SPAIN & PORTUGAL LISBON destinations
ith its custard-yellow With TAP recently adding Wtrams, steep hills and a New York to the US cities served suspension bridge resembling by its Lisbon hub, the city is the Golden Gate, Lisbon has becoming even more popular as echoes of San Francisco, an extended stopover for those while Its tiny tapas spots and hopping across the Atlantic. It bars in centuries-old walls are also opens up destinations in reminiscent of Madrid’s old town. South America, including Rio, But just as its famous pastéis served by the airline, which de nata aren’t quite the same flies to Lisbon from Heathrow, as English egg custards, Lisbon Gatwick and Manchester up to has its own unique taste. The nine times each day. Portuguese capital is chilled This spring also saw the LISBON out and charming, with soaring opening of one of the city’s towers, castle ramparts and chicest hotels. AlmaLusa occupies The Portuguese chequered squares, all meandering a prime spot where Lisbon’s royal up from the broad Tagus River. palace once stood, occupying an capital is ideal It’s also refreshingly cheap: a 18th-century building that stored for a laid-back beer is about £1.20, while a bottle weapons and cannons. of decent wine in a restaurant will Most of the city’s highlights city break, finds set you back around £7. can be reached on foot, so Ella Buchan recommend clients pack comfy shoes – and a big appetite.
◗ DAY ONE 10.00: Pick up wheels from bikeiberia on Largo Corpo Santo, right by the Tagus (£8.50 for a four-hour rental). Pedal west along five miles of waterfront bike paths to pale grey Belem Tower (entry £5), built as a fortress to guard Lisbon’s harbour in 1515. En route you’ll pass a pretty marina and the 25 de Abril bridge, a dead ringer for San Francisco’s Golden Gate. bikeiberia.com
11.30: Retrace your tracks to Discoveries Monument for views over Belem (£3.35). Use the underpass to reach Rua de Belem, where Pastéis de Belem has been making pastéis de nata to a secret ancient recipe since 1837. The flaky tarts (85p), are filled with gooey custard. pasteisdebelem.pt
12.30: Pedal two minutes west to Jerónimos Monastery,
1 September 2016 travelweekly.co.uk 77 destinations LISBON SPAIN & PORTUGAL
with its honey-coloured stone cloisters, 15.30: Walk five minutes north to sardines and exquisitely scented soaps. tree-like columns and gargoyles (entry Embaixada (26 Principe Real), a hip avidaportuguesa.com £8.40). Harder to spot, the Berardo shopping emporium housed in a lavish Collection Museum is tucked behind art nouveau building. After browsing 19.00: Enjoy an aperitif at teensy the Belem Cultural Centre, on your ceramics, jewellery and toys, courtyard bar-cum-shop Wine Up (49 Rua do right when heading to the underpass. bar Gin Lovers serves an encyclopedic Alecrim). There are no menus - the This private collection is free to enter selection of spirits in head-sized friendly owners suggest wines, from and boasts works by Andy Warhol and goblets (from £4). £3 a glass, according to your mood. Francis Bacon. ginlovers.org en.museuberardo.pt 20.00: In Praça do Município, the 17.00: Walk five minutes to Sao Pedro AlmaLusa hotel’s restaurant Delfina is 14.30: Return your bike and walk 15 de Alcantara for the Gloria Funicular, the spot for traditional Portuguese fare minutes north up Rua do Alecrim (£4.20 return), in service since 1885. with a tasty twist. Seasonal ingredients to hit Principe Real. Chefs at tiny The trams creak down to Restauradores go into dishes such as bacalhau meia A Cevicheria (129 Rua Dom Pedro V) Square in the city centre. cura – crisp-skinned salted cod with prepare ceviche and seafood dishes puréed chickpeas and quail eggs behind the bar, under the tentacles 17.30: A 10-minute walk south brings (£14.50). of the giant octopus suspended from you to the blue swinging doors of the ceiling. Feast on gazpacho with A Vida Portuguesa on Rua Anchieta. 21.30: Walk 10 minutes back to Rua scallops, roasted octopus and confit Inside is an old perfume warehouse do Alecrim and turn right at Rua do codfish, with mains around £10. selling hand-bound notebooks, Arsenal for a nightcap at Pensão Do
