially part cut oversizedand trim to finished size KregTool Co., 201 Campus Drive, Huxley, lA 50124. accordingtoinstructions. Call800/447-8638. MaterialsKey: BP-birch plywood, M-maple www.woodmagazine.com 57 slidingtable add-on

fi Cut the lxl" notch with your band- \,1 saw. (For safety's sake, don't use your tablesawto makethis cut.) t1/o+" A Drill the hole for the lock pin \,1 and sAz"holes that are countersunk, as shownin the Top and Side Views of the TableLock Block drawings. J Sand a %" radius,where shown on I the Front View. Q Cut a V4" steel rod 3V2" long. L/ Chamferits endswith a file or sand- paper,then bend it at 90o, as shown in Positionthe rails with spacers,clamp Use a rat-tailfile to turn the 7s" holes into the Table Lock Pin drawing. We used a the rails to the table,and transferthe a slot for the upper rail. steel-jawedvise. 7a"hole locations using a centerpunch. A Make two round discs to serve as V ,rop, (H) accordingto the Bill of blocks under the table edge,and clamp ft Using the Side View, SectionView Materialsand the PartsView drawing. the upper rail (E) directly below the \,/ detail,and Exploded View drawings ln Sand all wood parts smooth, blocks. Place the long spacerbetween as reference,clamp the 54" aluminum l\,/ mask the laminatewhere it meets the upper and lower rails (E, F) and guidebar (seeBuying Guide for source) wood, and apply two coatsof an oil fin- clamp the lower rail to the saw. to the upper rail (E). Make sure the ish to all wood surfaces.Paint the table Placea centerpunch into one of the 3/s" guide bar is oriented,as shown in the edges.(We chosea graypaint similar in holesin eitherrail. Wrap tapearound the SectionView detail. color to the table.) punch if it fits loosely in the hole-this Mark the position of the vertical t/s" will ensure a centeredmark. Tap the holesin the rail onto the guidebar using Attach the assembly punch with a hammer to mark the table- a centerpunch,as described before. With to your saw saw cabinet. Repeat for the other 3/s" your drill press,bore t3/oq"holes at the J Before you put things together,you holesin both rails. punchmarks. Tap as describedrn Step6 I need to take a few things apart for A Removethe clamps,rails, and spac- of the sectionon building the table. working ease.First, detachthe saw'srip T ers. Drill %" holes at the marks / Reclampthe upperrail into position fenceand rails. If you havea saw with a made for the lower rail. Punch marks f using the small spacersas before. motor that hangs out the back, unplug 3Ae"directly above and below the marks Attach the upper and lower rails using the machine and remove the motor you made for the upper rail. Drill %" machine screws, backing plates, lock assemblyand belt. holes at the new marks. Make slots by washers,and nuts. f) Measurethe thicknessof your saw filing betweenthe two holesas shownin Use a stubby screwdriverto attach .t Q C- top and subtract that from 4Vt". the photo aboveright. \J the aluminumguide bar to the upper From scrapcut two spacerblocks to that fi From VcxIV2"stqel bar stock, cut rail with machinescrews. length.Now, cut a spacer5V+" wide and r./ four pieces 2" long. Using the (^) Slide the sliding table over the alu- 18"long. ExplodedView drawingshown opposite Y minum euidebar. Alien the surfaces Using the photo aboveleft as a ref- as a reference,position these backing of the tables-awand the silOing table, as erence, place the small spacer platesinside the saw cabinet and mark shown in the photo below left. Use the hole location with a pencil through clamps and two sturdy straightedgesto TABLELOCK BLOCK the drilled holes. Clamp each plate to hold the table surfaces in alignment. your drill-presstable and drill a 31"hole (We used the saw's rip fence and the tZ" steel rod 3tl2"long where marked. slidingtable's fence.) --l 1" -- ,/ ,l]W.- !tr\ 11/2' 3F\ Bl ono Unamler fl z EI lUl.

W- TOP VIEW TABLE LOCK PIN

Clamp the sliding table flush with the saw top, and measure for the thickness of the wear blocks and their spacers.

58 WOOD magazine October 2000 -

Aluminumguide bar, Holetapped lor s/a-18threads 54" long 1/qx11/2x2" steel backing plates Tablesawwith extensionremoved Cut off fence rails. Drilland tap two holesin bottom to fit 7a"machine screws.

/a"hole. countersunk on bottomside

7a"hole. countersunk

EXPLODED 3/ax 13/q"F.H. s/re"hole, VIEW machinescrew countersunk on backside t

t.'sAa | x 1"F.H. machinescrew Aluminum guide block 7a"hole. countersunk

3/ax31/2"F.H. machine screws s/ro"hole for lockpin t/a"lock pin 7s"hole through side of cabinetand backingplate

UHMWwear block

Scrapwoodspacer

Measure the distance between the /^) Align the slidingtable and saw (- lower rail and the table upright. From table edges flush front and , this distancesubtract the thicknessof the back, and clamp them there. UHMW wear block (V2").Makescrap- Placeat7/64" brad-point bit into wood spacersthat thick and the same the hole in the lock block. and width and length of the wear blocks. tap the bit to make a mark on (We used our bandsawbecause of the the lower rail. tablesaw'sdismantled state.) QRemove the sliding table 1n Positionthe lock block /s" above \,land lower rail. then drill a l\,/ the rail, and secureit in placewith sAa"hole where you marked. DETAIL screws.Remove the table, and attachthe Use a countersinkto cut a Vto" wear blocks and spacers,as shown in the on the top rim of the Section View detail and Table Upright drilled hole. Reinstall the sliding PartsView drawings. table and lower rail. /l Attach the wood fence (D) with %" A few final toucheso "Fcariage bolts, knobs, and washers, and you're done as shown in the Exploded View and 1 If the tabledoes not slideeasily, you Fence Exploded View. The oil drain I may have to shim it. Before doing plug gasketsshown raise the fence off JReattach the motor and put your new this, double-checkthat the tablesurfaces the sliding table slightly. I slidinstable to work! You'll love its still arealigned. Fine-tune the alignment ATup the holesin the endsof the guide velvety-s"moothaction and increased by addingshims (slicesof wood, paper, t ,/bar with a sAo-18tap. Screw the stops cutting capacity.i or metal) betweenthe guide blocks and (H) to the endsof the aluminumguide bar. (A) table upright where necessary ftCut the rip-fencerails wheremarked through trial-and-error. Our table L,fpreviously with tape. Reattachthe Writtenby Bill Krier with Ghuck Hedlund worked best when we addeda shim in rails, and checkfor interferencewith the ProjectDesign:James R. Downing lllustrations:Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson the spot shown in the Shimming the sliding table. You may need to shorten Photographs: Wm. Hopkins, Hetherington & Table Upright drawing. the front rail further. Associates, Hetherington Photography

www.woodmagazine.com 59 -

) Shaker- stvle blanket Ghest

WOOD magazine October 2000 Start with the edge- jig on page 66. Then, seethe article on the sides(B). Remove the pin from the joined cherry pan-els page 68 for usingthe jig. jig, and cut the first notch in the front Edge-join 3/q"cherry to form joints I slight- R l-uy out andcut the box along edgeof a side (B). Positionthe pin back I ly oversizedpanels for the back (A), t-,1 the back edge of each side (B), in place and finish routing the joints, sides(B), front (C), shelf (D), botrom where noted with numeral 1 on the where noted with numeral 4 on the (E), and the lid (F). Use biscuits or Carcaseand PartsView drawings. drawing.Repeat for the front edgeof the splinesto join the boards,keeping them ft Align the bottomedges of one side otherside panel. several inches from the ends of the \,/ panel (B) with the bottom edge of glued-uppanels and along the top edge the back (A). Transfer the location of Form the grooves and of the back (A) that will be cut later. the mating notchesto the back panel as cut the curved back next This is to preventan exposedspline or shownin PhotoA. jig 3/+" Use the to cut the J Vart and cut grooves:/s"deep in biscuit later. For more on gluing up box joints, where noted with numeral 2 I the back (A) and sides(B) ro fit the solid stock, seepage 43. on the drawing and shown in Photo B. shelf (D), bottom panel (E), and lid sup- f) Sandthe surfacessmooth, and cut (We test-cutscrap stock first.) port (G). To locate the groovesuse the (A), (B), t/2" I the back sides and front J Cut a Vq"deep along the dimensions on the Parts View, being panel (C) to the finished size listed in I front edge of the shelf (D), where careful to align the grooves with the the Bill of Materials. shown on the Carcasedrawing. notches and fingers, where shown on Mark Q and rout the notch along the Q Mark thelocation, and use rhe jig to the drawing. Cut the grooves on the \J bottom edgeof the back panel (A), \J cut the box joints in the endsof the insideface of each panel, keeping the where shown on the Parts View and front (C). Seenumeral 3 on the drawing good face out. Routing the Notch drawings. for reference. ! nepeat the processin step I above To form the box joints along the Using A Q the Parts View as a guide, L- to cutthe V+"/+" deepalong -T (A), endsof the back sides(B), and v/ transf-erthe notch locations from the insideface oftie front panetlC; for front (C), startby buildingthe box-joinr the front panel (C) to thefront edge of the shelf(D). Continued

With the bottom edges aligned, mark the Use the jig to rout the notches in the notch locations on the back panel. ends of the back panel.

CARCASE

3/axVa x 3/a" plug

3/aXa/qXt/2" plUg 1/+"gloove th" deep 1/2"lrom bottom edge * Denotes order of cutting the box joints. t/cxYaxr/2"plug

www.woodmagazine.com 61 blanket chest

Note: Cut oafts labeledwith an * oversize. CARCASEPANELS BASETRIM Trim to finishedsize accordingto the A- backoanel g/qu 225/a' 521/2' EC 1 H- Jront 3/tu 25/a' 54', C 1 how-toinstructions. B- sidepanels lcu 20s/a' 171/s"EC 2 l- sides Vt' 25/a' 177/s' C 2 Materials Key: EC-edge-joinedcherry, C- frontpanel lcn 93/q' 521/2' EC DHAWERS C-cherry,B-birch, BP-birch plywood. 4t' 43/a" 25sAa" C 2 D- shell {cn 16Vd' 51Vq' EC 1 J fronts Suppfies: #16x1/2"brads, clear finish. '16' E- bottomoanel s/q' 165/a' 51Vq' EC 1 K sides /z' 47hd' B 4 F. lid 3/cu 151/q' 50Vq' EC L backs 1/z' 313A6" 2413/$'t B 2 Buying Guide Hardware. Three Soss "invisible"hinges, G lidsupport 3/q' 17/a' 51" C M bottoms 1/cu 145A6"2413A6" BP 2 t/2x23/a",catalog no. 140472; two Shaker 1/su 'l N ouides 11/z' 141Aa" B 4 cherry knobs, t/+"diameter wilh r/2"tenon, '157s" HINGEDETAIL 0 guides/stopst/q" 1/2" B 2 catalog no. 125437.Woodcraft, 8001225-1153.

EXPLODEDVIEW

Soss"invisible" hinge

lqx1/qxVz" plug

3/s )< 3/a y 1/2t' Miteredends plug

3/s ><3/a )< 3/s''

11/2" 121/sz

177/e"

1r/+"-dia. 1/aX 1/q X't/2" pltJg wooden knob t/a" g?:p

11/z' #16 x t/2"brad

62 WOOD magazine October 2000 CUTTING DIAGRAM

@ J @ 3/qx x 3/qx 111/qx 96" Cherrv 91/q 60" Cherry

3/qx111/qx96" 3/qx 111/qx 60" Cherrv @ l@ @ 3/qx 71/qx 96" Cherry t/zx9t/qx 96" Birch 1/q o @ x 48 x 48" Birch plywood z *Plane 3/a |]- or resawto the x 111/qx 96" Cherrv thicknesslisted in the Billof Materials.

3/+x 71/qx 60" Cherry (3 needed) @ 3/qx71/qx 60" Cherry (3 needed) @

Curveends at *1-*l top of notch 3/q' l-'1 Backedge I-_ ll s7a"gl Grooveror@t 1/ { =l '/'1 .*{ "4--,. l /A -l rt/."\ I SIDE r ,fI @t I (lnsideface) r BACK r ll 1....", t (lnsideface) r ..- - '- laXV+xt/r" ; ?"Il^ - ,,i t lr Groove for l"i^ filler block ; lr l Q)1 r + '/axs/+x1/z" lI '\"0" grooves 1"ro' |\ f filler block Groove-'-'\7\for V+"groove ye" deep -, 71/a" 41/z' J CD-. I y' 3/a"dee? ,vo' \ I J"ro' ?/8 \-Groove l_l_l-Tl* 1 C for (E) 17/a" 170" * | Half fi 171/8" 3/ex 3/qx -3le"f iller block

PARTS VIEW

l/ay|/ay1/2'' *Denotes fillerblock order of " cutting the box joints. \ 1/^tt,-'. | \ | \ 1/a Sq 1/a y 1/2'' -_\-E fillerblock ''/",_|I HINGEMORTISE DETAIL

+5r! t @ 1Vs" LID SUPPORT

47/a' i__:1t'-'------T------, l'!:" tl v+,ilit/2"

23/e" 15 I I '7s2" l pilothole Continued www.woodmagazine.com 63

t blanket chest (no Q fo fill the voids createdin the fin- Q Dry-fit glue) the assembly Add the base trim \../ gers when cutting the grooves,cut \,, (A-E) to double-checkthe fit of all J Cut the base pieces(H, I) to size filler blocks to the sizes noted on the the pieces. Once satisfied with the fit, I plus I " in lensth. PartsView drawing. Glue the blocks in glue and clamp the entire assembly !^ Strapethe t6p front edge of the place,and later sandsmooth. together,checking for square.(We used E- basepieces using the Formingthe Lay out the curve along the top white glue to lengthenassembly time.) BaseTrim drawingsfor reference. -TA edge panel (A). (We (D) of the back When gluing the shelf in place, a Miter-cut th; base pieces to used a Vqxt/qx60" fairing stick to apply glue only along the front edge of \J lensth. Mark and cut the bottom ensurea smooth curve.) Be careful to the panel to allow for movement. edge of"the front piece (H) using the align the ends of the curve with the same procedure as used to form the top of the top box joints, where shown Add the lid pieces bottomedge of the back (A). on the Back patternon the PartsView I Measureand cut the lid support(G) to A Glue and clamp the trim pieces drawing. Cut and sand to the line to | fit snuglybetween the sides(B) where T (H, I) to thechest. form the curve. shown on the Carcasedrawing. (F) O Cur rhe lid ro finished size, FORMINGTHE BASE TRIM A_ssemblingthe 4- allowine t/s" clearanceon eachend chest carcase and3/s" ou.rf,ung along the front. Step 1 J Dry-fit (no glue) the box-jointed e Positionth;lid (F) andthe lid sup- Fence I panels(A, B, C) together,checking L/ port (G) on your workbench. for square. Center G behind F, and clamp the two D N4.urur" the openings,and cut the piecestogether. Lay out the centerlines E- shelf (D) and bottom (E) to fin- for the invisible hinges using the Parts ished size. (To measure the opening View for reference. width, we clampedtwo Vqx2xl2" strips Lay out the mortisesfor the three -tA of wood together, as shown in the hinges using the Hinge Mortise Determining the Opening drawing detail accompanying the Parts View below. Once both stripsbottomed out in drawing. Drill Vz"holes as shown in the the grooves, we tightened the clamp. Hinge Mortise drawing, and the Then, we removedthe clamped-together waste between the holes to form the strips from the carcase,and measured mortises. Check the fit of the hingesin the distancefrom the endsof the strips. the mortises.See the Buying Guide for Then, we repeated the process with our sourcefor hingesand pulls. Step2 longer strips to determinethe length of fi Ctue andclamp the lid support(G) Fence the panels needed.)Cut the panels (D, U,l in the groovein the back panel(A). E) to the size of the measuredopenings After the glue dries, install the three less %" in width. This is to allow for hingesto connectthe piecesand check expansionand contraction. the fit.

DETERMININGTHE OPENING

HINGE MORTISE

r/e" Allow gap for expansionof @.

64 WOOD magazine October 2000 I I I Build a pair r/2"stidins l-.l I of drawers next .g?"."]?il1/4" kal I deeplWl r2,, I Cut the drawerfronts (J), sides(K), I and backs (L) to the sizes listed in -1/ the Bill of Materials. | | | /2,,sliding dovetail O Using a standardV2" half-blind - --'- :r=? 1 ooveLitjig, cur the doverailsfor %1 ijlllj'i:T""."t'H.",fJ?,#,',1*#:':p,"x"',?,r;iTf camewith your jig for propersetup. Q using"tttesa-. doveiailbit, \J cut the dovetail in the Vz"hole

1221/sz" table-mounted router to cut a dovetail-shapedtenon along the Y*-l--- lfi \ ,/ | q- 1/q,,_dia. DRAWER (L) /\-J, Y/r" endsof the drawer back to fit woodenknob '!;'",,n'l:;"r{irolli33n" h^tt-btinddovetaits tightlyinto thedovetail groove in 7,."deep the drawersides. (We cut scrapstock first to verify thefit of thetenon in the Hallr Mirror dovetail groove before cutting the | | | | ron l\ I )OWn draweruacts ) Note that whle the lOaO aO le edgeof the drawersides trl anAfron't Y y !'l#:#J,li*il"*:H*J?ff J"l:T sha ke r Pl a n s edgeof the sides' . .1 Looking for even more great shaker projects? A Cut the sroove in the drawer sides a andfroritsfor the drawer bottoms. If so, visit the DownloadablePlans section in ( femporarily clamp each drawer the WOOD STORE@at WOOD ONLINE@. H;:X##;.?|J::?:#:TH: withthe capablities ortodav's erectronic reference),and cut the drawer bottoms transmissionsand commerce,we are able to (M) to size. Disassemblethe drawers, offer the finest quality downloadableplans on intoeach drawer llX,t6lt* lfl ffrf theInternet' ft ctue and clamp each drawer Visit our Plans Section at L,/ together,checking for square. http://woodstore.woodmall,com 7 From t/4" stock, cut the drawer I guides(N, O) ro size.Glue and or our MagazineWebsite at brad-nailthe drawerguides (N) to the http://ururw.woodmagazine.com bottom of the drawer, being careful to Hall rable keepthe guidessquare with the front of the drawer. Spacethe guides so part O Quilt Stand slideseasilv betweenthem. f] Rttach the lower drawer guides(O) L,f to the carcase with double-faced tape to ensureproper location and clear- ance. Once satisfied with the way the drawersslide, nail the guidesin place.i

Writtenby Marlen Kemmet ProjectDesign: James R. Downing Photographs:Hetherington Photography lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine; Lorna Johnson

wrvw.wood m a gazi ne. co m 65 I 'tI i: it

;{-l i)x Li

L ox[: ' $f* qut most box joi blanket chest on pa big box, we deve hefd router.lt's simpl

First, let's make Q Fit your routerwith a 1" straightbit. A little assemblyand the large parts \,/ As shown on the Plate drawing, youtrealmost there From %" plywood parts I cut A, B, clamp a straightedgeparallel to the I Glue and clampthe horizontalfence I and C according to the Bill of markedslot and distancedfrom the cen- I tCt into thegroove in partB. Be sure Materials. On the plate (A) mark the ter of the slot by half of the diameterof theparts form a 90" angle.After theglue position of the t/+" carrrage-bolt holes the routerbase. Rout the slot completely dries, drill and countersink3A2." pilot and radiused front corners, as shown on throughthe plate in several%" passesfor holes,and securethe partswith #8xl t/+" the Exploded View drawing. Also mark bestresults. The sidesof the slotmust be flatheadwood screws. the location of the lx33/s" guide-bushing smooth,straight, and parallel. -) Clamp the B/C assemblyin your slot shown on the Plate drawing. A Set up a dadoblade to cut a groove 1- benchvise and placethe plate (A) O On the bottom surface of the plate, T that's Vq" deep and matches the on top of it with the top edgeof part B 1- mark the location of the 3/t"-wrde, thicknessof your plywood. Cut the sittingin the groovein the plate.Align centered groove that runs the length of markedgrooves on theplate (A) andver- the part endsand clamp them together. the plate. Then, mark another 3/q"-wrde tical fence(B). You may needto slightly Drill the markedW' carriage-boltholes. groove on the vertical fence (B) located increasethe width of thegroove in partA Removethe plate,and elongatethe two 7/tz" from its top edge, as shown on the sothe edge of partB slidessmoothly, but holes in part C t/c" in both directions Exploded View drawing. not looselv.in it. alongthe lengthof thejig.

66 WOOD magazine October 2000 1/zlhe diameter of the router base

B vert.fence lsu 61/q' 18' P 1 C horiz.fence lqu 37/a' 18' P D guidepin 1 Straightedge E kev attbchmentVt' 11/z' 21/2" P n MaterialsKey: P-plywood, M-maple or other 3s/a' densewood. 1 x 3s/a" guide-bushingslot Suppfies:#8x1t/q" flathead wood screws (6]r,,/0x2" carriagebolts (2), t/a" flat washers (2), 7n" wing 3/q"graave nuts(2). t/+" deep

'--1 13/a'

3/ax3/qx2" 7+" gfOOve 3/qx37/e 2, r/q" x 18" plywood solid stock deep, /= centered #8 x 11A'F.H. wood screw, countersunk e/qx61/ax18" plywood ,J 13/q'

7+"groove t/q" deep 7/ez"-ttomtop edge'of -- @ l-\---l4" flat washer \--rl+" wing nut

Place the plate (A) atop the B/C 3/+"from Q the slot you cut in the previous ) Cut part E accordingto the Bill of \J assemblyagain, flush their ends, step (see Exploded View drawing). 4- Materials. Flip the jig over and and tap the carriage bolts into their Align the slot in the plate (A) atop positionE over the radiusedend of D. holes.Add the flat washers,and tighten assemblyBiC so your routerwill cut a (Seethe Key AttachmentDetail.) Drill with wing nuts. 34"-deepslot on your marks.Clamp the andcountercinkl/s+" pilot holesin E that A Mount a l"-O.D. guidebushing to plate to the assembly,and rout the slot go Vt" deepinto C and D. Attach E to C T the baseplateof your router. Add a just as you did in the previousstep. and D with #8x1t/q"wood screws . 34" strarghtbit (we recommendusing Q Sandall surfacesand sharpedges. one with a Vz" shank),and adjustit so it Add the guidepin and you'll \-/ That's it. Now, turn the pageto find sticks V4" out of the guide bushing. be cuttingjoints in no time out how to put thisjigtastic joint maker Positionthe guide bushingin the slot in I From solid stock (we used maple), to work. Onceyou havethis jig set up, the plate(A), and rout throughassembly I cut a 3/+x3/qx2"guide pin (D). Check you'll find it a breeze to make large BlC. Make progressivelydeeper cuts its side-to-sidefit in the secondslot you boxesof manysizes and shapes.df until the cut in the assemblyis t/+"deep. cut in assemblyB/C. It needsto be snug. fi Removethe carriagebolts and plate Now, mark andcut its radiusedend to fit Written by Bill Krier with t.,/ (A). Mark on C the position of the in the slot. Placethe pin in its slot. Do James R. Downing and Jim Boelling slot thatholds the guidepin (D) exactly not glue Photograph:Baldwin Photography it. lllustrations:Roxanne LeMoine www.woodmagazine.com 67 jig joints t/+x3/+" fhis cuts box wtth I pinsand matchingnotches in stock that's ideally about34" thtck.Although you can use the jig with stockof other thicknesses,we think 3/1"pins and ,ons#largenotcheslook bestin 3/+"stock. Your panelscan be any length and width, just rememberto make them about1" widerthan their finished width. Doing that will allow you to trim them for evenlysized pins and notchesat the box lolntstop andbottom of eachjoint later. 'l Prepare your Ready your router I project panels Put a l"-O.D. guide bushing in Now, set the distancebetween the bit Mark the top edgesand face sides(the your router's base, and install a 3/+" and the jig's guide pin to exactly 3/+".A surfacesthat will face outward in the straight bit. Turn the router upside- scrap of z/a"-thickstock works well for assembledbox) on each of the four down and set the jig on the router's doing this, as shown in the photo below. panels.Number each of the adjoining base.Now, adjust the height of the bit To adjust this spacing,loosen the wing panel ends so that you can match up using a scrap block that matches the nuts, and slide the two horizontal plates your adjoiningpieces at any point in thicknessof your panel stock, as shown of the jig ever so slightly. Retightenthe this machiningprocess. below. Then, raise the bitVtz". wing nuts. Grab two panelswith adjoining ends. Position the panels face side-to-face side, top edges facing the same direction.Align their endsflush and offset one panel 7+". (Seethe Offset Panels drawing below that showstwo panels after being cut for box joints.) Clamp the panels together and stand themupright so the endsare about chest high. (For the blanket chestpanels, we stood the longer of the two clamped Match the height of the router bit to the The bit-to-guide-pin distance should panels on the floor and held them thickness of a scrap piece from your exactly match a %"-thick piece of scrap. panel stock, then t/sa". uprightin a benchvise.) raise the bit