11.30: Pastéis de Belem o amach o C rlind ; A
10.00: The 25 de Abril Bridge 14.30: Seafood lunch se manuel o ; j o sacchetti ni o ; ant a o o de lisb
12.30: Jerónimos Monastery 15.30: Gin Lovers PICTURES: turism
78 travelweekly.co.uk 1 September 2016 destinations LISBON SPAIN & PORTUGAL
SAV E Sintra Boutique Hotel Pretty Sintra, a one-hour train ride from Lisbon, is a great add-on to a city break. This cute and comfy hotel sits on a hillside overlooking the historic old town, and some 13.00: Time Out rooms have views of the 11th-century Mercado da Ribeira Moorish Palacio Nacional de Sintra Museum, just a few steps away. The neutral decor is lifted with tasteful touches of burnished gold, while Amor. This former brothel has and long wooden tables. Grab knowledgable reception staff go out velvet chairs, chandeliers and lunch from top chefs like Marlene of their way to help you plan your risqué frescoes. Vieira, with a seafood tasting stay. Doubles from £100 a night. plate for £10, and sip wild cherry sintraboutiquehotel.com DAY TWO liqueur for £1 at Casa da Ginja. 09.00: Rise early to board timeout.com/market the number 28 tram at Praça SPEND do Martim Moniz, beating the 15.00: Back in the square, the Hotel Lisboa Plaza crowds. Buy a day pass for £5 Lisboa Story Centre offers a A short walk from Avenida de from any metro station. The fascinating, interactive journey Liberdade – the city’s main boulevard 1930s vehicles loop through through the city’s history, with a dotted with kiosks serving giant G&Ts historic Baixa, past the Se focus on the 1755 earthquake. and Korean food – this grand art Cathedral in Alfama, the theatre lisboastorycentre.pt nouveau building oozes old‑world district Chiado and up the steep charm. Many rooms overlook the hill to St George’s Castle. 18.00: After freshening up at University of Lisbon Botanical your hotel, head to Miradouro Gardens, a fantastical mix of old 10.00: Alight at the 11th-century Sao Pedro de Alcantara, on the buildings, blooms and street art. The castle (entry £7), to wander edge of Principe Real. Locals U-shaped terrace, perched above around archaeological ruins from bring wine and nibbles to watch the city’s rooftops, is a lovely place the first known settlements. the sunset drench the city sprawl to chill out with a coffee or bottle of Stroll around gardens thick with below. A map made of tiles serves local vino. Doubles from £110 a night. cork oak, umbrella pine and olive as a guide to the view, while the lisbonplazahotel.com trees, and the remains of the park is dotted with sculptures of medieval royal residence. Greco-Roman heroes and gods. castelodesaojorge.pt SPLURGE 19.30: Continue five minutes AlmaLusa 12.00: Ride the tram to Praça northwest to Pizzeria Zero Zero Located in the city’s former arsenal do Comércio, built after the (32 Rua da Escola Politecnica), in historic Praça do Município, this devastating earthquake of 1755. named after the strong flour has fast become the hottest hotel Surrounded by grand ochre used in the dough. Pizzas from in town since opening this March. facades, an equestrian sculpture primavera to tuna (from £8), are The 28 rooms are a masterclass in of King José I gazes towards baked in a central stone oven. understated luxury, with peaceful the river. Board the lift to the pizzeriazerozero.pt muted brown and grey tones and wide terrace of neoclassical Rua 100% percale cotton sheets. Original Augusta Arch (£2.50), symbolising 22.00: Head southeast and turn details include mosaic floor tiles the resilient spirit of the city. left on to Calçada da Patriarcal, that survived the 1755 earthquake then take another left on to Rua and mirrors belonging to a barber 13.00: A 10-minute stroll west da Alegria to reach Hot Club of shop that once operated here. along Avenida Ribeira das Naus Portugal (48 Praça de Alegria). Doubles from £125 a night. takes you to Time Out Mercado This tiny cellar bar is one of almalusahotels.com/baixachiado da Ribeira. This 13th-century fish Europe’s oldest jazz clubs. Take market is now filled with bars, a breather in the back garden. souvenir shops, food counters hcp.pt
80 travelweekly.co.uk 1 September 2016