^-, '{ Rig the jig gf Place the jig on top of the clamped panels with its guide pin touching the edge of the workpiece that's offset to your left. Clamp both ends of the jig to the panels.Place the router bit and guide bushinginto the endof thejig's slot clos- est to you. Turn on the router, hold it againstthe left sideof the slot, andpush it forward to the other snd of the slot to cut a pin and matchingnotches. Turn off the routerand wait for the bit to stopspinning beforelifting the routeroff thejig. Remove the debris from the jig and panelnotches. Place the guidepin into the notchyoujust cut,and repeat the process, asshown at right, until you cut all the way to the other edge of the panel.For all of the cuts, rememberto hold the bushing Work from your left to right when cutting againstthe left side of rhejig slot to help the pins and matching holes across the ensureconsistent holes. ends of two clamped panels.

Check your results You shouldbe able to tap the box joints. Sliding the guide pin further bit cut. In the event the pins are too joints togetherby hand. If you have to away from the bit will result in tighter long, decreasethe cutting depth. force them togetherwith a , you joints. Be patientwith this step;it may Trim the panelsto width, beingcareful may break a pin and the joints will be take several trials with very slight to leaveevenly sizedpins and matching too tight to hold enough glue. Sloppy adjustmentsto get thingsright. notchesat both panel edges.Add some joints will prove weak and unattractive. Also check that the ends of the pins glue and clamp two panels at a 90o To fine-tune the box-joint fit, loosen stick slightly out of the notchesso you angle,then glue andclamp the othertwo the wing nuts and slide the guide pin can sandthe joints flush. If the pins are panels.After the glue dries, glue and closerto the bit in the caseof too-tisht short, increasethe depth of the router- clamp thesetwo assemblies.S

Written by Bill Krier with James R. Downing lllustration:Kim Downing Photographs:Baldwin photography www.woodmagazine.com 69 ".j i:.is

T-f 7ood that's too wet when you t /l / work it can wreak havoc with It l, V Y your projects.Too muchmois- How dry is dty enough? ture warpstabletops, checks the endsof boards,cracks legs, and results in loose- Forbuilding indoor projects in mostof the U.S.,you'll get bestresults when fitting joints. Stock that's too dry also your stock'sEMC lies in the 7-10 percentrange. However, in areaswith causesproblems: When relativehumid- higheror loweraverage relative humidities, you couldsee EMCsas high ity climbs, the wood swells, causing as 11 percentor as low as 6 percent. doors and drawersto stick. In extreme So what'sthe optimummoisture content for yourproject wood? The best cases,this swellingcan even blow apart your finejoinery. way to find out is to take an EMC readingon a pieceof woodenfurniture To preventsuch catastrophicresults, thathas been around your home for a while,and usethis as a benchmark your stock'sequilibrium moisture con- for checkingnew stock. tent (EMC) must be in sync with your Once your stockreaches that benchmark,it has acclimatedto the envi- climate (seebox at right). The job of measuringEMC falls to a moisture ronmentwhere it will be used,and you can beginworking it. Sure,it's hard meter.And to help you choosethe right to resistthe excitementof startinga new project,but waitingbefore you one for your needs,we testedthe ten dive in beatswatching your projectself-destruct before your eyes. models shown at right, ranging from $60to S285.

70 WOOD magazine October 2000 Pin-pointing EMG: One-way to get the story Seven of the meters we tested detect moisture content via a pair of pins, spaced 3/t-1" ?pd, that you push or drive into the wood. Activating a switch sendsa slight electricalcharge down one pin, through the wood, up the other pin and back to the meter (as shown in the photo at right). Internal circuifiy then measures the electrical conductance between the pins (wet wood conducts electricity more readily than dry wood), and converts that measurement to an EMC reading. Pin-type moisture meters have lots going for them. First, wood dries from Meters with pins, such as the DelmhorstJ-Lite at left, are sometimes called "resis- the outsidein, and the pins read moisture tance" meters,although they measurethe wood's conductivity. Pinless meters,such below the surface where its averagecon- as the WagnerL606 at right, are also known as electromagneticmeters becausethey use radio wavesto measurewood moisture. tent usually is located. Wittr a pinned meter you also can take readings on the edgesof thin boardsor moldings, or even Pinless meters: emitter and the "valleys" effect a pinless end grain. Look lrl?r no holes meter's accuracy.)Even anotherpiece of Somepinned models provide jacks for The three pinless moisture meters in our stock directly below the piece you're you to add externalprobes that you place tests operate on a different principle. testing can throw offthe reading.That's at different points in a stack of wood and These broadcast elecffomagnetic radio why the meter's instruction manual connectwith leadsto the meter. Or, plug waves, such as those shown in the photo warns you to keep at least l" of clear air in a hammer electrode (an accessory above,and measurethe rate at which the spacebelow the test area. with longer pins than the meter's built-in waves bounce back to the meter, a Also, becausethe meter's emitter pad pins) to take readings at several different process akin to radar. fhis determines requires more surface area than just a depths. This process helps detect an the board's density, and-within the couple of pins, pinless metersdon't read uneven drying condition called a mois- same species-the denser a board, the thin edgesor small pieceswell. And you ture gradient. A moisture gradient can more moisture it contains. can't connectan externalprobe to a pin- causeproblems when machining expos- Pinless meters havd. two advantages less meter, so you're limited to testing es a wetter interior, especially with over pin-type sensors.First, they don't boardsoutside a stack,or pulling a board thicker material, such as turning stock. leave any holes behind after testing. An out of a stack for scanning. (See the chart at the end of this article to emitter pad simply contacts the surface see which models have jacks to accept of the wood. And, by moving a pinless Hot from the oven: How externalprobes.) meter along the entire surface of a board, we tested the metens Pin-type meters have one drawback- you'll quickly learn its moisture content For our tests, we cut dozensof samples they make small holes that mar the sur- at many different points, rather than just of air-dried red oak, and kiln-dried red face of the wood. Usually you can plan a in a small area. oak and cherry, then took moisture read- project so that the holes end up on the Trouble is, pinless-meterreadings can ings of the sampleswith each meter. To back or inside of a piece. But we can't be affected by tight grain, hidden knots, determine ttre actual moisture content of recommend that your take a pin-type or the smoothnessof the wood surface. each sample, we used an oven-drying meter to an exotic hardwoods dealer and (On rough-sawn lumber, the emitter test developed by the U.S. Department punch a bunch of holes in stock you restson the tops of the "hills" left by the of Agriculture's Forest Products haven't paid for yet. ; tiny air spaces between the Laboratory. Continued

Ilelmhord B35ll wagrer -i:til-"Delmhont crlm Lignomat Lignomat. Pratlmet€r ffl-:J-rt ;+ULih; Irllni:Lbno c Inl-ilgno Dxc BLI!s7(n Ldl6 www.woodmagazine.com 71 dETEBTives This procedureinvolves weighing each sampleon a jeweler's scale,slowly bak- ing the moisture out of the wood, then weighingthe samplesagain. (To be sure we'd removedall the waterwe could.we bakedthe samplesan additional4 hours, and weighedthem a third time.) A sim- ple calculation gave us the true initial lf you need to measure deep into a workpiece, consider a meter that will accept a ham- mer electrode for moisture-contentof eachsample. deep readings, such as the Lignomat shown. As the Rating The Readings chart below shows,all of the metersread our off shrinkageor swelling-relateddefects Remove the cover, grasp the case,and kiln-dried red oak sampleswithin about in your projects. pressthe pins into the wood. We had no 0.5 percentof the actual EMC-plenty We found that readings taken with trouble seatingthe pins on any of the accurate in the crucial 7-10 percent external probes (such as the hammer models in our test, but we especially range. On the other hand, none of the electrode shown in the photo above) liked the Lignomat metersbecause the metersdid well with our wetterair-dried wereevery bit as accurateas thosetaken contouredcap, when placedon the other oak, reading5-8 points off the mark. with built-in probes.But keep in mind: end of the meter,becomes a comfortable On our kiln-dried cherry samples- The externalprobes can read deeper, and pushhandle. around 6 percent EMC-all the meters most areinsulated except at their tips, so Besides built-in pins, the Protimeter did better.But some,such as the Timber they can give you a picture of moisture BLD-5700 comes with an external Check, can't even display readings levelsat differentdepths. probe,but becauseof the probe's small below 6 percent. Remember, though, size we had trouble pushing its thick that from a woodworker'spoint of view, Other considerations pins into wood samples.(If you often readingsabove 20 percentand below 6 besides accuracy work with thick hardwoodsthat resist percent are moot because you want o Pin penetration. All of the pin-type hand-drivenpins, we suggestequipping materialwith 7-10 percentEMC to ward metershave pins at one end of the case. your meterwith a hammerelectrode.) o Reading the results. Moisture meters display readingsin one of three ways- digital; analog; or as a light-emitting RATINGTHE READINGS diode(LED) bar display,with eachLED REDOAK #1 I REDOAK #2 I CHTNRV representing a percentagerange. We liked the digital metersbecause their dis- plays leaveno room for interpretationor guessingwhat the meter is telling you. _-*"n Analog meters require a little more attention than digital versions because their metersslowly sweepback and forth $u s 6% beforesettling on a final reading. ##/#a/%If you're goingto be usingyour meter J-Lite 24.9 18 -6.9 8.7 8.5 0.2 6.0 7 1.0 DELMHOBST outdoors,you'll find the liquid-crystal J-4 24.1 18 -o. I 9.0 8.5 0.5 6.4 < 6.5 unknown (LCD) digital and analogdisplays easi- est to readin direct sunlight.All of the MI27O 23.8 18.5 -5.3 8.7 9.5 0.8 6.1 6 -0.1 LED-baseddisplays were impossibleto ELECTROPHYSICS read in such conditions.unless shaded cT100 23.2 19 4.2 8.5 8 0.5 o. l 10 3.9 by a hand. . Mini-LignoC 24.7 16 -8.7 8.5 8 -0.5 5.7 b 0.3 Speciescorrection All but one of the LIGNOMAT meters in our test are calibratedto the Mini-LignoDXC zJ.4 18 5.4 d.b d.b 0.0 5.5 5.2 0.3 meter-industrystandard of Douglas at 70"F. The lone PROTIMETER BLD5TOO 25.0 18 -7.0 8.7 9.3 0.6 5.6 unknown exception is the TimberCheck meter, which comescali- TIMBERCHECK 8350 23.8 16 I.d 8.6 8 -0.6 5.4 <6 unKn0wn bratedfor red oak. To accountfor different wood temper- 1606 20.8 t8 -2.8 8.7 I 0.3 5.6 6.5 0.9 WAGNER atures,densities, and resistance,most of

-J. '11 the meterscome with a correctionchart 1609 21.1 18 I 8.6 4.1 5.8 10 you must consult to calibratethe meter 1{O|ES: to the speciesyou're testing. This canbe 1. Allreadings taken with materials at 700F.Measured EMC readings reflect species correction. (-) Readingout of meter'srange. time-consuming,and somemeters come with graph-stylecharts that are difficult

72 WOOD magazine October 2000 HOWTHE MOISTURE METERS MEASURE UP PERFORM/tNcERATTNGS (s) ACCESSoRIES CAPACITY | / /-s S=/="t I /1., l*.A/"s/ =s I gl €9- .J i Fli./ /s; J _-Fl i 7sli ;,! a 's"/ rI c S o- / ,.r* $$/s sil:*l

Inexpensivemeter seemingly designed with woodworkersin mind. The only meter in the 8350 ptn 9V N ONE c 6-25 + tlz 1x1l P CAN 60 TIMBERCHECK G FGG lestcalibrated to redoak. No auto-shutoff couldshorten batterv life. Topsof thepinless meter pack, with high accuracyin thecritical and non-critical pinless L, 3lt 1 285 1606 9V Y ANA 5-30 11lzx2 N/A GG USA ranges.Also the most expensive in 0urtest. WAGNER Leastexpensive pinless meter in the test, o\/ 1lz 1609 pinless BAR 4-22+ 1x21lz F N/A G L 1 USA 135 butits accuracy, especially in thecritical range,seems to rellectthe price.

NOTES: Whereto gel moreinformation: 1. (N) No (Y) Yes 4. Forpinned meters, equals length of thepins. (C) Carryingcase (CAN)Canada Delmhorst ProtimeterNorth America Forpinless meters, indicates depth 0f penetration (E) Externalprobe (UK)United Kingdom 800t222-0699 800/321-4878 2. (ANA)Analog of electromagneticsignal. (F) Field-calibrationkit (USA)United States www.delmhorst.com www.moisture-meter.com (BAR)LED bar - 7/ro"pins also shipped with meter. (H) Hammerelectrode (LCD)Liquid-crystal digital Pricesaccurate at time Electroohvsics TimberCheck (P) Extrapins (ComProTec) (LED)LED digital of article'sproduction. S00/244-0908 5.I Excellent (R) Remoteelectrode www.electr0physics.on.ca613/256-5437 (0NE)Single LED cooo (T) Touchsensor G (W) probe Electronics 3. (C) Chart Wiresior external Lignomat Wagner 800t227-2105 800/634-9961 (l) Internal [Elr.i' p eoot www.lignomat.com www.moisturemeters.com

to read (and easy to lose!). The nal-probecapability for checking deep ElectrophysicsCT100 and Lignomat into the materialmake it worth the extra Heretsyour chance to metershave species-correctionbuilt in. bucks. If you don't need the external respond to this review You "tell" the meter what species probeand don't mind using a correction You've heard what we have to say you're going to test,and the meterauto- chart, the Timber Check-for only about these moisture meters. Now, matically adjustsfor it. $60-delivers no-frills accuracy. log onto the WOODMALL@ website On the other hand, if you primarily at www.woodmall.com,and respond Now then, which one need to ensure the kiln-dried stock to our review. Does your experience should you buy? you're buying is readyto machine,go with these meters agree with ours? If you're a turner or the kind of person pinless.Here, the WagnerL606 showed Click on the "Interactive Tool who likes to mill, stack, and dry your us a higher degreeof accuracyacross Reviews" button and join the dia- own lumber (or can't passup a barnfull the broad range of wetnesswe tested. logue with the manufacturers and of bargain lumber at an auction), we But that accuracy comes at a price other WOOD@magazine readers. recommendthe Lignomat Mini-Ligno ($285). For about $85 less, the DXC. At $199 it's one of the higher- ElectrophysicsCT100 givesnear-equal Writtenby Jim Hufnagelwith Dave Campbell pricedmodels, but we feel the DXC's accuracyin the critical range and pro- Technicalconsultant: Dave Henderson accuracy,internal correction, and exter- vides internalspecies correction.Q Photographs:Baldwin Photography www.woodmagazine.com 73 _ ; .-,.1a. lockwork L;nderglass is a graceful tall clock that looks at home in traditional and contemporary surroundings. ,€xposedmovement featuring large brass gears ms through glass panels framed in walnut, still, the movement comes as a ready-to- ble kit. Thanks to the spare detailing, focus shared by the craftsmanship of the case and the within.

two passes,one from each side. When ization is essential making the cuts,control the pieceswith : Our clock case consists of two feather boards to insure grooves of uni- of frames. For the top, base, and form width and depth. we Qhose stub-tenon and groove Q Clamp an auxiliary fence to your ts wph plywood panels glued in \,f tablesaw rip fence. Gather all the . Fog the sidesand doors, we opted parts A-G marked for and cut frames fastened with pocket therabbets in the edges.As before,confrol rabbetedframes houseglass the pieces with feather boards to insure types of frames have mem- rabbetsof uniform depth and width. 3h" are thick and lUz" wide. ,{ Crosscutall the parts A-G to finish B, C, E, and F'are the samesize, T length. Attach an auxiliary fence to i,redifferent milling, depending your tablesawmiter , and use a where they are used. For consis- stopblock to set the length. To insure ',results,do all similar operations at squarenessof the frames, cut all like- letteredpieces at the sametime. ( Form the stubtenons on the grooved enough zAxIVz" stock for r. / case/siderails (E), door/back rails Cut all these parts about (F), baserails (G), andthe two ungrooved than listed on the Bill of case/siderails (E). To allow use of the ,and set aside some extra same setup regardlessof the length of use for test cuts. As vou cut the piece,cut the tenonsas shownon the g'4f-tsA-G,lay them out on the floor, and Forming the Tenonsdrawing. them with chalk indicating the ff Cut the upper case top panel (H), be grooved for plywood panels L,l uppercase back panel (I), lower case to be rabbetedfor glass. back panel(J), and basepanel (K) to the the edgesthat get grooved or sizeslisted on the Bill of Materials.Glue Note that in the lower casetop (we used a dark woodworker's glue), , (4, E, L), shown on the Frame assemble,and clamp the upper casetop Assembly drawing, the two rails (E) frame (A, E, H), upper caseback frame havii stubtenons but no groove or rabbet. (C, F, I), lower caseback frame(8, F, J), fJ Gather all the oarts A-G marked for and base frame (G, D, K). Glue and I groou"s,and cut the grooves.To get clamp the lower case top frame (A, E), a square-bottom,centered groove of the cut the filler strips (L), and glue them in roper width, use a single blade (not a the grooves, as shown on the Frame hipggg)-fromyour stack dado set. Make Assemblydrawing.

WOOD magazine October 2000 -l

I I i I FRAME ASSEMBLY l

t/a"tenon t/q" long 1/+" gfo}ve 10', fOrG) f;;L",""t' ttvz'toY@ on6ogt ---' 1/cx 1/q"filler strips \ {-z

t/q" t/+"rabbets t/q" 1/4" lenon t/c" rabbets deep t/4" long deep on top and bottom face on top and bottomface t/+" TOP grooves1/q" deep, AND BASEFRAMES t/a"tgnon centered on edge t/q" long LOWERCASE TOP FRAME Seepage 110 for full-sizepattern. CASE SIDES AND DOORS POCKET-HOLE /r rnnor nlco DETAIL doorshown) Outsideface of frame Miter-gauge 11/2"pockel screw auxiliaryfence

Rabbetedjoinl I \- \ Pocket-hoteptug /

:t4" dadg ade "satly'+agbov€ Insideface of framesand doors /e" glass r/q" rabbel /a" rabbel 1/2"deep 8z/a"to( doors t/+" deep -:1 4sle"for sides ,1,1/2" h \|D J Rabbet the ends of the remaining I case/siderails (E) and door/back t/2"round-over. rails(F), asshown on theCase Sides and #18 x 1/z afterassembly Doors drawing.Use a setupsimilar to brass 1/ax 1/a"rabbets, escutcheon that shown on the Forming the Tenons after assembly pins 50t/q"tol drawing.As in Step5, cut all endrabbets lowerdoor, using the samesetup. Test-fit this rab- back,and side beted rail-to-stilejoint carefully. The t/+"rabbets Drillpilot t/z" frames depth of the rabbetson the ends of the holesfor deep rails must mate with the rabbetson the finishnails. 13th"tor stilesso the faces 1tZ"pocket screw upperdoor, of the rails and stiles back,and areflush. The width of the rabbetson the side rails andstiles must be equalso the stile frames doesn'trotate slightly when the joint is il\t\ I pulledtogether by the pocketscrew. \ I Drill the pocket f_l ) I Q holesin rhe inside I L,/ facesof therabbeted rails (E) and(F), \ Pockethole 47s/e"tot lower;,/ Pocket-holeplug I Continued and lowerside frames \ 10s/a"tor upperdoor www.woodmagazine.com and upperside frames 75 cloGkwork L;nderclass

as shown on the cur. sioland Doors drawing andPhoto A. (-) Glue and pocket screw the upper V caseside frames (C, E) andthe upper casedoor (C, F) together,as shown on the Case Sidesand Doors drawing and Photo B. Assemblethe lower case side frames(B, E) andthe lower casedoor (B, F) in the samemanner. Glue pocket-hole plugsinto the holes,and sand them flush. (You can make your own plugs from dowel stock,or seethe Buying Guidefor Use a pocket-hole jig to drill the inside A square keeps the edge of the rail flush a sourceof ready-madeplugs.) faces of the rabbeted rails. with the end of the stile during assembly. 1 n Form the radii on the top corners I \-/ of the upper caseback panel (C, F, I) and uppercase door (C, F), using a Vz" rotJnd-overbit in a table-mounted router,as shownin Photo C. 1 J Form the VsxVB"rabbets on the | | inside faces of the stiles of the lower casedoor and inside facesof the stilesof the lower caseback frame with a rabbetingbit mountedin a hand-held router.Rabbet only the stiles.There are no rabbetsat the top or bottom of these frames. Rout the VexV8"rabbet on the inside facesof the stiles,and acrossthe top of the upper case door. Rout the samerabbet on the inside faces of the stiles and acrossthe top of the upper case back frame. The radius corners To prevent tear-out on the trailing faces Check the fit of the upper case top frame of the stiles, use an auxiliary fence in the formed in Step 10 allow the rabbet to upper case and the fit of the lower aftached to the miter gauge. case top frame in the lower case. flow aroundthe top corners.Do not rout rabbets in the bottom edges of these frames.When the caseis assembled,the CUTTING DIAGRAM rabbetscreate a visualbreak between the D) GJ G)(9 (D (Et c backsand sides,and the doorsand sides.

Flat frames make the case 1 nry assemblethe upper and lower A A BY 3/qx91/q x 96" Walnut I cases.as shown in Photo D. Joint or L) trim the frames as necessaryto achieve o) (o) (P P) (o) (o) flush outside edges. Now, glue and F clamp the upper side framesto the upper EE E E) (BY s/qx91/+x 96" Walnut back frame and the lower side frames to the lower back frame, keepingthe ends *Planeor resawto the thickness and edgesflush. Glue and clamp the top listedin the Billof Materials. frame in placein the uppercase with its top edgesflush with the tops of the side and back frames. Clean up any excess glue from the inside corners and the VexVB"rabbets. lqx24 x 48" walnutplywood f) Miter-cut the reveal fronts/backs l fW and revealsides (N) to size.To position the reveals in the upper and lower cases,clamp four blocks to the r/zx Continued 5r/zx 96" Maple

76 WOODmagazine October2000 't/e" rabbett/e" deep on inside face, along top and sides ) Brassballcatch 1'11/2" I t/2" brass knob

A- casestiles Yt 11/z' 10' W 4 B.tlowerstiles 4+' 11/2" fi1/+' W I C.tupperstiles Vt' 11/z' 13t/+' W I D. basestiles Yi 11/z'11Yz' W 2 No rabbetor E-Tcase/siderails {+' 11/z' 4{+' W 12 round-over F.tdoor/backrails {+' 11/z' I' W I t\\ /\ | /2" round-overon G. baserails Vq' 11/z' 6Vl' W 2 --./ | 71/4t outsideface, along H top and sides uppercase No rabbetsor round-overs toppanel 1/t' 71/2', 4{+', WP 1 13/ex2"brass hinge I uppercase backpanel w 9" 10ilr' WP 1 #4 x3/q"R.H. brass wood screw , Miteredcorner J lowercase backpanel WP t/2"round-over -Clock movement Yi 9u 47Y4' 1 on back face. K basepanel 1/+' 9' 6V4' WP 1 alongsides /2" round-overon t/' t/" outsideface, along L fillerstrips 7' W 2 sidesonly M reveal t/s" rabbet fronts/backs W 1s/e' 10' M 4 t/a"deep LOWER 1Y2" N revealsides W 1s/e' 71/s' M 4 on insideface. CASE alongsides 1314a O. molding fronVback Yt 21/z' 1Nq' W 2 t/a" 'r/e"rabbet P. moldingsides {+' 2%" 10' W 2 deep Q movement on inside supports %' 2%" 8%' W 2 #8 x 1/2" face, along R lower F.H.brass sides only verticalstops 7+' %' 47tl+' M 6 wood Clock S upper screw 3/a' weight Brass ball verticalstops !t' 10W M 6 catch T doorhoriz. stops Yt 3/a' I' M 4 U sidehoriz. stops 1/t' Te' 4{+' M I t/2"brass knob V bobcover 3"diameter B 1 W knotcovers 1'diameter B Pendulum 'Parts la" hole, initiallycut oversized. Trim to finished size centered accordingto instructions. tPartsof the same size, but requiring different machin- Stop round- ingoperations. See the illustrations. over here. MaterialsKey: W-walnut, WP-walnut plywood, M+naple,B-hardwood ball. Supplies:1lz' pockelscrews(24), walnut pocket-hole pfugs(24), #18xlz" brass escutcheon pins, #Bxlt/2" tlal- 1 (10),#4x/n'brass 13' headbrass wood screws roundhead woodscrews (4l,1Vax2' brass hinges (6), brass ball catches(2), t/z' brass knobs (2), single-strengh glass, oilfinish. BuyingGuide No rabbetor round-over Movement:Brass Clock Kit Movement, $299.00 plus $15.00shipping, MT residents add tax, The Clock 13/ax 2" brass hinge Shop,31'l Cottonwood St.,Anaconda, MT 59711. Or call406/563-2498 to order. Weight:complete polished brass weight shell (caps, --o EXPLODED rod,hook), #087053, $12.25, 9lb.-1202. lead weight, BASE VIEW #087055,$12.98, add shipping, NC residents add tax, S.LaRose,lnc. Call 888752-7673 toorder. j #B x 1Vr" F.H:-- Pocket-holeplugs: walnut pocket-hole plugs, #P WAL, brass wood screw $5.95(pack of 50), plus shipping, lAresidents add tax, Sides of base KregTool Co. Call 800/447-8638 to order. moldingare beveledat 10"

s/t" rabbet t/e" deep

Miteredcorners 77 clockwork under glass cases,where shown in the Side Section Turn the caseover, androut the edgesof the sides, and rout the top round-overs, View detailsand in Photo E. the back frame in the samemanner. Rout as shown in Photo F. When routing is Apply glue to the case,position the all the stopped round-overs with the complete, each top corner has a three- reveal backs and sides against the routerbase riding on the sideof the case. way round-over. blocks,and clamp them in place.Apply This prevents pilot the routerbit bearing ft Cut the basemoldings (O) and (P) to glue to the miters,and clamp the reveal from slipping into the VtxVe"rabbet and L,l size but l" longer than listed on the front in place. Remove the blocks as forms a consistentshape where the Bill of Materials.Cut the rabbetson the soon as the reveals are in place, and round-oversstop. top edges,as shown on the Exploded cleanup any excessglue. fi Clamp the upper door to the upper View and Side SectionView drawings. Q Glue and clamp the lower casetop \,/ casewith the clampsat the top and Miter-cut the moldingsto fit aroundthe \,1 frame in place at the top of the lower bottom. Rout the round-overson all the baseframe, and glue and clamp them in case,as shownon the SideSection View vertical edges.Reposition the clampsto place. When the glue is dry, bevel the detail. Clamp blocks to the case as in Step2 for accuratepositioning. Clamp the door to the lower caseand SIDE SECTION VIEW --l-1l rout the stoppedround-overs on the t/e'rabbet vertical edges, as shown on the TOP FRAME /a" rabbet t/e"deep Ve"deep Exploded View drawing. Use a block clamped to the case to stop the router.

UPPER CASE BACK FRAME

UPPER Clock CASE movement DOOR

#4x/a" R.H. brass wood screw

Use a to accurately position the blocks. A spacer clamped across the case keeps it from spreading 7az'pilothole when the reveal fronts are glued in place. LOWER CASE TOP FRAME 7o+'shankhole, LOWER countersunk CASE BACK FRAME 9/ta"

LOWER CASE DOOR

#8x1/2" F.H. When routing the top of the upper case, VaxVa"strips of wood taped into the rab- bets keep the pilot bearing from dropping 10._*l into them.

78 W(X)D magazine October 2000 moldings on the tablesaw, then sand I l" apart on the lower vertical stops(R). away the saw marks. Clamp the com- Set the stopsaside. -l pleted base to the bottom of the lower 1 Drill the holes in the wood balls case,centered front-to-back and side-to- | | for the pendulum bob cover (V) side. Drill pilot and shank holes, and and the knot covers (W), as shown on screw the base to the lower reveal, as the Bob and Knot Covers drawing. shown on the Side Section View detail. Great ldeas For Your Shop, page 16 JFasten two pieces of stock showsyou how to make ball drilling jigs I 3/+x23Ax8Vz"together with double- for this chore. After drilling, chuck the faced tape. Copy the Movement Support balls into the drill press,and finish sand (Q) from page I10, and adhereit to the them. Use a V+"bolt as a mandrel for the top piece with spray adhesive.Bandsaw 3" ball and a /+" dowel as a mandrel for The removableupper case makesmount- the corner radii, and sand away the saw the l" ball. ing and adjustingthe movementeasy. marks. Clamp the movementsupports to the lower casetop frame at the top of the Final assembly: One step back, lower case, centered side-to-side and four steps fonlrard lead weight in a decorativebrass shell to spacedwhere shown on the Side Section I Remove the doors, movement power our movement. (See the Buying View detail. Drill the pilot and counter- I mounts. and all hardware. Mark the Guide for our source.) sunk shankholes, and drive the screws. movement mounts so they can be Note: Direct all questions concerning Q Clamp the upper case to the lower reassembled in the same locations. assemblyor adjustmentof the kit move- L,f case.The upper case is removed to Separatethe upper case and base from ment to: Mike Kovacich, The Clock mount and adjust the movement so this the lower case.Finish sandall parts and Shop, 3Il Cottonwood St., Anaconda, must be an easy fit. If the fit is too tight, assembliesto 320-grit. Apply two coats MT 5971I, phone (406)563-2498. sand the exposedsurfaces of the upper of a penetratingoil finish, following the /l Centerthe movementside-to-side on al'the reveal. Drill the pilot and shank holes instructions on the can. (We used movement supports (Q), and through the lower casetop frame into the OlympicAntique Oil Finishno.41004.) mark and drill pilot holes for the mount- upper reveal sides (N), as shown on the f) Refastenthe baseand the movement ing screws, as shown on the Exploded Exploded View drawing, and drive in Z -ount to the lowercase.Have single- View and Side Section View drawings. the screws. strength glass cut /s" less in length and Screw the movementto the supports,as (^) Luy out the locationsof the hingeson width than the rabbetedopenings in the shown in Photo G. Slide the bob cover Y tft" doors, as shown on the Exploded doors and sides.Install the glasswith the (V) and the bob onto the pendulum rod, 'escutcheon View drawing. Mortise the hinges to the stops, driving the pins and thread the knurled nut onto the rod. same depth as the rabbet in the edgesof through the pre-drilled holes into the Hang the pendulum on the movement. the doors. Mount all the hinges, clamp frames.Hang the doors on the casesand Thread one knot cover (W) onto the the doors to the case, and transfer the reinstall the knobs and catches. weight end of the cord, and tie a loop. hinge locations to the case stiles. Make Q Now it's time to build the move- Hang the weight on the loop, and slide the casemortises %0" deep.This allows \,f ment. See the Bill of Materials for the cover down over the knot. Thread the Vtz" betuteen door and stile when the our source.All partsare pre-cut and only other knot cover over the free end of the door is closed. Mount the doors on the require de-buning and polishing before cord, tie a knot, and slide the cover down case,and install the catchesand knobs. assembly. Detailed instructions are over the knot. Cut and fit the glassstops (R, S, included, and no special tools 1 n are need- fi Level the clock casewith shims and | \,, T, U). Drill all the glass stopsfor ed. The movement kit does not include t ,/ adjust the beat of the movement #l&xr/z" brassescutcheon pins, as shown the weight that powersit, but the instruc- according to the instructions that come on the Case Sides and Doors drawing. tions include a method for making your with the kit. Fastenthe upper caseto the Space the escutcheonpin holes about own wood-encasedweight. We used a lower case. Correct for slow or fast running by adjusting the pendulum bob up or down with the knurled nut. When it reachesthe end of its travel, reset BOB AND KNOTCOVERS @ the weight by lifting it while pulling S'dia. wood ball down on the free end of the cord. @ To avoid tarnishingthe brassshell, wear l"-dia. wood ball a glove or use a cloth when handling --{s2" hole the weight.dl th'hotevz'deep @- Designed, built, and written by Jan Hale Svec lllustrations: Kim Downing; Lorna Johnson Photographs: Hetherington Photography; Andrew & Go. Photography www.woodmagazine.com 79 Buildthis little puddle-jumper Beginyour flight by buildingthe fuselage { Follow the Bill of Materials to make the bottom end of the laminatedfuselage for any flyrngenthusiast, and I ttre fuselagelaminates (A-D) but cut on the saw table and againstthe adjusted you'llsee their spirits soar. 06 them /q" oversized in width and saw fence.In two cutting passes,saw the lengXh. Iaminate the parts together, as slot where shown on the FuselageSide give this toy to a child, and shown in the Fuselage Side pattem pattern. sh watch an imaginationtake drawing on pa,ge 107. Trrn this lami- E Drill the two window holes nation to lYt" wide and 9" long. t ,/ through the lamination. 3/t" flight.Either way, you'll be an O Drill a centered V+"hole, deep, ft Bandsaw the top and bottom of the Lfor the propelleron one end of the L,/ fuselage to shape,as shown in the aviationhero. fuselagelamination. photo at right. Save the sawn-away pieces next Q Appty the Fuselage Top and for the step. \.f FuselageSide patterns to the fuse- / Using double-facedtape, reattach the lage lamination with spray adhesive. f sawn-awaypieces from the previous To cut the 3/to"elevator slot, set your step, and saw the sides to shape by tablesawblade lVz" high and stand Continued

80 WOOD magazine October 2000 -1

WINGPROFILE DETAIL

t/e"round-over on front edges

t/a" hole drilled at 28"

s/0"slot 11/z"deep

Bevelends to matchunderside of wings. tA" hole Bevel ends so both 70" deep t/e" dowgl dowelsfit in one hole. 4t/2" long

t/+"dowel 2tAe" long EXPLODED 1/q"hole 7e" deep VIEW

t/a"dowgl2t /io" long

rh" hdle s/a"deep See pages 107and 108 for full-sizepatterns. 14" dowel 3/e"long

FIJSELAGEI AMINATF * * l/zn 11/z' 9u Cutparts labeled with oversized.Trim to finished {16" 11/z' 9o sizeaccording toinstructions. thu 11/z' 9o MaterialsKey: M-maple, W-walnut, C-cardinalwood. D* %ao 11/z' 9o Supplies:%" dowel2' long, /e"dowel 2'long. PONTOONS E ,/{ l\d' 7Vt W 2 BuyingGuide Hardwoodkit. All the pans cut slightly oversized ELEVATOR fromthe thickness and soecies listed in the Bill of F Vta' 1Yr" 4' C 1 Materials.This includes the fuselage laminates t/e" RUDDER gluedup in a block.Also includes 2'of and t/a"dowels. ppd. T$" 111/rc"SVso C Kitno. W127, $18.95 Quantity discountsavailable. Heritage Building Specialties, 205N. Cascade, Fergus Falls, MN 56537.0r 2' 107s' C call800/524-41 84to order. Bandsaw the fuselage side profile to PROPFI I FR shape carefully, and save the scraps. 1/4o 3/q'

wurw.woodma gazi ne.co m B1 fl8btplane

following the FuselageTop pattern. 1 n Remark the V4" pontoon-strut must be on the left side of the blade,with Remove the pieces still attachedwith | \r, holes on both sidesof the fuse- the waste falling off the right side. double-facedtape. lage.Place the fuselagein the drilling jig Reattachthe wastewith doube-facedtape. Rout round-overs Q %0" on the side with its top down and the side of the fi Returnthe bandsawtable to horizon- \J edsesand alons the windows of the fuselageagainst the shortside of thejig's u,l tal. Cut thepontoon bottoms to shape fuselag:e,where sh6wn on the Fuselage V-cut, as shownin the photoat left.Drill by following the sideprofiles. Side pattern.Do not round holes over the top /+" centeredon the %0" round- 4 Remove the attachedwaste pieces edgesof the fuselage. over. To drill the other pontoon-strut \,/ and patterns.Sand out the bandsaw (') From a 9"-long scrapof 2x4, build holes, rotate the fuselage end-for-end marks on all surfaces. Y tn. drilling jig aciording to the and place the other side of the fuselage drawingsat bottom. againstthe shortside of thejig. Giveyou_r plane a lift by t/s" 1 I Use the samejig to drill the makifigthese parts 3/to" | | wing-strut holes.For both holes, { From cardinalwood,cut and sand position the bottom of the fuselage I the elevator (F) and rudder (G) to againstthe short side of the jig. Again, shapeusing the full-sizepatterns. rotate the fuselage end-for-end after f) Cut the wing (H) accordingto the drilling the first hole. 1- Bjtt of Materials.Attach the wing to I f) Sand out all of the bandsaw a t/qx4xI2" plywood carrier board with I l marksmade to this point. Now,float over to the pontoons TAxIVaxTVz" J Cut two piecesof walnut I for the pontoons (E). Fold the Right and Left Pontoonpatterns, found on page 108, and adherethem to the pontoonstock. /') Drill the five t/+" holes r/s" deep in E- the sides of each pontoon.Use the drilling jig to drill the angledstrut holes in the top of eachpontoon. 3/s"-long Q Saw six plugsof Vq"dowel \,f and slue them into the three outside holesof eachpontoon. To cut eachpontoon to shape,first set 'tA your bandsawtable at an 8o angle. Use the drilling jig to bore the angled Cut along the patternlines on the tops of pontoon-strut holes (shown here) the pontoons.During the cut, the pontoons and wing-strut holes.

DRILL JIG CUTTINGTHE DRILLINGJIG

STEP 1 Fence

11/2x31/2x9"

82 WOOD magazine October 2000 double-facedtape and bevel the wing at and cutting toward the propeller tip. The sideof the wing. (Seephoto below.)Use 8o, as shown in the Beveling the Wing propeller must be on the lgft side of the instant glue to attachthe strutsto the un- drawing. Rout %" round-oversalong the blade, as shown in the photo below left. dersidesof the wings. top and bottom of front the edge of the Repeatthis cut for each of the four pro- Q Insert the propeller axle through the wing. Sandany saw or router-bit marks. peller edgecuts, and savethe scrap. \,1propeller, and attach both to the propeller (I) Q Cut the blank according fi Use double-facedtape to reattachthe plane by gluing the shaft of the axle into \,1 to the Bill of Materials.Fold and ad- t l scrap pieces. Return the bandsaw the Vc"hole on the front of the fuselage. here the Propellerpattern to the blank. tableto a horizontalposition,lay the pro- Final-sandthe project, and apply the -t/ Set your bandsawfor an 18" cut. peller on its side, and cut the face of the finish of your choice. (We sprayed -T1l Stand the propeller on edge and cut propeller to shape.Drill the %0" hole for on three coatsof aerosollacquer.) That's along the pattern line starting at the hub the propeller axle, removethe paperpat- it, you're setto takeflight.i tern, and sandthe propeller smooth. A To make the propeller axle, first drill Lrl a V+"hole, Vs"deep, into the end of a Vz"-lengthofVz" dowel. Cut a l" length of V+"dowel, and glue one end into the hole in the Vz"dowel. J After the glue dries, chuck the shaft I of this axle into your drill press. Sandthe Vz" dowel portion to a point, as shown on the PropellerAxle drawing. Q To make the various struts,cut four \,|pieces of Vq"dowel 27Aa"long, two piecesof Vq"dowel 213/ra"long, andfour piecesof Ve"dowel 4Vz"long. Preparethe planefor final approachand landing { Using the ExplodedView drawingas I a guide, glue together the pontoons, fuselage, and the struts that connect them. Be sure the pldne sits level and parallel with the pontoons.Glue on the elevator,rudder, and wing. /') Sand the ends of the wing struts so 1- thev fit into the hole on each side of For safety's sake,use a scrap of wood to the fuselage.Sand the opposite ends of Sand the ends of the wing struts at an helpguide the propellercuts. the wing struts so they match the under- angle so they match the wing underside.

t/z" dowel profile SideView /z" long -. Sand rrt l+" hole f t/e"deep Y2' I fl

t/+" dowel 1" long il it fr PROPELLERA)(LE PROPELLER PATTERN

Wdtienby Blll lcier with Erv Robotts Proi€c{de6lgn: Richard Rollf lllustlations:Roranne Le oine; Lome Johnaon Phorographs:tl€tt|dingbn Phologr+}ty

www.woodmagazine.com 83 mq$tqrful il walkl ngstlcks fl olre-of-a-kindcaruings that havea humanside to them f, bout 18 months ago, the Telfair And they're always on the lookout for A Museum of Art in Savannah, stock that has bulges, bends, and other I lGeorgia, staged an exhibition fea- interesting featuresto work around. turing some exffaordinary, African We hope you enjoy your tour of these American-inspired, carved walking exquisite American-crafted originals. sticks. We were so taken by the beauty of They're a sight to behold. And if these folk-an canes that we decided to you're interested in learning more sharephotos of them, and a bit about ttreir about walking sticks, we've included creators,with you. several books in the box at right to get Interestingly, someof the artistsrepre- you going. sented here began their walking stick carving careers for humanitarian rea- Editor's Note: Our thanks go to Harry sons.John Hall, of Clyo, Georgia, for Delorme, seniorcurator of educationat the TelfairMuseum of Art in Savannah, example, recalls, "There were a number Georgia,for providingus with the back- of old people around here who didn't ground information,photographs, and have walking sticks, so I carved some contactsfor this article. for them. They wanted them, so I made Written by Larry Clayton them and gave them away." and George Brandsberg Similarly, Arthur Dilbert, who esti- Photographs: Gourtesy of Telfair Museum mates that he's carved'over 2,000 of Art; Erwin Gaspin piecesin his career,says he knows for sure some people need walking sticks. He offers something different from the ordinary canesthey can buy at the mall. Many of the carvings shown on these pages depict snakes, alligators, and other reptiles.And that's not surprising because they all were created by Savannah, Georgia-area carvers who grew up around thesecreatures. And believe it or not, all of the walk- ing stick makers represented here are self-taught. No exclusive aft school degreesfor thesemen. Their down-to- earth approachto things also shows up in the tools they use. They rely mainly on pocket knives and chip-carving sets, , broken glass scrapers, and a power tool or two thrown in for good measure. Canes from left: Willis In caseyou're wondering what kinds of Jones, Jr., Vernon woods thesecraftsmen use, they're most- Edwards, John tlall, ly locally available species. Favorites Willis Jones, Sr., Arthur Dilbert; Arthur include cedar,oak, mahogany,and gum. Dilbert (top right)

WOOD magazine October 200 aboutthe artists

Vernon Edwards This talented craftsman, who passed away this past year, learned about the joys of woodworking from his father,a car- penter and craftsman.But it was an elderlyAfrican American woodcaruerwho Vernonwatched makingcanes with reptilian motifswho inspiredhim to this art form. Vernoncarved off and on for most of his life in Philadelphia,where he earnedhis liv- ing as a meat cutter and race car driver.His signatureworks are his walkingsticks resemblingsnakes.

Willis (Hakim) Jones, Jr. ArthurPeter Dilbert Born in 1953, this talented carver of Born in 1928, Arthur got his start in canes first learned of the beauty of woodworkingby makingsimple toys, wooden itemsas a youngsterwhile pl4r- such as slingshots and wooden ing with carved wooden ships his dad, boats. A longshoremanby trade Willis, Sr., had carved while he was at (now retired),he begancarving walk- sea. For a short period of time, Willis ing sticks in the '60s. The builtfurniture for a localdecorative artist. SmithsonianInstitution, the Atlanta But he eventuallygravitated to cane History Center, and Savannah's making.Most of his work featuresgeo- TelfairMuseum of Art all featurethis metric designs-diamonds, spirals, craftsman'swork. checkerboards,and lengthsof chain.

Willis Jones, Sr. John Hall Raisedwithin a block of the Savannah This talented carver (born in 1954) River,one of America'sgreat seaports, began makingwalking sticks just for Willis' first exposure to woodworking the fun of it when he was a teenag- and crafts was watching men making er. And like many other talented boats,fishnets, and caruedcanes. As a woodworkers, John gave away teen, he began makingand sellingtwig most of his work to family,friends, furniture.After a stint in the Army,Willis and those in need. He's carved went to sea, travelingto ports in South around 300 walking sticks, many of America and elsewhere.lt was during which tell stories,as well as numer- this time that he worked alongsidea ous in-the-roundhuman and animal carver from Trinidad,and got serious figures.John currentlylives in Clyo, about carving. Georgia,where he has a studio in an abandonedschool building.i

unYrv.wood ma ga zi n e. com r qul GkrQh arill

We test nine add-ondrill chucks perfect for woodworkers who find a keyless chuck just too slow.

\ Z ou don't have to be graying at the f temples to remember when a drill Iwas used only for boring holes, and its chuck key was lashed to ttt" power cord with a thick tourniquet of electrical tape. Most of today's cordlessdrilUdri- vers lost their chuck keys long ago, thanks to the invention of the keyless chuck. But it's a new century and our need for speed is greater than ever, so we examined nine quick-change chucks that allow you to swap bits in half the time of traditional keylesschucks. All of the models in our test accept bits, drivers, and accessories with a standard Vt" grooved hextail, as shown on the drill bit left.lnside each connec- tor, a ball-bearing (or bar, in the case of DeWalt's Rapid Load) engages the groove to hold the bit fast. The bear- ing/bar releasesthe bit when you push or pull the connector's collar. (Throughout this article, we'll use the word pull to describethe action of mov- ing the collar toward the drill body; push means to move the collar away from the drill.)

Hanson Lock'N Load

DeWalt Rapid Load The drill/sinl

Jack be nimble. push the collar until it snapsopen, then chuck be quick' remove the bit. The manufacturersof these quick con- To insert a new bit, we liked the mech- nectors tantalize you with the offer of anisms in the Bosch Clic-Change, one-handedbit changes.But most of the DeWalt Rapid Load, and Make It models required a fair amount of manu- Snappy40011, where bits lock in place al dexterity to release, remove, and without any collar action. Merely push replacethe bit with only one hand. the hextail shank into the chuck until it Sevenof the nine connectorsin our test clicks. Craftsman'sSpeed-Lok is next releasethe bit when you pull a spring- best, requiring only that you snap the loaded collar. You can do it with one collar back to its locked position after hand,as shown at right, but pulling the inserting the bit. The rest of the chucks collar one way with your pinky finger require the samecollar motion to load a while pulling the bit the other way with bit as to unloadit. One-handedbit removal on your thumb and forefinger feels most con- awk- nectors,such as DeWalt'sRapid Load, is ward. Of those sevenmodels, Makita's A few more possible, but uncomfortable. The Ultralok and Stanley Joretech's things to consider hand-stretchingmotion required may be difficult STC1629also will releaseon the push oGetting a grip.As you can see from for thosewith limiteddexterity. stroke.We liked thesebetter becausethe the photos below and left, the collars of collar and bit are moving in the same these quick-connectorscome in all col- a larger diameter.Knurling helps on the direction regardless of whether you're ors, shapes,and grip materials.Only you metallic collars, but we found the mea- removing or inserting a bit. can decide which one feels best in your ger cross-hatchingon Hanson'sLock 'N However, for true one-handedrelease, hand, so we encourage you to do a Load hard to hold onto with wet or the collars on Bosch's Clic-Changeand hands-ontry before you buy. sweatyhands. Craftsman'sSpeed-Lok lock in the open We gave a slight edge to the soft-grip oBit retentian after release. We were position,which meansyou don't haveto collars, not only becauseof their com- surprisedto find that two of the quick- fight spring tension to remove bits. Just fort, but also becausethey tend to be of connectors-Bosch's Clic-Change and Insty-Bits-held the bit loosely in the Makita UltraLok Stanley Joretech chuck even after being released.When used in a drill press, this feature could Make lt Snappy savethe bit's cutting flutes from the rav- 40011 ages of a concrete shop floor. On the other hand, a connector that lets the bit drop free might be a plus if you need to replacea hot bit, so decidewhich is most important to you. Continued

87 quick-changeartists

oRunout and tolerances. Some of the units in our test have looser hextail-to- connectortolerances than others.But for handheld drilling, we simply couldn't make ill-mating bits an issue. Why? It you break a Make lt Snappy bit (top), you can loosen the collet and replace only the Becausethe pressureyou put on the bit bat.With other manufacturers'single-piece bits, you toss it away and buy another. when you placeit on your mark tendsto tighten everything up. However, when if you havethe Make It Snappy40011, Now' you can rate mounted into a drill press (where you you simply free the bustedbit from its our performance start the bit spinning before it entersthe collet-typehextail (top,in photoabove), You've heard what we have to say workpiece),we found it difficult to hit and replace it with another bit that you aboutthese quick-release chucks. Now, our mark consistently.The Bosch Clic- alreadyhave on hand. log onto the WOODMALL@ website at Changeand Insty-Bits proved the bestin www.woodmall.comand respond to our the test here. The pick of the quick review. Are we right on the money, or cDealing with broken bits. The drill Hands down, we liked Bosch's Clic- way off the mark? Click on the bits that come with most quick connec- Change best. With its lock-open/insert- "Interactive Tool Reviews" button and tors are permanently mounted in their to-close collar, bit retention when join the dialoguewith the manufacturers hextails.So, when a bit breaks-which released,and low runout, we can't think and other WOOD@magazine readers. only seemsto happen when the hard- of a goodreason to buy anythingelse. But ware store is closed-what do you do? whenit cametime to replacea brokenbit, You could go back to the old-fashioned we'd buy a set of Make It Snappy's, Writtenby Dave Gampbell Technicalconsultant: Raleigh Rubenking methodof using your drill's chuck. Or, owing to their collet-stylehextails.al Photographs:Baldwin Photography

A QUICKLOOK AT SPEEDYDRILL CHUCKS IMANCE GS(s)

//6 /-u/s--l 8l E/ , is: E/ i/st t/ el:l.A f,#--, ' tr.-S /#7.**ffi GOMMENTS Connectoravailable only in setswith bits. Collar is betterknurled BLACI(& DECKEB luickConneclH 51rc slt 11510 PULL PULL KB N L N/A $10 GG c (8pc.) thanHanson collar. Clic-Change 13 0urtavorite, with tight tolerances and the easiest one-handed BOSCH H 3la 7la 21lq INS PUSH RB yr. U cc 2300 G 1 $10 (5pc.) bitloading and unloading inthe bunch. Easyone-hand operation. Bit runout high for drill press GRAffSIIIAiI Speed-Lok u 5l.'s 21lq PUSHPULL K B N U I 20 (16pc.) operation,but fine for handdrill work. 20 Simplypush bit to load,but it's awkward to removebits with only DEWALT RapidLoad H 't16 '18 25ls tNs PULL R n N 1 yr. U I G (13 pc.)onehand. Wide, tapered collar provides plenty of grippingarea. Smoothcollar finish may make it moredifficult to operatewith HAilSoil Lock'NLoad H 1la 11la 21lz PULLPULL K B N L I 30 GG U (13pc.) wetor swealyhands.

3la 28 Heavyknurling makes for sure handling of collar.Tight INSTY-BITS 80032 F 2 PULL PULL K D L U 10 GGG (8pc.) tolerancesallow for good drill press operation.

a 0nlyconnector system with collet-style replace TIIAKEIT SiIAPPY 40011 H sla 231rc tNs PULL K B N U o 19 hextailslo G (4 pc.) brokenbits. 15 Comfortableconcave soft-grip collar releases bit on push or pul MAKITA UltraLok H %s 1 2sla PIP P/P R 6 N I yr. U o GG (7pc.) strokefor maximumflexibilitv.

slrc 20 Push/pullcollar operation allows lor personalpreference. sTc1629 H 1 25la PIP PIP R B N L U 8 STANLEYJORETECH GG (15pc.) Banel-shaped,soft-grip collar easy to grasp. IIOTES: Formore information. contacl: 1. (F) Threeflat sides 4. (8) Ballbearing 6. (L) Lifetimewarranty against factory defects Black& Decker DeWalt Makelt Snappy (H) Hex (R) Rod (Poly-Tech t 800/544-6986 800/433-9258 Industries) 2. (lNS)Bit locks with no col 8X"iloou* www.dewall.com 8001334-7472 (pUSH)Move corrar awal, rJflll?lliiro, u I Excerrent [3] Bosch(S-B Power Tools) Hanson(American Tool) Makita (fql_L)tvtovecollartowirddrill body 8. Pricescurrentattimeofarticle'sproduction.877t267-2499 612832-5000 800t462-5482 G eooO (N/A)connector notsord separaterv www.boschtools.com www.americantool.comwww.makitatools.com ;;; , llitLJ,lilTli' - Instv-Bits JoreCorporation (Stanley) (R) Rubber orzTger-rOOO 888/809-5673 www.iorecorporation.com

88 WOOD magazine October 2000 rffidr PfqdqctsKrrffixpmEdF#- TIEP

Fumble-free router-raising? Grank it up! As useful as routertables are, adjusting checkedunder the table for deflection. I the cutting depth can be a royal nui- found only .005" underload. sance.You eitherhave to climb under- Adjustingcutting height with the Rout- neathand fidget with the plungemech- R-Lift is not only more convenientthan anism, or pull the whole works out- under-the-tablefumbling, it's also more plate, router, and all-to change the accurate.Each full turn of the crank rais- depth.The folks at JessEmTools have es or lowersthe cut by .050", with .005" come up with a nifty solution to the increments marked around the crank's age-oldproblem with the RourR-Lift. path. And, as an unexpectedbonus, I Sawhorses sturdy ?s... Insteadof using your router's depth- found I could change router bits from well, a Clydesdale settingmechanism, the Rout-R-Lift has above the table by raising the router all For temporary work space in the shop, its own, operatedby a removablecrank the way up and inserting the collet nothing beats a pair of sturdy sawhorses. on top of the anodizedaluminum table wrenches through the throat opening. But non-collapsiblehorses take up a lot of plate.Set your router to maximum cut- (However, this may not work with every storagearea, and I worry that knockdown ting depth, mount it to the Rout-R- router.) horseswill get knocked down when I'm Lift's carrrage (which rides up and The instructions are a little skimpy still using them. down on a pair of guide rods, shown when explaining how to center your I had no suchworries when using Clyde inset), drop the plate in the table, and router in the carriage (I used a and Dale's sawhorses,because each you're readyto roll. Vz"-diameterpin and a Vz" tluoat insert) heart-shapedleg assemblyis madefrom a I was worried that the caniage and and how to precisely machine your single piece of tempered aluminum tub- guide rods would deflect under the tabletop to acceptthe plate. (A template ing. It can't splay under duresslike most weight of a router, so I loadedup the would be helpful here.) And the plate four-legged sawhorses. And, the user- heaviest router I know of-my 15- has no provisionsfor leveling the plate supplied beam fits into a piece of rigid pound Porter-Cable 7518-and in the tabletop,so I had to shim it with box-tubing welded to the leg assembly. maskingtape. Any 2x4 fits into the box-tubing, but I . -Testedby Bob McFarlin cut slots in both ends of a 2x6 instead. Rout-R-Lift Besidesmaking a strongerhorse, it raised Performance ***** the working height from 32" to 34" and Price $199 gaveme plenty of room to cut through the Value **** beam without fear of hitting hardware. CallJessEm Tools at 800/436-6799, orvisit At 3 poundsper leg assembly,it's easy www.iessem.com. to haul the legs and beamsfor two horses just about anywhere. And all four legs nest nicely together for compact wall- hung storage.Despite their light weight, a pair of Clyde and Dale's sawhorsesare rated to hold 3,000 pounds. -Tested by DaveHendercon

Glydeand Dale's Sawhorces Performance ***** Pdce $90(legs for two horses) **** Tolocate a dealer,call 800/390-5303 orvisit online at ww,clydeanddales.com.

Continued on page 94

WOOD magazine October 2000 products- tr'lat perTorffl @v Continuedfrom page 90 Banish knuckle-bash with Kwik-Grank To me, changingthe cutting height of a quickly raise and lower the cutting table-mountedrouter is about as much height of the bit without the annoyance fun as sticking my hand in the mouth of constantlyregripping my router's of an ill-tempered dog: Both administer small factory knob. pain, and usually result in a bloody However, when I dismountedmy knuckle. But Eagle America's Kwik- router for handhelduse, it was a differ- Crank heighradjustment crank keeps ent story. Without the weight of the my fingers clear of the router body router to hold the depth setting, vibra- while making height changespainless. tion causedthe crank to rotate down. Available for virtually every major So by the end of my plunge cut, I brand of plunge router, this anodized couldn't raisethe bit high enoughto versionsells for $10 lessthan the aluminum tube threads onto the clear the workpiece. For this reason, Kwik-Crank. router's threadedrod, replacing the the Kwik-Crank performs best on a standardheighradjustment mechanism. table-mountedrouter. (For Eagle America also sells a height the DeWalt 621 andPorter-Cable Kwik-Grank 7529,7538, and7539routers, the knob that's identical to the Kwik- Performance ***** Kwik-Crank mounts to the depth-stop Crank, but with a knurled knob instead $30plus shipping ($35 plus shipping rod by meansof specialhardware that of a crank handle.I didn't find it to be forDeWalt 621 and Porter-Cable 7529, 7538,and 7539 routers) comeswith the crank.) any faster than my router's OEM knob, Under table, the Kwik-Crank per- but the additional length of the tube ***** formed as advertised.It allowed me to savedmy knuckles.The knurled-knob CallEagle America toll-free at 888/872-7637,ororder onlineat www.eagle-america.com,

Put the pinch on miter ioints I've tried variousjigs, both shop-made piece, as shown at right, and and commercial,for clamping mitered lock the rod with the knurled joints, with limited success.But, when knob. At this point, it's okay I noticed the Gross Stabil MCX Mitre for the clamp to be a little Clamping Systemat a recent wood- loose. Repeatwith the other working show, I decidedI had to try it clamp and workpiece. out myself. Now use a bar clamp (not The systemconsists of a pair of two- included) on the 45o adapter piece clamps connectedby a steel rod. pads, as shown, to pull the Loosely position a clamp over one joint together.This action workpiece (it'll work with stock up to tightensthe clamps on the workpieces stock less than Vz"thick, including 4" wide) so that the small piece of the while simultaneouslypulling the joint thicker stock with edge treatments that clamp is slightly behind the large together.The MCX Mitre Clamping reducedthe amount of flat clamping Systemalso comeswith easy-to- surfaceto Vz"or less. And, becausethe replace22.5",30o, and 60oadapter MCX Mitre Clamping Systemdoes GrossStabilMGX Mitre Glamping System pads for clamping other than right- nothing to ensure face alignment, the Performance **** anglejoints. manufacturersuggests aligning the $26(bar clamp not included) The systemputs all of its pressureon pieceswith biscuits or dowels, which I **** those 1"-wideclamping jaws, so I found to be valuable advice. Formore information, call Gross Stabil at 800/671-0838. found it more difficult to use with -Testedby Randy Zmmerman

94 WOODmagazine October2000 DeWalt puts its spin on the circ saw Worm-drivecircular saws offer superiortorque and side-to- sidebalance over helical-gear saws, but theytend to be heav- ier-and front-heavyat that-than their side-windingbroth- ers.Leave it to the engineersat DeWaltto comeup with the DW378G: a 7t/+"circ saw with the power of a worm-drive andthe lighterweight of a sidewinder. Like a right-anglegrinder, the shaftof the DW378G's l5 amp.motor turnsperpendicular to the bladearbor by means of spiral-bevelgearing. But, insteadof lying flat at full blade- depthlike a worm-drivesaw, the motor anglesup and back at abouta 45oangle. These moves put the tool's centerof gravityjust behindthe centerof the blade,resulting in an overallbetter-balanced saw. Looking beyondits ratherunorthodox appearance, I found somenice features on the DW378G.The blade-depthindica- tor showsmarkings not for the depthof cut, but for the thick- nessof stockyou're workingwith. In otherwords, to cut t/2" sheetgoods, I set the bladedepth to the "Vr" ply" mark, and the bladebottomed z/+" below the cast-aluminumbase shoe- just enoughto clear the blade gullets.The indicatoralso denotessettings for Vq", 3/8", 5/8" , Ix (zA"),and 2X stock. If you useyour circ sawfor morethan breaking down sheet goods,you'll like thedual blade indicator, which showedme exactlywhere to put the sawto takethe line or leavethe line, in both 90' and 45o bevel-cuts.And I appreciatedthe Are you o woodworker hobbyistor home improver? DW378G'sretractable tool hanserthat let me hansit on anv Hove you experiencedfhe precision and speedof pneumoticnoiling ond stopling?Professionols convenientchunk use pneumaticfostening in opplicotionsfrom smoll bird of 2x stock, such DeWaltDW378G Framing Saw feeder productionto cobinet building ond finish ond as a rafteror joist, Pedormance ***** trim work. Now SENCO,'fhe brond of choiceof withouta bunchof professionols,hos new line tools, $160 e of fosfenersond jury-rigging. occessoriesiust for youl Checkoul AccuSef brond Value ***** -Tested by finish noilers,brsd noilersond sloplers from the Formore information, call 800/433-9528, or visit DaveHenderson pros of SENCO.They're looded with power,greot www.dewalt.com. feotures ond hsve o two yeor worronty - the besf in fhe business!To find the retoil outlet neoresfyou, coll l-888-222-8144, or clickon fhe deoler locator on our newly exponded websife: www.occusef.com nccfi*r

rHEToout v,'t NEEDFoR tHE wo.r youDo Effil" t-888-222-8t44 Visit our newry exponded websife: wwru.e ccusef.com .fr* ?,ffif Utfihrultg "*hdtu Continued on page 96 ryrffin:ffi ,ffi Qulckly becomlng one of Americds ttrost prefurred wooclrrorklng fools

O200OSencoProducts,tnc.SlS5BroodwellRood,Cincinnoti,Ohio4S24l-1699 SotetyE.d.4fhooatywoyawrk! WOOD magazine October 2000 95 q,#lrtrducts

Continuedfrom page 95 Tlvo ways to power a tht€e-tool combo Few things in life equal the frustration dards.However, I found the 10' cord of getting psyched-upto tackle a big gaveme lots of room to move without project, only to find that you forgot to addingany weight. chargeyour cordlessdrill battery. By the The Skil Dual-Sourcel2-volt kit also time the batterygets up to speed,you've comeswith a flashlightand air gun. gottensidetracked. If only you could usei The light boastsa flat base,360o-rotat- that drill while the battery was charging.: ing head,and adjustablebeam. But the One solution:Skil's Dual-Sourrcpo*., i air pump took nine minutesto inflate system.Replace the exhaustedl2-volt i my truck tire to only 22 psi-and I had batterypack with a cordedadapter, plug i to hold the trigger the whole time. Still, the adapterinto an AC power inverter, i it's handyto havearound for toppingoff andyou're back in business.The inverteri bicycle tires,air mattresses,and such.l doublesas a charger,so you can still -Tested by BobMcFarlini i drill while you rechargethe pack. i I liked the flexibility of the power sys- i SkilDual-Source combo kit (12OVXT-ALR tem, especiallyfor DIY and home-shop ! Performance *** use.The drill will drive deck screws,buti Price $99,12-volt kit; $89, 12-volt drill only I wouldn't recommendit for construc- i Value ***** tion work. It's strictly a low-perfor- i CallS-B Power Tools tolffree at 8771754-5999,orvisit mancetool by today's cordlessstan- i onlineat www.skiltools.com.

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96 WOOD magazine October 2000 -l I ffiwruffimffimftffi lllustration:Jim Stevenson I l Red Alder I the Northwestts most abundant hardwood likes having wet feet

Tn the Pacific Northwest.almost tions. it can attain 100'heightswith I Iwherever you [ind wateryou'll dis- diametersto 3'. cover red alder. From southeastern Once consideredby lumbermenas a Alaska into California.this cousin of nuisancetree, red alder today rates as the birch tree -growsbest where its roots the most commercially important hard- get wet. and seldom more than 125 wood in the Pacific Northwest. miles from the ocean. Increasing2O-fold since the 1920s Trout fishermenknow it well because becauseit swiftly appearson burnt or Redalder was oncecut almostexclusively for the tree shadesthe deep, clear pools cutover land, red alder's current stand- firewood,and todaystill servesto givesalmon uniqueflavor with its smoke. where the big fish lay. Alon_ethe ing volume represents60 percent of the streamsand rivers, its roots steady region'shardwood inventory. hard, and heavy wood seasonswell and banks againsterosion and keep the Early loggers only cut red alder for works easily, it rivaled more costly water runnin,eclear. And when salmon firewood, for which it excels.(Its easternhardwoods for modestly priced begin their run from the ocean, they do smoke gives salmon a distinct flavor, furniture,cabinets, and turnings.Now, it amidst standsof red alder because too). But 75 yearsago or so, Northwest much red alder also becomes veneer nowhere does it -qrowmore abundantly furniture manufacturersbegan giving for plywood cores as well as high- and to -greatersize than in bo_egyareas the tree well-deservedattention. grade face. And logs find a ready mar- near salt water. In thosefavored condi- Becauseits evenly textured, moderately ket in Asia and Europe.i

WOODmagazine October2000 I I 1

www.woodmagazine.com -

ContinuedJ'rom page 107

PONTOONS

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108 WOOD magazine October 2000 clockwork "All tlfiCj Af glaSS Cottrittuett.fittnr 7e ny tools 1xr,qc shoulilhe this / / gooil!" R=11/q" The Accu-MiteP is a professional mitergauge that makespertect angleieasily. Shot-pinaction assuresdead-on accuracyfor commonangli:s . ptusa prec$e protractor Wedo notrecommend operatingwithout scalefor thesaw blade guard, as is shownhere. everythingin USPatent #5,0i8,486 betvveen! Ootional' accessories: manualclamy pneumaticclamy 3/ti" x 3/4" miter bar- CO]tlPA|lIY

OUrfree 800Dutch Square Blvd., Suite 200, Columbia, SC 29210 brochure.1-800-382 -2637 / SC 803-798-1600 MOVEMENTSUPPORT www. thej dscompany.com FULL.SIZEPATTERN (2 needed)

110 WOODmagazine September2000 ffFmilshistg '" .i." '-.,.;: , r ' 'r . ,' , . "i_ . ..

Frenchbuird EUfopgtS 0ldest second longest "Hole-$hoot8lt" wffiffi#ffiffi&fuwffi#ffim $urfaGes F*--1fl&08fi[tt Openedlast December,the 189'-long Merle bridge overFrance's MaronneRiver ranksas the secondlongest woodenbridge on the To celebrateits 75th year of ElmGrove, Europeancon- business,the Milwaukee Wisconsin's Electric Tool Corporation tinent.Only an Barney conducteda nationwide holds archedone in Straus searchcontest for the oldest the1923 Austria has a "Hole-Shooter"during Hole- greaterspan. 1999.The electricdrill so Shooterdrill namedwas first producedin Yet both thatearned bridgesfall 1923by the A.H. Peterson Companyof Milwaukee, hima host shortof the world's lengthiestwooden one, Pennsylvania's Theall- the forerunnerof of prizesin woodMerle 328'MacCalls Feny bridge. MilwaukeeElectric Tool. Milwaukee bridge Accordingto the FrenchTechnology Press Office, the Merle From more than 100 Electric spansa bridgereplaced a steelstructure that becameobsolete due to a entrants,the winnerwas Tool's valley100' 12-metric-tonload limit andinsufficient width. For a new BarneyStraus of "Searchfor Grove,Wisconsin. He above bridge,the local governmentwanted one designedin harmony theOldest France's turnedup an operational Hole- with the surroundingcountryside. Sodeteg, the Frencharchi- Hole-Shootermanufactured Maronne Shooter" tecturalfirm entrustedwith the bridge's design,decided on in 1923with the production River. contest. glue-laminated,French-grown for the structural number84. For his effort, material.(The specieswas introducedto Englandand Europe Strauswas awardeda col- from the United States'Pacific Northwestin the 1800s.). lectionof special75th anniversarytools that Although Douglasfir, strippedof all its sapwood,proves includeda SuperSawzall, a naturallydecay resistant, the bridge's designeliminated all MagnumHole-Shooter, a possiblewater traps. The reinforcedconcrete decking of the MilwaukeeTool leather roadwayabove also protects the wood. Due to its strong jacket,a cordlessPower- materialand carefulengineering, the new bridge has a no- Plusdrill, anda Magnum l0" mitersaw. weight-limit,Class I rating.

Helpfor storm-damaged trees Dothe start humming after a severestorm where you live? Maybe, with a littlehelp, those wind-damaged treescould survive rather than comedown. For pointers on saving trees instead offelling them, visit the National Arbor Day Foundation's website (www.arborday,org) toview and downloaditsStorm Recovery-Trees Media Kit. Then pass it alongto your towns tree maintenance department. Nocomputer? Request a kit by writingThe National Arbor Day Foundation, 100Arbor Ave., Nebraska City, NE 68410. Phone 4021474-5655.t1

lllustration:Jim Stevenson Photographs:Bridge, courtesy of the French Technology Press Office; Milwaukee Electric Tool Corp.

112 WOOD magazine October 2000